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IVo. 60 


U. S. HYDROGRAPHIC OPPICE, BUREAU OP NAVIGATION, 


COASTS AND PORTS 

OF THE 

BAY OF BISCAY. 

COMPILED AT THE 


UNITED STATES HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE 


lIElTEJfASTS 6E0RGE M. TOTTEN AND SEATON SCHROEDEB, 

UNITED STATES NAVT. 


WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 
187G. 













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ADVERTISEMENT. 


The North Coast of Spain, coutaining a detail description of the 
coast from Cape Ortegal to the Bidasoa Eiver, has been compiled from 
the JDerrotero de la Costa Septentrional de Espatia, by Don Pedro Eiuda- 
vets y Turdury; the Sailing Directions^ West . Coasts of France^ Spain^ 
and Portugal^ by Staff Commander James Penn, E. N., together with the 
most recent charts and notices published. Extracts have been taken 
from the latest British consular reports; Urquhart’s Dues and Charges on 
Shipping in Foreign Ports; the American Encyclopaedia; the Encyclopaedia 
Britannica ; the British Commercial Dictionary ; the Imperial Gazetteer^ 
and such other works of travel as were available. 

The West Coast of France, containing a detail description of the 
coast from the-Bidasoa river to Melgorne point, has been compiled from 
the Pilote des Cotes Quest de la France^ by A. Bouquet de la Grye; the 
Pilote de laManche, Cotes Word de France^ by Captain Thomassin, of the 
French Navy; the Derrotero de la Costa Occidental de Francia^ &c., by 
DonGonzalodeMurga; the Sailing Directions. West Coasts of France., Spain, 
and Portugal, by Staff Commander James Penn, E. N., together with the 
most recent charts and notices published. Extracts have been taken 
from the latest United States and British consular reports j the Reper¬ 
toire de Legislation, &c., by D. Dalloz, Sr.; the Atterrage de Brest, by 
Captain H. de Eoujoux, of the French navy; Urquhart’s Dues and Charges 
on Shipping in Foreign Ports; the American Encyclopadia, the Encyclopce- 
dia Britannica, and such other works as were available. 


U. S. Hydrographic Office, 

Washington, D. C., Fehruary 10, 187C. 


E. H. W. 



NOTE. 


The courses, bearings, and trend of the land are true unless otherwise 
mentioned. 

The direction of the winds, as giv^en, is the point from which they 
blow; and of the currents, the point toward which they set. 

Distances are given in geographical miles and cable-lengths; the lat¬ 
ter are assumed to be 100 fathoms. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER I. 

FROM CAPE ORTEGAL TO RIVADEO INLET. 

Page. 

Iiitrodnctiou ; bay of Biscay; winds; currents; soundings; route. 3-7 

Cape Ortegal; islets and rocks; coast; Carino inlet; port Santa Marta; tides; 
Espasante bay and village; Bandeja point; Piedras Meas rocks; caution; 

winds; currents . 7-11 

Estaca point; Los Siguelos; light; capeVares; Barquero inlet; Vares bay; 
anchorages; Sobrepuesta and Santo points; port Barquero; Sor river; mount 
Furado; Puerto de Vale; Cueva Baja point; Conejera island, channel, light; 
advantages; water; tides; directions; land and sea breezes; pilots; coast.. 11-18 
Socastro point; portVivero; Gabeira islet; Caballo point; San Juan bay; Gral- 
lal beach; Vi vero; Cillero; bar ; mount Faro ; resources; tides; directions; 

Co bank ; Lage bank ; marks. 18-22 

Sainas point; Netos islets; Anzaron island; cape MorJs; San Cipriano bay; 
Paranos beach; Lieiro beach; San Cipriano beach; Faralloues; San Clem¬ 
ente reefs; San Cipriano port and river; water; tides; light; directions; 

pilots. 22-28 

Leixon del Nordeste; Portelo; Somonte and Burela points ; gulf of Foz ; winds ; 
fogs; currents; Chacineiras islets; Piedra de Burela; coast; Foz inlet; 
tides; coast. 28-32 

CHAPTER 11. 

FROM RIVADEO INLET TO CAPE PENAS. 

Paucha islet; light; Rivadeo inlet; town; Castropol; Carabela bank; Arnao 
bay; Cruz point; Arredo bank; Panchorro bank; soundings; tides; 

resources; pilots; directions. 32-38 

Province of Oviedo; Castro bank; Santa-Gadia point; cape San Sebastian; 

Tapia islet; Orrio de Tapia ; light; Porcia bay ; cape Blanco ; port Viaveles ; 
tides; resources; coast; cape San Agustiu; Navia inlet; pilots; marks; 

coast. 38-43 

Port Vega; Romanellas rocks; coast; port Luarca; light; tides; dangers; 
directions; coast; cape Busto; light; Serron bank ; Peton bank ; coast; 
capeBidio; San Pedro and Oteiro bays; Artedo bay ; port Cudillero; light; 

coast.43-49 

Pravia river; bar; port San Esteban; Forno anchorage; resources; tides; 

directions; Cogollopoint; Deva islet; coast. 49-52 

Avil6s inlet; bar; tides; light; town; resources; directions; dangers; cur¬ 
rents; pilots; coast; cape Penas; light; Erbosa isle ; Merendalvarez reefs; 
Somosllungo bank; winds; currents; directions. 52-59 

CHAPTER III. 

FROM CAFE rEN.iS TO CAPE MAYOR. 

Llumeresbay; coast; Luanco bay; port; bar; directions; tides; coast; Can- 

das port and bay; coast; cape Torres. 60-64 

BayofGijon; dangers; town; basin; resources; lights; bar; outside anchor¬ 
ages; pilots; tides; directions; coast; Tazones bay ; light; Mesnada shoal. 64-70 














VI 


TABLE OF CONTENTS, 


Page. 

Villayiciosa inlet; town; tides; marks; Rodiles point; coast; Lastres bay and 

town; Colunga River ; mount Carraudi; coast ...1.. 70-73 

Rivadesella inlet; town; light; tides; pilots; directions; Serropio bank; Palo 

Verde islet; Nueva river; cape Mar; coast; San Antolin beach...73-77 

Cape Prieto; Vaca rock; Niembro inlet and town ; tides; Borizo island; Poo 
bay; Jarri point; Llanes; tides; resources; light; aspect; SanLa Clara 
and Ballota points ; coast. 77-82^ 


The Tinas; Tina Mayor; tides; light; marks; currents; coast; Tina Menor; 
coast; harbor and town of San Vicente de la Barquera; Meron beach; di¬ 
rections ; light; pilots; tides; marks; Pena del Zapato; cape Oyhambre; 

La Molar; Rdbia bay and beach ; coast; port Comillas; lights; marks; 
coast; Luana and Torriente banks; San Vicente de Luaua; coast; Dichoso 

point; Canto bank. 82-94 

Inlet of San Martin de la Arena; bar; Saja and Besaya rivers; Cantos anchor¬ 
age; light; tides; pilots; signals; directions; Cuerno point; Suances 
islands; coast; bay of San Juan del Canal; inlet of San Pedro del Mar; 

Cabezo de San Pedro del Mar ; cape Mayor.94-100 

CHAPTER IV. 

FROM CAPE MAYOR TO SANTURRARAX POINT. 

Cape Mayor; cape Menor; Santander inlet; Santander; Peua Castillo ; Maliano 
point; south coast; Quebrantas bank; Cavada peak; mount Cabarga; 
lights; signal-station; tides; pilots; quarantine; marks; directions; Lan- 

gre point; coast.101-109 

Nojabay; Berriasands; Doblebank; Santofiamountain; lights; Santouainlet; 
Limpias; Santona; port; mount Ano; Puntal del Pasage point; Pitorro 
bank ; bar ; tides ; pilots ; directions ; Fraile anchorage ; marks ; Laredo ; 

mount Candina ; Orinon point; inlet; mount Ceredo; coast.109-119 

Castro Urdiales bay ; port; town; light; tides; directions; Castro Verde bank; 

point Mioho; Bilbao bay ; Sabiote river.119-122 

Province of Biscay ; winds ; sea ; squalls ; barometer; currents; directions ; 
Muzquiz point; Somorrostro bay; mount Lucero; Bilbao bay ; bar ; Ner- 
vion river ; Portugalete ; river; Olaviaga; Bilbao ; tides ; lights ; pilots ; 

directions; coast; Plencia inlet; Gorliz sands; cape Villauo ; coast.122-138 

Cape Machichaco ; light; Machichaco bay ; coast; Bermeo; tides ; Laisuas 
rocks; coast; Muudaca river; town; tides; Isaro islet; LasLobas; coast; 

cape Ogofio ; coast.138-144 

Oguella bay ; mount Otoyo ; Lequeitio bay ; light; tides; San Nicolas island ; 

directions; Sausaten bay; Oudarroa bay ; b^ar ; tides; directions.144-14T 

CHAPTER V. 

FROM SANTURRARAN POINT TO THE BIDASOA RIVER. 

Province ofGuipuzcoa; currents; winds; Santurrarau point; Cardal point; 
port Motrico; tides; Deva inlet; town; pilots; tides; Santa Catalina 

point; coast; Zumayainlet; town; pilots; tides; coast.148-153 

Guetaria bay; anchorage; port; town; light; tides: directions; Alzacoarria 
point; coast; Zarauz bay ; town ; Malla-arria point; Orio inlet; river; 

town; pilots; tides; coast.153-1 57 

Mount Hernio ; mount Urgull; Santx Clara island ; La Bancha; San Sebastian 
bay; port; town; lights; pilots; tides and currents; pilots; directions; 

coast.•.157-164 

I’ort Pasages; town; East and West banks; light; pilots; tides; directions; 
mount Jaitzquivel; cape La Higuera; light; Amuck island; Higuera 
anchorage ; Fuenterrabia bay ; inlet; bar ; Irun ; Fuenterrabia ; Bidasoa 
river ; tides ; marks.164-173. 

















TABLE OF CONTENTS. 


VII 


CHAPTER VI. 

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS ON FRANCE. 


Page. 

Tides; tidal currents; tide-signals; weather-signals; pilots; pilot-signals; 
distress-signals ; signal and telegraph stations ; buoys and beacons ; night 
navigation; ports of refuge.177-185 

CHAPTER VII. 

FROM THE BIDASOA RIVER TO THE GIRONDE RIVER. 

Sainte-Anne point; plateau of Saint-Jean de Luz ; passes; bay of Saint-Jean de 
Luz ; Nivelle river, lights; Salnte-Barbe point, lights; Socoa, light, signals ; 

Artha rock ; directions, anchorage, tides, town, trade.186-194 

Bidart; Biarritz, anchorages, light; Adonr river, bar, lights, life-saving station, 
tides, cnrrents; general directions ; outer anchorage ; signals; tugs; river, 

anchorages ; Bayonne, docks, trade, supplies, port-charges..194-203 

Coast to Arcachon ; land and sea breezes; soundings ; Fosse de Cap Breton ; an¬ 
chorage,; Cap Breton channel, light, life-boat, streams; Huchette beacon; 

Contis light; Biscarosse beacon; Bassin d’Arcachon, commerce, entrance, 

bar, tides, currents, light; landfall, directions, caution.203-209 

Coast to the Gironde; Aucbise river; soundings; La Grigne beacon; Hourtin 
lights, table of angles between lights; Vendays, Soulac, and Saint-Nicolas 
beacons.209-211 


CHAPTER VIH. 

FROM THE GIRONDE RIVER TO LES BARGES D’OLONNE. 

Gironde river; Dordogne river; Garonne river; La Coubre point, light; Grave 
point, lights; Grand Banc light-ship; Cordouan light; river-lights; tides; 
bore; currents; pilots; tugs; approaching the coast, soundings, rules for 

determining distance from shore, caution.211-219 

Entrances to the Gironde; Passe du Nord, directions, depths, beating in; La 
Mauvaise bank; Demi Banc; Barre-a-l’Anglais; Moutrevel bank; Passe 
des Charentais, directions, beating in; Passe du Sud; RoufiSat bank; La 
Ndgade point; Olives and Saint-Nicolas banks ; entering at night; caution; 

beating in ; passage inside the Platiu de Grave.219-227 

Anchorages inside Grand Banc, olf Montrevel bank, Royan, Verdou, Chambrette; 
navigation to Pauillac ; wreck; quarantine-ground ; towns of Roj^an, Pauil- 
lac, Blaye, Libourne; Bordeaux, city, hospital, docks, industries, popula¬ 
tion, commerce, exports, imports, supplies, port-regulations, expenses.227-235 

Coast of Arvert; Pertuis de Maumusson; Seudre river light; directions; cau¬ 
tion ; shores of the pertuis ; anchorage of Bry; Seudre river ; inundations ; 
tides; currents; Oleron island, population, dangers; La Perroche; La Co- 

tini^re ; plateaux of Chassiron and Chardonui^re; caution.235-239 

Chassiron point, light; Perrotine lights ; Chateau lights; lights at the mouth of 
the Charente river; Aix island light; coast to La Rochelle; La Rochelle 
lights; Rd island, dangers, population; Chauveau point light; Baleine 
light; Haut Banc du Nord light; Saint-Martin and La Flotte lights ; plat¬ 
eau of Rochebonne, soundings, currents, tides, pilots, light-ship, fog-trunf^iet, 

caution.239-244 

General directions for approaching the pertuis, soundings, rules for finding dis¬ 
tance from coast; approaching the Pertuis d’Autioche ; foggy weather, di¬ 
rections; caution; currents in the offing ; Pertuis d’Autioche, soundings, 
directions, currents, beating in; Le Clone bank; Rade des Basques; Rade 
de 1’ He d’Aix; La Longe le Boyard; Rade des Saumouars; Rade des 

Trousses, mooring-buoys, compass-station.*.244-252 

Charente river, tides, currents, high and low water, bar, directions, caution; 
Rochefort harbor, city, industries, population, commerce, expenses; naviga¬ 
tion to Tonnay-Charente ; Tounay-Chareute anchorage, commerce.252-258 














VIII 


TAIILE OF CONTENTS. 


Page. 

Martrais bay; Cbaiiveau point, rocks ; to reach Pallice anchorage; approach¬ 
ing La Rochelle ; outer anchorage, Pointe des Minimes ; Plateau du Lavar- 
din; Roche du Sud ; La Rochelle roads, port, tides, directions, city, indus¬ 
tries, docks, gridiron, population, commerce, exports, imports, expenses.-.258-263 
Coast northward of La Rochelle; Aiguillon light; Lay river; Grouin du Cou 
point,light; Perray river; Sables d’Olonue lights; life-saving station; 

Barges d’Olonne, light; Basse Vermenou ; Pertuis Breton, general directions, 
soundings, currents in the offing; entering; landmarks; tides and currents 
inside; Conche des Baleines; Fief d’Ars ; Saint-Martin anchorages, tide- 
gauges, wet-dock ; Preau anchorage ; La Flotte anchorage ; Saint-Laurent 
point; Pen Breton; Pallice anchorage; Aiguillon bay; Sables d’Olonne 
port and roadstead ; shoals; approaching from seaward ; passes between 
shoals; tides; wet-dock, town, population, industries.263-280 

CHAPTER IX. 

FKOM LES BAliGES d’OLOXNE TO QUIBERON PENINSULA. 

He d’Yeu; tides and currents; Petite Fonle light; Port-Breton lights, life-boat; 
Corbeau point light; approaching the island, soundings; rocks off N\V. point 
of island ; Basse San zey ; Port-Breton; La Sablaire anchorage and bank; 

La Conche anchorage; Corbeau point; Anse des Vieilles; Anse du Vieux 

Chateau; Pont d’Yeu, middle channel, southern channel.281-288 

Coast to Saint-Gilles ; rocks; beaching a vessel; Saint-Gilles, light, anchorage ; 
directions; caution; river; tides; coast northward, land-marks, shoals; 
Fromautine inlet, tides, landmarks ; directions, caution ; Noirmoutier island, 
productions, population, west coast; I’Herbaudiere point; Chausse6 des 
Bceufs; directions and currents; Pilier island, light; rocks and shoals; 
eastern coast of Noirmoutier island; La Chaise light; town of Noirmoutier.288-297 
Bourgneuf bay ; Pornic, town, lights; Saint-Gildas point; La Couronnde shoal ; 
Pierre-Moine; currents in the bay ; tides; anchorages; directions for enter¬ 
ing ; caution ; Le Fain anchorage; Bois de la Chaise anchorage; Loire river; 
mouth; dangers; Mindin point; river-lights; Commerce and Aiguillon 
lights ; Le Pouliguen light; La Bauche bank, light; Lambarde bank ; Croisic 
point, lights; Trehic light; Le Four bank, light; bar of the Loire, tides, 

currents.297-312 

General directions for approaching the coast; soundings; jiilots; directions for 
the Grand Chenal; Cheual du Nord ; Leven islet anchorage; navigation to 
Saint-Nazaire; anchorage in Bonne Anse; Saint-Nazaire roads, wet-dock, 
dock-signals, town, population, imports, exports, expenses; Paimbceuf, 
anchorages; gridiron; Nantes, town, population, industries, commerce, 

exports, imports, pilot-regulations, and charges.312-328 

Le Croisic, roads, port, town; coast to the Vilaine; dangers; Penlan point, 
light; Vilaine river ; Kervoyal and Penvins points; port Penerf, roadstead, 
directions, tides, currents; Anse de Succiuio; Pointe du Grand Mont; 
Quiberonbay ; Navalo light; Crac’h light; Quiberon peninsula; Port-Hali- 
guen light; life-saving station; La Teignouse rock, light, fog-bell; shoals; 
Chansseedu B^niguet; Houatisland; Chausseede I’lle aux Chevaux; Haedik 

island, light; plateau de la Recherche; Plateau de I’Artimon.328-.337 

Belle-Ile; Pointe des Poulains, light, rocks; semaphore ; port Goulfar; Belle-Ile 
light; port Kerel; Saint-Marc anchorage; Pouldou anchorage; Pointe de 
I’Echelle; Arzic; Kerdonis point; anchorage, reservoir; Le Palais, roads, 
harbor, light; Taillefer point; Sauzon, light; Taillefer and Birvideaux 

banks, tidal currents.337-343 

Landfall; soundings; making Le Palais roads; to clear Taillefer banks ; Belle- 
Ile channel; passage west of Le Four; making the mouth of the Vilaine; 
currents in Le Four passage; tides and currents in the Vilaine; direct 
channel; southern channel; anchorages; Rennes; Redon; entering Qui¬ 
beronbay; La Teignouse passages; Beniguet passage; Houat island anchor¬ 
age ; passes north of He aux Chevaux; Drevantec pass; pass of Les Soeurs; 
Haedik roads; port de la Chevre; working-room in Quiberon bay; Le Mor- 
bihan; Vannes; Auray ; tides; currents; landmarks; directions; anchor¬ 
age; caution; Navalo anchorage; Saint-Philibert and Crac’h rivers ; Port- 
Haliguen.343-359 









TABLE OF CONTENTS. 


IX 


CHAPTER X. 


FROM QUIBERON PENINSULA TO PENMARC’lI POINT. 


Page. 

West coast of Quiberon peninsula; port Maria; life-boat; Portz-Guen ; Penthi- 
^vre fort; Teviec island; anchorage; Ardeveuno point; Pierres Noires; 

Etel river, life-boat, light, anchorage; currents otf the coast; He de Groix ; 

Pointe des Chats, shoals ; La Croix point, light, life-boat; Grogiion and Pen- 
Men points ; He de Groix light; anchorage ; currents near He de Groix. ..360-3G5 
Port Louis bay, town, lights; Lorieut light; I’eyri^re light; signal-tower; He 
Saint-Michel; shoals; Talut point; rocks; tides and currents in Lorieut bay; 
approaching He de Groix; soundings; caution; landfall; entering Port 
Louis bay ; Port Louis roads ; to reach Lorieut anchorage ; anchorage, wet- 
dock, port militaire ; town of Lorient, lazaretto, population, industries, com¬ 
merce ; Hennebont, trade; life-saving station.365-377 

Coast to the northwestward; currents; shoals; Pouldu bay; Quimperld river; 
shoals; Douelan port, lights, anchorage; BGlon and Aven rivers, light; 
Pointe de Trdvignou, rocks; Basse Jaune; Pointe de la Jument, rocks; 
Cabellou point; Kersosbay; Lanriec light; La Croix light; Beuzec light; 

tides; La Forest bay, streams, currents.377-383 

Les GlGnaus, anchorages; Penfret island light; La Jument; tides and currents; 
channel north of Les Gldnans; He aux Moutons; channel south of He aux 
Moutons ; caution ; channel north of He aux Moutons; passage south of Men 
Diou ; entering Concarneau harbor ; anchorage ; caution ; dangers; Con- 
carneau roads, town, trade, population; entering La Forest bay; anchorage; 
Mousterlin ])oint; Benodet bay, tides and currents; landmarks; Odet lights; 
Loctudy light; eastern passage to Benodet bay, anchorage; middle cha-n- 
nel; passage east of IMalvic ; Cosquer passage; entering at night; shoals ; 
tides at the mouth of Quimper river; anchorage; Quimper river, bar; rocks ; 
towns of Benodet and Quimper; anchorages; Pontl’AbbG river; Loctudy..383-400 
Coast to the south westward; rocks; Escouil port; Guilviuec port, lights; 

shoals; channels; western passage; lee shore; life-boat; Penmarc’h rocks.400-40 3 

CHAPTER XI. 

FROM PENMARChl POINT TO BREST. 

Penmarc’h point, shoals, light; approaching; soundings; landfall; Taliferne 
point; beaching a ship at Poulbrien, Wibbiue, and Portz-Carn ; La Torche 
point; Audierne; life-saving'station; anchorage; Pointe de I’Ervilly ; Audi- 
erne, port, light; Raoulic point, light; life-boat; bar; tides; shoals; road¬ 
stead; eastern channel; channel west of La Gamelle ; Grand Chenal; Chenal 

de la Vierge; signal-station, population, commerce.404-412 

Coast to the Bee du Raz ; shoals ; Bee du Raz, life-boat, rocks, lights ; Pointe du 
Van ; Bale des TrdpassGs ; Chaussde de Sein ; He de Seiu, light, life-boat; 

Basse Occidentale; Basse Froide; passage; Pout de Sein; HGlor^tepassage; 
Trousyard passage ; caution ; Pont des Chats ; tides; Tevennec islet, light, 

shoals.412-418 

To distinguish He de Sein from Ouessant; soundings; approaching the ChaussGe 
de Sein from the southward ; to avoid the Chaussde, rule and table ; coming 
from the northward, rule and table; coming from the westward, rule and 
tables; caution; Raz de Seiu; currents; directions; anchorages, pilots.. .418-427 
Douarnenez bay; south shore, shoals; eastern shore; northern shore; Basse 
Vieille; dangers; anchorages; Douarnenez; Tristan island, light, life¬ 
boat; Rosmeur point jetty light; dangers; tides; directions; the Iroise: 
Dinant and Penhir bays; Tas de Pois; Toulingnet point, light, life-boat; 
dangers in the Iroise, currents, winds; passes among the rocks; Corbeau, 

Petit L6ac’h, Toulingnet, Le Pdlen passes; Camaret bay, town, port, life¬ 
saving station ; directions; tides; Capucins point, light.427-439 

Goulet de Brest; Petit Minou and Portzic lights; dangers ; currents ; Grand 
. Minou point; Bertheaume bay ; CrGac’hmeur point; Saiut-Matthieu point, 

N C—II 







X 


TABLE OF CONTENTS. 


Pago, 

light, signals ; shoals; Brest roads; basin lights, fog-bell; Saint-Marc and 
Corbeau banks; Plougastel; western shore of roads; Anse du Fret; dis¬ 
tance-buoys ; dangers in the roadstead ; Saint-Pierre bank ; tides, currents,^ 

guard-boat, mooring-buoys, compass-station, quarantine-ground, pilots-439-451 

Approaching Brest; navigating in the Iroise ; soundings; the Goulet; the roads; 
at night; caution; beating in; working-room in the roads; leaving the 
roads; caution; Penfeld river, bar, signals; Brest, town, population, com¬ 
merce, imports, exports, coasting-trade, expenses, industries, repairs and as¬ 
sistance, supplies, boat-landing; Landerneau river, town, expenses; bar,dan¬ 
gers, anchorages, tides, pilots, directions; Rade de Chateaulin, working- 
room ; Pen-a-land anchorages; Tindufif bay; Land6vennec channel; Le 
Faou ; Chdteaulin river, towns.451-462 

CHAPTER XII. 

FROM SAINT-MATTHIEU POINT TO MELGORNE POINT. 

Coast; Basse du Chenal; Kermorvan point; rocks ; Le Conqnet port, light, life¬ 
saving station; Anse des BlancsSablons; Corsen point; Laberildut; rocks; 

M61on island, town ; shoals; Portzpoder bay; Melgorne point; Le Four 
rock, light, fog-trumpet; He d’lock, shoals ; tidal currents, Les Platresses.463-467 
Basse Orientate du Courleau; Les Bossemen; Basse Royale; Chauss6e des 
Pierres Noires; Pierres Noires light; Les Chemin6es, Le Ranvel; Basse 
Large; K^rouroc ; Placen-ar-B^niguet; La Si^ge rocks, passage ; Petit Tau- 
reau ; Beniguet island, currents; Les Belveignou ; new channel into Le Four; 
directions; Lytiry, Qu^m^nes’and Leddues de Qu^m^nes islands; Morgol; Le 
Cromic ; passage between Qu^m^nhs and Tri41en islands, directions ; V^ieille 
Noire; Plateau de la Helle ; Tri^len island ; LesSerroux; Moline island, life¬ 
boat; Balance and Bannec islands; Pierres Vertes; pilots.467-475 

Ouessant island ; Creac’h light, life-boat, fog-trumpet; Leurvas and Corn-Pern 
rocks; Lampaul bay; guard-boat; La Jument; Pen-ar-Roc’h anchorage; 
Portz-Guen ; Port de Darland; Le Stilf, light, bay; Beninou bay; LeCrom; 
Chauss^e de Keller; Raz du Floras; Haut-Fond d’Ouessant; Fromveur 

passage.475-480 

Tides, currents near Ouessant and in the Fromveur ; landfall; thick weather ; 
Haut-Fond de la Chapelle, rules for finding ; to make Ouessant from the west¬ 
ward, rule, caution ; coming from the northward; appearance of the island; 
course to Brest; pilots ; Chenal du Four, currents, directions, caution, beat¬ 
ing through, anchorages; Chenal de la Helle.480-488 

APPENDIX. 

SPAIN. 

Quarantine; tonnage dues; rule for ascertaining Spanish tonnage; money ; 
weights; measures; table for the reduction of English avoirdupois to kilo¬ 
grams .488-498 


FRANCE. 

Tonnage-dues; customs-dues and regulations; harbor regulations; measures 
against fire, &c.; quays ; locks, bridges; port-officers; pilot-regulations; 
dock-charges; gauging French ships; extracts from convention concluded 


February, 1853 ; quarantine laws; measures, weights, and coins.498-517 

Index .519-529 









NORTH COAST OF SPAIN. 


LIEUT. GEORUE M. TOTTEN, 

UNITED STATES NAVY. 


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CHAPTER I. 

FROM CAPE ORTEGAL TO RIVADEO INLET. 

Variation in 1876: Cape Ortegal, 21 ^ 10' westerly; Vi vero, 21° 05' westerly. 

The portion of coast described in this work is that com¬ 
prised between cape Ortegal on the W. and the Bidasoa 
river on the E., or all that portion of the coast of Spain 
washed by the waters of the bay of Biscay. The Spanish 
coast is abrupt, rocky, and precipitous, and eastward of 
cape Ortegal no good harbors are found, unless those of 
Barquero and Vi vero. 

The bay of Biscay is about 300 miles across from cape 
Ortegal to Oshant, bearing about NNE. and SSW. from 
one another, and is 240 miles deep to the SE. The central 
part of the bay is very deep. The 100 fathom line of sound¬ 
ings passes about 65 miles SSW. of Ushaiit, and skirts the 
W. coast of France at nearly the same distance, approacli- 
ing to within 35 miles, however, at the SE. angle of the 
bay. Beyond the 100-fathom line the depth augments rap¬ 
idly, and about midway between cape Ortegal and Ushant 
there are found more than 2,600 fathoms. At 40 miles from 
the land, all along the N. coast of Spain, there is no bottom 
found at less than 2,000 fathoms, and at 15 miles the depths 
range from 150 to 200 fathoms, rock and coral, but fre¬ 
quently no bottom is found at this depth even nearer the 
coast. 

Northerly winds prevail and are strongest on the parallel 
of the Pertuis; thence they decrease in frequency and 
force in approaching the Pyrenees, and the same effect ob¬ 
tains in nearing the British channel. 

The greatest number of days of northeasterly winds is 
about on the parallel of the island of Groix, and on the 
island itself these winds are much more frequent than those 
from the SE. The days of NE. wind decrease as the Py¬ 
renees are approached. The E. winds blow equally through¬ 
out. 


Bay of Biscay. 


Winds. 


4 


TTIXDS. 


The number of days of SE. wind is greatest at Brest and 
least at the island of Aix; and the number of days of S. 
wind increases as the Spanish coast is approached; at Bi¬ 
arritz it is three times as great as at Brest. 

The number of days of SW. wind is about the same 
throughout. (60 days a year,) with a slight increase at Brest, 
and this wind always brings bad weather. NW. winds are 
most frequent at Brest and least so at Biarritz. 

The localities most affected by the different winds depend 
somewhat on the contour of the coast; thus the heaviest 
SW. gales are experienced between Brest and the month of 
the Loire; the heaviest westerly gales abreast Pertuis and 
the Gironde district; and the heaviest WNW. gales in the 
lower portion of the bay. 

The storms of the bay of Biscay almost always originate 
about the border of the Gulf stream, or in the vicinity of 
the Azores, and develop characteristics similar to those of 
the cyclones of the Antilles, having a progressive motion 
toward the E. or SE., and they are preceded by a falling 
barometer and rising thermometer. They are usually felt 
at the southern point of Ireland or on the coast of Portugal 
l)efore they enter the bay. The meteorological reports 
posted in the offices of the various ports give the probabili¬ 
ties of the weather for the following 48 hours for Valencia, 
Coruna, and Brest, and though these are sometimes incor¬ 
rect for light winds, they may be thoroughly relied upon in 
regard to storms. The meteorological records show that, 
in a majority of cases, the center of a storm passes outside 
and y. of the bay of Biscay. 

The rendarales commence with wind from the S., hauling 
to SW. and then W., and constantly increasing in force, 
with frequent and violent squalls. It then hauls to XW. 
and to the eastward of X., and fair weather recommences. 
If the wind backs to the westward another gale succeeds. 

In the vicinity of Brest, SE. gales are often violent and 
lasting, and are accompanied by dense fogs, hiding the 
land, and strong XW. currents, so that a vessel lying-to is 
often drifted 50 miles to leeward in 24 hours. 

Along the Spanish coast, in winter, northerly winds often 
bring fog. 

The prevalence of W., W., and SW. winds causes a 


Currents. 


CURRENTS—SOUNDINGS. 


O 


heavy swell and considerable cnrrent, to which doe consid¬ 
eration should be given. The waters of the gulf have a 
vast gyratory movement, irregular in outline, and variable 
in velocity on account of the considerable effect of different 
winds. The SE. current, setting on to the XW. point of the 
Iberian ]>eninsnla, is divided there into two branches, one 
setting S. along the Portuguese coast and then turning to 
the eastward about cape Saint Vincent; the other setting 
E. along the coast of Spain, and N. along the W. coast 
of France, where it is 15 or 20 miles across, and is felt at 
30 or 40 miles off shore; it becomes wider as it proceeds 
northward, and is probably joined at times by the streams 
from the rivers of France. On the parallel of about 48^ 20^ N. 
it is about 80 miles across, and the set, following the coast¬ 
line, is nearly WNW., passing 15 or 20 miles from Ushant 
and across the entrance to the English channel. The com¬ 
motion of the waters at the time of the liood-tide in the 
channel, all along the line of separation, has undoubtedly 
given rise to most, if not to all, the reports, formerly quite 
frequent, of rocks and broken water in this vicinity. It is 
hardly necessary to add that all search for such dangers 
has been unavailing. 

On the parallel of Ushant the whole extent of the edge of Soundings, 
soundings may be discovered in fine weather from the nume¬ 
rous ripplings in its vicinity, and in boisterous weather the 
transition from deep water to comparatively shoal is ren¬ 
dered apparent by the sudden alterations in the color of 
the water, which changes from blue to various shades of 
green. As Ushant is approached, the depths slightly de¬ 
crease, though they will be found to vary a few fathoms, 
more or less; at the distance of 48 miles from the island, 
and on its parallel, there are 72. 71, and 70 fathoms, with 
coarse, pale-yellow ground, resembling semi-indurated marl, 
with a mealy surfiice, interspersed with pieces of broken 
shells, and a substance like chaff. At 27 miles from the 
island there are from 66 to 63 fathoms, with the same bot¬ 
tom, and 65 fathoms are found within 9 miles of the rocks. 

When appoaching Ushant in thick weather a vessel should 
not come within 70 fiithoms water, and should keep the 
lead going. 


G 


SOUNDINGS—ROUTE. 


Eoute. 


On the parallel of the Chauss^e de Sein, commonly called 
the Saints, the transition from deep to comparatively shoal 
water is very sudden j in lat. 48^ 02' N., and long. 8° 04' W., 
there are 396 fathoms water over dark grayish-blue mud j at 
only 8 miles westward of this position there are 529 fathoms, 
and the whole of the southwestern edge of the bank ap¬ 
pears equally steep. Between the parallels of Penmarc’h 
point and Kochefort, or between 45° 50' and 47° 53' N. 
latitude, where is a remarkable tract of soft mud, limited 
on the SE. by the plateau of Koche Bonne; it is about 150 
miles in length and 20 miles in breadth, and is useful to 
verify a vessel’s position. The surface of this mud is very 
soft, especially on its edges, where it is mixed with a little 
very fine gray sand, and it will scarcely stick to the lead; 
to the eastward the mud is more firm, and to the westward 
rocky bottom is more or less apparent. This difference be¬ 
tween the qualities of the bottom leaves the bed of soft 
mud in a NW. and SE. direction. 

Off the mouth of the Loire between Belle He and He 
d’Yeu, the difference between the two qualities of the bottom 
is less apparent. Between these islands the bottom is of 
sand and gravel, and of br oken and pulv’erized shells. From 
the western edge of the soft muddy bottom, it is in general 
muddy sand, mixed with gravel and some broken shells; the 
muddy sand extends only a few miles westward to a sandy 
bottom,inclining nearly in the same direction. In the offing, 
westward of the soft mud above described, the bottom is of 
sand of a grayish color, and frequently mixed with broken 
and pulverized shells. This quality of the bottom continues 
westward to soundings of 180 fathoms, and extends NW. 
and SE., between the parallels of about 45^ 50' and 47° 25'. 

Vessels bound southward from the English channel, and 
having a fair wind, should at once make westing, as the 
prevailing winds are from that quarter. It is usual, there¬ 
fore, on leaving the Lizard to shape a SW. course, to be 
able to weather Ushant should the wind become adverse; 
and it is absolutely necessary to check the dead reckoning 
by frequent astronomical observations to find the influence 
of tides and currents, and to reach the parallel of the N. coast 
of Spain sufficiently to the westward for the safety of the 
ship. In threatening or bad weather, if it is necessary to 


X“l. 


Vares. S. 72“^; 


S.77°W. 


l.a|)e OrWal . S 30“ Dii: 16 ifiUc 



■ejera SeO^W 


(ape^res- 


d’oinl Esiaca 


Aqinllcmes 


































































CAPE ORTEGAL. 


7 


keep ou instead of seeking a good anchorage, the vessel 
should be brought to the wind on the tack which will en¬ 
able her to approach the proper course without drawing 
deep into the bay. When embayed by westerly gales and the 
attendant in-draught of the current, it may be very difficult 
to weather cape Finisterre or even cape Ortegal, under 
which circumstances shelter may be sought in Ferrol, 
Coruna, Barquero, or Vivero, and, in extreme cases, in the 
ports of the W. coast of France. The tremendous seas that 
roll in along the N. coast of Spain, with northerly and west¬ 
erly gales, are also an element of danger, and the entire 
navigation off the NW. promontory of the Iberian peninsula 
demands unusual precaution and skill. 

Cape Ortegal, in the province of Coruna, and the south¬ 
western limit of the bay of Biscay, is locally known as the 
Alto de Limo, while the name of Ortegal is given to cape 
Aguillones. It is high, round, and precipitous to seaward, 
and when seen from the NW. may be recognized by the 
terraced table-lands rising gradually to the summit, on the 
central point of which is the little tower of Limo, 930 feet 
above the level of the sea. 

From the foot of the cape a tongue of low laud projects, 
called Limo point, surrounded by sunken rocks to the dis¬ 
tance of 50 yards, on which latter the sea always breaks. 
A dangerous shoal, called L6e bank, lies about half a mile 
N. of Limo point. On this shoal there are 2J fathoms at 
low water, and in the channel between it and the shore 
there are 13 to 16 fathoms. 

On making the land from the northward the point is not 
easily distinguished, being backed by higher land. It may 
be known, however, when on this bearing, by a steep, black, 
triangular bluff* close to it. 

Seen from the NE. the cape appears rounded, and the 
terraced table lands are then apparent. 

Two miles off shore there are 40 fathoms water, with a 
bottom of sand and shells, the depth gradually diminishing 
toward the shore. Strong NE. winds are here frequently 
preceded by a strong easterly current. 

During pleasant weather the laud here and to the west¬ 
ward may be coasted at the distance of 1 mile, but when 
bad weather is expected, or during the winter season, it 


Cape Ortegal. 


8 


COAST. 


would be prudent to give it a berth of 5 or 6 miles at 
least. 

Agnii- ij}j0 coast between cape Ortegal and cape Agtrillones, 
which lies IJ miles E. f N., is high, steep, and inaccessible. 
The sea is heavier and the currents are stronger here than 
in any other part of this coast, and sailing-vessels should, 
therefore, give it a wide berth. 

Cape Aguillones is formed of steep, broken rocks, termi¬ 
nating in sharp peaks that rise to a considerable- height. 
On the ]SrW. side it is black, steep, and inaccessible, but 
not so much so when seen from the SE. The NE. face 
forms a triangular bluff half a mile long. 

From this cape a chain of rocky islets extend NE. by 
Islets and rocks. IS"., also steep aiid broken, and rising almost vertically 
from the sea. The most distant from shore, which lies 1 
mile from the cape, is called Caballo Juan; the next one 
inshore is surmounted by three sharp peaks and is called 
Tres Hermanns ; the next and largest of the chain is named 
Insua Mayor; the fourth, shaped like a pyramid, is El 
Eodicio, and the nearest one to the cape is named La Longa. 
Oustide of these islets at a short distance is a sunken rock, 
called La Kocemada, on which the sea always breaks. 
There are passages between these islets, and inside them, 
for small vessels, in which the least water is 10 fathoms, 
rocky bottom. NE. of these rocks, and 1 mile distant from 
them, are found depths of 30 and 35 fathoms, coarse shells. 

The triangular bluff of the NE. face of cape Aguil- 
Coast. lones is called the Fronton de Gargacido, and the point at 

its eastern extremity Seijo or San Julian point, the latter 
being the name of a hermitage in its vicinity. Off’ this point 
at a short distance is a steep, rugged islet, called Marbeira, 
having between it and the shore a channel 50 yards wide, 
with a depth of 5 fathoms. 

Between Seijo point and the Piedras Meas rocks, 2 miles 
Carino inlet, ESE., is the entrance to Oarino inlet, a narrow estuary 
about 5 miles deep, with two arms, extending east and 
west. On the larger of these, the eastern one, the town of 
Santa Marta de Ortigueira is situated. 

Carino inlet is navigable in mid-channel at Fraile and 
Carnero points, having 18 to 20 fathoms at the entrance, but 
only 4 fathoms near the bar of Santa Marta between these 


PORT SANTA MARTA. 


two points. It is not at all a safe place during tlie winter 
months. 

A little more than 1 mile S. of Seijo point is Cariho 
point, low and rocky, with shallow water for some distance 
off it. The coast between is steep and clear of danger, with 
Gabeira islets l^dng so close to it as not to afford j)assage 
for boats. 

Near Carifio point are the mins of barracks belonging to 
former fortifications. This point is the northern limit of 
Carifio bay, about 8 cables wide and deep. In the mid¬ 
dle of the bay there is a depth of 3 to 4 fathoms, sandy 
bottom, the w'ater gradually shoaling tow^ard the beach, on 
which is situated the town of Carifio, having a population 
of about 1,600 inhabitants. This bay is ill protected and 
little frequented. The southern limit of the bay is point 
Castro de Moura, and just to the southward of it is Monteran 
or Mentaron point, otf which are two flat rocks, generally 
above w’ater. Inside of them there is a boat-channel, and 
between them a passage with 4 to 5 fathoms. The outside 
one is steep-to, and may be passed close-to in 7 fathoms, ^ 

sandy bottom. 

From Monteran the coast, of moderate height but backed 
by high land, continues to Fraile point, wdiich may be known 
by a small conical islet just off* it. About 1 mile farther 
to the eastward is the islet of San Vicente, commonly called 
La Insua, large, rounded, and covered with trees and bushes. 

Between this islet and Carnero point is a passage for boats 
at high water. 

The bar of port Santa Marta has two channels—one near Tort sant 

Marta. 

the island of San Vicente, and the other near Fraile point. 

The former has the deeper w^ater, but the latter is better, 
because straighter and more easily navigated. Within the 
bar is a large sand bank, dry in places at low water, only a 
few boat-channels being left open. Off Sismondi and in the 
western part there are deep places, with 5 to 9 fathoms, af¬ 
fording anchorage. 

As these channels are changed by gales of wind, a pilot 
should always be taken. Vessels bound to Santa Marta 
generally anchor off Carifio point to wait for a pilot, or for 
a chance to cross the bar. The village of Sismondi has about 
200 inhabitants, and stands on a hill about half a mile 


ESPASANTE BAY. 


JO 

inland. Farther in is the harbor of Santa Marta, 3 
miles long and 2 miles wide, but much obstructed by sand¬ 
banks. It is the best and most sheltered anchorage on this 
part of the coast for small craft. Vessels can carry 9 feet at 
neap-tides and 11 feet at springs up to the town, which lies on 
the north side of the harbor and has about 1,000 inhabitants. 
Good water and provisions may be obtained. Nothing is 
exported from here, and salt is almost the only import. 

Tides. It is high Water, full and change, at 3^ at Santa Marta, 

and at 30"' at Sismondi. Spring-tides rise 11 feet and 
neaps 9 feet, but the height of the water is much affected 
by the wind. 

amiTiTiagl^ Camero point is Espasante bay, with 

a small village of the same name on its shore. The bay, 
although spacious, affords no shelter, and is not at all fre¬ 
quented. 

Espasante bay is separated from another bay farther 
north, called Concha de San Antonio, by a high, rocky point, 
surmounted by a watch-tower. 

Eandeja point. Froiu the rocky extremity of Bandeja point, the northern 
limit of the Concha de San Antonio, a reef, covered with 
3J to 13 fathoms water, extends 2 miles off shore, to the 

Piedras MeasPiedras Meas, two rocks lying awash at this distance 

roclvs 

NNW. from the point. In heavy weather the sea breaks all 
the way across the channel inside of them ; it should, there¬ 
fore, only be used in fine weather. In passing inside of these 
rocks, they should be kept close aboard; in passing outside, 
they should be given a berth of at least one-fourth of a mile. 
From Bandega point to point Estaca the coast trends 
NE. by E. for 5 miles, and is formed of steep, whitish 
bluffs, with small beaches between them. Near Bandeja 
point the land is mountainous, gradually sloping toward 
point Estaca. 

Caution. Carifio inlet can only be used safely in the summer mouths, 

and favorable conditions of wind and tide should be awaited 
before attempting the bar of Santa Marta. Any swell from 
NE. to NW., through N. outside, is much felt in the inlet, 
and there is but little shelter, except within the bar and for 
the smallest vessels. 

The coast from cape Prior to point Estaca is rocky, bluff, 

































^1*. Varos 


S': 1 


Coiiejei-a S.78'”W:Dist.5iidles 



LiAhl. 



Anzaron I? l)ist.2jimles KoacaJiiiraPoint. Coiigora 14 T^it'lXsiaca, jr.,i W. 


Li§hl. 



Moras. K87'''W.IIist.2iin{ies 


Anzuron 1“ Pr»in{ Roi\<'a<lr>ji'a Conejera J4 


Tovn r l.sUu’.a . 




























































ESTACA POINT. 


11 


and inaccessible, and with N. and NW. winds it is danger¬ 
ous to approach in winter. 

The NW. winds are most frequent on this part of 
the coast in winter, and cause the heaviest sea. Tliey last 
sometimes for fifteen days, or even longer, and are fre¬ 
quently’ accompanied by violent squalls of wind and rain. 

Winds from SSW. and SW.—the vendavales —bring thick 
weather, and are often followed by a severe northwester. 

NE. winds are not as frequent as in summer, but blow 
hard, with rain, when they do occur. South winds almost 
always blow freshly, with clear weather, and last frequently 
for a week; as soon, however, as cloudy weather super¬ 
venes, the vendaval may be expected, to be again followed 
by wind from NW. 

A heavy NW. swell is often the forerunner of a strong 
gale from that quarter. 

In summer, or rather from June to October, NE. winds 

* mer. 

prevail, with generally good weather and smooth sea. 

NVV^ winds, when they occur, are gentle and do not last 
long. The vendaval is rare, especially in June. 

In fine weather the only currents off this shore are those Currents, 
produced by the tides, the flood running NE. or E., and the 
ebb SW. or W. 

W^ell off shore, at a distance which has never been exactly 
determined, a constant NE. current is felt, sometimes strong 
enough to check the ebb-tide. With a fresh NE. wind the 
strength of this current increases, and its effect is felt closer 
inshore. Westerly currents are rarely felt. 

Point Estaca, the northern extremity of the Spanish Estaca point, 
peninsula, is the western extreme of the rocky promontory 
which terminates IJ miles farther to the eastward, in cape 
Yares, the foot of a conical hill called monte del Cabo, 694 
feet high. Point Estaca extends toward the NW., and, 
narrowing as it advances into the sea, terminates in pointed, 
weather-worn rocks. 

Two conical, rocky islets lie a short distance off point Eos signeios. 
Estaca. They are called Los Siguelos, the outer and smaller 
of the two being still further distinguished by the name of 
Estaquin. Immediately outside of Estaquin are two rocks 
just awash, and from here the water deepens gradually to 
seaward, there being 14 fathoms 1 cable outside of Estaquin, 


12 


BARQUERO INLET. 


and 22 fathoms, rocky bottom, at 2 cables farther oat. With 
a NW. wind this vicinity should be avoided, as then the sea 
breaks heavily at a distance outside of Estaca point. 

Light: Lat. 43 ° From a light-tower on a hill about half a mile 8 E. J S. of 
70 Estaquin, white revolving light is exhibited, attaining its 

greatest brilliancy once every minute^ and visible 23 miles in 
clear weather. The light-keeper’s dwelling adjoins the 
tower, which is 35 feet high. The focal plane of the light 
is 306 feet above the level of the sea. 

Cape vares. Cape Vares, about 2 miles SE. from the Siguelos, is high, 
round, bold, and steep to seaward. The intermediate coast, 
facing NNE., is steep and almost inaccessible, and should 
be given a wide berth when the sea is heavy, or when sail¬ 
ing along the coast at night. Near the middle of this front 
is the steep point of Moinos, off which some detached rocks 
extend to the northeastward. A near approach to cape 
Vares is practicable, but it should be borne in mind that, 
with winds from SSW. to WSW., there are frequent and 
dangerous squalls in its vicinity, and the same is the 
case with W. winds, though the squalls then are not so 
heavy. 

In making Barquero inlet, with winds from SW. to NW., 
a vessel is sheltered from the sea, when abreast cape Vares, 
by point Estaca and the islets oft' it. 

Barquero inlet. Between Cape Vares and Conejera (Coelleira) island, 

miles SE., is the entrance to Barquero or, as it is sometimes 
called, Vares inlet. It is wide, clear of danger, easy of 
access, with sandy bottom, good holding-ground, and it is 
sheltered from all winds except from the eastward, but 
these do not raise sufficient sea to endanger vessels that 
have good ground tackling. The inlet extends 3 miles to the 
SW,, narrowing gradually j abreast Vicedo it is half a mile 
wide. The soundings decrease gradually from 18 fathoms 
at the entrance to 3J fathoms between Santa and Castro 
points. Beyond this the depths lessen more rapidly, so that 
a large portion of the head of the inlet is dry at low springs, 
a few channels, however, being kept open. The bottom is 
chiefly of fine sand, with some patches of gravel about the 
entrance. The shores are generally high, clean, and steep-to, 
so that vessels working in may approach them boldly, 
except between the points of Santa and Oampelo, where 


VARES BAY—ANCHORAGES. 


13 


there is a 2-fatboai bank. The little port of Barqiiero is at 
the head of the inlet, but vessels of 10 to 12 I’eet draught can 
only reach the town at high spring-tides. 

At half a mile SW. of cape Vares is the bay of the same Yaresbay. 
name, 6 cables wide and deep, to NW. In the northern 
part of the bight there is a tine beach, and back of it the 
town of Vares, with a population of 030. A ledge, extending 
more than 100 yards WSW. from Bufato point, shelters a 
portion of the bay and beach from the sea that rolls in from 
the NE. Coasters make frequent use of this harbor; in 
summer they anchor here during ISW. winds, letting go in Anchorages. 

G to 8 fathoms near the middle of the bay. Larger vessels 
anchor farther out, in 10 to 12 fathoms. In winter, the sea¬ 
son of NE. winds, it is better to avoid it, and in any case, 
vessels anchored here at this season should be in readiness 
to get under way at the first sign of a NE. wind, and put to 
sea or make the anchorage of Vicedo. 

Ill winter the best shelter from winds from SW. to NW. 
is in the large bay formed by the sweep of the coast between 
points Almeiro and Sobrepuesta, in 4 or 5 fathoms for small 
craft or farther out for large vessels. The best anchorage 
for meu-of-war is oft' the Campelo beach in 7 fathoms water, 
rather nearer the W. than the E. shore of the inlet. The 
best position, and the freest from squalls, is with point Cas- 
trogrande in line with two mills seen above the beach, and 
point Santa in one with mount Furado. The chart of this 
inlet, B. A. No. 77, shows clearly these difterent anchorages. 

Shelter from N. winds may be found on the W. coast of the 
inlet, close inshore between Almeiro and Campelo points. 

Campelo beach cannot be seen until Almeiro point is passed 
in entering. 

The steep points of Sobrepuesta and Santa are at the foot Sobrepuesta 

* * ‘ and Santa points. 

of a high hill, from which fierce gusts sweep down. They 
are close together, and. project so as to narrow the inlet. 

There is good anchorage for vessels of not more than 12 feet 
draught, in winds from S. to N. through W.just off the points; 
but with NE. winds it is unprotected, and when these com¬ 
mence it is well to shift the anchorage to the opposite shore. 

The little port of Barquero lies to the westward of Santa Port Barquero. 
point, between it and mount Furado. Its importance is 
much diminished, as it is obstructed by sands, increasing 


14 


SOR RIVER. 


Sor river. 


Mount Furado. 


Puerto de Vale. 


annuall}", leaving only a small channel under the northern 
shore, where there are but 6 to 8 feet water at low tide. The 
bar at the entrance nearly dries, and vessels bound to Bar- 
quero have to wait for high water and favorable circum¬ 
stances, for with NE. winds, however little sea there maybe, 
the sea breaks all across the bar. In the channel there are 
occasional soundings of 9 feet, but their extent is small, and 
but few vessels of even moderate draught are constantly 
afloat there. 

The town, in the form of an amphitheater, stands under a 
cliff at the foot of a hill 894 feet high, and in a small elbow 
on the northern shore. The population is about 900, but 
there are few resources. There is- a small mole for unlad- 
ing. 

Between the town of Barquero and the point of mount 
Furado, commences a long inlet, called the river Sor, extend¬ 
ing miles to the southward and then 2J miles SW. It is 
about 200 yards across at the entrance, and wider within, 
and a little dredging would make it a commodious and safe 
port. There are some spots in it with 7 or 8 feet at low 
water, while in other places there is hardly sufiicient depth 
at half-tide for large boats 0 7er the banks of fine sand and 
mud by which it is obstructed In winter and during the 
season of the temporales^ vessels lying at Barquero seek 
shelter in this inlet, and it is frequented by vessels of small 
tounas:e for cargoes of a white earth used for the manufac¬ 
ture of poftery. Both here and in the port of Barquero 
several anchors are always used on account of the strength 
of the tidal current. 

Mount Furado is a small peak, covered with sand and ter¬ 
minating in a low point to the NE. Thence the coast trends 
southward and eastward to point Oastrelos, forming Longa 
beach, 7 cables in extent, from which runs an extensive 
shallow flat. 

Beyond Oastrelos point, and between it and Videiros 
point, is a bay 4 cables wide and 2 deep, well protected but 
very shallow, so that the fishing-vessels that frequent it 
haul up on a clean beach at its head. A few scattered 
houses and storehouses for the dried fish constitute the 
village of Vale, in rear of the beach. 


CONEJERA ISLAND LIGHT. 


15 


Between Videiros and Castro points there is the little 
Videiro beach, and between Castro and Congrera points 
is a bight 2 cables wide, called the port of Vicedo, off which 
is considered the best anchorage in the inlet in NE. and 
E. winds. The bottom is of sand and mud, the holding- 
ground good, and the depth about 3 fathoms at low water. 

Small craft arriving oif the entrance to Barquero in NE. 
winds often anchor in this bight, sometimes making fast to 
the rocks. There is a beach at the head of the bight, and 
a spring of good water near it. The village of Vicedo, 
rapidly increasing in size, is scattered about the environs 
of the port. 

Point Cueva Baja, high and rocky, is 2 cables NNE. 
point Congr^ra, and is the limit of the anchorages in NE. 
winds. Thence to Conejera island, 2 miles E. J N., the 
coast is high, clean, and steep-to, and may be approached 
boldly in working in, but it is exposed to the NE. winds. 

Conejera (Coelleira) island is a mile in circuit, high and 
steep to the N. and NE., but lower to the S. On the W. 
there is a little cove used as a landing-place. The island is 
covered with vegetation, and near the landing are the ruins 
of a temple. A shoal named the Esquizo extends out for 
about 50 yards from the northern portion of the island, 
where the sea breaks when there is much swell from the 
NW. 

Between the island and the main there is a channel 2J jcoeiieira chan- 
cables wide, with 9J fathoms water in the middle, that is 
much used by coasters when the sea is smooth. With gales 
from the N. or NW., however, the sea breaks the whole 
way across it, and S. winds bring squalls, which, with the 
whirls of the current, make the passage dangerous for a 
slow-working vessel. If obliged to use this channel, an 
anchor should be kept ready for letting go. 

On the eastern side of Conejera island there is a circular 
gray-granite tower, 24 feet high, with white lantern, which 40 'i 6 " ’w, ” 
exhibits, at 273 feet above sea-level, a fixed white light, 
visible 9 miles in clear weather. A keeper’s dwelling ad¬ 
joins the tower. 

The great advantage of the inlet of Barquero is the ease Advantages, 
with which it may be reached in on-shore winds, it being 
the only harbor of refuge for vessels of large draught on the 


16 


DIRECTIONS. 


Water. 


Tides. 


Directions. 


whole Oautabrian coast in westerly gales. It was here that 
20 sail of merchant-vessels rode out the heavy gales of 
1839-’40. The most dangerous wind is from S\Y., and 
great difficulty is experienced in making an anchorage with 
a storm from this quarter. In such a case a great effort 
should be made to pass tolerably close to cape Vares, tack, 
ing then to windward of Ooelleira island, and anchoring off 
Yares bay, unless it seems possible to work farther in. 
Large vessels should endeavor to reach this port when 
caught in a storm from S. or SW., and unable to make a 
harbor W. of cape Prior, for, except the port of Yivero, 
which adjoins it, the only harbors to the eastward are very 
small and obstructed by dangerous bars. 

There are three or four good watering-places in the inlet. 
The best place, before mentioned, is on the SE. shore, near 
Yicedo village. There is also an excellent run on the oppo¬ 
site shore, near Campelo point, where two or three boats 
can water at the same time, even at low tide. In Yares 
bay it may also be had, though not so good as at the other 
places. Barquero has good water, and here, as at Yares, 
some supplies may be purchased; but provisions in any 
quantity must be procured from Yivero, 6 miles inland. 

It is high water, full and change, at the mole of Barquero, 
at 3^ 15“; ordinary springs rise 9 feet and neaps 6 feet. 
The rise is 3 to 4 feet above the ordinary level, with strong 
NW. winds, and the contrary with those from the NE. The 
current in the channel runs 3 miles an hour at springs. 

In approaching from the westward, with westerly winds, 
and especially with S\Y. winds, a vessel should keep suffi¬ 
ciently near the coast to recognize it, as the land is fre¬ 
quently much obscured. If cape Prior have not been 
sighted, cape Ortegal is a good mark, and will be known by 
the Aguillones islets lying well out; and as these are not 
so high as the cape, they are more easily made out in thick 
weather. The next mark is point Estaca, running down 
rugged to the sea, with a light-house on the summit and 
some conical islets lying off’ it. With smooth water Esta- 
quin, the outer islet, may be passed at about I mile or less, 
so as to pass close to Cape Yares, which is bold and may be 
kept close aboard, but with strong winds from VY. to SW. 
heavy gusts rush down it, endangering a vessel’s masts, so 


PILOTS. 


17 


that great precaution is necessary. With SW. and SSW. 
winds there is not much sea along the coast, but with a 
swell from the^^^^W. a wide berth should be given Estaquin 
islet and the rocks off point Moiiios, passing the former at 
a distance of 2 or 3 miles, as a NW. wind will i)ermit an 
easy approach to cape Yares. 

With strong S. winds it is indispensable to approach the 
coast as near as the dangers off’ it will allow, heading first 
for Ooelleira island, as that is the most favorable point for 
making the first board into the bay. If the wind be too 
strong to allow of reaching port Barquero, an endeavor 
should be made to reach the anchorage of Yivero, which is 
equally good with these winds. 

With all other winds there is little difficulty in entering. 

A large vessel bound for the inlets or ports of the coast of 
Asturia, or for Santander, overtaken in this vicinity by a 
SW. gale, should enter and wait at Barquero for better . 
weather on account of the difficult bars of the eastern har¬ 
bors. 

The inlet may be recognized by point Estaca, the lowest 
land along this part of the coast, by the mountain of cape 
Yares, and by a hill 804 feet high, on which stands the Yares 
watch-tower. As soon as the inlet opens, Longa beach and 
mount Eurado are seen. 

In fair weather and in the summer the land and 
breezes blow along this portion of the coast, the sea-breeze 
blowing from NW. during the day. In the evening the 
land-breeze commences and blows until 8 or 9 a. m., when 
it falls calm and the sea-breeze recommences. 

The prevailing wind is from NE., and brings fair weather. 
In summer it is very frequent, but in winter it lasts but a 
short while and blows strong. 

Yessels needing help in mooring, getting up anchor, &c., 
may obtain assistance from the fishing-boats and others of 
Yares and Yicedo ; and pilots may be obtained at Barquero 
or Yares to take a vessel over the bar. Pilot charges are 
30 reales. 

South of Conejera island, on the main-land, are the points 
of Pena Eubia and Yentosa at the foot of a hill named 
Yentosa, 482 feet high, and with a lookout tower on its sum- 
2 N c 


18 


PORT VIYERO. 


mitj the hill shows a high, steep, rounded, and broken 
front to the north. Thence the coast trends S. by E., still 
high and steep, to the little beach of San Koman, off which 
are some conical rocks, named Los Oastelos de Laguete. 
There are 16 fathoms water 200 or 300 yards off the coast, 
and vessels sometimes anchor abreast the beach in SW. 
winds. 

Socastro point. Socastro point, or Testa de Castro, the western point of 
entrance to Yivero inlet, is a rather low, bluff promontory, 
with a few detached rocks at its base, the foot of the long 
slope of a hill 2 miles inland. 

Port Yivero. ^[^0 entrance to Vivero inlet is between Socastro point 
on the W. and Faro point on the E., the latter being 1 
mile ESE. from the former. Though not so wide, this inlet 
is as deep as Barqnero inlet to the S., and offers good shel¬ 
ter from winds from S. to N. through W., along its western 
shore, and from those from NE. and E. under the eastern. 
The soundings are less than in the Barquero, and the head 
of the inlet is gradually shoaling with sand. It is chiefly 
resorted to by vessels driven to the eastward of Barquero 
in westerly gales, and as the inlet extends almost directly 
S., and as under the land the squalls are not so strong as 
in the latter, more sail can be carried and the anchorage 
may be reached with fewer tacks, though the boards are 
shorter. The shores are clean, bold, and safe, all dangers 
off them showing above water. The soundings decrease 
gradually from 12 fathoms at the entrance to 3 fathoms 
near the head of the inlet, with bottom generally of fine 
sand, except in the concha or bay of San Juan, where it is 
sand and mud, excellent holding-ground. Vessels of 10 
to 12 feet draught go, at high tide, as far as the bridge of 
Vivero, using the channel kept open by the tidal currents 
and the waters of the Landrove river j but they are stranded 
at low water, unless in a deep place by the bridge, where^ 
there are always 6 to 9 feet water, and where there is room 
for half a dozen vessels. Large boats can get to Landrove 
village, about 3 miles up the river. 

Gabeiraislet. Gabeira islet, a little within point Socastro, is of moder¬ 
ate height, and between it and the shore there are to 7 
fathoms water in the middle of the channel, which is half a 
cable across, and may be used in case of necessity. 


^ Vares 


I 



'tow^eml* Voi-es. ‘ Ctvi>e Vai-es. ' U ir.66° w:Dist.b.maes. 


M Tares. 


XmcyWatch tower. S. 84° V; 44./l”-Vn)ist:.4i-miles 

I Coflleira 14 T4.83'4T 



Monte Faro. B.K^WDist S miles. 


.Testa de Castro .S .37°W 



Gabetra S. 32° W. 













































































































SAN JUAN BAY. 


19 


South of Gabeira islet, and 6 cables distaut, is Caballo 
point, with a spacious bay between; in the bay there are 
two beaches, the larger being named Abrela. It is exposed 
to NE. winds, but coasters anchor off it in winds from S. 
to W. when they cannot work farther in. The beach is 
clean, the depth increasing gradually from it to 10 fathoms 
between the island and the point. 

From Caballo point the coast makes a short curve to 
Queimada islet one-fourth of a mile farther S. The islet lies 
close to the land. Thence the coast trends to the SW. and 
S., forming the bay of San Juan, or Concha de San Juan, so 
named from the village of San Juan de Coba on its shore. 
Within the bay and close to the shore are a number of de¬ 
tached islets and rocks, one of the former. La Insua, limit¬ 
ing the bay on the S. Here is the best anchorage for large 
vessels in the winter, as it is sheltered from all winds. 
Coasters anchor well in under the landj large vessels farther 
out, about 2 cables off' shore, in 4J to 5 fathoms water, sand 
and mild, with Caballo point in one with Gabeira island. 
In summer anchorage may be taken nearer the middle of the 
inlet in 5 to 5J fathoms, with the most salient point of 
Queimada islet just touching the eastern side of Gabeira 
islet, and point Puntal in one with the southernmost houses 
of old Cillero. In both of these positions vessels should 
ride to a long scope on account of the sea that rolls in. 

The southern limit of San Juan bay is the islet of Insua 
and some steep rocks, named Gastellos del Grallal. Thence 
commences a sandy flat, which extends about G cables to 
the S. and then 8 cables eastward, as far as Lavandeiras 
bay, obstructing all the head of the inlet. It is named Grallal 
beach, and is gradually extending northward; its breakers 
reach, at times, the i)arallel of Cillero village. At low water 
it is almost uncovered, only a few little channels being left 
open. The town of Yivero stands on the eastern shore at 
the head of the inlet, and at the foot of mount San Eoque, 
1,230 feet high. It has a population of about 2,500, and is 
connected with the opposite shore by a bridge of twelve 
arches, continued farther by a causeway 2 cables long. 

Just inside the bridge the inlet is about 3 cables wide, 
and this is an excellent place for small craft to careen for 
cleaning the hull. The Landrove river, after watering a 


Caballo point. 


San Juan bay. 


Grallal beach. 


Vivero. 



20 


VIVERO BAR. 


Cillero. 


Bar, 


Monte Faro. 


very fruitful section to the southward, empties here, and in 
winter is a very considerable stream. There is a mole at 
Vivero where the coasters discharge, and small coasters, 
with numerous fishing-vessels, belong to the town, and are 
built here. 

From Yivero a high, winding, and, in parts, precipit¬ 
ous shore runs N. 1 mile to the village of old Cillero, 
built on an eminence jutting out into the sea, which sepa¬ 
rates Lavandeiras ba}" and beach on the south from the 
smaller port and beach of Cillero on the north. On the 
shore of the former is new Cillero, with storehouses and 
establishments for fish-salting. The inhabitants are almost 
all fishermen. Lavandeiras .bay is obstructed with sand, 
so as to be almost dry at low water. 

The bar at the entrance of the channel leading to Vivero 
is between the eastern extremity of Grallal beach and 
point Pena de las Concas, the most projecting point of the 
cliff on which Cillero stands. Close off this point is a rock, 
named Sereui, sometimes covered, which it is necessary to 
l)ass close aboard in entering the channel. As the bar is 
of shifting sands, it is necessary to employ the services of 
one of the fishermen of the village as pilot in entering with 
a vessel of 9 or 11 feet draught. The pilot charge is 30 reals. 
The greatest depth on the bar at high water is 12 feet. 

Large vessels wishing to communicate with Vivero can 
anchor in summer in 4 or 5 fathoms, at about 1 cable from 
the entrance to the channel •, but this position is unsafe in 
winter. 

From point Puutal, limiting port Cillero on the N., the 
coast, high and steep, trends northward, and, bending grad¬ 
ually to the NE., forms the spacious bay of Area, with the 
beach of San Julian at its head. Area islet, rather larger 
and higher than Gabeira, is in the northern part of the bay, 
at about 100 yards from the shore. The channel between 
is almost filled with rocks, leaving only a narrow boat- 
channel, with 2 to 3 fathoms water. 

A conical hill, called monte Faro, the height of which is 
given by different authorities as 546, 664, and 716 feet, forms 
the northern and eastern limit of Vivero inlet. Its isola¬ 
tion and regular form make it easy to recognize, and it is an 
excellent landmark in making the inlet. The ruins of a 


TIDES—DIRECTIONS. 


21 


lookout tower are on its summit; its slopes fall gradually to 
the sea, and terminate in the N W. in Faro point, clean and 
steep-to. Between it and Gabeira islet there are 11 to 13 
fathoms water. 

Good water is plentiful in the inlet of Vivero, the chief Resources, 
springs and brooks being at Vivero and Oillero and at the 
beaches of Lavandeiras and Grallal. Provisions can be ob¬ 
tained at reasonable prices, and workmen for necessary re¬ 
pairs. 

It is high water, full and change, at the bar of Vivero at Tides, 
springs rise 11 to 12 feet, and neaps 8 to 0 feet. 

With strong winds from SW. or N\V., the water rises 4 or 5 
feet above its usual level; and with those from NE. and SE., 
it is depressed 3 feet below it. Tlie stream has a velocity 
of 3 miles in the channel, and 1^ miles in the middle of the 
inlet. 

It is usual for vessels to tr^" to make Viv^ero inlet when Directions, 
bound for Barquero with strong SW. or N\V. winds, if una¬ 
ble to fetch the latter, or, having entered, if obliged to leave 
it on account of loss of anchors or dragging. In such cases 
the coast should be kept close aboard, and the channel in¬ 
side Conejera island used if possible. Once inside Oaballo 
point, the anchor may be let go in 8 fathoms, veering to 70 
or 80 fathoms chain ; the holding-ground is good. In com. 
ing from the E. with easterly winds, a vessel should keep 
well inshore, as well, and pass Faro point close-to, and i 
then unable to enter the inlet endeavor to enter Barquero, 
using the Conejera channel if practicable. The advantage 
of Vivero is the clear and tenacious holding-ground, the 
only precaution advisable being to sight the anchors from 
time to time, to prevent their sinking so far as to render it 
difficult to get under way promptly. Sometimes vessels 
lirevented by strong southerly winds from taking either in¬ 
let, anchor in 12 to 14 fathoms, off the beach of San Koman, 
to await a change ; or, keeping the land close aboard, run to 
the eastward toward cape Moras, and keep under sail be¬ 
tween Saihas and San Cipriano points, where they find less 
wind; or they anchor in the bay of Lago. 

The proximity of Barquero and Vivero inlets is of great 
advantage to vessels seeking shelter from southerly gales 
in the winter season. Those from the W. coast of Spain 


22 


CO BANK. 


C6 bank. 


Lage Bank. 


Marks. 


Saifias point. 


should keep the land well aboard from cape Ortegal, and be 
prepared for heavy squalls and eddy winds off the land. If 
prevented by the latter from making the anchorages of Ya- 
res or Campelo in Barquero, they can still reach Vivero by 
passing close outside of Conejera island ; or, if practicable? 
inside of it, ranging the land so as to round Socastro point 
without a tack if possible, letting go as soon as the vessel 
is in 7 or 8 fathoms. 

Socastro point cannot be rounded close-to in a NVV. gale, 
on account of a rocky bank named the Co, lying E. of it, on 
which the sea then breaks, and the whole extent between it 
and the point is then covered with breakers. The least 
depth of water on the bank is fathoms at about 3 cables 
from the point. The Co lies nearly N. of Gabeira islet, with 
the Castelos de Laguete rocks off the beach of San Eoman 
in one with Socastro point, and the Castelos del Grallal in 
line with the W. side of the inlet. 

To pass outside the bank, keep the summit of the hill 
forming cape Vares in the middle of Conejera channel, 
until the Castelos del Grallal are open of the W. shore of the 
inlet. There are 14 fathoms a short distance outside the 
bank. 

Another bank, called the Lage, less dangerous on account 
of the greater depth of water and its nearness to the shore, 
lies 1 cable S\V. of Faro point. 

Vivero inlet is easily recognized from whatever direction 
it is approached. When approaching it from the westward, 
Estaca point, cape Vares, and Conejera island successively 
present themselves j from the E. the Farallones of San Cip- 
riano, Anzarou island, and the unmistakable monte Faro 
are made; and in approaching from the K the break in the 
coast-line is a guide until the marks already described can 
be seen. 

At 2 miles NE. from Faro point is point Saihas, low at 
its extremity but rising inland; it is clean, and maybe 
passed at a distance of 2 cables with safety. Between these 
points is a deep bay, named Esteiro, with a beach of the 
same name and some scattered buildings on the hillside in¬ 
land. The whole bay is foul, and when there is much sea 
the breakers extend a long distance seaward. 

From Sainas point the coast, high and rocky, extends 


Netos islets. 


>'" 10 . 



‘ rOTflllmi S.66°E 
/ 


Cjipe^oras 

S.51.°E.l)ist.5.Tniies. 


Anzaron 14 























































































































ANZARON ISLAND. 


23 


ENE. three fourths of a mile to a point jutting to the N., off 
which are two islets, named Los Netos. Neto Grande, the 
larger islet, is about 20 yards off the point, and is high and 
steep; i^eto Chico is 50 or GO yards to the NE. of Keto Grande, 
and is lower and flatter. There is deep water in the channels 
between, and 6 or 7 fathoms close outside of them, with 30 
fathoms at 2 cables, so that they may be passed at a pru¬ 
dent distance. 

From the point of Los Netos a high and steep coast runs 
ENE. JE. 1 mile to Koncadoira point, high, broken, and 
steep to seaward, with 23 fathoms water within half a mile 
of it. The coast between forms a bay, at the head of which 
is an islet close to the beach. 

Between Eoncadoira point and Anzaron island, a little Anzaron island, 
more than 1 mile E. by S., the coast recedes to the south¬ 
ward, forming a bay of considerable size, named Eeboira, 
at the head of which the Portocelo river disembogues; 
its mouth is very narrow, and only admits boats at high 
tide. The river widens within, but its bed is almost dry at 
low water. West of the mouth there are two islets, with a 
boat channel inside of them, and the village of Vilacha is 
on a height overlooking the stream. 

Anzaron islet is high, rugged, and barren, presenting 
high, whitish clifis to the northward, and sloping in a regu¬ 
lar fall to the S. It is only about 12 yards from the coast, 
so that at a distance it is difficult to distinguish from the 
sombre lands of the main. It is clean and bold, having 8 
fiithoms, rocky bottom, close-to, and 20 fathoms at a short 
distance. 

At miles ESE. J E. from Anzaron island is cape Moras, CapeMor^s. 
rocky, and rising in almost vertical cliffs 85 feet high. It 
projects to NE., and is commanded by heights attaining an 
elevation of 1,250 feet. There is an islet (farallon) at its 
foot, and half a mile NW. of it there is a shoal, named Can- 
grejeiro, with 13 fathoms water on it. The little village of 
Moras is on the western side of the cape. 

At 2i miles SE. of cape Moras is the Atalaya or look-^^san Cipnano 
out of San Cipriano. The coast between recedes to the SW. 
and forms a large bight, wdthin which are four bays with 
beaches. The smallest of these and the nearest to the cape 
is named Portiho, and the next, which is also the largest 


4 


24 


SAN CIPRIANO BAY. 


and best, is called Lago, taking its name from a village on 
its shore. It is clear and navigable, with good holding- 
ground, and is protected from SW. and NW. winds. It is 
much frequented by coasters during SW. gales, and by 
vessels that in stormy weather have been unable to make 
either Barquero or Viv^ero, and it has the advantage of 
being easy to enter, and free from the heavy gusts of wind 
encountered in those inlets. 

In entering from the W. with a S. wind, a vessel should 
first reach well over to the Farallones, and then work in to 
the anchorage by short tacks between the Farallones and 
the cape. In coming from the E. with easterly winds the 
land should be kept w^ell aboard and the anchorage reached 
without a tack. The fact already mentioned that the SW. 
gales are least formidable between points Saiuas and San 
Cipriano, makes the Lago anchorage almost always easy of 
access. The best position for a large vessel is N. and S. 
with cape Moras and Pie islet (Farallones) bearing ENE. J E., 
easterly, in 11 fathoms water, fine sand. Outside of this 
position there are patches of rock, and care should be 
exercised in letting go to keep clear of them. Smaller ves¬ 
sels anchor farther in, abreast a cove between the beaches 
of Lago and Portiiio. If overtaken at this anchorage by a 
northerly gale there is little danger of dragging with good 
ground-tackling, for the rocky ground, with to 
fathoms water on it, between the cape and the Farallones, 
breaks the sea considerably. If obliged to abandon the 
vessel the crew may be saved by running the boats into 
the cove above mentioned, under the lee of a salient point. 
If surprised by a NE. gale, which rarely rolls in a very 
heavy sea, get under way on the port tack, so as to weather 
the cai)e on the other board. There is no difficulty in pass¬ 
ing between the Farallones and San Cipriano in depths of 
11 to 13 fathoms. 

Paranos beacii. Beyond Lago beach there is a short stretch of rocky coast, 
followed by a smaller beach, named Paranos. It is not so 
clean as the former, and there are rocky patches off it. It 
is exposed to northerly winds. 

Lieiro beach. After another short, low, and rocky extent of coast comes- 
Lieiro beach, the nearest to San Cipriano. It is about the 
same size as Paranos and equally foul. Off both these 


FARALLONES DE SAN CIPRIANO. 


25 


beaches, and in the greater part of San Cipriano bay, the 
bottom is of alternate patches of rock and sand. 

Another low, rocky bit of coast separates Lieiro beach cipriana 
from the beach of San Cipriano, on which is the village of 
Figiieiras. Thence a neck of sand, about 100 yards long 
and 50 yards wide, extends NE. by N., and forms the isthmus 
of the little peninsula on which stands the village of Sau 
Cipriano. This peninsula is a mass of granite rock cov¬ 
ered with a layer of sand and a sparse vegetation; rocky 
points project in every direction. To the northward it 
terminates in level ground, on which, at an elevation of 83 
feet, stands the Atalaya or look-out. From the Atalaya 
Pie islet (Faralloues) bears N. 0 ° 55' E.; cape Moras, K 
440 14 / . and cape Burela, S. Gfo 4F E. The village of 

San Cipriano is on rocky ground on the western side of the 
peninsula, and at high spring-tides and during NVV. gales 
is cut off from communication with Figueiras, the isthmus 
being then overflowed. Population of San Cipriano, in¬ 
cluding the hamlet of Figueiras, about 400. 

At 1 mile N. J W. from the Atalaya of San Cipriano are Faraiiones d& 
three rocky islets, the group being called the Faraiiones. 

The largest, Sombriza, is nearly a quarter of a mile long 
ENE. and WSW. 5 it is rather low and narrow. Baja, 
flatter than the former, is half a cable to the southward; it 
is nearly as long, E. and W., and about 50 yards across. 

The most remarkable of the three islets, Pi 6 , is an almost 
circular, inaccessible rock 83 feet high and of a reddish color. 

It is the first made out from a distance, and is a good mark 
when bound for the bay or port of San Cipriano. It is some 
70 yards NE. by E. J E. from Sombriza, and is separated 
from it by a channel, in which are many rocks scarcely cov¬ 
ered at low tide, but with 5J to 6 ^ fathoms water between. 

The channel between Sombriza and Baja is narrowed by 
reefs jutting out from the islands, is foul, and not navigable. 

Around all these islets, at a short distance, there are 4J to 
5 J fathoms water, rock, and in the channel between them 
and the shore to 13 fathoms, sand and rock. At a short 
distance to the eastward there are 16J fathoms water, shells, 
and at about 3 cables NNE. of Sombriza there is a rocky 
bank with 11 to 13 fathoms on it, only dangerous in a heavy 


sea. 


26 


SAN CIPRIANO. 


San Clement Sombriza, the most westerly as well as the largest of the 
Faralloues, lies If miles ESE., nearly, from cape Moras, 
and in the space between there is a rocky ridge or chain of 
reefs extending in a southerly direction, and called San 
Clemente reefs; the least water on it is 4J and fathoms, 
and the sea breaks on it in N. and NW. gales. Small craft 
belonging to this part of the country use the channels 
between the reefs, even in heavy weather, when making 
the port from the westward. The best and deepest channel 
lies close to Sombriza, and to use it a vessel should give a 
berth of 2 cables to the W. point of the island. Another 
channel lies between the reefs and Cape Moras, but is infe¬ 
rior to the first j to use it a vessel should pass at about 1 
cable from the cape. 

Between the Farallones and the Atalaya the channel is 
navigable for all classes of vessels; a reef extends about 2 
cables SE. from Baja islet, and there is a shoal 100 yards 
KE. from the Atalaya, but between these dangers, only 
formidable in very heavy seas, there is a deep, wide channel 
for vessels of the largest draught. 

Port San cip- Po^t Sau Cipriaiio is contained between the beach on the 
W. side of the peninsula and Anzuela islet, which lies a 
little distance WNW. of the western point of the promon¬ 
tory. This islet extends about 150 yards ENE. and WS W., 
and at high spring-tides is almost entirely covered. At 1 
cable N. of it there is a small cluster of rocks awash at half¬ 
tide, called Vendaval ledge. The port will scarcely more 
than accommodate five vessels of about 100 tons conveniently, 
and they must make fast to the rocks of the islet and lay 
out anchors to the southward. The depth is 3 to fathoms, 
sand and weed, and with winds from the NW. quarter the 
port is only protected from half-ebb to half-flood, as at high 
tide a considerable sea runs over the islet. If overtaken 
here by a NW. gale the vessels are generally secured as 
well as possible and the crews are landed. Vessels of 200 
tons load here during the summer season. 

San cipriano The little river of San Cipriano empties into the port S. 

of the islet, but the shallow and shifting sands of the bar 
allow only vessels of 8 feet draught to enter. Once inside, 
however, they are sheltered in all weathers, with the sole 
inconvenience of lying aground at low water on a bottom 


X’ 




FoTrU San Cipnano 




Atalaya oi’SanCijjriano. S.20®lCDist.4i3iiles. • Ft«ralloFn 



pQniir»arol« S 38°E.Dist£irales. Point JiiaaMarino. 






















































































































SAN CIPRIANO LIGHT. 


27 


of soft mud. This little river port is busily engaged in 
lading and unlading, careening, repairing, and building 
vessels; it owes much ot its importance to the iron-works 
of Sargadelos, 3 miles inland. There is a custom-house 
here of the fourth class, and a small garrison. 

Good water may be obtained from the river above the 
bridge, and better from the spring of Lieiro ; but the latter 
gives more work in loading the boats. Provisions are scarce, 
and if desired in any quantity, must be obtained from Vi- 
vero, 6 miles away. 

It is high water, fidl and change, at port San Cipriano at 
3'‘. Springs rise about 11 feet, but are more or less affected 
by the direction of the wind. 

On the nortli extremity of San Cipriano peninsula, there 
is a light-gray granite tower, with white lantern, from which 
there is displayed, at an elevation of 121 feet above the sea, 
a fixed ivhite light, visible 9 miles in clear weather. The 
tower is 29 feet high, and adjoins the north front of the 
keeper’s dwelling. 

When bound for San Cipriano, and coming from the 
eastward, steer for the Pie until the channel east of Anzu- 
ela islet opens, and then pass between the peninsula and the 
Farallones. In coming from the westward, make cape Mo¬ 
ras and then head for Lieiro beach, passing batween the 
ca[)e and San Clemente reefs to take the channel W. of 
Anzuela. If there is much swell it is better to pass between 
the San Clemente reefs and the Farallones, where the chan¬ 
nel is wider and deeper. 

There are two channels into the port, the one east, the 
other west, of Anzuela. The former is clear of rocks, and 
is generally taken, the mark through being the eastern point 
of Baja on with the Pie astern. The western channel is 
wider, but foul, and to enter it with a lOO-ton vessel it is 
necessary to head for Lieiro beach, and when at half a ca- 
ble from it keep along the shore at this distance until inside. 

In entering wdth a heavy sea on, sufficient sail must be 
carried to keep good steerage-way, and all preparations 
should be made for letting go at once as the port is so small* 

If the pilot-signal be made, one of the sailors or fishermen 
will come out at once to bring the vessel in. There are no 


Water. 


Tides. 


Light: Lat. 43° 
13' N.: long. 7° 
IS' 31" W. 


Directions. 


Pilots. 


28 


BURELA POINT. 


regular pilot charges. Boats from the town are always 
ready to render any assistance that may be needed. 

LeixondeiNor- East of the peiiinsula of San Cipriano the coast forms a 
little bay", named Oaosa, off which are some rocks, the far¬ 
thest out and most dangerous being called the Leixon del 
i^'ordeste, (NE. ledge,) half a mile S. 72^ E. from the Ata- 
laya. Vessels working along the coast, therefore, should not 
pass to the southward of the parallel of Atalaya point. 

Porteio. A little farther E. of San Cii)riano is a little bight, ob¬ 

structed by rocks, named Porteio, only used as a port for 
boats. A brook empties at the head of the bight. 

Somonte point. Proceeding eastward from cape Moras, the coast grows 
constantly lower, and is backed by high, mountainous lauds. 
The low projecting point of Somonte is nine-tenths of a mile 
S. 62° E. of Atalaya point, and the coast between is fronted 
by rocks, so that the sea breaks a considerable distance out, 
making it dangerous for vessels to approach. 

This is followed by the lower, cleaner point of Juan Ma¬ 
rino, on each side of which there is a little bight and a small 
stream. 

PointBureia. ^ ^^vel sliore Continues to point Burela, 4 miles S. 

640 40 / E. of Atalaya point. It is generally rocky’ and foul. 
A high, white beach, named Marosa, shows just at the point, 
and is a good mark for it. Burela point is low, rocky", and 
steep, and of a reddish color; it projects to the NE., and is 
the termination of a high mountain with rather a flat sum¬ 
mit, called by the seamen of this coast Konadoira. In fine 
weather the point may be passed at the distance of 1 mile, 
but in rough w’eather it must be giv’^n a wide berth, as the 
foul ground causes the sea to break a long way out. The 
village of Burela, from w-hich the point takes its name, is 
scattered along the shore of port Burela, which follows the 
l)oint to southeastward. 

Guifof Foz. From Burela point the coast trends southeastward, form¬ 
ing a bay 19 miles across and 5 miles deep, named the gulf 
of Foz, more generally known among the coasters as the 
gulf of Masma, from the river of that name which empties 
into Foz inlet, the eastern limit being Tapia islet and the 
adjoining reefs. The shores are usually rocky and the bot¬ 
tom foul, so that with on-shore winds there is a dangerous, 
broken sea, and it is much dreaded by mariners during the 


WINDS—FOGS. 


29 


winter season. When the wind is from SW. outside it 
is from the S. in the gulf, with heavy squalls that necessi¬ 
tate great care in carrying sail. With winds from W. to E. 
through N., there is much sea, and all precaution must be 
used not to get embayed. A berth of 2 miles should be 
given this coast in fine weather, and 3 miles should there 
be any sea. 

The prevailing winds in winter, in and about the gulf, 
are southwesterly. If, outside, it is blowing from SW. to 
WSW., it is blowing hard inside from S. to SSW., with 
heavy squalls j and with an east wind outside there is a 
southeasterly wind in the gulf. The violence of these winds 
extends for 12 or 15 miles, beyond which they become more 
steady. Occasional winters have occurred when the SW. 
gales have lasted for one or two successive months, almost 
without interruption, but they rarely exceed four days. 
With gales from or NW. a heavy sea sets upon the 
coast, so that nearly the entire space between the entrance 
points is covered with breakers, and sometimes all the 
ports are closed in consequence. Occasionally this NW. 
swell sets in without apparent cause, and during the finest 
weather. 

In summer the vendavales are less frequent, the prevail¬ 
ing winds being then from the NE., and lasting sometimes 
a fortnight or three w^eeks. Occasional winds from the SE. 
quarter bring clouds and rain; these winds haul to S., W., 
and NW., clearing at W. There are generally land-breezes 
in the gulf, especially about the inlets and in their vicinity, 
blowing during the night and until 9 or 10 a. m., when the 
JS^E. or NNE. breeze sets in and lasts until evening. 

The SW. gales, or vendavales^ are the worst, bringing 
thick weather and almost uninterrupted rain. West and 
WI^W. gales in winter blow with frequent and heavy 
squalls and considerable rain, but clearing occasionally. 
NE. winds generally blow clear. 

Fogs are frequent in June and July, being brought from 
the English channel to the coast by the NE. winds. They 
usually last 3 or 4 days. 

At Ilivadeo a NE. wind is prognosticated when mount 
Mondigo is covered with fog or light clouds, and the coast 
in the vicinity of San Cipriano is obscured ; but when 


Winds. 


Fogs. 


30 


CURRENTS—COAST. 


Currents. 


Chacintiras is 
lets. 


Piedra de Bu- 
rela. 


Coafct, 


mount Mondigo and the coast are clear a westerly wind 
may be expected. 

During the summer constant currents, setting W. and 
N W., are experienced, according to the contour of the coast 
and the distance off it. Tidal currents extend but a short 
distance out, and set W. with the ebb and E. with the flood. 
From June to September the current is strongest, setting 
WNW., with a velocity of about 2 miles when the wind is 
steady at NE., particularly about the Orria de Tapia and 
point Burela. In winter, on the contrary, the currents set 
eastward, and, near point Burela, SE., to the head of the 
gulf, with about the same velocity when the wind is north¬ 
westerly. From the above the necessity*of great care is 
evident in the navigation of these waters, especially in un¬ 
settled weather. 

Less than 100 yards K. 30° W. from Burela point are the 
Chacineiras islets, appearing as three islets at high water, 
but forming a single island at low tide. They are sur¬ 
rounded by reefs, and in the channel, between them and the 
shore, the depth is scarcely more than 2 fathoms. 

■ Another small steep islet, named Piedra de Burela, lies 
about 300 yards SE. JE. from the point, and is connected 
with it by sunken reefs, on which the sea breaks when there is 
much swell. Inside the rock, over the reefs, are 2 to 3J fath¬ 
oms water, and a short distance outside of it 7 to 8 fathoms. 
If obliged to pass inside, a vessel should keep nearer the rock 
than the shore. At high tide this islet looks like a boat. 

A little more than 2 miles SSE. JE. from Burela point is 
point Areoura, at the eastern extremity of the beach of the 
same name. The intermediate coast is low and foul, with 
reefs and rocks lying off it; it forms a bight named port 
Burela, only used in summer by coasters, who come to load 
with moulding-clay for the Sargadelos iron works. Point 
Areoura is low and rocky, and is followed by a stretch of 
low, broken coast, extending 1 mile to point Nois, the ex¬ 
tremity of a rugged promontory, extending to northeast¬ 
ward. Between these points a rocky islet, named Orjal, lies 
close to the shore. In the elbow on the south side of Nois 
point fishing-vessels take shelter during SV\^ winds, and the 
village of IN’ois is scattered over the plain from which the 
point projects. 


M' Konudoii’u 




Ful-nlloii 


S‘!1G. 



CapeBtu’cla B. 54°^Dist.7ijdles. 




M'. Mondi^o. S.28°'W'.Distl5.irules. 



Gulf ofl’oz. 





















































Mt RoJit 


















































































FOZ INLET. 


31 


Ofi the beach of Area Longa, which is half a mile long, 
and commences a little S. of point ISTois, there is good an¬ 
chorage for coasters in SW. winds. Like all the preceding, 
point Fasouro is low and rocky; between it and Villarinea 
point, distant 1 mile, is Fasouro beach, hardly so large as 
Area Longa, and in the middle of it the Oro or Fasouro 
Kiver falls into the sea, by the village of the same name. 

Small coasters only can cross the bar of this stream at high 
water. 

Point Villarmea is low, projecting, and rocky; thence 
follows a long beach, with scattered bowdders, that termin¬ 
ates at Point Marzan, less projecting than the former. 

The coast all along is backed by high, mountainous laud, 
spurs of the Gistral Mountain, that attains an elevation of 
3,395 feet. The nearest to the coast are the peak of Tres 
Mujeres, 3 miles WSW. of Areoura point, 1,635 feet high, 
and mount Cabaleiros, 3J miles WSW. of port Burela, 
which rises to 1,670 feet. 

A short stretch of coast of sand and rocks follows point 
Marzan, and just before reaching Escairo point there is a 
short, foul beach and a group of rocks, covered at high 
water, both named Las Lobas. These rocks lie along the 
coast, and reach almost to point Escairo. 

Point Escairo, 7 J miles SE. J S. from Burela point, is low and foz inlet, 
even, forming a plain about three-fourths of a mile across, and 
terminating at the foot of a small hill named Goto de Castro, 

220 feet high, the pines on which form an excellent mark. 

Escairo rock, 46 feet high, lies close off the extremity of the 
point, and shows a steep, black face to the K, and two islets, 
of the same height, are a short distance off the NW. side 
of the point. This point is the NW. limit of Foz inlet, the 
entrance to which is about 450 yards across. 

Foz inlet is spacious, but so entirely obstructed by sand 
that it is dry at low water, except in some channels and 
small holes, where there are 1 and 2 fathoms water. The 
spring rise being about 11 feet, only vessels of 10 feet draught 
can enter, and it is solely frequented by a few coasters in 
the summer season to obtain cargoes of grain and wood. In 
winter it is practically deserted, and as the bar is at the 
immediate entrance of the inlet, there is no sheltered an¬ 
chorage while waiting for a tide. The channel is about in 


32 


PINEIRA POINT. 


Tides. 

Ooast 


the middle of the bar, but, as the sands are shifting, no 
directions can be given for entering. The fishermen act as 
l)ilots when desired. 

The village of Foz, containing about 200 inhabitants, is 
on the western shore, and the Masma river empties at the 
head of the inlet. 

It is high water, full, and change at 3\ Springs rise 11 
feet. 

From Prado t)oiut, the eastern limit of Foz inlet, the 
coast, backed by high land, runs E. J N. nearly, for 9 miles, 
to Eivadeo. The most projecting points are Promoutorio 
and Gorbeira, both considerably prolonged under water by 
reefs. Between them are several small bends, with little 
beaches and scattered rocks, the cleanest beaches being one 
at point Prado, and one near Promoutorio point. The 
Portelas islets lie close off the latter. 

Beyond Gorbeira point is point Piiieira, and between 
them is a little port, named Eiulo, with a little beach and a 
fishing-village at its bead. It is completely open to on-shore 
winds. 

Piiieira point is projecting, and is surrounded by sunken 
rocks, called the Longas. Beyond them the ground is foul, 
and they should be given a berth of 3 miles, in a heavy 
sea. Piiieira point, so called from the village of the same 
name near it, is followed by a broken coast, fronted by reefs 
and foul ground, extending to Pancha islet, at the western 
point of entrance to Eivadeo .inlet. 


CHAPTER II. 

FROM RIVADEO INLET TO CAPE PENAS. 

Variation in 1876.—Rivadeo Inlet, 20° 55' westerly; Cape Penas, 19° 45^ 

westerly. 

PciDclia islet, which has a light-tower on its summit, is Panchaislet, 
about 275 yards iu length NW. and SE.j is steep on all 
sides, and its summit is a plain 54 feet ^bove sea-level. It 
is separated from the W. point of entrance to Kivadeo inlet 
by a passage 55 yards wide, which is almost dry at low 
water. A reef extends from the islet to the NW., and a 
berth of 2 miles should be given it in fine weather, and 3 or 
4 miles with a heavy sea. 

There is a tower on the keeper’s dwelling, 29 feet high, on 
the summit of Pancha islet, from which there is displayed, 
at an elevation of 79 feet above the level of the sea, di, fixed 
icliite light, visible 9 miles in clear weather. 

Pancha islet and Cruz point lying nearly E. and W., form lii^adeo inlet, 
the limits of the entrance to Eivadeo or Eibadeo inlet, a 
little more than half a mile across. This beautiful inlet, 
which not long ago was an excellent port from the facility 
of taking it, is, at the present time, so much obstructed by 
sand-banks as to make it difficult to enter with a large ves¬ 
sel and scant winds. Oarabela bank, constantly advancing 
toward Carrayas ledge, narrows the channel, so that extreme 
caution is necessary in working through, and within, much 
of the best sheltered portion of the port is dry at low w ater. 

Carrayas ledge, 5 cables SE. J E. from Pancha islet, is a 
dangerous ledge of rocks lying just of Castrelius point, 
most of them awash at low water, with 5 fathoms water 
close outside. 

About 2 cables S. of Castrelius point is the castle of San 
Damian on a high, steep point j and a little offshore of it 
is Carballo rock, 55 yards from the most i^rojecting point of 
land, a danger that only uncovers at low water. A little 
farther K., but only 20 yards from the shore, is another 
rock, named the Viga. 

3 N C 


34 


CASTROPOL. 


Rivadeo. Soutli of the castle of San Damian, a steep, broken shore 

trends S. J W. for a short distance, to the town of Eivadeo, 
which takes its name from the river Eo, which empties at 
the head of the inlet. The town, containing about 3,000 
inhabitants, is built on the level ground at the brow of the 
cliffs overlooking the port; vessels moor abreast the cliffs 
and off the coves of Escabana, Porcillan, and Figueirua, 
where there are small beaches and moles for discharging. 
This port, more mercantile than agricultural in character, 
owns 69 vessels of all sizes, and numerous fishing boats, 
with a gross tonnage of 5,946 tons. 

About 4 cables within the town there is a little bay, easily 
convertible into a good harbor, where there are a few store¬ 
houses and other buildings, called Yilla-vieja. Vessels of 
all classes are built here, and the bay is sometimes used as 
a careening place. The bottom is mud. 

Castropoi. South of Villa-vieja the inlet is narrow, and almost com¬ 
pletely obstructed by the sands. Opposite it, on the east¬ 
ern shore, is the town of Castropoi, on the i)oiut of the 
same name, and in the province of Oviedo. Population 
about 800. The town of Vega and the village of Abres, of 
some little commercial importance, are farther within the 
inlet, and can only be reached at high water by vessels. 

From Castropoi point the eastern shore bends to the E. 
to form the spacious bay of Figueras, 1 mile deep, at the 
head of which is the dock-yard of Liiieira. In this bay 
most of the ship building and careening is carried on, on 
account of the excellent shelter and commodious port, and 
because of the proximity to the store houses and work¬ 
shops. The bay dries at low water except in some chan¬ 
nels. The village of Figueras is at the NE. i)art of the 
bay, and E. of Kivadeo. It is built in the form of an am- 
Xfiiitheater, and is the residence of the most experienced 
pilots, who look out from the Atalaya tower, 159 feet above 
the sea, on Boy point, NW. of the village. 

Carabeia bank, point is the northern limit of Figueras bay j 150 

yards farther N. is Pasado point, the promontory between 
the two narrowing the entrance to the inlet to 3 cables. 
From this x)romontory Carabeia bank extends E. by W. 
toward Carrayas rocks, on the other shore, and is daily in¬ 
creasing, and threatens to close the entrance to the port; 


/ 


. Au.lwTXjfS.Hoinaii S Hmdeo. PmirkiP.Tj^Jit. S.b5”WlK S^ariiles 



MoimH^o- S. 23°W. from. 3 nules offSiiore 



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Jfondieo 


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Topia. 


OiTio Ae Tapia Tslet. 






















































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:;»'U .shore 

At 

t>at 3,000 

of the 


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4 nt 

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.wirpoX 


VflHra&r. ■.:^-^^ .... 


t. 3 e.vu;^ 
hy 

>Mi •loii't >tt- 1 

rj 


■» ^ 

■ 


fi' 






..,>' -^‘4, 

^ ■ 'fr •■, 'A 











BANKS—SOUNDINGS. 


it has 6 to 14 feet of water on it at low tide, and at present 
the channel for large vessels between it and the rocks is 
scarcely 100 yards across. ^ 

Nearly a mile N. f E. of Pasado point is point Cruz, the Amaobay 
coast between forming Arnao or Yam bay, cables deep 
to the eastward, with good anchorage in G and 7 fathoms 
over a clean sandy bottom. Vessels anchor here in moder¬ 
ate weather to await the tide for entering, or when ready 
for sea. 

Cruz t)oint, the eastern limit of the entrance to Eivadeo Cruz point 
inlet, is the extremity of an arm of land terminating in 
broken cliffs and detached rocks, with a reef extending off 
some distance in a northerly direction. About 3 cables 
NE. of Cruz point is Rumeles point, with a reef of the 
same name extending about 2 cables NNW. The ground 
in the vicinity of both points is foul. 

A rocky ledge, named the Arredo bank, lies N. 62® 25' Arredobank 
W. from Cruz point, and N. Gio 57' E. from Pancha islet. 

The Spanish sailing-directions give the least water on it as 

7 fathoms at low springs, and say it is only dangerous in 
heavy weather. British Admiralty chart No. 78, {plan^) 
however, shows one sounding of fathoms on the eastern 
side of the bank. 

Panchorro bank is a dangerous rock lying N. 78^ 10' 
of Cruz point, and 1 cable N; 25^ 35' E. of Pancha islet. 

There are scarcely 2 fathoms water over it at low spring- 
tides, and the sea always breaks on it. This ledge and the 
Carrayhs rocks are the greatest dangers in entering the 
port. 

The approach to the inlet is clear of danger. There are Soundings 
IG and 17 fathoms within half a mile of the entrance to the 
inlet, 10 and 12 fathoms between the banks above described, 

8 fathoms between Pancha islet and Cruz point, and 4J 
fathoms by the bar at the entrance to the port. Beyond 
this iioint the greatest depth is in the channel near the 
western shore. The larger vessels, when moored near the 
shore, are aground at low water. The bottom in and near 
the inlet is of sand, with occasional patches of rock near 
the entrance. 

The time of high water, full and change, is 3 ’“5 springs Tides, 
rise ordinarily 13 feet, with an increase of 2 or 3 feet with 


36 


PILOTS—DIRECTIONS. 


Resources. 


Pilots. 


Directions. 


SW. and NW. winds and a corresponding decrease with NE. 
and SE. winds. The mean velocity of the stream is about 
• 3 knots. 

The best and most plentiful supply of water is at Cas- 
tropol. It is obtained from a covered fountain, where a 
boat may load in a very short time, but it can only be reached 
tat high water. Abundance of good provisions may be ob¬ 
tained at Eivadeo at reasonable rates. Kepairs to either 
hull or rigging may be effectively undertaken, as material 
and navy-stores are plentiful and of good quality. 

The pilot-service is well organized, and the pilot-boats 
assist in mooring and unmooring. Pilot-fees, between March 
and September, are 45 reals for the pilot and 40 for the 
boat, in entering; 35 reals for the pilot and 30 for the boat 
in leaving the port. For the rest of the year these sums 
are, respectively, GO, 48, 48 and 40 reals. The boat should 
carry eight men and a cockswain. If more boats are em¬ 
ployed they are similarly paid. Ho vessel should enter 
without a pilot unless locally familiar. 

The channel into Eivadeo lying H. and S., and being very 
narrow, makes it difficult to take with winds from the S. 
It often happens that a vessel nearing the inlet with a NW. 
wind wull meet a breeze blowing out at the entrance. To 
enter under such circumstances requires a rising tide and 
great promptness and circumsi)ection in tacking, for the 
tide sets directly on to Carabela bank, which breaks with 
any sea, and should a vessel miss stays when near it, there 
is no room to anchor, and the loss of the ship is inevitable. 

Coming from the westward with southwesterly winds, the 
Farallones of San Cipriano should be made; thence run 
along the coast at a distance of 3 or 4 miles, if there is any 
sea, until abreast of point San Miguel, when near the coast 
to 2 miles with smooth water, or 3 miles with much sea, 
until clear of the Longas off Piheira point, when endeavor 
to make out tbechapel of Santa Cruz, a white, quadrangular 
building, on a hillock on the eastern slope of mount Mon- 
digo, SW. J S. from the entrance. Keep this chapel in sight 
above the cliffs of the coast until abreast Pancha islet, wheu 
head for the middle of Arnao bay until Cabanela or Des- 
honra-Bueuos point, the most projecting point E. of Eiva¬ 
deo, is on with the middle of the saddle formed by two 


DIRECTIONS. 


37 


elevations of a mountain in the interior, called Cotos de Bal¬ 
boa. Tills bearing, S. by W., leads through the channel to 
the anchorage inside the castle of San Damian, and off the 
Escabana if the vessel draws 15 or 17 feet, or farther in and 
off the Figueirua if she draws 11 to 13 feet. At high water 
the western shore may be kept aboard after the Carrayas 
rocks are passed, giving it a berth of CO yards, however, to . 
clear the Oarballo and other rocks. If the tide is low the 
shore about Porcillan must not be approached within IJ ca¬ 
bles, on account of a bank that makes out. 

Coming from the E. with NE. winds, the ligbt-house on 
Tapia islet is a good mark to make. Thence keep along 
the coast at a distance of 2 miles to avoid outlying dangers, 
and enter the inlet between Cruz point and Arredo bank if 
the water is smooth, or between this latter and Panchorro 
bank, which is preferable with free winds. Then head for 
the middle of Arnao bay, and proceed as above directed. 

If southerly winds are met at the entrance, a vessel 
should lay off-and-on or anchor in Arnao bay until the tide 
is running in strongly. A slow-working ship should club 
or tow through the channel, and not ^attempt to work in. 
Boats for towing are readily obtained. 

With heavy N. and N\V. gales, which are sometimes so 
severe as to close the port, a heavy sea sets upon the coast, 
and almost,the whole space between the entrance points is 
covered with breakers, and it is well for vessels bound to 
Eivadeo when coming from the W. with bad or doubtful 
weather to make Barquero inlet, and remain there until the 
weather is clear. NE. winds do not send in so much sea, 
and with them the entrance is easy. 

In approaching the inlet from seaward, mount Mondigo, 
1,942 feet high, makes an excellent mark, and heading for 
its eastern slope leads direct to the port. The conical figure 
of this mountain, its isolated position, and the jagged rocks 
that crown its summit, make it impossible to mistake, and 
as it is neared, Tapia islet light, the Santa Cruz chapel, the 
pilot tower on I^oj" point, the towns, and, finally, the light¬ 
house on Pancha islet will be successively seen. 

The best time for leaving the port is with a rising tide, 
and when it is at least two-thirds full. There is generally 
a land-breeze in the morning. 


38 


CAPE SAN SEBASTIAN. 


Vessels moor head and stern, with their heads to the 
southward to guard against the S. wind, which blows with 
great violence. 

Province of The rivcr Eo separates the province of Lugo on the west 
from that of Oviedo on the east, the latter being more gen¬ 
erally known as the province or luincipality of Asturias. 
This has a sea-coast of about 180 miles with a general W. 
and E. direction, much broken and without a single consid¬ 
erable bay or good harbor for large vessels. It is fronted 
by reefs, islets, and rocks, which, although extending but 
a short distance off the coast, render it a very dangerous 
lee-shore with northerly winds and any sea. The coast all 
along is high, level, and iirecipitous, rising inland to the 
spurs of the Pyrenean range. The northerly winds of win¬ 
ter roll in a heav}^ sea and close the ports, and the S. winds 
blow with such fierce gusts that they are almost equally 
dangerous. The ITE. winds of summer bring fine weather. 

Castro bank. Point Kumcles, which follows Cruz point, is low, broken, 
and projecting, with a dangerous reef jutting to the north¬ 
ward. About 20 yards outside these points are the Canu- 
cos rocks, dry at low water, with a boat-channel between 
them and the shore. The next point to the eastward is Ru- 
bia, steep, and of moderate height, with some islets close 
off it 5 and between 1 and 2 miles N. from it is Castro bank, 
with 11 to 13 fathoms water over it, and 25 to 30 fathoriis 
on all sides. This bank only breaks with the heaviest seas, 
and is then an indication that Rivadeo inlet is closed. 

Santa Gadia Point Santa Gadia, which follows Rubia point, has the 
two Pantorgas islets off its northern extremity, and a short 
distance outside of them there are two rocks that dry at 
low water. Between Rivadeo and these islets the coast is 
steep, broken, and almost inaccessible except at the beach 
of Pena-rouda, near the village of Santa Gadia. This beach 
is clean, and has in its center a round rock, from which it 
takes its name. 

asS Beyond Peha-ronda beach is a small bay with a foul, 

rocky beach at its head, limited on the E. by point Garlougo. 
Thence a steep, rocky shore continues to cape San Sebas¬ 
tian,! miles eastward from Rurneles point. This cape or 
promontory has the chapel of the same name on its sum¬ 
mit, and the village of Tapia is built on the slope of the 


r.'ipi 


''I’*'* TapiaLioht, S.62W. Dist.&nuls 


M*. Momligo. 




”22. 



Orrio de Tapia. 



M\Jarrio. Ortinaern (lane. 
































































/ 









tvl'-t'- 































































TAriA ISLET LIGHT. 


39 


cape and the shores of a little cov^e oa its western side, 
sheltered from winds from the N., that forms a port for the 
small craft of the vicinity. 

Off the northern part of the cape is Tapia islet, 1G5 Tapia islet, 
yards long, 100 yards wide, and 62 feet high, with a light- 
tower on its summit. It lies only about 50 yards from the 
cape, with which it is connected by a reef that uncovers at 
low tide. 

Orrio de Tapia islet lies within 100 yards IN’, of Tapia, Omo de Tapia, 
and is connected with it by a reef that is almost awash at 
low water. The Orrio de Tapia is round, conical, and low, 
and dangerous reefs extend a long distance from it to NNE., 
that chiefly dry at low water, and always show two rocks, 
that from a distance look like boats, named the Porcego- 
sas. There is deep water close outside the reefs, and a ves¬ 
sel may pass a mile northward of them without risk. 

On the summit of Tapia islet, and attached to the keeper’s 35 ?" 4 o»*N^.^ioig^ 
dwelling, there is an octagonal granite tower with white 
dome, from which is displayed, at an elevation of 91 feet 
above sea-level, ^ fixed white light with afiash every two min¬ 
utes^ and visible 15 miles in clear weather. The light-tower 
is 32 feet high, and the illuminated arc cuts those of the 
lights of point Estaca and cape Busto, E. and W. of it. 

From Tapia islet the coast is rather higher, ranging Porciabay. 
between 100 and 150 feet, and the land is nearly level for 
2 or 3 miles inland, when it begins to rise until it forms the 
lofty ranges that characterize the province of Asturias. 

The sea-coast is of steep cliffs broken occasionally to form 
small bays in some of which there are beaches. Between 
Tapia islet and Forcada point, the next eastward, the coast 
bends to the S., forming Figueras bay, in which there is a 
foul, rocky beach. 

East of Forcada point the coast again bends to the south¬ 
ward and forms a deep bay, named Porcia. At its head the 
river Porcia runs through the middle of a beach. Small 
craft and coasters visit this river to load with wood and 
grain; but they have to take advantage of high tide in 
doing so, as the whole bed, except in a little channel, is dry 
at low water. To enter the river it is necessary to approach 
closely two large and connected islets, leaving them on the 
port hand in taking the bar. All the shores of the bay are 


40 


PORT VIAVELES. 


Cape Blanco. 

Port Viaveles. 


Tides. 

r esources. 

Coast. 


steep 5 its eastern limit is a high, rugged, whitish head¬ 
land, called the Olga Mourina, or the Atalaya, and outside 
this is an islet, named Oorbero. 

The Atalaya de Porcia is followed by a stretch of coast, 
rocky, steep, and whitish in appearance, to cape Blanco, so 
called from the white color of its western face. From a 
height of about 125 feet it slopes downward to the sea and 
terminates in a rocky point distant a little more than 4 
miles from the Orrio de Tapia. 

About half a mile S. of cape Blanco is the mouth of the 
little port of Viaveles, difficult to make out at any distance 
on account of its narrow entrance, which is hardly 40 yards 
across at low water. This channel leads in for about 100 
yards to a pool 50 yards across, and from this a channel or 
cut 18 or 20 yards wide runs in for 1 cable to the SW. At 
low water even the smallest vessels lie aground, and with 
on-shore winds a bad swell rolls in that is very severe on 
the craft inside as the tide is falling. The importance of 
Viaveles is due to the dock-yard, where many vessels have 
been built of late years; one of them was of 640 tons bur¬ 
den, but was got out with much difficulty. In heavy seas 
the mouth of the port is closed, breakers extending for some 
distance outside it. In coming from the W. the port is 
reached by keeping the land aboard after rounding cape 
Blanco, and in coming from the E. it may be recognized by 
mount Jarrio and the church of Caridad, S. of the port and 
1 mile inland. The town of Viaveles is at the head of the 
port and only the few houses above the cliffs opposite the 
entrance can be seen from outside. 

It is high water, full and change, at Viaveles at 3^^; 
springs rise 13 feet. 

Water is easily obtained from the spring in the inner 
basin, that supplies the town. Provisions are sc irce, but 
may be brought from Caridad or Porcia. 

From Viaveles the coast trends eastward 5 miles, to capo 
San Agustin, forming several breaks and bays in this ex¬ 
tent, with a bold shore fronted by rocks. At 1 mile east¬ 
ward from Viaveles is the bay of Pormenande, through the 
opening of which maybe seen the town of Caridad and the 
church by a group of poplar trees. The shore is from 90 to 
140 feet in height, rising 3 miles inland, to high mountains^ 


CAPE SAN AUGUSTIN. 


41 


More thau 1 mile outside of Viaveles there are rocky banks 
in 11 to 14 fathoms water, where the sea breaks when there 
is much swell. Farther out there are other banks with more 
or less water over them, one of them, named the Oabezo, 
being miles NNE. of the entrance to port Yiaveles* 

There are 23 fathoms on the Cabezo, but the sea runs high 
upon it, and it would be dangerous to attempt to pass over 
it in bad weather. Soundings around the bank are from 28 
to 37 fathoms. 

Torbas bay is the next eastward of the bay of Porme- 
nande; it is completely open to NNW., and is surrounded 
by cliffs 5 but at its head there is a small pebble beach, and 
coasters find shelter in it during the NE. winds of the sum¬ 
mer. The eastern limit of the bay is point Acebros, pro¬ 
longed by a reef of the same name that dries at low waters 
and a little farther E. is point Lamosas, or Engararnada* 

Off the northeastern part of the latter are the Gavieros 
islets, the largest one close to the shore, and the outside one 
sufficiently distant to permit coasters to pass inside of it in 
fair weather. More tban 100 yards NW. by 1:7. from the 
outer Gaviero is the Lamosas reef, which is partly dry at 
low water. It always breaks, and in bad weather the break¬ 
ers extend a considerable distance. Coasters can pass be¬ 
tween it and the outer Gaviero in fine weather, in 9 to 11 
fathoms water. The reef lies NW. and SE. 

Beyond the Gavieros the coast, inaccessible and fronted 
by rocks, bends southward to form the cove of Ortiguera* 

The shores are of high cliff’s, and the cove, narrowing to the 
head, is only used by fishing-boats that haul up on a small 
pebble beach. The village of Ortiguera is scattered along 
the craggy declivities of the shores, and a brook empties at 
the head of the cove. 

The eastern point of entrance to Ortiguera cove, and the cape 
western point of entrance to ISfdvia inlet, is cape San 
Agustin, 111 feet high, and steep both to E. and W. On its 
summit, and about 100 yards from the extremity of the 
point, is the chapel of San Agustin, a good mark for the 
cape. 

A small beach of black sand, named Amelia, is on the 
eastern side of the cape, and vessels anchor off’it in moderate 


San 


42 


NAVIA INLET. 


Kdvia inlet. 


Pilots. 


Marks. 


Coast. 


SW. and KW. winds when waiting for a favorable tide to 
enter tbe inlet. 

Half a mile ESE. of cape San Agnstin, is tbe bar of Na- 
via inlet, which is in reality only the month of the Navia 
river. This river is of great importance, as well from the 
abundance of oak timber that comes down it, as from its 
rich salmon fishery. The bar is always shifting, changing 
with every gale from seaward, so that no directions can be 
given for it, and no vessel shonld attempt to cross it with¬ 
out a pilot, whoonght first to sound the channel if the ves¬ 
sel draws 9 to 11 feet, the greatest dranght that can enter. 
It breaks constantly, and, being in the line of the coast, is 
exposed to all northerly winds; there is, moreover, a rock 
almost in mid-channel. 

Once within the bar, good shelter from all winds is found, 
and at the anchorages of Vega de Arenas and Espiu there 
are 11 to 17 feet water at low tide, so that vessels are 
always afloat; but when anchored abreast the town of 
Nfivia, they ground at low water. This town has about 800 
inhabitants, and is built along the beach on the eastern 
shore, nearly a mile from the bar, the course of the river 
between being nearly N. and S. The latter is 300 yards 
across at the bar, and is narrowed by the marshy lands in¬ 
side to 50 yards abreast the town. Beyond this point the 
river traders go about 50 miles up the stream to bring down 
timber. 

The pilots do not come from Navia, but from Ortiguera, 
where all the inhabitants are sailors and fishermen. The 
signal for a pilot is i)romptly answered, and one or more 
boats come out to tow, or render assistance should the ves¬ 
sel ground. Water may be obtained from the riv^er at low 
tide. 

Lying between the lights of Tapia and Cape Busto, Navia 
inlet is easily recognized by either of these lights, or by the 
chapel on cape San Agustin. From seaward the best 
mark is mount Jarrio, 1,056 feet high, on the western shore, 
and 2 short miles SSW.f W. from cape San Agustin. 

Point Campel, the eastern point of entrance to Navia 
inlet, is low at its extremity, but rises rapidly to a hill of 
the same name. Just E. of it is the low point of Hocico de 
fuera, projecting to the northward, and dangerous, on ac- 


PORT VEGA. 


43 


count of a sunken rock, with 2 fathoms water on it, lying 200 
yards outside of it and breaking with the least sea. Small 
craft pass inside this rock in fair weather. 

After the latter point, the coast remains high and regu¬ 
lar, rising to hills and mountainous land at 2 and 3 miles 
inland. 

Point Oorbera, a short mile E. of Oampel point, is low 
and broken, with a rock a short distance outside of it. 

Farther E. is the long, steep beach of Freijulfe, of dark 
sand scattered with rocks. 

From this beach the coast continues eastward of rather 
low cliffs, with clean ground off it, to Vega islet, lying W. 
of the little port of the same name. ^ This islet lies N. and 
fcS., forming a high, round head, and reefs extend a short 
distance from it all around. A little NE. of it there is a 
rock that dries at low water, and a dark, rocky islet, named 
Corberon, is on its western side and near the coast. Inside 
these rocks there is a boat-channel, used in fine weather. 

The chapel of the Virgen de la Atalaya de Vega is 3J 
miles E. ^ S. from the chapel of San Agustin, and they 
may be easily distinguished from one another, as the former 
is built E. and W., while the latter stands K and S. It is 
on level land W. of the port of Vega, about 90 feet above 
the sea, and called the Atalaya, a name used to designate 
any elevation whence a considerable view may be obtained. 

The point terminating the Atalaya de Vega is named Bar- 
roco. 

The mouth of the port of Vega is a little E. of the chapel. Port Vega. 
The channel is extremely narrow and tortuous, leading be¬ 
tween reefs to a little port, both port and reefs drying at 
low water. The port is so small that there is only one place 
large enough for vessels to turn, and only one spot scarcely 
large enough for a single vessel to lie afloat at low water; 
but it has the advantage of having no bar, and can be en¬ 
tered when Navia cannot, so that coasters bound for the 
latter place often enter port Vega to wait for a favorable 
time. Only vessels of 7 to 9 feet draught can enter. 

The port is approached in 7J to 4 fathoms water by bring¬ 
ing the top of the roof of a square house in the eastern part 
of the port on with the middle of the parish church, which 


44 


PORT LUARCA. 


is on a plain some little distance inland. When a vessel 
nears the entrance, boats put out to pilot her in. 

The town, with about 500 inhabitants, is chiefly a fishing- 
village. A portion of it can be seen from seaward, and this 
with the chapel, the parish church, and a ruined castle on 
the east point of entrance form good marks for the port, 
an el las Camaxima or Eomauellas point is about IJ miles E., 
nearly, from the chapel of the Atalaya. Two blackish 
rocky islets, with a boat channel between them, lie NNE. of 
the point; and a third, larger than the others, is nearer the 
coast. They are called the Rornanellas, and may be passed 
at a short distance, as the ground is clean around them. 

Coast. A steei), broken shore follows the Rornanellas rocks to 

Cuerno point, projecting, and of reddish crags, one of which 
forms a curve to the S. in the form of a horn. West of it 
there is a large fissure, where the Barrayo river falls into 
the sea, but it has a bar that hardly allows even the fishing- 
boats to enter at high water. Point Cuerno is clear and 
safe, and E. of it the coast forms a bight with a clean 
beach, off which the fishermen and coasters find shelter 
from SW. winds. A little farther E. is another beach, and 
then a high, steep coast follows to point Mugeres, low, 
rocky, and foul, the western limit of Liiarca bay. From 
this point reefs set off*, called the Sierras, and when the sea 
breaks on them it breaks also on the bar of the port. A 
bertli of 1 or 2 cables should be given the point in fair 
weather, and more if there is much sea on. 

PortLuarca. Luarca bay is a small bay with 3 to 7 fathoms water, 
sandy bottom with patches of rock. It lies between Mugeres 
point on the W. and Blanca peninsula on the E. j the 
clean ground is small, and vessels anchoring to await a tide 
for entering the port or going out, should only do so in 
fine weather, and must come-to near the middle of the bay, 
in 5 or G fathoms. 

The port of Luarca opens at the head of the bay, and 
after passing the bar is little more than a tortuous, narrow 
channel, kept open by the flow of the Negro river. The 
town of Luarca is built in the form of an amphitheater, the 
principal part being on the eastern side of the port. High, 
rocky cliffs follow the circle of the port, the only breaks 
being one through which the river flows and a second at 


LUARCA LIGHT. 


45 


the entrance. The center ot* the port is a bed of shingle 
that dries at low water, and the narrowness of the channel 
prevents any but small and short vessels from seeking it: 
none that draw more than 11 feet can cross the bar. 

The channel follows the eastern shore along a circular 
mole or wharf on the Blanca peninsula, and the fishermen 
act as pilots. There are no regular pilot-charges. The 
port is unsafe in on-shore gales. Population of the town 
about 2,500. Water and provisions are plentiful, and re¬ 
pairs may be effected. 

Kear the extremity of Blanca peninsula there is a square, = Lat .430 

^ ^ ’34'30"N. ; Long. 

white light-tower with yellow angles and white lantern, the 6° 32 '56'^ w. 
height of the building being 30 feet. From this there is 
displayed, at an elevation of 204 feet* above the sea, s, fixed 
iL'hite light, visible 7 miles in clear weather. 

The time of high water, full and change, at Luarca, is Tides. 

3^'; springs rise ordinarily 12 feet, with an increase of 2 
or 3 feet with strong NW. or SW. winds. 

La Moura rock, which hardly uncovers at low water, is Dangers. 

100 yards N. by W. from Blanca peninsula, and all large 
vessels should pass outside of it; for, though there are 4 
and 5 fathoms in the channel between it and the peninsula, 
there is a ledge in mid-channel with only 11 feet of water 
on it. 

Fierro rock is about 50 yards 17W. by N. from the penin¬ 
sula, and Minas rocks about 70 yards NE. J E. from it.* 

The position of Luarca is easily recognized. The best Directions, 
marks are Busto light house, 3J miles ENE. nearly, Blanca 
light-house, and the chapel of Nuestra Senora de la Blanca, 
a little S. of the light-house, with a high belfry that can be 
made out from a considerable distance. On nearing the 
port the houses of the town‘are seen, and the bed of red¬ 
dish shingle that appears to obstruct the entire port. 

It has been stated that vessels coming from the E. should 
pass outside of Moura rock. In coming fromthe W., a berth 
of 1 or 2 cables should be given Mugeres point in fair 
weather, and more if there is any sea, as there are heavy 

breakers over the reefs and foul ground. A good berth, 

• 

*B. A. Chart No. 726 and the English sailing-directions give the ele¬ 
vation of this light as 177 feet. 




46 OAPE BUSTO LIGHT. 

too, should be given the beaches of Salinas and Fuente de 
Abajo. 

Coast. Qq the eastern side of Blanca peninsula there is a small 

bay,named Reas, that almost makes the peninsulaan island. 
There is a beach at its head, but all the ground is foul. A 
short stretch of broken coast follows, a small bight in it 
being named Portezuelo, and another farther on, extending 
E. and then S., is the mouth of the river Esba or Oaneiro, 
the bar of which dries at low water. Inside the bar is the 
little port of Cueva, visited annually by a very few coasters 
to embark the timber brought down the river. The bar 
only carries about 9 feet water at high springs, and there 
is a rock near the middle of it that narrows the channel. 

CapeBusto. Thence the coast—high, steep, and of a reddish color— 
runs northward to cape Busto, that takes its name from 
the village on its summit, which is broad and level. A reef 
extends for about 100 yards WNW. from the cape, and shows 
near its extremity the Moura rock that uncovers at low 
water. A conical islet, of moderate height, named Serron, 
and locally known as Salto islet, lies EXE. of the cape, and 
is connected with it by a reef that dries at low tide. A few 
detached rocks lie close to the islet and cape, but being 
bold they may be passed at a short distance. The cape 
may be known by its level appearance, its cliffs, and the 
light-house on its summit. 

Light: Lat .430 From a white rectangular tower 34 feet high, attached to 
6° 28 '48"'w. “ the keeper’s dwelling, and at an elevation of 307 feet above 
the sea, there is displayed a fixed ivhite light, varied by a 
red flash every two minutes^ and is visible 12 miles in clear 
weather. 

Serron bank. A rocky bank known as the Serron, and with 23 to 27 
fathoms water on it, lies 4 or *5 miles XE. of cape Busto. 
There are 55 fathoms X. of the bank and 45 fathoms S. of 
it. It is only dangerous in heavy weather, when the seas 
have been seen to break on it. The marks for this bank 
are Rabion de Artedo islet, open of cape Bidio, and the 
Luares—two black rocks close together and near the coast— 
in one with a dark vertical Assure in the cliffs, named 
Fuentede las Melendreras,from the brook of that name that 
flows through it. The rocks and fissure in one bear S. 

Petonbank. Another small rocky bank, named the Peton, lies 2J mile.s. 


, Li§hl. 


, .151anca Chapel anili^ht 


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Cape Bnsto. S. be'^W; Dist.Sinaes . Approaduis toLiuh-ca. 


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CAPE BIDIO. 


47 


N. of cape Basto, and has 27 to 36 fathoms water over it, 
and 55 fathoms at a short distance all around. It is only 
dangerous in very heavy seas. 

From cape Busto the coast runs eastward, about 10 miles coast, 
to cape Bidio. In this extent there are some little bights 
and beaches where the fishermen land occasionally in good 
weather. It is generally clean and safe of approach, as the 
rocks that front it are close to the shore. The most prom¬ 
inent and the farthest out of these rocks are the Negras, so 
called from their dark color. They are low and rugged, lie 
300 or 400 yards off shore, and are the most prominent of a 
reef IJ miles SW. of cape Bidio. There is a boat-channel 
between them and the shore. 

The Agiulas de Cadavedo are rather high, pointed islets, 
lying close to the shore, just W. of a small bight of the 
same name; and the Cruces are low, black, broken rocks, 
lying near the shore, about 3 miles E. of cape Busto. All 
the rocks formed originally a portion of the ciiffs that are 
gradually broken by the constant action of the sea. 

The most important bight is the little bay of Cadavedo, 
where fishing-craft find shelter from SW. winds. All 
this coast ranges from 230 to 280 feet high, the land rising 
at 2 or 3 miles inland to the mountain ranges. 

Cape Bidio, or Vidio, is of generally the same character as cape Bidio. 
cape Busto, and of nearly the same height. A high conical 
islet, named Chouzano, lies 30 or 40 yards N. of the cape, 
with a boat-channel between; it is of whitish, laminated 
rocks, like those of the cape. At 100 yards outside the islet 
is a sunken rock, named Chouzanin, or Lozanin, the chan¬ 
nel between being only used by the fishing-boats. All the 
coast between capes Busto and Bidio may be passed at the 
distance of 1 mile, under fav^orable circumstances, in 20 to 
30 fathoms, rocky bottom. 

East of cape Bidio the coast forms the bays of San Pedro san Pedro and 
and Oteiro, or Oleiro, separated by a high, sharp headland, 
off which are rocks and detached dangers. San Pedro, the 
westernmost, is the more spacious, and has a clean beach. 

The beach of Oteiro is limited on the E. by a high, steep 
islet, named Rabion de Artedo, connected with the main¬ 
land by a short ridge of bare rocks, while another chain of 
ledges and rocks extends ^E. from it, the two giving con- 


48 


PORT CUDILLERO—LIGHT. 


siderable protection to Artedo bay from a NW. sea. Tbe 
extreme point of the rocks is called Kabion point. 

Artedo bay. A short distance SSE. of Eabion point is point Austera, 
the NW. point of entrance to Artedo bay. This bay, a 
short mile across, and half a mile deep, has a clean and ac¬ 
cessible beach, and is limited on the SE. by the foot of the 
mountain of Santa Ana, or Montares. There is good an¬ 
chorage for all classes of vessels in 8 to 10 fathoms water, 
sand, sheltered from SW. winds, and partially from those of 
the NW. quarter. A good berth for a large vessel is in 
10 fathoms off a white mark on the cliffs of the W. shore, 
about 150 yards from the shore, and with the hermitage of 
Santa Ana bearing S. J E. This roadstead is only used in 
summer, as in winter it is exposed to the sea rolling in from 
the NW. as well as to the NE. gales. To enter with any 
sea from the N W., a berth of at least 1 mile should be given 
Eabion point, as there the sea runs high, and even half 
across the mouth of the bay. There are 14 fathoms water, 
sand, at the entrance. The position of the bay is easily 
recognized by Eabion islet and by mount Santa Ana, which 
is S. of the bay, and may be known by its hermitage, white, 
and standing out boldly on the eastern slope. 

Port Cudiiiero. little port of Cudillero is IJ miles E. of Artedo bay. 

It is only a cove formed by a break in the cliffs of the coast, 
and protected on the W. by a chain of dark islets, named 
the Coliuas, extending a considerable distance N. The 
entrance, between reefs, is narrow and shoal j a mole run¬ 
ning E. and W., with a narrow entrance close to the rocks, 
is the only shelter, and is insufficient with a heavy seaj it 
dries at low water, and at the approach of bad weather the 
boats are hauled up near the houses of the village. The 
town contains about 2,000 inhabitants, chiefly fishermen. 
The boats are excellent, and the fishermen frequently go 30 
to 35 miles out to fish in 300 to 400 fathoms. The port will 
only admit small craft. 

There is a light-house on Eevallera point, the eastern 

36' 10" N.; long. ' 

60 09'03" w. point of entrance to port Cudillero. The tower, which is 

white with a green lantern, rises from the white, rectangu¬ 
lar, keeper’s dwelling, and displays, at an elevation of 98 
feet above the sea, a fixed white light, visible 10 miles in 
clear weather. 


prIvia river. 


49 


From Cudillero the coast trends to the southward of E., 
steep, regular, and clear, with a few short stretches of foul 
beach, the bottom a little distance out, being generally of 
fine sand. Most of the detached rocks li6 close to the shore, 
but a sunken rock named Beiiorio lies a little more than 
300 yards K. of Furada point; it has only 4 feet water 
over it at low tide, and to 4 fathoms between it and the 
shore, with deeper water outside. To pass clear outside 
keep Erbosa islet open N. of Deva islet, and to pass inside 
keep the light of cape Penas open S. of Deva islet. 

A little more than 3 miles E., nearly, from Cudillero 
light, and 8J miles ESE. f E. from cape Bidio, is the her¬ 
mitage of Espiritu Santo, about 190 feet above the sea and 
50 yards from .the extremity of the point of the same name. 

Point Espiritu Santo is the western point of entrance to 
the Prfivia river or inlet, into which the Nalon river emp¬ 
ties. This beautiful estuary, formerly of great importance 
from the large exports of timber brought down the Nalon, 
and the linen manufactures of Trubia, is less frequented in 
the present day, as the port of Gijon has taken much of its 
trade. It is an excellentandaccessibleharbor for vessels of 15 
feet draught, with the advantage of theiralways lying afloat 
at low tide in the well-sheltered port of San Esteban, on the 
western shore, about three-fourths of a mile within the bar. 

The bar is broad and short, and has a minimum depth of 
7 feet water over it at low springs, and 18 or 19 feet at high 
water. The only obstacle on it is Lamparon rock, about 
the size of a launch, that uncovers at low springs, and 
might be easily removed. This leaves a western channel 
35 yards wide, and an eastern channel 80 yards wide be¬ 
tween it and the edge of the banks that front the eastern 
shore; the latter is the one generally used. The bar is 
partially protected from the sea by chains of reefs and 
rocks extending N. and NNW. from Espiritu Santo point. 
The outermost of these are two, named Lladrona, about 
125 yards north from the point; inshore of them there is 
a boat channel. The bar, which is of sand, constantly 
shifts, but always keeps over on the western side toward 
the point and rocks; there is a slight increase of depth 
after a heavy freshet, and a decrease after on-shore gales,, 
but the depths given above may usually be depended upon. 

4 N c 


Coast. 


Prdvia river. 


Bar. 


50 


PORT SAN ESTEBAN. 


Port San Este¬ 
ban. 


Forno anchor¬ 
age. 


Resources. 


Tifles. 


After crossing the bar a depth of 9 to 28 feet is found in 
the channel 25 to 35 yards from the western shore until 
port San Esteban de Pravia is reached. Here the coast 
forms a bight, where the vessels are secured four abreast in 
20 to 30 feet water, good holding-ground, and well pro¬ 
tected from SW. and NW. winds by the high sierra of Es- 
piritu Santo. There is room for a great many vessels, and 
here the largest of them take their cargoes. The village of 
San Esteban is on the hill-side, and numbers about 230 in¬ 
habitants. In winter the shore-fasts are re enforced on ac¬ 
count of the freshets. 

About 800 yards SE. by S. from San Esteban is the Cas¬ 
tillo, a ruined castle, with an oblong, turreted tower, on the 
summit of a hill, S. of which are the villages of Castillo and 
Soto del Barco. Here the river turns to the W. for nearly 
a mile, forming in this distance another navigable bight, 
called Forno, where the anchorage is good and sheltered, as 
at San Esteban. Many vessels come here to load with tim¬ 
ber, but those of much draught cannot complete their cargo, 
as in going down the river it is necessary to pass over banks 
with only 3 or 4 feet water on them at low tide. At this 
anchorage there are docks for the deposit of the timber, and 
on the southern shore, between Forno and Castillo, are the 
government docks, where some of the timber has been sea¬ 
soning for years. There is little navigation of the Kalon 
above Forno, even for the smallest craft.. 

Water may be obtained at the port of San Estdban from 
a fountain close to the shore and near the ruins of the mole. 
Provisions are scarce in the vjllage, but may be obtained in 
any quantity from Muros, miles distant, where the ma¬ 
rine superintendent of the district resides. 

It is high water, full and change, on the bar of Pra\ia at 
3^S San Esteban at 3^ 15'“; springs rise 12 to 13 

feet, and neaps about 10 feet; but it is difficult to fix the 
exact rise, as there is an increase of 3 or 4 feet with NW. and 
SW. winds, and a similar decrease with winds from NE. and 
SE.; thus, with the former there are frequently 22 feet on 
the bar, and with the latter hardly 14 feet. The average 
velocity of the current over the bar is 4 knots, increasing to 
5 knots on the ebb during freshets. 


COGOLLO POINT. 


51 


The bar is only closed by very heavy seas, as the reefs of 
Lladrona, Percebosa, and Eiriballo protect it to some ex¬ 
tent ; when the sea breaks on the latter it breaks also on 
the bar. The bar should only be taken with winds from 
ESE., through N. to NW., or WNW., by a sailing-vessel. 
With the latter winds it must be crossed on the flood, for 
the wind becomes scant and squally as the entrance is ap¬ 
proached ; and on the ebb with these winds a vessel would 
run the risk of being set on to Lamparon rock. 

With fresh on-shore winds the bar may be crossed on the 
ebb, but with light ones it is well to wait for high or slack 
w'ater. 

The eastern- channel has remained substantially un¬ 
changed for some years; the mark clearing Lamparon rock 
and leading through, is the Castillo tower on with a square 
house with a balcony, that stands in a grove on a hill side, 
400 yards S. 4° E. from the Castillo; this house is known 
as the Mirador de Ponte, and is rather difficult to make out 
on account of its small size and dark color, but the bearing 
given above assists to identify it. 

Vessels of large draught should take a pilot, both for en¬ 
tering and leaving. The pilots are the fishermen residing at 
San Juan de la Arena, a village on the sands of the eastern 
shore, and they go out directly a vessel is seen approaching. 
Pilot charges 50 reals in summer and 60 in winter, either 
entering or leaving ; there is an additional charge of 40 reals 
if the vessel is bound to Porno. Boats that lend assistance 
are paid 70 reals for the first, and 60 for any more that may 
be needed. The fishing-boats are not of much use in tow¬ 
ing, as they pull but few oars. 

East of the bar of Pravia is a clean, half-mile beach 
named Quebrantes; this is followed by a short line of cliffs, 
close off which some dark rocks, called the Cuervos, always 
show. Another long beach, named Bayes, from the village 
of that name near it, follows, and terminates near point 
Cogollo. There are a few scattered rocks off the beach. 
Cogollo point projects to the NW., and forms, with Espi- 
ritu Santo point, the large bight containing the above 
beaches. A few rocks lie off' the point to the E., but they are 
bold enough to allow coasters to pass at a short distance. 

About 200 yards N. by E. J E. from Cogollo point is 


Directions. 


Cogollo point. 


Deva islet. 


52 


COAST. 


Coast. 


Deva islet, high, rugged, and surrounded by rocks, the 
largest of which lies close off the XE. part of the islet, and 
is named Altariu; other rocks, named the Borrones, lie W. of 
Deva islet, and are covered at high water. There is an 
inshore channel for coasters, but it is only used by those 
locally familiar on account of the rocks it is necessary to 
avoid in its eastern part. Deva islet is a good mark for 
Pravia inlet. 

A high, steep coast, with occasional short and foul beaches, 
trends ENE. to point Vidrias or Bayo; this point is also 
high and steep, with a rocky islet, named Moro, that covers 
at high water, off its foot. A reef of rocks named Anu- 
ales extends 1 mile ^NNE. from the point; channels are left 
between the rocks, and there are 7 fathoms water over the 
extremity of the reef, and 16 to 22 fathoms around it; sev¬ 
eral heads show at low water. The water breaks on the 
reef if there is much sea on. 

East of Vidrias point the coast bends to the southward 
to form the bay of Correal, with a beach at its head, and a 
little farther eastward is the bay of Santa Maria del Mar, 
so called from the village of the same name on the heights 
of the coast. Ladrona islet, high and rocky, is on the W. 
side of the E. point of entrance to Santa Maria del Mar bay. 

East of Vidrias point the coast is as high as before and 
rather more broken. The most considerable of the beaches 
is that of Arnao, where small craft go to load with coal from 
the mines of Arnao. The town of this name is on a height 
near the sea, and the houses and chimneys of the factories 
of Arnao can be seen in sailing along the coast, and a little 
E. of them those of the zinc-works near the shore. A rail¬ 
way now connects the mines with Aviles. 

Kequexo point, a low, rocky point, the termination of a 
high headland, is next to the eastward; and is the western 
extremity of the extensive sandy plain of Espartal or Rai- 
ces, which, from its height and whiteness, can be seen a 
considerable distance. This plain forms the western limit 
of the bar of Aviles, and its sands are so fine and shifting 
that they are easily blown about by the winds and alter the 
configuration of the plain. 

The entrance to Aviles inlet and the bar are at the ter¬ 
mination of the plain. The inlet runs in for 4 or 5 miles to 


Avilas inlet. 


DpvaTsloi 


. CirpeFenas 



Aviles Castle. (l^ Ho iiot shavnim ietdhl 



» - T'--^ - - I 

'Fra-caaD Point. Entp«nee to Aiaes Inlet. 






























































































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thvard 
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\J i '.i'i 







AVIL]^S INLET—LIGHT. 


53 


the south, but the bar and entrance are E. and W., so they 
may be taken with NW. winds, the cross-winds of the coast; 
when these are strong enough to raise much sea, however, 
the bar is closed, and a vessel caught in this bight of the 
coast is in a very dangerous position, as it is difficult to work 
to windward. As the bar is narrow, it may be attempted 
in such a case when the tide serves, running the risk of 
being struck by the sea. 

Avilas inlet is so obstructed by shifting sands that only 
vessels of about.7 feet draught can be taken to Avilas, 3 miles 
within the bar, and the channel should first be buoyed, for 
there are many blind channels, and the only open one is 
very variable. At low water the banks uncover beyond 
San Juan, and near Aviles the river may be crossed dry¬ 
footed. The deepest water is near San Juan, a collection of 
houses on the eastern shore three-fourths of a mile within the 
bar; here there is a hole, with 9 feet at low water, where small 
vessels may lie afloat. Vessels lie aground alongside the 
mole at Aviles on a mud bottom ; but in taking the ground 
in any other part of the river, take care that the vessePs 
head is placed to the stream. There is a project to make a 
canal to the town. 

The bar extends from the northern extremity of the plain Bar. 
of Espartal to the point on which stands the castle of Avilas. 

Vessels waiting for a tide to enter anchor at the Bogariza 
anchorage off the cliffs between Castillo and Forcada 
points, in 7 to 9 fathoms water, sand, and sheltered from 
winds from NE. to SE. through E. This position is about 
200 yards from the coast and off a deep break in the cliffs, 
called Covallonga. This anchorage should only be taken 
in moderate weather, and to await one tide. 

It is high water, full and change, on the bar of Aviles at Tides. 

3^, and at the town one hour later; ordinary springs rise 
12 feet, with an increase of about 2 feet with NW. and SW. 
winds, and a corresponding .decrease with KE. and SE. 
winds. The river is not subject to freshets, and the stream 
never runs more than 4 miles an hour. Opposite the town 
the ebb runs 8J and the flood 4 hours. 

On Castillo point, the N. point of entrance to Aviles 
let, there is a light-yellow octagonal tower with green Ian-5° 56' 26 " w. 
tern, attached to the keeper’s dwelling, where there is dis- 


54 


AVILES. 


Avilas. 


Besourcea' 


Directions,, 


played, at an elevation of 130 feet above the sea, a fixed 
white light, visible 10 miles in clear weather. 

Avilas, on the western shore of the inlet, 3 miles within 
the bar, has tolerably regular, well-lighted, paved, and 
drained streets ; several squares ; an elegant guildhall built 
on 13 arches, and having a quadrangular tower; several 
churches, a hospital, and other public buildings; with nu¬ 
merous i)ublic and private fountains. The manufactures 
are copper vessels, lime, earthen ware, glass, linen, dam¬ 
ask, cambric, and drills ; and bleaching is carried on. The 
commerce consists chiefly in the export of copper vessels, 
earthen ware, and a considerable quantity of coals. Popu¬ 
lation about 5,000. 

Provisions and water may be obtained in abundance from 
the town, where there are also good facilities for repairs. 
The terminus of the railway from the Arnao mines is at a 
mole opposite the village of San Juan. 

The port of Aviles, open to winds from SW. to NW., is 
available for vessels drawing 12 feet water, at either spring 
or neap tides. Vessels can enter under steam or with fair 
wind (from SW. to NW.) under sail. 

Steam-vessels can put into Aviles, even at ebb-tide, if the 
sea is smooth. The current from the cliffs on the southern 
shore runs across with considerable strength to point Gayo, 
as far as the bar. Having crossed it, keep close to the land 
on the northern side, and head for the Eoyal Company’s 
wharf or the anchorage of San Juan. 

If obliged to put in on account of bad weather, let go the 
starboard anchor when a little to the eastward of the Eoyal 
Company’s wharf. The bottom is fine sand, and the posi¬ 
tion one at which the vessel can ride easily. If the vessel 
is to keep on to Aviles, keep on along the heights for about 
3 miles to reach the public wharves. 

At springs, vessels drawing 15 feet can reach the San 
Juan anchorage, and those drawing 12 feet can reach the 
public wharves. 

The inlet is about the middle of the bight, 20 miles across, 
between Deva islet and cape Peiias, and called Aviles bay. 
This bay is dangerous in EW. gales, as the sea then breaks 
heavily over the foul ground. In case of being embayed, 
however, the only resource is to take the bar, which is, for- 


DANGERS—CURRENTS. 


55 


tunately, short, and to run the risk of being struck by the 
sea. 

The Anuales reef, setting out from Viclrias point, is 
one of the most dcingerous, but as,it breaks with little sea 
it is well marked in position. An equally dangerous shoal, 
named the Peton, a rocky head with 5 fathoms water on it, 
is ENE. of the latter and breaks w hen there is much sea ; 
from the rock the chapel of Espiritu Santo, in Pravia inlet, 
is on w ith the inshore slope of Deva islet, and the store¬ 
house of San Juan (a white house farthest S. in Avilf^s in¬ 
let) is a little open of Aviles Castle point; a vessel ap¬ 
proaching from the westward should therefore keep the 
store house on with the point until the liue of the Deva 
on with the chapel is passed. 

Aguin bank, with 8 to 9 fathoms water, extends some 
distance w^estwmrd from Forcada point, inclining toward 
the above rocks, so that all these are but the summits of a 
rocky bed having unequal depths of 15 to 20 fathoms. 

There is an almost constant NE. current in Aviles bay, 
caused by the waters from Pravia inlet setting ENE. along 
the coast, and the opposing westerly current off cape 
Penas. 

The current over the bar leaves the deepest water close 
to the point of the castle, and it is necessary to approach 
the point almost to the rocks. The only danger after cross¬ 
ing is the Aranoii rock, marked by a buoy, one-fourth of 
a mile within the entrance. 

The boatmen of the port act as pilots, and go out when a 
vessel is seen in the ofSng. Pilot-charges for vessels of 50 to 
150 tons are 40 reals in summer and 50 in winter j for larger 
vessels 50 and 60 reals. 

The round tower of the castle is an excellent mark for 
the entrance, and cannot be mistaken for any other object 
along this part of the coast. 

Point Forcada, bold, rocky, and projecting to theNW., is 
IJ cables NVV. ^ W. from Aviles castle, and between them is 
the remarkable break or cove named Covallonga, before 
mentiohed. It is about 100 yards deep, and 12 or 13 yards 
across, with vertical walls of cliffs, the only accessible land¬ 
ing being at its head. It is open to the SVV., and might be 
used in landing the crew^ of a vessel necessarily abandoned 


Dangers. 


Currents. 


Pilots. 


Coast. 


56 


COAST—CAPE PENAS. 


Cape Peuas. 


in tlie bay. Beyond Forcada point the coast trends E. and 
N. to Home point, forming Chaon bay, bounded by an exten¬ 
sive beach interspered with rocks. Thence a rocky and 
sinuous coast runs northward to cape Negro or Cornorio, 
a little more than 2 miles NE. f N. from Forcada point. The 
cape is high, steep, and, like cape Peiias, at its foot there 
are a few rocks that dry at low water and a shoal of small 
extent, but it may be passed safely at a distance of half a 
mile. 

From cape Negro a steep coast trends eastward to 
Llampero point, forming a bight. The point is low and 
rocky, with an islet and some rocks at its foot, and the 
coast is bold and steep-to. Beyond Llampero point is a 
port of the same name, protected in some degree from the 
sea by the point and some reefs. The fishing-boats of 
Luanco and Candas lie here sheltered from the NW. winds, 
and those of Aviles take this anchorage when they cannot 
cross the bar. There is a small shingle beach at the head 
of the port, where the boats haul up. 

Eastward of port Llampero and 100 yards off the termina¬ 
tion of a long beach is Bermea islet, rocky, of moderate 
height, and reddish color. There is a clear channel of 7 
fathoms water between it and the shore. Berdicio beach, 
which commences abreast the islet, extends eastward and 
northward to Areas or Batin point,.low, craggy, and inac¬ 
cessible. The bay thus formed is clean and navigable by 
the lead, and coasters use it as an anchorage in winds from 
NE. to SE. The usual anchorage is in 14 fathoms water, fine 
sand, with Gaviera islet off cape Penas showing through 
the Erbosa channel, whence vessels can make sail and clear 
the points. The bay is dangerous in NW. winds. Beyond 
point Areas is another small bight, having a little shingle 
beach in itj the rest of it is foul. The northern limit of this 
bight is a pinnacle rock named Agudo de Sabin or Peiias, 
lying just off the western part of cape Penas, whence it 
may be visited on foot; on its NW. side there is a large, 
deep cave, which from a distance looks like a chapel, and 
is called by the fishermen the Oapilla or Oanalon del Sabin. 

The north face of the promontory of cape Penas extends 
1 mile E. by N. from the Agudo de Penas; it is 340 feet 
high, and presents three rugged, precipitous points. This 


CAPE PENAS LIGHT. 


57 


formidable stretch of coast is called Pedregal by the 
natives, and the name of cape Peiias is given to the eastern¬ 
most point, off which isGaviera islet, with a boat-channel 
inside it. 

A white, circular light-tower 33 feet high, with a keeper’s 
dwelling on its northern side, stands on the first plane snr-^° 
face of cape Penas, a short distance from the edge of the 
cliffs; from this tower there is displayed, at an elevation of 
340 feet above the sea, a icMte light, revolving every half-min¬ 
ute, and visible 21 miles in clear weather. 

At 150 yards IS". 5*^ W. from the Agudo de Peiias, is Er- ^rbosaisie. 
bosa isle, rocky, of moderate height, steep to the NW., 
sloping rapidly to the SW., and one of the chief of the 
many islets and rocks surrounding the cape; the summit of 
the island is covered with vegetation, and on its SW. side 
there is a naturiil cavern or arch, called Yen tana de la Erbosa, 
through which boats pass in fair weather. The channel in¬ 
shore of the island is 7 fathoms deep, but full of rocks, be¬ 
tween which coasters, locally familiar, thread their way; 
this passage can only be attempted in the best weather, as 
with any sea the channel breaks all across. 

A conical rocky inlet, named the Bravo, lies 50 yards 
NNE. J E. from Erbosa, and a similar one, named the Mo- 
nista, a wshort distance NN W. of the same island. To the west 
are numerous minor rocks, five of which, the Corberas, al¬ 
ways show. There are also three sunken rocks, named the 
Conos, the most dangerous of which, l^oroeste, (the north, 
wester,) lies about half a mile NW. of the Bravo, and has less 
than 4 fathoms on it at low water, but in fine weather its posi¬ 
tion is shown by the ripple over it, and in bad weather by 
the breakers. The other two lie within a little more than 50 
yards NE. of the Bravo. In the channel between the Xo- 
roeste and the Bravo there are 20 fathoms water, and be¬ 
tween the Bravo and the others, 8 or 9 fathoms. Between 
the Bravo and Erbosa is another rock, named the Molino, 
that shows at low water. 

Several sharp, rocky heads extend in a NE. J N. direction Merenjiaivarez 
from cape Penas. A chain of reefs, named the Merendal- 
varez, with but little water over them at high tide, extends 
northward from Gaviera islet in line with the cape, and ter¬ 
minates in a rocky head, named Romanella, that bears N. 


58 


SOMOSLLUNGO BANK. 


810 E. from the center of Erbosa isle. The Romanella un¬ 
covers at low water, and between it and the reefs there is a 
narrow channel used occasionally by coasters, and between 
the reefs there are boat-channels. The Itomauella is dan¬ 
gerous at night in fair weather, but it shows when there is 
any sea. 

^SomosiiuDgo Somosllungo bank is 3J miles from Gaviera islet, and 
bears NE. by E. from the light-tower on the cape; it is the 
summit of a submarine peak, and is covered with 13 to. IG 
fathoms water, the lead falling almost immediately to 30, 
40, and 45 fathoms in a direction principally NE., on which 
side the bank appears to be nearly vertical; toward the land 
the bottom seems to be more inclined, there being 30 fath¬ 
oms near the bank, 23 fathoms about in mid-channel, and 
16 fathoms near the Mereudalvarez. The sea breaks very 
heavily on it in bad weather, and at such a* time it should 
be given a wide berth : the sea is generally heavier oft* Cape 
Penas than off the rest of the coast. From the least water 
on the bank the Agudo del Penas is on with Deva islet, 
and the western peak of mount Peral, or Ventoso, is on 
with the field of Narvata. This hill, about 5 miles SSW. of 
Aviles, is known by its three peaks, the westernmost being 
the highest, and the one farthest east the lowest and most 
pointed. The field of Narvata is a plain, terminating in a 
cliff that forms the southern limit to Llumeres ba^^, and a 
ruined castle is seen on it. 

Winds. Contrary winds are frequently found in the vicinity of 

cape Penas; a vessel will sometifiies make the cape with a 
strong NE. or E. wind, and find the contrary near the land, 
and so when approaching with a W. or S W. wind. In sum¬ 
mer the prevailing winds are from NE. to SE., occasionally in¬ 
terrupted by westerly winds accompanied with rain; but in 
winter southwesterly winds are almost constant; these bring 
foul weather, blowing strong for three or four daj^s, with 
rain, until the wind shifts in a heavy squall to NW., and the 
weather clears. Both these winter winds are to be dreaded, 
as the SW. makes havoc among the coasters, and the NW, 
blows extremely strong, rolls in a very heavy sea, and closes 
all the ports. 

The northers, called travesias, rarely last more than three 
days, and blow only between December and March ; a vessel 


DIRECTIONS. 




caught in one of them on this part of the coast had better 
stand to the eastward, as the coast trends somewhat to the 
S., and the wind usually ends at NE. 

The general direction of the current past the cape, and 
especially in winter, is to the eastward. In summer it some¬ 
times has a westerly set, particularly after several days of 
KE. wind. The tidal current sets to SE. with the flood, and 
to SW. with the ebb. 

Cape Penas is one of the most salient points of the north¬ 
ern coast, and is an excellent mark for the ports of Aviles, 
Luanco, and Gijon; it is easily known by its peculiar ap¬ 
pearance during the day, and by its light at night; for, 
besides being very projecting, its surface is level to the foot 
of the high land that continues along the whole coast of 
Asturias, at 3 or 4 miles from the shore. In structure it is 
like capes Busto and Eidio, and of the same color, for its 
cliff’s show the whitish color of the quartz of which they are 
partially composed. Seen from the W., the perfect level of 
the surface is only broken by a few groves of trees and 
scattered buildings; and from the E. the view is much the 
same. 

In heavy weather large vessels should pass outside the 
Somosllungo, at 5 or 6 miles from the cape. Vessels bound 
to Gijon from the westward, with southwesterly winds, 
should pass inside the Somosllungo, and may borrow toward 
the Eomauella, passing a mile outside the Gaviera and 
Bravo, in 30 to 40 fathoms water. To clear the Conos com¬ 
ing from the W., keep the Merendalvarez rocks on wdth the 
Yaca de Luanco; and, coming from the E., keep well north¬ 
ward until Erbosa is open of the Gaviera, and then con¬ 
tinue v/estward. 


Currents. 


Directions. 


lilumeres bay. 


tJoast. 


CHAPTER III. 

FROM CAPE PENAS TO CAPE MAYOR. 

Variation in 1876.—Gljon, 19° 35' westerly; S. Vicente de la Barquera> 
19^^ 05' westerly. 

From cape -Penas a steep coast trends southward and 
eastward, forming a bight that terminates at a high, round 
islet, named Castro, lying 10 or 12 yards from the shore; a 
short reef extending NE. from the islet is called Castro 
point. To the E. of the islet is the spacious day of Llume- 
res, extending in to SSW., and ending in a clean beach of 
coarse, dark sand; the SE. limit of the bay is Narvata 
point, steep and of moderate height, with a rocky reef at its 
foot; the field of Narvata terminates here, and on the brow 
of the point are the ruins of the castle of the same name. 
The southern shore of the bay is steep and bold, but the 
northern is fronted by rocks extending some distance to 
NE. As the bay is clear and navigable, and is sheltered 
by cape Penas from the swell from NW., it is a good port 
of refuge during SW. winds, and in case of necessity lives 
may be saved by running the boats into the smooth water 
between Castro rock and the beach. Coasters frequent it 
to load with the iron-ore that falls from the cliffs, and an¬ 
chor near the shore in 7 to 9 fathoms water, sand. As the 
bay is open to NE., it is unsafe in these winds. A small 
stream winds through the valleys W. of the bay and empties 
at the beach. The nearest town is Biodo, on the plain of 
cape Penas. . 

From Narvata point the coast, steep and fronted by rocks, 
trends eastward to Sabugo point, a little more than 2 miles 
SE. by E. J E. from Cape Penas; a reef sets out from the 
low, rocky foot of the point, and terminates in Corbiro 
or Cordero rock which always shows, and inside which 
boats pass in fine weather ; a short reef extends eastward 
from the rock. At half a mile ESE. of Sabugo point is 


LUANCO BAY AND PORT. 


61 


point Aguilloii, and between them the coast runs in more 
than 1 mile to the S., forming Banugues bay, through the 
beach at the head of which the stream of the same name 
empties; all the bay is obstructed by rocks, and it is only 
frequented by a few fishing-boats. Point Aguillon is smooth 
and projects to the eastward; Aguillon bank is a short dis¬ 
tance off the point. From this point the coast is high and 
steep for a mile, to the Vaca de Luanco. A rugged inter¬ 
mediate point, named Moniello, projects to NE., and with 
Vaca point forms Moniello bay, 5 cables across, with a 
stream emptying at its head. The Yaca is a high promon¬ 
tory with clilfs of black, rugged, foliaceous -rocks of very 
grim appearance; a few detached rocks lie close off it. 
North of the Yaca, and about 50 yards distant, is Chato 
rock, covered at high water, steep-to, and with a channel 
for vessels inside it. The rock, is some 20 yards long E. 
and W. 

From Yaca point the coast turns to the southward and 
westward for more than 1 mile to the town of Luanco; in 
this extent are seen the ruins of the lookout tower of Lu¬ 
anco on a cliff*, and the ruins of a castle on Castillo point; 
between the two is another, rather high, point, named Oaballo, 
with some rocks off* it, the largest being Oaballo rock. Off 
Castillo point there are other rocks, the largest and farthest 
off shore of which is Peon rock, and from it a reef extends 
still farther out, named Sierra del Peon. Espera cove is 
SW. of Castillo point, and has depths of 2 and 3 fathoms 
water, sand; small craft lie here to await an opportunity of 
crossin g the bar. Luanco point, nearly three-fourths of a mile 
S. of Castillo point, is the SE. limit of Luanco bay, is rocky, and 
has rocks lying off it, the largest being Pena Cercada, an 
islet on whose summit is the hermitage of Nuestra Senora 
del Carmen. 

At the head of Luanco bay are the town an.d port of the 
same name, the latter being formed by a small mole that 
curves to the SW., sheltering a basin only large enough to 
accommodate four vessels of 100 tons and a few small craft; 
it dries at low w^ater, but vessels are not injured by ground¬ 
ing, as the bottom is of soft, muddy sand. W^hen there is 
a heavy NW. sea on, a swell enters the basin at high water 
and the moorings must be carefully attended to. The town 


Bay of Luanco. 


Port Luanco. 


62 


DIRECTIONS. 


Bar. 


Directions. 


Tides. 


• Coast. 


has a population of about 1,750. The principal exports are 
^^raiu, timber, and salt provisious. Good water is obtained 
from a fountain N. of the church, and provisions are plenti¬ 
ful. 

The bar is wide with depths of 19 to 22 feet over a rocky 
bottom, and may be taken always, except when there is a 
heavy sea. The obstructions are the Juan de Malao, Espiga, 
Peollo, and other rocks, and a pilot should be taken in en¬ 
tering. There is a channel on either side of the Juan de 
Malao rock, vessels usually passing S. of it. There are no 
regular pilots, but the boatmen act as such, and go out 
whenever a vessel is seen in the offing. 

To cross the bar, bring the point of the mole on with the 
middle of the narrow street that passes the IN’, end of the 
palace—a conspicuous building facing E.—and steer on this 
bearing till the bar is crossed, when the parish in the east¬ 
ern part of the town will be on with the middle of Peroho 
Hill, NW. of the town. Beyond this alignment the vessel 
is in the Pozo de la Pena de Arriba, and may anchor in 2 
to 3 fathoms at low water, sandy bottom, clear of the 
breakers of the bar. 

It is high water, full and change, at Luanco at 3^,* 
springs rise 13 feet and neaps 10 feet, a little more or less 
according to the direction of the wind. 

Eastward of Luanco point is point Cabritb, low and 
fronted by rocks, the most dangerous being Oabrito rock, 
which covers at high water, and inside which there is a 
boat-channel j it is about 20 yards from the point. 

Point Ouerno de Candhs is less than 1 mile from Cabrito 
point, and between them is the small bay and beach of San 
Pedro, where the fishermen take shelter from winds from 
W. to NNE. through K. The hermitage of San Pedrq is 
on the hill beyond the beach. Sombrado point, low, rocky, 
and salient, is at the northern limit of the bay, and about 
40 yards offi it is the islet of La Isla, surrounded by rocks ; 
small craft pass inside it in fine weather, but in heavy 
weather the whole channel breaks. Point Cuerno de Can- 
das is high, steep, rocky, and projecting to NE., and on its 
sea-face are the ruins of Cuerno battery and a guard-house. 
A little S. of this point is point San Antonio, high, steep, 
and of triangular form, with a hermitage of the same name 


N. 


candXs port and bay. 


63 


on its summit; between them there is a small bight with 
reddish cliffs and full of rocks. 

Point San Sebastian is about 200 j^ards S. by W. from Cand^sportand 
point San Antonio, which it resembles, though it is some-'^^^ 
what higher, and between them is a cove receding to the 
westward, at the head of which a rivulet empties; the 
town of Candasis on one of the heights, and a small semi¬ 
circular, pebbly beach, surrounded by two curved moles, 
each about 120 yards long, and with an opening 65 feet 
wide, facing SE. from the port, capable of accommodating 
30 or 40 fishing-boats at high water; it dries at low water, 
and it is difficult of approach in heavy weather, as it is be¬ 
set by rocks leaving channels that can only be taken by 
those locally familiar. About 1 mile SSE. J E., nearly, 
from point San Antonio is Peraii point, low, rocky, and 
projecting to NE.; it derives its name from a small stream 
that empties just S. of it. Between these points the coast 
forms the bay of Candds, receding somewhat to the W., and 
dangerous of approach on account of the following dangers 
outside: 

The Covanin, a rocky head of small extent, lies a short 
half-mile N. 58^ E. from point San Antonio, and has 6 feet 
water on it, and 6 to 9 fathoms around it at low tide. The 
Sierra de Santa Olalla, rather larger than the Covanin, is 
IJ miles E.- of San Antonio point, with 2J fathoms over it, 
and 7 to 8 fathoms around and inshore of it to the coast; it 
breaks heavily with much sea. The Castanar shoal is the 
most dangerous of all, as it is farthest off shore and on ac¬ 
count of its heavy breakers; it is E. of point San Antonio, 
and lies 2 miles off’ shore, and it has 2J fathoms water on 
it; it is not so large as the preceding, but is more steep-to. 

Another shoal, named Sierra, lies about 1 mile S. 60^ E. 
from San Antonio point, and 200 yards from Socampos 
point, and has 2 fathoms water over it; it is of small ex¬ 
tent, and between it and the shore there are 7 to 3J fathoms 
water, sand and rock. The Peton de Entrellusa is a rock 
farther E. than the latter, and with more water over it, and 
only breaks when there is a heavy sea on. All these dan¬ 
gers are portions of a rocky ledge fronting the coast, com¬ 
mencing at cape Penas and ending in the Cerro de Santa 
Catalina de Gijon ; there are patches of sand between them, 


G4 


CAPE TORRES. 


over a rocky bottom that extends a considerable distance 
oif shore. In passing along this extent of coast vessels 
should keep 2i to 3 miles out if there is much sea on, as the 
breakers extend well out and the sea is heaviest near the 
coast. Between capes Behas and Torres there is good 
shelter from SW. winds, and vessels bound for Gijon, near¬ 
ing it at night, can keep under sail between the capes, only 
taking care not to draw too close inshore. 

Coast. From Peran point the coast runs eastward to Socampo 

point, low and rocky, and thence to Aviado and Entrellusa 
points, of similar character and surrounded by rocks. A 
steep coast with occasional patches of foul beach continues, 
in a SE. direction, to the mouth of the Abono Eiver, which 
empties at the foot of a hillock of considerable height, 
through a steep beach j the river can only be entered by 

boats at high water j the beach of the same name extends 

some distance eastward, and is easily known by its height 
and whiteness; beyond it a high, steep coast of reddish 

Cape Torres, color extends to Torres, which takes its name from the land 
terminating in its sea-face in steep, rugged, rocky pinnacles 
in the form of towers. A craggy islet, named Orrio, is oft 
the NW. point of the cape with a boat-channel inshore. 
The cape is the extremity of a much broken promontory of 
reddish color, projecting to ENE., and forms the NW. limit 
of Gijon bay. 

’BayofGijon. The hill of Santa Cataliua is rather more than 2 miles 
SE. of Torres cape, and forms the SE. limit of the bay of 

Gijon, which is a little more than a mile deep to SW., and 
is completely open to the NE. Vessels take shelter in the 
western part of the bay from westerly and southwesterly 
winds, and are there protected by cape Torres from the 
NW. swell. Near the cape a rocky shore commences that 
borders almost all the bay, and makes access to the port 
difficult to a stranger. The beaches of Arbeyal, farthest 
W., and Paseo, next to Gijon, are of sand on a bed of rock 
that extends out as a reef, and are separated by the low, 
isolated hill of Corono. The greatest depth of water is 11 
fathoms at the entrance, shoaling gradually to the shore 
over a rocky bottom with patches of sand, the latter pre¬ 
dominating near the cape. The shores of the bay ard gen¬ 
erally low, increasing in height toward cape Torres. At 8 


TOWN OF GIJON. 


C5 


cables S. of the cape the dismantled tower of Ariino is seen 
on some reddish clilfs. 

Tbe westernmost of the dangers within the bay of Gijon, i^angers. 
named Osa, is a short mile WNW. J W. from the light¬ 
house on the hill of Santa Catalina. It never dries, but 
the weed on its summit can be seen at low spring-tides, 
and the sea breaks on it at low water. It is about il. of 
Corono hill. The Serrapio de Mar, or Outer Serrapio, is a 
rocky ledge, of some extent, with less than 2 fathoms water 
on it at low springs. Its center is 3J cables N. 30° W. from 
the light-house, and inshore of it there are G fathoms water. 

When the sea breaks on this it breaks also on the bar, so 
that the pilots watch the surface of the water over it for 
taking the bar. San Justo bank is smaller than the latter, 
has about 2 fathoms water on it, and is only dangerous 
when there is a heavy sea. It is 3 cables N. 70° W. from 
Santa Catalina Castle point, and inshore of it there are 5 
and 6 fathoms. Serrapio de Tierra, or Inner Serrapio, is a 
ledge that uncovers at half-tide, and on which the sea 
breaks almost constantly. It lies 3 cables W. by N. from 
the mouth of the basin, and with the mole and reef extend¬ 
ing from Bocal point forms the bar of the port. The Yeu- 
daval, a no less dangerous ledge, though smaller, lies a 
short distance W. of the latter, and between them there is 
a channel named Carrero. The Cervigon or Bar rock is 
nearly in the middle of the bar and has 5 feet water on it 
at low springs, and the Juau Sancho bank, dry at low 
springs, is between it and the NE. part of the Inner Ser¬ 
rapio, assisting to contract the bar. And finally between 
Corono hill and the town numerous rocks uncover at low- 
water, some of them one-fourth of a mile from the shore. 

Santa Catalina hill, about 3 cables in extent E. and W., Gijon. 
and 148 feet high, is connected with the main by a low nar¬ 
row tongue of land. Its sides are precipitous, except to 
the S., where it slopes more gradually, and at the foot of 
this slope is the town of Gijon, with a population of about 
10,500, the importance of which is steadily increasing. On 
the summit of the hill is a store house, formerly the chapel 
of Santa Catalina; on its NVY. extremity is the castle of 
the same name, and between these is the light house; on 
the eastern part of the hill are the battery of San Pedro 
5 N C 


66 


GIJON LIGHTS. 


and its mngaziiiG. In the main the streets of the city are 
wide, j)aved, and clean, and the houses well built. The 
former Augustine convent is now a cigar manufactory em¬ 
ploying 1,400 people. There are glass and bottle works, 
and fishing and salting fish are carried on to some extent. 
There is considerable coasting-trade in coal, grain, cider, 
paving-stones, and colonial produce, and some amount of 
foreign trade. The Spanish Armada was repaired here in 
1588, and in 1810 the town was sacked and its shipping 
destroyed by the French. 

Basin. The port, basin, or darsena, of Gijon is 350 yards long, 

NW. by N. and SE. by S., and 100 yards wide, with a ca¬ 
pacity for 80 to 100 vessels of 50 to 200 tons. It is sur¬ 
rounded by a stone mole, with an opening of 55 feet to the. 
SW., between the old and new moles. A branch of the 
Langreo railway is carried along the latter to bring coal to 
the vessels loading with it. The basin dries at low water, 
and vessels of 13-feet draught can only enter at high springs, 
as at neaps there are only 11 feet water at the entrance. 
The bottom is rock, and outside and S. of the basin are 
some dangerous heads, while the channel itself is obstructed 
by one or two rocks. It is recommended that vessels trad¬ 
ing here should be strongly built, capable of taking the 
ground, and with their keels plated with iron, on account 
of the rocky bottom and the swell that sometimes sets in. 

Eesourccs. Kcpairs of all kinds can be effected; provisions are plen¬ 
tiful, and excellent water can be obtained from a fountain. 

Lights: Lat.43 ° From the square, white light-tower on the hill of Santa 
50 40 ^ 03 '^w.^^"^' Gatalina there is displayed, at an elevation of 167 feet above 


Lat. 430 32' 42" 
X.; long. 5 ° 40' 
16" W. 


Bar. 


the sea, 2 k fixed ichite light, visible 10 miles in clear weather. 

A fixed red light is exhibited from an iron column at the 
extremity of the mole extending from Bocal point, 28 feet 
above the sea, and visible 7 miles. A small red hghtis also 
seen on the north mole of the basin when within the bar. 

The principal passage over the bar is between the mole 
extending from Bocal point and the Inner Serrapio; the 
greatest depth of water on it is 28'feet at high springs, and 
as it is narrow, vessels crossing with good way on do not 
receive more than one wash or heav^e of the sea, so the 
swell is rarely sufficient to prevent taking it; none, how¬ 
ever, should attempt it without being certain that there is 










































































ANCHORAGES—PILOTS. 


67 


sufficient water for the vessel at the entrance to the basin. 

The Carrero channel, between the Inner Serrapio and Yen- 
daval rock, is very narrow when there is much sea on, but 
is much used by fishermen and coasters locally familiar; 
two conical pillars on the beach, near San Est6ban chapel 
by Natahoyo brook, lead over the bar in mid-channel. 

The usual anchorage for large vessels is ESE. of cape Outside anchor- 
Torres in 12 to 10 fathoms water, sand, with the town of 
Candds just shut in with Orrio islet, and at about 4 cables 
from the islet j a red barrel-buoy is moored in 11 fathoms 
at about 450 yards from the cape, with Arnao castle bear¬ 
ing S. 430 W., and the light-tower of Santa Catalina S. 45° 

30' E., to mark the -anchorage and assist vessels in getting 
under way. 

Smaller craft anchor farther inshore, in 7 to 8 fathoms. 

A buoy, similar to and 460 yards S. 30^ W. from the for¬ 
mer, marks this anchorage. From it Arnao castle bears S. 

530 30' W., and the light-tower of Santa Catalina S. 55o 
30' E. 

There are three red mooring-buoys in the outer port, in¬ 
side the Santa Catalina mole, and a conical red buoy with 
white stripe is anchored N. of the southern mole of the 
outer port, now building. 

As the bay is open to the NE., vessels should bo prepared 
to put to sea at once should the wind haul to the north, 
ward and blow hard, as it frequently does even in summer. 

Small vessels run for the basin, or if the sea is too heavy 
to take the bar fishing-vessels run for a little creek with a 
shingle-beach and protected by a reef, on the western shore 
of the bay, about 300 yards S. of Arnao castle. 

Every v^essel above 50 tons is obliged to take a pilot and Pilots, 
a boat with a crew of nine men, for which the charges are 
as follows : vessels from 50 to 149 tons, for pilot and boat, 

100 reals vellon ($5) in summer, and 120 r. v. ($6) in win¬ 
ter j vessels above 150 tons 120 r. v. {|6) in summer, and 
140 r. V. ($7) in winter. The xnlot is compelled under a 
penalty to moor the vessel well and efficiently. The sum¬ 
mer season is from May 1 to September 30. Vessels taking 
a pilot on the coast pay for pilot-boat and crew about $5 
a league, (3 miles.) Directly a vessel arrives off the port 
a pilot goes out, and if the sea be such that he cannot 



68 


COAST. 


Tides. 


Directions. 


Coast. 


cross the bar, be remains in the best place for receiving the 
vessel and waves a blue flag in the direction she is to 
steer. Boats for towing or for communicating with the 
shore may be had at a moderate price. 

It is high water, full and change, at G-ijon at 3’*; springs 
rise 13 feet, and neaps 10 feet, with an increase of about 2 
feet with NW. or SW. winds, and a corresponding decrease 
with NE. or SE. winds. The stream is weak, but when 
there is a heavy sea the eddies are strong in the channel 
and at the entrance. 

The position of Gijon is easily recognized by cape Peiias, 
cape Torres, or Santa Catalina hill. Vessels bound to 
Gijon from the westward should give Cape Penas, in heavy 
weather, a berth of 5 or 6 miles, to avoid the heavy sea, but 
with SW. wind they may pass inside Somosllungo shoal, 
for as soon as the cape is doubled the wind will become 
scant. 

At a little more than 1 mile E. J K. from the hill of Santa 
Catalina is Cervigon point, the coast between forming the 
bay of San Pedro, surrounded by a beach through which 
the Piles river empties. The bottom of the bay is of rock, 
with occasional light patches of sand, and there is no an¬ 
chorage in it. Beyond the beach the shore is low and 
marshy, rising somewhat to Cervigon point, which is rocky, 
and similar in appearance to the hill of Santa Catalina, and 
off which a long reef extends. From Cervigon point a 
higher, rocky, and foul coast runs to northeastward, form¬ 
ing a considerable bay terminating at cape San Lorenzo, 
distant a little more than 1 mile. About the middle of this 
extent is the high, steep, rounded point of Punta Gorda. 
Cape San Lorenzo extends northward, and terminates in a 
low, dark, steep hill, that from E. or W. looks like an islet; 
the land above the cape is high, and on one of the heights 
are the ruins of the chapel of San Lorenzo, which, with an¬ 
other building on the highest land, makes a good mark for 
the cape. Between Cervigon point and this cape the coast 
is fronted with rocks, and at 1 mile distance there are only 
11 to 15 fathoms water, rock. At one-fourth of a mile E. 
of the cape are the three low, black rocks of Estano, with 3J 
to 4 fathoms water between them, and 7 fathoms between 


COAST. 


69 


them and the cape; small craft pass inshore of them at 
high water in fine weather. 

From Cape San Lorenzo a rather low, uniform coast, with 
considerable vegetation about the cliffs, runs southward 
and eastward to point Escalera, forming Somio bay, in 
which the beaches of Noria, in the western part, and Aran- 
zon, in the eastern, are the only accessible points. Escalera 
I)oiut projects to the N., and is only noticeable when sailing 
along the coast; thence a rocky shore of equal height ex¬ 
tends to the high, slightly salient point of Peiia Kubio, the 
western limit of Espaiia bay, the eastern limit of which is 
point Entornada; this latter bay is about 1 mile across, and 
of nearly the same depth to the S.; the bottom is foul, and 
only at the head of the bay there is a little beach, where the 
Espafia river empties, a small stream with an impracticable 
bar. Point Entornada is high,rounded, and bluff to seaward; 
between it and cape San Lorenzo the coast is of regular height, 
terminating in cliffs, and skirted at about 100 yards’ dis¬ 
tance by large detached rocks that uncover at low water; 
at 2 cables outside the rocks there are 8 to 10 fathoms 
water; at 1 mile, 15 to 23 fathoms, and at 2 miles, 30 fath¬ 
oms, rocky bottom; outside of 45 fathoms a sand bottom 
predominates. The same character of coast continues for a 
mile E. of Entornada point, bending to the S. to form the 
bay of Barqueta—locally known as Meron—in which a 
small stream empties; the bay is small, with a sand-beach 
at its head, and terminates on the E. at Coin point; on the 
heights scattered houses, villages, and cultivated lands are 
seen. 

From Coin point the coast trends eastward, forming a 
shallow bight to Olivo point, 8 miles E. J S. from cape San 
Lorenzo ; the point projects to the N. and appears the same 
from E. or W., but from seaward is blended with the heights 
of the interior. (View 33.) A reef extends out from it for 
some distance, and with NW. gales the sea breaks at more 
than four-fifths of a mile from shore. There are 15 fathoms 
water, rock, at 1 mile N. of the poiut. The coast between 
Meron or Barqueta bay and Olivo point is covered with 
vegetation to the water’s edge, but here and there it is of 
eliffs. It is clear of danger, and may safely be approached 
to the distance of a mile in fair weatlier. 


70 


VILLAVIC10S4 LIGHT—INLET. 


Tazonesbay. Tazoiics point, IJ iiiiles ESE. from Olivo point, is higb^ 
and slopes suddenly to the sea; a wide, rocky ledge, that 
uncovers for more than 200 yards at low water, sets out for 
a considerable distance ; the rocks that uncover are named 
the Ariceras. Eastward of the point is the bay of Tazones, 
surrounded by high lands sloping rapidly to the sea, and 
with a break near the middle, where the fishing-village of 
Tazones, with about 200 inhabitants, is built in terraces 
along the shore; to the north of the village is the conspic¬ 
uous white chapel of San Eoque, and near the sea shore is 
the old square Tazones tower. The shore of the bay is 
rocky, and in the middle of it is a small shingle-beach, where 
the boats haul up. The bay terminates to the S. in Mesnada 
point. (View 34.) In the middle of the bay, and outside, in 
an easterly direction, the bottom is clean sand, good hold¬ 
ing-ground, and the anchorage is protected from winds from 
NW. to SE. through W. Vessels of 300 tons may anchor 
in G to 10 fathoms water as soon as the chapel of San Roque 
is open of the heights of Tazones point, at which time all 
the village will be seen; a vessel taking the anchorage in 
a KW. gale should give the point a good berth. 

Light: Lat. 43° On Tazoiies point is a square, yellow tower with white 

35' 10" N • lon^ * A 7 

50 22 '56'w. “ lantern, which displays, at an elevation of 220 feet above 
the sea, a fixed 'white light, visible 7 miles in clear weather. 

Mesnada shoal. Mesuada poiut is the foot of the hill, 300 feet high, of the 
same name; off it are some sunken rocks, the most danger¬ 
ous lying about 140 yards from the poiut, having less than 
1 fathom water on it at low tide. When the sea from NW. 
breaks on this rock it breaks also on Villaviciosa bar. 

Viiiaviciosa in. ^ short distance SE. of Mesnada hill is the hill of San 
Miguel, higher, but not so steep. A low, rocky jioint, named 
Punta de Barra, or Bar point, extends eastward from its 
foot, and forms with Eodiles bank the bar and entrance of 
Villaviciosa inlet. All the western shore is rocky and un¬ 
equal, but the eastern is of sand, being formed by the ex¬ 
tensive Eodiles bank, which continues eastward to the hill 
of the same name. 

At high water Villaviciosa presents the appearance of an 
extensive lake, forming here and there bays and gullies^ 
bounded by hills covered with trees, vegetation and scat¬ 
tered villas; but at low water the extensive banks of sand 



Cape l.aslres, ' Pouit OJi>d i. IfesT Zi mies. 



Bar of N'lllawiosa 


Point Mesnatla.. S 11°E Disf' iiaie- 


Peak of Suea'e 





























































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snldilUl 


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village ojD. 
torrd^Bi 

It', ibure id 
>,U*. 4.i\ .is* 

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-.iJa; 

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time, all 


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Vi- 










TOWN OF VILLAVICIOSA. 


71 


and rushes extend from the eastern nearly to the opposite 
shore, leaving only the main channel and numerous little 
channels between the marshy islets. The main channel is 
near the western shore, but varies somewhat in position 
with the shifting of the banks. The passage over the bar 
is about 14 yards wide at low water, and 6 to 7 feet deep; 
it passes close to Bar rock, which only uncovers at low spring- 
tides, and a pilot is necessarj'; one may be obtained at Ta- 
zones. Within the bar the channel is tortuous and narrow, 
the depth at low water varying from 11 to 18 feet. On the 
western shore, 4 cables within the bar, is Piedoro point, the 
N. extreme of a bight called Barquero anchorage, where 
there is a ferry. The shore of this bight is a shingle-beach, 
and beyond San Telmo, the southern point, is another and 
larger bay named Puntal, frequented by vessels because the 
bottom is soft and because those drawing 9 to 11 feet water 
can lie atloat at all times ; the southern limit of this anchor¬ 
age is at the lime-mole, where vessels load. Thence the 
channel becomes more tortuous and shoal, so that only ves. 
sels of 9 feet draught can go 1 mile farther up, and those of 
lighter drauglit to Espuncia, a loading-place for coals and 
merchandise conveyed by carriage to the town of Villavi- 
ciosa. 

The town of Villaviciosa is pleasantly situated on the 
eastern shore of the inlet, about 3 miles from the sea. The 
Viacaba river falls into the inlet a little S. of the town. 
Population, 800. Exports filberts, chestnuts, citron, coal, 
and lime. Imports graiu, etc.. 

It is high water, full and change, at Villaviciosa bar at 
3% and the rise is about 13 feet. With westerly winds 
there is an increase of about 2 feet in the rise, and the time 
of high water is an hour or more later j and the contrary 
obtains with easterly winds. The velocity of the flood- 
stream is about 3 miles an hour; the ebb is a little greater, 
and is still further iucreased-at times by freshets. 

In coming from the westward the position of the inlet 
may be recognized by Olivo and Tazones points and the 
hills of Mesnada and Eodiles, and from the eastward by 
cape Lastres, point Tazones, and the same hills. In com¬ 
ing from seaward in clear weather the remarkable mountain 
of Carrandi, S. of Lastres, will be seen standing out clearly 


# 


Villaviciosa. 


Titles. 


Marks. 


72 


LASTRES BAY AND TOWN. 


from the heights of the interior. (View 35). This mountain 
is an excellent mark from seaward for the ports of Gijon, 
Villaviciosa, Kivadesella, and the intermediate anchorages. 

EodUes point] From the bar of Villaviciosa the sands of Eodiles extend 
eastward to the foot of the hill of the same name. The hill 
is liigh, isolated, and flat at the summit, and is connected 
with the main by a tongue of low land. The rocky point 
of Eodiles extends in a EW. direction from its foot. Dur¬ 
ing fine weather vessels usually anchor off Eodiles beach, 
to await the tide for Villaviciosa. 

Coast; Between Eodiles point and point Llastras is the shal¬ 

low bay of Conejera. The coast is foul, and off the latter 
point are the Muelas rocks, the outermost awash at low 
springs, being about 400 yards off shore. Thence a regular 
level coast, with considerable vegetation above the cliffs, 
runs E. to cape Lastres, 4 miles ESE. J E. from Tazones 
point. Cape Lastres projects northward, and is known by 
its level surface and its sudden slope to the sea. (View 33.) 
Its northern part is of reddish cliffs, and about 100 yards 
off' its foot there is a rock named Vaca that dries at low 
water and has a boat-channel inside it. Foul ground 
extends a considerable distance, and in NVV. gales the sea 
breaks a mile from the coast. 

At miles SE. J S. from cape Lastres is point Misiera, at 
200 yards off' which is Plancha shoal, a ledge some 10 yards 
across, with 5 to 6 fathoms water on it at low tide. The 
rest of the coast is bold and clean. 

Lastres bay and Eastres bay is only a small bight, protected from NVV. 

“wn.j winds by Misiera point and cape Lastres. The town, of 

about 800 inhabitants, is built on the steep slope of the 
shore, and a small indiff'erent mole affords some shelter to 
the fishing-boats. Vessels bound for Eivadesella with N W. 
winds sometimes seek shelter here, anchoring in the outer 
bay, in 6 or 7 fathoms water at low tide, sand and mud, with 
point Misiera on with cape Lastres, and the Pico del Medio, 
an eminence seen to the S\V., in line with the hermitage of 
San Telmo, S. of the village and half-way up the slope of a 
hill. From this berth a vessel can get under way and clear 
cape Lastres with a XE. wind. Between it and the inner 
bay a long rocky ridge extends N. and S. with not less than 
6 fathoms on it, and in the inner bay the bottom is sand 


MOUNT CARRANDI. 


73 


agaiiK A few provisions and good water may be obtained 
from the town. 

At two-thirds of a mile S. by E. from Lastres, the little Co- Coiunga river. 
Innga river flows into the sea over a sandy beach. Small 
coasters enter the river at high water and go as far as the 
bridge of San Jnan de Luz, about half-way to Coiunga, where 
they load with wood and other produce. Beyond Lastres the 
sea-coast is lower, but to the E. of the river Coiunga is a 
hill, named Penote, whose base is washed by the sea. A 
rocky point extends northward, with a short reef, and the 
eastern slope of the hill terminates in a rather low cliffy 
point, named Isla, near which is the village of the same 
name. A reef extends off the point and some of the rocks 
show. East of it is a large bay and the beach of Espasa. 

The high, rugged mountain of Carraiidi, with the town of 
like name on its northern slope, is 5 miles inland, S. by E. 
from Lastres. It extends ENE., and WJSW. with well-de¬ 
fined declivities toward these points, and slopes to the sea¬ 
shore between Penote and point Carreros. (View 35.) Its 
summit is a succession of conical peaks, the highest being 
the peak of Sueve, 3,710 feet above sea-level. Its remarka¬ 
ble shape and dark color make it easily recognizable from 
a long distance. Oue of its spurs takes a NE. direction 
and terminates at the sea in point Sierra or Carreros; 
points Atalayas and Arrobado are terminations of other 
slopes. Between the two latter points is the beach of Mo- 
riz, and between Arrobado and Carreros points is the larger 
beach of Vega occupying a great portion of an extensive 
bay. This extent of coast is much broken, with foul ground 
close to the shore, but navigable at a short distance. To 
the eastward and inland of mount Carrandi are rugged and 
steep mountains interspersed in great confusion, and be^'ond 
them the peaked crests of the Pyrenean chain, almost always 
covered with snow, are seen for more than GO miles at sea. 

Point Carreros or Sierra projects well northward, and Coast, 
terminates in cliffs from whose foot reefs extend to the 
north, leaving channels between them that are used by 
coasters in fine weather; in heavy weather the sea breaks 
a long way out, and an offing of 1^ or 2 miles should be 
kept. 

An arm of land extends eastward from Carreros point 


74 


RIVADESELLA. INLET AND TOWN. 


Rivadesella 

let. 


Rivadesella. 


and terminates in a rapid declivity at the entrance to Kiva- 
desella; its NE. extremity is called Somos or Berguiz point, 
and the whole of it is known as mount Somos; the northern 
Clifts are of reddish color, and so are the cultivated lands 
above them ; it is 343 feet high, and on one of the eminences 
near the inlet is the light-house. It is similar in appear¬ 
ance and character to the hill of Nuestra Seiiora de la Guia 
E. of the entrance. 

in- The entrance to this inlet is nearly half a mile wide 
between the hills of Somos, on the W., and Guia or Cofbero, 
on the E. Between these two is the beach ot- Santa Marina, 
a broad white crescent of sand that nearly connects them. 
The inlet turns to the E along the S. side of Oorbero hill 
in a narrow channel, 55 to 90 yards wide and carrying 8 to 
21 feet at low water, bounded on the one side by a mole 8 
cables long, and on the other by the Santa Marina and 
other sands 5 the only part of the mole seen from outside is 
its high solid head with the flag-staff; it abuts against the 
cliffs which descend from the heights on which stands the 
temple of JS’uestra Senora de la Guia, and is thus easily 
recognized. Between the mole-head and the edge of Santa 
Marina bank is the bar, with 7 to 8 feet water at low spring- 
tides, and about 20 feet at high springs; at neaps there are 
11 feet at low and 17 feet at high water. When there is 
much sea from the NW.it breaks between Caballo point 
and the mole-head and renders the bar almost impassable, 
but in case it should be absolutely necessary to enter, good 
way should be kept on the vessel to keep before the sea. 

About 3 cables within the bar there is ample security in 
21 feet at low water, where vessels usually anchor or secure 
to the mole. Small vessels go farther in, and, should they 
ground, the bottom is soft. Occasional dredging will be 
necessary to keep a good depth along the mole. The sands 
of the bar are somewhat banked up during heavy on-shore 
winds, but the channel, close to the mole-head, is kept open 
by the river-current. 

The town of Eivadesella is scattered along the mole, and 
contains about 1,100 inhabitants. Exports are staves, nuts, 
ore, &c. Water is good, and provisions ma.y be obtained ; 
there are facilities for necessary repairs, but at the present 
day the commerce of the port is small. 


mVADESELLA LIGHT—DIRECTIONS. 

Oa mount Somos, at the western entrance of the inlet, 3 ^ 
there is a rectangular white light-tower rising from the®’ 
keeper’s dwelling, from which there is displayed, at an ele¬ 
vation of 370 feet above sea-level, a fijced tvhite light 
Yunedhy a flash every 4 minutes, and visible 15 miles in 
clear weather. 

It is high water, full and change, at Rivadesella at 3^, 
with a slight acceleration or retardation with NE. or NW. 
winds. Springs rise 12 feet and neaps 6 feet, varying some¬ 
what with different winds. The ebb-stream runs 2 miles 
an hour at springs, increasing to 5 and G miles during fresh¬ 
ets from the Sella Eiver; at neaps it runs IJ miles. 

Pilots go out from the town when a vessel is seen approach¬ 
ing ; and when they cannot cross the bar stand at the mole- 
head and direct the vessel by waving a red flag; should it 
be dangerous for the vessel to attempt the bar, the flag is 
waved frequently to right and left, in wliich case she should 
keep off‘ and on till a more favorable time. Pilotage is ob. 
ligatory on all vessels over 50 tons. AVhen the freshets are 
running strong the water is discolored, and a sailing-vessel 
should not enter without a commandiug breeze. 

Mount Carrandi (view 35) is 8 miles WSW. of Guia hill, 
and its eastern slope terminates near Kivadesella, so that 
when bound to this port it will be sufficient to steer for the 
lowest visible part of the slope. On a near approach Oor- 
bero and Somos hills with the chapel of iluestra Sehora de 
la Guia and the light-house, the sand of Santa Marina, and, 
finally, the mole-head, will be seen. (View 30.) In entering, 
steer midway between the points of entrance, to avoid the 
rocks off them, and then direct for the flag-staff, passing 
about 35 yards from the mole-head, and follow along the 
mole to the anchorage. In winter, moor head and stern, 
with the vessel’s head up the harbor, to better secure against 
the freshets, but in summer with the vessel’s head in or out. 
The swell of a N\Y.*gale is inconvenient to vessels moored 
in the outer part of the port, but as there is such a consider¬ 
able depth of water, and so short a bar, this harbor is a 
better port of refuge than Gijon, where vessels of moderate 
draught lie aground when the tide is out. 

Besides mount Carrandi, a rugged mountain, with its 
peaks covered with snow the greater part of the year, will 


75 


Light: Lat. 43° 
I' N.; long. 5° 
i' 06' W. 


Tides. 


Pilots. 


Directions. 


70 


NUEVA RIVER. 


Serropio bank. 


Palo Verde is 
let. 


Nueva river. 


Cape Mari 


be seen terminating? SSE. of Rivadesella j it is named Pena 
Santa, and its summits reach an altitude of 8,670 feet above 
the sea. It is a part of the Pyrenean range, and from the 
northward has the same appearance as the mountain of 
Mon serrate. 

A dangerous rocky bank, 100 yards long E. and W., and 
with 8 to 9 fathoms watei: on it, lies a little more than 1 mile 
N. of Corbero hill, and is named Serropio. It breaks when 
there is a high sea; inshore of it there are 14 to 18 fathoms 
water, rock, and the same depth is found a short distance 
outside of it, increasing rajudly seaward. A vessel should 
pass outside of it in bad weather, even if the sea is not 
breaking on it. From its western summit cape Lastres 
bears K 74^ W., and Guia chapel S. 24° W. 

Beyond Corbero hill a steep, broken coast, low along the 
shore but rising rapidly inland, trends eastward for nearly 
a mile, to the islet of Palo Yerde, which is pyramidal in 
shape and rather high ; it is 55 yards otf shore, and the chan¬ 
nel between carries 7 to 9 fathoms, rock. A similar coast 
continues eastward for miles, nearly, to the mouth of the 
Aguamia river, that empties through a gap in the cliffs; the 
eastern point of entrance is a high, prominent cliff, and the 
southern is low. From seaward the break in the cliffs 
shows the position of the river. 

At 2 miles farther E. is the more important Nueva river, 
so called from the town of that name by which it passes ; 
it falls into the sea through a little, clean, sandy beach 
called Cuevas de Mar. Fishing-boats seek shelter in this 
river in bad weather, entering at high water. Between these 
two streams is the unimportant cape of Villanueva and a 
village of the same name. The position of the Kueva 
river is easily recognized by the ravine and white beach, 
the only one between Eivadesella and cape Mar. A short 
distance westward and a little way off shore is the islet of 
Orcado de Cuevas, larger than Palo Verde, but the channel 
inside it is rocky and foul. 

From Nueva river the coast runs eastward to cape Mar, 
low, steep, and projecting to NE.; it is almost 7 miles E. J 
S. from the light house of Eivadesella. It is easily made 
out from E. or W., but from seaward it is blended with the 
cliffs in rear; it is bold, and may be closely approached in 


CAPE PRIETO. 


77 


fine weather, but in bad weather there is much sea off it. 

On the E. side of the cape the shore forms a bight with the 
little beach of Sail Antonio del Mar, where fishing-craft 
take refuge iu W. and NW. gales. This anchorage can be 
made when it is dangerous to attempt to enter Eivadesella, 
and crews fo^’ced to abandon their vessels might land here. 

Beyond cape Mar the coast is higher as far as cape Prieto, coast, 
and the rugged peaks inland are covered with snow. The 
coast trends nearly ESE., with no prominent points and but 
few breaks, the most notable being the Concha de Carneros, 
though which a stream flows; it is, however, insignificant, 
and can hardly be made out from seaward. A little farther 
E. is a dark, rocky islet near the shore, that, from a dis¬ 
tance, is blended with the cliffs, which are dark and rather 
low to point Huelga, at the foot of which is another islet. 

The coast continues in the same direction to San Antoliu, AntoUn 

beach. 

point, the western limit of the beach of the same name; this 
is about a mile iu extent, and is limited on the E. by Pistana 
point, a short distance off* which is an islet of the same 
name. The Bedon or San Antoliu river falls into the sea 
near the western end of the beach, and iu winter is a large 
stream. The beach at each extremity is scattered with rocks 
extending 2 cables out, and most of them uncover at low 
water. Between the rocks is a clean beach 400 yards long, 
the only accessible part of the whole. The beach is of 
remarkably white sand and shingle, and is conspicuous at 
a distance ; many navigators have sought it for safety in a 
gale and have lost their lives through not being aware of 
the existence of the above rocks. The convent of San 
Antoliu—the only building near the beach and E. of the 
river—iu line with a road on the summit of a ridge, leads 
between the rocks, but the beach of San Antonio, near cape 
Mar, should be preferred, being not so flat, clean, and of 
white sand, and because vessels may anchor off it under 
favorable circumstances and be sheltered from NW. and W. 
winds; it is open to winds from N. to E., but life may be 
saved, should it be necessary to abandon the vessel. 

Cape Prieto is of moderate height, slopes gradually to the CapePrieto. 
sea, and terminates in low, rugged rocks that can only be 
seen when near the cape and E. or W. of it. The north face 
of the coast forming the cape commences at the eastern end 


78 


NIEMBRO INLET AND VILLAGE. 


Vac a : cck. 


Niembro inlet. 


Niembro’ 


of San Antolin beach and terminates to the ENE. in a pro¬ 
jecting rocky point, which is the true cape; on it are tlie 
ruins of a watch-tower. In this northern front there is a 
strip of clean beach, named Torimbia, at the head of a small 
bay, and some rocks that are only isolated at high water lie 
along the shore. 

Yaca rock lies 300 yards EXE. of the cape, and one of its 
summits shows at low water; it is only dangerous when 
covered and the water is smooth, for when there is any sea 
it is well marked. The channel between the rock and the 
cape carries to 5^ fathoms water, rock, and is used by 
coasters in fine weather. A low, rocky islet, named Peyes, 
lies about 200 yards S. of the Yaca and a reef extends west¬ 
ward from it, showing a head at low water that appears like 
another and smaller islet. The channel between the islet 
and Yaca rock has 4J to 5J fathoms water. Jarellon islet 
is about 200 yards SW. of Peyes, and other islets and rocks 
lie closer inshore, with boat-channels between. The clean 
beach of Toranda, between cape Prieto and the Niernbro 
inlet, is protected from the sea from XW. and X. by these 
islets, and serves as a refuge for fishing-craft during on¬ 
shore winds. 

Borizo point, half a mile SSE. | E. from cape Prieto, 
is the W. point of entrance to Xiembro inlet, which extends 
S. for about one-fourth of a mile, and then SW. for 200 yards, 
to a beautiful, fine sandy basin on the XW. and another to 
the SE. The E. point of entrance, called Cueva Ladrona, 
is 140 yards from Borizo point, and the inlet varies in width 
from 110 to 45 yards, with but 8 feet water at the entrance 
at low tide, when the interior dries. The bottom is of muddy 
sand, on which vessels of about 7 feet draught, that enter 
at high water, ground safely. The best berth is in the SE. 
basin near the church, and in entering, the channel on either 
side of Peyes islet may be used. The channel within the 
inlet follows the direction of tlie shores, and as it is rather 
tortuous but little sail should be carried; the rocks along 
the shores are marked by the discoloration of the water over 
them. 

The village of Xiembro, containing about 300 inhabitants, 
is in the XW. angle of the basin, and only the belfry of its 
church is seen from outside. The little river of the same 



Lidht 



N" :<8. 



















































l ina Jiionor 


A 


* 


















































































BORIZO ISLAND. 


79 


name discharges itself near the church, between the two ba¬ 
sins, and the water is drinkable. Provisions are brought 
from Llanes, about 6 miles distant. 

It is high water, full and change, at Niembro at 3^, and 
high spring-tides give about 11 feet water at the entrance* 
The inlet dries at three-quarters ebb, so that the greatest 
rise of water above the ground inside the basin is 8 to 9 
feet, with a little greater depth in the channel. The stream 
is said to run out about li miles an hour. Cape Prieto is 
the best mark for recognizing the position of the inlet. 

A short mile E. of Niembro inlet is Borizo island; it is 
nearly circular, steep on all sides, flat-topped,.and of the 
same height as Borizo point, with which it is connected by 
a reef with scarcely enough water on it for a boat. Two low 
islets lie on its western side, and eastward of it is the little 
bay of Celorio and the islets of the same name. • A stream 
empties through the beach of this bay, which is unimpor¬ 
tant and unfrequented. The town of Celorio, numbering 
about 500 inhabitants, is in the interior, and the only build¬ 
ings visible from seaward are a convent and, near it, an old 
Benedrctine college on a cliff of the coast. Two islets, some¬ 
what similar to Borizo, named San Martin and Almenada, 
are a short distance off the coast and E. of Celorio. The 
last named of these is in the western part of Poo bay. 

This bay is somewhat larger than-that of Celorio, and is 
1 mlile E. of it; it has a beach where the little river Gutera 
empties, the mouth of which is entered by small craft at 
high water. The town of Poo, of about 500 inhabitants, is 
a little inland, and is visible from seaward. Off the point, 
at the eastern limit of the bay, there are several islets, the 
farthest out and most remarkable being named Palo de Poo; 
it is pyramidal in shape, and seen from E. or W. appears 
like a vessel under sail; it may be approached to within 
a short distance. 

Eastward of these islets, and in the middle of a strip of 
broken coast, is Jarri point, with a tower on its summit 
which bears ESE. f E. from cape Prieto, distant 4 miles. 
Jarri point is salient and steep, and has a little bay on its 
eastern side encumbered with rocks. Farther E. is San Pe¬ 
dro point, clean, and projecting to the eastward, with the 
round, white, pilots’ watch-house on it. (View 37.) 


Tides. 


Borizo island. 


P6o bay. 


Jarri point. 


80 


LLANES—LIGHT. 


Lianes. Gaballo point, a sliort distance SE. of San Pedro point, is 

low and rocky, and is the K. point of entrance to the little 
liort of Lianes; it is in the middle of a small bight, with a 
beach, olf which coasters anchor in fine weather when, wait¬ 
ing for a tide to enter the port; this anchorage is in 3 fath¬ 
oms, sand, near the middle of the bight, the bottom being 
of rock near the points. At 65 yards E. of Gaballo point is 
a rock, named Osa, which uncovers at low-water springs ; 
two heads of it show at ordinary low tides. There are 2f 
fathoms water, sand, between the Osa and the point, and 3 
to 31 fathoms between it and the opposite shore. The port 
of Lianes is small, and only admits vessels of 6 feet draught. 
Its mouth opens to the E., and is between Gaballo and Gal- 
averojondo points; it extends about 2 cables; W. by S. are 
moles and a small basin called the Ribera, where the small 
craft that enter at high water ground safely on a sand bot¬ 
tom at two-thirds ebb, and are protected from the swell. 
Vessels should only enter at high water and with a smooth 
sea, and a stranger should take a x>ilot and have the assist¬ 
ance of a boat, as the channel is narrow and winding. The 
channel on either side of the Osa may be used, the eastern 
being the wider but more difficult to navigate. To enter by 
the western channel, bring the chapel of San Anton, at the 
S. side of the entrance, on with the chapel of Virgen de la 
Guia, on a height bearing SSW., westerly, from the former. 
A beacon is to be placed on the Osa, and another in a con¬ 
venient position for a leading mark. 

Tides. It is high Water, full and change, at Lianes at 3^; springs 

rise 12 feet, and the velocity of the stream is not more than 
1 mile an hour. 

Resources. The towii of Llaiies contains about 1,300 inhabitants. 

Good water may be obtained from a spring near the bridge 
before or after high water, and provisions are abundant. 
There are good pilots, who go out to meet vessels approach¬ 
ing. 

San Antonio point, on the southern shore of the mouth 
40 45' 30" w. of the port, there is an octagonal white light house, attached 
to the keeper’s dwelling, from which there is displayed, at 
an elevation of 64 feet above the sea, a fixed white light, 
visible 9 miles in clear weather. 


SANTA CLARA AND BALLOT A POINTS. 


81 


The peaks called Urrieles de Llaiies, a i)ortion of the -^.spect. 
Pyrenean range, 12 miles inland, and south of the town, 
have an altitude of 8,900 feet, and form a good mark for 
the port. That named Naranjo de Bulnes, 8,622 feet high, 
is one of the most remarkable points of the chain, on ac¬ 
count of its isolation, barrenness, and pyramidal form. Be¬ 
tween the Urrieles and the coast is another chain, called 
Sierra de Cuera, extending E. and W., of less elevation, and 
from the middle of it rises mount Mojon, a remarkable con¬ 
ical peak, about 3,060 feet high, and less than 5 miles S. of 
Llanes. The Mojon and Naranjo de Bulnes in line lead to 
the entrance to Llanes. 

On nearing the coast, the tower of Jarri, on a height W. 
of the town, will be seen, with the watch house of the pilots 
on San Pedro point; the church of Nuestra Senora de la 
Guia standing alone on a height E. of the town; and the 
light-house, which is 26 feet high. (View 37.) 

Point Santa Clara is a projection of the cliffs of the coast, Santa ciara 
about IJ miles eastward of the port of Llanes, the land in 
rear of the cliffs being high, mountainous, and barren. Close 
westward of the point, and near the shore, are three islets, 
named the Canales, and farther W., and connected with 
the shore, is the islet of Toro, or Mauuela. 

Thence the coast runs E. by S., with high cliffs, washed Baiiota point, 
by the sea, to point Ballota, a level arm of land project¬ 
ing to NNE., having a^ little bay with a beach on the E., 
and another W. of it. At about 200 yards from the point is 
Ballota island, similar to it in appearance and steep on all 
sides, leaving a boat-channel between. When the island is 
in one, with the point bearing S. by W. f W., both beaches 
are visible, the one to the eastward being the larger. 

. At 1 mile E. of Ballota island is the little bay of Puron, coast, 
where a small stream of the same name discharges. One 
mile farther E. is the point of Vidiago, with the village of 
the same, name near it, and between these points is the little 
islet of Portas, close to thQ shore. A small and foul unused 
bay is half a mile beyond Vidiago point, and the little rivu¬ 
let of Novales empties into it. The next point eastward is 
Pendueles point, rocky, foul, and slightly salient, and a 
short distance E. of it is an islet, extending NW. and SE., 
called Concabada de Buelna, low, and washed over by the . 

6 N 0 


82 


THE TINAS. 


The Tinas. 


Tina Mayor. 


swell wbeu there is much sea; it is about 200 yards off 
shore, and there is but little water in the channel between. 

The shore all along this extent of coast is rather high, the 
height of the mountains of the interior diminishing as they 
extend eastward. There are one or two rocks and islets off* 
the coast, and it should be given a wide berth when the sea 
is heavy. 

From Llanes to San Vicente de la Barquera the coast is 
level and about 650 feet high, being only interrupted by 
three notable breaks or ravines, nearly equidistant from one 
another, named the Tinas. The first of these large bays is 
Tina del Oeste, or Santiuste; it extends in to the SW., but 
is completely obstructed by banks of sand and shingle, so 
that only boats and very small craft can cross the bar at 
high water. The little riv^er Cabra empties at the western 
end of the beach. The islet of Castrou de Santiuste lies in 
the mouth of the Tina, and nearer the western shore; it is 
large and rocky, rising vertically on almost all sides, and is 
connected to the shore by reefs that are scarcely covered at 
low water. When the islet bears ESE. ^ E., the bay is open 
and the extensive sandy beach of the interior is seen, con¬ 
spicuous from its whiteness in contrast to the darkness of 
the adjacent cliffs. 

The next to the eastward is Tina Mayor, a break some¬ 
what similar to the former, but more strongly marked. 
(View 38.) 

On the table-land formed by the coast between the two 
is the village of Pimiango, containing about 300 inhabi¬ 
tants, and on a slope of a hill not far from the shore, is the 
hermitage of San Emeterio; a little farther E. is the little 
hamlet of Tina half hidden by a grove of oaks. The inlet 
of Tina Mayor has become of late of considerable commer^ 
cial importance on account of the mineral exports and the 
timber brought by the high road from the province of Li^- 
vana, in Santander. The entrance is open to the N., and 
is less than 150 yards wide; the channel extends in for 
three-quarters of a mile, and is bounded by high, steep hills 
on either side, but at this point the hills recede, leaving a 
spacious cultivated plain through which the river Deva 
winds, closing in again beyond the village of Bdstio to form 
a narrow valley, through which the river flows. This river 


TINA MAYOR. 


83 


performs the good office of keeping the inlet navigable, for 
the entrance is often closed after NW. gales, the sands 
being swept away again by the stream of the pent-up 
waters. The freshets of the Deva, however, cause accumu¬ 
lations of gravel, forming banks that uncover at low water 
and narrow considerably the navigable channel. The largest 
of these banks, named Oascajal, is about 500 yards within 
the bar, leaving a navigable channel W. of it only about 30 
yards in width. Although vessels of 13 to 14 feet draught 
can enter, the inlet is only frequented by those of 9 to 11 
feet, which enter the Canal del Mazo, where they are well 
protected and out of the swift current of the river, and 
where they lie aground at low water on soft mud. Small 
craft go as far as Biistio, about 1|^ miles from the entrance, 
where there is a hole with 6 feet water in it at low tide, but 
they can only reach it at high water, as a shingle bank in 
the channel dries at low tide. Biistio contained about 200 
inhabitants in 1860, but was rapidly growing in importance ; 
it has a little mole where vessels discharge, and here the 
road from Columbres, a town of about 500 inhabitants, ter¬ 
minates. At the Canal de Portilla, E. of the river, the road 
from Santander terminates; this canal also dries at low 
water. 

The bar is at the entrance to the inlet and the channel, 
very variable in depth, but usually carrying 17 to 19 feet, 
is near the western shore, rocks and gravel extending nearly 
half-way over from the E. point; the rocks from this point 
extend some 300 yards northward, and then eastward to 
the beach of Pechon, those nearest the shore drying at low 
water. There are some rocks also off Tina point W. of the 
entrance, but they only extend out between 30 and 40 yards. 
There is a mooring-buoy near the entrance, belonging to one 
of the iron companies, and it is intended to mark the ex¬ 
tent of the channel at the bar by a buoy on each side. To 
enter, bring Tina point to bear S., distant about 1 cable, 
and then steer S. by E. to cross the bar. 

It is difficult to enter with strong NE. or KW. winds, as 
flaws and eddies are caused by the high land forming the 
entrance, and with these winds the sea breaks heavily on 
the bar. The entrance should not be attempted during the 



84 


TINA JMAYOR LIGHT. 


river freshets, which are marked by the discolor,ation of the 
water. 

The Deva and its tributary, the Cares, discharge a con¬ 
siderable quantity of water into the sea. Daring freshets the 
stream runs not less than 7 or 8 miles an hour, the ordinary 
velocity being 2 to 3 miles. The pilots say that the most 
favorable season for visiting the inlet is from July to Sep¬ 
tember. 

Tides. It is high water, full and change, at the bar of Tina Mayor 

at 3^'; springs rise 9 to 10 feet, and neaps about 6 feet. 
The tide is felt as high as Molleda, a village less than half 
a mile above Biistio, on the eastern shore of the Deva. At 
Bustio the flood lasts 2 hours, and is then overcome by the 
river stream; the ebb-stream here runs 3 to 4 miles, and 
the flood is scarcely felt. When there is much water in the 
river larger craft should enter at two-thirds of the flood, 
and smaller vessels at half flood, so as to reach an anchor¬ 
age before the ebb makes. There are no regular lulots, and 
vessels of any size should obtain one from Llanes. The 
exports are iron and timberj imports, nothing. Water 
may be taken almost anywhere from the river, as it is fresh 
nearly to the entrance. 

Emeterio point, miles to the westward of the 
40 33'36" w. entrance to Tina Mayor, there is a conical white tower 33 
feet high, attached to the keeper’s dwelling, from which is 
exhibited, at an elevation of 223 feet above the sea, a fixed 
white light, visible 15 miles in clear weather. 

Marks. The long stretch of high level coast between Llanes and 

San Vicente de la Barquera, with the three breaks of the 
Tinas, is, in itself, a good mark for this inlet, and on an 
approach to it the village of Pimiango is seen W., and that 
of Pechon E. of the port; the beach of P^ehon immediate¬ 
ly E. of the entrance is remarkably white and conspicuous. 
The light house is another good mark. 

The false Tinas is a name sometimes applied to Niembro 
inlet and the bays of San Antolin Oelorio and Poo, and 
there is a considerable similarity to the true in thick 
weather, when the heights of the interior cannot be seen, 
but a moderate amount of care will prevent any mistake. 

It is easy to leave Tina Mayor, for the land-wind never 


TINA MENOR. 


85 


fails about daybreak, and enables a vessel to get clear ot 
the coast. 

The currents are more felt eastward of cape Penas than 
westward of it, setting WNW. in summer and E. to ESE. 
in winter, with an occasional velocity ot 3 to 4 miles an 
hour, and to these currents may be attributed most of the 
shipwrecks of this coast. A strong current setting E. is a 
sure indication of a W. gale. 

The beach of Pechon is at the eastern side of the en¬ 
trance to Tina Mayor, and off its western part are rocks, 
several of which uncover at low water. Outside the beach 
the bottom is rocky, the water deepening to about 25 fath¬ 
oms at 2 miles otf shore. The rocky i)oint of Pechon is to 
the eastward, and the village of the same name stands on 
the N. slope of a hill midway between Tina Mayor and Ti¬ 
na Menor. The land over the shore is high and level like 
that between Tina Mayor and Santiuste, but descends un¬ 
evenly and terminates in clilfs. 

East of Pechon point the coast forms a small bight with 
a little shingle beach, limited to the eastward by a rocky 
islet. Then follows Vigia point, the western point of en¬ 
trance to Tina Menor. 

The inlet of Tina Menor, or del Este, extends S. for three- 
fourths of a mile, with high land on either side, in a channel 
100 to 200 yards wide, when it widens out, and at high water 
appears to be of considerable extent; but at low tide large 
banks of mud and weed uncover, leaving between them only 
a winding shallow channel 35 to 45 yards across. The bar 
dries at low water, and entrance is only practicable for boats 
and the smallest class of vessels that bring in iron-ore to 
the founderies of Cades and Cosio. To enter it is necessary 
to keep Vigia point well aboard, and then follow the western 
shore to keep the channel. There is a hole, with 7 or 8 feet 
water in it at low tide, shortly within the entrance, and the 
little village of Pesu6s, with about 325 inhabitants, is half 
a mile farther in on the western shore. A small stream, 
called Nansa or Ason, empties into the inlet and in freshets 
renders entrance difficult. Canton islet, a high, black rock, 
is within the bar and close off the eastern shore. 

At two-thirds of a mile E. by N. from Vigia point is the 
low, rocky point of Pellerezo. The character of the high. 


Currents. 


Coast. . 


Tina Menor. 


Coast. 


86 


SAN VICENTE DE LA BARQUERA. 


level land in the vicinity of the Tinas changes from this 
point, descending in gentle slopes to a low, undulating 
coast, while the mountains of the interior, though they 
retain their height, become softer in outline and hive few 
sharp peaks. A low, rocky coast runs eastward to point 
Liuera, projecting NW. from the foot of Boria hill, a long 
hill about 350 feet high that terminates at the bar of San 
Vicente de la Barquera. A ledge of rocks sets out from 
Linera point and borders the coast at the distance of a 
quarter of a mile to point Silla, three-eighths of a mile ESE. 
J E. It is called Liiiera bank, is covered with 1 to 2 feet 
water, and is steep-to, having 5 fathoms water close outside, 
and 2J to fathoms between it and the shore. There is 
an open channel through the bank that leads to the little 
bay of Linera. 

vSeSr de^la ^‘^stillo point, 1 Cable S. by E. from Silla point, is rocky, 

Barquera. and the two form the western points of entrance to the 
harbor of San Vicente de la Barquera. Between them 
are isolated rocks, covered at high water. At 100 yards 
NE. J E. from Castillo point is Del Oallo island, or Pena 
Mayor, 50 feet high, rocky and barren, and 160 yards in 
extent KE. and SW., and in bad weather the sea washes 
over it. It is connected with the point by a reef with only 
3 feet water on it at low tide. 

A rugged islet, named Pena Menor, lies a short distance 
off the NE. extremity of the island, and the channel between 
dries at low water. About 100 yards off the northern part 
of Del Gallo is Plancha rock, awash at low springs. 

These islets and rocks leave two channels for entering the 
inlet, one close to the western end of Del Oallo island, and 
the other between the islets and Meron sands, the former 
being used with NW. and the latter with NE. winds. The 
inlet was in former times resorted to by vessels of large 
draught, and owned a number of ships engaged in commerce 
or in the whale-fisheries; but it is now so obstructed with 
sand-banks that it is only frequented by vessels of 9 to 11 feet 
draught. It runs in to the SVV., and is divided by a rocky 
height into two arms, the western called Ria del Peral and 
the eastern Ria de Villegas, dr Barcenal. The first extends 
more than IJ miles inland, to the barrio or district of Entram- 
bosrios, and the other more than 3 miles, to the barrio of Bar- 


SAN VICENTE DE LA BARQUERA. 


87 


ceual. By the latter flat-bottomed craft go up to the factories 
with iron, passing through one of the thirty two arches of 
the bridge of Maza, which is 1,594 feet in length. 

The town of San Vicente de la Barquera contains at San Vicente, 
the present day only about 850 inhabitants, and is divided 
into the old and the new town. The old houses stand on 
the crest of the height that divides the inlet, and the mod¬ 
ern part is built on the eastern slope and so close to the 
edge of the sand that the sea occasionally reaches the doors 
of the houses. On the highest part of the ridge is a hand¬ 
some, conspicuous white church, 230 feet above the sea, and 
the remains of a castle. Drinkable water may be obtained 
at different points, and provisions on market-days. The Meron Beach, 
extensive sands of Meron commence at the western side of 
cape Oyhambre and extern^ miles westward along the foot 
of mount Braua, terminating within and nearly choking up 
the inlet. They dry at low water springs and form various 
banks, with channels between them. The sand is drawing 
toward Del Oallo island, and threatens at no distant period 
to unite with it, destroying the eastern channel of entrance. 

The best channel, after entering, is along the northern shore 
of the inlet, where there is enough water for vessels of 11 
to 14 feet draught to go as far as Nuevo bridge, where there 
is a hole large enough for two or three vessels to lie afloat, 
moored head and stern. The only inconvenience is the 
swell, when it blows hard from NVV. Small craft loading 
with timber make fast to a small quay near the town, and 
vessels arriving anchor off the chapel of Barquera, inside 
Espina point, where there is plenty of room. 

The bottom of the western or P^ral channel is of sand directions, 
and rock, and of the eastern, sand, so that the latter is pre¬ 
ferred when it is possible to use it, but as the depth is 
gradually lessening it requires frequent examination. As 
already stated, the western channel is used with N\V. 
winds, and the aid of a pilot is required in taking it. The 
long m irk for this is the W. point of Del Callo island on 
with the remains of the old house called Casa de la Maza^ 

{view 39,) and for the eastern channel the south side of the 
island in line with the church of San Vicente de la Bar¬ 
quera; in entering by either channel it is necessary to keep 
the island aboard. The old house of Maza stands on mount 


88 


SAN VICENTE LIGHT. 


. Light: 
23' 30" N 
40. 25' 50" 


Pilots. 


Tides. 


Maiks. 


Braua eastward of Maza bridge, and between it and the 
new house of the same name. If forced to run in during a 
NW. or N. gale careful attention to the marks of the 
western channel must be given, and the anchor let go as 
soon as the vessel is inside of Castillo point. When the 
southernmost houses of the town are in one with Espina 
point, the northern shore must be followed to keep the chan¬ 
nel. The port cannot be entered with winds from S. to 
SW. 

On point Silla there is a white stone light-tower attached 
“ to the keeper’s dwelling, from which there is displayed, at 
an elevation of 142 feet above the sea, fixed red light, vis¬ 
ible 9 miles in clear weather. The tower is 36 feet high. 

There are licensed pilots who go out to meet vessels in 
the ofBng, or if the sea prevents their going out they remain 
within the bar and signal with a blue flag the direction in 
which to steer. Pilotage is obligatory on vessels of more 
than 50 tons. Vessels bound for Santander or other ports 
of the Cantabrian coast can obtain coasting pilots from 
San Vicente. 

The time of high water, full and change, at San Vicente 
de la Barquerais at ; the greatest rise is 11 to 12 feet, 
and the least, 5 feet. With high winds from SW. to N. 
there is an increase of 2 feet in the rise, and with NE. to 
SE. winds a corresponding decrease. The ebb-stream runs 
3 knots an hour at springs, and 2 knots at neaps. 

In coming from the westward good marks for this port 
are found in the breaks of the Tinas and in mount San 
Cosme, or Kabo del Cabo, as it is called by the sailors of the 
country. It should be remembered that after passing ^the 
Tinas the height of the coast diminishes till it reaches Bo- 
ria hill, which terminates in the low, rocky points of Silla 
and Castillo. In coming from seaward mount Escudo will 
be seen, rugged and barren, extending E. and W. to the 
southward of Barquera, and rising to a peak 3,288 feet 
above the sea; it bears S. J E. from the summit of Boria 
hill. Mount Burgon, 3 miles inland, S. of Barquera, form¬ 
ing a cone 1,051 feet high, will also be recognized ; and on 
a nearer approach Del Callo island and the beach of Meroii 
will be seen. In coming from the eastward cape Oyham- 
bre is a good mark. Two conspicuous buildings at or near 


CAPE OYIIAMBRE. 


the port are the hermitage of Santa Catalina, on an emi¬ 
nence of Boria hill, and the stronghold of Santa Cruz, on 
Castillo point. (View 39.) 

The Peiia del Zapato, or Shoe rock, is in Meron sands 
about 75 yards off the foot of mount Brana. 

At miles ENE. J E. from the highest part of Del Callo Oyham- 
island is the westernmost part of cape Oyhambre. This 
cape presents to NNW. a face of 1 mile in extent, with 
small hills and whitish cliffs; the hills have an altitude of 
150 to 170 feet, making the cape readily distinguishable 
from a considerable distance. On the crest is a village. It 
is also known by the sands of Meron on the VV. and those 
of Babia on the E., for nowhere on the coast between cape 
Prieto and San Martin de la Arena are the sands so exten¬ 
sive and so close together. Seen from E. or W., the cape 
descends in terraces to the sea. (View' 42.) 

A berth of 3 or 4 miles must be given cape Oyhambre in 
bad w^eather, for reefs extend more than three-fourths of a 
mile to N\V. from the western extremity of its face, and an 
equal distance to ENE.from its eastern extremity; between 
them are numerous rocks and reefs, and the sea breaks 
heavily for some distance outside them. There are about 
20 fathoms water at 2 miles off the cape. 

On the eastern reef there is a conical rock, named La La Molar. 
Molar, where the sea frequently breaks, and w^hen this is 
the case it breaks also on the bar of Comillas, a fact taken 
advantage of by the fishermen to learn the state of the bar. 

On the E. side of cape Oyhambre the coast bends in to mua. bay and 
the SW., forming the bay of Rabia, surrounded by a beach 
of nearly the same extent, whiteness, and elevation-as that 
of Meron ; it is much encumbered with rocks, leaving only 
one part clear near the cape and inshore of the reefs, ^vhere 
the fishing-craft take shelter in gales from N\V. or SW. 
when they cannot cross the bars of their ports. A pilot is 
required in passing the reefs by an}' one not familiar with 
the channels. 

The inlet of Rabia is formed at the eastern extremity of 
the beach; its bar is very variable and dries at low water, 
but small craft can lie afloat inside. The long, low islet of 
Rabia lying E. and W., fronts the bar and is surrounded by 
sand at low w ater. Only a very small class of vessels enter 


DO 


PORT COMILLAS. 


the iulet to load with building-timber for LaBart^uera; it 
should be approached at the western end of the islet, and 
only at high water and in fine weather, as it breaks on the 
bar when there is any sea; vessels go as high as the bridge 
of Rabia, which crosses the inlet at the road to Comillas. 

^oast. Beyond the Rabia islet is the rocky point of Oabrero, 

with a reef setting out from it to the NW., and then a 
small bend in the coast, with one or two patches of beach, 
terminating at Moria point. From Moria point, which is 
formed of rather low cliffs, reefs extend some distance out, 
the most formidable being named Moro ; on a slight eleva¬ 
tion on the point are the remains of a watch-house, 
miles ESE. J E. from the most projecting point of cape 
Oyhambre. 

At a short distance E. of Moria point is point Castillo, 
from which reefs extend to the NE., and act as a break¬ 
water for the little bay in which is the port of Comillasj on 
the point are the remains of an old fort. 

Port Comillas. The poi’t of Comillas is in a little bay E. of point Cas¬ 
tillo, and is formed of two piers inclosing sufficient space 
for the fishing-boats of the neighboring coast, and with an 
entrance about 8 yards wide. The town, with a popula¬ 
tion of about 1,300, is 1 mile S. by E. from Castillo point. 
The port opens to the southward, and is dry at low water, 
with bottom of muddy sand. The channel is narrow, tor¬ 
tuous, and difficult, and can only be taken in moderate 
weather with the assistance of a pilot and boats. Vessels 
of 120 tons sometimes enter to load with minerals, but it is 
inconvenient for those of greater burden than 70 to 80 tons, 
and only ten of these are admitted at one time, so as to 
leave room for the smaller craft. When there is much sea 
outside, the entrance is somewhat protected by a kind of 
half-gate formed of strong wooden bars, to prevent injury 
to the vessels by the swell in the basin. There is a flag- 
staft‘ on an eminence near the port, where a white ball is 
hoisted to warn a vessel not to enter, either because the 
basin is occupied or on account of the state of the bar. 

Lights. Two conical white pillars are placed on the heights, and 

when in line lead to the middle of the bar ; a light is dis¬ 
played on each of these when vessels are outside at night, 


Casa (It* lit May.a 


Moiiiil Escudo 


\founl BurQon 





Moiinl E’scudo Coinillas 



Calfiiialion Establishment S'“ Lucia. ikde. S. by'W. Hist i iime. 


(ajie [.ala Entrance to San Martin de la Arena. Mogro Peak 


I 



Liencres Point ' Cabrera Island on wth Liencres Beadi ’?‘Ballolla 'S.76°Z. 

S-35°E, Dist 10? miJes 


























































MARKS—COAST. 


91 


when the weather is bad, and also a temporary fire is made 
as a guide for the fishing-craft. 

Channel-buoys are placed that also serve as mooring- 
buoys for vessels waiting for a tide. 

The position of Cornillas is readily made out, by the es- Marks, 
tablishment for calcining minerals, which is a little more 
than half a mile ESE. of the port, and, with its chimneys 
and workshops, the only buildings of the kind on the coast, 
is very consincuous. At the same time the walls of the 
mole, the storehouses, and the masts of the vessels inside, 
the signal staff, the village scattered over a hill, the hermit¬ 
age of Santa Lucia, and the ruins of a church a little farther 
to the SW., will be seen. (View 40.) 

If to the westward of the port, cape Oyhambre, the 
beaches of Eabia and Meron, and the heights over San 
Vicente de la Barquera, are good marks. If to the eastward, 
the islands at the entrance to San Martin de la Arena, the 
town of Suances, the beach of Luaiia, and the church of 
Nuestra Senora de los Itemedios. 

Cornillas will not be mistaken for San Vicente de la 
Barquera, if it be observed that the former is to the E. and 
the latter to the W. of the beaches of Rabia and Meron. 

A little more than 1 mile eastward of Cornillas is the 
rather high, rocky point of Miradorio, with some reefs off it. 

Between this point and the port is a bay with a little foul 
beach, and at the head of the bay a brook empties. To the 
eastward of the brook, near the sea shore and at the foot of 
the cliffs of Miradorio point, is the establishment for the 
calcination off minerals above described, from which the 
mines are but a short distance. 

At a little’ more than half a mile NE. of Miradorio point 
is Remedios point, projecting to the N., and with a reef 
extending a short distance off it. Two large caverns, re¬ 
markable from their dark color, appear in the cliffs E. of 
the point. The church of Nuestra Seiiora de los Remedios, 
conspicuous from its size and its isolated position, stands 
on a hill above the point, a little way from the shore, and 
is a good mark for Cornillas. 

To the northward of the above points, and 3J to 4 miles .LuasaandTor- 
from the coast, are two rocky banks that are dangerous 
when there is much sea. The western bank, Luana, is the 


92 


SAN VICENTE DE LUANA. 


smaller, and has 11 to 17 fathoms water on it, and 35 to 45 
fathoms at its outer edge, increasing to p5 fathoms, mud j 
and between the bank and the coast there are 27 to 32 fath¬ 
oms, sand and rock. From the least water on the bank Ca¬ 
brera or Snances island bearsE.; Lnaiia beach S. 25° E.; the 
church of San Vicente de la Barqnera S. 59^ W. j and 
mount San Cosme S. 60^ W. It breaks with much sea 
from NVV., and its breakers are extremely heavy. 

Torriente bank, 2 miles ENE. of Luana bank and 4 miles 
from the coast, is about 200 yards in extent NW. and SE.; 
the least soundings on it are 10 to 12 fathoms, with 45 to 
55 fathoms, mud, on its northern edge, and 27 to 37 fathoms 
between it and the shore. From the least depth on it 
Cabrera island bears S. 85^ E.; Luana beach S. 2^ E.; 
cape Oyhambre 8.01° W.; and mount San Cosrne 8.66° 
W. 

The Torriente breaks when the Lnaiia does, and in NW. 
winds a vessel should pass outside them and at a good dis¬ 
tance, but there is no danger in passing over either in fine 
weather. Views 41 and 42 were taken from the least water 
on Torriente bank. 

about 1 mile E. of point Remedios is that of Railoba 
or Lnaiia, the western point of entrance to the bay of San 
Vicente de Lnaiia, which is surrounded by a beach. Near 
the point is the hermitage of San Vicente, and on the 
heights over the point and a little inland is the village of 
Ruiloba. The bay of Lnaiia, formerly a little fishing-port, 
is now obstructed with sands, that form a clean, extensive 
beach, conspicuous from a distance. A small river descends 
through a ravine over the beach to the sea. To the east¬ 
ward of point Ruiloba, and the rocks which surround it, 
fishing-craft find shelter from winds from NVV. to SW. A 
vessel under the necessity of running ashore to save the 
crew, should select the middle of Luana beach at high 
water, if possible, or on the ebb. This is the only beach of 
much extent between Comillas and San Martin de la 
Arena. 

Coast. From San Vicente de Luana the coast runs northeast¬ 

ward, low but increasing in height, to Carrastrada imiiit, 2 
miles distant. This point is quite salient, with outlying rocks, 


COAST. 


93 


and on its western side there is a little bight, with a clean 
sandy bottoai in the center, bat rocky about the shore. 

Thence the coast, rugged, and with ravines, trends E. by 
N. 2 miles to Calderon point, low, rocky, and salient, and 
commanded, by high land. The point is subdivided into 
two, one projecting to NE. and the other to NW., and these 
respectively afford shelter from westerly and easterly winds j 
the bottom is sandy, but the shore rocky. At a short dis¬ 
tance from the coast the soundings are 13 to 22 fathoms. 
To the NE. of the point the coast is higher and undulating; 
it is covered in places with vegetation, but is generally 
bare, showing the whitish rock of which it is formed. 

The church of San Pedro stands between the points of a 
hill near the sea shore, between the points of Garrastrada 
and Calderon, and is conspicuous for a moderate distance 
on account of its tower and its isolation. It is the church 
of a number of villages in the vicinity. On Calderon point 
is a well-defined conical hill, named Maorteo, which, in line 
with a similar peak a short distance inland, is a mark for 
Torriente bank. 

From Calderon point the coast increases in height to the 
beach of Santa Jus.ta, at the head of a little, foul bay. The 
chapel of Santa Justa stands on the shore close to the rocks 
on the western ^hore; at a short distan'ce eastward from 
this beach, and separated from it by a rocky ridge, on 
which are the remains of a watch-tower, is the beach of Las 
Arenas, more extensive, but equally foul. 

Ballota, locally called Negra point, is a remarkable, steep, 
black point, IJ miles NE. by N. from Santa Justa; it pro¬ 
jects northward; reefs extend from it, and Percebera rock, 
about the size of a ship’s launch, lies a short distance from 
its extremity, and dries at low water. There is a passage 
inside the rock for small craft, and outside it is steep-to, 
and may be approached boldly. 

From Ballota point the coast turns to the SE., and forms 
the bay of Carrera, that terminates at Dichoso point. A 
small, foul beach terminates at a little eminence about 85 
feet high, on which are the ruins of the watch-tower of 
BuCy. Outside the bay the bottom is clean and the water 
deep. 

Dichoso point, the W. point of entrance to San Martin 


Dichoso point. 


94 


SAN MARTIN DE LA ARENA INLET. 


(le la Arena, is low, barren, and of whitish rocks, with a 
rounded hill on it, called Alto del Dichoso, It is connected 
with the main by a low isthmus, so that when seen from 
any distance from the westward it appears like an island. 

Canto bank. A bank, about 20 yards in extent NW. and SE., lies 2 
miles NE. f N., nearly, from Dichoso point. There are 15 
and 16 fathoms water on the bank, with 25 to 28 fathoms 
between it and the point, decreasing to 17 fathoms near 
the point 5 outside of it the water deepens rapidly to 35,45, 
and 55 fathoms. It is named Canto bank, and in high winds 
there is a heavy sea on it, and it is necessary to give it a 
good berth. When it breaks on Luaiia and Torriente banks^ 
it breaks on the Canto also, and this is probably a part of 
the same submarine chain. 

lartindekAr^ entrance to San Martin de la Arena, or Suances inlet, 

is between Dichoso point on the W. and Cuerno point, dis¬ 
tant a little more than a mile E. by N. The true entrance, 
however, is between Afuera and Torco de Afuera points, 
and is less than half a mile wide; it is entirely open to the 
K, and the points of Dichoso and Torco afford but slight 
shelter from N W. and W. winds. The inlet is navigable for 
vessels of 13 feet draught as far as Eequejada, about 5 miles 
from the mouth, but the bar shifts so constantly in position 
and extent that it is inconvenient for vessels of more than 
10 feet. Inside the entrance large banks uncover at low 
water on either side, leaving a channel 100 to 200 yards 
wide, with a generally muddy bottom. The shores are low 
and undulating, the table-land, named Meseta de- Corti- 
guera, being the highest; both shores are covered with 
woods and meadows, and scattered with villages and farm¬ 
houses ; the most important village of the inlet is Suances, 
on a height on the western shore ; this is the first village in 
entering, contains about 550 inhabitants, and is the resi¬ 
dence of the pilots, the marine authorities, and the health 
officer. 

Eequejada, near which is the principal anchorage, is a 
small village, with large granaries, which give it an impos¬ 
ing appearance, and the view of the cultivated fields, the 
villages, woods, and hills, from this point, is very beautiful. 
Foreign vessels having grain and railway materiel proceed 
here to discharge, but no other description of merchandise 


\r Sail Cosine . S.66° W 



Cape Ovhainbre S 61“^ Di?t 6 m'les Sau Ticente de la Barquera . 


Ton-ejon . lidht Church of Suances. 



W Point of Conejos I** S.30°£ Dist.l mile. hilet of San Martin de la Arena. Point Torco ileAfuera. Ata lap del Buev SWYl 

















Point San Juan del Cana 


N"44. 























SUANCES LIGHT. 


95 


is allowed to be disembarked j vessels arriving in ballast 
discharge it at Snances. At the Reqnejada anchorage there 
are 12 and 13 feet water, mud, at low tide. 

Every gale and every freshet of the river changes the 
bar; when the latter is strong the water forces itself through 
the sand, and a cbannel G or 7 feet deep is formed, while a 
gale from the northward accumulates the sands so that they 
dry at low water. When the navigable part of the bar 
is near point Torco de Afuera, after passing the bar with 
cross-winds, great care is necessary to keep the channel, 
which turns to ESE. to Marzan point, as the sea sweeps 
over the banks, setting the vessel toward them. The aver¬ 
age depth of water over it at low spring-tides is about 2 feet j 
and as there is always a small lift of the sea on the bar, a 
vessel entering should allow 4 or 5 feet for her descend. 

The bar may be taken with all winds except those from SE. 
through S. to SW., whenever the state of the tide and sea 
permit. When there is a heavy freshet, which will be 
known by the discoloration of the water some distance out¬ 
side, the entrance should not be attempted on account of 
the strength of the stream. A vessel of any size should 
take a pilot, who will go out to meet her, or, if the sea do 
not admit of this, will board her within the bar. 

The Saja and Besaya rivers discharge so much water into Saja and Be- 

. saya rivers. 

the inlet during the rainy season that it overcomes the 
stream of the flood and renders it difficult for a vessel to 
make way against it. 

Vessels after crossing the bar that cannot reach Reque- cantos anchor- 
jada anchorage on one tide may come to at Cantos anchor- 
age off the harbor-master’s house, beyond Hornillo point, on 
the western shore. Water may be obtained near Cantos 
landing or at Requejada. 

On point Torco de Afuera there is a white, conical tower Light: Lat .430 

^ 26' 50" N. ; long. 

30 feet high, with green lantern, and attached to the keep- 4 ® oo' 56" w. 
er’s dwelling, from which there is displayed, at an elevation 
of 118 feet above the sea, a fixed ivhite light, visible 7 miles 
in clear weather. 

It is high water, full and change, at San Martin de la Tides. 

Arena inlet at 3^ 5 springs rise 11 to 12 feet, and neaps 7 
feet j there is an increase of 1 or 2 feet in the rise, with 
winds from SW. to NW., and a corresponding decrease with 


96 


PILOTS—SIGNALS. 


Pilots. 


Signals. 


Directions. 


winds from the opposite direction. The velocity of the 
stream at springs is about 4 miles an hour between Atal- 
aya and Marzan points, and it follows the direction of the 
channel; this velocity is considerably augmented during 
freshets. 

Pilotage is obligatory on vessels of more than 50 tons. 

It has been stated that a pilot goes out to meet a vessel ap¬ 
proaching ; if this is impracticable, signals are made by one 
of the pilots from the Atalaya, a small green hillock about 
55 feet high, the first point on the western side within the 
entrance. 

From the Atalaya the bar and channel are distinctly 
seen, and a white flag is used to communicate with the ves¬ 
sel, which must pay careful attention to the signals. While 
the flag is held upright the vessel is to keep on her course, 
but if pointed to left or right steer in that direction until 
the flag is again upright. AVheii the bar is crossed a pilot 
boards and takes charge of the vessel. If there is too much 
sea 01 ) the bar, or too little water, the flag is waved from 
side to side, and the vessel should stand ofl’j if on returning 
to the entrance the flag is held stationary, the vessel may 
enter, but her draught and the state of the tide should be 
considered. Although there is no extra charge for the 
atalayeroj or signal-man, it is usual to pay him 20 reals as a 
gratuity. 

The position of Suances inlet is easily determined at a 
considerable distance. If the low coast-land cannot be made 
out, and the high lauds of the interior are clear, the peak 
of Viernoles, 1,600 feet above the sea, S. J E. from the en- v 
trance, is a good distant mark. If nearer the coast the 
beach and heights of Liencres, the peak of Mogro and Cone¬ 
jos island, are good marks eastward of the inlet, while to 
the westward are the high, steep point of Ballota, the table¬ 
lands of Cortiguera, the light-tower, and the heights, 400 
feet above the sea, on which stand the village and church 
of Suances- (Views 43 and 44.) On a near approach, the 
sands at the entrance to the inlet will be seen, with Torco 
castle, the remains of a lookout on Dichoso point, and the 
ruins of the Torrejon, an ancient tower, on a little hill at the 
middle of the inlet. The western point of entrance and the 
extremity of Conejos island may be boldly approached, but 


SUANCES ISLAND. 


97 


if necessary to tack to reach the bar, Cuerno point should 
be given a good berth on account of the rocks off it. 

Cuerno point, which limits the inlet to the E., is moder- Cueruo point, 
ately high, falling gradually to the sea on the northern side, 
and terminating in a reef that connects it with Demetria 
island j off the western part of the point are several reefs 
and rocks, the farthest out being Joaquina and Xarillo 
rocks. Between point Cuerno and Afuera point, the near¬ 
est the bar is IJmbrera point, separating this portion of the 
inlet into two bays scattered with rocks, many of which un¬ 
cover at low water. The western bay is the larger, and 
contains a small beach, named Patrocinio; the shore of the 
other is steep rock. 

The Suances are a group of five islands In. of Cuerno Suancesislands, 
point, and tho largest and farthest out is Cabrera, or Cone¬ 
jos island; it is 400 yards long E. and W., and 100 yards 
wide; is steep on all sides, difficult of access, and highest 
toward the eastern end, where it attains an elevation of 175 
feet. When seen from the westward it appears small and 
square from being end-on, and it is a good mark for the in¬ 
let. It is steep-to, and the only dangers near it are some 
rocks close to its southern side. The W. point of this isl¬ 
and is about one-third of a mile NW. J X. from Cuerno 
point. 

Between Conejos island and Cuerno point is Demetria 
island, low, rugged, and surrounded by reefs; there is a 
clear, narrow channel between these two islands, carrying 

to 51 fathoms water, but no channel between Demetria 
and the point, except for the smallest craft at high water. 

The three other islands, Casilda, Seguuda, and Solita, 
are rocky islets lying E. of Demetria, with channels between 
them for small craft. 

From Cuerno point a rocky, broken coast runs south- Coast, 
eastward to the small clear beach of Usgo, and then east¬ 
ward to Aguila point, with an islet off it 1 mile E. | S. from 
Cuerno point. East of this point is the mouth of the 
Pas or Mogro river, a small stream whose bar dries at low 
water; the bar is only practicable for boats. The village 
of Mogro is on the northern slope of the peak of the same 
name; this is a little conical peak with an attitude of 535 
7 N c 



98 


COAST. 


feet, isolated, and a good mark for the inlet of San Martin 
de la Arena. 

At miles ENE. J E. from Guerno point is point Somo- 
cueva, and between them the coast forms a bay, in which 
are the extensive sands of Val-de-Arena or Liencres, com¬ 
mencing at Aguila point and terminating at that of Somo- 
cueva; it is also called Arenas Gordas, from its similarity 
to the sands of that name between Sanhicar and Huelva. 
This beach is of reddish color, and extends in from the shore 
and about 165 feet up the slope of the heights of Liencres, 
and can be seen at a distance of 15 miles. It is a good 
mark for this part of the coast j it is, however, of little ad¬ 
vantage to a vessel obliged to run ashore, for though it is 
clean and level, the breakers extend a long way out. 

Above the beach, between the peak of Mogro and Somo- 
ciieva point, rise the heights of Liencres. (View 44.) They 
are of dark color, extend miles NNE. and SSW., and in 
the southern part are two well-defined peaks, forming a 
saddle, the southern peak being the higher and rising 695 
feet above the sea. The town of Liencres, remarkable by its 
higli church-tower, is at the foot of the heights on the north¬ 
ern side. The heights form a good mark for Santander, as 
they are the only high land near the sea between Suances 
and Santander, and cannot be mistaken. 

Somocueva, also called Liencres, point extends westward, 
and on its southern side there'is a little cove or bay of the 
same name, terminating in a clean beach. Fishing-craft 
find shelter in it during NE. winds. It might also be pos¬ 
sible for a vessel embayed between Somocueva point and 
Suances to make this bay if unable to double the point, and 
life at least might be saved. The mariner is warned not to 
mistake, in thick weather, the bay of Val-de-Arena for the 
entrance to Santander inlet, by taking Mogro peak for that 
of Oavada, and the Liencres for the Puntal sands eastward 
of cape Mayor. 

From Somocueva point the coast trends eastward a short 
distance, and then northward to point San Juan del Canal, 
distant miles j this extent of coast is low, broken, and 
cliffy, with occasional sandy beaches. It is fronted at a 
short distance off shore by a chain of pyramidal and conical 
.rocks that leave channels for boats between and inshore of 



SAN PEDRO DEL MAR POINT. 


99 


them; but outside them the bottom is foul, and large ves¬ 
sels should give them a wide berth j they are named Urros 
de Liencres. 

On the eastern side of the steep point of San Juan del nayofsaujuan 
Canal there is a little bay extending in to SW., and ter- ^ ‘ 

minating in a beach used as a boat-harbor with westerly 
winds, when the sea is* smooth. The church of San Juan 
.is on a height at the head of the bay, somewhat back from 
the shore; a few houses are scattered nearer the shore, and 
the remains of a look-out are seen on the highest part of 
the point. 

At about a mile E. | N. from the extremity of San Juan 
del Canal point is a low, rocky islet connected with the 
main by a bridge; its greatest extent is NE. and SW,, and 
it takes its name from the hermitage of Nuestra Senora del 
Mar, which is on its summit. The coast between the point 
and islet is foul. 

At IJ miles E. by N. from the islet is the low, rugged inlet of Ran 
point of San Pedro del Mar, and E. of it is a small 
bay of the same name, with a sandy beach and with a bat¬ 
tery on its eastern point. From the W. part of the bay the 
narrow inlet of San Pedro del Mar extends in to the west¬ 
ward, in which fishing-craft take shelter during winds from 
KE. to E.; but with any sea from the NW. it cannot be en¬ 
tered, as the sea then breaks on the bar, which is of rock. 

There is a water-mill in the inlet, and the boats which go 
up to it at high water lie there in safety. 

A rocky bank, named Cabezo de San Pedro del Mar, 
considerable extent B. and W., lies miles from shore off 
San Pedro del Mar. It has 10 to 12 fathoms water on it at 
low tide, and 20 fathoms between it and the coast. The 
sea often breaks over it and near it, and a vessel should 
either give it a good berth or pass inside it. From the 
least water (10 fathoms) on it Santander light bears ESE., 
the hermitage of Xuestra Senora del Mar SW. | S., and the 
W. point of Conejos island WSW. | W. The roof of the 
hermitage of Virgen del Mar is on with the middle of the 
road to Santander, both objects a little to the W. of the 
peak of Viernoles, and Conejos island appears within Bal- 
lota point. 


100 


CAPE MAYOR. 


Cape Mayor. 


At two-thirds of a mile KE. by E. f E. from point San 
Pedro del Mar is Oortada point, and at the same distance 
farther eastward is cape Lata, with Ansion islet off its 'NW. 
part and a boat-channel between. 

All this extent of coast is low and rocky, but higher 
toward the interior, forming a long and even range as far 
as cape Mayor. An inner range running E. and W., named 
the Alameda Alta de Santander, the village of Gueto, and 
a number of houses and buildings are seen, and above these 
ridges the Peiia Castillo, 396 feet high, rises from the shore 
of Santander inlet. 

From cape Lata the coast runs eastward, rising gradually 
to cape Mayor, 200 feet high, clean and steep-to. 



CHAPTER IV. 

FROM CAPE MAYOR TO SANTURRARAN POINT. 

Variation m 1876.—Santona, 18° 45' westerly; Bilbao, 18° 35' westerly. 

Cape Mayor, the western point of entrance to Santander Mayor, 
inlet, terminates to the NE. in a high point, called Pico del 
Gallo or Morro, though the former name is sometimes given 
to a steep W. of the light-house on this iioint. The coast 
from Somocueva to cape Mayor should be given a wide 
berth, especially if not bound to Santander, for the 20- 
fathom line is 2 miles from shore, and the sea from NW. 
breaks a long way out. Even to a depth of 30 fathoms the 
sea is apt to be very heavy. 

From cape Mayor the coast trends southward for about 
half a mile, to cape Menor, which projects eastward in a low 
point, terminating in a short reef. There is a battery on 
the summit of the cape. 

Santander inlet, forming the best port on the N. coast of 
Spain E. of cape Ortegal, runs in 5 miles to the SW. and 
appears like a large lake at high water; but when the tide 
is out large banks of sand, mud, and weed uncover, leaving 
channels between, the best being that which follows the 
northern shore of the inlet to the town of Santander, where 
it turns to the S. and extends to the village of Guarnizo. 

This channel, the real port of Santander, is 300 to 600 yards 
wide, and is navigable almost throughout for large vessels, 
as it carries If to fathoms at low water. The entrance 
to the inlet is between cape Mayor and Santa Marina island, 

2J miles ESE. 

Point Oaballo, 1 mile SSE. | E. from cape Menor, is steep 
and salient to NE. The coast retreats between the cape 
and point to form the bay of Sardinero that terminates in 
a clean, level beach, and forms a fair-weather anchorage 
for vessels awaiting daylight or a favorable tide. The best 
anchorage for large vessels is 400 to 600 yards from cape 


102 


COAST. 


Menor, with it in line with cape Mayor, in 8 to 10 fathoms 
water, sand j farther S. the bottom is of rock and stone. 
In making this anchorage when there is much sea from 
lifW. a good berth should be given cape Menor, as the sea 
often breaks a considerable distance from it. Vessels should 
never anchor here if there is any prospect of a NE. wind 
setting in. There are three batteries on the shore of the 
bay •, and on Ano point, eastward of Caballo, there is a tel¬ 
egraph and signal station, on the site of the old castle of 
Ano. 

At one-third of a mile SE. by S. from Caballo point is 
point Puerto, low and rocky, but with a rugged eminence 
rising from it, on which are seen the remains of a fort; be¬ 
tween these points the coast presents a rocky front to NE., 
and between this front and Monro island is the channel 
of entrance to the port. 

Monro, sometimes called Mogro, island lies about half a 
mile ENE. J E. from Caballo point; it is rugged, nearly 
circular, less than 200 yards in diameter, and about 90 feet 
high, with a light-tower on it. (Views 45 and 46.) During 
a gale from N. or NW. the island is enveloped in spray. It 
is steep-to on the N. and E., but a bank with 4J fathoms 
at its edge extends for 400 to 600 yards S. and SW. of itj 
and at 100 yards E. of the island is the small rocky islet of 
Corvera ; there are 2J fathoms in the channel between, but 
three rocks lie in this channel. 

From Puerto point, on which there is a light-house, the 
coast runs SW. for 300 yards, and at about the middle of 
this extent is Cerda castle. The coast then bends north¬ 
ward to form a bay that terminates at Promontory point, 
WSW. i W. from the castle and three fourths of a mile 
distant. This point is of moderate height, rocky and steep- 
to, so that it may be boldly approached. The bay is full 
of rocks 5 close to the shore, and joined to it at low water, 
is Latorre islet, low, and divided into two parts united by 
a natural bridge; a tower stands on the southern part of 
the islet; there is shoal water all around it, and at 150 yards 
S W. of it there is a rocky bank with 8 feet water on it. At 
a little more than 200 yards SE. of Latorre, and between 
500 and 6u0 yards SW. f W. from point Puerto, is a smaller 
islet, named Horadada, pierced through so as to resemble two 


I^ico del Oalli* or Morro ot‘(\Mav<>r. 


ii'-' ' 'V 




Vy. 



Vuiilal Sands 


Moui'o Island ^uid Liebt 


Light. S.2l*E Dial. 3H nul^s 

Cape Mayor. 


Cabar^a 


NV 4(>- 



Corva*ra laiel 


Mouro I** and Lidht S.30‘^’E 
Dist ^ of a mile. 


l\uilai Sands. 


Cabada IHU ( U-ads u.) Foint I’uerto l.V Ho. not shown tn. skodoh,) 


Mould Santofij 




N? 47. 





Cape ijuejo . 


Cape Ajo. 


Cape ijluintros S.b3^K.l)iBt H miles 





















































SANTANDER. 


103 


rocks connected by a stone bridge. ‘ There is but little 
depth of water around it. A white tower marks the islet. 

Two shoal spots lie southward of Latorre islet; the far¬ 
thest, with 2J fathoms on it, being in line with Horadada 
islet and the Ifght-house on Puerto point. 

Point San Martin, with a castle of the same name on its 
summit, is the next prominent point WSW. from Promon- 
torio, and on its western side are five rocks, called the Her- 
manas. Between these points is a shallow bight COO yards 
wide, with a number of rocks in it. 

Alto de Miranda is a hill 280 feet high in rear of point 
San Martin. The village of Miranda is on its summit. 

The mole of Santander commences at a little more than 
half a mile W. of San Martin point; it is solid and well 
paved, is more than 600 yards long in a W. by S. direction, 
and terminates in a recess named the Darsena or basin; 
at its eastern extremity is a smaller basin, called the little 
port.^^ A handsome line of houses extends along the rear 
of the mole facing south; and the captain of the port’s res¬ 
idence, the health-office, and custom-house are situated on 
the mole. 

Westward of the Darsena are three jetties at the end of 
Maliano quay, which extend thence for three-fourths of a 
mile southwestward, to the entrance to the proposed new 
basin, opening from the main channel. 

The city of Santander, and capital of the province of the 
same name, is well built, and extends northward and west¬ 
ward on the sides of two small hills crowned with trees, 
which contribute to its picturesque effect; an elm-planted 
road surrounds the entire city; in the more ancient quarter 
the streets are straight and narrow, and the houses lofty, 
while in the modern the streets are spacious, and the houses 
of moderate height but good architecture. There are a 
number of public buildings, educational and charitable in¬ 
stitutions, and places of amusement. The cathedral stands 
on the summit of the hill that runs along the shore of the 
inlet, at the foot of which commences the line of rail to Cas¬ 
tile, the only line in N. Spain just now in use. There is 
steam communication with England, France, Malaga, and 
Cadiz. A cigar manufactory, employing about 1,0C0 per¬ 
sons, occupies the suppressed nunnery of Santa Cruz, and 


Santander. 


104 


MALIANO POINT. 


Pena Castillo. 


Maliano point. 


in all ways Santander appears to be a busy, thriving, and, 
at the same time, a cheap and well-provided place, contain¬ 
ing all the resources looked for in a commercial port. The 
fish, both of sea and fresh water, are plentiful and excellent. 
Water is obtained alongside from tanks and from fountains 
at the mole. Coal can now only be obtained at Santander 
or Pasages. A great portion of the trade of the city is 
with Cuba. In 1872, 392 ships entered and left the port, 
with tonnage 114,165, besides tonnage 93,837 of coasters. 
The imports consist chiefly of sugar, cocoa, textile fabrics, 
salted codfish, pitch, tobacco, &c. j exports, iron and cop- 
X)er ores, quicksilver, cobalt, wheat, wool, olive-oil, and flour. 
Population, about 30,000 in 1874. 

At the wooden jetty, where almost all of the warehouses 
are collected, the larger class of vessels can make fast at 
high water, smaller craft only being able to make fast to the 
mole at high water, and they lie aground when the tide is 
out. Vessels in the stream moor with the longer scope to 
the southern anchor. The southerly gales of the winter 
frequently i)revent communication with shore, boats being 
unable to land on account of the high sea breaking against 
the quays. 

The shore of the inlet still trends westward after passing 
the mole of Santander, and at two miles from the city and 
near the water's edge rises a hill, named Pena ^Castillo; it 
extends nearly half a mile E. and W., and is 396 feet high j 
from the eastward it appears like a conical peak. 

From here the coast turns to southward, and then east¬ 
ward to Maliano point, 2^ miles S. | W. from the elbow of 
the mole; the large bay W. of the line joining these two 
IDoints is almost completely choked with banks that dry at 
low water, and leave but a few narrow and tortuous chan¬ 
nels between. 

The dock-yard and village of Guarnizo are nearly IJ miles 
S. of Maliano point, the coast between bending to the west¬ 
ward to form a considerable bay, almost entirely obstructed 
by banks of mud and sand. Beyond Guarnizo the channel 
is narrow and shoal, although it receives the waters of the 
Puente Solia river, an unimportant stream. A number of 
villages are scattered over all the northern coast of the inlet 
above described. 



COAST. 


105 


Opposite Guarnizo is Pontejos point, and the channel be- 
tween is 100 yards wide. Lazareto island'is about 1 mile to 
the northward, and near it is the quarantine anchorage. 

The coast thence trends NE. and NW. to Acebo point, a 
little more than 1 mile NE. by E. from Lazareto island, and 
at about one-fourth of a mile WNW. of the point is the 
islet of Mornay; the bay between these islands is choked 
by the sands. From Acebo to Pedrena point, IJ miles far¬ 
ther NE. 1 N., there is a low extent of coast, called Ruballo, 
and a wooded hill E. of Pedrena point, Alto de Ruballo, or 
Gastrajon, forms one of the marks in entering. The sands 
between Mornay islet and Pedrena point extend for 1^ miles 
to northwestward from the islet, and border the main chan¬ 
nel, taking at this point the name of Bergantin bank. Cu- 
bas river, sometimes called Miera, is a sluggish stream in 
the dry season, but in the wet season freshets come down 
that seriously affect the contour of the banks. The mouth 
of its channel through the sands opens almost S. of Prom¬ 
ontory point, and the current is often a dangerous obstacle 
to a vessel endeavoring to tack in its vicinity. Santa Ma¬ 
rina island, the N. point of which is the E. point of entrance 
to the inlet, is nearly miles NE. by E. from Pedrena 
point, where there is a landing-place. The island is low and 
covered with brush; it is 800 yards long N. and S., and is 
joined to the main land by the sands. Between the island 
and point the Gubas river disembogues, and northward of 
the river the extensive sands of Puntal extend nearly E. 
and W., and limit the channel and port of Santander on the 
south. 

Quebrantas bank, sometimes called Puntal de Latas, is a q uebrautaa 
dangerous shoal with 1 to 3 fathoms water on it, stretching 
northward 800 yards from the middle of the sands of Puntal, 
in the direction of Mouro islet j between this islet and the 
I)oint off the bank there is a channel half a mile wide, car¬ 
rying 3^ to 7 fathoms. The extremity of this shoal lies 
with the castle of San Martin on with Horadada islet, and 
the hill of cape Mayor on with the \V. point of Mouro islet. 

The peak of Gavada, cajled Gudio by the pilots, is a coni- Cavatiapeak. 
cal hill 830 feet high, and rises S. J E. from Mouro islet, oi 
miles distant. It is easily known by its peculiar form and 
the dark color of the woods that cover it, and when in line 


lOG 


SANTANDER LIOHTS. 


with the Alto de Kuballo is a mark for crossing the bar. 
(View 4G.) 

Mountcabarga. Mouiit Cabarga, ranging E. and W., a short distance west¬ 
ward of the above, is 1,970 feet in height, and is another 
mark for the port of Santander. (View 46.) 

Lights: Lat .430 On the summit of cape Mayor there is a circular white 

29 ' 30 " N • louii At/ ^ ^ 

30 47'36'w. light tower 101 feet high, which displays, at an elevation of 
298 feet above high water, a white light revolving every min¬ 
ute^ and visible 20 miles in clear weather. The eclipses are 
not total within 8 miles. A blue flag hoisted on the light¬ 
house by day, indicates that the steam tug cannot put to 
sea. 

Lat. 430 28 ' 24" At 14 yards from the N. shore of Mouro islet a conical 

S tower i:)ainted white, with red balcony, rises from the center 

of the keeper’s dwelling. The tower is 61 feet high and 
displays, at an elevation of 136 feet above high water, a 
fixed u'liite light, visible 12 miles in clear weather. 

Lat. 43° 28 ' 13" On point Puerto, 110 yards from Cerda castle, there is a 

fo" w”°^’ ^ square brick tower 45 feet’nigh and attached to the keeper’s 
dwelling, from which is exhibited, at an elevation of 79 feet 
above the sea, sl fixed green light with tvhite sector, visible 4 
miles in clear weather. The sector of 5^ of white light 
covers Horadada islet. 

Lat. 43° 27' 52 " On the SW. angle of the office of the captain of the 
port, at the end of Calderon mole, there i^ a rectangular 
tower of a dark-straw color, with brass lantern, from which 
there is displayed a fixed red light, visible 3 miles in clear 
weather. The light is at an elevation of 18 feet above the 
land, and 29J feet above the level of the sea, and is visible 
through an arc of 153° 30', from point San Martin (which 
bears E. from the light) around by the S., embracing all the 
bay with the exception of that portion obscured by the cas¬ 
tle and point of San Martin. 

Signal-station. The signal-station on Ano point is on the site of the cas¬ 
tle of Ano and communicates with vessels by means of the 
international code. The apparatus consists of a mast and 
yard, and near it is placed the keeper’s dwelling, which is 
painted in black and white horizontal bands. In connec¬ 
tion with the signal-station is a telegraph-office, whence 
dispatches may be sent to any part of the peninsula. The 
tariff of messages between vessels and the station is 2 pesetas 


TIDES—PILOTS. 


107 


for the first twenty words, and 1 peseta for each additional 
ten words or fraction thereof. A further charge is made 
for the transmission of messages by the electric telegraph. 

. It is high water, full and change, at the bar of Santan¬ 
der at 3^ 5 springs rise 12 feet, and neaj)s 8 feet, and, as in 
all the other ports of the N. coast of Spain, NW. and SW. 
gales produce an increase in the rise of 1 or 2 feet, and 
contrary winds a corresponding decrease. The ebb-stream 
runs stronger than the flood, and has a velocity of 3 to 5 
miles an hour at springs; at the mouth of the harbor a 
branch of it turns to the SE., toward the bay S. of Santa 
Marina island, and careful account of this should be taken 
in working out. In the rainy season the strength of the 
ebb-current is considerably augmented, making the entrance 
difficult for a vessel without a strong fair wind. The tides 
and winds constantly affect the banks, so that the older 
charts are not to be depended upon. Three buoys mark 
the edge of the banks south of the channel between Mouro 
islet and San Martin point, and’three red buoys mark the 
western limit of Bergantin bank abreast the town. 

There are also three mooring-buo^’S at the different an¬ 
chorages, and several beacons mark the banks after the 
town is passed. The dredging of the port recommenced 
in 1873, so even the latest chart may be incorrect in regard 
to shoal spots in the channel. 

The pilots are a well-organized staff, well up to their 
work; in fine weather they board vessels off cape Mayor, 
but in bad weather wait under the lee of Puerto point, and 
guide the vessel through the entrance channel by the usual 
signals with a flag. A steam-tug goes out to tow a ship in 
or to render assistance when signaled for; if she cannot 
go out, a blue flag is hoisted at the cape Mayor light house. 
Pilotage is obligatory on vessels of more than 50 tons. An 
illegal charge of 20 reals, as gratuity to pilot’s boat and 
crew for assistance, is often made, and another of 4 reals as 
signalman’s fee. Other overcharges are frequently made 
for custom-house forms, &c., and masters of vessels are 
recommended to show their accounts to their consul to 
avoid being put to unnecessary expense. 

Vessels under quarantine pay one-fourth real per register 
ton per day. This, on a vessel of 800 tons, is $10 a day. 


Tides. 


Pilots. 


Quarantine. 


108 


DIRECTIONS. 


Marks. 


Directions 


Vessels having to iierform a quarantine of “observation” 
can do so here. 

In approaching from the westward, the position of San¬ 
tander will be recognized by the long reddish-white sands of 
Liencres or Val de-Arena on the western slope of Liencres 
hill, rising 7 miles westward of the entrance, Conejos or 
Suances island, and Ballota point; and from the eastward 
by the sharp contours of mount Santona and capes Quejo, 
Ajo, and Quintres. (View 47.) The high lands of the in¬ 
terior are not good marks, as the mountains are much alike 
in appearance, and are often hidden by mist and clouds. 
On a nearer approach cape Mayor will be recognized, as it 
is higher than the other headlands and has a light house on 
its summit. Mouro island with its light-house will then be 
seen, with the sands of Puntal and the conical peak of Ca- 
vada; the town cannot be seen from seaward. 

It is of the utmost importance for a vessel from the west¬ 
ward, with a fresh breeze from that quarter, to close the 
coast and make out the land, so as to be certain of her po¬ 
sition. With any sea, if near the coast, the San Pedro del 
Mar (page 99) should be avoided. During southerly winds 
the coast is clear, but with those from SW. or NW., when 
blowing hard, it is generally obscured. With the wind 
from the eastward, between ENE. and SE., a vessel may 
pass on either side of Mouro island, but large vessels from 
the westward, with wind from NNW. to NE., should enter 
by the western channel, called the bar, at half-flood. With 
and W. winds high breakers prevent the entrance E. of 
Mouro island, and the western channel is then dangerous 
for sailing-vessels, and, as the channel turns sharply to the 
W. at Puerto point, skill and great care are necessary. 

As the banks shift considerably, the following directions 
for entering must not be too implicitly relied upon : To en¬ 
ter by the western channel, steer in with Oavada peak in 
line with the middle of Euballo hill (View 46) until Puerto 
point is passed and Horadada islet is in one with Promon- 
torio point; then steer for Peiia Castillo, passing Horadada 
islet at about 100 yards, and, when the light on Calderon 
quay is sighted open of point San Martin, steer for it; pass 
the point at the distance of about 100 yards, if bound for 
the town, and follow the channel (or head WSW. until mid- 



DIRECTIONS. 


109 


way between San Martin point and the little port, and then 
WNW.) to the anchorage within the office of the captain of 
the port. Vessels may anchor southward of Promontorio 
point, or, if necessary, in any part of the channel westward 
of Puerto point. The usual man-of-war anchorage is in 
to 4J fathoms water, southwestward of San Martin point, 
with Cerda castle in one with the point of Santa Marina 
island. Vessels should moor as before directed. 

Should the wind be from the westward and the tide flood, 
when the Peua Castillo is well open of Horadada islet, a 
vessel may back and fill up to the anchorage with her head 
to the northward, bearing in mind that two-thirds of the 
way across the channel the tide sets to SW. With an 
ebb tide a sailing-vessel had better anchor off Sardinero 
beach. In a NW. gale it is imjjrudent for a large vessel to 
run for Santander if she can keep the sea. It is better to 
remain outside and to windward of the port, bearing in 
mind that the easterly current sometimes attains the rate 
of 3 miles an hour. A vessel unable to keep the sea may 
try the anchorage off Sardinero beach, attempt the entrance 
to Santander, or run for the i)ort of Santona. The Sardi¬ 
nero anchorage is not good with winds N. of NW. With a 
more northerly wind a heavy swell rolls in, and vessels 
already anchored here often have to slip and get under way 
to avoid parting their cables; as, during a heavy NW. sea, 
it breaks on the bar, the latter cannot be taken until 4 or 5 
hours flood, and then with a fresh and fair wind. 

Vessels generally leave the port with the land-wind in 
the morning, even with a flood-tide, but a vessel may leave 
with a foul wind and ebb-tide by backing and filling. To 
insure getting well out, it is well to drop down previously 
to one of the outer anchorages. The pilot and assistance 
fees are the same in leaving as in entering the port. 

Near Santa Marina island commences the coast of Langre, 
rather high, level, and steep to seaward, trending eastward 
and terminating at point Langre. The little beach of Ser- 
rera lies between the island and the point, and the village 
of Langres stands a little back from the coast. 

From Langres point the coast trends NE. to cape Galizano, 
cliffy and steep to seaward. The cape rises in terraces in¬ 
land to the remarkable sharp peak of Galizano, which is E. 


Langre point. 


Coast. 


110 


COAST. 


I S. from the light-house ou cape Mayor, distant 4J miles. 
Beyond the cape is the clean, smooth beach of the same 
name, very similar to Sardinero beach. Fishing-craft an¬ 
chor off it during SW. winds. The Galizano river empties 
at the eastern end of the beach, and its bar is only practi¬ 
cable for small craft at high water. The town of the same 
name stands on the river-bank. Eastward of the river the 
coa^ is low and rocky along the shore, but mountainous 
in the interior. It increases in height to cape Quintres, 
which is high and level, and rises vertically from the water’s 
edge. (View 47.) From cape Quintres the coast still trends 
northeastward to cape Ajo, sometimes called cape Cuberris, 
about 2 miles distant. The coast of the bay between is 
bold, and near the middle of it a small stream empties. 
This cape is the northernmost projection of the Cantabrian 
coast between Kivadesella and the French boundary. Seen 
from E. or W. it,rises in steps from the sea, and is like cape 
Quejo, and lower than Quintres. It is miles E. by N., 
nearly, from cape Mayor light, and is clean and steep-to. 

The little river Ajo empties through a small beach east¬ 
ward of the cape, and can only be entered at high water 
by small craft that go as high as the village of Ajoj this 
village is on a plain southward of the cape and a little in¬ 
land, and has a population of about 700. 

From cape Ajo the coast bends to southeastward and 
tlien to ENE. to the rugged, reddish-colored cape of Quejo, 
E. by S. from the former, distant 3 short miles. In the mid¬ 
dle of the bay between is a little beach, the rest of the 
coast being low^, rock.y, and barren. The level and promi¬ 
nent appearance of tlie three capes, as seen from E. or W., 
is shown in views 47 and 50. Eastward of cape Quejo a 
low, rocky coast, broken by patches of foul beach, extends 
to Garfanta point; some isolated rocks lie near the shore, 
the largest, Isla, forming a shelter for hshing-craft in west¬ 
erly winds ; at high water there is a boat-channel between 
it and the shore, and on the rock there is a hermitage. 
The village of Isla is near the shore and SSE. of the <^ape, 
in the midst of trees and cultivated fields, and on the bank 
of a stream navigable for large boats at high water. Pop¬ 
ulation about 650. 





NOJA BAY. 


Ill 


Garfaiita poiut, commonly called Mesa de ^^oja, is IJ 
miles from cape Qaejo, and 3 miles NW., nearly, from 
Agiiila point, Santona mountain; it is level, rugged, and 
barren, projects to NE., and terminates in sunken rocks and 
reefs that extend some distance off it and should be given 
a good berth. 

Garfanta point is the western limit of Xoja bay that ex¬ 
tends eastward 2 miles, to Brusco point; its shore is low, 
rocky, and foul, with a flat beach scattered with rocks, the 
latter appearing at low water above the sand. Other rocks 
skirt the shore extending off half a mile, some uncovering 
and others having 1 to 3 fathoms over them at low water, 
and outside them the water is shoal. The .farthest out are 
the Hermanas or Liebres, three rocks forming a; triangle 75 
to 100 yards apart, that show at low tide. When there is any 
sea breakers extend to a considerable distance from the shore j 
hence the bay should be carefully avoided. The church of 
the town of Noja is conspicuous from seaward. The town 
is S. of Garfanta point in the middle of a plain, and not 
far from the shore. Population about 700. 

The dark, wooded mountain of Brusco rises at the south¬ 
ern end of Noja bay, and terminates at the sea in the point 
of the same name. The point is rocky and foul, and near 
it terminate the reefs that skirt Noja bay. (View 50.) 

Between Brusco point and mount Santona is a low, flat, 
sandy plain or isthmus, called the Berria sands. The beach 
is clean, but near Brusco point a few rocks uncover at low 
water. A road over the plain gives the inhabitants of Sau- 
tona a means of communication with the main land. 

Doble bank, called by the fishermen of Santona Gan- 
zanilla, is dangerous in a heavy sea, and lies 2J miles N. of 
the sands of Berria; it has 10 to 12 fathoms water on it, 16 
to 18 fathoms around it, 15 to 16^ fathoms between it and 
the shore, and 30 fathoms at 100 yards N. of it. From the 
least water on the bank the battery of Cueva bears S. f E.; 
Pescador point SSE. f E.; cape Machichaco E. J S.; and 
cape »Quejo W. J N. This brings mount Ano open W. of 
mount Brusco, and cape Ajo open a little of cape Quejo. 
Vessels bound to Santona in a NW. gale should be careful 
to avoid this bank, as there is not only a heavy sea in its 
vicinity, but, at times, it breaks. 


I 


Noja bay. 


Berria sands. 


Doble bank. 


112 


SANTONA MOUNTAIN. 


.santofiamount- Moiuit Santona is irregular in outline, SJ miles in circum- 
ference, and 1,340 feet high. It is of calcareous rock, broken 
toward the sea and covered with fertile soil that produces 
trees, vines, and some vegetables and grain. It has several 
peaks, of which Lucero is the highest. Eanzo or Escalera 
peak is the next in height, and then Nespral or Nisperal, 
conical, 943 feet high, with a circular atalaya or lookout 
tower on its summit. (View 49.) 

From any distance the mountain appears to be an island, 
and in reality it is so as the heavy seas break through the 
dike which joins it to the main, and the waters unite with 
those of the lagoons that surround Santona. Santona 
mountain is well fortified and almost impregnable, the old 
sailing directions comparing it favorably with Gibraltar, 
but the fortifications as a rule command only the land side 
and the road over Berria sands. The town of Santona is 
at the foot of the mountain on the western side; and the 
village of Dueso is on the NW. slope, with fortifications W. 
of it that command the land. Oueva battery is farther F”., 
and a little way only from Aguila or Atalaya point, the 
NVV. point of the mountain. This point rises vertically, 
and has a battery of the same name on its summit. Pesca- 
dor point, three-fourths of a mile ESE. from Atalaya point, 
is lower than the latter, and is salient to NE.; both are 
steep-to and may be boldly approached, and on Pescador 
point there is a light house. The coast of the mountain 
thence trends SE. four-fifths of a mile, to Gaballo point, 
rather low, salient and rocky, which has also a light house 
on its summit. In rear of the point are high cliffs, and at 
the highest point of the rocks is the battery of San Felipe. 
At two fifths of a mile S. of Gaballo is Fraile point, a verti¬ 
cal rock about 140 feet high, and partially detached from 
the mountain; a rock that uncovers at low water lies close 
to the shore SW. of the point, and a larger rock is seen a 
little farther in tlie same direction. At about 100 yards 
NE. 4 N. from the most projecting part of Fraile point is 
the bank of Merana, a circular rock awash at low water, so 
that the sea breaks on it with any swell; between it and 
the shore there are 2J to 3J fathoms, and close outside of 
it 3J to 4J fathoms water, sand. On the older charts this 
rock is shown too far out. 





SANTONA LIGHTS. 


113 


From Fraile point the coast trends SW. to Peon point, and 
then to San Oarlos point, a distance of nearly three-fourths 
of a mile. From Redonda rock a beach commences that 
borders the foot of the mountain as far as the port, and 
between Peon and San Oarlos points a bank is formed that 
extends some 400 yards to SE. with* 5 to 9 feet water on it. 

On San Carlos point is a fort mounting two tiers of guns. 

Thence the coast trends W. to Galvanes point, with a bat¬ 
tery on its summit, and WNW. to the point and fortress 
of San Martin. A little farther on is point Cruz, where the 
coast line turns abruptly to the N., and is lost in the marshes 
that border the town. 

On Pescador point of mount Santoiia there is a conical Lights: Lat.43° 

X . ... , , , 28'36"K; long. 

White tower with green lantern, rising from the keepers 3° 28'oa" w. 
dwelling, and 30 yards from the sea, from which is dis¬ 
played, at an elevation of 126 feet above sea-level, a fixed 
white light with a fiash every 3 minutes^ visible 17 miles in 
clear weather. Tlie tower is 44 feet high. 

On Caballo point, the E. extreme of mount Santoha, there Lat .430 28 ' 12 " 
is a conical stone tower, painted blue, with octagonal, green u"’w?°^’ ^ 
lantern, that exhibits, at an elevation of 85 feet, a fixed red 
light, visible 10 miles in clear weather. The tower is 24 feet 
high. The light is obscured from seaward when bearing 
eastward of S. ^ E., and is visible from that bearing around 
by W. to N. f 

The entrance to Santona inlet lies between the southern Santosa inlet, 
shore of mount Santona and the adjacent beach on the N., 
and the beach of Puntal del Pasage and the bank of Pi- 
torro, which extends from the sands of Laredo, on the south 
The inlet is divided into various channels, the principal and 
most navigable being that of Colindres on the S., after pass¬ 
ing Puntal point. It runs S. for more than 4 miles, and ter¬ 
minates near the village of Rada, the stream of this name 
emptying into it; it is navigable almost throughout for ves¬ 
sels of moderate draught, the soundings opposite Colindres, 
about 2J miles up, being 8 to 14 feet at low water, but at 
the entrance to Cicero channel there is a rocky bank with 
only 4 feet water on it. At 2J miles within the mouth of 
the Colindres, is that of the Limpias channel, which runs in 
nearly a mile to the E., to the village of the same name, 
and then turning to the S. to the villages of Marron and 

8 N c 


114 


SANTONA—PORT. 


Ampuero, where it terminates and receives the waters of 
the Marron river, an unimportant stream, but one whose 
freshets during the rainy season are very heavy. 

Limpias. The most important town in Santona inlet, on account of 

its communication with Castile, is that of Limpias, number¬ 
ing about 1,400 inhabikints; vessels of 11 to 13 feet draught 
load here with grain and flour j those above 13 feet draught 
complete their cargoes lower down, abreast the tower of 
Treto. The town has manufactories of iron and leather, and 
has considerable trade. 

Santona. Saiitoua, an entirely military town, stands on a sandy 

plain at the foot of mount Santona, with marshes to the 
northward of it and creeks to the westward. It has no in¬ 
ternal resources and its communication with the main is by 
the road over the sands of Berria. It is surrounded by 
trees and gardens, but has neither commerce nor industry. 
Population about 1,800. 

Port. The port of Sanfofia is good and well sheltered, being 

open only to the E.; the best anchorage is in 6 to fath¬ 
oms water, sand, off the battery of Isabel II, which is on 
the beach S. of the town, partly covered with trees, and 
!NNW. of Puntal del Pasage point. The channel is here 
one-quarter of a mile across and carries 3J to 4^ fathoms, 
which dex)th continues well within the Ano channel westward. 
This latter channel is another branch of the inlet, which, 
leaving the Colindres on the S., continues W. by S. to the 
towns ofBdrcenaand Escalante, but with little depth at low 
water. 

Mount Ano. Mouut Auo, 583 feet high, is of conical form resembling 
the peak of Oavada, of Santander, and is covered with thick 
woods. It is on the northern bank of the channel of the same 
name, and isolated by a small channel or dike that sur¬ 
rounds it. The convent of San Francisco de Ano stands 
on a mound at the foot of the mountain and on its SE. side. 
The summit of mount Ano is WSW. f W. from the battery 
of Isabel II, distant 1| miles, and both mountain and con¬ 
vent are marks in entering the port. (View 48.) 

Pnntai del Pas- The point of Puntal del Pasage is the northern extremity 
of the extensive sands of Laredo, that terminate at the town 
of this name 2 J miles SE. of the battery of Isabel II. The 
point is salient to the N., and on it may still be seen the 




BAR—TIDES. 


115 


i^mains of Pantal castle, one of the marks in entering, but 
which it is rather difficult to make out at first. 

Pitorro bank extends from Puntal point iu a SE. direc¬ 
tion for more than 1 mile, when its edge trends to the south¬ 
ward. At low water there are 3 to 6 feet on the shoalest 
part of the bank, increasing gradually to 9 and 11 feet on 
its outer part. This bank and that of San Carlos at the 
foot of mount Santona form the entrance to the inlet. 

The bar, or least navigable part of the entrance, lies be¬ 
tween the eastern end of Pitorro bank and Peon point; it is 
here about half a mile across, narrowing to 300 yards at 
Galvanes point. The least water on the bar at low-water 
springs is 10 to 17 feet up to Peon point, and then 10 and 
11 to the eastern part of Pitorro bank. Farther in the 
depth increases to 3 and 6 fathoms to the anchorage. The 
bar is of sand, and only off the points of San Carlos, Gal¬ 
vanes, and San Martin there are some rocks. The banks, 
however, are shifting, and little confidence should be placed 
in the accounts of width and depth of channel, or in the 
charts. 

It is high water, full and change, in Santona inlet at 3^; 
springs rise 11 to 12 feet. The ebb is always much stronger 
than the flood, running about 3 miles an hour at springs, 
which much facilitates leaving the port with easterly or 
NE. winds. When much rain falls the river Marron has 
heavy freshets, the ebb acquires considerable strength, and 
th5 current of Colindres channel disturbs the beach of San¬ 
tona; under these circumstances vessels should anchor far 
enough in to clear the mouth of the Colindres. In winter, 
it is well to lie near the Ano channel. 

The ebb stream on leaving the inlet sets SE. over Pitorro 
bank into Laredo bay. Vessels becalmed are in danger of 
being set on Kastrillar point, unless precautionary measures 
are used. The flood stream in entering follows the coast of 
Santona mountain, sets strong on Puntal point, and into 
the Colindres channel. 

Vessels obliged to work in should always take a pilot, as 
no turning marks can be given on account of the shifting 
contours of the banks; and pilotage is obligatory on vessels 
of more than 50 tons. Pilot charges are the same as those 
at Santander. Pilots go out to meet vessels approaching. 


Pitorro bank. 


Bar. 


Tides. 


Pilots. 


116 


DIRECTIONS. 


Directions. 


Vessels bound to Limi)ias, anchor off Santoiia, to deliver 
the papers; the pilotage from here to Limpias is 90 reals 
for a vessel of 50 to 150 tons, and 120 reals for one of 
greater tonnage. 

The inlet of Santona being open to the E. cannot, be en. 
tered during NW. winds, which are the most stormy on this 
part of the coast, and blow down over the mount in heavy 
squalls, for which sailing-vessels should be prepared. The 
most favorable winds for entering are from NNE. to SW. 
through E. With other winds that are moderate a vessel 
can work in, or back and fill with the flood. With NW. 
winds a vessel may run down under sail as far as Fraile 
point, but will then have to tow or steam, as the wind draws 
ahead. With a N. wind a vessel may reach Peon point, 
but the wind here draws out, making it impossible to enter 
under sail. A steamer may, however, enter by attending 
to the directions given below. There is anchorage south¬ 
ward of Fraile point? in 2 to 5 fathoms water, sand, whence 
with steam or a tug a vessel can get into the inlet. 

To enter the port with a fair wind bring the castle of 
San Carlos—the southernmost fortification on a high cliff 
at the foot of mount Santoiia—just open of mount Ano, 
until Fraile point comes on with Oaballo point, nearly N. 
of it, then steer SW. until the convent of San Francisco 
de Ano is in line with the ruins of the castle of Puntal del 
Pasage—the remains of a wall that will be seen between 
the small downs at the termination of the point and the sba* 
weed that partly covers it—and thence steer for the battery of 
Isabel II, and anchor off' it in 0 or 7 fathoms water, at about 
300 yards from the beach of Santoiia. In a large vessel 
with a scant or foul wind a pilot should always be taken, as 
the edges of the banks change and the channel is only 
known to those frequenting it. Vessels moor NE. and SW. 
The bottom between fort Isabel II and Cruz point is stiff 
clay, good holding-ground. The worst winds are from S. 
to W., which blow strong, and with a gale from this quarter 
another anchor should be let go, veering to a good scope to 
avoid being drifted on to the beach or out of the inlet, 
accidents that are not infrequent. A south wind blowing 
down Colindres channel causes much sea, and, on this ac* 


Njotinl Ano 


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.''■lai'iN tn enterm«i. S J^isl .*4 oi a iiiiic 


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t'esiU Kaiizo . 


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N^ 4 y, 





I*! Fi'aile S.'WAV’.Dist 2'-^ miles- 


Mouiil Sajiloiin 


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Mmiul Urnspo 


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c Ajo N.aa^w 

Di.sl ‘4^2 miles 


N [ m 1111 ; 1111.1M : I 

















































































1 

















FRAILE ANCHORAGE. 


117 


count, vessels sbould anchor during the winter season 
nearer Ano channel. 

Vessels bound to Bilbao, or that find a foul wind for Fraiie anchor- 
entering Santoua, sometimes anchor between Caballo and 
Fraiie points, where there is good holding-ground and 
where they are in a better position for getting under way 
than to the southward of the latter. This anchorage is 
also taken to ride out a NW. gale, being sheltered from 
NW. to SW., but vessels ride uneasy if there is much 
swell. Caballo point may be passed at 400 yards distance 
and anchorage taken at about one-fourth of a mile NE. of 
Fraiie point, in 7 to 9 fathoms at low water, sand. A good 
berth is with Fraiie point bearing SW. J W. and Caballo 
point NNW. I W., about 400 yards from Merana bank 
which is near the shore. Vessels lie at single anchor and 
in readiness to slip to make for the inlet or stand to the 
eastward should the wind suddenly shift to NE. Fraiie 
and Caballo points are easily recognized and are described 
above. 

The principal mark for the inlet of Santoiia is the mount- Marks, 
ain of the same name. (Views 49 and 50.) It is easily 
recognized, and the only mountain of similar appearance is 
that of Oandina, near the sea shore, SE. by E. from the 
former, but Candina has fewer peaks and no lookout 
tower. Mount Brusco (view 50) is another mark for San- 
tona. As mount Santoiia is approached from the westward 
the fort of Maza, at an elevation of about 500 feet, Cueva 
battery and guard-house, and the village of Dueso will be 
seen. 

From a long distance seaward the mountain of Nuestra 
Senora de laS Nieves, \^ith a chapel on its summit, can be 
made out. It has an altitude of 2,516 feet, and when bear¬ 
ing SSE. I E., is in line with mount Santoiia. From the 
eastward mount Santoiia appears somewhat open and iso¬ 
lated. 

The sand of Laredo, locally called Salv4, extends south- i-aredo 
eastward from the entrance channel of Santoiia, and forms 
a bay terminating at the cliff of Laredo, a small promontory 
with a bight on either side, 2J miles SE. by E. from fort 
Isabel II. The western bight forms the little port of La¬ 
redo, and the village of the same name is built along the 


118 


ORINON POINT—INLET. 


shore. The port is now so choked by the sands that the 
fishing-craft haul up on the beach for shelter. The town 
was formerly of considerable importance and the port good. 
It has about 3,200 inhabitants, chiefly engaged in the fishe¬ 
ries, and is surrounded by a wall. 

The NE. point of the promontory is named Eastrillar, and 
has a battery of the same name on its summit. The Eas¬ 
trillar rocks extend northward and westward from the foot 
of the cliff. From this point the coast trends E. 2 short 
miles to a high, steep, rugged headland, named Ahorcado, 
on the eastern side of which is the little bay of Yesera, so 
called from the deposits of gypsum (yeso) in its vicinity. A 
few coasters come here in the fine season to load with this 
product. 

Mount Can. At 1 mile E. of Ahorcado, mount Oandina rises from the 

ina. ' 

coast to an altitude of 1,390 feet, and is remarkable for the 
white patches conspicuous in the midst of the dark, wooded 
land. The mountain is of calcareous rock that shows here 
and there, and terminates in peaks that are less prominent 
than those of mount Santona j it is a good mark from sea¬ 
ward. 

Between Yesera bay and mount Oandina there is an islet 
close to the shore with a boat-channel inside it, and several 
rocks lie close along the shore between the Ahorcado and 
the clifi: of Laredo. 

Oriuou point. A low, narrow tongue of land, extending NE. for half a 
mile from the foot of Oandina mountain, is known as Ori- 
iion or Sonabia point. A ridge rises from the middle of it, 
and it is connected to the main by a low, narrow neck, 
partly covered at high water, and entirely covered when 
• there is a high sea. S. of this poii^t is point Islares, with 
the village of the same name near it. The point is low, 
slightly salient, and has a few rocks off it, and it forms the 
eastern limit of Orinon bay, the sands of which extend to 
mount Oandina, and some way up its eastern slope. 

Orinon inlet. Near the western extremity of this beach is the mouth of 
Orinon inlet, which extends S. to the valley of Guriezo, and 
receives the waters of the river Aguera. The inlet is fre¬ 
quented by coasters and small craft that bring iron-ore to 
the founderies in the vicinity. The inlet winds along the 
eastern side of mount Oandina; it has a shifting bar, and 


MOUNT CERREDO. 


119 


the entrance is only practicable at high water and in flue 
weather, as the bar is nearly dry at low water. The village 
of Orinon, with about 200 inhabitants, is on a sandy plain 
on the western shore of the inlet, and on the opposite shore 
is the village of Islares, of a little more importance. 

The inlet of Orinon may be recognized from a long dis¬ 
tance seaward by the large ravine the land forms between 
mounts Oandiua and Cerredo. The white sand of Orinon 
can also be seen a considerable distance, and the point of 
this name appears like an island against it. From Orinon 
inlet rises the western end, ragged and broken, of mount 
Cerredo, that extends eastward to the town of Castro Urdi- 
ales. Its northern side falls in a gentle slope to the sea, 
where it terminates in low land that shows large patches of 
slate-rock. Toward the western side of the mountain, and 
in the vicinity of Islares, is the peak of Cerredo, 1,813 feet 
above the level of the sea, and on it there is a landmark. 
{View 51.) This peak is a good mark for Sautona inlet and 
the port of Castro Urdiales. 

A similar high mountain, only visible at a distance sea¬ 
ward, is 5J miles inland, SW. of Cerredo and S. of Caudina 
mountain. There is a con-spicuous hummock on its summit, 
named Castro, crowned by the chapel of Nuestra Seuora de 
las Nieves, before referred to. This is the highest mountain 
of the valley of Guriezo, and is also a mark for Santoua 
inlet, and much used by the fishermen. 

From Islares point the coast runs eastward—low, even, 
and with slight bends; slaty, and showing whitish patches— 
to La Lastra point, 3 miles ESE. J E. from Orinon point. 
La Lastra point, though higher than the coast just described, 
is difficult to make out from a distance, but, on nearing it, • 
two watch-houses will be Seen a little back from the cliff's 
and on its highest part. Between Islares and La Lastra 
points is the low, blackish rock of Cerdigo, close off' the 
point of the same name. It is united to the coast by a short 
reef that uncovers at low water^ In a strong breeze the 
sea washes over the islets. At about one-third of a mile 
ESE. J E. from La Lastra point is point Babanal—lower, / 
rocky, and slightly salient. A dangerous reef sets out from 
it with 7 fathoms water on it at 400 yards off shore. Far¬ 
ther out the soundings are irregular over a rocky bottom. 


Mount Cerredo. 


Coast. 


120 


OASTRO URDIALES BAY. 


and there is one head, the Cabrera, with 16 fathoms on it 
where the sea breaks when there is a heavy swell. A berth 
of more than a mile should be given Eabanal point in mak¬ 
ing the port of Castro Urdiales, if there is much sea from 
the NW. At night the Galea light should be steered for 
until Castro Urdiales light bears S., before heading for the 
port. 

^astroUrdiales Eabanal point is the northern limit of Castro Urdiales 
bay, which is completely open to NE., and has only 3 to 4^ 
fathoms water in it at low tide. The bottom is rocky, and the 
bay only convenient for vessels of light draught. At a little 
more than half a mile SSE. J E. from Eabanal point is the 
Atalaya of Castro Urdiales, a vertical cliff, 66 feet high, 
with several rocks and an islet close to its NW. side. At 
100 yards SE. from the Atalaya is another and higher clifif,^ 
on which is the old castle of Santa Ana, with four circular 
towers, and on the SE. tower is the light. The castle is 
white toward the sea, and visible at a great distance. At 100 
yards SE. from the castle is the Pena de Santa Ana, another 
rock, 63 feet high, vertical on all sides except the W., where 
there is some slope. On its summit is the chapel of Santa 
Ana. Between this rock and the castle are two others, one 
larger than the other, and the three are connected by bridges 
to communicate with the chapel. Walls have been raised 
uniting these rocks and sufficiently high above the level of 
high w^ater to impede the entrance of the tide and protect 
the bay of Castro Urdiales. If the bay had deeper water 
and were a little larger it would be an excellent port of 
refuge for winds from SE. to lljT. through W. j but it can only 
be used by small craft and vessels of 9 to 11 feet draught 
. waiting for a tide or favorable weather to take the bar of 
Bilbao. Southerly winds acquire a terrific force, and good 
ground-tackle is a necessity. 

Port. The port is formed by two moles, with the mouth, 45 feet 

wide, open to the southward. With a NW. or E". sea a 
heavy swell runs into it, causing much damage to the small 
craft inside. The bottom is rock with a light layer of sand 
and mud, and at low tide almost all the port dries except 
near the entrance, where there are 5 to 9 feet water. It is^ 
large enough to accommodate the 130 fishing-boats owned 


CASTRO URDIALES LIGHT. 


121 


in the vicinity, with 15 to 20 coasters, which are secured in 
tiers. 

The town of Castro Urdiales is surrounded by walls j it Town, 
faces the port and extends I:^. and S., so that seen from the 
E. it presents a pleasing and imposing appearance. There 
are manufactures of linen fabrics, sails, ropes, fishing-gear, 
tiles, bricks, &c., but a great portion of the inhabitants are 
employed in fishing. There is but little trade, consisting 
chiefly of iron, wine, brandy, salt fish, and hides. Popula¬ 
tion about 3,200. The town is seen from a great distance, 
particularly the church, which stands on elevated ground a 
little W. of the castle and light. The many rocks that sur¬ 
round the bay are perfectly detached from the main-land. 

• On the SE. tower of Santa Ana castle there is a circular, „ Light: Lat .430 
white light-tower, from w'hich is displayed, at an elevation 3° i 6 ' 06 " w. 
of 148 feet above the sea, a fixed red light varied by afiash 
every 3 minuteSj and visible 7 miles in clear weather. (View 
51.) 

It is high water, full and change, in Castro Urdiales bay Tides, 
at 3^ 5 springs rise 11 to 12 feet. 

At about half a mile SE. by S. from the Pena de Santa Directions. 
Ana is the low, rocky point of Cotolino, which limits Castro 
Urdiales bay to the SE. To enter the bay from the west¬ 
ward with winds from that quarter, give a good berth to 
Kabanal point, according to the state of the sea, and con¬ 
tinue on for the castle and clitfs of Santa Ana, which may 
.be closed to a distance of 50 or 60 yards, as they are steep-to, 
coming-to to the southward of the chapel with the ends of 
the moles in one: At night care must be taken to keep well 
clear of Kabanal point. Only vessels of a draught that can 
enter the port should frequent the bay, for should the wind 
come out at N. or NE. there would be great danger of losing 
the ship. The boats of the port are large and strong, and 
the boatmen go out iu all weathers if assistance is required. 

For extra anchors, assistance, &c., there is a regular tarift' 
of prices. 

The coast between Santoiia and Castro Urdiales is mount- castro Verde 
ainous in the interior, and low along the shore j it is gener- ‘ 
ally clear of danger except at Kabanal point. At 8J miles 
N. by E. from this point is a small bank, named Castro Verde, 
with 25 to 30 fathoms water on it, where there is often con- 


122 


MIONO POINT. 


Point Miono. 


Bilbao bay. 


siderable sea, and where the sea sometimes breaks with a 
southerly gale. There are 40 to 45 fathoms water near the 
bank, deepening rapidly to 60 and 70 fathoms, and in bad 
weather care must be taken to give it a wide berth, passing 
either outside or inside of it. 

The bank lies with mount Gabarga of Santona on with 
the highest part of mount Brusco, and Castro hill, on which 
is the chapel of Nuestra Sehora de las Nieves, in one with 
a peak—not very prominent—^^of mount Cerredo, named 
Verde, westward of the highest peak of the mount. Hence 
the name, Castro Verde, of the bank. 

Westward of Cotolino point a considerable beach uncov¬ 
ers at low water, and through it the Brazonar river empties, 
an unimportant stream. At one-third of a mile SE. of Co¬ 
tolino is Miono point, high, steep and clear. Both these 
points extend from the Cueto de Miono, a height with an 
elliptical base that appears cone-shaped when seen from the 
westward. On the eastern side of Miono point is a small 
foul beach and little inlet of the same name. The latter, 
also called port Dicido, is only accessible for small craft at 
high water and in favorable weather; it is frequented in 
summer by light-draught boats that carry iron-ore to Orinon 
and other Biscayan ports, and it has a small jetty where 
the boats load. The village is on the sea-shore within the 
port: population about 300. At the eastern end of Miono 
beach is a high rocky point, named Salta Caballo. 

Between La Lastra point and Villano islet, 13J miles E. 
by N., the coast forms a large bight 4 miles deep, at the 
head of which the bay of Bilbao opens and recedes 3 miles 
to the SE. This bight is dangerous, with on-shore winds, 
for with much sea it would be very difficult for a vessel to 
get out of it on either tack, and it would be necessary to 
run for the bar of Bilbao at all hazards. It is therefore 
prudent to avoid it unless bound for Bilbao, and. at a time 
when the bar is practicable. All the coast of the bight is 
dangerous, with strong winds from NE. to W., and there is 
no port of refuge except Castro Urdiales, with these winds. 
Southerly winds blow with extreme violence in the bight, 
and vessels are blown off the coast, being unable to carry 
sail. 




PROVINCE OF BISCAY. 


123 


From Salta Caballo point the coast, rather low and rocky Sabiote river, 
along the shore and mountainous in the interior, trends 
southeastward to the rocky point of Onton, the western 
limit of the little bay of the same name. This bay, also 
called Berrion, recedes to the SW., and into it empties the 
Sabiote or Onton river, that forms the boundary-line be¬ 
tween the provinces of Santander and Biscay. 

The province of Biscay, commencing at the Sabiote river, Province ot 
terminates at Santurraran point, the eastern limit of Onddr- 
roa bay. It has about 50 miles of bold coast without a 
single harbor for large vessels, with the exception of Bilbao, 
which may be entered by vessels of 13 to 14 feet draught 
in fine weather. The small ports are only used by fishing- 
craft and small coasters, and can only be entered at high 
water. East of cape Machichaco there is an open bay, where 
vessels of all classes may anchor in winds from W. to SW., 
but they are in great danger should there be a sudden shift 
to the opposite quarter. 

The KW. winds blow with great force on the coast of 
Biscay, and bring a heavy sea that prevents any mercantile 
operations in its small portsj but the coast is, fortunately, 
clear of outlying dangers and may be approached to a 
moderate distance, unless there is a great deal of sea on. 

In the interior the land is generally mountainous and bro¬ 
ken, and along the shore it is arid and rocky, with occa¬ 
sional breaks and beaches where the sand has been washed 
up by the sea, forming the only ports, approachable only 
in fine weather. From a distance are seen the high crests 
of the Pyrenean range, the peaks of Gorbea and Amboto 
attaining an elevation of 5,115 and 4,526 feet respectively. 

The spurs of the chain descending to the coast form a series 
of peaks, many of which, seen from NW., appear to be 
perfect cones. 

The NE. and E. winds—K. and NW. in the bight of Bil- winds, 
bao—alternate with N W. and W. winds during the summer, 
and generally fall in the evening and are succeeded by the 
land-breeze. 

In autumn the S. winds prevail, and generally blow 
strong, lasting two or three days, and sometimes eight or 
nine, with clear weather; but as soon as they haul to SSW. 
the sky begins to cover with scud and the vendaml com- 


124 


WINDS—SEA. 


Sea. 


mences, SW. and W. winds, blowing a gale, with heavy 
squalls, veering after some days to NVV. This wind causes 
a very heavy sea on the coast and closes all the ports j it 
lasts for about a fortnight, being interrupted by two or three 
days of moderate weather j but fortunately the sky clears 
sufficiently at times to see the coast and verify the ship’s 
position. 

The N. and IN’NE. winds blow directly on shore and ob¬ 
scure the coast by clouds and continual rain and hail; but 
they are not of long duration, and blow generally between 
the middle of December and the last of February, or first 
of March. There have been winters with only two or three 
hard northers, but in others they are very frequent. 

The FE. winds are not frequent in winter, but at times 
they come with heavy clouds and last two or three days, 
when they are called Nordestes pardos^ov dry northeasters. 
As they go down they veer to the E., and are then preludes 
to southerly winds. 

As soon as the wind veers from NE. through E. to SE., a 
vessel should close the coast, as the S. wind will soon follow 5 
but when, after two or three days of S. wind it veers to SW., 
a vessel should stand well out or make a port, for the NW. 
wind will soon set in. In the spring the winds are more 
moderate, but almost always from the SW. and ilW. quar¬ 
ters, with rain, and some years these continue as late as 
July. 

The NW. sea, having a range of the whole distance from 
the coast of North America, causes the most damage 5 there 
is not a bight along the coast that does not feel its efitects, 
and it is only in the interior of the inlets, and at low water, 
that a vessel is not exposed. Commencing about the mid¬ 
dle of September or first of October, it is felt for two-thirds 
of the year, with short interruptions. It is almost always 
a prelude of the NW. wind, and sometimes precedes it 
twenty-four hours. In winter a heavy sea rises during a 
calm, closing all the ports and inlets, and breaking in 25 to 
30 fathoms water. The waves are enormous, and are esti¬ 
mated in one case, by Fitzroy, to be 00 feet in height, and 
they are, of course, very dangerous for vessels near the 
coast. 



SQUALLS—CURRENTS. 


125 


In August, heavy squalls and shifts of wind, called Oaler- Squaiis. 
naSj are experienced off the coast of Biscay. They gather 
over the land during the heat of the sun, rise in the SW., 
when the horizon becomes obscure, and as they reach W. 
the weather becomes thick. The wind then soon veers to 
the NW., whence it comes out suddenly and violently, so 
that, unless every precaution is taken to receive it, much 
damage may be done. It is accompanied by rain, and lasts 
full force for three or four hours, when it gradually falls 
to a moderate NW. breeze, and at nightfall dies away. At 
times^ particularly in summer, the galerna shifts suddenly 
from S. to NW., without any warning, and then blows with 
^^‘Uch force. It is also common to see these two winds strug- 
gliuy mastery, and separated by a belt of calm, 

showLvjy the waves curling on its borders j a vessel in the 
calm ready for the result. 

The b. Wx.^j jg foretold by a remarkable clearness of the 
atmosphere, most distant peaks of the mountains 

of the interior ax gjg^rly seen, and the remotest objects ap¬ 
pear as distinct ast^ close at hand. During an 

E. wind or a calm, it peaks are seen so distinctly, and 
about the summits a few 

is near at hand. Sailors s^^glimes are able to foretell these 
winds by the clouds of dust inland, or the direction 
of the smoke of the mountain-L^g 

Lightning is frequent at the l^^^^u^iing and termination 
of bad weather, and during the form.;^^ galernas. 

The barometer rises with winds from through K to Barometer. 
NE., and falls with other winds. 

The currents set E. and NE. during the wintv currents, 

force oft' shore than close in under the land. 
of the coast the navigator should be on his guard. .. 
easy to determine the velocity of the current, but it 
runs about 3 knots an hour with a W. or NW. gale. L 


summer it is slight, and sometimes sets W. or NW. 

Vessels not bound to Bilbao, nor the ports of Guipuzcoa^ Di 
should keep well off the coast of Biscay; but if bound to 
any of these ports should close the coast as much as possi¬ 
ble. As the prevailing winds are from the SW. and NW* 
quarters, there is not much danger in keeping well in in 
sight of the lights and marks, so as to have a good check 


12G 


SOMORROSTRO BAY. 


on the position of the vessel. NW. gales lose much of their 
force when they strike the coast, and, as already stated, the 
current is less strong than it is farther out. Many disasters 
have occurred on the Arcachon banks from vessels not be¬ 
ing navigated near the coast. A vessel keeping too far out 
is exposed to the greatest force of the wind, and the great¬ 
est strength of thecurrent, which sets toward the coast of Gas¬ 
cogne, in France. The marks are not seen by day on ac¬ 
count of the thick weather and distance from the coast, no" 
the lights by night; and while the navigator believes h’^Q- 
self by his reckoning to be clear of all danger, he is 
find himself embayed and on a dead lee-shore on dan¬ 
gerous coast of France, wli^re the only chance of safety 
a sailing-vessel is in a shift of wind. / 

Muz^uiz point. From Onton bay a rather low coast, high in the 

trends E. to Muzquiz point, 2 long miles E. f S. frf^ Onton 
point; this point is low and rocky, and forms western 



mark is mount Lucero. (View 52.) 

Mount Lucero. At the eastern end of the sand of Soraorrostro the coast 
is rocky and broken; the land then rises regularly to mount 
Lucero or Luzuero, which extends KW. and SE. with a 



BILBAO BAY. 


127 


smooth slope to the sea. When seen from seaward it has 
the same appearance as the peak of Montano, and when it 
is in one with mount Sefantes SE. f E., the two appear 
like a single conical peak. Mount Lucero has an altitude 
of 1,011 feet. Lucero point, at the foot of the mountain, is 
salient to NW., and eastward of it is a point salient to NE., 
called Sevallo, or, by the pilots, Agujero point. 

At about miles ENE. J E. from Sevallo point is point Bilbao bay. 
Galea, the two being the W. and E. points of entrance to 
Bilbao bay, an inlet running in about 3 miles to the SE. 

From the funnel shape of the bay, the sea and land breezes 
alternate day and night during the fine season, but in win¬ 
ter the strong winds from W. to NE. blow directly in and 
cause a heavy swell that reaches the head of the bay. Both 
shores are fronted by reefs j these lie close to the western, 
but extend 200 to 400 yards out from the eastern shore. In 
bad weather no vessel should enter the bay unless sure of 
being able to cross the b*ar. ^ 

Cidrvana or Si^rvana point is nearly 1 mile SE. by E. 
from Sevallo point, and is low, with rocks off it. The coast 
between these points is the base of mount Lucero, of low 
cliffs with detached rocks. A break in the coast forms the 
little cove or port of Oi4rvana, used by fishing-craft. A 
few houses and the coast-guard station are on the slope of 
the mount near the shore, in the valley between mounts 
Lucero and Serantes. This valley is named Nogales from 
being covered with trees of that name, (walnuts.) To the 
NE. of the valley, and in 14 or 15 fathoms water, is the an¬ 
chorage of Nogales. 

Mount Serantes, like mount Lucero, extendsNW. and SE., 
reaches an altitude of 1,502 feet above the sea, and when 
bearing southeastward, has the conical appearance of the 
latter mount and forms a good mark for the bay. Its slopes 
reach the shore of the bay of Bilbao. 

Between Ci^rvana and Santurce, 2} miles farther in, 
are three batteries—Xebiles, called Primer Castillo (first 
castle) by the pilots, about IJ miles SE. of Ciervana, and 
where the signals of the bar pilots are repeated j Cuartas 
battery j and the battery of Gampillo. The fishing-village 
of Santurce, with about 300 inhabitants, has a circular pier 
harbor, only large enough to accommodate a few of the 


128 


BILBAO BAY. 


Bar. 


larger boats; the bottom is of rock, aud it dries at two- 
thirds ebb. Saiiturce is the residence of the master pilot, 
and the bar and river pilots, who are in a good position for 
boarding vessels. The village has a pleasant appearance, 
and faces the SE., bat it is not seen on entering the bay ; 
thence to the entrance to the river is half a mile. 

Point Begona, low, rocky, and surrounded by reefs, is 
nearly a mile j E. from Santurce; the beaches of 
Guecho and Algorta lie between, separated by the bar. At 
700 yards N. of Begona, and in the middle of a foul, stony 
beach, is the town of Algorta, with about 1,500 inhabitants, 
and with a little port for the fishing-craft similar to the one 
at Santurce. The town is scattered over the side of a hill, 
and can be seen a long distance. From Algorta a rocky 
coast trends NW. to San Ignacio point, whence reefs extend 
600 yards to NW. The coast here turns eastward and then 
NW. again, and is rocky and foul. A rock named Piloto 
lies about half-way between San Ignacio point and Galea 
light, and at 400 y^ds off shore, with 20 feet water inside 
it at low tide. At low springs the rock uncovers and has 
the appearance of a buoy. The village of Guecho is on the 
plain above the cliffs, between the points of San Ignacio and 
Galea; and Galea castle, where is the light, is on the cliffs 
half a mile SSW. of the latter point. Galea point, the E. 
point of entrance to Bilbao bay, is high and steep, with the 
remains of a battery on its summit and a reef at its foot. 
Almost all the shore from this point to San Ignacio point, 
which is red and has a battery on it, is steep, abrupt, and 
of a whitish color, with a table land above extending to 
southeastward. 

The bar of Bilbao is dangerous, not only from its con¬ 
stant shifting and little depth of water, but because it is 
exposed to the worst winds of the coast and to the NW. 
sea; but vessels are often obliged to run for it, regardless of 
the weather, if there is sufficient water on it for them to 
cross. The sand-banks between Algorta and Santurce 
leave only a narrow channel between them, with 2 or 3 feet 
water at low springs, and both the position and depth vary 
with every freshet of the Nervion and with every gale, so 
that the pilots have to sound constantly and carefully. The 
bar is generally near the western shore, and in the direc- 




NERVION RIVER. 


129 


tiori of the river-channel, and carries 14 and 15 feet water 
at high springs, 13 feet draught being the niaxiinuin that 
should beiirudently calculated upon to insure passing the 
bar at the best tides and in the most favorable weather. 

During 1871 the average depth on the bar was at high tides 
13J feet, and at neap tides 11 feet. The N\V. gales affect 
it most, and at times close it completely. Xo v^essel draw¬ 
ing more than 8 feet should attempt to enter without a 
pilot, especially if there is any swell. If there is any sea it 
breaks on the bar even at high water. The bar is nearly 
half a mile outside the ends of the moles. 

The entrance to the Nervion river, at the head of Bilbao Jiervionriver, 
bay, is formed by two sea-walls or piers, about 150 yards 
apart, the eastern one being continued without a break for 
7^ miles to Bilbao, and serving as a tracking path, and the 
western extending as far, but with several interruptions. 

There are several muddy flats stretching out from both 
banks, but otherwise the river is clear, and as there are no 
great sinuosities, a vessel may reach Bilbao under sail with 
one wind. The width of the channel varies from 70 to 200 
yards, the depth gradually diminishing from the silt and 
gravel brought down by the Nervion and its tributaries, 
but between Portugalete and Olaviaga there are 4 to 18 
feet at low springs, giving anchorage for any vessels that 
can cross the bar. The best water is generally near the 
western mole. A little above Olaviaga a flat of shingle, 
that dries at low water, extends from the left bank nearly 
across the river. 

Portugalete, on the W. bank of the jSTervion, a short Portusaiete. 
half-mile within its mouth, is a town of about 1,200 inhabi¬ 
tants, at the foot of San Koque hill, and its handsome i)ar- 
ish church, standing on an eminence, is seen immediately 
on entering Bilbao bay. The anchorage off the town is the 
best for large vessels, as the river here is deep, and they 
can make fast to the guns or stone inllars on the quays. 

The chief occupation of the inhabitants is in loading and 
discharging vessels too large to go higher up. Smaller ves¬ 
sels anchor just off the town or make fast to the mole and 
to the larger ones. In winter the Portugalete anchorage is 
bad on account of the heavy swell .that sometimes enters, 
and in such cases vessels often shift their berth to the Sestao 
9 N c 


130 


NERVION RIYER. 


River. 


clianiiel that opens just witliiii the town, and traverses the 
broad bank of mud and sand between the actual coast and 
the western mole. Small craft lie afloat in it at low water. 
The village of Sestao, with about 250 inhabitants, is on 
a height southward of the channel. 

The head of the western mole after the break at Portu- 
galete is called Venerita point. At high water the mole is 
almost awash, so that only the round tower at its head and 
the mooring pillars along it can be seen. The breadth of 
the channel here is about 150 yards and the depth 9 to 14 
feet. 

At nearly a mile above Venerita point there is a bridge of 
a single span in the eastern mole, through which the waters 
of the Udondo river flow. Boats engaged in transporting 
building-stone, timber, &c., enter at high water. Between 
this river and the mouth of the Galindo, just around the 
first bend, there is a dangerous bank on each side of the 
channel. The edges of the banks are marked by buoys. 
Mount Aspe, on the eastern shore of this part of the Nervion, 
is steep, and is the only barren hill near the river, the others 
being cultivated and scattered with the farmers^ dwellings. 

Opposite mount Aspe there is a second break in the west¬ 
ern mole, giving place to the walls of the grounds of the 
convent of San ^^icolas del Desierto. The convent is in a 
grove on an eminence near the river bank. The Galindo 
river empties just south of the convent grounds, and is 
spanned by a bridge of three arches. Near the bridge there 
is a large iron-fouuder 3 \ Coasters and small craft, bringing- 
coal or loading from the foundery, anchor off the convent 
wall and the mouth of the Galindo. 

At two-thirds of a mile above the Galindo are seen the 
remains of the tower or fort of Lfichaua, and on the oppo¬ 
site shore the famous bridge of the same name, with three 
arches, spanning the Asua river, navigable for large boats 
for some distance. Just beyond the bridge the eastern 
mole takes a sharp turn to the SE. along the foot of a high, 
barren, and rocky hill, named Oabras. Opposite this angle 
is the mouth of the Salcedon or Oadagua river, navigable 
for lighters for two-thirds of a mile, to the chain-bridge near 
Burcena convent, llninediatel^* after forming the elbow 
above described, the river turns to S3^Y. for half a mile, to 




OLAVIAG A.—BILBAO. 


131 


the qaaraiitine ground and hospital. ]Sre}vr the latter are a 
group of houses and a rope-walk, and the prospect from 
this situation is a very pleasing one. Mount Banderas, 
about 725 feet high, rises to the eastward of the quarantine 
ground. On its summit is a fort and a signal-station, where 
the signals made at Portugalete in regard to ships’ move¬ 
ments are repeated. 

The village of Olaviaga is a short half-mile beyond the oiavia^a. 
quarantine station. It is a flourishing place of about 1,000 
inhabitants, scattered along both banks of the river for 
more than half a mile. It is the usual place for loading 
and discharging, and may be reached by any vessel that 
can cross the bar. All vessels make fast to the western 
mole, the eastern being kept clear for tracking. Marine 
stores, fresh provisions, and anything ordinarily needed 
aboard ship may be had, and communication with Bilbao is 
easy, either by land or water. Beyond the houses on the 
southern shore is a dock. 

From Olaviaga the channel narrows, and the river trends 
eastward, and then southeastward to Bilbao. Vessels of 9 
feet draught can proceed to the town at high-water springs, 
and of 7 feet at neaps; but in all cases they load and dis¬ 
charge on the ground. At the railway quay opposite the 
town the ground is bad, and no vessel drawing 7 feet can 
lie alongside. 

Bilbao, the capital of the province of Biscay or Vizcaya, Bilbao, 
stands on a fertile plain on the banks of the river Nervion, 

7 miles from its mouth. It is surrounded by hills on all 
sides except toward the sea, and, viewed from any of these 
heights, is exceedingly picturesque. It is generally well 
built, and some of the principal streets are straight and 
spacious, though most ‘of them are narrow and winding, 
and all are clean and well paved. The new town on the 
eastern bank is connected with the old town on the oppo¬ 
site shore by three bridges, one of which is an iron suspen¬ 
sion bridge. The supply of water is excellent; it is con¬ 
veyed in stone tunnels under the street, and, that these may 
not be disturbed, wheeled vehicles are absolutely prohibited, 
and traffic is carried on on horseback or by means of sledges. 

Some of the public buildings are very fine; the slaughter¬ 
house, which serves also as a meat-market, is a fine build- 


132 


BILBAO. 


I 


Tides. 


ill", of the Tuscan order, and is kept perfectly clean by a 
copious fountain, Avhich is constantly flowing. Ship yards, 
^yarehouses, and factories are scattered along the shore of 
the old town, and there are abundant resources of all kinds. 
Bilbao is the second commercial city in Spain, and ship¬ 
building is carried on to a large extent. In 1871,1,707 ves¬ 
sels of all nations, with tonnage 270,787, besides 649 coast¬ 
ers, with tonnage 77,906, entered, and nearly an equal number 
cleared from the port, and the number of steamers Avas 
steadily increasing j three lines of railway from the mining 
districts were in course of construction, and one line was in 
operation to the interior, crossing the northern railway of 
Spain. There was great and increasing demand for iron- 
ore from the Bilbao district from England, Erance, Bel¬ 
gium, and Germany, and the supply seems inexhaustible, 
not only the Somorrostro district, but the whole vicinity 
being full of mineral, more or less' rich. The export of iron- 
ore for 1871 was 354,000 tons, an increase of 84,000 tons 
over that of 1870. During this year, also, a concession was 
granted to an English firm to construct a harbor of refuge 
in the bay of Bilbao in accordance with the plans of the 
eminent English engineer, Mr. C, B. Vignoles, to consist of 
two vast breakwaters, one commencing at Santurce, and 
the other at Algorta, both outside the bar, which would 
thus be destroyed and a fine harbor formed. Fifteen years 
were allowed for the execution of the work. Chief manu¬ 
factures: woolen and linen goods, silks, iron, copper-ware, 
hats, paper, and soap. Imports: cotton and woolen goods, 
colonial produce, dried cod, coal, coke, timber, &c. Ex¬ 
ports: iron, fruits, oil, grain, flour, ore, wine, madder, 
licorice, skins, chestnuts, &c. Population, about 21,000. 

It is high water, full and change, on the bar of the Ner- 
YiOR at 2^ In'"; springs rise 12 feet and neaps 7 feet. At 
Olaviaga, at 3^' 15'", springs rise 12 feetj and at Bilbao, at 
3^' 20'", springs rise 9 feet. With fresh N\Y. winds the 
tide rises about 2 feet higher than usual, and the time of 
high water is half an hour later; while the contrary effect 
takes place with winds from NE. to S., which should be 
taken into consideration. The ebb stream runs 3 knots at 
springs and IJ at neaps. 


LIGHTS—PILO^TS. 


133 


« 

'At Galea castle there is a circular white tower rising from Light: Lnt. ir,a 
the center of the keeper’s dwelling, from which is displayed, :p o’?o2» 
at an elevation of 401 feet above the sea, ^ fixed white light, 
visible 10 miles in clear weatlier. 

At the end of the western mole there is a circular pilot 
tower where a light is shown if the bar is practicable ; but 
should the light appear and disappear several times sud¬ 
denly, vessels should not approach the bar. A light is also 
used for signaling at the foot of the tower. 

There are about 40‘ pilots uegistered between Portugalete, Pilots. 
Santurce, and Algorta, who go out without any regular 
turn, the first to arrive piloting tlie ship ; if the weather is 
too bad to put out from either of these points and there is 
a vessel waiting outside the bay, tbe pilots go overland to 
Castro Urdiales, and go off in one of. tbe fisbing-boats. 

Pilots will be found in fine weather soma distance to the 
westw'ard of the bay, but rarely to the eastward, as most 
vessels prefer to make point Lucero when bound in, to be to 
w indward of the bay should a SW. or NW. wind set in. A 
chief pilot, whose duty is to guide vessels across the bar, is 
always, weather permitting, in attendmice outside the bar, 
and his boat will be known by a red fiag, by w hich he di¬ 
rects the vessel’s course, pointing to starboard or port, and 
holding the flag vertical if going well. Tbe signal directs 
the vessel’s head, not helm. If the w^eatber is too bad to 
go out, the signal is made from the pilot-tower at the head 
of the SW. mole, .where the signal from the boat is always 
repeated; it is also repeated at tbe ‘‘first castle,” Xebiles 
battery, outside of Santurce, with a white flag. When 
there is sufficient water on the bar, the flags at both plac^es 
are shown, and no vessel should approach the bar without 
having sight of the flags. Should a vessel approach tbe 
bar before there is sufficient water on it, the flag is waved 
continuously from side to side. At night similar signals are 
made with lights at the foot of the pilot-tower on the mole, 
and the vessel entering should carry a top-light. Assist¬ 
ance may be counted on from shore should any trouble 
arise, and spare anchors, &c., may be obtained from Portn- 
galete. Pilotage is obligatory on vessels of more than 50 
tons. A steam-tug may be had for towing over the bar. 

Signal for tug, ensign at fore-yard arm. 


334 


DIRECTIO]N"S. 


Directions. 


The position of the bay of Bilbao is easily recognized, !f 
coining from the eastward by capes Macliichaco and Vil- 
lauo, (View’s 52 and 53,) and from the w’estward by mount 
Sautona, the town of Castro Urdiales and the peaks of 
Montano, Lucero, and Serantes. If from the it will 

be know n by the mountain of Amboto, 4,520 feet in height, 
with its head inclining westward 5 it is an excellent mark 
for the bay, and bearing SE. by E., leads in. On nearing 
the bay the high reddish-white sands of Algorta and 
Giiecho will be seen, the light* on the highest part of the 
cliffs of Galea, the village of Algorto, that of Portugal- 
ete with its church, which is seen a long distance, and the 
circular white pilot-tower on the SW. mole. 

With a fresh westerly breeze vessels should wait off' Cas¬ 
tro Urdiales for the favorable moment to enter the bay, and 
the time of high w^ater should be exactly known to avoid 
inconvenience and risk. In fine weather the bay may be 
entered and anchorage taken off Nogales, or farther into 
wait for daylight or tide. As the worst gales are those 
from SW. to N. through W., a vessel should, particularly in 
winter, close the coast about Santander or Sautona, to be 
able to enter these ports in bad weather, or to keep to wind- 
w’ard of Bilbao if obliged to heave-to. This gives them, be¬ 
sides, a chance of meeting one of the pilots who rarely fail of 
being on that part of the coast. The bay should not be en¬ 
tered in bad weather without a pilot, but if embayed at 
neap-tides w ith on-shore winds, and unable to get out under 
a press of sail, the anchorage of Nogales, with good holding- 
ground, is the best, and the best berth is at holf a mile from 
shore in 14 or-15 fathoms water, sand, with Galea point on 
with cape Yillano; a second anchor should be ready to let 
go. Should a vessel of light draught get into the bay dur¬ 
ing a gale with the tide favorable for crossing the bar, at¬ 
tention should be given to the signals; sail should be kept 
to keep the vessel before the sea, and the head-sheets aft to 
keep her from broaching-to; also hatches should be bat¬ 
tened down, and anything loose on deck lashed, as tw’o or 
three seas may break over the vessel. In a heavy gale the 
sea commences to break in a line between Galea point and 
Siervana cove. 

The bar is taken in all w’inds except those from SE. to 


DIRECTIONS. 


135 


SS^Y. which are off shore. Southerly winds predominate 
ill October and November, and are very strong at the en¬ 
trance of the bay. Tlie wind comes down in squalls and 
eddies from the high land on the W. coast, and in working 
for the bar the vessel should keep between the E. coast and 
the middle of the bay, to avoid the eddies. For large ves¬ 
sels the high tide between 2’^ and 5^ p. m. is the best, 
and they should be at the bar an hour and a half before 
high water. The bar can he taken even an hour after high 
water if the vessel can make headway against the currenr. 

A vessel should leave the riv’er before the flood is done, 
and the best tides are those between 5^ and 7^^ a. in., so as 
to have the land-wind, which scarcely ever fails if it does, 
not blow hard outside. Departure should never be at¬ 
tempted with the ebb-tide, or with a sea on the bar. South¬ 
erly winds prevail about the vernal and autumnal equinoxes, 
and are generally dry and warm, though when veering to 
the SW. they are accompanied with rain. The barometer 
generally gires warning of their ajiproach by a sudden fall 
of 0.25 or 0.30 in., and perhaps more, and, though these 
are off shore winds, the bar frequentl}^ becomes impassable 
when they blow strong. During the summer season, sail¬ 
ing vessels waiting tide to enter the riv^'er should stand off 
and on, keeping outside and well to westward of the bay, to 
avoid being driven on cape Yillano by the NVY. swell, should 
the wind fail. 

The general mark for vessels under 8 feet draught approach¬ 
ing the bar is the churches of Portugalete and Sestao in 
one, SE. by S. southerly, ^teer on this bearing until mid¬ 
way between Campillo point and Santurce; the western 
mole will then be end on, SE., nearly, which is the leading 
mark over the bar. When abreast the house called Casa 
del Campo Grande, about one-third of the way between San¬ 
turce and the pier-head, haul over to the middle of the 
river to avoid a ridge of loosU stones with only 4 feet water 
over it at low tide, extending more than 200 yards from and 
in line with the western pier-head. A similar ridge, dry at 
low water, extends 400 yards from the eastern pier-head. 
Steer midway between the moles until abreast of Portuga¬ 
lete, where there is good anchorage in the middle of the 
river, and nearly as far as the bridge of Slete Ojos, about 


PLENCIA INLET. 


13G 

tliree-foartlis of a mile up the river, on the opposite shore. 
Should the wind be unfavorable for proceeding up the 
river, oxen for towing may be obtained at reasonable rates. 

Coast. From point Galea the white, almost vertical cliffs of the 

coast extend to the NE. and terminate near the mouth of 
Plencia river. At miles from Galea point is Sopelana 
beach, the only one in this extent of coast. It is small and 
foul. Half a mile to the northward of the beach is the 
steep, salient point of Menacoz forming a little cove, where 
small craft anchor in fine weather. Near the entrance are 
the ruins of a battery and guard house. At IJ miles be¬ 
yond Menacoz point is point Machilando, steep and rocky, 
and forming the SW. limit of Plencia bay; this bay is 3 
niiles across, extending NE. to Ormenza point; it is shal¬ 
low, and about the middle of it is the entrance to Plencia 
inlet. 

iMeucia iuiet. Plciicia iiilet cxteiuls in a southerly direction to the bridge 
of the town, under which boats pass to the mills above. At 
low water the estuary is dry, except a small pool with 3 or 
4 feet water in it near the bridge. There are 9 to 10 feet 
on the bar at high springs, and it is open to N\V. The en¬ 
trance is between a large, high rock, called San Yalentin, 
on the \V., and Barrica point on the E. In the middle 
there is another rock, about the size of a boat, and in en¬ 
tering boats pass between this rock and San Valentin, but 
nearer the latter. As the entrance is very narrow and the 
sea breaks with any swell, the inlet is only frequented in 
summer by coasters and boats. The village of Plencia, or 
Placencia, is at the foot of a hill on the eastern'shore of the 
inlet, more than half a mile from its mouth. Poi)ulation 
• about 1,000. It is not seen from seaward, but the houses 
of Gorliz on the sands oi the same name are easily made 
out. The course of Plencia river is about 21 miles, and it 
Hows into the inlet through.the nine arches of the bridge 
at the town. 

Gorliz sands. The saiuls of Gorliz lie eastward of Plencia inlet, between 
Barrica and Gorliz pointy. All the coast between Galea 
point and cape Yillano is moderately high and even, of 
whitish colored cliffs, and fronted by rocks. At a distance 
it appears like a group of sand-hills. It is exposed fully to 
the NW. sea, and a good berth should be given to it; but. 


CAPE VILLANO. 


13 


in the extreme case of a vessel being obliged to run ashore, 
the sands of Gorliz is a good place to save the crew. The 
extreme northern part should be selected, called Astongo, 
which is sheltered by the elbow formed by point Gorliz 
from the NW. sea. A small mole for the fishing-craft of 
Gorliz will be a mark for this point, beaching the vessel 
about 100 yards to the southward of it. 

Gape Villano is a considerable promontory, salient to Capevniauo. 
NW., with a lookout-house on its summit, about 900 feet 
above the sea. The western iiart slopes to the sea and ter¬ 
minates in a low, foul point, named Villano or Ormenza, 
with a reef extending seaward. Between Gorliz and Vil- 
lano points are two sunken rocks, 100 yards olf shore, and 
the same distance apart, that are only marked by the dis¬ 
turbance of the water over them. A low rocky islet, named 
Villano, lies NE. of the point of this name, about 200 yards 
off shore, with a boat-channel between it and the coast, 
where the sea breaks when there is much swell. A reel 
extends to the NNW. from the islet, and in bad weather 
the sea breaks nearly a mile outside it, when a berth of 2 
miles should be given to it. 

At half a mile SE. from the islet is the true cape Villano, 
high, broad, precipitous, and foul, and between it and Vil¬ 
lano point the coast forms a bight, outside of which is the 
islet. 

At a little less than 2 miles E. of Villano islet, is the little Coast, 
bay of Armenza, open to the N., and surrounded by a foul 
beach, in which there is a small channel only practicable for 
boats in fine weather. The village, near the middle of the 
bay, is visible from seaward. Basorda bay, smaller than 
the former, is 1 mile farther E., and has a similar foul 
beach; it has no importance whatever. The largest of the 
three bays between capes Villano and Machichacois Baquio 
bay, open to the N. and surroimtled by a clean beach, through 
which a small stream, named Estepona, empties. The vil¬ 
lage of Basigo, which is seen from the eastward, is on the 
slope of a hill by the shore of the stream, and near the mid¬ 
dle of the ba 3 \ At 1J miles NE. of this bay is the islet of 
San Juan de la Pena, or Gastelugache, high and rugged, 
and connected to the cliffs of the shore by a bridge of two 
arches. The chapel of San Juan is on the summit of the 


138 


CAPE MACHICHACO—LIGHT. 


islet, and is reached by an ascent of 372 steps. Just out¬ 
side of the islet are two rocks awash, and off its SE. part, 
and close to the shore, is a small rocky islet. T*he islet and 
chapel of San Juan can be made out from a long distance, 
and make an excellent mark for this part of the coast. 

Half a mile farther to the NE. is Aquech islet, high, round, 
and steep, and 20D yards oif shore, with a boat-channel be¬ 
tween. All the coast between capes Villano and Machichaco 
is exposed to winds from N W. to KE., and the sea is so heavy 
in its vicinity that a berth of 2 or 3 miles should be given it 
with cross-winds. It forms a shallow bight, and near the 
middle of it is a hill, named mount Jata, or AltodePleucia,a 
good mark for the capes, as it is the highest land in the 
vicinity. 

Cape MacM- Cape jMachichaco extends from high land, and terminates 

Chaco. ^ point salient to the N. (Views 20 and 21.) The west¬ 

ern side is of cliffs, while the eastern slopes gently to the 
sea. The cape is a spur of mount - Sollube, which extends 
N. and S., and from the center of which rises the remarka¬ 
ble peak of Burgonj it may be known from E. or W. by a 
sudden break that shows in the face of the hill, and by its 
northerly projection; but from seaward it is blended with 
the high lands behind it, and it is difficult to make it out 
unless near enough to see the light house. Two rocks lie a 
short distance off the foot of the cape, and a reef extends 
from it, where the sea often breaks a long way out, so that 
a berth of at least a mile should be given it. 

Machichaco, there is a white circular tower at- 

20 49' 26 " w. tached to the keeper’s dwelling, from which is displayed, at 

an elevation of 268 feet above the sea, a fixed ivhite light, 
varied by a fiash every 4 minutes^ and visible 20 miles in 
clear weather. 

Machichaco bay. At half a mile eastward from cape Machichaco is Potor- 
roarri point, with an islet of the same name close to it, and 
2 short miles SE. by S. from this point is that of Uguerrey, 
the coast between forming the bay of Machichaco, about 
half a mile deep, with good holding-ground, and affording 
shelter from winds of the S\V. quarter, and partly from 
those of the NW.; but these latter send in much sea, ren¬ 
dering the bay unsafe. Rocks lie close along the sh )re of 
the bay, which is generally steep, and a few reefs extend 


IVak of i'erroiio 





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i 


MACHICHACO BAY. 

out for about 100 yards : but tlieg^e is one little beach, named 
Gibt la, or Arichachii, where a landing may be made in fine 
weather, in an elbow W. of Uguerrey point, and this is com¬ 
manded by high cliffs. 

The anchorage is dangerous in winter, for should a strong 
wind set in from N. or NNE., it would be difficult to leave 
the bay^, and a vessel should always be ready to, get under 
way, standing to the eastward at first, as soon as the \yind 
draws higher than NW. With the wind at N. a vessel can 
run for San Sebastian or Pasages; but the NXE. is a cross- 
wind and dangerous. The best berth, to be ready for leav¬ 
ing, is in 14 fathoms water, sand and mud, between Potor- 
roarri point and the ruins of fort Valdes, with Arriederra 
islet—NE. of Isaro—in line with the hermitage of Santa 
Catalina de Lequeitio, and the Trompon Mayor on with the 
trees of the Atalaya of Bermeo, or the center of Isaro 
island on with the peak of Burgon SE. by E. ^ E. 

This position is half a mile from shore, over good holding- 
ground. The whole bottom of the bay is even, ranging 
from 11 to 17 fathoms in depth, sandy bottom, with rock 
near the coast. There are probably buoys at the anchor¬ 
age. If surprised by a heavy gale, the vessel might be left 
riding to a full scope of chain, and the crew landed at Ber¬ 
meo ; and this would be the most prudent course, for should 
the cable part, the ship would be driven on the rocks, where ^ 
there is little chance of saving life. 

Off' Uguerrey point, at about 75 yards’ distance, there is a Coast, 
low rock, named Uguerraiz. Trompon Mayor is the name 
given the highest part of the land commanding Uguerrey 
point, and where are the ruins of Trompon battery. Trom¬ 
pon Menor is another elevation farther W. The Atalaya 
of Bermeo is a high, level point, separated from Uguerrey 
point by a break in the coast; a short reef sets out from it, and 
there are the remains of a battery on its summit. Near this 
pomt is the rock of Salve-ach, that only shows at low water. 

From Atalaya point the cliffs continue southward to port Bermeo. 
Bermeo, where the coast bends westward to form a cove 180 
yards wide and 400’yards deep, called Puerto Mayor, while 
th^ basin inclosed by the mole is known as the Puerto Me¬ 
nor. The entrance to the basin is rather more than 100 
yards wide; aflow water it is almost dry, and the bottom 


130 


LAISUAS ROCKS. 

is of stones, with a thin layer of gravel,'and outside of the 
mole there are some large rocks that uncover at low water 
and are some protection from the sea. Puerto Mayor is also 
partly dry at low tide. The town stands on a ridge, facing 
S., and part of it is along the shore of the cove. It is not 
seen coming from the northwestward, but is partly visible 
in coming from NE. and E. The population is about 4,000, 
and the inhabitants are chiefly engaged in agriculture, dry¬ 
ing and salting fish for exportation, and in fishing. There 
are some good pilots a'lnong them. They are good sailors 
and have excellent boats, and are prompt to render assist¬ 
ance. Provisions are easily obtained. It is easy to enter 
the port with winds from the NE. or SE. quarter, but with 
others it is necessary to work in, and on account of the little 
depths the vessels that visit the port are only quick-work¬ 
ing craft of light draught. 

It is high water full and change at Bermeo at 3^; and 
springs rise about 11 feet. The ebb stream sets NNVV., 
and the flood SE. 

Lausuas rocks, little distance to the eastward of the rocks already 

mentioned, outside of the mole, is another group, named the 
Laisuas rocks, two heads of which uncover at low water, 
leaving a boat-channel with 3 or 4 feet water between them 
and the shore; they are dangerous, and should be avoided. 
Some years ago it was stated that the^^ were to be marked 
by a beacon, but it is uncertaiu whether this has been 
done. 

A short distance E. of Bermeo is the unimportant cove 
of Kosa, where the Cruz rivmlet empties. Point Rosa, the 
eastern limit of the cove, is rocky and salient. At 100 yards 
NE. of the latter is Lamiaran point, which is really the 
eastern point of Bermeo cove. Thence a steep coast, fronted 
with rocks, trends eastward half a mile to Morgoa or Mur- 
gon point, off wliich is Morgoa islet, rugged and steep-to. 

Muiuiacariver. Poiiit Saiita Catalina dc Mundaca, one-third of a mile 
SSE. of the latter point, is on the W. side of the inouth 
of the Mundaca river; it is steep and has a few detached 
rocks at its foot, and a hermitage and the remains of 
a battery on its summit. The Mundaca river^ formerl}’^ 
of considerable importance, is now so choked with sands 
that the channel on the western side is only navigable at 


140 


Tides. 



MUNDA(^A—ISAHO ISLET. 


141 


big’ll water for vessels of 0 or 7 feet draught as far as Arte¬ 
aga, and for boats as high as Guernica, interior villages. 
The bar is between a rock that always shows, close to the 
foot of Santa Catalina point, on the W., and the point of 
Laida’sand on the E. The channel is only 14 to 10 yards 
wide, with 14 to 10 feet water at low tide on the outer part 
of the bar, diminishing rapidly to 3 or 4 feet. In entering 
it is necessary to pass close to the rock that marks the bar. 
With winds of the SW. or XW. quarter the entrance is 
difficult, as the eddy wind caused by a large church on the 
W. shore is apt to set a vessel on the banks. With north¬ 
erly and northeasterly winds it is easy to enter, but gen¬ 
erally, and especially in winter, the winds blow off the land. 
No stranger should enter without a pilot. 

The town of Mundaca, with about 2,000 inhabitants, is 
on the W. bank about 300 yards within the bar. It is visi¬ 
ble from seaward, as is the parish .church already referred 
to. Here is a small harbor formed by a polygonal mole with 
a narrow entrance open to ESE., smaller than the port of 
Bermeo, and only large enough to accommodate a few coast¬ 
ers and the fishing-boats. 

It is high water, full and change, at the bar of Mundaca 
at 3‘^; springs rise 11 feet. The reflux of the waters that 
enter on the flood and the water from the river and its 
tributaries cause a stream on the ebb that runs not less 
than 3 knots an hour at springs. The sea at times breaks a 
great distance from the bar. 

NE. by N. from Mundaca river, and at IJ miles E. by N. 
from port Bermeo is Isaro islet, a third of a mile in length 
NW. and SE., and 130 yards wide, the ISE. and highest 
part having an altitude of 150 feet. It is rugged and sur¬ 
rounded by reefs which extend off* to a considerable, dis¬ 
tance, and should, not be approached within a mile when 
there is any swell. A round, rugged islet, named Arrie- 
derra lies 100 yards off’ the NE. part of the islet, leaving a 
boat-channel between. Isaro islet is rocky on all sides, and 
the only vegetation is on the summit where there are the 
remains of a convent. From the highest part of the islet 
cape MacUichaco bears N W. by W., Bermeo mole W. by S , 
and the hermitage of Santa Catalina de Mundaca SW. J S. 
The reefs of Isaro islet form a channel, miles wide, with 


Mundaca. 


Tides. 


Isaro islet. 


142 


CAPE OGO^O. 


Las Lobas. 


Coast. 


Cape Ogono. 


Ugiierrey point, and another, more than half a mile v^ide, 
with point Santa Catalina de Mnndaca, that carry to 13 
fathoms water, sand and patches of ro(;k. Tbe sea is heavy 
in the channels when there is any swell, and sometimes 
breaks. 

Two rocks, named Las Lobas, lie between Isaro islet and 
Anzora point; they are nearly united, show at low water, 
and have a channel on either side, the more navigable being 
the northern, between the rocks and Isaro, which carries 
25 feet at low water, and is quarter of a mile wide. In 
using it vessels should pass the rocks at a distance of 3d 
to 40 yards. The southern channel, between the rocks and 
Anzora point, is little used, having some sunken rocks in 
it; it is 50 yards wide and 17 feet deep. These channels 
should only be used with a smooth sea. 

The extensive sand of Laida almost chokes the mouth of 
Mundaca river, and is seen for a long distance in the 
break formed by the river itself, and, with Isaro islet, it 
forms a good mark for Mundaca and Bermeo. (View 53.) 
At the eastern end of this sand is the point of Anzora, also 
called Anzares, and Lara, rugged and surrounded by rocks. 
The village of Anzora is on tlie slope of the hill command¬ 
ing the point. At 1 mile farther E. is the promontory of 
Ogoho, and between the two are the bay and beach of An¬ 
zora or Lara conspicuous from a distance. Beyond the 
beach the bottom isnf sand with patches of rock. 

A steel), flat-topped,' and reddish colored promontory at 
the eastern end of Lara beach, is known as mount Ogoho, 
and is conspicuous from its height and position. Its most 
easterly point is cape Ogoho. On the summit of the mount 
is a lookout tower at an elevation of more than 1,001) feet 
above the sea. (View 54.) A rocky islet, named xVrguesto, 
is 100 yards off the S\V. part of the promontory, the most 
salient part of which is 5 miles SL. by E. | E. from cai^e 
Machichaco. The eastern part of the promontory forms a 
bight that retreats to the S\V. and forms the port of Elan- 
chove, inclosed by two solid moles, but only capable of 
sheltering a few coasters and ftshiug-craft. It dries at low 
water, and at high water, when there is sea from the NW., 
a considerable swell enters. The village of Elanchove, or 
Lanchove, is scattered along the heights over the port, 





COAST. 


143 


some of the houses being 4C0 feet above the sea. Popula¬ 
tion about 1,000, chiefly fisliermen and sailors. On the E. 
side of the cape there is good summer anchorage in winds 
from S\V. to W., where vessels of any draught nfay lie at 
100 to 200 yards from the SE. part of the mount in 12 to 15 
fathoms water, gravel, with Apiquel point on with point 
ISanta Catalina de Lequeitio, and the church of Elanchove 
open of the cape. As it is necessary to anchor so close 
inshore in order to obtain shelter, it would be diflicult to 
get away quickly in case of being surprised by an on-shore 
wind; the anchorage should not be used, therefore, by 
large sailing-vessels. In anchoring with strong westerly 
winds care must be taken against the heavy squalls and 
eddies that come down from the mount .of Ogofio. 

At 1J miles SE. by E. from cape Ogoho is Nachitiia, or Coaet. 
Irmichu point, steep and surrounded by rocks, and on the 
clifls above it are the houses of the village of the same name. 

About 3 miles ESE. J E. from i^’achitua point is point 
Apiquel, and the coast between the two forms Ea bay. The 
shore is all rocky, but about the middle of it there is a break 
to the southward with a small beach, where the little Ea 
river empties; the bar dries at low water. Etshing-boats 
and the smallest craft onl}^ enter at high water, and are 
sheltered by a mole within the bar. The entrance is nar¬ 
row, and dangerous with any sea. The town, with about 
1,200 inhabitants, is partly on each shore. There are many 
rocks in the vicinity of the entrance to tlie Ea, the most con'- 
spicuous, Callii arrijaga, being half a mile to the eastward 
and a little off shore. 

At half a mile E. of this rock, and less than 200 yards 
!NW. of point Apiquel, is Cacharri islet, rocky and barren, 
with a boat-channel some 50 yards wide inshore of it. All 
the coast from cape Machichaco to this point is high and 
steep, with breaks and ravines that terminate at the sea in 
cliffs, some of which are of considerable height. There are 
numerous rocks near the shore, and at point Apiquel these 
extend out for more than 200 yards. 

Point Apiquel or Ea point, sometimes called Montenegro^ 
is rocky and salient, and separates the bay of Ea from that 
ofOguella; it bears ESE., nearly, from cape Machichaco, 
and WNW. J \V. from Santa Catalina de Lequeitio. There 


144 


OGUELLA AND LEQUEITIO BAYS. 


Oguella bay. 


Mount Otoyo. 


Lequeitio bay. 


are reefs around it and it must be given a wide berth, as the 
sea breaks a long way out. 

From Apiquel point the coast bends to the southward to 
form Oguella bay, that terminates at point Santa Catalina 
de Lequeitio. The bay is tolerably deep ; the shore is rocky, 
and there is only one place accessible in summer to boats 
that load with fuel and the products of a neighboring fac¬ 
tory. The whole bay is strewn with rocks with some sandy 
patches, and a heavy sea sets in caused by the irregularity 
of the bottom. 

From Santa Catalina de Lequeitio point the land suddenly 
rises and forms mount Otoyo, also called Alto de Lequeitio. 

. (Views 54 and 55.) It is very steep to seaward and is easily 
distinguishable from the other mountains of this part of the 
coast. It has an elevation of 1,728 feet above the sea, 
and is a good mark for Lequeitio. Point Santa Catalina 
de Lequeitio projects from the base of the Alto de Leque¬ 
itio; it is steep on all sides, is about 140 feet high, and 
having a hermitage on it is very conspicuous. (Views 54 
and 55.) The point is clean and steep-to ; from it the coast 
trends in a southerly direction to Amaudarri point, from 
which a re»f sets out, several heads of which uncover at low 
water. About 40 yards NW. of the point is a rocky bank 
that only shows at low water springs, and on the point 
there are a guard-house and the hermitage of San Juan. 

The entrance to the bay of Lequeitio is between xYman- 
darri point and the western end of San Nicolas island, 300 
yards ESE. ^ E. The bay extends 400 yards to SSW., and 
at its head is a clean s^ud-beach extending from the town 
to the mouth of the Lequeitio river. The sands are shifting. 
The depth of water is 4 to 14 feet in the bay, and 16 to IS 
feet at the entrance. Occasional patches of rock are found. 
The port is inclosed by moles with an entrance open to 
ESE.; it is almost dry at low watef, and the bottom is of 
rock with a light laj^er of sand. It can accommodate the 
boats of the vicinity and a few coasters, but considerable 
swell enters when there is a heavy sea setting in. The an¬ 
chorage in the bay is good in fine weather, but vessels have 
to enter the port or the river if there is much sea from N\V. 
or NE. It may be taken with facility with wind from SW. 
through N. to SE., but with a SW. wind it is necessary to 


LEQUEITIO LIGHT. 


145 


close with Santa Catalina point, and keep the coast aboard. 

The Lequeitio river empties in a little bight in the SE. part 
of the bay and is spanned near its mouth by a bridge of a 
single arch j the mouth is narrow and scarcely covered at 
low water. Within the mouth there is a hole deep enough 
for 5 or 6 boats to lie afloat when the tide is out. Small 
coasting craft winter in the river. Tlie bar or entrance to 
Lequeitio bay is between Amandarri point and Bar rock, 
near San Nicoliis island; it is about 120 yards wide with 16 
feet water near the middle, which is the best place to cross. 

The town, containing about 2,500 inhabitants, is scattered 
around the shores of the bay, and near the beach S. of the 
entrance is the palace of Ulibarren. 

On the extremity of the cliffs terminating Santa Catalina 
de Lequeitio point there is a blue conical tower with green 2 ° 33' 32 " w. 
lantern, from which there is displayed, at an elevation of 
148 feet above the level of the sea, a fixed ichite light, visi¬ 
ble 10 miles in clear weather. 

It is high water, full and change, at 3^; springs rise 10 
to 11 feet, and neaps about 6 feet. The flood stream is 
scarcely perceptible, but the ebb is felt in the channel 
formed by San Nicolds island, and the swell at times is in¬ 
convenient. The flshermen act as pilots. 

The island of San i^icolds is of irregular form, and Nicolas 

quarter of a mile long NE. and SW.; it forms two channels 
into the bay, the NW. channel being the principal; the 
eastern channel is almost dry at low-water springs. The 
ruins of a battery are on the summit of the island, and two 
houses on the southern slope. It is rocky on its NW. and 
N. sides, and is about 140 feet high. 

The Alto de Lequeitio—mount Otoyo—and the hermitage Directions, 
of Santa Catalina are good marks in coming from NW. or 
N.; and San Nicolas island, the town of Lequeitio, Ulibar¬ 
ren palace, and the conical hill of Calvario, 288 feet high, a 
short distance S. of the town; are good marks when coming * 
from NE. or E. (Views 54 and 55.) To enter the bay, 
steer for the palace, giving Amandarri point a berth of 
about 30 yards. In the extreme case of a vessel having to 
run ashore on this part of the coast, the beach of Lequeitio 
may be chosen, as it is considered w^ell adapted for saving 
the lives of the crew, and the boats and villagers are prompt 
10 N c 


146 


SAUSATEN BAY. 


Sausaten bay. 


Ondarroa bay. 


Bar. 


to render assistance. The vessel should be beached as far 
to the westward as possible, and the soft character of the 
sand will secure the safety of the hull, especially if she is 
grounded at or near high water. 

At 3J miles SE. f E. from San Nicolas island is Santa 
Clara point, the coast between forming the ba 3 ^ of Sausaten. 
The shore of the bay is rather high, rocky, and broken, but 
clean and steep-to, there being 20 to 23 fathoms water, sand 
and mud, at 400 yards off it. The only villages to be seen 
are those of Endaidi and Mendeja, and two guard-houses. 
The NW. sea is not so heavy in this bay, on account of the 
depth of water and the smooth bottom, and in the opinion 
of the pilots it is a good anchorage for large vessels in 
winds from SE. to WSW. through S. The holding-ground 
is good, the anchors sinking well in. The best position is 
within a mile from the coast, between the two guard-houses, 
in 23 to 28 fathoms water. The only places approachable 
for small vessels are the coves of Endaidi, Chantarreca, and 
Barurdo, and the loading-places of Portuchiqui and Portu- 
andi, and these only with a smooth sea. The British 
squadron in 1812 used to anchor off the cove of Endaidi. 

sPoint Santa Clara, or Pena Mayor, is foul, and has a reef 
extending to SE. from it. It may be known by the con¬ 
spicuous white hermitage of Santa Clara, on the slope of 
the hill that forms the point. Between it and Mocoa point, 
a little to the westward, the bottom is of rock. 

From Santa Clara point the coast recedes to the SW. and 
forms the bay of Ondarroa, surrounded by a beach, the SE. 
limit of the bay being Santurrarau point, distant 600 yards 
from Santa Clara. Beefs setting out from both points nar¬ 
row the entrance. In the S. part of the bay is the mouth 
of the inlet of the same name, that trends a short distance 
to the southward, and then westward to the river Artibas. 

The bar, though shifting, is good, and is reputed the best 
between Machichacoand San Sebastian, and as it is protected 
by Santa Clara point from the NW. sea, it may be taken 
almost always at high water, and when no others can be 
approached. There are 12 to 13 feet water on the bar at 
high springs, and 1 to 2 feet at low water. Within the bar 
the depth diminishes gradually, so that the inlet dries at 
low-water springs; but vessels can lie afloat near the bridge 


TIDES—DIRECTIONS. 


147 


of the town. The port is visited by boats and coasters of 
8 or 9 feet draught, but the latter have to cross the bar at 
high water and with precaution, as the entrance is narrow. 

At a little more than half a mile within the bar is a mole 
or landing-place, where coasters load and discharge, but 
they lie dry at low water, and the pier is covered at high 
water. The town of Ouddrroa, containing about 1,800 in¬ 
habitants, is on the W. shore of the inlet, facing S., and is 
connected with the opposite shore by a bridge. The chief 
occupation of the inhabitants is fishing. The town has 
some commerce, and small vessels are built here. Pro¬ 
visions are readily obtained. 

It is high water, full and change, at 3^; springs rise 11 
feet and neaps 5 to 6 feet. Inside the inlet the water is 
smooth, as no swell enters,.and as the Artibas river is of 
inconsiderable size, no freshets are experienced. 

The best mark for Oudarroa from the westward is the Alto 
de Lequeitio, together with the point and hermitage of 
Santa Clara ; and from the eastward the island of Cuetaria, 
from which the vessel may be headed for Santa Clara point. 
To enter the inlet it is necessary to keep along the western 
shore, where the channel ustially lies in a NE. and SW. 
direction ; but no one not locally familiar should attempt 
to enter without a pilot. There are no regular pilots, but 
the fishermen act efficiently as such, and come out if signal 
be made for them. 


Tides, 


Directions. 


CuriciitS/ 


CHAPTER V. 

FROM SANTURRAEAN POINT TO THE BIDASOA RIVER. 

Variation in 1876.—18° 02' westerly; decreasing about 8' annually. 

The province of Guipiizcoa is limited on the W. by Saii- 
turrarau point and on the E. by the Bidasoa river, the 
boundary-line between France and Spain. It contains 
about 35 miles of a rocky, broken, but generally clear coast, 
which takes a nearly E. and W. direction with a bend to 
the southward. The ports are few and insecure except 
Pasages, that alone deserves the name, and where vessels 
of 14 to 15 feet draught can enter. 

As the coast of this province is visited in winter by strong 
NW. gales, the utmost precaution is necessary; for, if the 
small ports are missed, nothing awaits the vessel but a lee 
shore and probable destruction. For this reason every effort 
should be made to reach the port of Pasages, if neither 
Santander nor Santona can be reached. 

To avoid disaster it is strongly recommended to navigate 
near the coast, with a view to being able to recognize the 
land distinctly as it is passed, for the purpose of fixing the 
liosition of the vessel, as it is more or less obscured during 
NW. and SW. gales. Should it be necessary to stand off 
the land to wait for daylight, as much sail as possible 
should be carried, so as not to lose ground, for with the 
wind hanging steadily to the NW. the vessel will drift 
toward the head of the bay. When waiting for daylight in 
winter to enter any of the ports with a bar, and high water 
being from 9 to 11 a. m., a vessel should be in with the 
coast at daylight to take advantage of the favorable time 
tor entering. 

It should be borne in mind that the currents are stronger 
in proportion as the head of the bay of Biscay is ai)proached, 
and that there they turn to NB. and N., following the direc¬ 
tion of the French coast. With a KW. gale they attain a 



SANTURRAUAN POINT. 


11: {) 


rate estimatedjit 4 miles an lionr, and the pilots consider 
that they at times attain a rate of 5 miles. This strength 
of the current during the winter gales, that always haul to 
the N\V. quarter, accounts for the many disasters on the 
banks of Arcachon and Cap Breton. 

In summer, and during winds from the or SE. quar¬ 
ter, the current usually sets W. or VVNW. at the rate of 1 
or 2 miles an hour. 

The prevailing winds, both in summer and winter, are winds, 
about the same as on the Biscayan coast; the sea raised by 
those from NW. and X., when they blow strong, is enor¬ 
mous, and sometimes lasts two or three days after the 
winds cease. When this sea rises during calm weather, it 
generally indicates the approach of a NW. gale; it is some¬ 
times felt 24 or 48 hours before the wind. 

The galermis, or the sudden shifts of wind to the S. or the 
- N W., are more frequent on this than on the Biscayan coast. 

They only occur during the months of July, August, and 
September, after a prevalence of hot, southerly winds. It 
is seldom after a day of excessive heat that a galerna does 
not occur in the evening, the greatest strength of which 
lasts from ten minutes to half an hour. Occasionally the 
galerna comes on with the force of a hurricane without any 
warning. Many of the disasters that occur on the coast of 
Guipuzcoa during the summer, are occasioned by these sud¬ 
den squalls that overtake vessels in a calm .with all sail 
set. 

It was stated in the preceding chapter that Santurraran ^Janturrar.in 
point is the eastern limit of Ondarroa bay ; it is rockj', and 
has a reef extending off for a considerable distance. It is 
commanded by high, rugged land, the highest peak of which, 
Eyquilanchach, is on the boundary-line of the provinces of 
Biscay and Guipuzcoa. The beach of Santurraran, com¬ 
pletely exposed to the sea from NW., is on the western 
side of the point. From this point commences a stretch of 
high, rocky coast, commanded by an elevation known as 
mount San Nicolain. 

At 14 miles from Santurraran point, is point Oardal, sal- Caniai point, 
ient to NE., with a reef of rocks extending from it to NNE. 

The sea is very heavy on the prolongation of this reef, and 
a berth of 3 or 4 miles should be given the point in a NW. 


150 


POET MOTRICO. 


Por Motrico. 


Tides, 


Deva iulet. 


gale, and a vessel bound to Guetaria should keep cape 
O^ono well open of Santa Catalina de Lequeitio. 

Next to Gardal point is point Atalaya, or San Nicolas, 
barren and rocky, with a small lookout-house on its summit, 
called the Atalaya de Motrico, and southward of the point 
is a small cove with rocky shores receding to the SVV. 
Here, between two small piers, is the little port of Motrico, 
where fishing-craft and small coasters find refuge. The 
mouth of the port is narrow, and open to the SE.; the bot¬ 
tom is of rock, and the port dries at low spring-tides. 

Outside the entrance is a small space with 4 to 4J fathoms 
water, muddy sand, where vessels can lie in good weather; 
but if too large to enter the port they are in great danger 
if surprised by a gale. The port is only visited by small 
vessels, and in the summer, as during the winter, there is 
almost always a heavy sea from NW. on the coast. 

The town of Motrico, with about 2,200 inhabitants, stands 
on the rather steep slope of the land commanding the port? 
and the white houses are conspicuous from a great distance 
when to the eastward of Cardal point. Besides the town of 
Motrico, Atalaya point and mount Arno are good marks for 
this port. Mount Arno, known to the sailors as Alturas de 
Arno, is about 2,080 feet above the level of the sea, and is 
2 miles inland, SSW. J W. from Motrico; it extends to On- 
darroa inlet, and terminates to the NW. in another and less 
remarkable mountain, called mount Arnosate. 

It is high water, full and change, at Motrico at 3^; 
springs rise 10 feet. The current produced in the port, 
when there is much swell outside, is great, and is very try¬ 
ing to vessels anchored there. 

At IJ miles eastward of Motrico is Arrangasia point pro¬ 
jecting to the NE. from the rugged coast; it is surrounded 
by rocks, and on its eastern side is an indentation with a 
smooth sandy beach, for which boats usually run when, on 
account of the swell or low tide, they cannot reach the port 
of Motrico or Deva inlet. To the southward of this beach 
is the bar of Deva inlet. The inlet at the mouth of the 
river Deva, which finds its source in mount Aramo, is of 
little utility to navigation, as the bar shifts and is nearly 
dry at low water, and the sea often breaks on it even at 
high water. The channel is partly formed by two j)arallel 


Mount L<>(|ii(»iho. 


Nv r >4 ^ 





Point Catalina S, .VP K. Dial. 9 niilos 


Cij^o Ooofio 


Mount O^ono 


Calvario Hill 


'fount In^quoilio 


K? r>ri. 



San KicoJu’s l‘*S.*4W DiwI of.» uuU'’. 


Ii<*-t[neitio 


lu I inita^f oC Catalina N.HfPW. 


N'» 5ti. 


tin»*laj*ia It^luiul 


S.ti.P K. Dittt. .“i iuilos . 


y.iiiuava (niot 




































































































f 



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Nv 



0 










































SANTA CATALINA POINT. 


•T. ’ ^ ' 


151 


piers that nearly reach the bar; it is narrow, and there is 
much swell in it when there is a sea outside. Beyond the 
narrow part of the channel the inlet widens, and on its east¬ 
ern shore, on the NW. slope of mount Andiiz, is the town 
of Deva, with about 1,200 inhabitants, chiefly sailors and 
fishermen. Ooastiu^-vessels are built here. 

The inlet is gradually filling up, and has very little water 
in it at low tide when the bar is dry, except in a narrow 
channel, through which the waters ot‘ the river flow to the 
sea. At high spring-tides there are 11 or 12 feet water on 
the bar. 

Vessels bound to Deva inlet should take a pilot. The Pilots, 
pilots are licensed, and one will generally be found off the 
bar. Fees are as at San Sebastian. Pilotage is obligatory. 

It is high water, full and change, at and the rise is Tides. 

11 feet. The freshets of the Deva are strong, and vessels 
should be well secured. Each freshet clears and deepens 
the channel for a while. 

The marks for Motrico are also good for this port; others Marks, 
are mount Andiiz, 2 miles SE. of the town^ and the con¬ 
spicuous hermitage of S:uita Catalina E, of the bar on a 
height commanding the point of the same name; and other 
good marks are the Piedras Blancas, whitish fissures in the 
rocks farther east. 

Santa Catalina point is at the base of the hill of Santa Santa Cataima 
Catalina, on which is the hermitage; it is the eastern limit 
of the bight at the entrance to Deva inlet, and at low water 
some detached rocks show around it. The sea breaks some 
distance out, and a berth of at least a mile should be given 
the imint. 

A little more than a mile E. of Santa Catalina point is Pie^^s 

^ cas point. 

Achuri or Piedras Blancas point, in the middle of a rocky 
bay; the point is surrounded by rocks, and the bottom is 
very irregular, causing much sea in blowing weather, when 
a berth of 2 miles should be given to it. Piedras Blancas 
is the name given to some whitish fissures in the land over 
Achuri point, which in some parts are 415 feet above the 
sea, and, being visible at the distance of about 20 miles, form 
an excellent mark for this part of the coast. 

From Achuri point the coast runs eastward 2 miles, to 
Elorriaga point. The coast is rather high, of slaty cliffs, 


152 


ZUMAYA TOWN AND LIGHT. 


and has rocks off it, so it should not be too closely ap- 
I)roached. These cliffs terminate at San Teltno point, low, 
rocky, and surrounded by reefs 5 on a height above the 
Iioint is a hermitage of the same name. 

zuuiaya inlet. ^^^(3 eastward of San Telmo point is Zurnaya inlet, that 
recedes to SS W., and receives the waters of the Urola river. 
The bar of Zurnaya is a little better than that of the Deva, 
as it has more than 3 feet water on it at low spring-tides, 
but it can only be taken under favorable circumstances of 
weather, as tlie channel is very narrow; it lies between the 
w’estern shore and the sands of Santiago. The Urola river 
is unimportant in summer, but in winter heavy freshets 
come down, for which vessels should be well prepared. 
Near the town there is sufficient depth for the vessels that 
frequent the inlet to lie afloat at low water. 

Zurnaya. The town of Zumaya is on the W. shore of the inlet, at 

the foot of a little peninsula, called mount Santa Clara. It 
is seen from seaward when it bears SW. There is a mole 
near it for mercantile operations. Vessels up to 120 tons 
burden load in the inlet with lime, wrought iron, grain, &c., 
and bring in iron-ore. Population, about 1,200. 

Pilots. On account of the narrowness of the channel, no vessel 

should attempt to enter without the aid of a pilot. Pilot 
charges are the same as at Deva. 

Tides. If is high water, full and change, at Zumaya at 3^^; and 

the greatest rise is 11 feet. 

Light: Lat.43° Ou mouiit Ataluya (Santa Clara?), at 140 yards from the 
Jo shore and attached to the keeper’s dwelling, there is a tri¬ 

angular yellow tower with white lantern, from which there 
is displayed, at an elevation of 135 feet above the sea, a 
fixed ivhite light, visible 9 miles in clear weather. 

Marks. Piedras Blancas to the westward, and the island of 

San Anton de Guetaria, a short distance to the eastward of 
the inlet, are good marks for it; on nearing the land the 
hermitage of San Telmo, on a height over the W. point of 
entrance to the inlet, will be seen, when steer for it until 
near enough in with the land to signal for a pilot. 

Coast. Beyond the sand of Santiago, that obstructs the entrance 

to Zumaya, is the small bay of Orruaga, with a little beach, 
and a rivulet emptying into it. A tile-factory stands near 
the shore, 




aUETARIA BAY. 


153 


Beyond Orruaga beach is the low, salient point of Izus- 
tarri with a number of rocks around it that show at low 
water. When there is a heavy sea it breaks a long way off 
shore, and the point should be given a berth of at least a 
mile. Vessels bound to Gnetaria should keep 4 or 5 miles 
from Deva bay with a NW. wind. 

From IzUvStarri point the coast turns to the SE. for a short 
distance to Bizcarraya point, low, rocky, and foul. Between 
these two points there is a break in the land, through which 
a streamlet flows to the sea. Eastward of Bizcarraya point 
is the bay of Gastea-tape almost entirely skirted by rocks, 
some of which uncover at low water. Within the bay there 
is a little sandy beach. 

At the eastern end of Gastea-tape bay is San Anton or San Anton isi- 
Piedra Alzada island, about three-fourths of a mile in cir¬ 
cumference and rising 300 feet above the sea. It extends 
N. and S., and is connected with the main by a ledge of 
rocks, upon which a mole is built running NE. and SW., 
and about 150 yards long. The island is rugged with slaty 
cliffs on its NW. side, and terminates in two peaks, the 
northern one being the higher j on it are a light-house and 
the ruins of a hermitage. 

The island and the coast to which it is united form Gue- Guetanabay. 
taria bay that terminates at Alzacoarria point, and gives 
shelter from winds from the SW., and partly Irom the NW. 
quarters. The depth varies from 3 to 8 fathoms at low 
water, muddy sand, good holding-ground, and there is shel¬ 
ter from the westerly winds as far round as NNW., but not 
beyond, and at NNE. vessels are exposed to both wind and 
sea. The sea from N W. when heavy is disagreeably felt, 
but is not dangerous, but that from N. and NNE. is terrific; 
it seldom occurs, but in case of being surprised by it, it is 
generally better to secure the vessel as well as possible and 
laud the crew. Effective assistance is given by the boats 
of the port. The best anchorage is in 5 fathoms at low Anchorage, 
water, sand, about 100 yards SE. of the mole. Smaller 
vessels may go closer inshore and make fast a cable to the 
new pier. There is a warping buoy at the anchorage, at 
which vessels may lie temporarily, and the placing of others 
is proposed. 


154 


GUETAKIA—LIGHT. 


It is intended to convert this bay into a port of refuge, as 
it is considered the outpost of Sau Sebastian and Pasages, 
and it is well for vessels bound to either of these ports in a 
SW. gale, which renders their entrance difficult, to put in 
here. It is also a good port for vessels bound to Orio or 
Zuniaya when their bars cannot be crossed. 

Port. On the S. side of San Anton is the little port of Guetaria, 

formed by two moles inclosing a little space open to SW., 
and about 30 feet wide. It is almost dry at low water, and 
only fishing-boats and other small craft can enter. When 
there is much sea on, a disagreeable swell enters the port 
and the boats lie very uneasily. The bottom is of rock. 

Guetaria. The town of Guetaria is walled, and has a population of 

about 1,000. It is on the point of the main land between 
two cliffs 90 and 150 feet high, and communicates with the 
port by way of the mole. There are few supplies of any 
kind obtainable. A fine bronze statue erected to the mem¬ 
ory of the distinguished pilot, Juan Sebastian de Elcano, 
by the province, stands at the head of the bridge connect¬ 
ing the town with the mole. 

Light; Lat.43° On the northern peak of San Anton island there is an 
octagonal white tower rising from the keeper’s dwelling, 
from which there is displayed, at an elevation of 295 feet 
above the sea, a fixed ivhite light, visible 10 miles in clear 
weather. 

Tides. is water, full and change, at Guetaria at 3^ • and 

the rise is 11 feet. 

Directions. Aiiton island is the best mark in making Guetaria bay. 

In coming from the W. it will stand out well from the land 
and will be recognized by the saddle formed by its two 
peaks. (View 56.) The cliffs hide all of the town except 
the steeple and the roofs of a portion of the houses. 
In coming from the N. the island appears like a cone and is 
blended with the high lands of the main, but the white sand 
of the beach of Zarauz, eastward of Guetaria, will show the 
position of the bay. The bay may be entered with any 
wind. If the wind is from S. the beach of Zarauz should 
be approached as closely as the state of the sea will permit, 
and the southern shore kept aboard to the anchorage j but 
in this case it must be remembered that reefs set a short 
way out from Itegui point, and that there is the shoal of 



ALZACOARRfA POINT. 


155 


Antimon-arna. which will be described farther on, to the 
SE. of it. With winds from W. to NW. give the N. point 
of the island a berth of one-fourth of a mile, and do not 
haul to the wind until the church spire in the town opens 
E. of the island. This is necessary not only to avoid the 
reefs near the point, but also on account of the swell and 
the eddy wind from the island. With westerly winds too 
strong to allow working in the bay, a vessel may anchor as 
soon as 8 or 9 fathoms water are obtained, when she will be 
sheltered. 

Alzacoarrfa point, the southern limit of Guetaria bay, is 
low and surrounded by rocks; it is commanded by high 
rugged land. Between the point and the town of Guetaria 
there is a small sandy beach named Malcobre, and with the 
exception of this the shore is rocky and commanded by 
cliffs more than 00 feet high. 

Point Itegui is a tongue of land projecting from the foot 
of a cliff half a mile SE. by E., nearly, from Alzacoarrfa 
point. At 200 yards SE. of it is the rock of Antiinon-arria 
with a passage inshore of it 170 yards wide and carrying 
5 to 8 fathoms water. The rock only shows at low spring- 
tides, when it has the appearance of a buoy; it is much 
feared by the coasters. 

A short distance SSE. from Itegui point is that of Alle, Coast, 
projecting from the foot of mount Santa Barbara, on whose 
summit there is a hermitage. This point forms the western 
extremity of Zarauz bay, a shallow bight that terminates 
to the. eastward in Malla-arria point. A clear, level beach, 

IJ miles long, bounds the bay, but it is exposed to the 
worst winds of the coast. 

The town of Zarauz—at present in a flourishing condi¬ 
tion from its manufactures of textures and from its being a 
popular summer resort for strangers—stands on a plain 
near the beach in the western part of the bay. A small 
pier for landing extends from the middle of the town, and 
a rivulet discharges at the western end of the beach. Pop¬ 
ulation about 1,400. 

Point Malla-arria projects from the foot of a hill named 
Talayameudi, at the eastern end of the bay and plain 
of Zarauz; the point is surrounded by rocks, many of them 
showing, and the most conspicuous is Malla-arria, a rather 


ORIO INLET—TOWN. 


small, pointed rock, isolated at liigli water. A heavy 
sea sets in on the jmint, and a good berth should be given 
to it. At IJ miles N. of the islet there are 31 fathoms 
water, sand. 

At 3^ miles E. by N from Malla arria islet is point Tierra 
Blanca, the coast of Orio bay between being high and 
rocky. The bay is funnel-shaped, receding considerably 
to the S., and almost in the middle is the mouth of the inlet 
of Orio that recedes to SSE., and then turns to the E. The 
entrance is very narrow, and the bar has only 2 feet water 
on it at low spring tides. It isopen to NNW., and a heavy 
sea sets in on it in on-shore winds. The channel lies be¬ 
tween a ledge of rocks, skirting the eastern shore, and the 
cliffs of the opposite, so it is necessary to keep close to 
the western shore in entering, and then steer for and in the 
middle of the channel to the town; the bar is of shifting 
sand, and it is absolutely necessary to have the assistance 
of a pilot in entering. Within the entrance the inlet widens 
and the water deepens. 

Pilotage is obligatory. There are regularly licensed pilots, 
and boats to render assistance. Very fine weather is neces¬ 
sary to enter or leave Orio inlet. Vessels bound for it 
when the bar cannot be crossed, anchor in Guetariabay. 

The river Orio takes its rise in the Pyrennean range, 
passes Tolosa, and, after a course, of about 33 miles,empties 
into the inlet above the town. It is of rather less depth 
than the Deva, but the freshets are very strong, and vessels 
anchored in tlie inlet must secure carefully for them. 

The town of Orio, containing about 1,100 inhabitants, is a 
little more than half a mile within the bar, and on the east¬ 
ern shore. There is a dock here where vessels of different 
classes are built for San Sebastian and other ports. 

It is high water, full and change, at Orio inlet at 3^^; and 
the greatest rise is»ll feet. 

In coming from the W. San Anton island and the beach 
of Zarauz are good marks for this port, and from the E. the 
old and new light-houses of San Sebastian, that city itself, 
and mount Agudo, which forms a portion of mount Iguel- 
do, and is E. of the inlet. A good distant mark from the 
northward is mount Hernio, which rises about 7 miles in¬ 
land, S. by E. from the mouth of the inlet. 




MOUNTS IGUELDO AND HERNIO. 


157 


At COO yards E. of the mouth of the inlet is the low islet 
of Aranarri, about 35 yards long iii an easterly and west¬ 
erly direction, and near the coast; inshore of it is a chan¬ 
nel used by boats when the sea is smooth. Another and 
smaller islet, named Arribaton, lies eastward of this one, 
and near point Tierra Blanca. It is only about as large as 
a boat, and is covered at high water; only the smallest 
class of vessels can pass inshore of it. 

A series of white cliffs mark the eastern limit of Orio bay, 
and form a point that projects somewhat to the N"., but is 
only discerned from seaward when the sun shines on the 
cliffs. Above these is a peak called mount Agudo, or Men- 
dizorroz, that attains an elevation of 1,514 feet above the 
sea, and forms a good mark for this part of the coast. 

Point Tierra Blanca is followed by Galera point to the 
eastward, somewhat more prominent, and commanded by 
high land forming a part of mount Igneldo; a reef extends 
northward from it for a considerable distance, and a good 
berth must be given to it. Between this point and the east¬ 
ern extremity of mount Igueldo, the coast forms the small 
bay of Galera, with a little beach near the middle of it. The 
bay is clean and navigable. 

At the mouth of the Orio the coast becomes high and pre¬ 
cipitous to San Sebastian bay, and the high land backing it 
is named mount Igueldo. The most remarkable elevation 
of the mountain is the peak of Agudo, a little to the east¬ 
ward of Tierra Blanca point. The cliffs of this part of the 
coast are of a slate rock, and, when wet, reflect the rays 
of the sun and then appear in large white patches ; but in 
cloudy weather they do not present the white appearance 
that has given them the name of Tierra Blanca, but have a 
grayish color that contrasts with the green appearance of 
the background. 

From the offing is seen mount Hernia, beyond the high 
lands of the coast, with three peaks not very prominent, and 
rather close together, but sufficiently marked to distinguish 
it from the rest for a long distance. It is 7 miles inland 
southward of Orio inlet, and has an altitude of 3,537 feet. 
Farther to the westward is also seen above the high coast, 
another peaked mountain, named Itzarriz, which is nearly 
S. of Zuinaya inlet and 6 miles in the interior. Both these 


Coast. 


Mount Igueldo. 


Mount Hernio. 


158 


MOUNT URGULL. 


mountains are good distant marks from seaward for the in¬ 
lets of Zumaya and Orio, and the bay of Guetaria. 

Monte Frio. Mouut Igueldo terminates to the eastward in a hill 623 
feet in height, and with a slope of 45° to the N., named 
monte Frio. On the summit of the hill is a square tower, 
formerly used as a light house, that is still an excellent mark 
for San Sebastian bay. The new light-house is on the north¬ 
ern slope of the same hill. (Views 58 and 59.) A rocky 
point, named Arruicobajd, projects from the foot of monte 
Frio, and a reef extends out from it that has fathoms 
water on it at 200 yards from the shore. 

Mount urguii. ^ gimPar to the one just described, and named 

mount Urgull or Orgullo, is rather more than half a mile 
ENE. of it. It is steep, and forms a promontory united to 
the main land by a low, sandy tongue of land occupied by 
the city of San Sebastian, the capital of the province of 
Guipuzcoa. The hill is covered with fortifications, the forts 
being generally of brick and of light construction, with only 
a few guns of small caliber. On the summit of the hill is 
the castle of Santa Cruz de la Mota, generally known as La 
Mota castle, 492 feet above the sea. 

A quadrangular white tower, from which until lately a 
provisional light was shown, is on the XW. slope of the hill, 
and, contrasting with the dark background of the hill, is 
visible from a long distance, and is an excellent mark for the 
bay. 

The cliffs of mount Orgullo are more conspicuous than 
those of monte Frio, and the whitish patches of slate rock 
of which they are composed are seen also from a distance* 
From the foot of the hill a short reef of rocks, named Cala- 
baca reef, extends a little way to the NVV. 

Santa Clara isi- Between the two hills just described is a rocky islet 190 
“ ‘ feet high, named Santa Clara island. It lies ENE. and 

WSW., and is more than 400 yards long, and on it there is 
a small white house on the site of the old hermitage of 
Santa Clara; there is also a light house. The island is clear 
of danger on its S. and E. sides, is foul on the N., and is 
connected with monte Frio by a reef that uncovers at low 
water, and on which some stones, formerly deposited to form 
a port of San Sebastian bay, yet remain. 


























JaiH(|uivol . 




M- l<arru} 


if* Ttiui'ldo. 





( ajM* 


I'fijai Pivsii«5i*s 


Frio K. Disi. 6 milos, 


Fn Mota CasiK*. 


M! UalaJlrra 


























































































SAN SEBASTIAN BAA". 


159 


A bank between 300 and 400 yards long ENE. and WSW., Bancha bank, 
is about 350 yards to the northward of Santa Clara island. 

It is called La Bancha, is of rock, and has 2| to 5J fathoms 
water on it at low spring-tides ; the sea breaks on it when 
there is any swell. Thechannelsbetween it and mount CTrgull, 
and between it and monte Frio, are more than 400 yards 
wide and are equally clear of danger, and between it and 
Santa Clara the only dangers are close to the island. The 
depth of water is about the same in these three passages, 
being 7 to 10 fathoms in mid-channel, and either may be 
used. 

Between the hills of Frio and Urgull the bay of San -Sau Sebastian 
Sebastian recedes to SE. for half a mile. The coast of the^^'^ 
bay is low, and it is surrounded by a beach of white sand 
broad enough at low water to considerably reduce the ca¬ 
pacity of the bay. The bottom is clean except in the SW. 
corner, and in the middle of the bay there are 3 to 5J fath¬ 
oms water at low springs, but it is shallow on the western 
side. Vessels that cannot enter the basin anchor under the 
limited shelter of Santa Clara, where they are exposed to 
gales from NW. to NE., for the heavy sea that sets in 
through the channels E. and W. of Santa Clara island is 
occasionally sufficient to cause the loss of vessels and their 
crews. 

There are seven buoys in the most sheltered part of the 
bay for the use of vessels. These buoys have large rings 
secured to heavy moorings, and vessels ride with two cables 
ahead and two astern, head-to NNW. 

The bay is not adapted in winter for vessels that cannot 
enter the basin, and those in the basin should not go out if 
there is any probability of a NW. wind, as the little shelter 
experienced, the impossibility of re-entering the port, and 
the great difficulty of securing properly, are weighty reasons 
against it. So that a vessel bound for San Sebastian in 
winter from the westward, and with bad weather from that 
quarter, should wait in Guetaria bay, or some other wind¬ 
ward port, for a change of wind. The bay should only be 
entered with moderate winds that will allow of working in, 
if necessary, and of easily reaching the buo^^s. The ground- 
tackle usually carried by vessels is generally insufficient in 
this bay, and spare anchors and cables are obtained from 


160 


SAN SEBASTIAN. 


Port. 


Town. 


shore. The heavy sea that enters with on-shore gales sweeps 
the bottom, and, shifting the sands, carries with them the 
heaviest anchors. Hemp cables are preferred to chain, as 
they stand better the sudden surgingot the swell. Finally, 
during these gales, any assistance from the shore is an im¬ 
possibility. 

At the foot of mount Urgull, on the southern side, is the 
port of San Sebastian, a basin formed by two moles running 
westward from the town and two others running eastward 
from the foot of the mount, with a narrow entrance. At 
high water vessels of 300 tons, or of 10 feet draught, can 
enter, but it is necessary to secure to the piers or to the other 
vessels, so as to remain upright when the tide is out, as a 
great portion of the port is then dry. A small pier has 
recently been constructed so as to form a basin in the south¬ 
ern part of the port, where the larger vessels can always 
lie afloat and secure from the swell from NVV. It was con¬ 
structed to contain 32 vessels, of 200 tons each. Vessels 
intending to enter the port anchor duritig line weather off 
the entrance or under Santa Clara island to wait for a fav¬ 
orable time and tide. Large vessels should have the assist¬ 
ance of the country boats aiid men, as, from the position of 
the entrance and its narrowness, their - aid is necessary. 
There is a store house on the western mole, where spare 
anchors, cables, and other requisites may be obtained. 

The town of San Sebastian, with a population of about 
9,000, is strongly fortified, being defended by outworks on 
nearly all sides and commanded by La Mota castle. The 
fortifications immediately to the S. of the town have re¬ 
cently been demolished. It is connected with the interior 
by rail, but what portions of the contemplated roads are 
completed is hard to state. Some of them have been in 
part destroyed since 1871. It is a favmrite summer resort. 
The houses are almost all modern, built uniformly in straight 
streets and regular squares, so as to present an ai)pearance 
quite unlike most Spanish towns, and there are some fine 
public buildings. Manufactures are insignificant, and the 
commerce is carried on chiefly by small steamers and coast¬ 
ers. There is a considerable trade in English and French 
goods, corn, iron, wool, and other articles being exported. 


SAN SEBASTIAN LIGHTS. 


161 


Water is taken from a reservoir on the mole, and provisions 
may be easily obtained. 

On the nortlieru slope of Monte Frio there is a circular 
white tower attached to the keepers dwelling, from which 
is exhibited, at an elevation of 428 feet above the sea, a 
fixed white light varied by a fiash every 2 minutes, and visi¬ 
ble 15 miles in clear weather. 

On the summit of Santa Clara island, at the eastern part, 
is a cylindrical tower of blue limestone, rising from the 
keeper’s dwelling, from which is displayed, at an elevation 
of 174 feet, a fixed white light varied hy a fiash every minute, 
visible 9 miles in clear weather. 

There is an establishment for pilots at San Sebastian, and 
vessels are boarded well outside the bay in fine weather. 
If the state of the sea does not allow the pilots to go out 
they remain under the lee of the eastern point of Santa 
Clara island and signal with a flag to the vessel coming in. 
If the flag is kept upright the vessel is to keep on her course 
or head more to starboard or port, according as the flag is 
pointed. The pilot-boats are large and good sea-boats. 

Pilotage is com[)ulsor 3 ' for all vessels over 50 tons. Those 
of 50 to 100 tons pay 120 reals; those of 100 to 200 tons, 
150 reals; and above 200 tons, 180 reals. Cables are hired 
at the rate of 28 reals a day. ^ 

There is a duty of 2J reals a ton on all merchandise im¬ 
ported, called gate dues, or cadena. 

It is high water, full and change, at the port of San Se¬ 
bastian at 3^, but the tide may be accelerated or retarded 
according to the wind. The rise at equinoctial spring-tides 
is about 14 feet, at ordinary springs 11 feet, and at neaps 
5 or 6 feet. With strong winds from the NW. quarter the 
tide rises from 1 to 2 feet above the ordinary level, as at all 
the ports of this coast, and there is a corresponding depres¬ 
sion with northeasterly and easterly winds. The tidal cur¬ 
rent is scarcely felt at the piers; on the coast in fine weather 
the flood sets E. and the ebb W. With gales from NW. or 
SW. there is a strong current setting E., that must be taken 
account of when near the shore. 

The bay can be taken with all winds except those from 
the SE. quarter, remembering the cautions already given in 
the description of the bay. With winds from SSW. to W., 
11 N C 


Lights: Lat. 43° 
19' 33" N.; long. 
20 01' 01" W. 


Lat. 43® 19' 30" 
N.; long. 2® 00' 06" 

W. 


Pilots. 


Tides and cur¬ 
rents. 


Directions. 


102 


DIRECTIONS. 


Marks 


and blowing bard, it is somewhat difficult to enter by the 
channel between Baucha shoal and Monte Frio on account 
of the eddy winds and squalls, caused by the mount. 
With wind from the NW. quarter one or the other channel 
may be used indifferently 5 and with wind from the NE. 
quarter the channel between Bancha shoal and mount Ur- 
gull should be preferred. 

With a smooth sea small craft can pass over the Bancha, 
but it must be avoided when there is any swell, and when 
the sea is heavy the eastern channel should always be used, 
keeping in mid-channel, or at about 300 yards from mount 
Urgull. 

When strong winds from NW. or 'N'. prevail, the breakers 
on Bancha shoal, which show well, are the best mark for it. 
With winds from W. to NW. brace sharp up, as the current 
and swell set directly toward mount Urgull. With a heavy 
sea there are breakers outside of Baucha shoal, and a con¬ 
tinuous breaker across the entire opening of the bay. 
Should such a condition be anticipated, a vessel should en¬ 
deavor to enter some other port. In winter, and partic¬ 
ularly during the months of January and February", when 
the land is humid and cold, the winds of the SW. quarter 
prevail on the coast, even when it is blowing a gale from 
NW. in the offing 5 so that it often happens that a vessel 
running with a strong NW. wind and a heavy sea, and con¬ 
fident of reaching the port, will find the wind grow scant, 
draw off shore, or fall calm. This is one of the greatest 
dangers a navigator can meet with in making for this bay, 
for, in the heavy sea, a vessel drifts unmanageable toward 
the land, the only hope being in the assistance of the boats 
of the port should they be able to go out. 

The position of San Sebastian is easily recognized. Com¬ 
ing from the westward the large tower on Monte Frio will 
be seen. It is conspicuous, an excellent mark, and cannot 
be mistaken. La Mota castle on the summit of mount 
Urgull, the white square tower on the northern slope of the 
same mount, and the light-house on the northern slope of 
Monte Frio are equally good marks. 

From a distance seaward mounts Hernio and Itzarriz are 
good marks for determining the position of the port, as well 
as mount Urdaburu, G miles inland, SE. J S., from the 


MARKS—COAST. 


163 


mouth of the bay, remarkable for two peaks on its summit 
inclining eastward, and lower down another one leaning in 
the same direction. 

Another good point of recognition is mount Aya, or Tres 
Coronas, generally called Batallera. (Yiew 57.) It is 9 
miles ESE. J E. from mount Urgull, extends NE. and 
SW., and is known by the three peaks on its summit, the 
southwestern being the least pointed, and all having an 
inclination in that direction. Its elevation above the sea is 
2,780 feet. In approaching the land the bay will be dis¬ 
tinctly made out, (Views 58 and 59,) and the island of Santa 
Clara, the houses of the village of San Martin at the head 
of the bay, and finally the town of San Sebastian will be 
seen. 

In approaching the eastern passage to San Sebastian bay 
do not bring Santa Clara light to bear southward of S. J W. 

The church of San Bartolome (at the head of the bay 
on rising ground near the shore)*in line with mount Urda- 
buru, SE. I S., leads between Bancha bank and mount Ur- 
gull; and when tbe piers of San Sebastian are seen the 
vessel may take up a berth in the bay according to her 
draught. 

The low, rocky point of Mompas or Animas is a short Coast, 
mile NE. J E. from the northernmost part of mount Urgull. 

It falls in declivities from the high lands that form part of 
mount Ulia, and on a height commanding the point there is 
a lookout-house. Between mount Urgull and Mompas 
point is the bay of Zurriola, the shores of which recede to 
the SE. It is strewn with rocks and reefs, partly covered 
by a wide sandy beach that borders all the bay and dries 
out considerably at low water. 

The Urumea river traverses this beach and falls into 
the sea by mount Urgull; it is of little draught in summer, 
but is navigable in i^art for boats. The bar dries at low 
w^ater, and it is only at high water and in fine weather that 
boats can attempt itj once within the bar, however, they 
can go as high as the town of Astigarraya with the flood. 

The wooden bridge of Santa Catalina crosses the river near 
the bar. 

At half a mile NE. by E. J E. from Mompas point is point 
Talayero or Atalaya j it is high and steep, and at 400 yards 


164 


PORT PASAGES. 


Port Pasages. 


NW. J W. from it is Pequecliilla rock, covered with less 
than 3 feet water at low spring-tides; the sea breaks on it 
when there is any swell, but in case of necessity small 
coasters can pass inside of it. 

Point Talayero is followed by point Arando Chico, which 
is IJ miles E. J K from it. This point is low and rocky, 
and is commanded by rugged land 400 feet high, called 
cape La Plata. Point Arando Chico is the W. point of en¬ 
trance to the port of Pasages. All the extent of coast be¬ 
tween points Mompas’ and Arando Chico is high and very 
rugged, and is a portion of the northern slope of the Sierra 
de Mirall, usually known as mount Ulia. Between cape La 
Plata and Arando Chico point the coast forms a little un¬ 
important bay, named lllurguita. 

The rocky point of Arando Grande is 180 yards E. | IS", 
from that of Arando Chico, and forms the eastern point of 
entrance to the port of Pasages; both points, otherwise 
called Great Arando point and Little Arando point, are 
clean and steep-to at low water, but at high water they are 
partly covered and the entrance appears wider than it really 
is. This beautiful port, which until latterly was frequented 
by the largest vessels trading along the Cantabrian coast, is 
to-day almost choked with mud ; and the banks that dry at 
low water, and are gradually increasing from the deposit 
brought down by the freshets, already extend almost to the 
houses of the town. The land on either side of the entrance 
is high and rugged and from 450 to 550 feet in height, and 
within the entrance they are craggj' and rugged; the en¬ 
trance-channel runs from the middle of the mouth of the 
port SE. for 600 yards to Cruces point, with an iron cross 
on it, on the western shore; in this part the eastern shore 
is fronted by rocks extending out some 30 yards, and some 
of which show; the western is clearer for the first 300 
yards, but thence to Cruces point it is bordered by a rocky 
shoal, called Los Sepes. Many of the rocks on this shoal 
uncover at low water, and between them there are from 1 to 
3 fathoms water; the most salient of them are about 120 
yards NNW. | W. from Cruces point. 

This point takes its name from the mount from which it 
projects, a high, rocky hill, with a rapid declivity to the 
channel of the port, and the mount takes its name because, 



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PASAGES. 


165 


at about one-fourth up, there were formerly several iron 
crosses, of which only one now remains. 

From this point the channel turns to the S., and at 200 
yards farther in, on the eastern shore, is the castle of Santa 
Isabel, at the foot of a high hill and close to the water. 
This is the first building seen on entering the port, and 
abreast of it the river is nearly 200 yards wide. The 
cove of Bursa iS between the castle and Arando Grande 
point on the eastern shore, and that of Condemasti is on 
the western shore opposite the castle; each of them has a 
little beach where only boats can land. 

From the castle of Santa Isabel the estuary gradually 
narrows, and at one-fourth of a mile S. by E. f E. from the 
castle is the tower of Pasages and the battery of San Se¬ 
bastian on the western shore. The tower is rounded to the 
E. and square to the W.; it is high and closefo the water’s 
edge. In former times it was used as the residence of the 
cai)tain of the i)ort and as a signal station. Abreast of the 
tower the channel is 120 yards wide, and here is the usual 
anchorage for vessels drawing more than 10 feet, in 3J to 4 
fathoms water. Just beyond, both banks spread to form 
what was the spacious port of Pasages, receding 600 yards 
to the VV., and more than half a mile to the E.; at the 
eastern extremky is the village of Lezo, and here the estu¬ 
ary turns again to the S. and terminates in an arm of the 
sea that receives the waters of the river Oyarzun. All this 
latter part can only be used for small craft, as it dries at 
low water. 

The town of Pasages is built on both shores at the nar¬ 
rowest part of the port, at the foot of the hills that border 
the channel, and partly at the widening of the port facing 
the S. The town on the western shore is named Pasages 
de San Pedro, or more commonly Pasages de Espana, and 
has about 500 inhabitants, chiefly occupied in the fisheries 
and in navigation. That on the eastern shore is known as 
Pasages de San Juan, or Pasages de Francia. It has about 
twice as many inhabitants as the former, and has some 
building-docks and a few factories. On the western shore 
is the government dock. Communication with each other 
is kept up by boats. The government dock is now disused 
and in decay, that of the Philippine company is deteriorat- 


Pasagf'S. 


1G6 


EAST AND WEST BANKS. 


ing rapidly, the forts are in ruins, and are only used as 
g'Liard-liouses, and it may almost be said that no trade is 
carried on. Besides the institutions alreadj^ mentioned, 
there is a machine sho[) where small vessels repair. The 
exhalations from the mud that lies dry at low water are 
very disagreeable in summer, but apparently not dangerous 
to health. There is much rain, but otherwise the climatye 
is very pleasant; the hills are covered wfth underbrush, 
and in the little patches of cultivated laud there is very 
luxuriant growth. 

Behind fort Isabel is a strong spring of good, clear water 
that may be i)umped directly into vessels at the bank. 
Coal is not alwa^'S to be had unless ordered beforehand. 

The hermitage of Santa Ana on the slope of the hill com¬ 
manding the houses of Pasages de San Juan is the second 
building seen after entering the port, and is GOO yards SE. 
I S. from the castle of Santa Isabel. 

East and West Outsidc the poi't are two rocky patches, one named East 
bank, 85 yards long E. and W., and about 200 yards NE. ^ 
E. from Arando Grande point; there are from three-fourths 
of a tathom to 1| fathoms water over it, and from 3J to G 
fathoms in the channel, about 100 yards wide between it 
and the coast. Close-to on its northern side there are 11 
to 12 fathoms. 

The other, the West bank, is NNW., nearly, from point 
Arando Chico, distant about IGO yards; it is about 135 
yards off shore, and there are 1 to 2J fathoms water on it 
at low spring-tides, with 4^ to 0 fathoms between it and the 
shore, and 4^ to 5J immediately around it. Eastward of it 
and toward the entrance to the port there are 20 fathoms. 

To clear the West bank in coming from San Sebastian it 
will be sufficient to keep 400 yards oif shore when near the 
port of Pasages, and not to change course to the S. until 
Santa Ana hermitage is seen open of Cruces point. And 
to clear the Bast bank in coming from the eastward along 
the coast it is sufficient to keep 200 yards off shore until 
N. and S. with point Arando Grande, or until the mouth of 
tlie port is open. The sea breaks on both these banks when 
there is any swell. The projects for marking the banks 
with beacons have probably been interfered with by the 




\ 


PASAGES LIGHTS. 


107 


disturbed state of the country or the decadence of the port, 
as no information has lately been published in that regard. 

On cape La Plata, near the W. point of entrance to port 
Pasages, there is a circular white tower, 47 feet high, from 
which there is displayed, at an elevation of 484 feet above 
the sea, Oi fixed white light, visible 10 miles in clear weather. 

The leading light shown on the hermitage of Santa Ana 
was extinguished April 22, 1875, and in its place three pro¬ 
visional lights are shown, as follows: On the northern part 
of the wall of the castle of Santa Isabel there is '<1 fixed red 
light, visible 3 miles in clear weather; and .on the sourhern 
part of the platform of the same fort there is a fixed white 
light, visible 3 miles in clear weather. These two lights in 
line lead through the outer part of the entrance channel, 
clearing the points of entrance, the banks outside, and 
Cruces point. 

A red fixed light on the store-house of military supplies 
comes in sight as soon as a vessel is clear of Cruces point, 
and leads tlirongh the inner i)art of the channel. Vessels 
may anchor as soon as the castle of Santa Isabel is passed. 

At the port of Pasages and the other harbors on this 
coast the activity of the native seaiuen alleviates the dan¬ 
gers considerably, as they are always ready with their boats 
in piloting and towing in. Here, as at San Sebastian, the 
regulations ordain that the first boat reaching the vessel 
must be employed, and if more than one is needed they are 
taken in the order in which they come alongside. Both 
men and boats are well qualified for towing, mooring, or 
warping. When the sea is sufficiently heavy to prevent 
their going outside they remain under the lee of Arando 
Chico point, and signal to the vessel with a piece of cloth 
or a handkerchief on a stick which is pointed in the direction 
the vessel is to head, or held upright if she is to keep her 
course, and the pilot boards directly she is within the points. 
At night a lantern is used that sometimes causes mistakes, 
and great attention is necessary. In bad weather, wdien 
they cannot venture out, a lookout man is stationed on the 
heights near the mouth of the harbor to signal the approach 
of vessels, and if necessary a gun is fired to attract atten¬ 
tion. 


Light; Lat. 43° 
20' 10" N. : loug. 
1° 56' 33" W. 


Harbor lights. 


Pilots. 


\ 


168 


DIRECTIONS. 


Tides. 


Directions. 


The pilots are regnlarly licensed, and it is compulsory for 
all classes of vessels to pay pilotage. Those under 50 tons 
pay 58 reals; from 50 to 100 tons, 144 reals; from 100 to 
200 tons, 196 reals; and those above 200 tons, 220 reals. 
Boats used are paid for besides the pilots, by a regular 
tarilf; and in bad weather vessels may depend on a sup- 
l)ly of anchors, cables, hawsers, &c. 

It is high water, full and change, at the port of Pasages, 
at 3^20“; equinoctial tides rise 15 feet; ordinary springs 
12 feet; and neaps about 9 feet. The ebb stream runs 
sometimes 3 milas an hour. 

In making the port of Pasages from the westward its po¬ 
sition may be recognized by the light house at San Sebas¬ 
tian, and La Mota castle. One of the best marks from 
seaward is the light-house of cape La Plata, on a plain 
above the cape, and remarkable for its whiteness, but it is 
only seen when at least 1 or 2 miles northward of the port, 
as, if close inshore, it will be shut in by the land. From a 
long distance seaward, wlien the light-house cannot be 
distinguished, mount Urdaburu, 5 miles in the interior, S. 
of the port, is a good mark, and also the mountains of 
Jaisquivel and Batallera to the eastward, mounts XJrgull 
and Frio to the westward, and the ravine or break of the 
opening of the port. (Views 57 to 61.) The land eastward 
of the port is flatter than that to the westward of it. 

Should the weather be thick or foggy, the approach to 
the harbor is well indicated by the soundings, as at 15 miles 
northward of the entrance the depth is 90 to 110 fathoms, 
gradually decreasing to25 or 30 fathoms at about 2 miles 
from the coast, over sometimes a sandy and sometimes a 
rocky bottom. 

Winds from WNW. to ENE. through N. are fair for en¬ 
tering. Other winds are ahead in the different turnings of 
the channel, which is too narrow to admit of tacking. lu 
moderate breezes from the SE. or SW. quarters, vessels can 
kedge or tow with the flood to an anchorage within the en¬ 
trance. A W. wind at first appears fair, as it draws to 
NW. within the entrance as far as Cruces point, but here 
it veers to SW., with squalls, placing the vessel in danger, 
as this is the narrowest part of the channel, and it is onlj^ 
when this wind is light that a vessel can tow past the castle. 


DIEECTIONS. 


1G9 


When bound, therefore, to this port from the westward 
with a W. wind and bad weather, if possible run into San 
Sebastian and wait for a change, or, if sufficiently bir to 
y the westward, find shelter in Guetaria bay? the anchorage 
there being safe and easily taken. 

A sailing-vessel entering the harbor should have a fair, 
fresh wind and a flood-tide. A moderate wind outside gen¬ 
erally dies away between Cruces point and Santa Isabel 
castle; but the tide, added to the ship’s way, with boats to 
assist, will keep her out of danger. The sea also should be 
moderate at the entrance, for with a heavy i?ea outside the 
water is so disturbed in the harbor as to prevent the ves¬ 
sel’s steerage. 

Steering for the harbor, the first buildings seen will be the 
castle of Santa Isabel, and about a quarter of a mile within 
it, on the same shore, the chapel or hermitage of Santa Ana. 
When about a quarter of a mile from the entrance, the her¬ 
mitage of Santa Ana just open of the iron cross on Cruces 
point, or the extremity of Cruces point on with the western 
angle of Santa Isabel castle, or the E. point of entrance on 
with Cruces point, will lead to the entrance and clear of the 
East and West banks. When within the points borrow 
toward the eastern shore to clear the bank of Los Sepes, off 
Cruces point, keeping pretty well over until the tower of 
Pasages, at San Sebastian, is midway between the above 
point and Santa Isabel castle, when head for the tower, 
keeping midchannel, in the deepest water, until the castle 
is passed, when bring up with a stern anchor in 3^ to 4 fath¬ 
oms water, and run a stout hawser out from each bow to 
rocks on shore bored through for the purpose. At high 
water there will be room for the vessel to swing, when moor 
head and stern, especially in winter, when a sea sets in and 
whirling gusts of wind rush down through the breaks in the 
hills around the harbor. Small vessels that can go within 
the tower of Pasages experience less effect from the swell, 
and lie secure in all weathers. The anchorage for larger ves¬ 
sels is nearer the eastern shore, where the water is deepest 
and the strength of the current least. 

At night tXie fixed red and fixed white lights on Santa Isa¬ 
bel castle lead through the outer part of the channel, clear¬ 
ing the banks, Arando Chico point, and*Cruces imiutj but in 


170 


CAPE HIGUERA. 


bad weather a vessel should open the lights a little by bor¬ 
rowing toward the eastern shore, so as to make sure of clear¬ 
ing Los Sepes bank. When clear of Cruces point the 
red light on the store-house comes in sight, and leads through 
the inner part of the channel and past the castle. 

The fixed white light on cape La Plata goes out of sight 
when a vessel is 118 yards distant from Arando Grande 
point, and is seen again when she is 110 yards distant from 
point Cruces, so that on dark nights a vessel keeping within 
the limits of obscuration of the light will keep at a sufficient 
distance from the points. 

Steam-vessels, from their facility in being able to enter at 
any time, will find Pasages an excellent port of refuge, and 
those lying at San Sebastian should make for this port at 
the appearance of bad or threatening weather. 

Mount Jai8- Mouiit Jaisquivel rises from the eastern bank of port Pa- 
sages, and extends 7 miles NB. by E. to cape Higuera. This 
mount is also called Olearzii or shoulder of the mountain, 
in allusion to its being the last of the Pyrenees toward the 
sea-coast. It gradually rises to its highest point about 4 
miles from the cape, where it attains an altitude of 1,940 
feet above the sea, and whence it slopes again gradually to 
the cape. (View 61.) It has various inequalities on its sum¬ 
mit, and the coast at its base is barren, rocky, and in j^art 
of cliffs. The most salient point of this coast is point Tur- 
rulla, 3^ miles NE. from the mouth of port Pasages. This 
extent of coast is clean, and only about the point there are 
a few rocks. From Turrulla point the base of mount Jais- 
qnivel extends in a rather more easterly direction for 3^ 
miles to cape Higuera, with nothing notable about it except 
Asabaratza bay, a little break in the coast, where there is a 
small beach that boats can approach when the sea is 
smooth. 

Cape Higuera, Cape Higuera is the eastern termination of mount Jais¬ 
quivel and the W. point of entrance to Fuenterrabia bay. 
It is rocky and is surrounded by reefs that uncover at low 
w'ater. (Views 57 and 6L) The rocky islet of Amuck lies 
about 200 yards northward of the cape, is of moderate 
height, rugged, and is connected with the main by a reef 
that uncovers at low water, and by means of which the 
island may then be reached. Another reef extends 




HIGUERA LIGHT. 


171 


from the islet and it must not be too closely approached 
when there is any sea. At 600 yards from the islet, and on 
the southern cliffs of cape Higuera, is the castle of this 
name; there is also a light-tower about 20 feet high on the 
northern cliffs. 

On cape Higuera there is a white stone tower, from which 
is exhibited, at an elevation of 285 feet above the sea, w. 

fixed ivliite light, visible 7 miles in clear weather. A late 
Spanish Hydrographic notice states that this light is at pres¬ 
ent extinguished. When displayed, care must be taken not 
to mistake for it t\\^ fixed ichite light on point Socoa, G or 7 
miles to the eastward. 

The anchorage of Higuera is ESE. of Higuera castle, pro- Anchorage, 
tected by the cape from winds from the SW. and a part of 
the NW. quarters. Up to WNW. the shelter is good, but 
with wind at NW. or NNW. a heavy sea sets in. The best 
berth is 400 to 600 yards E. or E. by S. from the castle, ac¬ 
cording to the vessel’s draught, in 6 to 8 fathoms water, 
muddy sand, good holding-ground. During strong NW. 
winds this anchorage should not be used, particularly in 
winter, because if the wind veers to NNW. or N., a vessel 
would have-no shelter, and unless of very light draught 
could not run for Fuenterrabia. 

The E. point of entrance to Fuenterrabia bay is the French ^^Fuenterrabia 
l^oint of Santa Ana or Arretas, 1J miles E. by S. from cape 
Higuera. Point Santa Ana is surrounded by reefs, and close 
off’its western side are two round rocks, resembling towers. 

At two fifths of a mile NE. of the point are the Black 
rocks, Bodies Noires, that show at low water, and at three- 
fourths of a mile N. of it is a ledge of rocks, named Briquets 
reef, extending two-fifths of a mile E. and W., several heads 
of which uncover at low water. The reef is narrow, and 
between it and the Black rocks is a channel 600 yards wide, 
but with many dangerous rocks in it. The soundings close 
around the reef are 3 to 7 fathoms, increasing rapidly to 
seaward, in which direction there are 17 fathoms at the dis¬ 
tance of less than three-fourths of a mile. The soundings 
between these reefs and the cape are from 4.J to 16 fathoms, 
the bottom being generally of rock on the French side, and 
sand and mud on the Spanish. 


172 


FUENTERRABIA BAY. 


Inlet. 


Bar. 


Irun. 


Fuenterrabia. 


The bay is only three-fourths of a mile deep to the S W., 
as it is Mien almost completely filled by the sands. 

From Higuera castle the coast runs SSW. high and cliffy, 
for four-fifths of a mile, and then SSE. to the town of Fu- 
enterrabia, IJ miles distant from the castle. The banks of 
sand that extend out from both the French and Spanish 
shores form the inlet or channel of Fuenterrabia, accessible 
for vessels of 10 feet draught under favorable circumstances. 

The bar is shifting, but is generally near the Spanish 
shore. It dries 2 or 3 feet at the lowest tides, but within it 
there are 2J to 5 feet at low water in the channel that leads 
to the village and mole of Magdalena, about 400 3 'ards north¬ 
ward of Fuenterrabia. The wash of the Bidasoa river and 
the sands thrown up by the sea have formed and are form¬ 
ing large banks that are gradually extending farther out, 
and constantly changing in form and height, with only naT- 
row and tortuous channels between them. In cases, as at 
Magdalena, villages have been built on these banks, and 
their surfaces are utilized for the purposes of cultivation. 
The bar is constantly advancing, and in course of time will, 
no doubt, be abreast the cape. When there is a heav^y sea 
it sometimes breaks as far out as the castle. This fact, to¬ 
gether with the instability of the channel and the little com¬ 
merce of this locality, causes the inlet to be frequented only 
in summer and b^' coasting-craft and boats that bring iron- 
ore and coal for the factories of Navarre, to which these 
articles are lightered by way of the Bidasoa,-and load with 
timber for Bilbao and Santander. 

No directions can be given for crossing the bar. Vessels 
that have to enter the inlet take a pilot, usually one of the 
fishermen, and pay as at San Sebastian. The smallest craft 
can go with the tide as high as Irun, where there is a mole, 
and the larger moor off Magdalena. 

Irun, the first town on the Spanish frontier, has about 
2,800 inhabitants. It is on the southern slope of mount 
Jaisquivel, and the road to France passes through it. Near 
it is the He de Faisans, or island of Pheasants, covered with 
vegetation, but scarcely above water. 

Fuenterrabia is also on a height setting off from mount 
Jaisquivel, on the western shore of the inlet. It was formerly 
of considerable strength, but is now a miserable, dilapidated 


BIDASOA RIVER. 


173 


place. The inhabitants, numbering about 800, are chiefly 
engaged in fishing. 

The Bidasoa river, the boundary-line between France and 
Spain, is navigable for lighters for a considerable distance. 
Its waters fall into the inlet above the bridge of Behovia, 
the first town on the French frontier. Beyond the He de 
Faisans are large banks of muddy sand, formed by the 
river and tidal currents. One of the channels kept open 
by the stream passes by the village of Hendaye, a French 
town on a little eminence three-fourths of a mile E.of Fuen- 
terrabia. 

It is high water, full and change, at the bar of Fuenter- 
rabia at 3^ 15“, and the rise is B3 or 13 feet. The velocity 
of the ebb-stream at springs is 3 miles an hour. 

The best mark for Fueuterrabia bay is mount Jaisquivel 
to the westward, which terminates to NE.in cape Higuera. 
Another mark from the offing is mount Aya, or Batallera, 
already described, miles inland, and S. of cape Higuera; 
and another distant mark is mount Larrum, 8 miles SE. | S. 
from cape Higuera. The latter mount will be known by its 
conical appearance, when bearing southeastward, and by 
the hermitage on its summit. 

In approaching from the westward it is only necessary to 
give Amuck islet a good berth, on account of the reef north¬ 
ward of it. Approaching from the eastward give point 
Santa Ana a berth of a mile to avoid Briquets reef. Amuck 
islet, W. by S., leads N. of the reef; and Santa Ana point, 
SSE., or Fuenterrabia church, S\V. by S., leads westward. 
There are to 7 fathoms water between the reef and the 
Black rocks, but no vessel should attempt this passage. 
With the exception of a rocky patch with 23 feet water on 
it, in the middle of the bay, the bottom is clear and the 
depths decrease gradually toward the bar. Give the shore 
of the cape a berth of a quarter of a mile in passing. 

The prevailing winds in this locality in winter are from 
SW. and N W., generally with rain. In summer, gales from 
E. and NE., with clear weather, are frequent. The currents 
generally follow the direction of the wind. 


Bidasoa river. 


Tides. 


Marks. 


Directions. 


Winds. 






WEST COAST OF FRANCE 


BY 


LIEUT. SEATON SCHROEOER, 


UNITED STATES NAVY. 










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CHAPTER VI. 

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS ON FRANCE. 


The portion of coast described in this work is that com¬ 
prised between the Bidasoa river, the boiindarj" between 
France and Spain, and Melgorne point, the northwest ex¬ 
treme of France. The work includes Onessant island. 

South of the Gironde river this coast is rather low and 
uniform, with sandy downs, and is generally clear of out¬ 
lying dangers. T’arther north it is higher, broken, and 
skirted by islands and numerous shoals. 

For winds, currents, and soundings see Chapter I. 

The question of tides is one of special interest on the 
French coast, as regards both the rise, which opens to nav¬ 
igation a number of ports that otherwise could not be en¬ 
tered, and the currents, which, independent of the oceanic 
eddies, frequently serve to shorten passages. 

The tide-wav^e, which in mid-ocean is several thousand 
miles in length, obeys laws similar to those that govern the 
ordinary waves of the sea. Its height depends greatly upon 
the inclination of the plane over which it advances, being 
least where the great depths approach most closely to the 
shore. Thus, at the head of the bay of Biscay, where great 
depths are found at short distances off shore, the tides rise 
very little. Leaving the slope of the Pyrenees the rise and 
fall increase northward, as the 100 and 200 fathom lines of 
soundings diverge from the coast, and a difference of level 
of 9f feet at Saint-Jean de Luz becomes one of 17J feet at 
the mouth of the Gironde, 19J feet at Aix island, and 26J 
feet at Brest. Off the first depths of 90 fathoms are found 
at 15 miles, and off the last at 85 miles.* 

* The amplitude of the tide-wave is also affected by local causes. Off 
the Pertuis the height of the tide is far from equal to that near I’lle 
d’Aix. Ou the Plateau de Rochebonne a rise of 11^ feet correspouds to 
one of 16^ 40 miles to the eastward. 

12 N C 


Tides. 



178 


TIDES—CURRENTS. 


As regards the propagation of the tide, the velocity of 
the wave varies with the depth of water; this is forcibly 
' illustrated iu the comparison of Brest and the port of Pa- 

sages ; the former city is to the westward of the latter, and 
yet, although the tide-wave comes from the westward, high 
water occurs on full and change days 32 minutes earlier at 
the latter than at the former. 

This apparent inconsistency is explained by consideration 
of the fact that the speed of the tide-wave is greatly dimin¬ 
ished by the shoaling of the water ; the velocity, which is 300 
miles an hour iu the Atlantic, is reduced to 13 miles in the 
mouth of the Loire. The change in depth from 2,700 fath¬ 
oms to 4 fathoms, produces a diminution of f| in the veloc¬ 
ity. 

During neaps the foregoing does not alw^ays obtain. For 
instance, at Aix island, while the retardation of spring-tides 
is 15 minutes as compared with the port of Pasages, during 
neaps high water occurs after the time of the same at Brest. 
This is due to local influences. 

The practical result of all the preceding is, that the height 
of the tide increases from south to north along the French 
coast, and the times of high water vary but little between 
the extremes. 

Tidal currents. In the study of the tidal currents off the French coast, it 
will be noticed that their rotation is always effected with the 
sun, or in the direction of the hands of a watch. This is 
exactly opposite to that of the general current of the gulf, 
and is possibly brought about by that very fact. At low 
w^ater the course of the ti<lal stream varies from north to 
west between the Spanish coast and He d’Yeu ; but farther 
north it is WiTVV. and WSW. Near Penmarc’h the greatest 
speed is ordinarily two hours before low water, and the least 
at high water. In the offing the change of direction takes 
place later, sometimes as much as li hours after low water. 
In many places, including the Pertuis, the neighborhood of 
La Teignouse rock, and off' the entrance to Le Morbihan, 
slack-water ebb often occurs 40 minutes after low water. 

The maximum speed of the flood is generally felt before 
half tide, and is always inferior to that of the ebb. The cur¬ 
rent generally begins to set in briskly under the surface, 
stirring up the mud at the entrances of rivers. Its effect is 


/ 

TIDE SIGNALS. 

often noticed in this way, while the ebb is still running out 
at the surface. 

In the interior of some of the estuaries indenting the coast, 
the direct inoveinent of the currents is reversed. 

Observations ot the lower currents show that they rotate 
in the same way as those at the surface, but are generally 
half an hour ahead. 

Tide-signals are made by means of balls and of flags, ex¬ 
hibited from a mast and yard. The former are used to de¬ 
note the depth of water in the channel; the latter, to indi¬ 
cate whether the tide is ebbing or flowing. 

To summarize tlie accompanying table, a ball at the in¬ 
tersection of tlie mast and the yard denotes a least dei)th of 
feet throughout the channel. 

Each ball on the mast, under the first, adds feet. 

Eacli ball on the mast, above the tirst, adds GA feet. 

A ball at the yard arm, seen to the left of the mast, de¬ 
notes an additional dei)th of about 10 inches. 

• A ball at the yard arm, seen to the left of the mast, de¬ 
notes an additional depth of about 19 inches. 

In ports where it is not necessary to be so precise, the 
mast is not fitted with-a yard, and the depths are only given 
in whole metres. 

To indicate which tide is making, there are used a white 
flag, with bla(;k diagonal cross, and a black pennant. They 
are only shown when the depth in the channel exc.eeds GJ 
feet. 

When the state of the sea forbids entering the port, a red 
flag is substituted for the other signals. 


179 


Tide-signals. 


. \ 

180 TIDE SIGNALS. 

TABLE OF TIDAL SIGNALS. 



9 ft. 10 in.. 10 ft. 8 in. 11 ft. 6 in, 12 ft. 4 in. 13 ft. 2 in. 



14 ft. 


-a>—• 

(I 

14 ft. 10 in 


15 ft. 8 in. 



16 ft. 5 in. 



17 ft. 3 in. 



18 feet. 


■if—• 


18 ft. 10 in. 



24 ft. 8 in. 25 ft. 6 in. 26 ft. 3 in. 27 feet. 27 ft. 10 in. 28 ft. 8 in. 



















































WEATHER AND PILOT SIGNALS. 


181 


lu addition to tbe established storm-warning (exhibition 
of a black cylinder,) the following system of weather- 
signals was adopted in 1870, for the principal ports and 
shipping places on the coast of France. 

1 . A flag of any color indicates: weather doubtful, barom¬ 
eter inclined to fall. 

2. A short pennant, (cornet): appearance of bad weather, 
heavy sea, barometer falling. 

3. A pennant: appearance of better weather, barometer 
rising. 

4. A ball above cornet: entrance of the port has become 
dangerous; be careful. 

5. A ball below cornet: the life boat is coming out. 

The pilots for the different ports on the coast are under 

the orders and supervision of a chief pilot. All vessels 
above 80 tons burden are obliged to take one, but in many 
ports a reduction is made in the charges for steamers. 

All vessels requiring a pilot in the daytime will make Piiot-signais. 
use of the following signals, either separately or together : 

1 . The jack, or national flag, having round it a white 
border one-fifth the breadth of the flag, to be hoisted at 
the fore. 

2 . The international-pilotage signal, indicated by P. T. in 
the United States edition of that code. 

At night the following are to be used: 

1. Pyrotechnic light, commonly known as a blue light, 
every fifteen minutes, 

3. A bright white light, shown at intervals of fifteen 
seconds, just above the bulwarks, for about a minute at a 
time.* 

In reply, the pilots will repeat the signal in the same 
manner with the white light, which they are required, by a 
previous decree, to show every 15 minutes. 

When, from stress of weather, or other cause, it is impos¬ 
sible to board a ship, piloting signals are made in many 
ports to guide vessels in. They are given in the body of 
this work, under directions for entering the Adour river j 

* The master of a vessel is bound to see that no person under his com¬ 
mand shall display any of these signals on other occasions than those 
permitted by these ordinances. 



182 


SIGNAL STATIONS. 


being the same wherever used at all on the coast, they 
need not be repeated. 

m stress-9 ig- jjj day-time the following distress-signals will be used, 
either separately or together : 

1. A gun fired at intervals of about 1 minute. 

2. The international code signal of distress indicated by 
N. 0. in the United States edition of that code. 

3. The distant signal, consisting of a square flag having, 
either above it or below it, a ball or anything resembling a 
ball. 

' At night the following will be used : 

1. A gun fired at intervals of about 1 minute. 

2 . Flames on the ship, (as from a burning tar-barrel, oil- 
barrel, &c.) 

3. Eockets or shells of any color or description fired one 
at a time at short interv'als. 

The Postes electro-semaphoriques of the French coast 
have been established at all points from which vessels can 
be most easily seen in the offing. Unfortunately their po¬ 
sition has not in all cases been selected with a view to en¬ 
able vessels to see their signals. 

The stations consist of a one-story house surmounted by 
a mast about 35 feet high, fitted with three arms, one above 
the other, and each one of which has a disk at the extremity. 
The arms revolve in a vertical plane round their hinge on 
the mast, and the latter pivots on its base so as to present 
the whole system squarely to the vessel, or other station, 
receiving the message. 

The buildings are recognizable from a distance by their 
regular shape; they are generally painted either white or 
yellow, with a black mast; they use the International Code 
of Signals, and on the approach of a vessel they make the 
number of the port or point by that code. The one mast 
serves to display all the flags used in signaling, but a mes¬ 
sage can sometimes be repeated to other stations more 
quickly by the arms than by the combinations of flags. 

All the stations have a wire to the nearest general tele¬ 
graph-office; they are under the supervision of captains of 
the French navy, excepting so far as the care of the electric 
apparatus is concerned. A ship-master can send a message 


BUOYS AND BEACONS. 


183 


to almost any part of the world by signaling with the In¬ 
ternational Code. 

On the French coast, in entering a harbor, all buoys and B«oysand bea- 
beacons painted red must be left to starboard, and those 
painted black to jiort. The beacons below the level of high 
water, and all warping-buoys, are painted white. The small 
rocky heads in frequented channels are painted in the same 
manner as the beacons when they have a sufficiently con¬ 
spicuous surface. Buoys or beacons painted in black and 
red stripes may be passed either to starboard or to port. 

Each beacon or buoy has upon it in full length or in ab¬ 
breviation the name of the danger it marks, also the num¬ 
ber showing its numerical order in the same channel. These 
numbers commence from seaward; the even ones on the 
red buoys, and the odd on the black. The letters and num¬ 
bers are painted in white on tlie most prominent parts of 
the buoys, and are from 10 to 12 inches in length. The 
masts of the beacons which do not present sufficient sur¬ 
face are surmounted for this puri)ose by a small board. All 
jetty heads and turrets are colored above the half-tide level, 
and on the former a scale of metres (1 metre = 3.2809 Eng¬ 
lish feet) is marked (jommeucing from the same level, except 
where the contrary is specially stated in the bod^ of this 
work. 

In navigating among the channels of a coast at night, Night naviga- 
however well it may be lighted, there is considerable incon¬ 
venience and some danger in the exclusive use of the com¬ 
pass. Besides having to make a different correction for 
local deviation for every course steered, there are the usual 
difficulties in illuminating the azimuth-compass card with¬ 
out blinding the observer; and it may frequently happen 
that some object (especially boats in a man-of-war) may 
screen the light as its bearing is about to be taken. Also, 
if there be much sea running, and the ship roll or pitch so 
as to disturb the compass, whether it be sluggish or lively, 
the observation cannot be very close. 

For these reasons there has been an attempt made to in¬ 
troduce the sextant as an aid to the pilot on the coast of 
France, and in several places it has met with considerable 
success, having been tried by captains of merchant-vessels 
as well as of men-of-war. The result aimed at is to make a 


184 


NIGHT NAVIGATION. 


ship describe an arc of a circle in clear water, instead of a 
simple straight course, by bringing and keeping two lights 
at the same angle apart. Clamping the instrument before¬ 
hand at an angle corresponding to the arc giving a route 
clear of dangers, and bringing the vessel on that arc, she 
may bQ kept on it as accurately as on the range of two 
lights ahead or astern. A little i)ractice will make the ope¬ 
ration quite easy. 

When the reflected light coincides with the one seen di-, 
rectly in the horizon-glass, the fact of their opening a little 
shows that the vessel is leaving the arc, running either out¬ 
side or inside of it, and the course must be changed to keep 
her on it. It is only necessary to use small helm, and keep 
in mind the following rules, which, once mastered, are as 
simple as those for keeping two lights in line. 

1. Taking the case of a vessel heading, in the direction 
of the light that is seen directly with the reflected one to 
the right of it; if the latter open to the right of the former, 
the angle is increasing, and the vessel should go to port; 
if it open to the left, the angle is decreasing and she must 
go to starboard. 

2. In case of heading in the direction of the light seen 
directly, with the reflected one to the left of it: if the 
latter open to the left of it, the ship should go to starboard; 
if it open to the right of it, she should go to port. 

In case of having to reflect the one nearest the ship’s 
head, from the other being feeble, or from any cause, these 
rules are reversed. 

3. Steering away from the light seen directly, with the 
reflected one to the left of it: if the latter open to the left, 
the vessel must go to port; if it open to the right, she must 
go to starboard. 

4. Steering away from the light seen directly, with the 
reflected one to the right of it: if the latter open to the 
right, the ship should go to starboard; if it open to the 
left, she should go to port. 

Steamers alone can adopt this system of navigation at 
all times; sailing-vessels making the circular course may 
frequently bring the wind ahead. But they can sometimes 
perform the evolution; for instance, entering Benodet bay, 
it can be done when the wind is in the SVV., and those 
winds are very frequent there. 


PORTS OF REFUGE. 


185 


Vessels can find a lee under Peufret island, (of Les Glenaus Ports of refage. 
group,) He de Groix or Belle-Ile during heavy westerly or 
southwesterly weather. If caught by a southerly gale to 
the westward of Peuinarc'h, it is not advisable to try to 
weather that point, if the sea be running high, as the sur¬ 
face current sometimes runs2 knots au hour to leeward; it 
would be better to stand out to sea or ruu for Douarnenez 
bay, doubling the Chanss6e de Sein, or passing through 
the Kaz, as circumstances of tide and weather may dictate. 

The great natural advantages of Brest roadstead as a port 
of refuge have long been recognized. 

South of Belle-Ile small vessels can run into Le Croisic 
for shelter from west or southwest winds, but should be 
careful to avoid entering the Vilaine or Loire rivers. La 
Chaise anchorage in Bourgneuf bay would be preferable to 
either of the latter. 

During a northwesterly storm, a ship could scarcely hold 
on in He de Groix or Belle-Ile anchorages, nor would that of 
La Chaise be desirable, but a ship could put into Benodet 
bay, Port Louis roads, Quiberou bay or the Loire. 

During the winter southeast gales are frequent, and on 
the approach of one it would be advisable to make a lee 
under Belle-Ile, or in Quiberou or Bourgneuf bays. 

South of the Loire river, the Pertuis are, in all weathers, 
the best ports of refuge. In case of heavy westerly weather 
it is best to make the Pertuis d’Antioche, as*the bar of the 
Pertuis Breton (9 fathoms) breaks under those circum¬ 
stances during a strong ebb-tide. Pallice anchorage would 
be found a snug berth, and next to it that of Aix island. 

If driven into the Pertuis Breton, however, Pallice anchor¬ 
age could be made; a vessel dismantled could drive into 
Aiguillon bay and ground in the mud without injury. If 
in the vicinity of He d’Yeu, a ship could hold on well under 
Corbeaux point, abreast La Couche bay. 

Along the coast of Les Landes, what few little harbors 
there are cannot be entered by vessels of any size during 
westerly gales. At the head of the gulf safety can be found 
at the mooring-buoys in Saint-Jean de Luz bay, since the 
construction of the breakwaters at the entrance, but if to 
windward of the port of Pasages it would be wejl to run in 
there. 


CHAPTER VII. 

THE BIDASOA RIVER TO THE GIRONDE RIVER. 

Variation in 1876.—Bayonne, 18° 05' westerly; Bassin d’Arcachon, 
18° westerly. 

The first headland E. of the mouth of the Bidasoa river, 
the boundary for some distance inland between France and 
Spain, IS point Sainte-Anne. (See Chapter Y.) 

Coast. From point Sainte-Anne the coast-line runs ENE. f E. 3 

miles, to the western point of the bay of Saint-Jean de Luz, 
which is recognizable by the castle of Socoa. This sloping 
and rocky coast is fringed with reefs the whole length, and 
is less high than that of the adjacent province of G-uipiizcoa. 
From seaward, before the shore is visible, high land can be 
seen in the interior extending to the westward. This is the 
Pyreneean range. 

jean^de Before speaking of Saint Jean de Luz bay, some details 

will be given of the plateau of the same name, which 
extends from 4 to 5 miles to seaward of the coast between 
Fuenterrabia bay and the entrance to the Adour river. A 
vessel has nothing to fear in crossing this bank in smooth 
weather, the least depth being 6 fathoms, ranging from that 
to 35 fathoms; but in bad weather the sea breaks heavily 
on the shallow patches, and the shore should not be ap- 
l)roached too close. The bottom is generally rocky, with 
here and there patches of sand and occasional gravel. The 
general limits of the bank are as follows : In the SW. the 
first shoal spot is Belhara-Perdun, li miles from the coast, 
two-thirds way between point Sainte-Anne and Socoa. By 
keeping the summit of mount Jaisquivel open to the north¬ 
ward of cape Higuera a vessel will be clear of all danger. 
The northeastern limit is found by bringing the old signal- 
tower, on the southern shore of the entrance to the Adour, 
in line with the flag-staff of Le Boucaut. 

Principal shoals. The bank of Saint-Jean de Luz has eleven principal 


BANK OF SAINT-JEAN DE LUZ. 


187 


heads that break in rough weather. They are as follows, 
commencing with the southwestern most: 

Belhara-Perdiui, which extends two-thirds of a mile east 
and west, is found by bringing the steeple of Saint-Jean 
de Lnz over the fort of the jetty of Socoa, or the summit 
of mount Esnaou over the house of the fort of Socoa, 
and the town of Fuenterrabia well open of point Sainte- 
Anue, or Le Tombeau, as it is called on some old charts. 

The least water on it is 7§ fathoms. A vessel is clear, to 
the northwestward, so long as the old fort of Hendaye is 
open of point Saiute-Aune. A vessel is inside, to the south¬ 
ward, when the church-steeple of Saint-Jean de Luz is seen 
through the cut between the fort of Socoa and the coast. 

Aroca-Tiquia is a small shoal, with fathoms on it. The 
marks are, the steeple of Saint-Jean de Luz over point 
Sainte-Barbe, and the summit of mount Oambo over the 
inlet of Guethary. It breaks at the same time as Belhara- 
Perdun. To go outside of it, keep Saint-Jean de Luz open 
to the westward of Sainte-Barbe point. 

The soundings on Ficoa-en-Oala give a least depth of 10^ ricoa-eu-caia. 
fathoms, and immediately^ around it are 16 and 18 fathoms. 

The marks are, the steeple of Saint-Jean de Luz over point 
Sainte-Barbe, mount Oambo and the steeple of Guethary 
in line, and the clock-tower of Fuenterrabia touching the 
outer rock off point Sainte-Anue. 

Illarguita-hour-Handia isa large bank, IJ miles long, north 
and south, and three-fourths of a mile broad, east and west, 
with 12 fathoms water on it. The marks are, mount La 
Batallera, or La Gouronn^e, over the hermitage of Saint- 
Martial, the tower of Socoa touching Bourdagain on its 
left, and the summit of mount Oambo open to the right of 
Guethary. 

Oampo-Banco is circular in shape, with a diameter of one- Campo-Banco. 
half mile. The shoalest spot, covered by lOJ fathoms of 
water, is found by the tower of Bourdagain well open to the 
westward of point Sainte-Barbe, the church of Fuenterrabia 
just open of Sainte-Anne point, and the summit of Oambo, 
also called Ursula, or Mendi-Handia, a little open to the 
right of Bidart. 

Placeta-hour-Ohoumiac, commonly called simply Placeta, cSiimfaV 
is a large bank. If miles long, NE. and SW.^ the south- 


188 


BANK OF SAINT JEAN DE LTJZ. 


Herreca - hour - 
Choumiac. 


Esclabotac, or 
Basse d e s E s - 
claves. 


Grande A r o - 
quiagne. 


ern part is five-sixths of a mile broad, SE. and NW. Least 
depth llj fathoms. Bearings for the centre, mount La 
Khune well on with point Sainte-Barbe, and the top of 
Mendi-Ohoumiac beginning to appear above the Maisou 
Etche Handia of Bidart. 

The sea rarely breaks on Herreca-hour-Choumiac, com¬ 
monly called Herreca, there being 14f fathoms on the shoal- 
est spot, the bearings for which are Saint-Martial (hermit¬ 
age) to the- right of the highest peak of mount Batallera ; 
the summit of mount La Rhune between the steeples of 
Siboure and Saint-Jean de Luz, a little nearer to the latter 
than to the former. A vessel will remain clear of this 
shelf, and consequently of the whole bank, it being on the 
seaward edge, by keeping Amuck island on with mount 
Jaisquivel. 

Esclabotac has only fathoms on it, and is consequently 
the first to break. Its bearings are the tower of Bourda- 
gain, barely open of point Sainte-Barbe, and the old villa 
Eugenie (the late emperor’s palace) just open to the north¬ 
ward of the big rock at Biarritz. 

The least water on the Grande Aroquiague is fathoms, 
but directly inshore of it, IJ cables from the edge, is a shoal 
of 8j fathoms. Bearings of the former are: Guethary au 
Sud in line with the easternmost slope of La lihune, and 
tlie tower of Bourdagaiu open of point Sainte-Barbe, S. 


250 W. 


chouroubiague. Chouroubiague is an extremely dangerous place, although 
covered by 12J fathoms of water, and is greatly feared by 
the pilots. The tremendous sea often found on it is caused 
by the abrupt change of depth. When there is a high sea 
running, the breakers join those on the Grande Aroquiague 
and the Basse des Esclaves. The land-marks are Guethary, 
a little to the eastward of the top of mount La Rhune, and 
the top of mount Gambo, a little to the southward of the 
rocks of Biarritz. 

Loutrou. Loutrou, ou wliich there is a depth of 0 fathoms, breaks 

heavily with the sea from the west. Bearings of shoalest 
spot: Mount La Rhune open to the westward of Boucaleau 
rock of Biarritz, and the signal tower of the Adour R. 70^ 
E. There is ou Loutrou bank another rock, NW. cabl/is 
from the first, with fathoms on it. 


SAINT-JEAN DE LEZ BAY. 


189 


If, with a NW. wind, the sea break on Lontron and the inshore 

, of tile bank. 

Basse des Bs^laves, without there being anj^ disturbance on 
the other ledges, a vessel can hold a sate course inside the 
bank by keeping mount Batallera moderately open to the 
westward of point Sainte-Barbe, until abreast of Bidart. 

Then keep mount Jaisquivel just open of point Sainte- 
Anue, steering S. 60'^ W. until off Saint Jean de Luz, when 
follow directions for entering the bay. 

In case of a heavy sea a vessel may pass between Her- Herrecapass. 
reca and Illargnita, keeping mount La lihune over the 
clock tower of Siboure, S. 17^ E. When point Sainte-Aune 
shuts in the steeple of Fnenterrabia, look for landmarks on 
the starboard bow. 

Illargnita pass is between Illargnita and Belhara Perdun. niarguita pass. 
It is the one generally taken by the pilots going to Saint- 
Jean de Luz when the wind is in the W. or NW. and the 
sea heavy. Steer for Spcoa light, bearing S. 40^ E. 

The pass to the southward of Belhara-Perdnn may be 
taken with the wind from the westward or so nth westward, 
if the sea be smooth. The steeple of Saint-Jean de Lnz, 
visible through the cut between the fort of Socoa and the 
point, leads in clear to the southward of Belhara Perdnu. 

If this shoal give signs of breaking, bring the steeple be¬ 
hind the point and steer for Socoa light S. 72^^ E., until the 
two light-houses on Sainte-Barbe point come in line S. 

790 E. 

The bay of Saint-Jean de Luz was noted, not long since, 
as much for its miserable qualities as a port of refuge as 
for its natural beauty. The latter is indeed remarkable, but 
the tremendous sea that sometimes rolled in, destroyed all 
the piers that had been commenced. Early in the century, 
forty vessels were lost in the bay during a single gale, and 
a gunboat riding it out at anchpr under the lee of the 
Artha rock, capsized. Not only did mariners fear the 
place, but the inhabitants even of the town looked forward 
with dread to the time when the constant wearing of the 
beach would bring about the destruction of their homes. 

The construction, although not yet completed, of the break¬ 
water of Socoa and of that of Artha, has entirely allayed 
the latter apprehensions, and the fact of several large ships 
having ridden out gales of wind at anchor, in which, a few 


190 


NIVELLE RIVER—LIGHTS. 


years before, they would inevitably have gone to pieces, 
shows certainly that the nautical improvement is great. 
The bay is now the refuge of vessels that cannot enter the 
Adour, and the importance of tlie town will, in all proba¬ 
bility, increase with the advancement of the works. 

The bay is five-sixths mile wide in its broadest part, and 
one^half mile deep, measuring from the line of the break¬ 
water. It affords anchorage in 3 to 6 fathoms water. The 
stone jetty in course of construction at Socoa will extend 
from the fort, about 500 yards to the eastward, toward the 
Artha rock, leaving an entrance of about 280 yards’ width. 
It is twenty feet above the sea. On Artha another break¬ 
water is building which will extend from the western edge 
of the shoal across it, 300 yards to the eastward, toward 
point Sainte-Barbe. 

RiverNiveiie The river Nivelle falls into the head of the bay, between 
two quays 30 yards apart, and at its mouth on the right 
bank is the town of Saint-Jean de Luz, which is connected 
with its suburb, Siboure, on the left bank, by a bridge. 
The bar at the entrance dries 2 feet at springs, at which 
period there are not more than 3 feet of water between the 
quays. But even then a vessel can remain afloat in a hole 
below the bridge. When much of a sea rolls into the bay, 
it is difficult to cross the bar even at high water, as it is 
apt to break. 

Leadingiights. At the extremity of the jetty on the eastern bank of the 
river is an iron post, 14 feet high, from which is shown a 
fixed green catoptric light, 19 feet above sea level, and visible 
3 miles through an arc of 26^. S. 30^ B., 494 yards from 
this, is a similar light, 52 feet above the sea, and visible 7 
miles through an arc of 20^. The latter is shown from a 
stone tower in Siboure. The two in line lead into the 
bay. 

Sainte-Barbe point is the eastern extreme of the bay. It 
is a bluff of regular height, crowned by a battery, and on 
the rocks off the extremity is a landing. These rocks ex¬ 
tend 1 cable to the westward, and nearly 2 cables south 
from the point, and uncover at low water, making a close 
approach to this side of the entrance dangerous. 

Les Esquiiie- North of point Sainte-B irbe are two patches of 3 and 4 
fathoms, the nearest being 4J and the outer one 7 cables 


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3 


SAINTE-BARBE AND SOCOA LIGHTS. 


191 


from it. The depth immediately outside to the uorthwest- 
ward is 8 fathoms. Large vessels should never attempt to 
pass iushoreof them. In a heavy sea, the breakers join those 
ofthecoast. The summit of the outer spot brings the steeple 
of 8aint-Jean de Luz just shut in by Sainte-Barbe point, 
and the village of Guethary well open to the northward of 
point Chibo, bearing N. 78^ E. 

On point Sainte-Barbe are 2 fixed red lights, hearings. Lights: Lat. 43° 
790 E., and N. 79^ W. from each other, 41G yards apart. 40 'w! ’ 

The one on the end of the point is 95 feet above sea level. 

The other is 141 feet above the sea, and visible 8 miles. 

They are both visible over an arc of 13° on either side of 
the bearing, S. 79^ E., and when in line lead into the har¬ 
bor until the green harbor-lights are in line, which must 
then be kept so. 

The western point of the bay is also rocky. On it are Socoa. 
situated the town and fort of Socoa. Inside is a little tidal 
harbor, protected by piers. With a smooth sea and NW. 
wind it will admit vessels of 13J feet draught at springs, 
and lOJ at neaps. Unless the sea be very heavy, vessels 
can run in there for shelter that may not have been able to 
cross the bar of Bayonne. The state of the tide should be 
considered, as it is necessary to avoid being at the entrance 
before half-tide. The pilot boats can leave at quarter tide. 

If the wind be from the west at the time of entering, lines 
can be sent to the southwestern pier, to haul in by. There 
is a bell at the end of this pier, to facilitate finding it in 
foggy weather. 

On Socoa point is a square tower, 33 feet high, painted Light: Lat .430 
white, with a black vertical stripe on each outer face, from 1041 / 2 i"\v.”°"‘ 
which is shown, 115 feet above high wdtev, a fixed ichite 
light, with a red sector toward the harbor. It is a dioptric 
light, of the 4th order, visible 10 miles. 

A life-boat is stationed on the point. Life-boat. 

There is a semaphore signal station between the light- signal station, 
tower and the fort. The building is yellow, and the mast 
black. Geographical number B. G. E. L. A red flag indi¬ 
cates that a vessel in sight should.wait until at least half¬ 
tide before attempting to enter. When that red flag is 
hauled down, and a tri-colored displayed, the vessel should 
head in, observing the movements of the flag, and chang- 


192 


ARTHA ROCK—DIRECTIONS. 


ing course to whichever side it inclines, steadying the helm 
again as the flag is brought back to a perpendicular. As 
the vessel advances into the bay, a flag, also tri-colored, 
on the southern pier-head, will take the place of the one on 
the tower, and its mov^ements should be obej^ed in the same 
way. This flag will take vessels to the anchorage, and 
hauling it down is the signal to come-to. 

Pilot-signals. Asking for a pilot, and sending or refusing to send one, 
are done by the same signals as are used for the tug-boat 
off the A dour. 

Artbarock. Nearly midway between Sainte-Barbe point and Socoa, 
(a trifle nearer to the former,) is the Artha rock, on which 
the sea often breaks, there being but 21 feet on it at low 
water. The breakwater building there will extend from the 
western edge across it, to a safe depth to the eastward. 

BankofMabes- At a distance of one-half mile N. # E. from Socoa light 
is a shoal, called the bank of Mabessin, which has 4J fath- 
• oms on it. This breaks, of course, when the sea is rough. 

Directions. A vesscl’s positiou may be obtained, except in thick 
weather, by the two mountains, La Khune and La Batal- 
lera. The first bears SSE. 5| miles, and the second SW. f 
S. 8 miles from fort Socoa. 

Coming from the westward, if there be not much sea on, 
a vessel can come to the southward of Belhara-Perdun, 
keeping not less than half a mile from the coast of Socoa. 
Coming from the northward, in smooth weather, the harbor 
may be approached by bringing the clock-tower of Siboure 
to bear S. 30^ E., and steering for it until the square, cren¬ 
elated tower of the inner light of Siboure is made. Bring 
this on the same bearing, and keep it so. The smaller light 
on the east bank of the Ni\ elle will soon after be made in 
line with it. After passing the jetties’ of Socoa, port the 
helm handsomely, and bring an old ruined mill,* on an emi¬ 
nence on the right, in line with the Maison. Marie-Bernat^- 
nia, which is half-way up the hill. This range leads to the 
mooring-buoys. 

* As ao old ruined mill is apt to be torn down or blown away, it is 
best not to rely upon finding it. The buoys can generally be seen far 
enough to enable a vessel to steer for them immediately upon entering 
the bay. At all events, the signal-station at Socoa will give captains all 
necessary guidance during the day-time. 



DIRECTIONS. 


193 


In case there be a heavy sea raiining, a vessel should not in rough weath- 
steer S. 30° E. for the entrance, because of the banks of^^ 
lllarguita and Mabessiu, which break. Ilerreca pass or II- 
larguita pass may be taken. The latter is generally taken 
in heavy westerly weather. When the two light houses on 
Sainte-Barbe point are in line, steer for them until mount 
Esnaou is seen between two national ensigns in Saint-Jean 
de Luz, or the two lights of the Nivelle come in line, then 
head in. 

At night, with a heavy sea and westerly wind, pass to the At night, 
eastward of Belhara-Perdun, by keeping Socoa light S. Il^ 

E.; on this course bring the two lights on Sainte-Barbe 
point in one; keep this alignment until the two green lights 
in Saint-Jean deLuz and Siboure are in line, when steer for 
them until Socoa light shows red. Port the helm and stand 
in, about S. by W. J W., for the anchorage, where Socoa 
light again shows ichite. If the sea be smooth a vessel in 
the oiling may simply bring the green lights in one, and stand 
in. The larger of the lights being visible 7 miles, and the 
smaller only 3, the former will be made first; but by keep¬ 
ing that one on the bearing S. 30^ E., the other will soon 
be made in line with it. 

In case of a southerly wind, a sailing-vessel seeking SaiUng-vesseis. 
smoother water under the land should not come nearer than 
I mile from the breakers. With a west wind, small vessels 
pass to the eastward of Art ha, but they must be careful to 
give a good berth to the rocks extending from Sainte-Barbe 
point. 

It should be borne in mind that a breeze, fresh in the off- Cautiou. 
ing, frequently fails entirely on approaching the bay, in 
which case a vessel, unaided by steam, is apt to be drifted 
on Mabessiu. 

The usual anchorage is midway between fort Socoa and Anchorage, 
the mouth of the Nivelle, in 3 and 4 fathoms water. The 
bottom is rock, covered with sand and mud. The rocks are 
in ledges, inclined GO^ to the horizon, and running about 
EISE. and WSW., and would certainly cut through any 
other than chain , cables. In mooring, if the buoys be not 
taken, let go the starboard anchor first, to the northward, 
and sheer over to south westward to drop the port. 

13 N o 


104 


BIARRITZ POINT. 


Mooring-buoys. 


Tides. 


Currents. 


Town. 


Coast. 


Bidart. 


Biarritz iioint. 


Signal-station. 


Anchorages. 


There are two mooring-buoys in the anchorage, and they 
should always be used if possible. Coming in in bad 
weather, it is advisable to drop two anchors, send hawsers 
to one of the buoys, and then send a spring to a third buoy 
off the quarter, to keep the ship’s head to the NW. against 
the ebb-tide. 

In Saint-Jean de Luz bay it is high water, full and change, 
at 3^' 45'". Springs rise 12^ feet; neaps 8 feet. The flood, 
entering on both sides of Artha, often produces a rotary 
motion in the waters of the bay. During the ebb the cur¬ 
rent of the Nivelle is strong enough to make vessels swing 
against the wind, or at least to make them ride in the 
trough of the sea. 

The town of Saint Jean de Luz has never been one of 
importance, because of the impracticability of the bay. Its 
population is about 4,000 now, but after the completion of 
the breakwater it will probably increase with the trade. 
The latter is still small. A few vessels sail annually for 
Newfoundland and other fisheries. 

About 1 mile ENE. from Saiute-Barbe point the coast 
diminishes in height and runs to the northeastward. It is 
extremely indented, and, as far as Saint-Martin point, con¬ 
sists in general of low rocks, with here and there a short 
beach ; but the country inland is high. 

At a distance of 4 miles from point Sainte Barbe, the 
village of Biclart may be discerned on a gentle declivity, 
about 1,000 yards from a small stream. Here the decrease 
in height of the coast is quite noticeable. 

The coast then trends more to the northward, and 2| miles 
from Bidart is Biarritz point, which juts well out from the 
coast. On the point and in its vicinity are a number of 
buildings, principally hospitals and hotels, the resort of 
those that bathe on the beach of Biarritz, just north of the 
point. On the southern extremity of this beach is the palace 
built by the late Emperor. 

The building of the semaphore signal-station, which is on 
the top of the cliff, is painted white. The geographical num¬ 
ber is B. G. E. J. 

There are two anchorages oft* Biarritz point—the jport 
neiif, formed by jetties built out from the point on which is 
the semaphore, and the port des barques. To approach the 





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BIARRITZ LIGHT. 


195 


former, run in for the semaphore SSE., pass close to the 
end of the northern pier, and anchor inside. With the 
wind fresh from the westward the swell is such that vessels 
are obliged to put to sea. Steamers can land their passen¬ 
gers here at any stage of the tide, which is impossible at 
any other point between Saint-Jean de Luz and Arcachon. 

The ijort des barques^ situated to the eastward of thaport 
neuf, is under the lee of the Atalaya,* notwithstanding 
which the surf is sometimes so heavy that vessels have to 
be hauled up. The whole harbor dries at low water. There 
is a basin communicating with the harbor, and closed by a 
gate in stormy weather. In this basin most of the work 
for the jetties was done. 

Until a few years ago vessels used to anchor 1 mile otf 
shore, with the village bearing ESE., on a bed of sand ex¬ 
tending from Bidart to off the mouth of the Adour. The 
holding-ground there is good, but a wind from the west¬ 
ward soon raises a heavy sea. A French squadron anchored 
there in 1867, in 8 fathoms water, with mount Batallera 
open of point Saiute-Barbe one-third the interval between 
the latter and Socoa. 

Saint-Martin point, 1 mile NE. of Biarritz, is high and 
round. 

On it is a circular white tower, with enlarged base, 144 l^|4^29'38"n.- 
feet in height. Exhibited from it, 240 feet above the sea- 
level, and visible 22 miles, is a dioptric light of the 
first order, alternating red and ivhite every 20 seconds. This 
is known as the Biarritz light. 

There is a life-saving station on the point. ^^LUe-saving sta 

From Saint-Martin point the nature of the coast changes, 

It consists of beaches and low sand-hills, and runs 2J miles 
in a north-northeasterly direction, to the mouth of the Adour. 

The Adour river rises in the mountains of Tourmalet, in Adour river, 
the department of the Hautes Pyrenees, and flowing first 
to the northward, and then to the westward and southwest- 
ward, empties itself into the bay of Biscay, 200 miles from 
its source. On its banks are the towns of Dax, Saint- 
Lever, and Bayonne. The current is rapid, and serious 
inundations are caused by the melting of the snow on the 

* At«laya signifies any elevation from which a considerable view can 
be obtained. In this instance it is also a lookout station. 



19G 


ADOITR RIVER—LIGHTS. 


inountaiDS. Timber is brought down the stream from the 
Pyrenees, and tar, pitch, resin, cork, grain, and brandj^ 
from Armagnac. 

The river flowing into the sea against the direction of the 
prevalent winds caused the bar to shift and the depths to 
vary continually^, before the building of jetties inclosing 
the channel. They were originally constructed of wood, 
170 yards apart, and extended out to the range of La Rhune 
mountain and Biarritz steeple, about 500 yards outside low- 
water mark. But in 1875 they had been carried out. 92 
yards beyond that range, and built of iron piles, filled in 
with rock and concrete. The improvement has been evi¬ 
dent. Previous to this extension, after a protracted blow 
from the northw ard and westward, as small a depth as 3 
feet had been observed in the channel, whereas since then 
the least has been 6 feet, and there has been no shifting of 
the bar. 

At high-w’ater springs there are generally 18 feet, and at 
neaps 15. As much as 21 feet has been observed. 

The bar is passable, by sailing-vessels, only during the 
daytime, and during the flood-tide or beginning of the ebb. 
Even with plenty of water, a vessel is often i)revented 
crossing by the heavy sea caused by the ebb-tide. The sea 
is sometimes smooth in the offing wffien the bar is impas- 
sab’e. 

pffbt: Lat. 430 A fixed dioptric light of the fourth order is exhibited from 
i^o 3r 23 ^\va circular signal-tower near the end of the southern jetty. 

This light, 5G feet above the sea, and visible G miles, shows 
ivhite when the channel is practicable, and red when the re¬ 
verse is the case. 

Life-saving sta- Tliere is a Hfe-saviug statioii here. 

Leaaing-iights- There are two green leading-lights also, which, kept in 
line, lead through the channel between the jetties. These 
are only exhibited when the light at the entrance shows 
fchite. 

rides. It is high water, full and change, on the bar of the 

Adour, at 3^^ 45‘". Mean spring rise, 12 feet; neap, lOJ feet. 

I'idal currents. The ebb-stream, strengthened by the current of the river, 
occasionally attains a speed of 5 knots, abreast of the old 
signal-tower, at the inner end of the southern jetty. The 
flood rarely runs faster than 3 knots, and sometimes is re- 


DIRECTIONS. 


197 


tarded aud even prevented entering at all, when the river 
is swollen. The Annuaire des Marees gives for every day 
the hour and height of high water at Boncaut, (IJ miles 
from the mouth.) These heights differ but little from those 
at the bar or Bayonne. 

A vessel bound in for the Adour should keep to the 
northward of the entrance if the wind has been northerly 
or northeasterly for several days, and to the southward if 
it has been anywhere between SE. and WNW. It is to 
be borne in mind that in the latter case there will be a 
stronger current than usual to the northeastward, as the 
wind will have been assisting Renuell’s current, which runs 
in that direction. If there be a fresh breeze from the 
southward it is best for sailing-vessels to lie off aud on, 
keeping not far from the coast of Spain, and endeavor to 
keep in such position as would admit of reaching Port of 
Pasages, or at least Saint-Jean de Luz, in case the wind 
should haul to the SW. If the barometer be low, this be¬ 
comes a necessary act of prudence, because a south wind 
will shift to SW. and W., with a very heavy sea, and the 
entrance to the Adour becomes impracticable for several 
days. If the wind be in the westward, and the weather 
promise fair, stand to the northward two hours, and tack 
and stand to the southward for three hours, to counteract 
the effect of the current and keep in good position before 
the mouth of the river. 

Inshore of the general current to the northeastward, there caution, 
is i en found, with a NW. wind, a counter-current extend¬ 
ing generally about half a mile from the coast, and running 
to the southward. This is due to the change of waves of 
undulation to waves of motion, effected by the inclination 
of the former to the direction of tbe general line of the shore. 

After a long continuance of north-northwesterly winds, this 
counter-current will extend for some distance out, and weed, 

&c., from the basin of Arcachon, may be met on the bank 
of Saint-Jean de Luz. 

A vessel waiting to enter the river, can anchor outside ^Outer anchor- 
the bar in 12 to 15 fathoms water, sand aud mud, NW. 1 
mile from the entrance. • 

Outside this anchorage are some rocks, known as 
Eoches de la barre. They rarely break, being but little 


198 


SIGNALS. 


above the general bed. The southeastern limit of these 
rocks is in line with mount La Khune and Guethary. The 
anchorage can only be considered temporary, and a vessel 
should put to sea at the first indications of bad weather, 
unless certain of getting in soon. 

Signals. Vesscls are informed that the’bar is practicable by sig¬ 

nals made at the station.* When the chief pilot judges 
that the bar will be practicable at high water, he will show 
the national flag from the signal-staff, indicating with black 
balls the greatest draught of water he thinks will be admis¬ 
sible at high water. Vessels whose draught does not ex¬ 
ceed that indicated may then approach, but not nearer 
than 1 mile. If the entrance should not be tried, no flag 
will be hoisted, and if a vessel were to approach, warning- 
signal No. G would be made from the tower. 

From the tower are made two classes of signals—those 
for draught, and those for piloting. The former, made with 
disks, indicate what draught can be carried over the bar 
at the moment the signal is made. Vessels drawing more 
should keep off until higher water. 

Vessels that can enter should maintain such distance 
apart as will prevent two being in the breakers at the same 
time. The first comer will obey the following signals :t 



No. 1. Vessel is seen. Xo. 3. Go to starboard. Xo. 4. Go to port. 

Pilot will guide it. (Port helm.) (Starboard helm.) 


*A captain in Saint-Jean de Luz can ascertain from Bayonne by 
means of the semaphore telegraph, if he should leave the anchorage 
and try the entrance to the Adour. 

t The following numbering is kept, being the same as that in the in¬ 
structions in the possession of many captains, so as to avoid all possi¬ 
bility of error. 









SIGNALS. 


199 


Tue arm raised to a vertical position after No. 5, indicates 
that the next vessel will be guided. 

In case two or more vessels should be outside the bar at 
the same time, one coming from the northward and one 
from the southward, if signals to one might put the other 
in danger, none will be made. Ships will then haul their 
wind, and the arm will be raised as soon as there is no 
longer any danger of confusion. 



No. 5. Danger is passotl. No. 6. There is not enough No. 7. Warning a vessel 
water. Stand oif. that she will be put ashore. 

If at any time it should be deemed expedient for a vessel 
to stand oif, from any cause whatever, No. 6 will be made, 
lashing a ball to the smaller end of the arm. 

If the only chance of saving a ship’s company be to run 
the vessel ashore, a red flag will be lashed to the smaller 
end of the arm, and will be worked to guide a vessel to the 
best place for beaching. If the captain consent to lose the 
ship, being forewarned, he can make preparations for sav¬ 
ing life. 

If, after signaling for vessels to approach, the chief pilot 
think best for vessels of 50 tons or less to stand off, a black 
cross will be shown against the seaward face of the tower, 
the signals for approaching being kept flying. 

If no vessel should attempt to enter, the signals will be 
hauled down, and a red flag displayed from the flag-staff on 
the tower, the arm remaining in position No. G. Vessels 
should then either put to sea or try to make some port to 
the southward. 

There is a tug at Boucaut, and captains wishing to em- 
ploy it will show their national flag at the main. To prevent 
any confusion that might otherwise arise, a vessel asking to 
be towed will haul down the flag as soon as answered, and 








200 


DIRECTIONS. 


Leaving in day¬ 
time. 


Entering a 
night. 


Leaving a t 
night. 


Caution. 


Caution. 


Eiver. 


hoist it again immediately, keeping it flying until the tug 
gets alongside. 

If the tug can go out, a white flag with blue trefoils will 
be hoisted at the yard-arm of the signal-staff. This flag is 
also an order to the tug-boat to get up steam. If the tug 
cannot go out, two white flags with blue trefoils will be 
shown. Three such flags, hoisted one above the other at 
the yard-arm of the signal-staff, indicates to vessels outside 
that they must take a tug, without which they cannot enter. 
Acceptance is indicated by the national flag at the main. 
When the vessels have answered in that way the three flags 
will be hauled down, and one hoisted as an order to the tug. 

A flag with red and white squares disinayed from one of 
the inshore angles of the tower, indicates that steamers and 
sailing-vessels, towed if necessaiy, can go out. A flag with 
blue trefoils indicates that steamers alone can do so. These 
signals are repeated at Boucaut and Bayonne. 

1 It is forbidden for sailing-vessels to enter at night unless 
towed by the harbor-tug. Steamers can sometimes enter, 
in which case the light on the end of the southern jetty 
shows white, and the two green leading lights will be exhib¬ 
ited. There are no means of signaling the depth on the 
bar at night, so that a prudent captain will not often risk 
the attempt. 

The same range lights that take a vessel in will take her 
out. Captains should always consult beforehand with the 
chief pilot. 

Vessels should not skirt the coast too closely when ap¬ 
proaching the entrance. When off the mouth, with mount 
La Rhune open to the westward of Biarritz light, it will be 
safe to head in. 

If the stream be swollen so as to prevent the flood-tide 
entering, it is best not to attempt to pass the bar, as the cur¬ 
rent of the river would make it much more difficult. How¬ 
ever, if there be a fresh breeze, and if warning-signals do 
not forbid, it may be tried j but as much sail as possible 
should be carried. 

With the wind aft, the head sails should be up, with the 
sheets flat aft, in case the vessel should broach-to. 

After vessels have passed the tower, there are pilots to 
take them up to the anchorage at Boucaut or Bayonne. 


TOWN OF BAYONNE. 


201 


The uavigation of the river is not difficult; hug the north¬ 
ern bank from the tower to abreast Le Lazaret, which is on 
the southern bank. Then cross the river very diagonally, 
just avoiding the Oasquets reef, the two up-stream heads of 
which are indicated by beacons painted black at the top 
and ichite below. The southern bank should then be fol¬ 
lowed to Bayonne. 

The anchorages are: Anchorages. 

1. Between the Casquets and the up stream end of the 
mole of Blanc-Pignon. xYbout 100 yards from the mole is 
a depth of fathoms. 

2 . Abreast of Boucaut, 100 yards east of the easternmost 
beacon on the Casquets, in 2 fathoms water, mud bottom. 

3. 200 yards SE. of the Oasquets, in 4 fathoms water. 

4. All along the promenade of Bayonne, in 3 to 5 fath¬ 
oms water. 

Bayonne is a flourishing town of some 2G,000 inhabit- Town of sa- 

yonne. 

ants, in the department of the Basses Pyrenees. It stands 
on the left bank of the Adour, which is here about 250 
yards wide, 3J miles from its mouth, at the confluence of 
that river with the Nive. The latter divides the town into 
two nearly equal parts. That to the eastward is called 
Great Bayonne, or simply Bayonne, and the other. Little 
Bayonne, the two being connected b}^ iron and stone bridges. 

The suburb of Saint-Esprit, on the opposite side of the 
Adour, and inhabited mainly by Jews, the descendants of 
fugitives from Spain, does not belong to the commune, but 
forms a separate commune in the department of Landes. 

Bayonne is strongly fortified, and has handsome quays 
and promenades, a cathedral of the twelfth century, a 
mint, a theatre, a seminary, schools of commerce, chamber 
and tribunal of commerce, distilleries, sugar-refineries, and 
glass-works. In Saint-Esprit are the arsenal, one of the 
finest in France; the citadel, built by Yauban in the seven¬ 
teenth century, whose batteries command both towns, the 
river, and the plain; and the military hospital, in which 
2,000 invalids may be accommodated. 

Bayonne has naval and commercial docks, one of which Docks, 
is 213 feet long, and 32 feet broad at the entrance, with 1 
foot of water on the sill at low-water springs. It will take 
the largest vessel that can enter the river. 


202 


TRADE—PORT CHARGES. 


Trade. 


Supplies. 
Port charges. 


lu 1870 about 430 vessels sailed from this port. Siuce 
that time, however, the trade has been increasing, not¬ 
withstanding the blow given to the coasting trade by the 
opening of railways. A line of French steamers, of 500 and 
600 tons burden, run regularly to Antwerp, carrying large 
quantities of resin and turpentine, which, with wood and 
castdron, are the principal exports. The latter article 
has only been a staple recently, a company having been 
formed to work an ore mine of very valuable quality near 
Saint-Jean Pied de Port. When the harvest is good there 
is also a brisk exportation of grain. The principal import 
is coal, 30,000 tons being shipped here annually from Eng¬ 
land alone. 

Ship-building is carried on. 

Coal, water, and provisions are plentiful. 

Port charges, on a vessel of 95 tons, loaded in and out, 
as given by M. Duverdier, ship-broker, Bajmnne, in 1872 : 


Fr. Centimes. 

To the hoard of health and quarantine expenses, 10 cent¬ 
imes per register ton. 9 50 

To the x>ilotage from sea, (as per agreement made by the 

master). 0 0 

To the pilotage over the bar and up to Bayonne. 32 50 

To the steamboat’s expenses for bringing the vessel in, 5 

per cent, for towing, and 50 centimes per ton. 45 70 

To the clearance inward, at the rate of 50 centimes per 

registered ton. 47 50 

To the report at the customs office, (when loaded). 10 00 

To the steamboat’s fixed dues’^ as per bids, 30 centimes 

inward and 30 centimes outward. 57 00 

To the signal dues in and out to the head pilot of the bar. 12 00 

To the brokerage for reporting vessel out and attending 

to ship’s business. 47 50 

To the pilotage down to Boucaut. b 00 

To the stamps and small expenses. 5 00 

To the chartering commission on the outward cargo from 
Bayonne, 5 per cent. 0 . 00 


Shipmasters and owners generally insert the following 
clause in their charters: “ The two-thirds of the steam¬ 
boat’s fixed dues and towage are to be re-imbursed by the 
cargo.” 


* If coming in or going out in ballast, the rate is to be less for the 
fixed dues; say, 5 centimes if coming in in ballast, and 30 centimes 
with cargo. 
















COAST—SOUNDINGS. 


2oa 


The coast from the mouth of the Adoiir runs N. by E. coast. 

G2 miles to point Arcachon. It is straight, sandy, low, and 
flat with exception of a few sand-hills covered with jiines. 

These sand-hills, for a distance of 20 miles northward from 
Bayonne, are from 120 to 170 feet in height, and extend 
about half a mile inland. Their form is continually chang¬ 
ing, as is also that of the shore to a certain extent. The 
latter recedes about 3 feet annually. 

The land and sea breezes blow in a direction nearly nor- Land and sea 
mal to the coast. In winter, with the thermometer at the 
freezing point, the former come from SE., south of Arca¬ 
chon, and, north of that, from ENE. 

It is between Contis light and Arcachon that vessels 
bound to the southward first begin to feel the influence of 
the Pyrenees. Leaving the Gironde with clear weather, 
and a light northerly or northwesterly breeze, on approach¬ 
ing the coast of Spain calms will be found or light airs from 
the southward. In winter, unless the barometer be very 
high, these southerly airs will be met as far north as the 
Bassin d^Arcachon. 

The soundings between Bayonne and Arcachon are very soundings, 
regular for some distance to seaward, the bottom being 
sand, gravel, and shells. At miles from shore is a depth 
of 30 fathoms; at 1 mile, 10 fathoms; at one-half mile, 5 
fathoms, within which line are occasional patches of 3 to 6 
feet at low water. 

But 8 miles north of the entrance to the Adour, abreast Fosse de cap 
of Cap Breton, there is a singular break in the standings, 
called the Fosse de Cap Breton, with deep water over mud 
bottom, from seaward almost up to the beach. Its general 
direction is about W. by N., and E. by S., being indicated 
by a semaphore and a beacon on the sand-hills, bearing, 
when in line, S. 79^ 45' E. At 6 miles from shore it is 
about l| miles wide, and 174 fathoms deep ; at 2f miles, it 
is three-fourths mile wide and 205 fathoms deep j at one- 
quarter mile, one-half mile wide, and 17 fathoms deep; and 
is 8 fathoms deep at less than 2 cables from the beach. 

Over this submarine valley, when the sea is heavy and 
coming from the westward, the waves are like those of mid¬ 
ocean, long with moderate height, while on the borders 
their transformation is perfect to a short, chopping sea that 


204 


FOSSE DE CAP BRETON. 


Ancliorage. 


lias proved fatal to many a good ship. With the sea from 
the northwestward, it is the southern edge of the gulf that 
breaks the worst; with a westerly swell, and wind from 
SW., it is the northern edge that is the more dangerous. 
Of course, notwithstanding the comparative smoothness of 
the water there is no anchorage save close inshore, for the 
very reason of the great depth that causes that smoothness. 
However, ships and even coasters have been known to ride 
out heavy gales of wind at single anchor, about three-fourths 
mile from shore, when the sea everywhere else was tre¬ 
mendous. 

Although the improvements at the mouth of the bay of 
Saint-Jean de Luz have given mariners another shelter 
during bad weather, it maj^ often happen that a vessel 
caught to the northward of the Adour may only have the 
alternative of putting to sea or finding an anchorage.* If 
the latter be preferred, make as much of an offing as pos¬ 
sible, (less than 5 miles would be dangerous,) and bring the 
semaphore and large beacon N. of Cap Breton in one, and 
steer for them S. 79° E. If thickness of weather should 
hide these landmarks, the only course left will be to come 
in parallel to the breakers on the edge of the fosse^ N. or S. 
of them, according to the direction of wind and sea as de¬ 
scribed above. A cast of the lead, if practicable, would 
show if a vessel were on the approximate bearing, the change 
in depth being very abrupt. When the beacon S. of the 
entrance is still moderately open to the northeas ward of 
the clock-tower of Cap Breton, bearing S. 43° E., the depth 
being 43 fathoms, the ship may then anchor, and will be 
some distance from the breakers, even after paying out all 
the cable on board. The holding-ground being excellent, 
it might be deemed advisable to put two cables on one an- 


* M. Beautemps Beauprd said: ‘‘ We tliink that iu bad weather there 
would be less danger, as a rule, in remaining at anchor on the mud and 
sand bank off the mouth of the Adour than in skirting the coast to 
reach the deeps of Cap Breton, or trying to make an offing against a head 
wind.’’ Although this eminent surveyor was called the father of hydrog¬ 
raphy by the English, it must be borne in mind that his remarks were 
made early in the century, since which time changes in naval architecture 
have caused many changes in ideas concerning safety of ships. More¬ 
over, the peculiar qualities of different ships may hav^e great weight 
in deciding a captain as to what course to pursue. 



CAP BRETON CHANNEL—LIGHT. 


205 


cbor, so as to benefit by the well-known advantages of a 
long scope. In the event of the cable parting there would 
be time to make some sail forward and get before the sea 
before being caught in the rollers. The best place to go 
ashore would be about half a mile S. of the light. 

The anchor may possibly drag for some moments before 
holding. This usually happens here after a squall, and is 
explained by the fact that from the beach quantities of 
sand are sent down into this valley by the action of the 
waves, sometimes covering the mud bottom to a depth of 3 
feet, and that in the calmness of the depth below a light 
coating of soft mud will fall on this temporary bottom. 

This is demonstrated in the cup of the deep-sea lead. 

It often happens, especially in the autumn, that the land¬ 
marks are hidden by mists rising from the pond of Ossegore. 

These mists are generally dissipated by the middle of the 
day, and always disappear when the wind hauls to the west¬ 
ward. 

The channel of Cap Breton is the outlet of the streams channel of Cap 
of Boudigau and Bouret; its direction is preserved bya^'^^^^^^* 
timber jetty at its mouth on the S. side. Work has been 
commenced cutting a communication between the pond of 
Ossegore and the sea. This, by augmenting the tidal sur¬ 
face, will both widen and deepen the channel. As at the 
mouth of the Adour, the current, running out against wind 
and sea, mukes an outer shifting bar. To mitigate this evil 
it has been proposed to build a jetty on the N. side also. 

The depth of the channel is such that a ship in the offing uepth. 
can send her boats in two hours before almost every high 
water, and at springs coasters drawing 9 feet can enter. 

It is fair to presume that the completiou of the work begun 
will make the channel navigable for larger craft. 

Having the increased importance of Cap Breton in 
pectii^ a fixed red light has been established, 93 yards from 26 '55" w. 
the extremity of the jetty. It is exhibited from a white 
scaffolding, 20 feet high, and is 2G feet above sea-level, 
visible 5 miles. The anchorage bears N. 64® W. from it. 

Cap Breton maintains a life-boat. Life-boat. 

There is a semaphore on the Vigies downs. The building Signal-station, 
is white, mast black, arms white. 


20G CONTIS LIGHT—BASSIN D’ARCACHON. 

Streams. There are several small streams emptying into the sea 

between Cap Breton and Arcaclion point. They are of no 
importance now, being simply the outlets of ponds in the 
interior, but jetties have been built to keep each channel in 
one permanent direction, and it is hoped that some day 
they will serve as ports of refuge for coasters. The prin¬ 
cipal ones are those of Vieux Boucaut, Huchette, Contis, 
and Mimisan. 

Beacon of Hu- At a distance of 14J miles from the light of Cap Bre- 
54 'N.' ’ ton, to the northward, is the beacon of Huchette, just north 

of the entrance to the stream of that name. On the face 
of this beacon are two triangles, the one at the top 
painted black and the lower one icliite. The entire height 
above the sea is 75J feet. 

Contis light: On the downs, at Contis, about midway between Cap 
long. 1 ° 19'15' w. Breton and the Bassin d’Arcachon, is a round ivliite tower, 
125 feet high, which exhibits, at 164 feet above high water, 
a revolving ivhite light, attaining its greatest brilliancy 
every half minute^ and visible 24 miles. The eclipses are 
not total within a radius of 10 miles. It is a first-order di¬ 
optric light. 

Beacon of Bis- To the northwai'd, 154 miles from Contis light, is the 

carosse: Lat. 44° r. i-.- ^ ^ i . 

20 'X. beacon of Biscarosse, 62 feet high, with a circle, painted 

blacky at the top, on a sand-down about 30 feet high. 

Bassin d’Arca- The Bassiu d’Arcachou is verv extensive, bordered by 

chon. 

beautiful smooth sands, and encircled and sheltered by 
sand-downs covered with fir-trees. There are several spots 
where a ship can conveniently be hove down. The river 
Leyre falls into the SE. angle. The fishing is good outside, 
and furnishes employment to the greater part of the inhab¬ 
itants of the many little settlements on the shore. Small 
craft ply their trade on and near the bar, while steamers 
drag the seine outside. The largest village. Teste de Buch, 
is on the southern shore, and has a population of more 
than 5,000. It increases yearly in importance, being admir¬ 
ably adapted for sea-bathing, and connected by railway with 
Bordeaux. Many foreigners go there to pass the winter. 

Commerce. The maritime development has not kept pace with the 
increase of commerce. A few schooners and other small 
craft go there for resin and pitch, which the neighboring 


Bieccu'o^mt becLCon. 



Entrance to the bassin d' Areachon., 








































































































} 

■ 1 
J 


/- 


V'i> I ■’ 5i||ti*ft jlEiru: i.r*'iWA j«> r?wi» 

Jv* - aiul Aroaclion point, Itioy »?<♦ ^ 

nov, i>ein)5: dimply the dnUet® of ut ^ *' 

: M.ii iellM. I Uavii^ l>€em hnilt to ke^p Mcb cbAtfB4iMli .'•v 


iMvnuvtoufc 4lrei:ttoa, md that 

s^»u^'ca.s porta of pefufre for foasters, 
e»f;!i ojh/«» are thoae of VkiUi Uoticaoi* tfuf hrt 
aa«l MimisMu. . 

Atadistanro of 14| tnilea froni^ 
ton, to tho north ward, ia tlio bf'acon of Hu 
of the entrance to the atream of rhat irtu 
of thia. beacon are two triai)gl»«, the 


vlae 


pointed hMcJc and 
above tlu^ aea ia 7 
Oq flv? downs, 
Breton «Tid th^' 
f' i wbi 

4 i^k.t 

^ mihi 

-T ^ ’iif 

If -Ov. -» 

V • I 

t ' .*• ^ 

5% -.. •♦ a»w ^ 

ritr ■,-,4 '.. 




411 

- :!' 



ono irkite. 


afloat midway -n 


i *hon, ia a round 
. at, ftMstabov 
ainin]? its groa 
!|le nulea. T 
H* wP.*H. It hi 

i 



Ti4iw.*u»e- «h 4-44'«A. 
:i\v !k» ho*"^' thnair 

VT :! . r jgi4» 1 )n' ^ukI mjfsiMlet,* 

jvd fuv ;>otv; ro jiart .7: 'nhal>> y 

.s-^f'wvf fh#* ruiuiy Utt>on tbe f^t&aU 

\Uy'hv^t tri.'t/. fr, iiijd fh<* bar, 

, n V-H4* JIM ontMh)*^. T , . St vUlage,7V%ted r.iaflhl 


Mi tllie .-wrnlli'M J? Ktifu 
^ *‘f'L 


t- u 


‘-i'< a popvdn 

I ;'r >o» l«r»rr' 


111^5 i»«U|5ledlt;r . und .*^i«ii*C5etod b'; 


ISortk^-fiiK i|.*ny there to j 

X?n rnu' jii* < ha?* kepf p 

^ jr ,,4r*4.*> . a et.flooptus, and 

•laft go there uj’ -. pif<sb|.%lueh t‘>e 









ENTRANCE—CAPE FERRET LIGHT. 


207 


districts furnisli ia abundance, but the greater part of the 
products go to Bordeaux by rail. 

The navigation of the entrance to this basin is difficult, it 
running through flats of sand so fine that the action of the 
wind alone is sufficient to change it. The same phenome¬ 
non is observable here as at the mouths of all streams on 
the coast of the department of Landes, viz, a change in the 
direction of the channel, brought about by the action of 
waves striking the coast obliquel 3 \ Under that influence 
the entrance is moved gradually to the southward, until the 
current loses somewhat of its strength. A gale will then 
bank up the sand and close it, and the stream will open a 
way for itself to the northward again, in the prolongation 
of its inner course. The shifting then recommences, slow 
and gradual to the southward, and sudden to the northward, 
and this will continue until the channel is confined between 
jetties, as in the Adour. 

The least water on the bar at low-water springs is 13 feet, 
inside which the depth increases materially. The sea often 
breaks on the bar, rendering crossing occasionally impossi¬ 
ble. The fishermen sometimes prefer to keep at sea for days 
in rough weather, rather than risk crossing, and are fre¬ 
quently obliged to run for the Gironde. 

In the basin at Arcachon it is high wate?’, full and change, 
at 4^ 37“. Springs rise llj, neaps 9J feet. The tide is 
three-fourths of an hour earlier on the bar, and one fourth 
of an hour later at Ards and Teste. 

The slack-water flood lasts about an hour, and slack-water 
ebb about half an hour. 

The tidal current, of both flood and ebb, oft‘ the bend of 
Moullo, is stronger than at the bar, and runs sometimes 4J 
miles an hour. The flood sets by Moullo, and the ebb by 
cape Ferret, and there is consequently at Arcachon a net¬ 
work of currents, the origin and cause of the banks and 
shoals found there. 

On cape Ferret, the northern shore of the entrance to the 
basin, is a fixed ichite light, exhibited 167 feet above sea- 
level, from the top of a circular white tower 156 feet high. 
It is a dioptric light of the first order, visible 18 miles. The 
tower has an enlarged base. 


Entrance. 


Bar. 


Tides. 


Currents. 


Light: Lat.44o 
38' 43" N.; long 
10 15' 06" W. 


208 


DIRECTIONS. 


Appro a chin 
from seaward. 


Signal-station. 


Caution. 


Directions. 


= When approaching from seaward, the position of the ba- 
sill will be recognized by the light-tower on the north side 
of the entrance, where the land is low and destitute of trees; 
while on Arcachon point, the southern side, the sand-downs 
are higher and covered with trees. On the latter is a sema¬ 
phore, the building being painted yellow. The steeple of 
Kotre Dame d’Arcachon is also visible beyond the light- 
tower on cape Ferret. 

It is impossible to enter at night, save by steamers in the 
very smoothest and clearest of weather. Sailing-vessels 
should never attempt it, even in day-time, during the ebb¬ 
tide, especially if there be any sea on ; because in one place 
the channel breaks clear across during that tide, and also 
because of the strength of the current, which, in case of the 
wind failing, might give the vessel a sheer and bring her 
broadside on to tiie sea. 

The end of the flood would be the best time to enter, were 
the passage of the bar the only point to be considered; but 
as the anchorage off Arcachon is 9 miles beyond, it is best 
to cross at half-flood, (unless the vessel’s draught be too 
great,) so as to have the current favorable. 

The only entrance in 1872 was the pass of Flamberge. 
To find that, steer east for the Truque de Pelouse, (a wooded 
and somewhat precipitous eminence to the southward of 
Arcachon,) until cape Ferret light is open 1 point to the west¬ 
ward of the church of isotre Dame d’Arcachon, or of point 
Bernet; on this bearing is the fairway buoy, red and black, 
sphero-conical in shape, with a ball at top. This buoy may 
be passed either to starboard or port. East from it is the 
bar buoy, red, with a conical cap at top. Pass this to star¬ 
board and steer N. 72'^ E. for a third conical buoy indicat¬ 
ing a change of direction. Pass this to port, pretty close. 
The channel then runs to the southward and eastward, and 
is marked by a series of black buoys on the edges of Tou- 
linguet and Arguin banks, numbered 1, 3, 5, 7, 9. Pass 
them all to port while rounding the banks. When abreast 
of the northeastern buoy on the bank of Arguin (black 
buoy No. 9) steer N. 22° W. for the fishermen’s huts on cape 
Ferret, leaving red buoy No. 2, of Bernet, to starboard ; 
there is anchorage two cables outside the islet on which 
these huts are situated. 






DIRECTIONS—COAST. 


209 


There is no difficulty after passing the first turning-buoy. 
The Banc du Sud affords a partial lee, and even if the sea 
be felt inside, the breakers do not reach the middle of the 
channel, which is deep. 

If there be much sea on, it will be necessary sometimes 
to conn the ship by the breakers on each side, as the buoys 
are placed on the bare edge of the banks, and are often hid¬ 
den in the foam. 

With a SW. wind give the black buoys of Toulinguet a 
tolerably wide berth, as the surface-current runs to the east¬ 
ward. Farther up-stream the shore may be approached 
closer, as it is steep-to; but the depths in that part of the 
channel are too great and the current too strong to anchor. 
Xear cape Ferret, however, the depths are moderate, and 
the water smooth, and a vessel would be out of the strength 
of the fiood-tide which sets along the shore of Moullo. 

To keep on up to abreast of Arcachon or to the old wharf 
of Eyrac, pass the black buoy of Muscla du Sud, and then 
the red one of Bernet, and anchor 2 cables from the town. 
If bound still farther up, to the channel of Teichan, 
bring Ferret light behind Bernet point, to avoid the shoal 
of Mapouchete, which extends to the southward to within 
500 yards of the red buoy of Arcachon. 

In case of being driven on shore, a vessel should avoid if 
possible the shoals called the Mail du Sud and Mail du 
Nord. The sea on them is very heavy. The best place 
w’ould be just south of the semaphore, or else 1 mile to the 
northward of cape Ferret light. At the latter place all 
possible aid would be rendered from shore, including that 
of a life-boat. It would be advisable not to attempt to 
leave the ship in boats before low water. 

The coast from cape Ferret runs about N. J E. 52 miles, to 
Pointe de la i^egade, where it trends off to NE. by K, and 
runs GJ miles to Pointe de la Grave, the southern point of 
entrance to the Gironde. It consists throughout of low 
sand-downs, with occasional clusters of trees. The country 
for some distance into the interior is of much the same 
character, sandy and rolling. The undulations on the gen¬ 
eral surface, originally made by the winds, are parallel to 
the beach. xA short distance inland, and running parallel 
to the shore, are two lakes or ponds, called the Etang de 
14 N c 


Caution. 


Caution. 


Directions. 


Coast. 


210 


IIOURTIN LIGHTS. 


Carcans and the Etaug de la Canau. The former, which is 
the northernmost one, is about midway between cape Ferret 
and Pointe de la Negade. 

Eiver Ancbise. Abreast of the Etang de Carcans a small stream, known 
as the river Ancliise, empties into the sea. It is of no im¬ 
portance, the smallest coasters having difficulty in entering. 
Off the bar in the 1:1 VY. entrance is a bell-baoy. 

Souudiiigs. coast of this department, called the Gironde, the 

depths are very regular, with sand and occasional mud bot¬ 
tom. With an approximate latitude, a few casts of the 
lead will fix a vessel’s longitude quite closely. If sights be 
not obtainable, the latitude can onl^’ be found by a view of 

Landmarks, coast. lu the total absence of all natural landmarks to 
aid the mariner in these circumstances, beacons and light- 
towers have been erected at nearly equal distances all along 
the coast. 

Beacon of La On a sand-down 15 miles to the northward of c ipe Fer- 

Grigne: Lat. 44° '■ 

53' 17" N. ret light is the beacon of La Grigne. It is a Uack pyramid 
with a lozenge-shaped top. 

La^tT 5 °^ 8 “ 20 "^x • About loj milcs from La Grigne beacon are two lights, 

long 1° 9'53" w. called the Hourtin lights, from the downs on which they 
are situated. They are both fixed ichite, dioptric lights of 
the first order, 177 feet abov^e sea level, and visible 20 miles. 
The brick towers from which thej' are exhibited are 219 
yards apart, bearing from each other X. 6° 18' E., and S. 
fio 18' W. They are 77 feet in height, situated about 1 mile 
inland, and form a perfect landmark, there being no other 
instance on the whole west coast of France of two lights 
in such close proximity. 

The heights of most of the beacons being known,, a cap¬ 
tain can calculate his distance from shore by their angles of 
elevation above the horizon, and verify it by sounding. , But 
these two lights of Hourtin simplify matters considerably, 
as their distance apart is known, and as they can be used 
by night as well as by day. The table, page 2U, gives the 
distances in miles, corresponding to the angular distances 
between the two towers on four different bearings. It 
begins with the angle corresponding to 2 miles, because 
the towers are over a mile from low-water mark. 



TABLE OF DISTANCES—BEACONS. 


211 


Table of distances from Ilourtin lights corresponding to their angles of opening. 


Angles between to^yer8, 


North tower 
j bearing S. 

, 10= 42' E., 
or south 
‘ tower bear- 
' ing N. 28^ 
j 48' E. 

North tower 
bearing S. I 
33^ 4-2' E.. 1 
or south' 
tower bear- | 
ing N. 5P 1 
18' E. 

North tower 
bearing 8. 
610 1.2' E., 
or south 
tower bear¬ 
ing N. 73° 
48' E. 

North tower 
bearing S. 
83^ 42' E. 

iJ 

* a 

® a 

o 

a 

C3 

SO 

1 o 

/ 

„ 

o 

. , 

1 

o 


„ 

0 

, 



1 1 

11 

00 

•2 

12 

46 1 

>2 

51 

21 

3 

05 

26 

2 

1 0 

47 

21 

1 

28 

30 

1 

54 

17 

2 

03 

42 

3 

! 0 

35 

31 

1 

06 

24 

1 

25 

44 

1 

32 

48 

4 

0 

•28 

25 

0 

53 

06 

1 

08 

35 

1 

14 

15 

5 

1 0 

23 

41 

0 

44 

15 

0 

57 

10 

1 

01 

52 

6 


20 

18 

0 

37 

56 , 

0 

40 

00 

0 

55 

02 1 

7 

' 0 

17 

46 

0 

33 

11 

0 

42 

52 

0 

46 

25 

8 

0 

15 

47 

0 

29 

30 

0 

38 

06 

0 

41 

15 

9 

0 

14 

1.3 

0 

26 

33 

0 

34 

18 

0 

37 

07 

10 

0 

12 

55 

0 

24 

08 

0 

31 

11 

0 

33 

45 

11 

0 

11 

50 

0 

22 

08 

0 

28 

35 

0 

30 

56 1 

12 

0 

10 

56 

0 

20 

25 

0 

2(5 

23 

0 

28 

33 1 

13 

0 

10 

00 

0 

18 

56 

0 

24 

30 

0 

26 

31 ! 

14 

0 

00 

29 

0 

17 

42 

0 

22 

52 

0- 

24 

45 j 

15 

0 

08 

53 

0 

16 

36 i 

0 

21 

26 

0 

25 

12 

16 

0 

08 

21 

0 

15 

37 i 

0 

20 

13 

0 

21 

50 j 

17 

0 

07 

53 

0 

14 

45 ; 

0 

19 

06 

0 

20 

37 

18 

0 

07 

20 

0 

13 

50 

0 

18 

03 

0 

10 

33 1 

19 

0 

07 

06 

0 

13 

16 

0 

17 

09 

0 

18 

34 ' 

20 


The beacon of Vendays, about Hi miles to the northward , ueacon of ven- 
of Hourtin lights, is hlaclc., and presents the appearance of a^- 
battlement supported on a truncated cone, the top being 
rectangular, with an opening like an embrasure in the upper 
part. It is 65i feet in heiglit from the ground, with a total 
elevation above the sea of 98i feet. A vessel 10 miles off 
shore abreast of this beacon has Cordouan light to the north¬ 
ward, and the Hourtin lights to the southward, in sight 
at the same time. 

The beacon of Soulac stands 2i miles to the north-north-, Beacons of sou- 

, „ ^ , -.-r ^ . lac and St. Nico- 

eastward of Poiute de la ^egade, and miles farther are the las. 
beacon and the semaphore of Saiut-Nicolas, 2 miles to the 
southward and westward of Poiute de la Grave. 

















liiver Giroiido. 


River Dordogne. 


River Garonne. 


Cli AFTER VIII. 

(ilEOXDE RIVER TO LES BARGE.? D’OLO.N’NE. 

Variation in 1373.—Cordouan 18^35' VV.; Chassiron liglit, 18^ 

45' W.; Sables d’Olonno, 13° 55' \V. 

The Gironde riv^er is foi nied by the union of the Garonne 
and Dordogne, and has a length of 39 miles from the con¬ 
fluence of these two streams to point de la Grave, the south¬ 
ern side of entrance. The estuary between the last named 
point and La Coubre point is 10| miles wide, but the width 
of the mouth of the river proper, i. e.^ from Grave point to 
Valliere point, is only 2| miles, increasing from that to 4 
miles near Eichard, and decreasing again gradually to the 
conflux of its component streams. 

The Dordogne is formed by the union of two mountain- 
streams, the Dor and the Dogne, which rise in Mont d’Or, 
Puy-de-Dome, and unite after a short course. It flows west¬ 
ward through the departments of Gorreze, Lot, Dordogne, 
and Gironde, and, after a course of 259 miles, (for 180 of 
which it is navigable,) joins the Garonne. Its principal 
affluents are the Vesere and the Isle. 

The Garonne derives its name from its two head streams, 
the Gar, which rises in the Spanish valley of Aran, and the 
Onne, which descends from the glaciers of A6 in the Pyre¬ 
nees. Plowing NW., it enters France at Pont du Eoi, in the 
department of Ilaute Garonne. It runs thence NE. to Tou¬ 
louse, when it*fl.ows generally NW. It passes the towns of 
St. Beat, Montrejeau, Sfc. Martory, Oazeres, (where it be¬ 
comes navigable,) Oarbonne, Merret, Toulouse, Verdun, 
Agen, Marmande, and Bordeaux. Its principal tributaries 
on the right bank are the Ariege, Tarn, Dropt, and Lotj on 
the left the Save, Gimone, Gers, Baise, and Giron. Its length 
is about 300 miles, of which 200 are navigable j but includ¬ 
ing its tributaries, which communicate with 12 departments, 


LA COUBRE AND GRAVE LIGHTS. 


213 


the total river navigation is about 1,000 miles. At Tou¬ 
louse it is joined by the Canal du Midi, by means of which 
and by this river the Mediterranean is connected with the 
bay of Biscay. The basin of the Garonne includes a tract 
of country about 185 miles in average length and breadth. 

The upper part of its course lies through narrow defiles, and 
is much obstructed. From Toulouse it is broad and shal¬ 
low, and navigation is more or less impeded by the debris 
which it brings down as far as Marmande, 50 miles above 
Bordeaux. Its banks are fertile and picturesque. 

Point la Coubre, the western extremity of the northern Lacoubropoint, 
shore of the Gironde, is rather low and sandy, but 3 miles in 
the interior, to the northeastward, are the Grandes Dunes de 
Brisquette, considerably higher. The point is recognizable 
by the light-tower, and by the beacon on the shore, a little 
to the southward. Palmyre light-tower may also be seen 
over it when approaching from the westward. A little over 
three-fourths mile to the eastward of the point is the sema- Si^juai-station. 
phore of Bonne Anse, the dwelling of which is yellow, and 
the tower white below and black above, toward the sea. 

On La Coubre point, exhibited from a blach wooden 41 ^ 
scaffolding 100 feet high, is fixed ivhite, dioptric, third order 
light, 121 feet above sea level, visible 14 miles. 

Pointe de Grave is low and sandy, with higher downs to rointedeGrave, 
the southw^ard, and is recognizable by the two square tow¬ 
ers and the defenses. About a mile to the southward and 
westward are a beacon, and the semaphore of Saint-Nicolas ; si.?nai station, 
the building of the latter is the higher of the two, painted 
yellow, and is visible from seaward over the former, which 
is black. Twice a day the names of vessels entering and 
leaving are announced at Bordeaux from this semaphore. 

A^essels should use the International Code of Signals in mak¬ 
ing their names. The geographical number of the station 
is B. G. Q. N. 

On Grave point, exhibited from a square tower 82 feet 34 ^ 5 )? 
high, is a ichite light, fiashing every 5 seconds. The light isi''04'03" w. 
dioptric of the third order, 85 feet above sea-level, visible 
14 miles. 

On the heights on Pointe de Grave, SW. by W. 4 \V. from i 2 t .450 33 ^ 
the latter light, is a square black tower, 28 feet high, with Jy'or' w.'’””' 
a fixed greenWght, 71 feet above sea-level, visible 7 miles to 


214 


GIRONDE RIVER LIGHTS. 


seaward, 12° each side of the line of direction to Grave 
light. 

Grand Banc The Grand Baiic light-ship, sometimes called that of La 
Coubre, is anchored in 8 fathoms water, to the southeast- 
long.i U5i Mauvaise shoal, and IJ miles to the southward 

and westward of La Coubre point. The vessel is red, and 
shows two fixed leliite lights, on separate masts, 34 and 23 
feet, respectively, above the water-line, both visible 11 miles. 

Fog-bell. In fogs a bell is sounded, in the light-ship; 5 strokes 

every 30 seconds. 

cordouanlight: Cordouan light-tower is a handsome circular structure, 
loig.I'j 10 ' 30 " w! painted white and red, 207 feet from base to vane, built on 
a rocky shoal, to the southward of the middle of the entrance 
to the Gironde. From it is exhibited, 197 feet above the 
sea, a tvliite revolving light, with red Hashes when between 
the bearings S. and W. f S. The interval of revolution is 
1 minute. The eclipses are not total within 10 miles. The 
light is dioptric, of the first order, visible 27 miles. In 
clear weather the tower is visible 18 miles. 

Paimyre light: ralmyrc light is exhibited from an iron tower, 99 feet 
long. 10 08'36" w. high, witli three iiillars, the upper part hlaclc. and the lower 
ivliite, 4| miles E. bj" S. from La Coubre. The light, 117 
feet above sea-level, is red and green, alternating every 20 
seconds, visible 14 miles when between the bearings ESE. 
^ E. and [N'E. by E. J E. Coming from the westward, this 
tower and light are visible over La Coubri‘, clearly defined 
against the sky. 

La Faiaise. La Falaise light, exhibited 4G feet above sea-level, from 
53" N.; long. 10 a circular black and white wooden tower, 26 feet high, is a 

0(j^ 55'/ ■yy ' 0 7 

fixed red, catoptric light of the fourth order, visible 10 
miles. The tower is on the northern shore of the entrance, 
lighf"^Lat S°" 3 ? S Cordouan. The Terre Negre tower, 

^»;;N;dong.iobc'circular, black and n'liite, 76 feet high, 601 yards ESE. ^ E. 

from the Falaise light house, exhibits, 121 feet above the 
sea, a fixed icliiie dioptric light of the third order, visible 
14 miles. This light is not visible from seaward south of a 
line drawn from the tower through the NE. buoy of Mout- 
revel bank. 

The Chay light-tower is 197 yards from the edge of the 
long. 10 02'33" w: cliff. Square, 62 feet in height, the upper part black and the 
lower u'kite. From it is exhibited, 88 feet above the sea, a 
fixed red ligiit, visible 10 miles, through an arc of 24'^. 


GIROKDE RIVER LIGHTS. 


215 


XE. of Ghay light is that of Saint-Pierre. This is a fixed - ; 

mi light, li7 feet above the sea, visible 12 miles through 10 oi' 

an arc of 24^, exhibited from a square tower, with red and 
ichite bands, 115 feet high. 

One hundred and fifty-two yards from the end of theL^.®-^ 5 o 
jetty of Eoyan, is fixed wMte^ catoptric, fourth-order light, fi// 

44 feet above sea-level, visible 10 miles, exhibited from a 
circular rough stone and mortar tower, 3 C feet high. 

On Yalliere point is Saint-George light, fixed red, diontiic, st. George 

.,•11 , , is i i ’ light: Lat. 450 35' 

third order, 40 feet above the sea, visible 18 miles through long. poo' 

an arc of 15*^, exhibited from the top of a house 20 feet^^ 

high. 

On Suzac Hills, 2,734 yards to the southeastward of Saint- ^^ 4^^450 
George light, at an elevation of 121 feet above sea-level, 
is a fixed red^ dioptric, third-order light, visible 18 miles, 
shown from the top of a house 20 feet high. It illuminates 
an arc of 15°. 

On Tallais bank, in 2 J fathoms water, 4J miles SE. J S. 
from Pointe de Grave, is anchored a light-ship, painted red, ^ 5 // 

showing in the day a red ball, and at night a fixed icliite, 
catoptric, third-order light, 35 feet from water-line, visible 
10 miles. During foggy weather a bell is sounded 5 5 strokes 
every half minute. 

On the western bank of the river, miles from Grave^Richard^iight: 
point, is Kichard light, fixed red, dioptric, of the third order, n. long. 0 ° 56' 
105 feet above sea-level, visible 10 miles, exhibited from a 
round tower, 53 feet high, with three pillars. 

Off Tour de By, on a 2J-fathom bank, is anchored a light- 
ship, painted with horizontal blade and red stripes, showing ^5°^ 23 ^' 
a fixed idiite, catoptric, third-order light, 34 feet from water¬ 
line, visible 10 miles. During fogs a bell is sounded,* 5 
strokes every half minute. 

Close to the western shore at Mapon, between Marechale ^lapon light- 
and Mapon shoals, in 3J fathoms water, is alight-ship, painted Jo 
red, showing a fixed ichite, catoptric, third-order light, 33 
feet from water-line, visible 9 miles. There are 5 strokes 
of the fog-bell given every half minute. 

On the w’estern side of the river, half-mile from the shore, 

Mousset light, exhibited 07 feet above sea-level, from 0 ° 45 " 

blade wooden scaffolding, 40 feet high, is fixed wliite^ with 


21G 


LIGHTS—TIDES. 


Gaetlight: Lat 
450 12' 23" N.; 
long. 0044 ' 55" W, 


Patlras light; 
Lat. 45012 ' 22 'N.; 
long. 0^43' 04' W! 


Pauillac lights; 
Lat. 45011 '57" N.; 
long. 0° 44' 47" W. 


Lat. 450 12'01' 
N.; long. 0° 44 
43" ^Y. 


Blaye lights. 


Tides. 


Bore. 


red sector in the direction of Gaet. It is a dioptric light of 
the fourth order, visible 6 miles. 

; At the entrance to the channel of Gaet is a ivhlte iron 
beacon, 20 feet high, from which is exhibited, 20 feet above 
sea-level, a dioptric, fourth-order, ichitc light, with red 
sector to the south-southeastward, visible G miles. 

On the north point of Patiras island, exhibited 43 feet 
’ above the sea-level, from a black wooden scaffolding 43 feet 
high, is a catoptric, fourth-order, white flash light, visible 
13 miles. Interval of flash 4 seconds. 

On the west side of the river, on the landing-place at 
! Pauillac, is aflxed green light, catoptric, of the fourth order, 
20 feet above sea-level, visible 7 miles, exhibited from an 
iron post 18 feet high 5 

; And on the end of the pier, 23 feet above sea-level, is a 
flxed ivhite light, with red sector toward the north, visible 
G miles. This is a catoptric light of the fourth order, ex¬ 
hibited from a ivhite iron post 19 feet high. 

At the extremity of discharging-place, at Blaye, is a> flxed 
yellow light. At landiug-place, in latitude 45^ 07' 27" X., 
longitude 0^ 40' OG" W., is jived white catoptric,fourth-or¬ 
der light, IG feet above sea-level, visible 4 miles, exhibited 
from a wooden scaffolding. At the entrance to the port of 
Blaye is a flxed red light. 

It is high water, full and change, at Cordon an, at 3^^ 37“^; 
mean spring rise, 13f feet; neap, lO.J feet. Equinoctial 
tides rise 17 and 18 feet. In general, with a strong wind 
blowing up the river, a favourable tide may be depended 
upon, and a low one with the wind blowing to seaward. 

At Bordeaux the highest tides rise 21i feet at springs; 
the smallest neap rise is lOJ. Mean spring rise 1G| feet ; 
mean neap rise 12 f feet. 

At high springs the river is liable to a hore^ which, mov¬ 
ing along with impetuous velocity, the crest 13 to IG feet 
above the surface of the current, often causes serious dam¬ 
age to vessels. It ascends the Dordogne about 20 miles. 

The Annuaire des Marees gives for every day the hour 
and height of high water at Cordonan. There is a retarda¬ 
tion of the tide as the riv^er is ascended. The following 
table gives the number of minutes to be added to the time 


TIDES—CURRENTS. 


217 


of high water at Cordonan, to find the same at difiereiit 
places along the banks : 


i 

! 

' Month. 

1 

1 Eoyan. 


Richard. 

La Marechale j 

Pauillac. 

Blaye. 

! 

Bee d’Ambes. j 

Lormont. 

Bordeaux. 

.. —-8_ 1 

December, June. 

m. 

m. 

m. 

h. m. 

h. m. 

li. m. 

h. m. 

h. m. 

h. in. 

23 

23 

43 

1 CO 

1 12 

1 25 

1 50 

2 44 

2 49 

January, May, July, November 
; February, April, August, Oc- 

23 

23 

44 

1 03 

1 16 

1 29 

1 54 

2 48 

2 53 

1 tober... 

23 

23 

46 

1 06 

1 22 

1 35 

2 00 

2 54 

2 59 

1 March, September. 

23 

23 

48 

1 10 

1 30 

1 43 

2 08 

3 03 

3 08 


Under some circumstances the preceding will not prove 
correct. 1. With a SW. Avind the tide is propagated more 
rapidly, making a difference of 10 minutes, sometimes, at 
Bordeaux. 2. When the river is swollen the tide may 
reach its height 15 minutes earlier at Pauillac, and 30 min¬ 
utes earlier at Bordeaux. Below Pauillac there is no ap¬ 
preciable change from the latter cause. Between Cordonan 
and Pauillac the flood-tide is propagated at the rate of 
about 18 miles an hour, and between Pauillac and Bor¬ 
deaux about 14 miles an hour. 

At the mouth of the Gironde the tidal currents are sub- Tidal currents, 
ject to considerable variations in duration and strength. 

Owing to the influence of the current of the river, and the 
general northerly current along the coast, the flood-tide is 
felt less in the Northern Pass than in the Southern. In 
some neaps, with the wind steadily from the southward, the 
flood may not run at all during the entire day near Ooubre 
point, while near Le CheA^rier bank there would be 4 hours 
of flood and 8 hours of ebb tide. In the Charentais Pass 
ne ther extreme would be experienced. In the channel of 
Yerdon, inside GraA^e point, the tidal currents attain a 
speed of 3J knots, while farther up, in the Garonne, they 
do not exceed 3 for the ebb and 2J for the flood. 

During the flood-tide there is a slight transverse current 
in the lower part of the Gironde, setting toward the eastern 
shore, caused by the left bank being shoaler than the right. 

During the ebb the opposite effect is produced, but it is less 
marked. 

At springs it is slack-water flood for 35 minutes at Panil- 

























218 SOUNDINaS OFF THE COAST. 

lac, aud 20 miuiites at Bordeaux, and slack-water ebb for 
30 minutes at Pauillac, aud 20 at Bordeaux. In the freshets 
these figures are much modified. At Pauillac the ebb may 
then frequently run all day; farther down stream the ebb 
would run at the surface, while an under-current of salt 
water would be ascending the stream, 
riiots. ]S'o large ship should attempt to enter the Gironde with¬ 

out a pilot, because of the shifting of the banks and the 
uncertainty of finding the buoys in proper position. The 
pilots are, in general, excellent seamen, and worthy of con¬ 
fidence, and will be met 25 and 30 miles from land. 

Tags. Steam-tugs are always ready, but it is not obligatory to 

employ them. The expense can. be, and is frequently, 
avoided without loss of time, especially with spring-tides. 
Approaching The depth of water and nature of the bottom are valua- 
the coast. 1 ^ 1 ^ guides to a captain approaching the coast. Coming 
Soundings. from the westward on the parallel of Oordouan, 82 fiithoins 
will be found 90 miles off, with fine gray sand and broken 
shell bottom. Just outside this, the depth increases IGO 
fathoms in the space of 1 mile. Keeping on to the east¬ 
ward, at 78 miles from Oordouan are 71 fathoms; at G2 
miles, G5 fathoms; at 53 miles, GO fathoms ; and at 45 miles, 
55 fathoms. As the soundings decrease, the broken shells 
become more and more rare in the bottom. 
taSiit ^distance depths of 55 to 27 fathoms, the distance in miles 

from shore. froiii Cordouan may be calculated by subtracting 5 from one- 
half the depth in metres^ reduced to low water. This may 
be relied on as being correct to within 1 mile. 

The muddy waters of the Gironde do not branch out 
equally to the northward and southward of the mouth. 
Their general direction at first is about WKW., and after¬ 
ward, influenced by the general northerly current, they flow 
about KW. In this track the bottom is soft mud to 35 fath¬ 
oms depth. To the southward this soft mud is not found ; 
even when the muddy stream is driven to the southward by 
a wind from the northward and westward, there are no 
traces of it on the sand in less than 40 fathoms. 

Coming in on the parallel of 45^ 15', tbe sudden change 
of depth spoken of above will be found 80 miles from the 
coast, aud, at 77 miles, 82 fathoms; at 39 miles, 55 fathoms; 





DIUECTIONS—ENTRANCES. 


210 


at 21 miles, 41 fathoms; and at 2 miles from the beach, 11 
fathoms. 

To find the distance in miles from the shore, between, ‘"^scer- 

, , ’ taming distance 

depths of 00 and 22 fathoms on this parallel, deduct eleven 
from one-half the depth in metres. 

Coming from the southward, it must be borne in mind ^'»«tioii. 
that a vessel will overrun her reckoning, particularly with a 
southerly wind, owing to Eennell’s current. 

Coming from the northward, the lights of Eochebonne or 
He d’Yeu will probably have been sighted. At all events, 
bottom of red sand speckled with black should be left to 
port, and the muddy stream followed to the mouth of the 
river. 

It is scarcely possible to be in doubt about Cordouan light, at uKt 
there being only two other revolving lights in the vicinity, 
that of Contis, 80 miles to the southward, and the Baleines, 

40 miles to the northward, both of which have an interval 
of revolution of half a minute. So a captain would rarely 
be reduced to the necessity of timing the interval of revo¬ 
lution to verify his position. 

With a little fog Jind peculiar atmosj)heric conditions, when caution, 
not far from La Coubre light, and a little to the northward, 
it may be possible not to see Cordouan at the same time, in 
which case the former light might be confounded with Chas- 
siron. This confusion may be obviated, and all doubts re¬ 
moved, by sounding. In 16 to 27 fathoms, coarse red sand 
will be found ofl Chassiron, and soft mud off La Coubre. 

There are three principal entrances to the Gironde river, 
equally used, notwithstanding the difference of their depths. 

The Passe du 2^ord, the direction of which is that of the 
stream, W2s W., is the deepest. It has 5^ fathoms at low 
water, and is half a mile wide. 

The Passe des Charentais leads EXE. and WSW., with a 
least depth of 3f hithoms, and a width of 1 mile. 

The Passe du Sud is the shoalest, (2J fathoms,) and has a 
bend in it. It may be entered steering XE. 

Owing to the difference of six points in the directions of 
the first and the last of these, the direction of the wind may 
determine the one for a sailing-vessel to use. The tidal cur¬ 
rents, described above, also give special qualities to each. 

The fog off the entrance is often very thick, and yet not 


220 


PASSE DU NORD. 


liigber tliau 75 or 100 feet; the land and sea are completely 
hidden, while the tops of light-towers are visible above it. 
There is also sometimes a dry haze, called by the pilots La 
Brume Seche, accompanied by a calm and a swell in all the 
channels. This is rather to be feared, particularly by a sail¬ 
ing-vessel. 

Passe duXord. The Northern pass, or Passe du Nord, is to be preferred, 
under ordinary circumstances, for the steamers of the pres¬ 
ent large size, being the deepest. There is also room for 
sailing-vessels to beat in or out. The Banc du Coubre must 
be looked out for, as the currents would be apt to drift a 
ship on it, particularly with a breeze from seaward. 

^in heavy v-ea- heavy weather this is the only pass that is practicable, 
and the pilots even hesitate to use it, but often advise cap¬ 
tains to run for the Pertuis. The class of vessel, as well as 
the state of the sea, will have a good deal to do in deter¬ 
mining a captain whether to try it or not. With the flood- 
tide a large steamer could enter in almost any weather, the 
best time being about two hours before high water, even 
though the sea be still breaking in the channel. A sailing- 
vessel, on the other hand, under the same circumstances, 
and with all iwecautions taken of head sail, &c., might very 
possibly broach-to, or be brought by the lee. 

During the ebb-tide it would be dangerous, even for a 
large, powerful steamer, to attempt, in bad weather, to pass 
the high sea that would be raised. 

Directions. Having made land, and selected the Northern pass, steer 
for La Coubre point, S. 80^ E. Palmyre light-tower will be 
seen over it from a distance of 13 miles in clear weather. 
Keep on this course, passing about half a mile to the north¬ 
ward of the fairway buoy, which is placed 5 miles from La 
Coubre light, sphero-conical in shape, with a ball and pris¬ 
matic mirror. The two red buoys, indicating the NW. and 
NE. extremities of La Mauvaise bank, will also be passed 
well to starboard. When abreast the latter, that is, 2 miles 
from La Coubre, the Grand Banc light-ship and Cordouan 
will be in line, S. 39'^ E. Keep this alignment until near 
the former, when the light-towers of La Ealaise and Terre 
Negre will be in line, bearing S. 80^ E. Steer for them, or 
for the old light-tower of Pontaillac, a little open to the 
southward. Shortly after passing the eastern buoy of the 





PASSE DU NORD. 


221 


BaiTe-ii-rAnglais, (black caii-buoy with black ball,) on the 
port hand, and the middle buoy ot* Moiitrevel (red nuii- 
buoy) on the starboard, port the helm gently, and look for 
the two houses from which are exhibited the lights of Saint- 
George and Suzac. Bring these in line S. 05o E., and steer 
for them. The nearer of these small houses being 8 miles 
oif, there might very possibly be some delay in finding them. 

In that case, a safe timo to port the helm would be when be¬ 
tween the eastern buoy of Barre-a-PAnglais and the eastern 
buoy (red) of Moutrevel, one-third way from the former to 
the latter. Then steer S. 65'^ E., and the light-houses would 
soon be made nearly in line. 

When abreast the old light-tower of Pontaillac, the Tal- 
lais Bank light-ship and Richard light-tower will be in line, 
bearing S. 30*^ E. When near the light ship a vessel can 
anchor or keep on up the river. 

Cordouan light will be the first sighted. When 
light on La Coubre point is made, bring the latter gradually 
to bear S. 80° E. The red and green flashes of Palmyre 
light will be seen over it. As the two lights of Grand Banc 
light ship approach Cordouan, port the helm gently, bring 
them in line, and steer for them. The red light of La 
Falaise will gradually approach the ^cliite light of Terre 
Xegre beyond. These being only C'Jl) yards apart, will not 
be much open at any time, and the alignment of them will 
be liable to inexactness. A vessel should steer for them 
S. 80° E., w'hen near the light ship. There is plenty of water 
for some distance, even to the southward of the latter. 

Four and a half miles on this course will bring Saint George 
and Suzac lights in line S. Go° E. Keep this alignment 
until Pointe de Grave light bears S. 10° E., and Tallais bank 
light ship is on with the rei light at Richard. 

If the breeze be from the eastward there will not be much with un d- 
danger of being set on La Coubre bank, and, instead of 
standing so long for the Grand Banc light-ship, a vessel 
could starboard the helm as soon as Suzac light opens to 
the southward of Saint George light, steering for them 
until abreast of Pontaillac. 

In these different courses the least depth on the outer bar Depths, 
is 6J fathoms, and in the stretch, after doubling La Mauvaise 
bank, when a vessel would be in the trough of the sea raised 


PASSE DU Js^OKD. 


222 


Caution. 


Eeating in 


B( ating ii 
nigbt. 


by a SW. wiiitl, H fathoms. Nothing less than this will be 
found before passing Pontaillac. Just before reaching 
Tallais Bank light ship 3J fathoms will be found on a sort 
of bar marked by a black can-buoy. By passing this buo 3 ^ 
3 cables to starboard 4.J fathoms can be kept. To do this 
at night, when abreast of Grave light, bring Richard light 
open 5^ to the eastward of Tallais light-ship; or the buoy" 
may be passed about the same distance to port. As soon 
as La Coubre light is hidden by the works on Grave point 
l)ort the helm and steer S. one-half mile for the anchorage. 

It is next to impossible to beat in through the Northern 
Pass unless the flood-tide be running in. With the moon 
quartering and the wind from S. or JSE., it will ran scarcely 
an hour, which would be but scant time even to reach the 
anchorage inside tlie Grand Banc. In this case, therefore,, 
it would be better to enter one of the other passes. 

Beating out through the Northern pass is always easy-,, 
as the tide runs ebb 7^ hours to hours flood, even with a 
NW. wind, and slacks for 1 hour after low water. 

Whether beating in or out, the buoys are good guides for 
when to go in stays. 

Working in at night, having La Coubre light approxi¬ 
mately’ on the bearing S! 80® E., when the depth is reduced 
to GJ fathoms, (at low water,) go about alternately, as Pal- 
my-re light opens a little to the northward and a little more 
to the southward of La Coubre, until the light-ship’s two 
lights and Cordouau come near to eacli other. After that, 
working in to the southeastward, the ship should be tacked 
on the northern side of the channel when Suzac light is still 
a little open to the southward of Saint-George. The boards 
to the southward may^ be made quite long, and w^hen near 
the meridian of the light-ship, may be extended to 1 mile 
to the southward of it. After passing to the eastward of 
its meridian to clear Moatrevel bank, the ship must be put 
about when Terre Negre has just opened to the southward 
of Falaise light. When Cordouan shows red the stretches 
to the northward may be lengthened to bring Suzac light 
open to the northward of Saint-George. The channel then 
is three-fourths mile wide, the range of the’ two last-named 
lights leading through the middle. 



BANKS IN THE GIRONDE. 


223 


The baoys will now be reviewed, and directioas givea for 
dispensing with them by means of ranges on shore. 

When two miles outside the breakers on La Maavaise Mauvaise 
shoal, the church-steeple of Marennes, in the northward 
and eastward, will be just disappearing behind the downs 
of Arvert. After passing the fairway buoy, 1 mile outside 
the bank, in ordinary weather a vessel may tack 200 yards 
from the red buoys If these should have disappeared, 
bring La Ooubre light-tower open to the northward of that 
of Palmyre, and go about, tacking again when Terre Negre 
light-tower is in one with the old light-tower of Pontaillac. 

Pass pretty close to the breakers on the northeastern ex¬ 
tremity of the bank, and stand to the southward an 1 eist- 
ward as soon as they bear to the westward of south. Once 
inside, the depths are regular, and long stretches can be 
made to the southward. 

A sandy ledge, called the Demi-Banc, extends 3 miles 
N W. by W. from La Coubre point, running up from there 
parallel to the coast. The depths vary from 3 to 5 fath¬ 
oms. On the southern edge is a spot called the Banc de 
la Coubre, which dries at low water, just outside of which 
is a depth of 9.J fathoms. The southern limit of the latter 
is marked bj^ 2 black buoys. 

Vessels coming from the northward, with a good breeze 
from northeastward, need not bring La Ooubre and Pal¬ 
myre lights in one, but may head in S. 39^ E. as soon as 
Cordouan and the light ship are in line on that bearing. 

This should not be done with a light breeze, for fear of be¬ 
ing becalmed and obliged to anchor near the reefs. 

The Barre a-l’Anglais bank bars the entrance to Bonne Barre-rt-i An 

glais. 

Anse, which can be considered but a moderately good an¬ 
chorage. It is marked by 2 black can-buoys, one of which 
is placed in G fathoms water in the channel, three-fourths 
of a mile to the westward of the extremity of the bank, 
and the other 400 yards to the southward of the steepest 
part of the southern edge. In the absence of these buoys, 
the beacon of Pontaillac in line with Terre Xegre light 
gives the southern limit; during the ebb-tide a vessel 
should tack before making that alignment, as the current 
might drift her on it while in stays. 


224 


CHARENTAIS AND SOUTHERN PASSES. 


Montreve 

bank. 


Terre X ^ g r e 
bank. 


Passe des Cba- 
rentals. 


Directions. 


Heating in. 


Passe du Sad. 


' It has been said above that after passing to the eastward 
of Grand Banc light ship, Montrevel bank will shorten the 
boards to the southward. The northern part of this shoal 
is marked by 3 red buoys, the inner and outer being nun- 
buoys, and the middle one a can buoy with a red ball. Be¬ 
tween them and the buoys of the Barre-a-FAnglais, the 
width is about three-fourths of a mile, but it would not be 
advisable to make stretches longer than two-thirds of a 
mile straight across. Should these buoys disappear, go 
in stays when the wind-mills of Didonne come over the 
fort of Koyan. In bad weather Montrevel bank breaks 
throughout its entire length. 

There is a depth of 4 fathoms on Terre Negre bank, and 
as it never breaks, save in a heavy blow, it is not much to 
be feared. Its northern edge is very abrupt. 

Chareutais pass is the route over the middle of the Grand 
Banc, and, with much of a sea from SW., is impracticable 
from the breakers throughout its length. But in good 
weather it possesses several great advantages. The least 
depth is fathoms at low water, and in the case of sailing- 
vessels, with a southerly wind, they could reach Royau in 
one tide, while it would take them two coining in through 
the northern pass. 

Bring Palmyre light one-half point to the southward of 
the light-ship, N. 75° E. Steer this course beyond the lat¬ 
ter, which will have been passed one-half mile to port, until 
Falaise and Terre Kegre lights come in line, and then fol¬ 
low the directions given above. 

Beating in through this pass is easy, as stretches of 3 
miles can be made with 3J fathoms water. At night, as by 
day, the ranges for tacking are Palmyre light open one- 
half point to the northward, and 1 point to the southward of 
the light-ship. 

The Southern pass, or Passe du Sud, is to be preferred 
for vessels, entering with a S. or SW. wind, and going out 
with a northerly wind. There is less water in it than in the 
Charentais pass, but the shoal spots are inside of Cor- 
douan, and not exposed to much swell. It is possible, with 
good, careful pilotage, to have never less than 3J fath¬ 
oms. 




PASSE DU SUD. 


225 


As soou as Cordouau is sighted, shape a course to pass 4J 
miles to the southward of it, (being careful, if at any distance 
from land, to make allowance for the northerly current,) and 
the fairway buoy, black and red, will be met 5J miles SW. 
J S. from the light. Pass to the southward of this, and the 
semaphore of Saint-Nicolas will soon be seen over a hlack 
beacon, bearing N. 71o E., which alignment leads up the 
outer channel; or the alignment of Grave and Saint-Nico- 
las lights may be made in the offing and kept. When 
north of the outer buoy, (red,) off the Banc des Olives, 
four buildings will be made to the westward of the town of 
Eoyan, which, taken two and two, give nearly parallel 
alignments. 

During the day, either the latter alignment or Chay light 
on with Saint-Pierre light may be taken, but only for 2 
miles^ until approaching a black can-buoy; then port the 
helm a little to bring the Saint-Pierre light-tower between 
the tower and light-tower of Chay, on which range 3J fath¬ 
oms will be kept. 

Continuing on this course, gradually bringing the lights 
in one again, as the red nun-buoy off the Platin de Grave 
is approached, give it a good berth, leaving it to starboard 
as the flood sets on to that bank. 

After passing the buoy oft* the Platin de Grave, steer east 
to bring Tallais light-ship and Eichard light-tower in one. 

It would be delicate work at night to keep in 3J fathoms, 
in the southern pass, but by keeping Saint-Pierre and Chay 
lights moderately open, the latter to the westward, 2J 
fathoms can be kept. 

To And the channel, steer K 63^ E. for Grave light, and 
Saint-Xicolas light will be made under it. When Cordouau 
bears about N. J E., Chay and Saint-Pierre lights will be 
made, the one over the other in line N. 47° E. Steer for 
them for about 2 miles, then port the helm gently, and for a 
few cables’ lengths keep the lower one (Chay) a little open to 
the westward of the upper, (Saint-Pierre.) Bringing them 
again in line vertically, keep on that course until Cordouau 
shows red; the ship’s head may then be laid east for the 
alignment of Tallais and Eichard lights. 

The course may be changed to the eastward off the Platin 
15 N 0 


Directions. 


Caution. 


At night. 


22G 


PASSE DU SUD. 


de Grave, when Tallais light-ship shows clear of the end 
of the jetty of Grave. 

Caution. If the night be dark, and the vessel high out of water, 

care must be taken not to mistake the moment of its emerg¬ 
ing from behind the downs of Grave, for that of its clearing 
the end of the jetty. This mistake might put a vessel on a 
shoal spot on the Platin de Grave, with only 3 feet of water 
on it. It is best to enter the red sector of Cordouan. 

Beating in. With northerly winds and flood-tide, vessels coming from 
the southward have an advantage in beating up the south¬ 
ern pass, instead of working up outside to one of the 
outer entrances. While first approaching the entrance to 
the channel, the limit of the stretches to the northward is 
with the northern buoy of the Banc des Olives on with the 
beacon of Vieux Soulac, or the black can-buoy of Le Chev- 
rier on the same range. Le Ohevrier is avoided by having 
Saint-Pierre church steeple barely open to the westward of 
Ohay tower. 

Eoiiffiatbank. The alignment of the light towers of Oh ay and Saint- 
Pierre leads over the bank of Eoufiiat. A large vessel 
should tack to the eastward of this range, on approaching 
the black can-buoy of RoufiBat, making another stretch to 
the northward and westward when one half mile north of the 
buoy, or when Siizac point appears from behind the defenses 
of Grave. After that boards may be made to about three- 
fourths of a mile of Cordouan, when the steeple of Yaux 
will be a little to the eastward of the gully between Saint- 
Palais and Pontaillac. 

)o^u\ ^"6gade Working up from the southward, even with a smooth sea, 
a vessel off La Negade point should not go inshore of Cor- 
douau on with Pal my re light. 

Bar.cdesOlives. When abrcast the red buoy off the west end of the Olives 
bank, a vessel may run farther to the eastward, but not 
farther than the line between the two buoys of that bank. 
Farther up, go about when Saint-Pierre light is hidden 
behind the tower of Chay; that will lead clear of all dan¬ 
gers, including Saint-Nicolas bank and the Plateau de 
Grave. 

^^Saint - Nicolas Saiiit-Nicolus bank is rocky, and is indicated by a red 
buoy in 23 fathoms water. To steer clear of it, the pilots 
use the range of Saint Pierre steeple over the western para- 


ANCHORAGES IN THE GIRONDE. 


227 


pet of the fort of Koyan. But this is only good for this 
bank, as it leads in too close to the Plateau de Grave. 

Coasters with a northwesterly breeze frequently go inside 
the Platin de Grave. The channel is quite broad, with 3 Grave, 
fathoms water. To keep the middle of it, as soon as Suzac 
point opens from the jetty on Grave point, steer so as to 
pass about 200 yards from the end of- that jetty. That 
course, N. 80^ E., will leave the southern buoy of i\iQ platin 
600 yards to the northward. 

When working in at night, go about alternately as Saint- in at 
Nicolas light (sometimes called La Claire) opens moderately 
to the southeastward and northwestward of Grave light, 
and afterward, as Chay light opens, not quite so much, to 
the left and right of that of Saint-Pierre. 

Vessels are frequently obliged to anchor while working Anchorages, 
in the different jiasses of the Gironde. 

The first temporar\^ anchorage is about 2 miles southwest 
from La Coubre point, in 7 fathoms, sandy bottom, the 
ranges being: light ship in line with Grave light, and La 
Coubre light on with the southeasternmost of the downs of 
La Brisquette. This anchorage is out of the question in 
rough weather, as during the ebb-tide a vessel would lie 
wallowing in the trough of the sea. Nearer to La Coubre 
point the currents are too strong. 

Farther up-stream, good anchorage will be found off* Mont- off Montrevei 
revel bank, bringing Suzac light tower a little open to the 
southward of Saiut-George light. The currents are not 
strong there. 

Vessels sometimes anchor off Royan. Tbe harbor itself off Royan. 
has a depth of only IJ fathoms, and there is a heavy surf 
there during a southwesterly galej but between the town 
and Saiut-George bank, any depth can be found up to 13 
fathoms. At 400 yards from the harbor-light, with Valliere 
and Suzac points in line, is a depth of 3J fathoms, mud bot¬ 
tom. To anchor in 5J fathoms, bring the point on which 
stands Royan fort in line with Terre Negre light-tower. 

The bottom there is gravel. 

Saint-George bank breaks when other places of the same saint-Ge or g e 

bank. 

depth do not. This is caused by the abrupt change from 
12 fathoms to 4J, and finally to 3 fathoms. During a heavy 
sea the breakers join those of Valliere point, blocking the 


228 


ANCHORAGES IN THE GIRONDE. 


y e r d 0 n 
chorage. 


Anchorage 

Chambrette. 


Na Vig a t i 
from Yerdou 
Tauillac. 


eastern channel, in which are 7 fathoms. A black can-buoy 
marks the NW. extremity. Standing in, north of the bank, 
for the anchorage, keep Eoyan light a little to the right of 
the last houses to the eastward of the towm, passing the 
buoy to starboard. Descending the river, to pass inside the 
bank, bring Saint-Pierre light-tower over Valli^re point, 
passing about 400 yards from the latter, and then head for 
the tower of Ohay. 

The anchorage of Yerdon is very extensive, and much 
frequented, notwithstanding several drawbacks. Outward- 
bound vessels often remain there a fortnight, waiting for 
favorable winds or weather. There is communication with 
Bordeaux by means of the semaphore of Saint-Nicolas, 
and agents in the former city can consequently send orders, 
and tugs can be obtained, either for putting to sea or as¬ 
cending the river. In winter, particularly, the anchorage 
is apt to be crowded. 

Vessels coming in generally come-to below Tallais light- 
vessel, on or near the line between it and Grave point, in 
fathoms, sand and mud. The best bearings are the ex¬ 
tremity of the works of Grave on wdth Palmyre point, or 
with the light ships of Tallais and By in line, and the village 
of Yerdon in line with the semaphore of Saint-Eicolas. The 
pilots have other marks, but the foregoing are amxhe and 
easily found. 

The principal disadvantage in this anchorage is, that in 
stormy weather, the swell heaving in round Grave point will 
sometimes make ships override their anchors while lying to 
the ebb, and part their cables in surging. Every year there 
are a number of anchors lost which the pilots have to weigh. 
To remedy this, it is the intention to plant mooring-buoys 
here just clear of the track of vessels, 
of To the northeastward of the up aiid down stream range 
of the anchorage of V^erdon, deeper water will be found, but 
also stronger currents. Abreast of Chambrette, however, 
near the shore, north of Barbe Grise buoy, in 5 fathoms 
water, the currents are feeble. 

X Boats can land at high water on the beach abreast the 
town, or at half-tide at the pier of Yerdon. 
on The breadth of this xmrtion of the river diminishes from 
4 to miles abreast of Pauillac. A range of banks divides 



KIVER NAVIGATION. 


229 


the stream, forming two channels, one along the coast of 
Medoc and the other along that of Saiutonge. The former 
is used almost exclusively, being deeper and more com¬ 
pletely buoyed. 

The direct route from Verdon to Pauillac, either by night 
or by day, is made by ranges of lights, either ashore or 
afloat. Leaving the anchorage of Verdon, if below the 
light-ship, as is generally the case, pass it 200 yards to star¬ 
board and run 2 miles, keeping it open half a point to the 
southward of Grave light-tower. Then bring them in line, 
steering SE. for the light ship of By, distant 10 miles from 
that of Tallais. 

Midway between these two light ships, off Richard light, 
a little outside the line of Tallais and Grave lights, is a 
sunken wreck. This is marked by a vessel of thirty tons, 
anchored to the eastward of it, and showing at night from 
the mast head a fixed red light, which, being visible only 4 
miles, cannot cause any confasiop in ranges. 

The least depth in this stretch of 10 miles is 2J fathoms 
at low water near the light ship of By. The latter may be 
passed either to starboard or to port, according to the di¬ 
rection of the wind, but not farther off than 200 yards. 
Then Mapon light ship and Patiras light should be brought 
in line, S. 22^ E. 

In the day-time the former can always be made from 
abreast of By, but not so the latter, the tower being only 
43 feet high. The course in the deepest part of the chan¬ 
nel lies parallel to and 600 yards from the river-bank after 
leaving Oastillon, and a red can-buoy is anchored oft* the 
rocky ledge jutting out from Loudenne. 

Pass Mapon light-vessel to starboard, and bring it back 
in line astern with that of By, keeping the course S. 22® E. 
until Saint-Lambert light-tower is in line with the light¬ 
house on the end of the steamboat pier at Pauillac. 

During the flood-tide there is an easterly set here, which 
must be guarded against, the channel abreast of Padarnac 
being very narrow. 

There is anchorage for If miles between Le Lazaret and 
Pauillac. Ocean steamers come-to in the lower part, the 
depth being 3| fathoms at low water. Farther up there is 
less water, and the channel is narrower. 


Wreck. 


Caution. 


Ancliorage. 


230 


TOWI^S ON THE GIRONDE. 


Quaranti 

ground. 


Roy an. 


Pauillac. 


Blaye. 


Libourne. 


Bordeaux. 


® Off Le Lazaret is the quarantine ground. Off* Pauillac 
the anchorage is about 300 yards from the quay, with the 
pier-head light open to’the westward of Saint-Lambert light, 
or Gaet light to the westward of that of Mousset. It is best 
to come to below the piers, as the river-steamers might foul 
a vessel above. 

No vessel attempts to ascend the Garonne or Dordogne 
without a pilot. In the former, the general directions at 
night are to pass all green lights to port, and red lights to 
starboard. 

There are many towns and villages on the banks of the 
Gironde. Among these Royan is noticeable. It is opposite 
point de Grave, and derives a certain importance from local 
commerce and from the number of bathers that come there 
during the season. As the port is improved, it will proba¬ 
bly become the station for tugs. 

The first town, in point of importance, on the river is 
Pauillac, on the left bank, 27 miles from point de Grave. 
A'essels of too great draught to reach Bordeaux come here 
to load and unload, and add largely to the trade of the lat¬ 
ter city. Outward-bound vessels provision and water ship 
here. The trade was first opened in 1809 by an English 
company, with a monthly steamer to Liverpool. In that 
year the British-laden tonnage was 21,000. In 1873 the 
whole tonnage was about 199,400, of which 192,200 was in 
English bottoms, and the remaining 7,200 principally in 
Spanish, Dutch, and German steamers. 

About 5 miles above Pauillac, on the opposite bank, is 
the town of Blaye, noted for 'its fortifications. Its popula¬ 
tion is about 5,000. Many of the pilots reside there. 

The principal town on the Dordogne is Libourne, situated 
at the confluence of that river and the Isle. It has a popu¬ 
lation of 14,000. A few vessels come there annually with 
cargoes of coal from England, and timber from Sweden and 
Norway. Vessels of 250 tons can be received. 

The city of Bordeaux is situated on the left bank of the 
Garonne, 13 miles from the confluence of that river with the 
Dordogne, and 52 miles from the mouth of the Gironde. It 
is in the shape of a crescent, and connected with its suburb, 
Bastide, by a stone bridge 1,590 feet long, with 17 arches, 
completed in 1821 at a cost of $1,300,000. In the old part 


BORDEAUX. 


231 


of the city the streets are narrow and crooked, and the 
houses poorly built; but in the new part the streets are 
well laid out and handsome, containing many elegant build¬ 
ings. Besides the palace or amphitheatre of Gallieuiis, very 
few remains of the Roman monuments are to be seen. Those 
of the Middle Ages have been better preserved; among them 
are the cathedral of Saint-Andre, an imposing though ir¬ 
regular edifice, consecrated in 1096, and completed in the 
fifteenth century; the church of Saint-Michel, built about 
the twelfth ceuturj^; the church of Sainte Croix, built be¬ 
fore the middle of the seventh and restored by Charlemagne; 
the imperial college and other ancient buildings. The mod¬ 
ern asi)ect is admirable. The broad curve of the Garonne 
is lined with crowded quays, adjacent to which are some of 
the most commodious warehouses in Europe. Two of the 
old gates of the city still remain, the Porte du Palais, for¬ 
merly the entrance to the palace of the Dukes of Aquitaine 
and the Seneschals of England, and the Porte de I’Hotel de 
Ville, which is surmounted by three antique turrets. There 
are numerous open squares, broad avenues, and fine prome¬ 
nades. The finest of the squares is the Place des Quiucon- 
ces, which occupies the site of the ancient Chateau Trom- 
pette. The public garden, in the same neighborhood, is 
elegantly laid out, with conservatories, &c. Among the 
finest of the modern edifices of the city are the Grand The¬ 
atre, erected in 1780, capable of seating 4,000 persons, and 
presenting one of the handsomest exteriors in Europe; the 
Bourse, in which the merchants daily assemble under a 
glass dome covering an inner court 95 feet long by 65 broad ; 
the Palais de Justice, and the Hotel de Yille, formerly the 
palace of the archbishop. There are several fine churches 
besides the mediaeval ones already mentioned ; among them 
Saint-Michel, which has a lofty detached tower and some 
fine works of art, and Saint-Seurin, remarkable for its finely 
carved porch and curious bas-reliefs. There are also a 
gallery of paintings, a museum containing many historical 
relics, a museum of natural history, and a public library 
containing 140,000 volumes. The imperial college, academy 
of arts, sciences, and belles-lettres, and the botanical gar¬ 
den, with courses of study and lectures, are among the 


232 


HOSPITAL—WET DOCK. 


Hospital. 


Wet dock 


learned institutions; and there are numerous schools and 
educational associations. 

* The civil hospital of Saint-Andre, one of the finest in 
the south of France, is situated in a good portion of the 
city, occupying nearly an entire block. The building has 
piazzas overlooking a beautiful botanical garden. Eunning 
right and left from the central hollow square are ten halls, 
each capable of accommodating 40 beds, and separated 
from each other by gardens, permitting free access of pure 
air to all the wards. Ten medical officers, and as many 
assistants, have charge of the si(jk. The poor are admitted 
gratuitously j others pay from 5 cents to $1.60 per day, 
according to their accommodations. 

Abreast the city of Bordeaux the river is one-third mile 
wide, and the currents are verj^ strong, running at times 4 
miles an hour, so that a vessel, arriving or departing, has 
to wait for the tide to serve. Sailing-vessels, as a rule, 
would find it best to club down, with the flood-tide, to the 
anchorage, and get under way at the beginning of the ebb, 
sending lines to neighboring ships to assist in casting. 

The harbor masters generally place ships in three lines 
along the shore as far as the bridge. The operations of 
loading and unloading are carried on by means of steam- 
cranes or by bridges from the vessel to the quay j or lighters 
may be had. 

fThe wet dock is 655 yards long by about 130 wide, and 
has three small basins branching from it. Of the latter, 
one is 153 yards long and 43 broad, with a minimum depth 
of 26J feet of water j the dimensions of the other two are 
approximately 130 yards by 110 yards, with a least depth 
of 24| feet. 

The quay surrounding the wet dock is 1,968 yards in 
length, being 2 feet above the level of the highest waters 
of the Garonne. Two locks, separated by a pier 11 yards 
broad, give entrance to the basin j the larger, used prin¬ 
cipally for the side-wheel steamers, is 166 yards in length 


*From report of Surgeon Wm. Bradley, U. S. N., May, 1874. 
t The work on the dock is not finished. It is expected that it will be 
completed in the course of the year 1877. 

These details were obtained through the kindness of Mr. Benj. Ger- 
rish, jr., U. S. consul at Bordeaux. 



DOCKS—INDUSTRIES. 


233 


between the gates, with a width of 24 yards. The other is 
15 yards wide^ and is divided by intermediate gates into 
two parts, 83 and 65 yards long respectively. The floors of 
both locks are 9^ feet below the level of lowest spring-tides. 
There will consequently be found at high water an average 
depth of 23 to 26 feet, increased occasionally to 30j feet, 
and sometimes reduced to 20J feet. The last occurs but 
rarely, and is never the case for two days in succession. 

A graving dock opens obliquely on the left side of the 
basin, about 220 yards from the inner gate. It is 153 yards 
in length. 

The total area of the establishment is about 128 acres, of 
which 29 are devoted to the storage of merchandise. Of 
the latter, 14 acres are reserved by the chamber of commerce 
for the establishment of store houses. 

* In addition to the above public docks there are several 
small private dry-docks and one floating-dock. There is 
also an inclined railway that has taken up a steamer 300 
feet long. 

The city is not distinguished for general manufactures. 
There are some cotton factories and sugar refineries, and 
brandy, vinegar, cordage, gloves, and musical instruments 
are made. 

“There are several machine-shops in Bordeaux, with 
smitheries and founderies attached, and most of them are 
conveniently situated on the street fronting, or very near 
the river. * * * Copper-work of all kinds can be obtained 

from the same parties that construct the boilers. * * * 
The mechanics work very slowly, and it is impossible to 
hurry them. All necessary repairs could be made to ma¬ 
chinery. * * * If time were an object it would not be ad¬ 

visable to have extensive repairs made at Bordeaux.”! 

There is but one bank in the city, and that was trans¬ 
formed in 1848 into a branch of the Bank of France. 

“ The rate of exchange varies, and is on London, at 60 
days’ sight, 25 francs to the pound sterling, and on the 
United States, 5y^o‘’Q francs to the dollar.” J 

^ From the report of Lieut. Com. Chas. W. Tracj’^, U. S. N., U. S. steamer 
Alaska, May, 1874. 

t Extract from report of Chief Eng. Robert Potts, U. 8. N., May, 1874. 

t Extract from report of Paymaster R. P. Lisle, U. S. N., May, 1874. 


Graving dock. 


Private docks. 


Industries. 


Machine-shops. 


Exchange. 



234 


COMMERCE. 


Population. 

Commerce. 


Exports. 

Imports. 


Supplies. 

Port legula- 
tions. 


The population of Bordeaux in 1872 was 104,241. 

A favorable climate, fertile soil, industrious aud frugal 
peasantry, aud annually increasing channels of transport for 
goods, are stimulating production and the interchange with 
foreign markets that this naturally" leads to. Accounts show 
that the trade has increased and is increasing in a far higher 
ratio at Bordeaux than in any other sea-coast district. Com¬ 
paring the year 1865, the last before the abolition of the 
navigation disabilities which took place in 1866, with 1873, 
the laden tonnage employed in the trade of Bordeaux with 
all foreign countries increased from 724,900 to 1,239,800, or 
71 per cent. 

It is a noticeable fact, however, that the total value of 
declared exports to the United States iu the j^ear ending 
September 30, 1874, suffered a decrease of $1,058,460, as 
compared with the preceding year, or 47 per cent. 

The principal exports are wine, brandy, grain, fruit and 
seeds, resin, turpentine, and pine lumber. 

The principal imports are colonial produce, cotton, dye¬ 
stuffs, hides, tobacco, rice, coffee, sugar, cocoa, xiepper, &c. 

Tug boat charges 60 to 70 centimes per ton register, from 
Pauillac to Bordeaux, and vice versa. 

The cost of placing a ton of merchandise alongside a ves¬ 
sel in the stream is paid by the shipper. 

The use of the steam cranes is one franc per ton, of which 
the vessel pays 20 centimes. 

Goods lying under the sheds pay 10 francs per day. La¬ 
bor, 5 francs per day. 

Mooring or buoy dues, 10 centimes per ton i>er month. 

Ballast, 1 to 3 francs per ton, put on board and spread 
out. 

Tonnage dues, 20 centimes per ton register. Quarantine 
dues, 20 centimes iier ton. 

Water, 3 to 5 francs per tun. Goal, $6.80 per ton. The 
keel of coals is reckoned at 256 hectolitres combles. 

Here, as in other French i)orts, every ship-master must 
report at the captain of the xiort’s office within 24 hours 
after his arrival, giving his own name, name of his vessel, 
owner, tonnage, draught, port of departure, aud cargo. 


SHIP EXPENSES. 235 

Inward expenses of a vessel of 400 tons register, drawing 
IG feet with cargo: 

From Ist Ai)ril to UOtli September : 

Francs. Centimes. 


From sea to Verdon. 06 50 

From Verdoii to Pauillac. 66 50 

From Pauillao to Bordeaux. 83 12 


216 12 

From Ist October to 31st March : 

From sea to Verdon. 99 75 

From Verdon to Pauillac. 66 50 

From Pauillac to Bordeaux. 83 12 


249 37 

Broker’s charges: , 

Manifest for the custom-house. 6 00 

Declaration.•.. 4 45 

Sea protest. 13 50 

Telegraph of arrival. 5 50 

Entering fees, 50 centimes per ton register. 200 00 

Petty expenses. 5 00 


234 45 

Outward expenses of same vessel: 

Pilotage. 2.34 74 

Pass. 8 00 

Outward manifest. 12 00 

Advertising. 60 00 

Bill of health. 10 00 

Brokerage on freight procured and expedition, 1 franc 

per ton of cargo. 0 00 

Charter-party and stamps. 5 50 


Received from M. Th. Columbier, courtier maritime, Bordeaux. 

Per ton register. 
Franc. Centimes. 


Commission on vessels arriving, laden, or in ballast.... 0 50 

Commission on vessels leaving in ballast. 0 50 

Commission on vessels loaded per charter-party, or on 

owners’ account. 1 00 

Commission on vessels loaded on freight, (not char¬ 
tered). 1 50 


The above expenses do not include consular charges, stamps, or sur¬ 
veyor’s visit. 

From La Ooubre point to Arvert jioint is a G-mile stretch Coa.st of Ar- 
of low, sandy coast, running N. by E., with niinierous sand- 
downs of small height; on one of the latter, 1 mile south of 
Arvert point, is a semaphore. 































23G 


PEKTUIS DE MAUMUSSON. 


MaunmsL^n Maumussoii point, the south end of Olerou island, is IJ 
miles to the northward of Arvert x)oint, and between the 
two is an inlet, called the Pertuis de Maumusson, in which, 
at low water, is a narrow, winding channel, with 18 to 42^ 
feet of water. But to enter, it is necessary to pass a bar, 
which breaks heavily in bad weather, having but feet on 
it at low water, between Les Mattes and Gatsau banks. 
The first of these extend'? 24 miles to the westward and 
northward of point d’Arvert, and the second If miles to the 
westward of Maumusson point. 

Pertuis, on the left bank of the 
loosMi" w. mouth of the Seudre, is Si fixed ivhite light, exhibited, at an 
elevation of 23 feet above sea-lev^el, from the roof of the 
*lieeper’s dwelling, which is painted white. In clear weather 
the light is visible miles when between the bearings of 
S. 600 E, and K 44o W. through SW. j it only serves to as¬ 
sist the interior navigation. 

The Pertuis has a bad name, and deservedly, the ocean 
swell heaving in and striking the channel, the banks and 
bottom of which are of sand. It is only owing to the great 
professional skill of the pilots that vessels have ever been 
able to enter. 

In good weather it is a channel of great convenience to 
vessels leaving the Gironde bound for the Gharente. The 
distance is diminished by one-half—from 32 miles round 
Chassiron, to 16. Sailing-vessels bound the opposite way 
can take advantage of the early land-breeze, going out 
through the Pertuis, and have the sea-breeze to enter the 
northern pass of the Gironde. Should they have to pass 
out to the northward of Oleron island, the breeze would fre¬ 
quently fail them when abreast of Pile d’Aix, and they 
would have to anchor not to be drifted on the beach. 

Entering. It is impossible to enter the Pertuis of Maumusson in bad 
weather, and generally so during the ebb-tide in any weath¬ 
er. The best time to try it is about 1 hour before high 
water, as the flood-tide setting with the swell, gives a 
smoother sea. There is sometimes no sea on the bar with 
a fresh southerly breeze, in which case the vessel should 
head in immediately, (the height of the tide permitting,) as 
in a couple of hours afterward it might not be practicable. ‘ 


PERTUIS DE MA.UMUSSON. 


237 


The character of the swell should always be considered, 
a moderately high and very long sea breakiug more heavily 
than a superficial wave of three times the height. 

On approaching the entrance a buoy will be made off the Directions, 
bar, which should be passed to leeward. By that time, if 
not before, two beacons will be made on the southern shore 
of the channel, the Galon d’Or and the L^zarde, one of 
which is fixed and the other movable. These in line, lead 
in. Should they be hidden in a mist, after passing the outer 
buoy, steer E. by S. for the buoy of Les Mattes, passing it 
to port, and then ESE. J E. for Gatsau buoy. When in¬ 
side Les Mattes the bar is passed, and the rest is compara¬ 
tively plain sailing. 

It would hardly be advisable to attempt to enter without caution, 
sighting the beacons, as the depths on the bar are con¬ 
stantly changing. 

From Arvert point the southern shore of the Pertuis of Coa.st of Per- 
Maumusson extends 4 miles in a general direction of E. by sou. 

N., to the mouth of the Seudre river, from which another 
stretch of 4 miles runs to the XW. by X., then a short 3 
miles to the eastward, terminating, after a 7-mile stretch to 
the north-northeastward, northward, and west-northwest¬ 
ward, in the Pointe de Piedemont, the south side of the 
mouth of the Chareute. 

From this shore a number of sand and mud banks pro- shoais. 
ject, which dry at low water, and are only separated from 
those of the SE. coast of Oldron island by narrow channels 
which connect the Pertuis of Antioche and Maumusson. 

The anchorage of Bry has the great advantage of being Anchorage of 
completely land-locked, with good holding-ground of mud.^^^‘ 

In the worst w^eather, even at high water, no sea can get in 
heavy enough to endanger a vessel. 

To reach it, after passing the black buoy of Gatsau, Directions, 
starboard the helm, being careful not to let the ship drift 
with the tide to nearer than 200 yards of the red buoy of 
Galon d’Or, and steer X. 30® E., having the Maison Goui- 
neau of Le Chapus point in line with Menson point. The 
anchorage is on that range, and the best place to let go is 
in 2J to 4J fathoms, abreast the beacons of Bry. 

The river Seudre, which falls into the Pertuis of Maumus- Seurire river, 
son, has a muddy bed, with not a rock for 7 miles above the 


238 


OLERON ISLAND. 


Inundations. 


Tides. 


Currents. 


Oleron Island. 


Population, 


Le Chateau. 


Dangers. 


entrance. Emptying into a bay and not being exposed 
to the action of waves, the soundings decrease regularly 
from the mouth, and the holding-ground in 3 and 4 fathoms 
water is so good that vessels never drag. To ascend the 
river keep in mid-stream. 

During the winter, at spring-tides, with westerly winds, 
the banks of the river are frequently ov’^erflowed, and the 
inundated plain presents the appearance of a vast lake. 
Under these circumstances it is difficult to keep in mid. 
channel. 

In the Pertuis of Maumusson it is high water, full and 
change, at 3^V31'“. Ordinary springs rise 15 feet; neaps, 10 
feet. 

At the moment of low water in the Pertuis of Maumusson 
a very rapid current runs out the western entrance, and at 
Le Ohapus another runs to the northward. But in half an 
hour the flood-tide enters from the west and flows past Le 
Ohapus into tbe Pertuis d’Autioche, while tlie curi'f nt of the 
Seuflre still runs down. This continues for LJ hours, when 
the tide commences to make up the river, and tlie strength of 
the current at the entrance to the pertuis is greatly in¬ 
creased. At high water the current flows to the southward 
past Le Ohapus, because at Gatsau bank the tide falls more 
rapidly than abreast Le Ohateau. In the Seudre river the 
currents of flood and ebb run, respectively, at the rate of 2J 
and 3 miles an hour. 

Oleron island, which is immediately in front of the mouths 
of the Seudre and Oharente rivers, is 16 miles long SE. by 
S. and NW. by N., with a breadth varying from 2 to 6 
miles. It is moderately high and very fertile, with the excep¬ 
tion of a few salt-marshes, from which salt is obtained. 

The population of the island is about 17,000, divided 
among several small townships, of which the principal is 
Saint-Pierre, situated inland. On the eastern shore, 5 miles 
to the north-northwestward of the mouth of the Seudre, 
and G miles SW. from that of the Oharente, is Le Ohateau, 
with 3,000 inhabitants, where there are ship-yards, rope- 
walks, and distilleries. 

In all directions from the shores project reefs and shoals, 
which latter extend as far as 2 miles from the seaward 
coast, and the absence of any natural landmark is a notice¬ 
able feature. 


CHASSIRON LIGHT. 


239 


At a distauce of GJ miles from poiut Maumussoii, on the LaPerroche. 
west coast, is La Perroche, off which extends the plateau of 
the same name. Coasters sometimes seek refuge there in a 
cut that extends some little distance to seaward. Two bea¬ 
cons lead in between the submerged reefs. 

At La Cotiniere, 2 miles to the northwestward of La Per- LaCotim^re. 
roche, is a little tidal harbor, where the pilots of the Gironde 
frequently come for shelter, and which has been greatly 
improved by a jetty. The greatest depth, 3 feet at low 
water, is immediately under the lee of this jetty. A buoy 
has been placed outside for the boats to make fast to while 
waiting for high water. Bochardon rock protects this buoy 
from a S. or SW. sea. A life-boat is stationed here. Life-boat. 

A heavy sea is often found on the Plateau de Ohassiron, cha^iron“ au^d 
off the northern end of the island, but a worse one still on chardonnidre. 
that of Chardonniere, which extends 5 miles to seaward 
from a little north of the centre of the island, with depths 
nowhere exceeding 11 fathoms. A good berth should be 
given the latter, by bearings of either Ohassiron or La 
Coubre lights. 

There is a saying among the pilots in the vicinity that Caution. 

Maumusson draws.” The meaning of the expression is 
that the tidal current entering the pertuis of Maumusson 
is so strong as to affect vessels some distance off, and more 
than one leaving the Gironde on the ebb-tide, on losing the 
wind, have noticed this inshore set, which before long 
would have put them on the banks of Arvert. 

The northern extremity of the Lsland is called Ohassiron chassiron 
point, and is recognizable by the light-tower and a well- 
marked saddle not far from it. 

On Chassiron point is a cylindrical tower, 141 feet high, ^ Light: Lat.,4f)0 
exhibiting, 164 feet above the sea, a dioptric, i° 24' 43 " w. 

first-order light, visible 18 miles. 

A shelf, called thd Rocher d’Antioche, sometimes known as tocher d’Auti- 
Les Autiochats, extends 1^ miles RNB. from Chassiron 
point. Several of the heads uncover at low water, and a 
large iron beacon has been built near its extremity, painted Beacon. 
red^ with a house or box at the top for shipwrecked sailors. 

A semaphore stands about 220 yards westward from the Signal station, 
light tower on Chassiron point. The dwelling is painted 
greenish gray. Geographical number B. G. Q. R. 


240 


LIGHTS OF OLlfiRON ISLAND AND OHARENTE RIVER. 


From the eastern shore of the island extensive sand and 
mud banks project, which uncover at low water, 
r ht^ ^ IV ^ 45 ° extremity of the southern jetty of the canal of La 

sb'Ys" N.f long., Perrotine, 6 miles W. by N. from the mouth of the Oharente, 

1° 13' 55" W 

and NNW. from Le Chateau, is ^ fixed white catoptric, 
fourth-order light, visible 5 miles, displayed 20 feet above 
water from an iron column 17 feet high. 

Chateau In the port of Le Chateau, on the scarp of the citadel, 
iiear the gate of the dock, is a circular tower, 7 feet high, 
^‘showing fixed white, dioptric, fourth-order light, 33 feet 
above sea-level. Another round tower, 59 feet high, 2G1 
yards NW. J H. from the first, exhibits a similar light 77 
feet above the sea. Both lights are visible 8 miles, and, in 
line, lead into the harbor. 

Lights on south On the SOU them side of the entrance to the Charente 
rente.”* river are 2 fixed red catoptric lights, visible 9 miles when 

between the bearings S. 30^ E. and S. 60^ E.; one, in lati¬ 
tude 450 50' 52" N., longitude 1^ 04' 14" W., is exhibited 17 
feet above the sea, from a square white tower 20 feet high. 
The other, 536 yards SE. from the former, is exhibited 44 
feet above sea-level from a similar tower 44 feet high. 

Lights on north On the northern side of the entrance are also 2 lights. 
?entV* The northernmost one in latitude 45^ 57' 58" K., longitude 1° 
04' 27" W., is fixed green, catoptric, 25 feet'above sea-level, 
exhibited from a square white tower 37 feet high. It illumi¬ 
nates an arc of 36^, being visible when between the bearings 
of S. 470 E. and S. 83^ E. From a similar tower 55 feet high, 
656 yards SE. by E. J E. from the former, is shown a fixed 
red dioptric light, 45 feet above the sea, visible in the ESE. 
through an arc of 18^. A red ray is also thrown on the 
Port des Barques. Both lights are visible 11 miles. 

pght on Aix In the fort on the southern point of Tile d’Aix, 2| miles 

IslanQ: Lat., 4b° ? 5 

00 '36"^N. ^ong., W. f N. from Pointe de PAiguille, the western extremity of 
the northern side of entrance to the Charente, displayed 
from a circular turret 45 feet high, is a fixed white, dioptric, 
fourth-order light, 66 feet above sea-level, visible 10 miles. 

Signal station. There is also a signal-station on the west shore of Aix 
island, the geographical number of which is B. G. Q. P. 
The tower is yellow. 

distance of 7 miles north of Aix island is the Pointe 
des Minimes, the southern side of the entrance to La Rochelle. 
The coast between the latter and the mouth of the Oharente 


LA ROCHELLE LIGHTS—RE ISLAND. 


241 


is low, nowhere exceeding 32 feet in height, with the one 
exception of point Ohatelnillon, which is about 50 feet high, 
and is marked by the ruins of an old tower. From the 
base of the cliffs extend rocky shoals; in the numerous 
bays open to the sea the bottom is sandy, except under Aix 
island, where it is mud. 

At La Rochelle there are two harbor lights. t 

Oil the east quay is the Fanal d'Amont^ an octagonal 
icliite tower, 72 feet high, showing, at 79 feet above water, 

2 i fixed whitej dioptric, fourth-order light, visible 10 miles. 

SW. by W. J W., 257 yards from the Fanal d'Amont is Lat., 4 «oo9' 22 " 
the Fanal d’Aval^ a circular tower painted white, except the u'' ^ 

part toward the passage, which is red ; this tower is 44 feeK 
high, and exhibits, 40 feet above water, a fixed red, catop¬ 
tric, fourth-order light, visible 9 miles, through an arc of 
about 150 each side of the range. 

NW. 2 N., 1^ miles from the Pointe de Chef-de-Baie, the K6 island, 
northern side of La Rochelle bay, is the Pointe de Saint-Marc, 

IJ miles to the westward of which is the Pointe de Sablan- 
ceaux, the eastern extremity of Pile de R6. This island is 
low and sterile, devoid of pasture or cultivated lauds, and 
in a great many places covered with salt marshes. There 
are, however, several thriving vineyards. The total length, 

ESE. and WXW., is 14 miles; the breadth is extremely 
variable, not exceeding 3 miles, the western part being only 
connected with the remainder by an isthmus 100 yards 
wide. 

The island is situated on an extensive plateau, and from Dangers, 
point des Baleiues, the western extreme, a reef extends 2J 
miles to the northwestward, and running along the southern 
coast projects 2 miles to the southeastward from the Pointe 
de Ohanchardon, 4 miles from Baleines point, and continues, 
varying in width from oue-third to li miles, to the Pointe de 
Ohauveau, the SE. extremity of the island, from which it 
extends three-fourths of a mile to the southward and east¬ 
ward on the plateau of the same name. 

The northern side is very much cut up by bays and inlets, 
and affords several good anchorages, but the southern side 
is devoid of shelters from the heavy south or SW. seas. 

The population of the island is 18,000, the majority of the Population. 

16 N c 


242 


RE ISLAND LIGHTS. 


inhabitants being engaged in fishing, in the salt manufac¬ 
tories, and in the distilleries. 

c hauveau On tlie reef extending from Chauveau point, is a circular 
08 ^* 02 ''towei*, 75 feet high, from which is exhibited, 59 feet above 
the sea-level, fixed white light, with a red sector covering 
all rocks on the south coast of the island as far as to the 


1° 16' 31" w. 


westward of point Chanchaidon. 
light, visible 14 miles. 


It is a dioptric, third order 


Baleines point is an octagonal tower, 164 feet high 
46 " w^^" ^^'with square dwelling, showing a white revolving light, 166 
feet above sea-level, visible 24 miles. It is a dioptric light 
of the first order. Interval of revolution one-half minute. 
The eclipses are not total within 10 miles. A life-boat is 
Life-boat. stationed here. 

Signal-station. There is a semaphore 200yards SSW. from the light-tower, 
with yellow dwelling. The geographical number is B. G. 

Q. H. 

Haut Banc du Oil the shoal extending to the northwestward from Ba- 

Nord light: Lat., ^ 

46° 15' 50" N.; leiiies point, IJ miles from the light on the latter, is a cylin- 


long., 1° 35^ 

w. 


Caution. 


Pointe du Pief 
lights. 


drical tower, 96 feet high, showing a fixed white, dioptric, 
third-order light, 75 feet above sea-level, visible 14 miles. 
This is frequently called the Baleineaux light. 

The rocks extend over 1 mile beyond this light. 

On Fief point, the western side of the entrance to the 
Mer du Fief, are two leading lights. One, in latitude 46^ 
14' 02" N., longitude 1° 29' 00" W., is fixed green, 36 feet 
above sea-level, displayed from a window in the keeper’s 
dwelling. At 370 yards N. 78^ F. from it is a fixed white 
light, 28 feet above sea-level, exhibited from an iron post. 
Both lights are visible 5 miles. 

st. Martin On the Salient angle of the demi-bastion, 109 yards to the 

light: Lat., 46° -i/. ,, . 

12 ' 28 " N.; long., eastward ot the entrance to Saint-Martin harbor, is a circu¬ 
it 21' 58" W ' V./. 

lar turret, 37 feet high, showing a fixed red, fourth-order, di¬ 
optric light, 56 feet above sea-level, visible 7 miles when 
between the bearings S. 78^ 27' E. and 56^ W. through 
south. 

On the new mole of Port de la Flotte, 2 miles SE. from 
iPTo" xTiong., Saint-Martin, is a fixed ichite, dioptric, fourth-order light, 33 
feet above sea-level, visible 9 miles, exhibited from a cir¬ 
cular turret, 28 feet high. This light is only visible when 
between the bearings of S. J E. and SW. 


La Flotte 
light: Lat., 46° 





Grouiu dll Coii lAdhl from seavrard. 






A 












































if 


Ilie Jiiirmi Skite H*^ulV wilil% **»<^ 

<ai jfookA<mtib« «otttii coftfii ort^ w* ilid 

Wi^stwnrddf poii|ttOli,i««ihaicloij^ 
viitfbii? 14 miles. . 

Oo B4lAell»e«>.lH>ilitiis 140 

^ ^ " 

m^Mfa 


I'liere t» a^i^Siuir^^’ f:] 

(tiih dw«tT)«r>g. Tl^e geogm^ihlciil 


6t4U»l 

: V /'■ -V < r-^v ■' ^T* 

^ fSwilw. im#ligli4\w tJie 







«rV .if ♦* 


B. fxxih t 'a I 

r». -- *i£ ‘ *' iije <ii.^iai-ijMi^tu>ft, 10yviP^b fi ♦ 

. ^111^% ^ olj4i4^i^t'^*ai>7r.l^ *SaiA<r^»t4rHii 

.,, 

’ ’ ' o|»i^ ii%<#va sBi44.H5r«l, vtnilile 

li^ is- K. ao4 J!If5ir^mtr p.i| 

' cNc I’^fi'Kt'ici| >101111^^ 

i<x- i ^ JW. tit (»|*ir|«\ i^a M4i<“ <i*i33 iLin^ Sf m 

|«i>ov^d'-fiiiiiltleviji^'frti^ik oi|i^ 

•j J6;? jtttrt ilr^ Vjsiij® \» t 

jc*M^ ^ 4 & ntii 



4A 

XJH: 144.' ^ 
.14 m 


I ^ 









PLATEAU OF ROCHE BONNE. 


243 


The plateau of Roche Bonne, one of the most ^^aiigerons 
spots on the west coast of Prance, is a rocky shoal about 6 
miles in length KW. and SB. The change of depth is very 
abrupt on the seaward ftice, and a tremendous sea is the con¬ 
sequence, vessels often having had their decks swept while 
in 15 fathoms water. The plateau has three principal heads: 

1. La Congr(Se, which is 34 miles W. by N. from the light- LaCongr^e. 
ship, with a depth of fathoms at low water. In a heavy 

sea the rock shows among the breakers, and in smoother 
weather the kelp growing there is visible. 

2. Pierre Lev6e, 1,040 yards SB. of La Congree, which Pierre Lev6e. 
has two heads, covered with 4^ and 5 fathoms respectively. 

3. Roches Sem6es, or the SB. plateau, which is miles RochesSem6e8. 
SW. from the light ship, and which has four heads, over 

which at low water are depths of 4^, 5, 5J, and 6 fathoms 
respectively. 

Between all these spots and throughout the entire bank 
the depths vary from 11 to 22 fathoms. Their vicinity is 
marked not only by the broken sea, but by the tide-rips. 

Soundings to the eastward of the plateau show sand and Soundings, 
seaweed, and to the westward, coarse yellow sand and 
broken shells. Sometimes after a heavy sea the rocks 
themselves are temporarily covered with sand to a depth 
of nearly 1 inch. 

The rocky heads extend to the eastward of the meridian 
of the light ship, and to the northward of its parallel. On 
the old charts, the detached baidv NW. of Roche Bonne was 
called the BancheYerte; the bottom there is nearly on a 
level with the adjacent sands, and consists of a species of 
slaty stone partially decomposed. On the plateau proper 
similar specimens are sometimes brought up. But the 
heads are of gneiss (feldspar and mica) and very hard. 

The white rock visible on La Congree is more probably 
quartz than coral. 

The tidal currents run strong over the plateau of Roche Tidal currents. 
Bonne—about 2 knots at springs. Slack-water ebb does 
not take place until 2 hours after the tide has commenced 
rising, and is the only slack-water. During the remainder 
of the flood-tide the current sets S. and SSW.; at high 
water it runs SW., changing to W., NW., and N. during 
the ebb. The resultant of all these is a general current 


244 LIGHT SHIP—APPROACHINO THE PERTUIS. 

to the W. or WSW. with tlie land-breeze, and NW. with 
a southerly breeze. With the wind from W. or NW. the 
current is feeble, but the sea is very short. 

Tides, It is high water, full and change, at 5^ 30™. Springs rise 

about 14| feet. 

Pilots. Pilots frequently anchor near the light-shix) to watch for 

vessels. 

ligiTt^-^resaeh ^ light-ship, painted red, with two masts surmounted 
20 '^ skeleton-balls, is moored off the east side of the 
plateau of Eoche Bonne, in 26 fathoms water, and shows 2 
fixed white catoptric lights, 46 and 33 feet respectively 
above the water-line, and visible 10 miles. 

Pog-trumpet. During foggy weather blasts are given from a com¬ 
pressed-air trumpet, lasting about 3 seconds, at intervals of 
14 seconds. Under favorable circumstances they are heard 
6 miles. 

Caution. Mariuers are warned against placing too much depend¬ 

ence on the light ship always retaining her x^osition. 

generally ax^i^roached on the x>arallel of 
proaching t h e QXiassiron, because the greater number of vessels entering 
are bound for La Eochelle or Rochefort^ otherwise the par¬ 
allel of Baleines light may be taken. 

Soundings. Comiiig iu from seaward on the x)arallel of 03' N., a 
vessel will first find bottom in 178 fathoms water, at 120 
miles from Ghassiron. The depths then decrease raxhdly, 
and at 100 miles are only 82 fathoms, after which the sound¬ 
ings are very regular. 

Rules for find- Between 82 and 54 fathoms, the distance from Ghassiron 
theUasT^ is found iu miles by deducting 50 from the depth in metres. 

Between these limits the lines of equal soundings run par¬ 
allel to the coast. In depths of 27 to 54 fathoms the dis¬ 
tance from the coast may be found by deducting 3 from 
one-half the depth iu metres. Both of these rules will give 
a result correct to 1 to 2 miles, but the latter is only appli¬ 
cable on, or south of, the parallel of Ghassiron j farther 
north the rocks of Eoche Bonne deflect the lines of sound¬ 
ings of 25 to 27 fathoms. The rules may x)rove very useful 
in case of nearing the coast in thick weather, and with 
only ax^proximate longitude. 

Approaching In fair weather, entering the Pertuis d’Antioche is a very 

the Pertuis d „ . . , „ 

Antioche. simple piece of navigation, as the course for Ghassiron 


APPROACHINa THE PERTUIS D’ANTIOCHE. 245 

brings a vessel within the range of visibility of Roche Bonne 
light-ship. In the night, therefore, it is easier to verify po¬ 
sition than in the clay. In either case the light-vessel 
should be passed about 5 miles to the northward. 

Having passed the light-ship, steer for the opening of 
the Pertuis d’Antioche, and Baleines light will soon be 
made, and shortly after, when in 23 fathoms water, that of 
Ohassiron will be sighted. If coming from the westward 
on the parallel of the latter, shape a course to pass 3 miles 
north of it; if coming from the southward, keep well off 
shore, and while doubling it give it a berth of several miles. 

In daytime,-^! course, the light-towers will not be seen 
as far as the lights at night; but they are sometimes visi¬ 
ble 15 and 16 miles. They are distinguished from each 
other by the Baleines tower being octagonal, and having 
a tower to the northward and a semaphore to the south¬ 
ward, while that of Ohassiron presents the appearance of a 
column, and has only a semapliore west of it. Other dis¬ 
tinctive marks, when not more than 10 miles away, are the 
beacon on the Rocher d’Antioche off the one, and the Haut 
Banc du ilord light-tower oif the other. 

In thick weather the Pertuis d’Antioche may be ap- ly foggy 
proached and entered by the sole aid of the lead, giving 
the depth and nature of bottom. Ou the parallel of 
Ohassiron mud will be found first in 65 fathoms, (outside 
which the bottom is sand,) that is, 68 miles off shore. In 
45 fathoms, 37 miles from the coast, this mud will disap¬ 
pear. 

On the parallel of Baleines point, and to the northWrird 
of it, the mud bottom will first be met with, and lost again 
at about the same distances from the shore, that is, 68 and 
40 miles, but the depths will be greater, being of 68 and 50 
fathoms. 

South of Ohassiron, on the parallel of the Pertuis de 
Maumusson, muddy bottom will first be found in 55 fathoms 
50 miles off shore. Still farther to the southward it will be 
found in 49 fathoms, and south of the mouth of the Gironde 
there are no traces of it. With these figures a rough esti¬ 
mate can be made of the latitude. 

This estimate may be brought within narrow limits by 
considering the part of the current of the Gironde that sets 


246 


APPROACHINO THE PERTUIS D’ANTIOCHE. 


to the westward. It is knowu that this current, with depths 
of IGJ to 19 fathoms, is limited in the north by the parallel 
of 450 50' K If the ship be kept heading for the shore to 
depths of 16 fathoms, if the depths and nature of bottom 
be carefully examined, it will be known that she is in the 
current, and more or less south as the mud is found rare or 
otherwise; and that she is north of the Pertuis de Maumus- 
son if sand be found in 16 fathoms after crossing sand and 
mud. 

If position be If in the muddy stream of the Gironde, as shown by the. 

found to be m the 

sneamof the Gi-lead, the coursc should be shaped NNW. on reaching 16J 
fathoms, keeping the same depth, mud bottoth; when the 
lead brings up sand, the position will be very nearly latitude 
450 50' X., longitude 1^ 32' W. Steering north, then, the 
depths will be from 11 to 16 fathoms, sand, gravel, and, in a 
few spots perhaps, loam. 

Caution. The Same caution is repeated here that was given above, 

that is, to beware the inshore set of the tide off the Pertuis 
de Maumussom 

If not drifted about, after making 12 miles on the north 
course, 9^ fathoms will be found, bottom of very tine yel¬ 
lowish-gray sand, with small transparent particles of quartz. 
Three and a half miles farther on the depths will suddenly 
increase, the bottom will be of yellow sand, less hue than 
the preceding; the ship is then at the entrance to the Per¬ 
tuis d’Antioche, and may head in east and E. by S. 

If north of Approachiiig the coast, if sand should be found in 16J 
roSir ^ ^ fathoms, which would indicate a position north of the muddy 

stream, it would be advisable to run south to establish the 
position with certainty, and then work north as directed 
above. The 16-fathom line making a slight angle with the. 
meridian, an error of 5 miles in the estimated point of leav¬ 
ing the stream would make but little difference as to the 
point of striking the bar of the pertuis. 

Classification The bottoiu iu the entrance, off tlie bar of the pertuis, 
trance. 'may bc divided into four distinct zones: 1. The southern 

portion, near the rocks of the coast, and running up to the 
parallel of the Antiochats, is formed of very fine sand, 
mixed with transparent grains of quartz. 2. The central 
part of the bar is composed of yello^v sand, the grains irreg¬ 
ular in shape, and about 1 millimetre in diameter, with a 


CURRENTS OFF THE PERTUIS. 


247 


little broken shell. 3. The portion near the He de is 
also very hue sand, but rather more slaty. 4. In the fosse 
there is sand, rock, and stone bottom, with greater depths 
than elsewhere. 

If by some error the meridian of 1^ 36' W. were followed cautiou. 
to the northward instead of tliat of 32' W., the mistake 
would be shown by having IGJ fathoms for several miles, 
and also by the bottom changing first to mixed colored sand, 
and then to very fine gray, slaty sand. The ship would 
then be to the northward of the entrance, and should steer 
ESE. for it. Such a mistake would not be likely to be made, 
as it could only result from an error of 10 miles in the lati¬ 
tude, or 3J fathoms in the soundings. 

If a vessel were drifted inshore by the tide, or if a merid- Caution, 
ian were followed too close in, a warning would be had in 
the depths diminishing and the bottom becoming rocky. 

The ship’s head should then be laid jS \Y. to skirt the Pla¬ 
teau des Chardonnieres. 

It will not do to place too much dependence on the bot. Caution, 
tom shown by any one cast of the lead, unless rock be found. 

A mean of several may be relied upon. 

Approaching this portion of the coast of France, a ship in the 

will be influenced not merely by the general northerly cur¬ 
rent, but also by tidal currents. In the offing between the 
parallels of the Gironde and the Barges d’Olonnes, they 
change with the sun, or in the direction of the hands of a 
watch, round the entire compass. At low water, 20 miles 
off shore, the flood sets north j abreast the entrance to the 
pertuis, ENE. j and near the shore, north. This current is 
feeble off shore, but increases in strength on approaching. 

At high water the current sets south, with but little strength. 

The ebb there sets SSW., and, increasing in strength, SW. 
in the distance, and WNW. off the entrances. Advantage 
may be taken of these differences of direction in beating in 
or out. 

Having passed the bar at the entrance to the Pertuis Pertuis d’An 
d’Antioche, and reached the deeper water inside, if the des- 
tination be La Eochelle or Pallice anchorage, steer E. J S., 
having Chauveau light one point off the port bow. Hun on 
this course until that light comes in line with Pointe de Sa- 
blanceaux beyond, N. 22^ E., and steer N. 59^ E., for La 


248 


PERTUIS D’ANTIOCHE. 


Eochelle. The last course leads to the plateau of Lavardin, 
which is steep to. If bound to the northward, starboard 
the helm when Lavardin tower and the mill of La Eepentie 
are in line; if bound to La Eochelle, keep the lower of the 
two harbor-lights a little open to the southward of the 
higher. 

Soundiugs. While in the Pertuis d’Antioche, the soundings will 
show if a ship be in good position; the sand near the outer 
bar will change to mud aud loam, while the depths will in¬ 
crease from 11 to 22 fathoms. In clear weather the beacon 
oij the Eocher d’Antioche will be seen, and should be passed 
2 J miles to starboard. 

Atuigbt. jg easier to pilot through the Pertuis d’Antioche at 

night than in the day-time, because not only are the lights 
distinguished more easily than their towers, but the red 
ray of Chauveau light will warn a vessel if too close to the 
rocks near the He de Ee. After passing to the eastward of 
the meridian of Ohassiron, a vessel should keep to the north¬ 
ward of the alignment of the red light on the north bank of 
the Oharente, and the icliite one of Aix island. When La 
Eochelle bears N. 59^ E., its red and ichite harbor lights will 
be in line, leading into the harbor. 

Tidal currents. The Current of the flood-tide sets more strongly along the 
coast of Oleron island, and that of the ebb near Ee island. 
In mid-channel, the turn of the tide is one hour after low 
water, aud half an hour after high water. The flood runs 
IJ knots an hour, and the ebb knots. 

Having arrived oft* the pertuis by the directions given for 
thick weather, keep near the 11-fathom line, which is the 
northern boundary of the fosse. A steamer can easily do 
this by making diagonal courses between 9 aud 12 fathoms. 
When the 11-fathom line of soundings trends to the north¬ 
ward, if there be no breaking away of the fog, anchor. 

Beating in. day-time, if there be any swell, a vessel should tack 

in 8 fathoms on the Ee island side, or when Lavardin tower, 
painted with Mach and ivhite bands, is well open of Pointe 
Saiiite-Marie, or between it and Chauveau light-tower, very 
much nearer to the latter than to the former. At night, 
while to the westward of the meridian of Ohassiron, keep 
to the southward of the red ray of Chauveau ; after passing 
Chas-siron, the limit of the southern boards is the alignment 



BASQUES ROADS. 


249 


of the red light on the north bank of the Charente, and the 
ichite one of Aix island, making l.J-mile boards to the north- 
Avard of it. When La Rochelle harbor lights come in one, 
work up on the alignment, always keeping both lights visible. 

The plateau of Le Clone, in the middle of the i)ertuis, Le clone bank, 
never breaks, but the sea is very high on it in SW. gales. 

Vessels anchoring on it, even in good weather, might lose 
their anchors, the bottom being of hard rock. The western 
limit of Le Clone is given by Chauveau light-tower in 
line with Pointe du Plomb beyond; the eastern, by Lavardin 
tower just on with Pointe du Plomb; the southern by Pointe 
du Parc of Aix island (NW. point) in line with the tower 
of Fouras beyond'. As the bank is only 21 miles SSW. 
from Chauveau, ships can avoid anchoring on it by bear¬ 
ings and distance of the latter. There is a depth of 8J 
fathoms there at low water. The centre is on the align¬ 
ment of La Rochelle harbor lights. 

The Rade des Basques being open to the westward, is not ^ ®® 

a good anchorage for small vessels, because of the heavy 
swell that sometimes sets in. 

To reach the Basques roads, as soon as Chassiron light Directions, 
bears south, bring the tower of Fouras over the centre of 
Aix island, S. 59^ E., and keep them so until Lavardin 
tower is two-thirds way from point Saint-Marc to point 
Sablanceaux, or fort Boyard (on La Longe le Boyard bank) 
bearing S. 10^30' E., 14° to the eastward of Perrotine light, 
a little open to the eastward of the Chateau, on lie island. 

On this cross-bearing there is anchorage in 8 fathoms, soft 
mud, good holding-ground. 

At night other ranges are used for making the Basques At night, 
roads. When Chassiron light.bears south, keep a little 
north of the alignment of the red light on the northern 
bank of the Charente and Aix island light, steering S. 59^ 

E., and come-to when Perrotine light bears S. W., and 
Chauveau light N. 18° W. 

In foggy weather the Basques roads are reached ^® ^ ^ ^ 

making diagonal stretches across the 11-fathom line on 
the southern border of the fosse. The time to anchor is 
when that line trends off to the northward. 

The limits of the Basques roads are as follows: In the Beatingin. 
north, the Roche du Sud; in the east, the 5-fathom line, the 


250 


AIX ISLAND ROADS. 


limit of the beating-room for deep-water ships, is with Fort 
Boyard bearing south ; the SW. side of the plateaii is given 
by the church-steeple of Marennes, qiidway between Aix 
island light-tower and Fort Boyard; and the SSW. limit 
(5^ fathoms) by File Madame open to the southward of Aix 
island. 

Farther to the southward, near OMron island, depths of 
5J fathoms and over are found with the beacon on the 
Eocher d’Antioche bearing to the westward of W. by until 
the red light on the north bank of the Charente comes in 
line with Aix island light, which limits the soundings of 5J 
fathoms off La Longe le Boyard. Farther to the SE. bring 
Moese steeple over Piedemont point. 

Beating in at Beat up to the aiichorage at night by tacking on each 
side of the alignment of Aix island light and the red one on 
the north side of the Charente until Ohassiron light bears W. 
and Chauveau light N., when keep to the northward of the 
alignment. The stretches should not extend much to the 
southward of the alignment at any time. 

Bade de I’lie The Aix Koads are the continuation to the southward of 

[’Aix, 

the Eade des Basques. Men-of-war ordinarily anchor here 
when bound for Eochefort or when preparing for sea. It 
also offers a good shelter and excellent holding-ground for 
vessels in bad weather. 

Directions. To make this anchorage during the day, steer S. 59^ E. 

for Fouras over the centre of Aix island, from the time that 
Chassirou bears S. When Fort Boyard comes in line with 
the steeple of Marennes, S. 22^ E., port the helm and steer 
S. 48^ P]., with Aix island three fourths point off the port 
bow. When the ruins on Chatelaillon point open from point 
Coudepont, the eastern extremity of Aix island, let go in 8 
to 10 fathoms water. If a less depth be desired, keep on to 
the mooring-buoys, where 4J fathoms will be found, mud 
bottom. 

At night. At night come in on the alignment of Aix island light and 
the red light on the north bank of the Charente^ until Per- 
rotine light passes behind, and is masked by. Fort Boyard; 
then steer S. 30^ E. for 1 mile, and anchor in 8J fathoms, 
mud bottom, with Aix island light bearing II. 70° E., and 
the red and green lights on the north bank of the Charente 
in line. 


SAUMONARS ROADS. 


251 


Near tlie Aix island side of the roads the shoals are steep- 
to, but the beacon of Tridoux, on the WSVV. edge of the reef, 
should not be approached nearer than COO yards> JMoese 
steeple over the fort on Madame island gives the SJ-fathoin 
line to the southward of Poiiite Catherine, the southern ex¬ 
treme of the island. On the southern border of the an¬ 
chorage the 5.J-fathom line is given by Fort Boyard in line 
with Saint-Denis steeple beyond, and also by the large 
windmill of Fouras on with the angle of the fortifications of 
Fouras. 

Soundings of 16J feet are limited in the S. by Moese 
steeple barely open to the southward of Piedemont; in the 
W. by the hlaclc iron beacon of Jamblet (350 yards from the 
extremity of the reef off the NW. point of Aix island) well 
clear of Aix island; and in the SB. by Perrotine light- 
tower on with Saint-Pierre steeple. 

In the 5 fathom depths is a rock, covered with 4J fathoms, 
which should be avoided in anchoring. Its marks are 
Fouras windmill open from Fouras point, the lanterne of 
La Rochelle touching the outer rampart on Aix island, and 
Moese open to the southward of Piedemont point. 

The bank called La Longe le Boyard is a sandy shoal Boyard* 

the Pointe des Saumonars, extending 5J miles NW. and 
SB. The soundings on it vary from 1 to 3 fathoms, but be¬ 
tween it and 014ron island there is a channel with a least 
depth of 4 fathoms; on the eastern border is Fort Boyard, a 
useful landmark. 

On the SB. end of La Longe bank is the Roche du SB., a Roche du se. 
plateau, the shoalest spots of which are 2 fathoms under 
water. The eastern extremity of the shoal is given by Aix 
island flag staff open to the westward of the light. 

The northern part of the deeper water between La Longe 
and Oleron island, is called the Rade des Saumonars, and 
the part SB. of the Pointe des Saumonars, the Rade des 
Trousses. 

To enter the Saumonars roadstead from the Pertuis Rade des sau- 

monars. 

d’Antioche with 4J fathoms at low water, steer S. 5*^ W. for Directions, 
the steeple of Saint-Pierre on with a cluster of trees. To 
beat in, keep nearer to the shore of Oleron island than to 
the bank. The 2J-fathom shoals near the former are 


252 


TKOUSSES ROADS—CHARENTE RIVE It. 


avoided by keeping Moese steeple a little open of the low 
point of Sauinonars. 

R a d e d e 8 Two cbauiiels lead from Aix island anchorage to the Bade 

Tiousses. Troiisses ; both have fathoms at low water, but the 

eastern is the more direct, and the one generally used. 

Directions. To follow the channel, after leaving Aix island roadstead 
bring the flag-staff on that island exactly behind the light- 
tower, in line astern, and keep it so, steering S. 3° W., un¬ 
til the house on Fouras heights bears N. 82^ E., in line with 
the southern angle of the fortifications. Then port the 
helm and head for the mooring-buoys, about W. IST. 

With ebb-tide. If the ebb-tide be making strong, steer S. 80^ W. after 
completing the first course, (S. 3^ W.,) until the jS’VV. moor¬ 
ing-buoy passes in line with Saumonars point, when head 
up for it. 

Anchorage. The best auchorage is near the mooring-buoys, and SE. 

of them, in GJ fathoms water, sand and mud. Saumonars 
point gives a lee from the westerly swell, and the bank of 
La Longe le Boyard breaks the NW. sea. 

Currents. The Currents are feeble, and both flood and ebb are felt 
here half an hour before they are in the Aix roads. 

.(J^ompass 8ta- The four mooriug-buoys may be used for compass-buoys, 
having the steeples of Marennes and Sainte-Marie for bear¬ 
ings. 

Charente river. The river Chareiite rises in Haute Yienne, and, after a 
circuitous course, passes into Charente Inf(§rieure, and falls 
into the SE. angle of the Pertuis d’Antioche. Its principal 
tributaries are the Tardoire, Touvres, Ne Seugne, Antoine, 
and Boutonue. Its current is rapid, and it frequently over¬ 
flows its banks. The total length of the river is about 200 
miles, and it is navigable for small craft for 60 miles, to 
Montignac. A little above Eochefort two canals, the Brou- 
age and Oharas, lead off*, the one from the left and the 
other from the right bank, to drain the salt marshes round 
the city, which were a fruitful source of disease to the 
whole district. 

Tides. The question of tides is of the greatest importance in 

the navigation of the Charente, as upon them depends en¬ 
tirely the communication between Eochefort and the sea. 
Springs sometimes rise 20^ feet, at Eochefort j ordinary 
springs rise 17 feet, and neaps 13 feet. 


CIIARENTE RIVER—TIDES. 


253 


During the highest springs, the current at Martronx (I J 
miles below Rochefort) runs knots at half-ebb, and 3| 
at half-flood. Above and below that pointthe strength is less. 
At nearly high water, when vessels begin to ascend the 
river, the mean velocity of the flood is about 2 knots. 

It is slack water of either tide for 30 minutes at the month 
of the river, and for 15 minutes at Martroux, at full and 
change. The ebb-tide commences to make along the banks 
10 minutes before it does in mid-stream. It sometimes hap¬ 
pens that the flood-tide does not make on the surface at all, 
and vessels at anchor will tail up-stream, while their boats 
will be riding to the ebb. 

Between Rochefort and Aix island the diflerences in 
height of high water are but small under ordinary circum¬ 
stances. At the full and change the flood-tide is propa¬ 
gated with a level surface. The time of greatest superele¬ 
vation of the upper waters is about GO hours before the first 
and third quarters of the moon. 

When there is a freshet in the river the water at Roche¬ 
fort is fresh at high tide, and several inches above the level 
at the entrance. The latter also occurs when a high wind 
blows into the funnel of the mouth; but generally no higher 
water can be counted on at Rochefort than that at Aix 
island, given for every day in the Annuaire des Marees. 

The figures in the latter are liable to some correction, due 
to the influence of wind and barometric pressure/ These 
two causes combined may make a difference of 19 inches 
additive. 

A knowledge of the hour of high water at Rochefort may 
be as important as the height. It is high water, full and 
change, at 4^ 6"*. To find the time on any day, enter the 
following table, which gives for each month and correspond¬ 
ing to the moon’s parallax on the second day previous to 
the one in question, the number of minutes to be added to 
the time of high water at Aix island, given for every day 
in the Annuaire des Marees. 


Tidal currents* 


High water. 


Caution. 


254 


CHARENTE RIVER—TIDES—DIRECTIONS. 


Table for the interval of j)ropagation of flood-tide heticeen Aix island and 
Rochefort. 


Months. 

^ Parallax. 

54' 

55' 

56' 

57' 

58' 

59' 

60' 

61' 

Winter: 

m. 

m. 

m. 

m. 

m. 

m. 

m. 

m. 

December. 

10 

11 

12 

14 

17 

21 

25 

29 

January, November. 

14 

15 

16 

18 

22 

25 

29 

33 

Eebi uaVy, October. 

20 

21 

22 

24 

27 

30 

34 

38 

March, September. 

24 

25 

26 

28 

31 

35 

39 

43 

Summer: 









April, August.. 

22 

23 

24 

26 

29 

33 

37 

41 

May, July. 

19 

20 

21 

23 

26 

30 

34 

38 

June. 

17 

18 

19 

21 

24 

28 

32 

36 


The figures are for the 15th of each fnonth. For other days 
interpolate from the table, and to the result, for morning 
tides, add 3 minutes during winter-months, and subtract 3 
minutes during summer-months j for evening tides, vice 
versa. 

Low water. AYitli the moon quartering, the level of low water at 
Eochefort is below that of Aix island, while at the full and 
change the inverse is the case. In winter, during a freshet, 
it may be as much as feet higher at Eochefort than at 
Aix island. 

Bar. On the outer bar of the river abreast of Fouras is a depth, 

at low water, of only 2 feet. But the bottom is such soft 
mud that vessels in tow have dragged through feet of it; 
so thatihe depth may be considered practically 4 feet. 

Olf fort Lupin is another muddy sill, with the same depth 
of water on it; but the bottom here is firmer, and the depth 
should only be called 3J feet. 

Still farther up, at Oharas, the practical depth is only 2^ 
feet. 

Entering. As all these bars must be passed in one tide, the entrance 
should be so timed as to be on the latter at high water. 

Directions for It would be advisable to trim ship to reduce the draught 
cifaTeJte? ^^®as luuch as possible on approaching the mouth of the river. 

The best time to leave Aix island anchorage is between 1 
and hours before high water, and the height that it will 
attain is found by adding If feet to the height observed IJ 
hours, and IJ feet to that observed IJ hours, before high 
water. 

Caution, The Speed of a vessel should not exceed 6 knots, as the 






















CHARENTE RIVER—DIRECTIONS. 


255 


current of the tide would increase it to 8, and a higher rate 
would not be safe in so tortuous a channel. 

Leaving the Aix roads shape a course S. 65*^ E. to the 
right of Pouras, keeping the two light-towers on the north 
bank in line. When abreast the redoubt of TAiguille, port 
the helm and steer SS. for the two light-towers in line on 
the south bank, to the eastward of the Port des Barques, 
until abreast the beacon off the latter, anapproachto which 
is indicated at night by a red ray from the upper light on the 
N. bank. Then starboard gently and bring the beacon grad¬ 
ually in line astern with the south end of Pile Madame.* 

After passing the lower light on the left bank (southern 
bank) starboard the helm a little, and cross theriv'er diago¬ 
nally, until within 220 yards of the grassy right bank, keep¬ 
ing at this distance from it until abreast fort Lupin, when 
cross the river again diagonally, and follow the left bank at 
a distance of 165 yards until above the beacon of Par- 
pagnole. Then port the helm a very little off the Pointe de 
la Sabli^re and once more cross over very obliquely to the 
right bank, heading for the farm of Oharas, and keep 175 
yards from the grass while rounding the “pointe sans fin,’^ 
or about two-6fths the width of the river from the right bank. 

In this bend there will be found a strong set toward the 
northeast bank, and it is better to lose a few inches of depth 
near the middle of the river than run the risk of going on 
the stony beach at Oharas or the mud above. 

From abreast the wharves on the right bank at Yerge- 
roux, keep in raid-stream until opposite the mill of La Prde 
on the eastern bank and the channel of Grandes Prises on 
the western, and keep 45 to 55 yards from the former. 
From Soubise keep in mid-stream to Martroux, where the 
rocks of I’Avant Garde are met, when skirt the right bank 
very close, particularly abreast the mouth of the canal 820 
yards above the road from Rochefort to Royan. The chan¬ 
nel here is only 27 yards wide and is in the alignment of 

* A red buoy, surmounted by a circular staff with a pyramid, and 
bearing the words “Les Palles” in white letters, will be passed to, star- 
b >ard in entering the channel. The buoy is on the following bearings : 
M )ese steeple in line with the two chimneys of the Piedemont guard¬ 
house; the NW. part of fort d’Enet well open from the SE. point of Le 
Chatelaillon. 


Caution. 



256 


EOCHEFORT. 


two cliimneys in Martroux. Above this point keep in mid¬ 
stream up to the city. 

iDescendingthe Descending the river must be done on the last of the 
flood, so as to reach the bars at high water.* 

Between the rocks of I’Avant Garde, at Martroux, and the 
elbow of Charas, the speed should be about 6 or 7 knots. 
Below Oharas, a vessel towed, or a side-wheel steamer, may 
go at full speed, but a propeller should not if her keel be in 
the mud. 

Eochefort har- Eochefort harbor is capacious and deep enough for the 
largest vessels; it is divided into two parts, for men-of-war 
and merchantmen respectively. 

Port Miiitaire. The former, called the Port Militaire^ begins at the chan¬ 
nel of the powder-magazine. It has docks large enough 
for any vessel that can ascend the river. The sill of the new 
one is 3 feet 10 inches below the zero of Aix island. The 
dock yard, especially when overcrowded, forms a certain im¬ 
pediment to the free entry and exit of vessels. The diffi¬ 
culty was formerly considerable, but beneficial improvements 
were effected in regard to these matters by a set of regula¬ 
tions that came in force in October, 1872. Passes are no 
longer required, and the sea-pilots can convey inward-bound 
vessels to their destination, pilots in charge of outward- 
bound vessels conducting them through the dock-yard, and 
being relieved generally at Soubise by the sea-pilots. 

PortMarchand. The Port Marclmiid is above the man-of-war anchorage. 

In it vessels anchor along the right bank, from the channel 
of the dock to above the cabane carree. 

City of Koche- Eochefort, in the department of Gharente-Infbrieure, is 
situated on the right bank of the Oharente, 10 miles from 
its mouth, partly on a hill and partly on a marshy plain. In 
form it is semicircular, and inclosed, on the land side, by 
ramparts. It is altogether modern. The streets are broad 
and regular, many of them planted with rows of trees, and 
the houses, though low, are in general very handsome. The 
most conspicuous edifice is the large naval hospital on an 
eminence outside the town. There is railway communi¬ 
cation with Paris by Poictiers, also with La Eochelle. 

* The Direction dn Port says: “ A large vessel should depart when the • 
tide has reached a height of 1 metre less than the ship’s draught.” 






EOCHEFORT TO TONNAY CHARENTE. 


257 


Rochefort derives its chief importance from its naval ar- ludustries. 
serial^ which is considered the third of its kind in France. 

Dock yards, sail-lotts, rope-walks, biscuit-manufactories, 
storehouses, naval schools, and other establishments are to 
be seen. Ship building is one of the principal industries. 

There are also sugar and Vinegar works. 

The population of Rochefort is about 29,000. Population. 

The exports from Rochefort lately have been insignificant Commerce, 
in the foreign trade. This arises not from deficiency in com¬ 
mercial activity, but from foreign imports, and from exports 
for French consumption. Many vessels arrive with cargoes 
of coal and other merchandise, but generally leave in bal¬ 
last, either to load brandies at Touuay-Chareute or iron-ore 
at Bilbao. 

Brokerage on a vessel in ballast, outward, 6§ centimes Expenses, 
per ton of cargo j if loaded in and out, 5 centimes per ton. 

Port dues, 1^ francs, and quarantine dues 10 centimes, per 
ton. River charges about 2J centimes per ton ; loaded, 12J 
centimes per ton. In case men are required to haul the 
vessel through the dock-yard they are paid 2 francs each. 

The navigation of the Charente above Rochefort is very m 

simple. In case of head winds vessels club up or down with Tonnay-cba- 

the tide. 

Near the point of the Grand Fret there is a rocky shoal, caution, 
with 2J fathoms, in mid-stream. The anchor should be 
hov^e off the ground on approaching it, or the flukes will 
catch. 

Above that is a ledge, called the Banche de Toyaux, near BanchedeXoy- 
the Maisonnette, with 11| feet on it. To avoid it, hug the^“^' 
left bank, which is concave there. 

Near the lower part of the anchorage of Tonuay-Chareute 
is another shoal, before reaching which, while going up with 
the flood-tide, some more chain should be hove in. 

The anchorage of Tonnay-Oharente is comprised between ^Anchorage of 
two stakes, one below the suspension bridge and the other rente, 
below the promenade. The deepest part is between the 
custom-house barracks and the watch-tower. Vessels draw¬ 
ing 16J feet will remain afloat off Tonnay-Oharente. Those 
drawing 19J anchor in a hole off the promenade. 

At low tide the water here is fresh and pure. 

The foreign trade of Tonnay-Oharente is principally Eng- commerce. 

17 N o 


258 


CHAUVEAU POINT. 


lisb, and has progressed enormously since 1864, the increase 
in tonnage of British ships alone, between that year and 
1874, being from 26,000 to 76,000 tons. It is of the simplest 
character, consisting virtually of the import of coals and 
the export of brandies, and is conducted in a very quiet 
manner under perfect organization. The value of brandy 
exported is $16,800,000 per annum. 

Martraisbay. Martrais bay, on the south side of Ee island, formerly 
communicated with the Mer du Fief on the north side. It 
is open between the reefs extending from points Oouarde 
and Ohanchardon. Only small vessels can enter, the depth 
being 6J feet. 

Pointe de During the day-time the 54-fiithom line, off Ohauveau 
point, is given by the tower of Lavardin, open 4^ to the 
right of the church-steeple of Laleu. At night the same is 
shown by the white light of La Eochelle being hidden be¬ 
hind the tower on the south side of entrance to the harbor. 
The 2f fathom line is shown in the day by the tower of 
Lavardin well on with point Ghef-de-Baie, and at night by 
the re-appearance of the white light of La Eochelle. 

Eock8. The limits of the rocks of the Plateau de Chauveau is 

given by the light-tower on their edge and the beacon of 
Chauveau, one-half mile west of it. Three hundred yards 
to the ENE. of the light is the beacon of Greffe, 200 yards 
NW. of the outer rocks. 

To reach the Vessels seeking shelter during the day under the lee of 
PaUice anchor- island, Icavc the course N. 59^ E. for La Eochelle as 
soon as Lavardin tower and the mill of La Eepentie are in 
one, steering then K 29^ E. for them until one-half mile 
from the former; then the course is N., Sablanceaux point 
1 point off the port bow, passing 400 yards from Lavardin 
tower, until the latter is in line astern with Fort Boyard on 
La Longe le Boyard, which range will take the vessel be¬ 
yond Sablanceaux. The anchor may be let go as soon as 
Eichelieu tower is shut in by Chef-de-Baie point, the shelter 
being perfect from the westerly swell. 

Approaching In the day-time having brought the city of La Eochelle 

La Rochelle. ^ j EichelicU iS 

made in front of the city. Bring this little tower on the 
same bearing, in line with the larger one on the north side 



outeh anchorage of la rochelle. 


250 


of entrance to the inner harbor. This range will lead over 
a 3-fathoin bar between Lavardin bank and PAinoiir rock. 

The outer anchorage is reached when Kepentie point is Outer anciior- 
shut in by Saint-Marc point. There is excellent holding- 
ground, mud and clay, in 18 and 20 feet of water on the 
following cross-bearings: Richelieu tower on with Saint- 
Nicolas church, the southeasternrnost of the churches of 
La Rochelle; the gable of the abbey of Saint-Laurent over 
the middle of the isthmus of Sablanceaux; and Lavardin 
tower in line with the steeple of Sainte Marie on R6 island. 

A vessel may anchor on the alignment of Saint-Laurent 
abbey with the ruins of the little redoubt on Sablanceaux 
isthmus, while between the ranges of Richelieu tower in 
line with the tower on the south side of entrance to the port 
of La Rochelle, and Lavardin tower in line with Chauveau 
light. Near the latter range the shelter is the best, being 
under the lee of the highest parts of the plateau of Lavar¬ 
din. 

In one respect the anchorage is poor; in rough weather, 
though there is but little danger of dragging, ships roll 
very heavil^^ 

Some of the pilots take vessels nearer to Lavardin ; but 
when that plateau breaks in bad weather, the berth is not 
as good as that on the ranges given above. 

Approaching at night, as soon as the two harbor lights of At night. 

La Rochelle are made in line, N. 59^ E. from the pertuis, 
steer for them until Chauveau light bears N. 69° W., when 
Aiguillon light will suddenly be screened by point Saint- 
Marc. Then put the helm to starboard, and steer N. 5° E. 
to sight Aiguillon light again. The white light of La Ro¬ 
chelle will be hidden by the tower on the south side of the • 
entrance to the port; when it emerges again is the time to 
anchor. 

The bearings would be Chauveau light bearing N. 88° W., 

Aiguillon light N. 7° E., and the white light of La Rochelle 
N. 67® E. The bottom is mud at 3J fathoms. 

Vessels beating up have nothing to fear at high water off Beating up. ' 
La Rochelle bay except the projecting rocks off Saint-Marc 
point, and the point of Chef-de-Baie. The former are indi¬ 
cated by the beacon of the same name 55 yards from their 


f 


260 


LAVARDIN BANK—LA ROCHELLE ROADS. 


extremity. Chef de-Baie point should not be approached 
nearer than 300 yards. 

Off Miuimes point the edge of the IJ-fathom shoals is 
with Saint-Marc beacon just open of the land. Large ves¬ 
sels can sometimes continue beating up to Richelieu tower, 
but after Miuimes point has shut in Roux point, they should 
not come to the southward of the alignment of the harbor- 
lights of La Rochelle. 

2|-fathom line in the SW. part of the xdateau of La- 
vardin is given by the gable of Saint-Laurent Abbey well 
oi)en to the right of Rivedoux steeple. The 2|-fathom line 
off the Roche d’Amour is on the same range. 

Lavardin plateau extends in the SE. to the alignment of 
Richelieu tower and that on the south side of the port en¬ 
trance. The former in line with that on the north side of 
the entrance leads through in mid-channel between Lavar¬ 
din and Amour banks. The 2J-fathom lines on the eastern 
edge of Lavardin and the western of Amour have Aiguillon 
light a little open to the westward of Saint-Marc point. 

The Plateau du Lavardin frequently breaks, and the 
Roche d’Amour rarely. 

Eoche du Sud. The Roche du Sud has 3^ fathoms on it at low water, and 
is to the southward and outside of Lavardin. Its bearings 
are: Ohauveau light N. 43^ W. in line with a large house 
on Re island; Richelieu tower in line with the church of 
Notre Dame de la Rochelle, which is seen between the cathe¬ 
dral and the lanterne. Lavardin tower on with Aiguillon 
light leads in clear to the SW. and W., and Richelieu 
tower on with Saint-Jean church in La Rochelle, clear to 
the N W. The mill of Pont la Pierre over Ch4 point leads 
* south of it. The rock seldom breaks. 

Lfi Eocheiie Vcssels drawing 13 feet can anchor in the roads of La 
Rochelle with Saint-Laurent abbey just outside and touch¬ 
ing Sablanceaux point. Farther to the eastward the depths 
diminish and mud bottom is changed to sand. 
p^Entering the Vesscls intending to enter the port have to wait for the 
tide to serve, as the bar to be passed has only 2 feet on it 
at low water. This bar is not in the channel, inside the 
Digue du Cardinal, but on the bank’ outside. The depth of 
water is indicated by balls at the entrance of the basin, but 


LA ROCHELLE. 


261 


unless the weather be very clear it will be hard to make 
out the signal even with a glass. 

It is high water, fall and change, at 3^ 31"^; mean spring- Tides, 
rise 17 feet, neap 13 feet; mean neap range, 9 feet. The 
time of high water is practically the same as at Aix island, 
given in the Anniiaire des Marees, as are also the heights 
to within 1 inch. 

The two light-towers in line N. oO® E. lead up the narrow Directions, 
channel, and being painted one red and one white are easily 
distinguished. The tower of Richelieu is painted black and 
ichiiCy and the height of water can be approximately ob¬ 
tained by measuring with the eye how much of the black 
or white paint is above water.* 

Having passed the lozenge-shaped beacon on the mole on 
the starboard hand, the speed should be decreased whether 
bound for the basin or for the old port between the two 
large towers. In the former case check the way of the ship 
by the mooring-buoy in front of the basin, and wait there 
until the gates open. 

In heavy westerly weather the gates are not opened, in 
which case a vessel, if her draught will admit of it, had 
better enter the inner harbor. 

The city of La Rochelle is encircled by fortifications, and city of LaEo- 

chello 

entered 'by seven gates. Its broad, straight streets are 
lined with buildings, which, though not lofty, are generally 
good. The most of the town is built round the inner har¬ 
bor, which is bordered with an elegant quay, shaded by 
rows of trees. The town hall is a fine building in the re¬ 
naissance style of the time of Francis I; the cathedral, ex¬ 
change, court-house, and public library are among the orna¬ 
ments of the town. Many of the squares are exceedingly , 
beautiful. 

La Rochelle contains several schools, hospitals, a botani¬ 
cal garden, mint, arsenals, &c. 

Ship building is extensively carried on, and the manufac- industries, 
tories of the place include potteries, glass-works, sugar-re¬ 
fineries, and cotton factories. 

There are two wet-docks in La Rochelle, both completely Docks, 
quayed on three sides. The gates are opened one-half 

* The white commeucos at a height of 16 feet, aud the black at 22 , 
from the bottom. 



202 


LA EOCHELLE. 


Yieux port. 


Gridiron. 


Population. 

Commerce. 


Exports. 


Imports. 


hour before, and closed one-fourth hour after high water, 
during daylight, the fact being announced by the national 
ensign hoisted at the outer signal-staff. 

The new dock is the larger, and is generally used for the 
reception and discharge of foreign cargoes. The width of 
the gate is 54 feet, and any vessel that can reach it can en¬ 
ter, the sill being 8 inches below the outer bar. One side is 
close to the railway station, and cars are run to the quay, 
so that vessels with cargo in bulk can at once discharge 
into them. 

The old dock is built on the south side of the vieux port, 
and can only take vessels drawing 5J feet less than those 
entering the new one. The width of the gate is 38f feet. 
This dock is generall^^ used for vessels making a long stay 
in port. > 

The inner harbor has 5 feet, but the mud at the entrance 
dries 3 feet at low water. 

Ill it is a gridiron that can be used free of charge, the 
extremities of which are marked by beacons. The blocks 
of the SW. end are higher than the others, so that only one 
end of a ship may possibly be water-borne by the rising 
tide. 

The population of La Rochelle is about 20,000. 

The trade of La Rochelle has of late been augmenting 
considerably, so much so that the dock accommodation is 
insufficient. In 1872 the tonnage of foreign shipping en¬ 
tered was 52,000, and that of the coasting trade 103,000. 

The imports and exports are more miscellaneous here 
than in any other ports is the vicinity. 

The principal exports are corn, brandy, wine, firewood, 
salt, and others. 

Coal preponderates greatly over other imports. There is 
a special trade in that article with Cardiff, partly conducted 
by French steamers ; the vessels discharge at La Rochelle, 
and go in ballast to Bilbao and other ports, returning with 
iron-ore, which is sent inland to be smelted for the supply 
of French manufactories. Besides these two articles there 
is considerable importation of fish, iron rails, tar, pitch, 
wood, (for building purposes,) &c. * 



AiaUILLON LIGHT. 


2C3 


Dues and charges on a vessel of 241 tons register, cargo Expenses. 


of coals in and ballast out: 

Francs. Centimes. 

Pilotage in (144 feet). 113 OO 

P ilotage out feet). 43 00 

Aesistance-boat, four men. 15 00 

Declaration. 12 oO 

Board of health. 24 10 

Passport. 2 10 

Brokerage (50c. per ton of cargo). 196 40 

72 cartloads ballast (88 tons) .. 108 00 


513 60 

Labor costs 3 to 3J francs per day. 

From Saint Marc point the coast runs to the northward 
and eastward, and, as far as Saint-Clement point, is com- Ejcheiie. 
posed of steep cliffs, with an occasional short beach. The 
only large one of these is that lining Plomb bay. From the 
Pointe du Plomb flat rocks extend some distance, but can be 
avoided, being indicated by the beacon of Le Moine. Saint- 
Marc point should never be shut in by La Repen tie in 
beating. From the Pointe du Plomb the shore trends off 
more to the eastward, and rounding again to the westward 
and southward, forms the shallow bay of Aiguillon, into 
which fall the rivers Lu 9 on and Marans. The western side 
of the entrance to this bay is the point of the same name, 
a long tongue of sand projecting 1J miles SE. The eastern 
side is Pointe Saint-Clement, ESE., 3 miles from the former. 

On Aiguillon point, miles N. J E. from Saint-Marc, 
is aicAife, dioptric, fourth-order light, 43 feet above 
the sea-level, visible 10 miles, exhibited from a black wooden 
beacon 38 feet high. 

At a distance of 12 miles WN W. from Aiguillon point is 
the Pointe duGrouin du Cou. The coast between is con¬ 
cave, formed of sand-downs of moderate height, and with 
sand-flats extending from it throughout. The river Lay Eayriver, 
falls into the pertuis about 4J miles from Aiguillon bay, af¬ 
ter running to the southward and eastward, parallel to the 
coast, for some distance. The western side of the mouth 
is the Pointe de la Roche. The little town of I’Aiguillon 
is situated on its left bank, IJ miles from the mouth. It 
has no trade. 










264 GROUIN DU OOU AND SABLES D’OLONNE LIGHTS. 

The general line of this coast is parallel to the northern 
side of Ed island, and forms the northern shore of the 
Pertuis Breton. 

Gronin du Cou point is about 30 feet high, and is distin¬ 
guished by two towers, from the taller and easternmost one 
of which is exhibited the light. From the point a ledge of 
rocks extends three-fourths of a mile WSW., outside which 
is sand. S. 25^ E., li miles from the light, is the Roche de 
VAunis^ which has but 2 feet on it at low water, the depths 
immediately outside being 3 to 5 fathoms. 

^ 46 ° Grouin du Cou point, exhibited, 92 feet above sea-level, 
N.^^iong., from a square white tower, 46 feet high, attached to the 
keepers dwelling, is a fixed white, dioptric, fourth-order 
light, visible 10 miles. 

The other tower on the point, to the westward of the 
light, is round and smaller. 

The Grouin du Cou light is sometimes called La Tranche 
light. The settlement of La Tranche is a little over a mile 
to the eastward, on the Pointe de Ghiquet. 

Coast. From point Grouin du Oou the coast is sandy, averaging 

120 feet in height, with a few projecting rocks, and extends 
16 miles in a general direction of NW. by W. to Saint-Nic- 
olas point, the western extreme of the entrance to the port 
of Les Sables d’Olonne. 

Perray river. At a distance of 9 uiiles from Grouin du Oou point, the 
small stream of Perray falls into an inlet near the point of 
the same name, and affords an occasional shelter to coast¬ 
ers. 

Lights of Les Southeast of the town of Les Sables d’Olonne are the fol- 

Sables a Olonne. 

lowing two lights leading through the pass to the roadstead 
between Le Nouc’h and Le Noura. 

Potence light. The Poteiice light is a fixed red, catoptric light, elevated 
93 feet above sea-level, exhibited from a square tower on 
the heights. 

light :‘'Lat.r 460 ^ear the beach, 420 yards S. 43^ 30' W. from Potence 
’ Stockade, which is fixed red, catop¬ 

tric, and is exhibited, at an elevation of 33 feet above sea- 
level, from a square tower. 

Both lights are visible 7 miles, through an arc of 12° on 
each side of the line of direction, the power of the light 
diminishing as that line is departed from. 


BARGES D’OLONNE LIGHT. 


265 


On the jetty head on the eastern side of the entrance LW®' 

the harbor is 'a> Jived white, dioptric, fourth-order light, 36 feet ’ 

above sea-level, visible 8 miles, exhibited from a circular 
tower 25 feet high. 

On the western side of entrance to the harbor is La ^Lat., 46° 29'38" 
Chaume light, Jixed white, dioptric, fourth order, 105 feetM"wT^ ’ ^ 
above sea-level, visible 10 miles, exhibited from a square 
tower 84 feet high. 

A life-boat is stationed at Les Sables d’Olonne; there is Lifeboat, 
also a rocket-apparatus to send lines to vessels ashore. 

From the port of Les Sables d’Oloune, the coast-line is Coast, 
convex, running to the west-northwestward five-sixths mile 
to the Pointe de PAiguille, and then trending away to the 
northward. 

On the downs of PAiguille point is a semaphore signal- signal station, 
station, the dwelling of which is of a bluish-gray color. 
Geographical number, B. G. Q. D. 

From Aiguille point a series of rocks, called the Barges Barges a oionne. 
d’Olonne, extend 2^ miles to the westward, several of tlie 
heads of which uncover at low water. This reef was for¬ 
merly considered one of the most dangerous points on the 
coast; but since the establishment of a light there, making 
a land-fall has not been such a source of uneasiness to cap- . 
tains. 

On the Grande Barge, 14 miles from the coast, is a cylin- Light: Lat., 46° 
drical tower 90 feet high, exhibiting, at an elevation of 75i°50'36" w. 
feet above sea-level, a Jived lohite light, varied every three 
minutes by a red Jlash. It is a dioptric light of the third 
order, visible 14 miles. 

Two hundred and seventy-five yards SSVV. of the Petite Buoy. 

Barge, or two-thirds of a mile S. -J W. from the light, is a 
bell buoy. 

The westernmost of the shoal patches is the Basse Ver- Basse verme- 

nou. 

menou, with 25J feet of water on it, IJ miles N. 83° W. from 
the Barges light. It breaks in rough weather. 

For Kb island lights, see page 242. island 

The Pertuis Breton is the passage be ween the northern Bertuis Breton, 
side of Re island and the coast. It is 16 miles long, and 
from 5 to 7 miles wide, with banks and shoals extending a 
long distance off both shores. 

Approaching the Pertuis Breton, soundings are of 
ssistauce in case of foggy weather. 


260 


APPROACHING THE PERTUIS BRETON. 


theparairooftiie parallel of tliG Balelues light, 178 fathoms will be 

Baieines light, found at a distauce of 116 miles, and 82 fathoms at 97 miles, 
the bottom being sand and broken shells. The muddy 
stream of the Gironde is met with a depth of 64 fathoms, 
and the lead shows mud bottom until iu 50 fathoms water. 
A depth of 55 fathoms is 41 miles from the light. 

In clear weath- III clear Weather, when sand is brought up again after 
passing the zone of mud, the light-ship of Koche Bonue will 
be visible to the southward and eastward, and should be 
passed to the southward 3 miles, steering theu E. by N. for 
the entrance to the pertuis. 

In thick weath- Ill case of a fog, should rocky bottom be found 1 or 2 miles 
from the inner edge of the mud, it will indicate that the ship 
is nearly, or exactly, on the parallel of Boche Bonne plateau, 
and heading toward it, and the fog^signal should be listened 
for. If the breeze be from the westward, and nothing be 
heard, the ship should be brought by the wind, on the star¬ 
board or port tack, according to whichever side of the pla¬ 
teau it is desired to pass. 

Should the vessel pass to the southward of the light-ship, 
it would perhaps be best to make Ohassiron, and enter the 
Pertuis Breton by Pallice. 

In case of passing to the northward, there will be no dan¬ 
ger in running to the eastward until in 11 fathoms water. 
Eocky bottom at 9 fathoms would indicate that the ship is 
on the plateau off the western end of Re island, and north¬ 
ing should be made until sand is brought up, possibly with 
a little mud. The vessel would then be off the bar of the 
Pertuis Breton, on which there is a depth of 9 fathoms at 
low water. South of the bar the bottom is rock, and the 
depth less. 

caution. ipijQ nature of the bottom not having been studied as care¬ 

fully here as off the Pertuis d’Autioche, a vessel caught iu 
a fog and seeking shelter from approaching bad weather, 
had better work into the latter, according to directions given 
under that head, and find a lee in the Basques or Aix island 
roads. 

tif^pSiaiTei Vf Should a vessel be farther north, on the parallel of Les 
8 Sables d’Olonne, the inner edge of the stream of the Gi¬ 
ronde will be found 41 miles from that point, with a depth 
of 55 fathoms. The bottom then changes to gray sand, and 


PERTUIS BRETON. 


2G7 


afterward to gravel and broken shells. At night, in clear 
weather, when in 47 fathoms water, the light of Pie d’Yeu 
will be seen in the NE. and that of the Barges d’Olonne will 
be seen when in 2L fathoms, sand and gravel. Boche Bonne 
light is not visible from the parallel of 46° 30'. 

For currents off the pertuis, see pa«:e 247. Currects in the 

In clear weather the entrance to the Pertuis Breton is not Etitering the 
diffioalt, either by night -or by day. Baleines light will [jg 
made first, and then that of the Baleineaux, which latter must 
not be approached nearer than 2 miles, on any account. 

Besides the lights on either shore of the pertuis, there are Landmarks, 
several other good landmarks. 

On Be island, the church steeple of Ars, 3 miles to the On Re island, 
southward and eastward of Baleines light, is equal in height 
to the tower of the latter, and its spire, which is black, is 
often seen from the offing before any other object. Farther 
to the eastward are the town and citadel of Saint Martin, 
and its church steeple. Still farther the village of La 
Flotte lies on the shore, and is recognizable by its blunt- 
topped steeple. The old abbey of Saint-Laurent, with black 
gable, will then be made 1 mile east of La Flotte, and south 
of the former is the tall spire of Sainte-Marie. 

On the northern shore of the pertuis, good landmarks On the main- 

' laud. 

are more scarce, the coast being composed of sand-downs 
from point Grouin du Oou to the mouth of the Lay river, 
and the village of I’Aiguillon, near the latter, being barely 
distinguishable from the offing. To the southward and 
eastward of the latter are La Dive, a calcareous mound in 
the middle of the prairies of Aiguillou, and the light-beacon 
of Aiguillon. Bearings may be taken farther on of the spire 
of Charon, and the peculiar steeple of Marsilly, and the 
lanterne of La Eochelle is visible as well from the Pertuis 
Breton as from that of Antioche. 

Arriving oft' the Pertuis Breton in weather clear enough Directions, 
to see the land by day and the lights at night, bring Grouin 
du Cou light to bear N”. 82^ E., and steer for it. When the 
Baleines and Haut Banc du Nord lights are in line, change 
the course to S. 70^ E., which will lead to the Poiute du 
Plomb at the head of the pertuis. 

In smooth weather the Baleineaux or Haut Banc du Nord smooth 

sea. 

light may be more nearly approached by heading for Grouin 


2G8 


PERTUIS BRETON—TIDES. 


du Coil on a bearing as far north as N. 65® E. On this course 
fathoms will be the least depth found. 

Caution. A check as to the proper distance to pass from the Ba- 

leines point is to keep the top of Baleines light-tower over 
the top of that of Baleineaux. Should the latter entirely hide 
the former, the depth would only be 2J to fathoms, and 
the sea would probably be breaking, although smooth out¬ 
side. 

In rough If there be much sea on, vessels entering the pertuis from 
weather. northward should come south so as to bring Grouin du 

Cou light on the above bearing, (S. 70° E.,) because on 
the long, narrow bank olf that point the sea often breaks, 
although there are 5^ fathoms on it at low water. 

As a general rule the Pointe des Portes, a cape on the 
northern end of the island near Lizay point, should never 
be brought to bear to the southward of S. 20^ E., nor Per- 
ray point, on the main-land, to the westward of N. 44^ VV. 
before heading in, even in the smoothest weather. 

Ordinarily vessels head in when Saint-Martin steeple 
opens from Loix point, S. 48^ E. 

At night. At night approach the entrance on the bearing given 
above, changing course to S. 70^ E., when Baleines and 
Baleineaux lights are in line, being careful to have the former 
visible over the latter. 

The course S. 70^ E. follows the fosse de Ghevarache 
throughout its length, and leads directly to the outer an¬ 
chorage of Saint-Martin, passing 1 mile from Lizay point, 
and miles from Islattes (or Plattes) tower. 

Tides in the Ordinary springs rise 15 to 17 feet in the Pertuis Breton, 
neaps 12 feet. The time of high water, full and change, 
varies, although the same at the Sables d’Olonne as at La 
Kochelle, 3^ 31"*. 

Tidal currents. The cuiTeuts of both flood and ebb tides are stronger near 
the main land than on the Be island side of the pertuis, 
the half-flood running 2, and the half-ebb 2J knots near 
the former. Vessels beating in against the ebb-tide should 
therefore keep near the southern border of the fosse. Ves¬ 
sels beating out, even with a fair tide, would also have the 
advantage of a smoother sea under Re island. 

0/ieyarac/ie borders the northern shore of Re 
island for a length of 10 miles, with depths as great as 28 


CONCHE DES BALEINES. 


2G9 


fathoms off Lizay i>oint. The southern border is rocky and 
shoals almost perpendicularly. To the westward sand pre¬ 
dominates at 12 to 16.J fathoms. Tlie outer bar does not 
break the sea sufficiently to admit of anchoring in bad west¬ 
erly weather; even with a SW. wind a long swell heaves in 
round the Pointe des Baleines. 

The tidal currents run strong, and follow the general di- currents, 
rection of the deeps, turning three-fourth of an hour after 
high or low water. 

Ships sometimes find shelter from S. or SW. winds off' Conchedes Ba 

-i-» • . . leiues. 

Baleines point in 16J feet and over, with ITaut Banc da 
Kord light bearing W. by N., and Baleines light S. 28^ 

W. The bottom here is principally sand and gravel, but 
there are occasional flat rocks; so the holding-ground can 
scarcely be considered good. Another bad feature is, that 
at high water the swell heaves in over the rocks extending 
NW. from the point. Eight hundred and seventy-five 
yards east of the light-tower on the point is a little jetty, 
under the lee of which boats can land. A icliite pyramid, 

200 yards west of the beginning of the jetty, in line with 
Ars steeple, gives the NE. limit of the rocks that uncover 
on the Baleines bank. 

The rocky bank of Les Fortes, with feet on it at low Banc des Por 
water, extends 1^ miles N. and NE. from the redoubt of*®^' 

Les Portes. Saint-Martin steeple, bearing S. 48° E. open of 
Loix po'nt, leads clear to the northeastward of it. 

The Fief rock, over which is a depth of fathoms, rises Roche du Fief, 
abruptly on the southern border of the Fosse de Ohev^arache. 

The bearings of its top are the steeple of Les Portes S. 81° 

W., between Baleines light and semaphore, and the factory 
chimney of Loix S. 2° E. open to the right of Loix church- 
steeple. Between the rock and Re island is a channel of 
great depth. 

Off the entrance to the inlet called the Fief d’Ars is the Fief d Ars, or 
Bucheron buoy, 300 yards to the eastward of which is an- 
chorage in 16J feet water, sand and mud bottom, sheltered 
from all winds except the NW. Large vessels never enter 
the bay, although they could do so at high water, the depth 
at low-water springs being only GJ to 8 feet. 

The lower masts of a sunken brig will be seen on the end 
of the Bucheron bank. 


270 


SAINT-MARTIN ANCHORAGES. 


Outer anchor- Yessels Seeking shelter from a west or southwest gale will 
tin- find it off Saint-Martin, in the outer anchorage, where the 

holding-ground is excellent, the bottom being mud mixed 
with sand and broken shells, at 10 to 11 fathoms. There 
is danger of the wind shifting to the NW., which would 
raise a bad chop-sea during the ebb tide; but in that case 
a berth could be taken inside Le Rocha bank, in the road¬ 
stead, or if the draught of water iiermit, Pallice anchorage 
could be made. 

Bearings. The maiks of this outer anchorage are Ars steeple S. 72® 
30' W., in line with the NW. mill of Loix; Islattes tower 
(sometimes called Plattes) S. 67° 30' W. on with the mills 
of Le Passage, (a small settlement south of Loix, on the west 
shore pf the Mer du Fiefj) Saint-Martin steeple S. 18® W. 
over the harbor palisade; the mills of Preau with the bea¬ 
con Couronneau S. 4^ E., to the right of the Grenetiere 
mills; the steeple of La Flotte a little o[)en to the right of 
that of Sainte-Marie, the latter bearing S. 15^ E.; and the 
lanterne of La Rochelle over the mound to the southward of 
the guard house of Le Ploiub point. 

At night. At night, Baleines light should bear W. J S., Aiguillon 
light N. 760 and Saint-Martin light S. 16o 30' W. 

Caution. case the compasses should not be perfectly reliable, 

the ship should not come any to the southward of the posi¬ 
tion indicated by the first two angles, for fear of getting too 
close to Le Rocha, a shelf extending E. by N. from Loix 
point 3A miles. 

Vessels of not more than 16 feet draught, wanting to 
come to temporarily off Saint-Martin, will find shelter from 
the sea in the roads, to the southeastward of Le Rocha. 
The bottom is mud at 3J fathoms. Vessels should moor 
with sufficient scope on each chain to swing clear of their 
anchors at low water. The SE. edge of Le Rocha is steep- 
to, and in case of the wind coming out from the southward 
it would be advisable to take every precaution not to touch 
it, even to carrying out another anchor. 

AVreck. On the plateau of Le Rocha, 950 yards SW. from the 

Islattes tower, is the sunken wreck of a brig, marked by a 
small buoy 330 yards NNE. of it. 

Directions. To reach the roads from the outer anchorage, steer S. 70® 
E. for Plomb point, after getting under way from the latter, 


PORT OF SAINT-MARTIN. 


271 


until Saint-Martin light-tower and steeple come in line, when 
port the helm and steer S. 28® W. for 1 mile, and anchor. 

The tidal currents in Saint-Martin roadstead are infiu- TWai currents. 


enced on one hand by the general direction of the pertuis, 
and on the other by the Fosse de Loix, the various branches 
and canals of which draw a large mass of water. The con¬ 
sequence is that inside Le Kocha there is a marked eddy. 

The early flood of Saint-Martin and La Flotte sets to the 
westward along the shore to Loix inlet, while in the ofling 
it sets 'to the southward, southeastward, and even north¬ 
eastward. Near the Peu Breton the current of the ebb first 
sets SW. in front of La Flotte, and soon after to NW. But 
at half-ebb this current goes only a little beyond Couron- 
neau, when that of the deeps of Chevarache joins it and 
they bear together on Le Rocha. 

The channel leading into the harbor of Saint-Martin has„ 
only 3 feet in it at low water, the depth alongside the quay 
being 6J feet. But at high water large vessels can enter, 
the principal difficulty arising from their length rather than 
their draught, because of a bend in the channel. 

There are two tide-gauges near the entrance. The zero Tide-gauges, 
of the red one corresponds to the sill of the wet-dock, and 
the old one gives the depth in mid-channel. Besides these 
two, there is on the end of the jetty a white vertical stripe, 
the lower end of which corresponds to the 13j^o feet depth on 
the red stake, or 18yL above the zero of the French charts. 

The sill of the wet-dock has 5 feet on it at low water, so wot-dock. 
that at high-water springs it will take vessels of heavy ton¬ 


nage. 

To enter the port, bring the flag-staff in line with the Entering the 

B 3,x*bor 

west end of the hospital, or the hospital between it and the 
light-tower. 

As soon as the rocks of Couronneau, E. of the entrance. Caution, 
are covered by the rising tide, the current sets to the west¬ 
ward, and a vessel should keep ou the port side of the 
channel, near the jetties. 

Pr^au anchorage is S. of Pr^au bank, on which is a depth Preau anchor- 
of only fathoms at low water, and is, strictly speaking/”®' 
a part of Saint-Martin roadstead. It is about 1,500 yards 
long E. and W., with depths of 5.J fathoms and over, but is 
only about 225 yards wide j it is often necessary to carry 


272 


PREAU AND LA FLOTTE ANCHORAGES. 


Directions. 


At night. 


Anchorage 
La Flotte. 


Directions. 


out another anchor to the southward, in case of the wind 
coming from that quarter, to avoid touching Pr6au bank, 
which is steep-to, and on which enough sea would be raised 
to knock any ship to pieces that were to strike. The 
Preau anchorage is commonly called by fishermen and others 
the Trou des Sept Brasses, (7-fathom hole.) 

To enter Pr6au anchorage, follow directions for making 
Saint-Martin roadstead, and starboard the helm in time to 
keep Islattes tower just open to the northward of Baleines 
light astern, which will give a course of S. 84^ 30' E. An¬ 
chor on this bearing, when Oouronneau beacon passes in 
line with Saint-Martin steeple, S. 58° W. For other marks, 
the Pr4au mills will be about in line with each other; Saiute- 
Marie steeple will be bearing S. E. between the wind¬ 
mills E. of La Flotte and Barres point; and the water-mill 
of Rivedoux will be over the point of the fort de la Free. 
In the westward Ars steeple will be open about to the 
southward of the chimney of Le Passage. 

In case of wishing to make this anchorage at night, a 
vessel should keep on the course S. 70° E. until La Flotte 
light bears S. 5° W., when put the helm hard aport and 
steer for it on that bearing, coming-to when the increased 
depth shows that the anchorage is reached. It might be 
well to use a sextant instead of the compass, as a vessel 
would bring up on Preau bank, were she, from any compass 
error, to go too far to the eastward before heading for La 
Flotte light. A good angle would bo the latter and Grouin 
du Con light, 135° apart, as it would be diminishing rapidly, 
and the proper time would be quite accurately fixed for 
heading for La Flotte. Saint-Martin and Grouin du Cou 
lights, 83° apart, may also be used. 

f The anchorage of La Flotte is SE. from Saint-Martin 
roads. *It having a depth of only 11J feet at low water, few 
vessels are seen there but coasters. 

To reach it head for^Saint Laurent abbey, after doubling 
Le Rocha, and anchor on the following bearings: Saint- 
Laurent and Sablauceaux points in one; the mill on the 
shore, E. of La Flotte, in line with the Grenetiere mill; and 
the factory-chimney of Loix over the extremity of the Saint- 
Martin fortifications. The bottom is mud and shells. 

At night run for La Flotte light immediately on entering 


At night. 


PALLTCE ANCHORAGE. 


its range of visibility (bearing !S. J E.) and anchor when 
Saint Martin light bears west. 

Off Saint-Laurent point, on which is the rained abbey so Point saint- 
often used for a landmark, a ledge of rocks extends out 105 
yards. 

A bank called tbe Pen Breton skirts the coast of Be isl- Peu Breton, 
and from Sablanceaux point to La Flotte, and projecting out 
reaches the shoals off Aiguillon point. The depth over it 
at low water is only 9J feet, but at high-water springs it is 
sometimes as much as 29J feet. Vessels have to cross it to 
reach Pallice anchorage or the Pertuis d’Autioche. 

The Pen Breton divides the current leaving Aiguillon 
bay, one part going south through Pallice anchorage, and 
the other joining the general current in the Pertuis Breton. 

To reach Pallice anchorage from the northward, steer S.,.to reach Pai- 

• ' lice anchorage. 

/O^E. for Plomb point until about 2 miles from it, which 
will be when Sainte-Marie steeple has opened a little to the 
eastward of the tort of La Free. Then port the helm and 
steer S. 4^ E. for Lavardin tower, which on that bearing 
will be seen at one third distance between Sablanceaux and 
Saint-Marc points. This course leads to the anchorage, 
where depths of not less than 10 feet will be found at low 
water after the steeple of Laleu appears to the northward 
of the Lanterne of La Rochelle. For 5J fathoms and over 
keep on to the southward of abreast Sablanceaux point. 

Pallice anchorage, or, as it is sometimes called, the Oour- Paiiice anchor- 
eau de File de Re, begins at the Peu Breton and extends to 
Lavardin tower. Tlie largest vessels can safely remain 
there, the depth in some places being 7 fathoms. East, a 
half mile from Sablanceaux fort, is the deepest water and 
perfect shelter, but with the single objection of the tidal 
currents running IJ knots at springs. 

Very good anchorage in fathoms is found half a mile 
l^E. of Sablanceaux point; the bearings are Chauveau light 
just outside and touching the redoubt of Sablanceaux; 
Sainte-Marie steeple over that of Rivedoux ; and the steei)le 
of Laleu open its width to the southward of the mill of La 
Repen tie. 

At low-water springs the tidal current runs i knot to the Tkiaicurrents, 
southward and westward between Oha ^veau light and Lavar¬ 
din tower, not turning for one hour. The flood then runs to 
18 N C 


274 


AIGUILLON BAY. 


the eastward, and a lialf-honr later makes to tlie northward 
toward Aignillon bay at a rate of If knots. At high water 
the flood-tide still has a strength of a half knot iu the same 
direction. The ebb commences to make shortly after, and 
attains its greatest velocity one hour before low water. 
Aiguiiion Bay. Aiguilloii bay dries at low water, but the depth of the 
mud is such that vessels, even of large draught, entering at 
high water, will be left upright in it by the ebb tide. It is 
an excellent place for a vessel to make in the event of hav¬ 
ing lost masts or anchors. In case of heavy winds the mud 
stirred up makes the water too sluggish to admit of any sea 
being raised. 

The bay was formerly used a good deal by coasters as 
well as by deep-water ships, but the railroads, and the de¬ 
crease in the depth of the anchorage at the entrance, have 
diminished the numberof either. It is now only frequented 
by vessels bound up the Lu^on or Marans rivers. 

Directions. In the day-time, a vessel bound for either of these rivers, 
or intending to ground in the bay, after skirting the Jaux 
bank should steer to pass miles south of Aiguillon point. 
Before reaching the anchorage, abreast the light, which has 
11| to 13 feet of water, a mud bar will be crossed with only 
8 f feet. At high water, however, any vessel can pass it. 
The best anchorage is between Aiguillon light and point 
Saint-Clementd’Bnandre, on the following cross-bearings: 
La Dive between Aiguillon light and beacon, Repeiitie point 
open 2° W. of Plomb point, and Enandre steeple over 
Saint-Clement point. The depth on these bearings is 13 
feet, soft mud bottom. 

Coasters generally pass to the eastward of the beacon. 
Large ships, dismantled, should try to work to under the 
lee of the sand spit marked by the beacon. Should that be 
impossible there would still be a good chance for them in 
the eastern part of the bay, as many vessels have been 
saved in the artiticial basins of the eastern shore.* 

Port of Les Sa- The port of Les Sables d’Olonueis small, and dries at low 
iiesdoionne. ^atei*. It is entered through a passage between two moles, 
- ■■ ■■ - — ■■ ~ ■ ■■■' ' ■ 

* The basins are made by planting rows of fascines vertically in the 
mnd. In them are cultivated various shell-fish, which occupation 
furnishes employment to the inhabitants of Charon, Enandre, and Mar- 
silly. 



LES SABLES D’OLONNE ROADSTEAD. 


275 


Tvliicli extend to the southward, one from Saint-Nicolas 
point, and the other, which is the larger, though not the 
more prominent, from the west end of the town. 

Saint-Nicolas point is distinguishable by a fort and a small 
church. 

The Sables d^Olonne roadstead, with the channel leading Roadstead, 
therefrom to the entrance of the port, lies in front of a large 
sand-beach, and has a depth of 5^ to 6.J fathoms, bottom 
principally of sand, with occasional mud and rock. Al¬ 
though the holding-ground is good, it is not a safe place to 
ride out a gale of wind. In the event of bad weather com¬ 
ing on, however, there is a good chance of being able either 
to put to sea or make Pile d’Yeu, or the pertuis, for shelter. 

The marks of the roadstead are the jetty and La Ohaume 
lights in line in the northward, and the Potence and Stock¬ 
ade lights in line in the eastward ; La Chaume will be over 
the spur of Saint-Nicolas, and the alley to the left of Les 
Sables steeple open from it and over the arch in the quay. 

The roadstead is limited in the westward by three rocky Shoais. 
shoals, called Le Noura, Le Nouc’h, and the Barre Marine, 
which extend to the southward and eastward from Saiut- 
Nicolas point, and on which at low water are depths of 7J, 

1 , and 25J feet, respect!vel^^ 

In bad weather there is a continuous line of breakers be¬ 
tween Saint-Nicolas point and Le Nouc’h, and in a heavy 
gale they extend to the eastward of the latter to the shore. 

The Barre Marine seldom breaks. 

The approach to this portion of the coast is indicated at ^ 

night by the Barges light, and by that of La Ohaume, the 
latter being the higher of the two, although not visible as 
far as the former. 

Coming from the south westward, still another light will be 
visible at a slight elevation above the sea j this is the jetty 
light, and to the right of it will be noticed a luminous ap¬ 
pearance caused by the lights of the town. 

The jetty light, when bearing to the eastward of N. 55° 

E., is hidden by the fort of Saint-Nicolas. 

A vessel coming from the westward, when 2J miles from 
the Barges light, should head three points to the southward 
to clear all the dangers of the Barges. 


27G 


Boating up 
near the Barges 
(I’Olonue. 


Pass between 
the Grande and 
Petite Barges. 


Directions. 


APPROACHINa THE BARGES D’OLONNE. 

A vessel beating about in the vicinity of the Barges d^O- 
lonne, should not come nearer than miles to the west¬ 
ward of the light, if there be much sea on, because the sea 
becomes very high on the GJ-fathom patches, and breaks in 
bad weather on the Basse Yermenou, which has 4^ fathoms 
on it. 

In very bad weather the breakers of Yermenou join those 
of the Grande Barge, and a vessel should not attempt to 
pass between, although the depth of water be ample. 

In smooth weather the Barges light may be approached to 
one-third mile from the westward, taking for a limit the 
Petite Kocbe des Barges, (which almost always breaks,) S. 
400 E., open two points outside of Perray point. 

The northern limit of the bank on which stands the light- 
tower is given by Les Sables steeple open a little to the 
northward of that of La Chaume. The two in line lead 
through in 3| fathoms of w ater, where the sea breaks in 
rough weather. 

On the southern side, if there be much swell in the off¬ 
ing, neither the Grande nor the Petite Barge should be ap¬ 
proached very close, as the sea is tremendous on those 
plateaux. A vessel will keep clear. in the southward, 
either by steering to the southward of the bell-buoy, 275 
yards SSW. of the Petite Barge, or by going nothing to 
the northward of the alignment of a wind-mill without sails, 
(the highest of all those on the right of the town of Les 
Sables,) or the Potence light, and the low point of Saint- 
Nioolas, or by keeping the Saint-Jean mill always to the 
right of La Grange farm-house. 

The little rock of the Barges dries 9| feet at low wa¬ 
ter. 

The pass between the Grande and Petite Barges is often 
used, in day-time, by coasters. The least depth is 5J fath¬ 
oms, so there is nothing to fear as far as the water is con¬ 
cerned. In rough weather it should be avoided. 

In good weather, to run through the middle of this pass, 
steer N. 89° E. for the fort of Saiut-Nicolas in line with the 
southernmost of three mills on the southern end of the 
beach of Les Sables. Keep this course until abreast of the 
Petite Barge, when the ship’s head should be laid S. 77^ E., 
having La Peruse rock off Tanchette point under the mill of 


PASSES TO LES SABLES D’OLONNE. 


277 


Saint-Jean, which latter will be between the farm house of 
La Grange and the Tanchette guard house. This course 
leads at a safe distance from the rocks of the coast, and 
must only be left to enter the pass inshore of Le Noura. 

The alignment of the mill of Saint*Jean may be made, 
by a vessel coming from the northward, after rounding at 
a distance of a half-mile the Barges light. The range also 
leads south of Vermenou. 

From the Ecarquillds rocks to Le Noura, the latter align¬ 
ment is the limit of boards a vessel should make to the 
northward, to avoid the rocks off the coast. 

To enter the passage between the Grande and Petite 
Barges, a more northerly alignment may be substituted for 
that given of the fort of Saint-Nicolas. A good course 
would be N. 80° E. for the steeple of Les Sables, midway 
between La Ohaume light and the Peu Judith. The latter 
is an abrupt eminence oh the coast, north of the semaphore, 
and in the given alignment appears to the left of La 
Chaume light. When abreast of the Petite Barge, steer S. 

770 E. as directed above. 

Coasters coming from the northward frequently use the Pasa inshore of 
Baudras channel, inshore of the Grande Barge. Barge. ^ 

If coming from the northward with good weather, steer Directions, 
for the Barges light, until 450 or 500 yards from it. If com¬ 
ing from the NW. steer first S. 77^ E., for the steeple of 
Les Sables a little open to the northward of La Chaume 
steeple, or else S. 72^ E., for La Chaume light a little open 
to the southward of La Chaume mill, until the Barges light 
bears S., when steer for it. When 500 yards from the latter, 
starboard the helm, and steer to round the light at a distance 
of 500 to 550 yards, until it bears W. The course then is 
SSE. for a mile until Saint-Jean mill is between the guard¬ 
house and farm-house of La Grange; when the latter is 
open its own width to the southward of the guard-house, 
the southern point of the Ecarquillds rocks is passed. 

In bad weather the Baudras channel is impracticable, as 
the Vermenou breakers join those of the coast. 

The Grand channel, leading up to the harbor of Les Sa- Grand channel 

® , 1 1 i harbor. 

bles from the southward and eastward, is the only one that 
can be used in bad weather. 


278 


PASSES TO LES SABLES D’OLONNE. 


Directions. 


Caution. 


Depths. 


At night. 


S. W. pass. 


Directions. 


Bring La Chaume light to bear N. 40^ W., a little to the 
left of the light on the jetty forming the east side of the 
entrance, and steer for it. 

Vessels coming from the northward or westward must 
come on that alignment far enough to the southward to 
clear the Barre Marine. A distance of IJ miles from Saint- 
Nicolas point would be ample, because a little less than 
three-fourths mile SE. of that is the Basse de la Pruni^re, 
which is seldom known to break, but on which is a depth of 
only 4J fathoms. 

On the course N. 40° W., leading along the shore, nothing 
less than fathoms will be found until the semaphore near 
the fort of PAiguille passes over the extremity of Saint- 
Nicolas outer jetty. The depths then decrease graduallj^, 
and near the first red buoy, called La Mouette, there are 
only fathoms, bottom of sand and rock partially decom¬ 
posed. Vessels generally anchor there to wait for the tide 
to serve. 

At night vessels coming from the S. or W. bring the 
light on the jetty a little to the right of the higher light of 
La Chaume, and anchor in the roads on that range. 

With W. or WNW. winds, in moderately good weather, 
some time and distance can be saved by passing to wind¬ 
ward of the Barre Marine, between it and Le Nouc’h in the 
southwest channel. 

To enter that channel bring the city mill (the lowest of 
ten mills east of Les Sables) in line with the fourth from the 
north, or the mill without sails, on the height, over a mill 
half-way up the slope, the fourth from the south. These 
two ranges are parallel and lead in N. 34^ E. When La 
Chaume light passes to the eastward of the wall of Saint- 
Nicolas, starboard the helm and proceed as directed above. 

This SW. pass is called the Grand channel from the west¬ 
ward. 


Pass between The pass between Le Nouc’h and Le Noura is not practi- 

JLie iN ouc n and . . . . , , ^ 

Le Noura. Cable in bad weather. 

Directions. Having a smooth sea, while in the offing, bring the city 
mill to bear N. 43° E., open half its own width to the right 
of the mill without sails or the Poteuce light, the two latter 
being adjacent. Starboard the helm when the spire of La 
Chaume steeple passes to the right of La Chaume light, and 


ANCHORAGE—TIDES. 


279 


steer for the red buoy, which will be under Les Sables 
steeple. If intending to enter the harbor, steer for the light- 
tower on the end of the eastern jetty. 

The course N. 43® E. leads over the tail of Le Noura, with 
fathoms; but this depth should be sufficient, being- 
greater than that of the inner roadstead, and a fortiori 
greater than that on the harbor bar. 

At night the two red lights of La Potence and the Stock- At night, 
ade lead in on the same bearing within one-half degree. 

The pass inshore of Le Noura has only 104 feet at low Pass between 
water, but that being more than will be found at the en- 

point. 

trance, the pass is practicable in smooth weather for any 
vessel that can enter the harbor. 

The range in which to enter this pa.ss is that of the three Directions, 
southernmost mills of Les Sables. These three are not per¬ 
fectly in line; the middle one, which has no roof, should be 
brought under the one on the height, and the lower one will 
be a little to the left of their alignment. Steer in N. 73'^ 

E. on this range until La Ohaume light passes to the east¬ 
ward of Saint-iSlicolas fort. Then starboard the helm gently, 
rounding the Pot^e de Beurre and the Petite Pierre du Port, 
and when La Ohaume light is well open to the eastward of 
Saint-Kicolas point, head for the eastern jetty. 

The outer anchorage is indicated by the buoy of ancbor- 

Mouette, 470 yards S. 47° E. from the end of the eastern jetty, 
and is very good as long as the wind remains in the N. or 
NW.; but should there be a shift to west or southwest, a 
bad sea would be raised very quickly. The holding ground 
is good, and vessels have been known to ride out very heavy 
gales of wind at anchor there. On the other hand, vessels 
have been known to part their cables, and be lost, with all 
on board, on the beach. 

Before entering the harbor, the height of the tide must 
be obtained. 

It is high water, full and change, in the harbor of Les 
Sables d’Olonne, at 3*‘ 31“. The mean spring rise is 15 feet; 
neaps lli feet; mean neap range 8 feet. The height at 
any time can be obtained by deducting 2| feet from that at 
Aix island for the same hour, found in the Annuaire des 
Marees. In case of a vessel waiting in the outer anchorage, 
the height can be found by means of signals made from the 


280 

TOAVN OF LES SABLES D’OLONNE. 

Directions. 

flag-staff near the end of the jetty, or by the gauge painted 
on the salient angle of the jetty, or by the uncovered parts 
of the rocks and outer works. 

Steer for the light-tower on the eastern mole until the 
alignment is made of two red light-beacons on the western 
quay, to the right of La Chauine light. After passing the 
latter keep midway between the quays. 

At nisht. 

At night the directions are the same, and are easy to fol¬ 
low, using the two red lanqis on the left quay. 

Vessels ground in the black mud and sand in the harbor, 
well protected from the sea. 

AVet-dock. 

The wet-dock, which was opened to vessels in May, 1874, 
is entered by a lock 54 feet wide. The length of quay sur¬ 
rounding the dock is 470 yards. Draughts of 19| feet can 
enter at highest springs, 161 at ordinary springs, and 13 
at neaps. 

There is no special charge for entering the dock. 


Town of L es The town of Les Sables d’Olouue is built partly on level 
Sables d oionne. Scarcely raised above the level of the sea;*the re* 


Population. 

Industries. 

mainder is slightly elevated, and in the form of an amphi¬ 
theatre. Several of tlie streets are long and handsome. 
Two churches, a nunnery, alms-houses, schools, hospitals, 
and a prison are among the establishments of the place. 

The jiopulation is over 6,200. 

The Sables d’Olonne has long been the first fishing-port 
on the coast of France, and the establishment of a railroad 
connecting with other lines in the interior will develop its 
commerce. 


CHAPTER IX. 

LES BARGES D’OLONNE TO QUIBERON PENINSULA. 

Variatim in 1876.—LTle cVYeu, 19° 18' W.; Belle-Ile, 19° 30' W.; mouth 
of the Loire, 19° 10' W. 

Corbeau point, the eastern extremity of the He d’Yeu, is 
125 miles W. of the Poiute de Grosse Terre, near Saint- 
Gilles-sur-Vie. The island is miles long WNW. and 
ESE., 2 miles broad, and quite regular in form. 

There is but scanty vegetation on the island, it being in 
fact simply a huge mass of granite, moderately high and 
steep in the W. and SW. parts, but low and flat in the 
eastern. 

Vessels bound for the pertuis with NW. winds, or those 
coming from the English channel bound for Bordeaux, 
should verify their position by sighting this island, partic¬ 
ularly if they have not made Belle-Ile. 

Independently of the advantages it affords vessels for 
verifying position, &c., the island has several anchorages, 
in two of which, those of La Sablaire and La Conche, large 
vessels can find shelter from all winds from NVV. round by 
W. to SE. 

The currents in the vicinity of Pile d'Yeu flow toward 
every point of the comi)as.s, turning with the hands of a 
watch. At half-flood the direction is NE., changing at 
high water to SE. round one end, and SW. off' the other end 
of the island. 

The current of the flood seems to come from SW., strik¬ 
ing first near Vieux-Chateau bay and separating into two 
branches, which, rounding Corbeau point and the Ohieu- 
Perrins rocks, respectively, join again off* Gautier point and 
flow toward Fromantine. Near the Chieu-Perrins it attains 
a velocity of 3 knots, running to the east-northeastward, 
and setting vessels on these rocks. Many shipwrecks have 
been brought about in that way. 


LTle d’Yeu. 


Tidal-currents. 


Flood-tide, 


ILE D^YEU LIGHTS. 

During tbe ebb-tide the current flows S. aud SW. round 
the E. end of the island, and SW. aud W. off the W. end. 
It attains its maximum speed of 3 to 4 knots after SE. or 
E. winds. With a W. or NW. swell at the same time, the 
sea becomes very short and is covered with white-caps. 

It is high water, full and change, at lie dWeu at 3^ 6“. 
Mean springs rise 14J feet; neaps 10 feet. 

Apart from the light-towers, the principal landmarks are 
a square fort in the interior If miles ESE. J E. from Pointe 
de la Butte, the western extreme of the island, and the 
church-steeple of Saint Sauveur, IJ miles N. from Pointe 
de La Tranche the southernmost headland. On the SW. 
shore is the Chateau in ruins, and bearings are frequently 
taken of different mills, 
li^t-” 46 ° mound of Petite Foule, 1,860 yards to the south- 

2 °‘> 3 ^ northern point of I’lle d’Yeu, and 1,815 yards 

SE. J E. from La Butte point, is a circular white tower, 108 
feet high, exhibiting, at an elevation of 112 feet above sea- 
level, 2 b fixed dioptric, first-order light, visible 18 miles. 
It illuminates the whole horizon, being visible over every¬ 
thing on the island. 

Signal-station. Qii La Butte point is a semaphore, with white building. 
Geographical number B. G. Q. C. 

Port-Breton There are two harbor lights at Port-Breton, one at the 
lights. outer end of the jetty called the grand quay; on the north 

side of the entrance, in latitude 46^ 43' 37" north, longi¬ 
tude 2^^ 21' 02" west, is 2 l fixed white^ dioptric, fourth order 
light, visible 8 miles, elevated 26 feet above sea-level, ex¬ 
hibited from a circular red tower, 17 feet high. 

At the head of the harbor, 284 yards SSW. from the for¬ 
mer, is a square white tower, 39 feet high, exhibiting a sim¬ 
ilar light, 66 feet above sea-level, and visible 9 miles. 

Also, 2 b fixed red light is shown from a lamp-post on the 
wall of the left bank of the entrance, 95 yards from the ex¬ 
tremity, elevated 26 feet above sea level, and visible 5 
miles. 

Life-boat. ^ life-boat is stationed at Port-Breton. 

corbeau Point Oil Oorbeau point, exhibited from a square white stone 
4 eV 6 '' N.?'ioig° tower, 38 feet high, with dwelling attached, is a fixed red 
2 ° 17' 09" w. light, elevated 64 feet above the sea. This light is dioptric, 
of the fourth order, visible 7 miles. 


282 

Ebb-tide. 

Tides. 

Landmarks. 


R"r .^rt 




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lie d’ Yeu from the NW. 


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VoTtny --- 


S'W. Coast of lie d’ Yeu . 









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lie d’ Yeu froan the SC 


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APPROACHING ILE D’YEU. 


283 


As is the case all along this portion of the French coast, 
reliance can be placed, to a considerable extent, on the 
soundings oflf the island, both as regards the depth of 
water and the nature of the bottom. 

On the parallel of Petite Foule light, gray sand will be ‘'of 

found at 110 fathoms, 106 miles to the westward, anti at 82 n. 
fathoms, 85 miles off. Muddy sand will not be brought up 
until 65 miles from the light, in 73 fathoms water; at about 
50 miles, at a depth of 65 fathoms, is soft mud; ami filially, 

31 miles off, are 55 fathoms. The soundings continue to 
diminish, and the bottom ch luges from mud to sand mixed 
with gravel and shells. Inside the zone of mud, oyster- 
beds are also found. There are 11 fathoms just clear of the 
rocks off’ La Butte point. 

During the day, if the weather be clear, the island will in tbeday-time, 
be recognized by Petite Foule light tower, which will seem 
to stand in the water, being sighted before any part of the 
land. Near it will be seen the spire of Saint-Sauveur, 
almost equaling it in height. The central fort will also be 
noticed when the land is made. 

Coming from the northwestward, and passing the island At night, 
in clear weather at night. Petite Foule light will be made as 
that of Belle-Ile is sunk, and will still be visible from aloft 
when Roche Bonne is sighted. 

There is no great necessity of sounding much when ap-fr^^oTthweJtf 
proaching the island from the NW., as Belle-Ile will prob¬ 
ably have been made. The depths decrease, but the changes 
are abrupt, and rocky bottom predominates off the mouth 
of the river Loire. 

Off La Butte point are a number of rocks, called Les ^^®°®- 
Chiens-Perrins, which were formerly greatly feared by nav¬ 
igators, because of the current of the flood-tide setting on . 

them so strong. They are avoided hr the SW. by not allow¬ 
ing the Eveque rock, of the Troupaille group, to open from 
La Panree point. The highest is about 19 feet above low- 
water springs. 

The Grand Champ rock, the top of which is 18 feet above ^ ® ^ 

low water, lies one-half mile off the NW. shore of the 
island, on the alignment of the central fort and Saint-Sau¬ 
veur steeple beyond. The latter, open to the northward of 
the former, shows clear to the northward of the rock. 


284 


PORT BRETON. 


Basse Cantin. The Basse Cautio is a shoal, which, protruding only 1 
foot above low water, is very much feared by the smaller 
vessels that hug the shore. It is the extremity of a ledge 
of rocks extending to the northward of La Brame, the 
northernmost point of the island 5 its bearings are Petite 
Foule light-tower over the black top of the rocks, and the 
outer light of Port-Breton just shut in by the north angle 
of La Croix fort. The latter light, open of the fort, leads 
clear, and the pilots always use that range at night. 

Basse Sauzey. The surveys give a least depth of 5 fathoms on Sauzey 
bank, but a fisherman has reported a much shoaler spot on 
it, and although the head that he mentioned could not be 
found afterward, it is best to steer clear of it while there is 
any doubt on the subject. It is 2 | miles north of the island, 
and is cleared by the following ranges: in the east by Le- 
compte mill in line with Port-Breton steeple, S. 2° 30' W., 
and in the west by Saint-Sauveur steeple over the extremity 
of the western jetty of Port-Breton, S. 26^ E. These ranges 
lead 1 mile clear of it. 

Port-Breton. Port-Brctoii is Only accessible to small vessels, that come 
and ground there for shelter. The inner harbor dries 
feet at low-water springs, but in other places are depths of 
7f feet, and vessels of 300 tons have been there for shelter. 

Tide-signals. Tide-signals are made at the end of the jetty. 

Outer anchor- III the outei’ anchorage is a depth of 10 feet at low water, 
and small vessels frequently drop anchor there, sheltered 
from the heavy SW. sea. 

horag?*^^’^^ With the wind from any point between SE. and west, the 
anchorage of La Sablaire is under the lee of the island, and 
has 19J feet at low water, over sand and shells. There is no 
sea there unless the wind come from the NW., and in that 
• case vessels are always able to get under way under sail, and 

find a lee to the southward of the island, or in the pertuis. 

Directions. To make La Sablaire anchorage from seaward, give Pe¬ 
tite Foule light-tower a berth of at least 2 miles, while 
rounding the north end of the island, and steer S. 39 ° E. 
for Oorbeau light shut in with point Gautier, or the latter 
and La Oonche point in line. These ranges lead within one- 
half mile of the shore, and the anchor may be dropped when 
the northern end of the horseshoe of Port-Breton is iu line 
with the houses south of La Croix fort and Le Calvaire, 


LA SABLAIRE BANK. 


285 


Petite Foule light-tower open to the southward of Port- 

Breton steeple the width of the latter, S. 77^ W., and Le- 

compte mill over the middle of Keruichalon village. 

La Sablaire bank has 10| feet on it at low water over „ de La 

1 1 1 11 1 • ^ Sablaire. 

sand and shells, and is cleared to the eastward by keeping 
Saint-Sauvenr steeple over the village of Les Sables, or Le- 
compte mill over Keruichalon; and to the westw^ard by the 
Meunier and Lecompte mills in one, the former being the 


Roche 

ence. 


Ml 


easternmost of two mills near Port-Breton, and the latter a 
little over one-half mile SE. by S. from the central fort. 

• Between La Sablaire bank and the island is a passage Pass south of 
with depths of 18J to 25 feet. The point of Oantin open of 
the end of the western jetty of Port-Breton leads through 
the middle. 

In this last range the iioint proper must be used, and not Caution, 
the rocks off it which uncover at low water. The latter, 
open of the end of the jetty, w^ould put a vessel on Gautier 
point. 

The Maj^ence rock is confounded sometimes with the 
northern part of La Sablaire bank, but it is very distinct 
from it, the bottom being rock, over which is a depth of 20J 
feet at low water. Saint-Sauveur steeple over the old bat¬ 
tery of Gautier point leads clear to the eastward. Outside 
and to the eastward of it are other spots of rocky bottom 
also, but they are not elevated above the adjacent sand and 
gravel, and as vessels do not anchor so far out, they do not 
deserve special mention. 

South-southeast of La Sablaire bank, a short distance to„P«c^® 
the northward and westward of Gautier point, is the Roche 
du Front, wdiich protrudes 5J feet above low wmter. No 
steamer would come near enough to the point to be in dan¬ 
ger of striking this rock, but vessels beating along the 
shore should tack when the little red tower off the entrance 
to Port-Breton is in line with the middle of La Croix fort 
beyond. 

The anchorage of La Conche is sheltered from all winds 
betw’een SE. through SW. to NW. Vessels indeed have 
ridden out gales from the latter point, the force of the sea 
being somewdiat broken by Sablaire bank, and the holding- 
crround being better than that of Sablaire anchorage. With 


d u 


La Conche aa- 
chorage. 


286 


CORBEAU AND LA TRANCHE POINTS. 


Bearings. 


Caution. 


Corbeau point. 


A n 8 e d e 8 
Vieilles. 


L ’ Ours dc 8 
Vieilles. 


the sand of the bottom here are mixed finely-broken shells 
and a little mud. 

At a distance of one-half mile from the coast, sand and 
gravel are found at 20.} feet at low water, with point Oor- 
beau bearing S., and the end of the jetty of Port-Breton 
hidden by Gautier point. Farther S., on the same bearing 
of Corbeau point, is a better lee, but large vessels should 
not bring Petite Foule light-tower nearer to the old un¬ 
roofed mill than to that of Maingron j i. e., not to bear to 
the northward of W. by N. 

Large vessels coming from the southward to make this 
anchorage must give a good berth to Corbeau point and 
La Conche bank, not heading to the westward until Petite 
Foule li^ht-tower is over the Maingron mill, S. 82*^ W. 

Corbeau point, before the establishment of its light, was 
considered a dangerous place. An offing of one-half mile 
will clear all the shoals there. 

On the southern shore of the island, a little over 1 mile 
to the westward of Corbeau point, is a bay, called PAnse 
des Vieilles, which is much frequented in winter by coast¬ 
ing and other vessels seeking ai.lee from N W. or NE. winds. 
The anchorage is with Saint-Sauveur steeple over the beach, 
N W. J W. Large vessels may come there, as there is a depth 
of 16} feet at 225 yards from the shore, and a greater a little 
distance off the given range. The bottom is sand and 
gravel, and, except in the event of a shift to VV. or SW”., it 
is a good port of refuge. 

A rock, called POurs des Vieilles, is the SW. limit of the 
anchorage, and a vessel should never attempt to pass inshore 
of it, as it is connected with the cliffs by a chain of rocks. 
To clear this rock and Corbeau point it is simply necessary 
to keep Petite Foule light-tower visible over the laud from 


deck. 


La Tranche To thesouthWestward of PAnse des Vieilles is La Tranche 
point, which is cleared by keeping Petite Foule light-tower 
to the left of the battery of La Mule. 

Port fie la In the port de la Mule is anchorage sheltered from north- 
erly winds. To make it, steer first N. 33° E. for Saint-Sau¬ 
veur steeple, or N. 20^ VV. for the central fort, and finally 
for a solitary tree over the point on the starboard hand. If 
the wind shifts to W. or S., vessels have to put to sea. 


PONT d’yeu. 287 

The Vienx Chateau bay is seldom used now. To anchor ^^“^eduVieux 

CMteau. 

With IbJ feet and over at low water, steer for Petite Foiile 
light-tower to the right of a house and over a cleft in the 
rocks, N. by W. ^ w. This range leads in to the northward 
of FOnrs and to the southward of the inner shoal. 

The Pout d’Yeu is a bank extending from the island to Pontd’Yeu. 
the northeastward to the main land, and over whicli, for a 
width of 5 miles, is a depth of 19 feet. But as the sea can 
scarcely ever be perfectly smootli, it is not advisable for a 
vessel drawing more than 12 or 14 feet to beat over it 
at low water, or to cross it elsewhere than in the deeper 
channels. 

There are three cuts, with depths of fathoms, uniting 
the deep water NW. of the Pont d’Yeu with that to the 
southeastward. 

The northernmost of these channels is too far N. to admit 
of taking bearings on lie d’Yeu. Besides, it is very tor¬ 
tuous. 

To follow the second or middle channel, a large vessel 
coming from the northward should steer SE. to enter the 
deep to the northward of the Mayence rock; that is to say, 
should approach so as to pass lie d’Yeu 2^ miles to star¬ 
board. 

As a check on a ship’s position, when Corbeau point bears 
S., Petite Foule light-tower should be visible over the jetty 
of Port-Breton; when on that cross-bearing steer S. by E. 
to just clear Corbeau point, until Petite Foule light-tower 
draws near the NW. angle of the central fort. Then, put 
the helm a-starboard 8 points, steering E. by N., with the 
light tower astern just clear to the northward of the fort. 

After making 1 mile on this course, the ship’s head may 
be laid SE. The least depth will have been 4 fathoms at 
low water. 

The third or southern channel is a little to the southward Southern chan¬ 
nel. 

of the middle one. To follow it steer as before, S. by E., 
to clear Corbeau point, but keep on that course until Petite 
Foule light-tower passes to the southward of the central 
fort, and over the middle of point Gautier. Then starboard 
the helm and keep this latter alignment astern, steering N. 

880 E., until Corbeau point bears S. 27® W. The Pont 


COAST—ROCKS. 


288 

d’Yeu will have been crossed with a least de])tli of 23^ feet 
at low water. ' 

Caution. With a heavy sea, whether beating through or making a 

straight course, captains of vessels of such draught as do 
not need to take the deep channels, should not approach the 
Marguerites rocks. After a southerly blow, i)articularly if 
the wind have shifted to NW., the whole northern portion 
of the Pont d’Yeu is so covered with white water that there 
will be no doubt as to the exi)ediency of passing near He 
d’Y'eu. 

Caution. Ill the vadous courses made by large vessels, account 

must be taken of the set of the tidal currents. {Vide page 
281.) 

Coast from Les Froiu the Poiiite dc I’Aiguille, off which lie the Barges 
to Saiut-Giiies. d’Oloniie, the coast runs 13f miles NNW. J W., to Saint- 
Gilles sur-Vie, and presents a series of sand downs of mod¬ 
erate height. At a distance of 2 miles off shore over 
fathoms will invariably be found, while at 3J miles the 
depth is nowhere less than 11 fathoms at low water, with 
sand and gravel bottom. 

Roches du Re- Between Bretignolles and Saint Kicolas i3oint, 1 mile to 
the southward of the former, are the Roches du Repos, un¬ 
der the lee of which small coasters frequently find shelter. 
These rocks, and all others in the vicinity, are avoided by 
keeping the Pilours rock inside Pointe de Grosse Terre. 

RochesBiron. Biron rocks are 3J miles to the of the Re¬ 

pos rocks, and are avoided by keeping Saint-Hilaire steeple 
to the westward of that of Oroix-de-Vie. The Biron rocks 
proper do not extend nearly out to that range, but 180 yards 
S. by W. from their extremity is a shoal, with only 14 feet 
which is cleared by it. 

There is still another shoal IJ miles to the NNW. of the 
Biron r; cks, which is avoided in the same way. 

Roche Bon- a distauce of five-sixths mile S. by E. from Pointe de 

IlC£lUa 

la Garenne, the southern point of the entrance to the river 
forming Saint-Gilles harbor, is Bonneau rock. It is easily 
avoided by keeping Saint-Hilaire steeple open to the left of 
Garenne point. The steeple of Saint-Gilles, a little to the 
right of the highest of the sand-downs, leads in clear to the 
southward, in case of a vessel beating up along the land. 
When near the Bonneau rock, the drift of the vessel should 


Caution. 







SAINT-GILLES-SUR-VIE—LTGHT. 


289 


be watched, as the flood-tide sets on the rock from the off- 
in.sr. 

Near the rock, a little to the southward of it, is a srood Beaching a 
place to beach a vessel in case of having sprung a leak, or 
being unable to claw off against a gale of wind. French 
vessels have been stranded there to escape an enemy of su¬ 
perior force. 

To the northward of Bonneau rock, 1,175 yards S. by W. nock, 
j W. from Garenne point, in 8.J feet water, is a rock but 
little elevated above the adjacent sands. 

Saint-Gilles-sur-Vie is on the coast of La Yendee, and the Saint-GUies- 
port is recognizable from afar by the steeples of Oroix-de-Yie 
and Saint-Gilles, near each other, and of characteristic form. Landmarks. 
From a distance of 5 or G miles, the Pilours rock is also seen 
off the Pointe de Grosse Terre. 

On the end of a jetty extending to the southeastward 4iHo^^N.^*ioJg° 
from Groix-de Vie, on the north side of the entrance to the 
harbor, is a circular tower 27 feet high, from which is ex¬ 
hibited, at an elevation of 39 feet above the sea, Si fixed red, 
dioptric, fourth-order light, visible 7 miles. It is called the 
Saint-Gilles light. 

The Pilours rock, off Grosse Terre point, S W. by W. J W., BocherPiionrs. 
five sixth of a mile from Garenne point, is 12 feet above 
high water and the rocks extend under water 225 yards to 
the southward and eastward of the uncovered part. 

Under the lee of the Pilours rock, a quarter-mile E3B. Anchorage, 
from it, well sheltered from all winds between NVV., and SE. 
through N., and with good holding-ground, is the outer an¬ 
chorage of Saint-Gilles. The depth is 13 feet at low water, 
yellow sand bottom. 

To reach the outer anchorage, double Pilours rock at Directions, 
some distance, and come-to with that rock bearing N. 62^ 

W., open from Grosse Terre point, and Boisvinet rock N. 

350 E., in line with the house on the beginning of the jetty 
on which stands the light. 

With heavy northwesterly weather, the sea breaks, not Caution, 
only on the Pilours ledge, but also on the Roche Bonneau, 
so it will be necessary to come in close to leeward of the 
former breakers, so as to pass well to windward of the lat¬ 
ter. 


19 N 0 


290 


TIDES—COAST. 


Catition. 


Kiver. 


Tides. 


Coast. 


Laodniarks. 


The southern limit of the Pilours rock is on the align¬ 
ment of Boisvinet rock and Saint-Gilles light, and also that 
of Saint-Hilaire steeple over the eastern extremity of the 
sand beach of Porto. Boisvinet rock, moderately open to 
the northward of the light, leads in clear. 

When the wind is from the northwest the pilots anchor a 
little to the eastward of the cross-bearings given for the 
outer anchorage; they bring the peculiar inclined trees of 
La Corb^liere over the middle of the beach of Porto, and 
the little tower, in the riv^er inside, slightly open from the 
end of the light-jetty. There is a depth there of 13 feet at 
low water. 

With WNW. winds, shelter will have to be found in 
shoaler water farther north. 

The anchorage can only be considered a temporary one 
in case of winds from the westward or the southward, it be¬ 
ing impossible to hold on there against any sea, and the en¬ 
trance to the river being then extremely difficult. 

The Croix-de-Vie river is only practicable for small ves¬ 
sels, 10J feet being the greatest draught that can enter at 
high-water springs. 

The hour and height of high water, full and change, are 
the same as at the Sables d’Olonne. The approximate 
height of the tide can be obtained at any time by measur¬ 
ing with the eye the height of the rocks above water. For 
instance, the top of Boisvinet rock is 13 feet above the 
shoalest bar; if there be 5 feet of it out of water, there will 
be 8 feet on the bar. 

For li miles NW. by N. from Grosse Terre point, the 
coast is rocky, averaging 45 to 50 feet in height, and fringed 
with ledges projecting nowhere more than 330 yards. After 
making a slight inward curve, it then becomes sandy, and 
a large beach extends NW. J W., miles, after which it 
trends away to K. by W., and runs miles to the Pointe 
de Notre Dame de Monts, the southern side of the entrance 
to the inlet of Fromantine, comprised between it and ITle 
Noirmoutier. 

Back of the beach are downs of moderate height. Good 
landmarks are the steeples, the highest and nearest to the 
beach bein*g those of Saint-Hilaire, Saint-Jean de Monts, 
and Notre Dame de Monts. 


LES MARGUERITES—BASSE DE L’AIGLE. 


291 


Off the whole length of coast just described, lies a pla¬ 
teau, with occasional rocky heads, increasing, toward the 
north, ill extent seaward, reaching out as far as 4 miles 
between the elbow, 19J miles from Grosse Terre point, and 
the mouth of Fromantiue inlet. 

To the southward of Saint-Jean de IMonts steeple, the La vigie shoai. 
coast may be approached quite closely in beating, save in 
one place, where the Basse de la Yigie forbids. On this 
shoal are two heads with feet at low water. To remain 
clear of them keep the guard-house of Sauzey open at least 
2® from Pilours rock. 

From the bend in the coast-line, about 1 mile SW. by S. Reef, 
from the church of N. D. de Monts, a ledge projects SW. 
by W., which dries at low water to a distance of miles, 
and IJ miles outside of which (SW. by W.) is another rocky 
head, which also uncovers. 

Les Marguerites area chain of rocks extending to the ^^^^^gueri tes 
westward from the coast abreast of N. 1). de Monts, the 
outer one being 2J miles off* shore. Outside of them is 
rocky bottom at slight depths, the 2J-fathom line being 3| 
miles from the beach ; in a southerly blow the breakers 
extend out that entire distance. These rocks form the NF. 
border of the Pont d’Yeu. 

The Basse de I’Aigle, over which is a least depth of feet, 
is not a particularly dangerous shoal in fine weather, except 
to sailing-vessels beating in its vicinity at low water. It is. 
a rock 1 mile in length north and south, distantmiles 
from the beach. Between it and the shore are not more 
than 19J feet of water, but outside of its western edge are 
depths of 5 to 8 fathoms. The bearings of its summit are 
Noiriuoutier steeple on with the second mill on the Poiute 
de la Loire; and the steeple of N. D. de Monts south of and 
touching the mill just to the westward of it. The two white 
harbor-lights of Port-Bretou lead over the B. edge. 

Fromantiue inlet reaches in between La Fosse point, the ine 

southern extreme of Noirmoutier island, and D. de Monts 
point on the main land. A large shallow bay, fordable at 
every low water, extends to the northward, between the 
island and the coast, to the Bale de Bourgneuf. The inlet 
is not entered by any save small vessels intending to load 
salt in the channel of La Cahoiiette. In the anchorage are 


292 


FROMANTINE INLET. 


depths of 13 to 15 feet of water, but the eutraiice is onl^^ 
practicable at high water, and, therefore, although land¬ 
locked and completely sheltered from all weather, it could 
scarcely ever be used as a port of refuge. 

Tidal currents. currents runs very strong in the channel, attaining 

a speed of G and 7 knots during spring ebb tides, at which 
time the inclination of the surface of the water is very ap¬ 
preciable. Vessels should always moor. 

Entrance. The entrance is recognizable by a fort on the northern 
shore, and the mountains of Fromantine to the southward. 

Landmarks. Besides mills, steeples, and flag-staves for landmarks to 
assist in entering, there are two beacons on La Fosse point, 
a tower on Boisvinet rock, a beacon on a rock in mid-chan¬ 
nel, north of Boisvinet rock, and several buoys. 

Directions. Ou approaching the entrance from the southward, the 
steeple of Barbatre will be visible on Noirmoutier island, 
its spire towering above all the sand-downs. Steer for it N. 
until the two beacons of La Fosse come in line. 

Coming from File d’Yeu, steer away from the base of the 
jetty of Port-Breton, bearing S. 32^ W. tangent to the east¬ 
ern side of the central fort. This course leads clear to the 
eastward of the Basse de FAigle. Or a vessel may keep 
Saint-Sauveur steeple, on He d’Yeu, S. 28^ W., in line 
astern with the large rock 110 yards to the westward of 
Gautier point. 

Coming from the westward it is best to approach with 
Beauvoir steeple to the northward of the most conspicuous 
house on La Fosse point, about E. by N. 

All the above courses lead to within 2 miles of the bea¬ 
cons of La Fosse point, which are then distinctly visible. 
When they come in one, bearing N. 84^ E., keep the align¬ 
ment, which leads over the bar, until the NE. mill of the 
Barre des Monts comes near the end of the pier. Then 
port the helm and bring the mill gradually back to the 
inshore end of the pier, S. 82® E. This course leads to 425 
yards from the pier, when run a short distance to the north¬ 
ward and eastward and anchor in 2 fathoms, (at low water,) 
sand and mud bottom. 

Caution. The flood-tide sets on La Fosse point, and the ebb strong 

on Boisvinet rock and the Banc du Braillard, w^hich always 
break. 


NOIRMOUTIETl ISLAND. 


293 


Xoirinoutier island is 10 miles Ion" NW. by X. and SE. Noir- 

1 Cl 1 • . moutior. 

by fe., and is or an exceedingly irregiilar shape, the width 
across the middle being not more than one-f'onrth mile, 
while near the northern end, at the Pointe de Devin, it is 
2.1 miles. The area of the island is 70 square miles, of 
which one-fifth is cultivated. This latter part is very fer¬ 
tile, the rest of the surface consisting chiefiy of pasture- 
lands and salt marshes. 

The principal productions are salt, corn, beans, and a lit- Protiuotions. 
tie wine. 

The popnlation of the entire island is about 7,000 souls. Population. 
The shores on all sides are studded with dangers. 

From Fromantine inlet, the western coast of Noirmoutier Western coast, 
island, consisting of a continnous line of uncultivated sand- 
downs, runs successively to the NNVV., N\V.,and W., form¬ 
ing a bay about 0 miles acro.ss, called I’Anse de la Gu6riii- 
iere, the NW. extremity being the Pointe de la Loire. 

The Anse de la Gnerinibre, which comprises i)roi)erly Anse de la 

Gu6nni6re. 

only the northern part of the bay formed by the curve in 
the coast, is sometihies entered by small coasters who come 
there to ground. It is very shallow, the 5-fathom line being 
miles from the shore, and the i-fathom line being in 
some places 3J miles off. There are also numerons rocks in 
the almost universal sand bottom, such as the Koches de la 
Loire, to the southward of the point of that name, and Le 
Caillou, miles to the southward and westward of them. 

At a distance of 3 miles NW. from La Loire point is De-, Ppin te de 
vin point, the western extreme of the island. 

The coast then follows a general northerly direction, with 
a slight inward curve, and terminates in the Pointe de 
ITIerbaudiere, the KW. extreme of the island. A life- Life-boat, 
boat is stationed here. 

All this portion of the coast is unapproachable because 
of the numerons outlying rocks. 

The rocks extending off PHerbaudiere and Devin points jjCbau8s6e des 

form the Chaussee des Boenfs, and still bear witness to the 
extent of the island in probably the first centuries of our 
era. In the course of so many years, the sea has gradually 
worn its way inland, separating Pilier island. If the water 
be clear there can still be seen in different places, at various 
depths, the ruins of walls, possibly the last vestiges of the 


294 


CHAUSSilE DES BCEUFS. 


Le Bavard. 


Caution. 


Directions. 


At night. 


Tidal currents 
off the Chau8s6e 
des Bceufs. 


Phceniciau city that was founded olf the mouth of the river 
Loire. 

The Bavard rock is the southernmost of all these, and is 
marked by a large circular stone beacon or tower, fitted 
with an automatic fog-signal. This beacon is of great use 
not only because it is 3 miles from the coast, which at that 
distance is barel^^ visible, but because vessels beating about 
with southerly breezes are often drifted into shallow water 
by the flood-tide, which sets on it, when the reckoning would 
put them several miles off. Rocks uncovering at low water 
extend | mile SSVV. from the beacon. 

Even if the weather be clear and the sea moderate, a 
vessel should not come nearer than 4 miles to the south- 
westward of the Bavard tower; and instead of relying on 
an estimated distance, bearings should be taken of Pilier 
light and Petite Foule light of He d’Yeu. 

To clear the SW. point of the Chaussee des Boeufs and 
keep in 51 fathoms at low water, the Petite Foule light 
should not be let bear to the southward of S. E. while 
to the southward of the alignment of Bavard beacon and 
Noirmoutier castle. Beating about to the westward of the 
plateau, Pilier light should not be brought to bear to the 
northward of N. 40° E. (that is, it should never be open of 
Saint-Gildas point) while to the southward of Bavard bea¬ 
con on with La Loire point or with the mills of Gueriniere. 

At night the Chaussee des Boeufs is easily av^oided by 
observing the changes in the color of Pilier and La Chaise 
lights; while the former shows white^ the vessel will be clear 
of the plateau, but should go about when it shows red. La 
Chaise shows red as long as the vessel is to the westward of 
the plateau, becoming ivliite again miles to the southward 
of Pilier islet. 

The currents off the Chaussee des Boeufs greatly enhance 
the danger of passing close to that shoal. The rotation of 
the tides is such that the flood will drift a vessel on the 
rocks throughout its continuance, as it sets right on them 
instead of following the trend of the coast. 

Off* the Pointe des Boeufs, as the extremity of the shoal is 
called, this rotation is with the sun, or with the hands of a 
watch. In calm weather, at low water, there is a feeble 
current running to the NW., but it quickly increases in 


FILTER ISLAND—LIGHT. 


295 


strength, turning to the north and northeast. The last of 
the flood sets SE., and almost the whole of the ebb to the 
SVV. To the southward of thechaussee the early flood sets 
north, crossing the reef and entering the Loire river, and 
is strengthened by the current of the ebb from Fromantiue 
iulet, which lasting for half an hour after low water, draws 
the waters from the bottom of the bay over the chaussee. 

At a distance of 21 miles VVNW. from I’Herbaudiere point Filler island 
is Pilier island, a low rock 800 yards long NVV. and SE., 
vhich occasionally affords a lee to coasters during W. or 
SW. winds. 


Vessels drawing not more than 9 feet can make Bourg- Passe de 
aeuf bay through a channel between Pilier and [N'oirmou- 
tier islands, called the Passe de la Grise or Passe de I’Her¬ 
baudiere. This channel leads inshore of Les Peres, de¬ 
scribed farther on. 

On the northern point of Pilier islet is a circular tower, pmer^ 35 /j 
97 feet in height, showing a fixed white light, varied by aN. ;'iong. 2° 21' 
flash every 4 minutes^ and with 2 red sectors. One of the 
red sectors covers the Chaussee des Bceufs, being seen 
when between the bearings of K lO^ W. and K 34 ^ E. The 
other covers the Couronn^e shoabto the northeastward, be¬ 
ing seen when between the bearings of S. 18° W. and S. 40^ 

W. The light is elevated 105 feet above sea-level, and is 
dioptric, of the second order; the red rays are visible 14 
miles and the white 16 miles in clear weather. * 

The light-tower is distinguishable from any other by the semaphore, 
presence of a building, surmounted by a semaphore, to the 
southward of it. Geographical number of station B. G. P. T. 

A reef, called the Ohauss4e des Ohevaux, or simply Les Chevauxrocks. 
Chevaux, projects 7 cables to the northward and westward 
from Pilier islet. 

From I’Herbaudiere point the coast extends 2| miles to North coast, 
the eastward, to Poiute des Oharniers, and for 2i miles to 
the northward of it are found rocks and shoal water. 

About midway between these two capes is Pointe de la 
Gardette, the northern extremity of the island. 

Among the shoals off' the north coast of Noirmoutier island 
are the following. 

The Grand and Petit S6c4s are rocks to the northeastward S 6 c 68 . 
of Pilier island^ on the former, IJ miles KE. by E.from Pi- 


29G 


LA CHAISE LIGHT. 


Banc de 
Blanche. 


Basse des 
res. 


lier light, is a red, vTbite and black tower, making an excellent 
beacon, which should nev^er be a*pproached nearer than 1 mile. 

The Banc de la Blanche, to the eastward of the 8ec’^s 
tower, and 2i miles north of Gardette point, is covered by 
only 2 feet at low-water springs; it is limited in the north 
by the range of 8eces beacon a little open to the northward 
of the large rock of the Chevaux group, and in the east b>" 
Les P^res tower in line with ^N^oirmoutier steeple. Coming 
in from seaward, the helm may be put to port immediately 
after passing the latter aligiimeut. 

To the northward of Charniers point are two shoals, called 
respectively the Eoches des P^aes and Basse des P6res, of 
which the latter is the outer, and has a red buoy on its head, 
2 miles N. by E. from Charniers point. On the former is a 
round red beacon, somewhat similar to that of Les S^c^s. 

To the north-northeastward of the Basse des P^res, the 
surveys of Beautemps-Beaupre place another shoal with 
only 11 feet of water, sand bottom. Subsequent searches 
have failed to discover anything less than 15J feet, rocky 
bottom. 

The eastern coast of Noirmoutier island is about 10 miles 
in length, of extremely irregular conformation, and being 
fronted by a bank, fordable at every low water, separating 
Bourgneuf bay from Fromautine inlet, it is unnecessary to 
enter into its details. 

1 . La^Cthaise About IJ miles SE. by E. from Charniers point, is La 

41" N. :‘iong., 2° Chaisc light, which is fixed white, with two red sectors. One 

13' 00" W » ^ ^ ^ 

of the latter illuminates an arc of 29° over the Chaussee des 
Bceufs, showing when between the bearings of N. 80° E. 
and N. 51^ E. The second red sector shows when between the 
bearings of S. i E. and W. by S. It is a dioptric light, 112 
feet above the sea-level, visible 10 miles, and exhibited from 
a square tower 52 feet high, the SE. and SW. faces of which 
are painted red. The light is sometimes called the light of 
Les Dames de Noirmoutier, being on the point of that 
name. 

The town of Noirmoutier is small, and of but little im- 


Eastern coast. 


Town of Xoir- 
inoutier. 


portance, having a population of only 2,500 souls. It is 1^ 
miles S W. from La Chaise light, at the head of a small bay on 
the eastern shore of the island. At low-water springs only 2 


BOURGNEUF BAY—PORNIC LIGHT. 


297 


feet can be taken over the bar, but nearer tlie town the 
depths are G feet greater. * 

Bourgnenf bay is no longer of the same maritime impor- Baiedo Bourg- 
tance as before the introduction of steam-power in naviga 
tion; but still it may be considered from various points of 
view. There are safe anchorages in it for large vessels, in 
bad as well as in good weather, and it is extremely convenient 
for small craft that can rim to the southward inside Noir- 
montier island, and put to sea through Fromantine inlet. 

The eastern shore of Bourgnenf bay, or the coast of the Maiu coast, 
main land, extends about NE. by N. lOf miles, from Fro¬ 
mantine inlet to the anchorage of Bourgneuf, the little town 
of that name being a mile inland. The coast then trends to 
the northwestward 7^ miles, to the little jiort of Pornic, a Pomic. 
large portion of which dries at low water, but which has 
nevertheless attained some importance, being a resort for 
sea-bathers. Signals showing the height of the tide are 
made from the flag-staff’ near the light. 

On La Noveillarde point, the western extremity of 
entrance to the harbor of Pornic, is a square tower, 36 feetx.; loug. 2 ^ o?' 

^ 02'' W 

high, with dwelling attached, from which is shown a fixed 
tvhite, dioptric, fourth-order light, elevated GG feet above 
sea-level, visible 10 miles. 

At Pornic the coast becomes somewhat higher, and runs saint-Giidaa 
W. by N. miles to Saint-Gildas point, the northern 
tremity of the mouth of Bourgneuf bay, and the southern 
of the mouth of the river Loire. It is distinguishable by a 
semaphore. 

The navigation of the extensive bay of Bourgneuf is Dangers, 
much impeded by rocks and shoals. 

La Oouronnee shoal, 21 miles WSW. from Saint-Gildas Basse La Con. 

' “ rounee. 

point, was the scene of not a few marine disasters before 
the establishment of the red ray of Pilier light. One rocky 
head protrudes about G feet above low water, and on sev¬ 
eral adjacent spots are depths of only 5 to 8 feet. The bear¬ 
ings of the principal head are the guard-house of Bedauni 
N. G0<^ 30' E., under a mill on the coast 2 miles XE. of Sainf- 
Gildas point, and a rock, called the Pierre Perc^e, N. 13^ 

40' \V., a little open to the westward of the downs of Escou- 
blac, on the northern shore of the entrance to the Loire. 


298 


EOCKS A^’D SHOALS. 


Buoy. 


Banc d e 8 
Eerouars. 


Basse X o t r e 
Dame. 


Beacons. 


Pierre-Moine. 


Pierre du Che- 
naL 


Head of the 
bay. 


Tidal currents. 


The shoal is marked by a large buoy a little to the westward 
of it. 

The white spire of La Plaine, on with a point a little to the 
southward of Saiiit-Gildas semaphore, leads clear to the 
northward. With the steeple over the semaphore, the 
course can be kept right on up to the shore. 

Kerouars bank is in a line of shoals extending to the 
eastward of La Couronnee, parallel to the coast. Its total 
length, including the latter rock, is'5^ miles, with an average 
width of one half mile, and general depths varying from 1 
to 3 fathoms, over sand; there are several patches, how¬ 
ever, of rock, at 3 to 4 feet. 

The beacon of Xotre Dame bank, bearing S. 85° E. in 
line with the white steeple of La Bernerie beyond, leads 
clear to the southward. 

To the northward of the bank, the depths off Saint-Gil- 
das point are as great as 6 fathoms, diminishing gradually 
to 3 fathoms near the eastern end. 

Immediately in front of Poruic is a bank called the Basse 
^otre Dame, the western extremity of which is L mile ESB. 
of Kerouars bank It consists of a series of rocks, many 
of which uncover at low water, which skirt the coast at a 
distance of miles. There is no passage inshore of the 
eastern end, because of the projection of rocky ledges, 
called the Boches de la Bernerie. 

There is a beacon on La Dame bank, and another on Le 
Caillou, a rock to the eastward of it, but practically form¬ 
ing one of the chain. 

The Pierre-Moine is a somewhat dangerous rock 2i miles 
KE. from Charniers point, with a circular tower built upon 
it, making a good landmark in the daytime. The top of 
the rock is 3 feet above the highest springs. 

The Pierre du Chenal is an outlying rock, drying 2 feet 
at low water, 2i miles S3W. from Pornic light. 

The head of Bourgneuf bay, from a little SB. of Pornic, 
is bordered all around with shallow water, and the south¬ 
ern part dries at low-water springs. 

The action of the tides in the bay is very similar to thit 
in the Pertuis d’Antioche, Fromantine inlet (like the Per- 
tuis de Maumusson) giving passage to a tide-wave less high 
than the one that doubles the north end of the island. 


CUERENTS—ANCHORAGES. 


299 


Id the middle of the bay the currents flow to every point 
of the compass-card, turning with the hands of a watch. At 
half-flood it sets east with a speed of 1 knot, which dimin¬ 
ishes as the direction changes to south. 

The half-ebb flows west with a velocity slightly greater 


Tn the middle 
of the bay. 


than that of the flood. 

There is high, as well as low, slack water. 

In the northern part of the bay, near Saint-Oildas point, point*”* 
they reach their maximum velocity, of 2 knots, flowing 
parallel with the coast, that is, E3E. during the flood and 
WXW. during the ebb-tide. The latter continues to make 
for half an hour after low water. 

Advancing into the bay^ the currents have a tendency 
to follow the general direction of the rocks and shoals. 

Near La Chaise anchorage they follow the coast line; the 
ebb begins to make before high water. 

It is high water, full and change, at Noirmoutier, at 3** Tide*. 

2“. Mean spring rise, 16 feet; mean neap rise, 11^ feet; 
mean neap range, 7 feet. 

Toward the head of the bay the heights of the tide in¬ 
crease, being 1 foot greater at springs in the channels of 
Le Colet than oft’ La Chaise light. 

There is also considerable retardation in the propagation Retardation, 
of the tide-wave throughout the bay. At Poruic high water 
occurs at the same moment as at La Chaise, but at the head 
of the bay it takes place 20 minutes later. 

There are three excellent anchorages for large vessels in 
Bourgneuf bay: 1st, south of Pierre-Moiue; 2d, in the 
Chenal du Centre; 3d, in Le Fain. The last is the safest of 
the three, but can be reached only at high water by vessels 
drawing 29J feet. The anchorage of La Chaise is very con¬ 
venient for vessels of lighter draught. 

In the anchorage south of Pierre Moine is a depth of 5.1 
fathoms at low water, over sand and mud, on the cross¬ 
bearings of Les Peres beacon in one with Pilier light tower, 
and Pierre-Moine tower in line with the semaphore on Saint- 
Gildas point. 

For large vessels the anchorage is very good during all 
bad weather save a XW. gale, which would raise quite a 
heavy sea between there and Croisic. Vessels so large as 
not to be able to cross the bar of the Loire in heavy weather 
find this a convenient, as well as safe, port of refuge. 


300 


DIRECTIONS. 


Directions. Heading in from seaward, having made Pilier islet and 
Gildas point, (both of which are recognizable by a serna- 
l)hore,) steer for the latter 50^ E. if it be smooth weather 
and high water ; otherwise bring the steeple of La Plaiiie 
(the spire of which is white) to bear N. 68^ E. over the vil¬ 
lage of Prefailles. The latter range leads clear to the 
northward of the plateau forming the base of Pilier islet 
and the other rocks in its vicinity. Whichever of the two 
ranges be used, when the tower on Pierre-Moine bears mid¬ 
way between Bourgneuf and Bonin steeples, both of which 
are distinctly visible at the head of the bay, port the helm 
to steer S. 74° E. for Pierre-Moine. When about 3 cables 
from it, head for Beauvoir steeple, about SE. by S., and 
anchor after making half a mile on that course. 

Atnight. night, head in on the alignment of the fixed white light 

of Aiguillon, and the ichite fixed and fiash light of Com¬ 
merce, on the north side of the mouth of the Loire, until 
the fixed white W^ht of hs, Chaise comes in line with the 
white fixed and fiash light on Pilier. Then change the 
course to N. G7Q E. for 5 miles, after w hich a S. 66® E. 
course will lead toward Pierre-Moine. 

Should the weather be clear enough to see the beacon on 
the latter, anchor 3 cables to the southward of it. In dark 
weather, the minute La Chaise light show's red, change 
course from S. GO® E. to SE., run three-fourths of a mile, and 
anchor. 

Using the sex- being rather delicate work to make all these different 

taut. ^ 

courses, even though the compasses be excellent, and also 
difficult to make proper allowance for the tide in running 
the distances given, the use of a sextant wmuld simplify 
matters very much. With this intention, keep on the range 
of the Aiguillon and Commerce lights, and only i)ut the 
helm a-port in time to head SE. for La Chaise light, with 
La Banche exactly astern, (the two being on tnat bearing 
from each other.) Then clamp the vernier of the sextant 
at 880 and observe La Chaise and Pilier lights. When 
they coincide in the horizon glass, which will be when the 
latter shows white again after the red sector is passed, star¬ 
board the helm and steer E., then E. by S., ESE., and so 
on to SSE., keeping the two lights in oue in the horizon- 


ANCHORAGES. 


301 


glass. An arc of a circle will thus he described, without 
fear of error. 

Come-to when Pilier light bears west. 

The Cheual du Centre is long but quite narrow, and ou Anchora<:p in 
that account is hardly practicable by uight. The eastern centre!^ 
part of it is the best sheltered and can be reached by pass¬ 
ing either to the northward or to the southward of Pierre- 
Moiue. In the former caseoj fathoms will be the least water 
found, while in the latter, a 20-foot bank will have to be 
crossed to the SE. of Pierre Moine. 

To pass to the southward of Pierre-Moine steer for that Directions, 
beacon, S. 74^ E., midway between Bonin and Bourgneuf 
steeples, until about 3 cables from it. Then round it gradu¬ 
ally, keeping at the same approximate distance, and steer 
S. 86° E for the steeple of Saint-Gyr-en-lletz, which will first 
appear on the horizon, over the northern extremity of the 
woods of Colet, anchoring when Pornic light-tower passes 
to the left of La Motte mill, the highest in that neighbor¬ 
hood. 

The depth on that cross-bearing is 8 to 9 fathoms. 

To pass to the northward of Pierre-Moine, approach as 
before, rounding to the northward of the beacon, and theu 
steering S. 33'^ E., with Cuerande steeple astern over, the 
semaphore on Saint-Gildas point. When Les Peres tower 
comes in line with Pilier light, starboard the helm and 
steer S. 88*^ E. for 2 cables, and finally port the helm just 
a little to anchor on the ranges given above. 

This anchorage is better than that of Pierre-Moine dur¬ 
ing NW. winds, as the shoals break the force of the sea. 

The anchorage in Le Fain, an extension of deep water Le Fain an 
into the sands of the southern portion of the bay, will berth 
large vessels, but whatever channel be taken to reach it, a 
bar has to be crossed. 

By taking the centre channel, 16.J feet will be the least 
depth found at low-water springs j if the Chenal de la Pierre 
be taken, 15f feet will be found. 

If it be decided to use the former, approach Pierre-Moine, fhe che^ 
as directed above, and leave it to the northward, heading du centre, 
for Saint-Cyr steeple over the middle of the woods of Colet. 

Keep this alignment until Le Caillou beacon comes in line 
’ with the mill of La Motte at Pornic. Then steer S. 48^ E. 


302 


DIRECTIONS—ANCHORAGES. 


for the steeple of Bouin ; the outer beacon off the channel 
of Les Brochets should be open 1° to the left of the steeple, 
but as it is not distinctly visible it may be necessary to rely 
on the compasses. The last range leads over the 16J-foot 
bar in a place where the channel is yery narrow. 

When La Motte mill is seen above and between two 
houses that will be seen quite near each other, steer away 
on that range and anchor when Saint Oyr steeple touches 
the northern edge of La Goupelasse mill. 

The depth there is 5J fathoms over mud. 

E n t ering route through the Chenal de la Pierre has the ad- 

tbrcmgh the Che- ® 

nai de la Pierre, vantage of lieing made on easier ranges. From the offing 
steer E. for the steeple of La Bernerie, passing IJ miles N. 
of Pierre-Moine. On approaching the former it will be 
seen to be over the beacon of Le Oaillou. 

Vv^hen three-fourths mile from the latter, port the helm 
and steer S. 37° E. away from the steeple of La Plaine over 
Notre Dame beacon. Three miles on this course will bring 
the beacon of Longeterre slightly open to the westward of the 
mill of Malchaussee. Keep the two latter in that relative 
liosition, and after passing the bar, with depths of 15J feet, 
(at low water,) make the alignment perfect, and anchor on 
the cross-bearing of Saint-Oyr steeple touching the N. edge 
of Goupelasse mill. 

The anchorage in Le Fain is safe in all weathers, and 
large enough to berth several vessels of heavy tonnage. 
The currents never exceed knots in strength. 

Gommunication with the shore is made at half-tide in the 
channels of La Louippe and Les Brochets. 

BotJdJrJtfhaire^ anchorage of Bois de la Ghaise is a depth of 16J 

feet, and it has the advantage of being more immediately 
under the lee of Noirmoutier island. 

Directions. Entering Bourgneuf bay in ordinary weather, it will 
suffice to pass 1 mile to the northward of Pilier island and 
the Sec4s tower, but in heavy weather it would be advisable 
to give them a wider berth. In northwesterly weather they 
should not be approached nearer than 2 miles—keeping La 
Plaine steeple N. 68^ E. over Prefailles village ; then steer 
, for Pierre-Moine beacon, midway between Bouin and Bourg¬ 

neuf steeples, until La Ghaise light-tower passes over the 
Tour Plantier, a tall cylindrical structure near the shore. 


D1RE(1T10NS—RIVER LOIRE, 


303 


This latter ran^e, SSE., leads iu to the westward of the 
Basse des Peres. 

To take a vessel in drawing* 14 or 15 feet, the last align¬ 
ment should be left before La Blanche ruin (E. of La Gar- 
dette point) comes in line with the mill of l-llerbaudiere, 
and the course should be shaped to bring La Chaise light 
2.J points off the starboard bow, letting go the anchor when 
Pierre-Moine beacon is in range with La Plaine steeple 
beyond. 

Follow the directions given for using the sextant in en- At night, 
teriug the anchorage of Pierre-Moine, coming to when 
Pilier light is shut iu by Oharuiers (or La Madeleine) point. 

In case the weather be clear and it be preferred to use 
the compass, leave the alignment of Le Commerce and 
I’Aguillon lights, when those of Pilier and La Chaise are in 
one, steering N. 70*^ E. for 4 miles, or until Pilier light shows 
red. Then steer E., with Pornic light 1 point off‘ the port 
bow until that of La Chaise bears S. by E. and begins to 
show red^ which will be after making about4J miles. Change 
course immediately, heading for the latter light and keeping 
as nearly as possible on the limit of the uncertain light 
separating the white and red sectors. Anchor before Pilier 
light is hidden. 

The Banc de la Chaise is the northern limit of thean-^i^a chaise 

bank. 

chorage and has but 3 feet on one head at low water. The 
bearings of that shoal spot are: IN'oirmoutier steeple, (seen 
from the rigging,) between Le Cob point and Plantier tower, 
and La Plaine steeple touching the western extremity of 
the rocks of Pierre-Moine. 

By keeping Noirmoutier steeple in line with La Chaise 
light the bank will be crossed with a least depth of 14J feet. 

To the southeastward the soundings increase gradually. The 
mills of Nicou shut in by Saint-Pierre point, lead in to the 
westward of it. 

The river Loire, the longest in France, rises at the foot 
of Gerbier des Jones, among the Cev^enues mountains, iu 
the department of Ardeche, and flows in a general north¬ 
westerly direction to the city of Orleans, when it bends some¬ 
what to the southward, and after a total course of upward 
of 600 miles, falls into the bay of Biscay. 

In its upper course the river is a romantic mountain tor- 


304 


KIVER LOIRE. 


Dangers, 


Mouth. 


Les Charpen 
tiers. 


rent j as it descends, its valley widens and embraces exten¬ 
sive plains, so richly covered with orchards, vineyards, and 
corn-fields, that they bave justly received the name of the 
garden of France. The basin of the river is estimated as 
one-fourth part of the whole republic. 

It becomes navigable at Koanne, about 450 miles from 
tbe mouth, and passes the flourishing towns of Orleans, 
Blois, Tours, Saumur, and Nantes. The navigation is in¬ 
terrupted, however, during 4 or 5 months in the year by 
frosts and by floods. To obviate some of the difficulties 
incidental to the navigation, a lateral canal, 123 miles long, 
has been cut along part of its course, extending from the 
Canal du Centre to the Canal du Briare. The Loire com¬ 
municates with the Bhone and Seine, also, by means of 
canals. Its affluents are numerous and important, many of 
them being navigable; those on the right are the Arroux, 
Nievre, Maine, (formed by the union of the Mayenne and the 
Sarthe;) on the left the Alliet, Loiret, Cher, ludre, Vienne, 
Thoue, and Sevre-Nantaise. 

To prevent the Loire from spreading over the low grounds 
along its course, it has been banked in by dikes, built much 
above its ordinary level. These dikes were never known 
to give way previous to the great floods of 1846; they also 
gave in at the same place in 1856, carrying away the bridge 
and village of Savounieres, inundating the communes of 
La Riche Extra and La Chapelle-aux-Naux, causing a dread¬ 
ful loss of life and property. 

Besides the numerous permanent banks and islands in the 
river, the soil brought down by the current forms shifting 
banks which greatly impede navigation and necessitate 
taking at least a river-pilot. 

The mouth of the Loire is 6J miles wide from Saint Gil- 
das point to Pointe de Chemoulin opposite, though the en¬ 
trance may well be considered as being embraced by the 
former and the Pointe du Croisic, 15.J miles NW. J W. 
The river bar is between the two former. 

In the mouth are many shoals which greatly diminish the 
working room. 

At the distance of one-half mile SSW. from Chemoulin 
point is the bank of Les Charpentiers, forming the northern 
limit of the river barj the bottom is sand at 7 feet on the 


BANKS—PAIMBOEUF AND MI^ANS LIGHTS. 


305 


outer edge. In the \Cestern part, bearing respectively south 
and north from each other, are Le Grand Oharpentier and 
Le Petit Oharpentier, both of which uncover at low water, 
and on each of which is a black tower-beacon. 

At about three-fourths of a mile NW. by N. from Le Grand i-ongne Foiie. 
Oharpentier is a sand bank called the Longue Folle, with 5 
feet of water on it. It is a connecting link between the 
Oharpentiers and the chain ot‘ rocks extending to the south¬ 


eastward of Pain Ohateau. 

On the SE. part of the bar is the Roche-du-Vert, with 5J Roche dn-Vert. 
feet on it. One hundred and forty yards WSW. of the 
shoalest spot is a red buoy. 

The i)lateau of Les Jardinets coinprises 4 rocky heads, Lea Jardinets. 
the eastern and western of which uncover respectively 
and 2.J feet. Being to the southward and eastward of Le 
Yert, it is not much to be feared by vessels even beat¬ 
ing in. 

La Trnie rock stands in 9 feet of water, miles east of RaTruie. 

Les Jardinets, and is made more conspicuous by a beacon. 

The Banc des Moiees forms the SE. limit of the channeldes mo- 
np to abreast of Ville-es-Martin ; on the NE. head is a round 
tower-beacon, called the Tour des Morees. The depths on 
the bank vary from 1 to 9 feet. 

The ebb-tide is very apt to set a v^essel on the Banc des Caution. 
Morees; the drift should be carefully watched. 

The southern shore of the river runs from Saint-Gildas Mindin point, 
point, which is recognizable by a semaphore, 2J miles NE., 
and after an inward curve continues nearly north 6^ miles 
to the point and fort of Mindin, opjiosite the town of Saint- 
Nazaire. Tliis is sometimes called the mouth proper of the 
river, the width being miles. It is proposed to establish 
a fixed u'hite light here, which would be v^ery welcome to 
navigators. 

As it is, the first light on the southern shore of the Loire, 
is on the extremity of a mole at Paimboenf, 4f miles ENE. 25 " n.; long. 2“ 

E. from Mindin point. Id is a fixed white light, 23 feet 
above sea-level, visible 8 miles, exhibited from a ci. cular 
stone tower. The illuminating apparatus is dioptric of the 
foni th order. 


At Means are two harbor-lights; one, exhibited from the 470 “le^^ol" 
church-tower, 34 feet high, is a fixed white light, 37 feet above w.^^is.iy t. 


20 N C 


306 


LOIRE RIVER LIGHTS. 


Saint - Nazaire 
lifrht: Lat.47oifi' 
IH" N.; long. 2° 
11' 5C" W. 


Basin lights. 


Ville 68-Martin 
ligtt: Lat. 470 15' 
21" N.; long. 2° 
13' 46" W. 


Tonr dn Com¬ 
merce light: Lat. 
47° 15' 28" N.; 
long. 2° 15'04" W. 


sea level, visible 5 miles. The other, exhibited from an 
iron post, 18 feet higli, 348 feet eastward from the former, 
is a fixed red light, 2i) feet above sea-level, visible 5 miles. 
The illuminating apfiaratns of each is dioptric, in line, the 
two lights lead into the harbor. 

On the new mole head of Saint Nazaire is a circular tower 
18 feet high, exhibiting, at an elevation of 26 feet above the 
level of the sea, a fixed white dioptric light of the fourth 
order, visible 8 miles. 

On either side of the entrance to the basin is also a small 
light; one red and the other green. 

On the point at Ville-es-Martin, If miles SW. by S. from 
Saint-Nazaire light, is a red revolving light, attaining its 
greatest brilliancy every 30 seconds. It is a dioptric light 
of the third order, visible 12 miles, elevated 33 feet above 
sea-level, exhibited from a circular stone tower, 41 feet high; 
within 4 miles the eclipses are not total. 

The Tour du Commerce is a circular structure 108 feet 
high, from which is exhibited, at an elevation of 197 feet, a 
white light, fixed but varied every 2 minutes by a flash, pre¬ 
ceded and followed by a short eclipse. These eclii>ses are 
not total within 6 miles in ordinary weather. The illumi¬ 
nating apparatus is dioptric, of the third order; the light is 
visible 14 miles. 


Tour d’Aiguii- At a distauce of 2,144 yards S. 32^ W. from the Tour du 

Ion light: Lat. ^ 

47° 14' 33" N.; Commerce is the Tour d’Aiguillon, a circular structure, 67 

long. 2° 15' 51" 

w. feet high, showing a fixed white light, elevated 118 feet above 

sea level, visible 14 miles. The illuminating apparatus is 
dioptric, fourth order. 

Pointedei’Eve About 325 yards S. 70° W. from the latter, on the Pointe 

30" X.; long. 2 ode I’Eve, is infixed red. catoptric, fourth-order light, 103 feet 

16' 05" W 7 ./ , . , 7 

above sea-level, visible 9 miles, exhibited from a watch- 
tower 10 feet high. This light only illuminates an arc of 
30°, being visible iu the WSW. from the channel of Ville es- 
Martin. By keeping it masked by the Tour d’Aiguillou a 
vessel remains in mid-channel. A black buoy marks the 
extremity of the bank of Pointe de FEve. 

Proposedligi ts. At PieiTe-AF.Oeil is a stone tower, from which it is pro¬ 
posed to show a fixed tchite light. On File Saint-Nicolas, 
nearly midway between Mindiii point and Paimboeuf, is a 


LE POULIGUEN LIGHT—LA BANCHE. 


307 


circular stone tower from which it is proposed to exhibit a 
fixed red light. 

At a distance of IJ miles ESE. J E. from Pointe de I’Eve Coast, 
is Chemoiilin point, marked by a semaphore. The dwelling 
of the semaphore is painted yellow. Geographical num¬ 
ber, B. R. S. P. The coast from there trends to the north¬ 
ward and westward to Le Pouliguen, rounding back to the 
southward to Pain Chateau point, forming a rather shallow 
bay. This coast, composed of extensive sand-downs, back 
of which are to be seen the mill and church of Escoublac, 
is fringed by a chain of rocks from to 2 miles otf shore, 
extending to the SE. from Pain Chateau point. One of 
these, La Pierre Percee, 2 miles WSW. ^ W. from Ch^mou- 
lin point, is frequently used as a landmark. It derives its 
name from the peculiar aperture through it, reaching some 
distance above high water. Its top is 30 feet above low 
water. 

On the extremity of the jetty, at Le Pouliguen, is a : Lat! 4 ^ 1 "' 

icliite^ dioptric light, elevated 23 feet above sea-lev^el, visi- 
ble 5 miles, exhibited from a lamp-post 18 feet high. Its 
arc of visibility is limited by Chemoulin and Pain Cha¬ 
teau points. 

La Banche bank, right off the entrance to the river, is an LaSanche. 
extremely dangerous place. It is 3§ miles long NW. and 
SE., and about 1^ miles broad, marked by a light on Le Turc 
rock, and a small tower to the northwestward of the light. 

At the NW. extremity of the plateau is a rock, called, RochednN.o. 
from its relative position, Roche du N. O., marked by a red 
buoy. Over it is a depth of feet, and its bearings are 
the steeple of Escoublac, just inside Pain Chateau point; 
and La Banche tower (not the light-tower) open to the 
westward of the woods of La Chaise on Noirmoutier island, 
and nearly touching the light-tower on Le Turc. 

At the SE. extremity is also a rock, named the Roche du Roche du s.e. 
S. E. It is li miles ESE. from the light-tower, and has 7J 
feet on it at low water. It is to be marked by a black buoy. 

The ranges are Pierre-Perc6e, under the mill of Poulhaut, 

NE. by E. J E., and Gu^rande steeple, over that of Saille. 

Aiguillon light is also over Petit Charpentier tower. 

The other rocks are Le Turc and Les Trois Pierres. The 
former dries 10 feet at low water. The latter, extending 


308 


LA BA.NCHE LIGHT—LA LAMBARDE. 


27' 50" W. 


La Lambard*. 


from 1 to If miles to the northwestward of Le Turc, also 
uncover 10 feet. The depths over the remainder of the 
plateau are very variable, some spots showing at low water 
and others being at 3 fathoms. 

La Bancbe Oil Le Tuic rock, of La Banche shoal, is a fixed red light, 
39" N.; loug., 2° elevated 70 feet above the level of the S(‘a, visible 10 miles, 
exhibited from a stone tower 87 feet high. The pilots say 
the light is poor; and, in point of fact, its height above 
water would admit of its being seen several miles beyond 
its actual range. 

To the southward, westward, and northwestward of La 
Banche are three shoal spots, called the Basse du Turc, 
Basse de I’Astrolabe, and Basse Milhaud, covered respect¬ 
ively by 5, 4J, and 4J fathoms water, and, respectively. If 
miles S. 25o W., 3f miles 8. 85o W., and 5^ miles N. 62o W. 
from La Banche light. 

La Lambarde bank, which is If miles long, is just out¬ 
side the line between Saint-Gildas and Oroisic points, 5 
miles from the former, and lies to the eastward of Le Turc 
rock. It is separated from the SE. rock of La Banche by a 
channel 2 miles wide. One head dries 2 feet at low water, 
but on the others are depths of 8 and 11 feet. The ranges of 
the former are Saint-Nazaire steeple, N. 50^ E., open about 2^ 
to the southward of Aignillon tower, and the light-tower of 
La Banche, 3| miles N. 86° W. Off the SE. extremity is a 
bell-buoy. 

About 1 mile eastward of the buoy is the wreck of the 
English steamer Nada, indicated by another buoy, painted 
with black and red horizontal stripes. 

From Pain Chateau point the coast runs 5f miles to the 
WNW., to Croisic point, and is tolerably clean, the Basse 
Lovre being the only rock to be found at any distance from 
the shore. The latter is 7 cables from the coast, bearing 
SW. by S. from the steeple of Bats. It is buoyed, and 
has 3 feet on it at low water. 

Oroisic point is rather low, as is also the neighboring 
coast, but several landmarks distinguish it perfectly, among 
which are the tall, pointed spire of Guerande, far inland, 
the tower of B^ts church, quite near the coast, 3 miles S. 
720 E, from Croisic point, and Croisic steeple. 

To the NW. by W. of the point are many outlying du- 


Wreck. 


Coast. 


Basse Lovre. 


Croisic point. 


Landmarks. 


CROISIC AND LE FOUR LIGHTS. 


309 


gers. The Basse Castouillet, composed of a cluster of rocks, 
projects 1 mile to the uorthvvestward ot it, with no channel 
inshore. 

The Basse Hikeric is a rock 1 mile to the westward of 
the latter, and is but little above the level of the adjacent 
mud and clay bottom, having 27 feet on it at low water. 

At a distance of 192 yards NNW. from the church of croisic lights: 
Croisic is a fixed ivhite, catoptric, fourth-order light, 13 feet iong /20 
above sea level, visible 6 miles, exhibited from a pole 20 feet®^ ' 
high. South southeast 50 yards from it is a similar light, 

33 feet above sea-level, visible 12 miles, exhibited also from 
a pole 20 feet high. They only illuminate an arc of 15^, 
and when in line SSE., lead over the tail of the Crasse du 
Grand Mabon. 

On the extremity of Tiehic jetty is a stone tower, 34 feet Trehic jetty 
high, showing, at an elevation of 39 feet above sea-level, 
fixed red light, with a white sector. The ray shows 
when between the bearings of E. J S. and SE. J S. The 
illuminating apparatus is dioptric, of the fourth order. The 
light is visible 10 miles. It is screened by the land when 
bearing north of NE. 

The Plateau du Four lies from 3J to 4J miles to the west- Plateau du 
ward of Croisic point. It is 3 miles long N. and S., and If 
miles broad, the rock, at 5^ fathoms, changing suddenly to 
niud and clay at 9 fathoms inshore and 16 fathoms outside 
of it. On the plateau are a number of very shoal patches, 
at depths of 4 to 13 feet, and in the northern part is a 
long rock, uncovering at low water. On the N W. extremity 
of the plateau is the Bonen du Four, marked by a buoy. 

On the long rock in the northern part of the Plateau du LeFour light: 
Four is a circular tower, 92 feet high, showing a n. long. 2° 38' 

11// T;y 

revolving light, attaining its greatest brilliancy every 30 
seconds. The illuminatiug apparatus is dioptric, of the sec¬ 
ond order, and the light, elevated 79 feet above sea-level, 
is visible 18 miles. In ordinary weather the eclipses are 
not total within 8 miles. 

Just clear of the southern border of the Plateau du Four 
is a 5-foot shoal, marked by a black bell-buoy on the south 
edge. It is called the Gouevas. 

The Banc de Gu^rande is a rocky plateau, 5J miles de Gu6- 

length i^NW. and SSE., situated to the southward and 


310 


RIVER BAR—TIDES. 


westward of Le Four. l!^"othing less than 5J fathoms will 
be found on it, except ov^er the Basse Capella, the northern 
extreme. Over the latter the depth is 3§ fathoms at low 
water. 

Northwest of it are the Basse Fournier and Basse Guerin, 
whose rocky bottom is but slightly elevated above the sand, 
gravel, and clay in the vicinity. 

Bar of the Ths bar whicli has to be crosscd to enter the river Loire 
is between Ohemoulin and Saiot-Gildas points, the outer 
edge being IJ miles to the southward of the former. It is 
ordinarily called the Barre des Charpentiers, from the 
bank that limits it in the W. The least depth at low-water 
springs is Ilf feet, but at high-water springs there is some¬ 
times a depth of fathoms. The time of high water is 15 
minutes before that at Saint-Nazaire, and the height is 
practically the same. The height of low water is sometimes 
a little less than that of Saint-Nazaire. 

Tides. It is high Water, full and change, at Saint-Nazaire at 

3^' 40™. Mean spring rise 16 feet; mean neap rise llj feet; 
mean neap range 7 feet. Springs sometimes rise 20 feet. 

Following is a table giving the different heights of high 
water at different points in the river, and the retardation in 
the propagation of the tide: 



Saint-Na¬ 

zaire. 

Paimboeuf. 

Migron. 

P61erin. 

Basse - In- 
dre. 

Nantes. 

Times .. 

Heights. 

h. m. 

0 00 

(18 feet. 

< 16. 4 feet. 

(13 feet. 

h. m. 

0 45 ret. 
19. 2 feet. 
17.3 feet. 
13. 2 feet. 

h. m. 

1 00 ret. 
19. 0 feet. 
17. 2 feet. 
13.2 feet. 

h. m. 

1 30 ret. 
19. 0 feet. 
17. 2 feet. 
13.2 feet. 

h. 7n. 

1 55 ret. 
19. 0 feet. 
17.2 feet. 
13.1 feet. 

h. m. 

2 25 ret. 
18.8 feet. 
17. 0 feet. 
13.1 feet. 


The heights given obtain only when the river is tolerably 
low; during a rise in the river they would be very different. 
The retardation is not much affected. 

Tidal currents It may be generally stated that the tides enter the Loire 

off the mouth. 

principally through the southern channel and go out through 
the northern. But this general set is greatly influenced, 
and at times even nullified, by various causes. 

Flood-tide. lu the Cheiial du Nord, abreast of Bats, the early flood 
runs ESE., and off the SE. point of Le Four, ENE., the 
line from Gouevas buoy to Bats church seeming to be the 
line of demarcation between the two currents, influenced 










TIDES. 


311 


on one hand by Quiberon bay to the northward, and on the 
other by the Loire. 

Off the rocks inclosing Pouliguen bay, the flood has a 
tendency northeastward ; oil the Gharpentiers bar, it sets 
ENE. and E., while farther S., being influenced by Bourg- 
ueiif bay, it runs to the eastward and sometimes even to 
the southeastward. 

The winds also affect the set of the currents. With a 
northeasterly wind, if a vessel, beating, were to be off' Le 
Four plateau during the early flood, it would be advisable 
to make a long board to the northward of it, as the tide 
would set her more to windward there than would be the 
case oft* La Banche. But with E. or BE. winds the strength 
of the easterly current would be greatest to the southward 
of the latter. 

During the ebb-tide the currents follow very similar rules. Ebb-tide. 

In the northern channel the direction is steady at NW., 
while to the southward of Le Four rocks it runs WBW., 

WNW., and finally NW., when it attains its maximum 
speed of 2^ knots. 

Abreast of Pouliguen, during the first hour, the set of 
the ebb is influenced by the waters of that bay, being at 
first SSW., then W., and NW. South of Les Charpeutiers 
it flows SW. for 3 hours, finishing at W. 

It follows that vessels beating out against NW. winds, 
with the ebb-tide, would do well to take the northern chan¬ 
nel, as the whole tide sets to windward. With southerly 
winds Pilier islet should be hugged. 

The turn of the tide takes place practically at the same Turn of the 
time everywhere in this immediate vicinity. It is slack 
water for 40 minutes after low water, and only for a few 
minutes after high w^ater, outside the mouth of the river. 

During neap-tides the currents outside have a velocity of strength, 
only 1 or IJ knots, in place of 2 and 2J knots at springs. 

It is a noticeable fact that the surface current of the ebb 
is stronger than the same of the flood, and that the direc¬ 
tions of the lower currents precede by a half-hour those of 
the surface currents, the turning of the tides at the bottom 
of the channels taking place exactly at high and low water. 

The flood-tide has a tendency to set on and near Mindin currents in the 
point, and the ebb-tide to follow the north shore. Near Le”^®’^‘ 


31^ 


GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 


General direc 
t i o n 8 for ap 
preaching t h t 
coast. 


Caution. 


Pointeau (a cape 2 miles south of Mindin) the current sets 
to the northward for 7 hours, and there are only 5 hours of 
ebb. At Saint-Nazaire and* Bonne Anse, the ebb runs for 
hours. 

So that vessels beating in with the flood-tide should stand 
•on as far as possible toward the shore between Saint-Gildas 
and Mindin points. 

At springs, during a rise in the river, the ebb runs at the 
rate of 5 knots past Saint-Nazaire, setting on the Vignettes 
and Morses banks; under those ciicumstances a sailing- 
vessel should not get under way without a good, steady 
working breeze. 

The only danger to be looked out for during the flood tide 
is, that it may drift a vessel on the Basse de Saint-Nazaire, 
off that town. 

During heavy freshets in the river, the surface current of 
the ebb does not turn at all during the day, but the salt un- 
'dercurrent of the flood works up and will swing ships of 
large draught. 

Neither the time nor height of high water at Saint-Na- 
zaire is much influenced by the rising of the river. The 
height of low water only is slightly increased. 

The advantages of making Belle-He are so great that all 
> vessels approaching the coast should endeavor to make that 
land-fall. The advantages are, that they would be ap¬ 
proaching a bold coast with no outlying dangers; that in 
case of a gale coming on, they would be within striking dis¬ 
tance of a good lee, from which communication can be bad 
by signals with their agents, and that the range of Belle- 
Ile light is 27 miles. 

Under certain circumstances certain precautions have 
to be taken. With the wind from S. or SE., the course 
should be shaped on a parallel 6 miles south of that of Belle- 
Ile light, the current in the offing making about that much 
in one tide. If the wind be in the east or in the west, the 
northerly drift will be 2 or 3 miles, and allowance should be 
made for that much ; finally, in case of a NW. breeze, the 
drift would be little or nothing. 

In case of good clear weather, and if the position be well 
established, either Pilier or Belle-He lights could be made 
by a sailing-vessel, according to the direction of the wind. 


DIRECTIONS. 


313 


Making the land-fall during the day-time, Belle-Ile will 
appear, at 20 miles distance, to be divided into three parts, 
which will gradually join and be seen to be covered with 
numerous mills, all overlooked by the tall light-tower. 

Should the position be so uncertain, from lack of previous 
observations or otherwise, as to make a captain doubtful 
about the laud reported, it should be remembered that file 
de Groix, much smaller than Belle-Ile, has a square light- 
tower, not very high, built in the northern part, while that 
of Belle-Ile is circular, very lofty, and situated in the south¬ 
ern part. As for Pile d’Yeu, it is low, and the light-tower 
will at first seem to stand in the sea. Saint-Sauveuf steeple 
will also be visible near it. Fiber light will be recognized 
by the structure, surmounted by a semaphore, to the south¬ 
ward of it. 

If from haziness on the horizon neither Belle-Ile nor Fi¬ 
ber light-towers should be made, but a shorter and more 
massive one sliould be sighted ahead, appearing to stand in 
the water, that will be La Banche light, and the course 
should be changed to the southward for the mouth of the 
river. 

But in case of thick weather, soundings would fix the po¬ 
sition with fair accuracy. 

At 114 miles west of Belle-Ile is a depth of 93 fathoms, 
over sand and shells; at 95 miles, 82 fathoms; the sand is 
mixed with mud at 80 miles; and 44 miles off, pure mud will 
be found at 62 fathoms. Fifty-five fathoms is the depth 20 
miles from the light. 

The approximate distance from Fiber light is obtained by 
simply adding 19 miles to the figures above, it being about 
that distance to the eastward of the line joining Belle-Ile 
and Pile d^Yeu. 

When the depths become less than 55 fathoms, the lines 
of soundings cease to run parallel to the coast, but a knowl¬ 
edge of the following facts will prove useful. 

In running to the eastward, should a vessel pass suddenly 
from rock bottom at 27J fathoms, to the same at 22 fath¬ 
oms, the captain may feel pretty sure of being west of, and 
quite near, Belle-Ile. If this diminution of 5 fathoms in the 
soundings be only found in the course of 3 miles’ run, and the 
bottom should first be gravel, changing to rock, the vessel 


In (lay-time. 


Thick weather 

Soundings. 


314 


DIRECTIONS—PILOTS, 


is 3 miles west of He d'Yeu. Finally, if the diminution of 
5 fathoms be only found in the course of 10 miles, (east and 
westJ the vessel is on. or a little to the southwani of, the 
parallel of La Banche light. 

Should a captain be only certain of being between Belle- 
Ile and He d‘Yeu, and find rock at 13^ fiithoms, without 
having made laud, he may shape a course \Y. If it were 
the Guerande bank that he had found, that course would 
take him into Qaiberou bay, where he could wait, in per¬ 
fectly smooth water, for the fog to lift. If he had found the 
13-fathom depth to the southwani of La B;tnche, by steer¬ 
ing yyw, he would soon see L;t Banche light, Gouevas 
buoy, or the coast of Croisic, which, it will be remembered, 
is quite clear. Finally, if the ship should be in the channel 
between He d'Yeu and Les Bieufs, a XXW. course would 
bring her out clear of the chaussee. 

Under these circumstances, however, if a heavy sea were 
running, it would be advisable to make an ofiing. 

At night. Approaching the coast at night it is only necessary to re-* j 
member the different characters of the lights that are most ! 

likely to be made: that of Belle-He revolves every mimuU; , 

that of Pilier isiijctd, with a flask every 4 minutes : that of ! 
He d'Yeu is Le Four light, which revolves every one- 

half miiiMfe, could not be confounded with that of Belle-Ile, 
as the latter would always be made first. La Banche light 
is fijced red. 

The position off the entrance being known, it lies with the 
captain to decide which channel to take, being infiueuced 
by the stage of the tide, and the directions of winds and 
currents. 

PiioTi The advice of the pilots deserves consideration also, as to * 

which is the best channel to take. They sometimes lie 
in the port of THerbaudiere during good weather, works 
having been carried on there to make it tenable. But they 
frequently cruise to windward. In bad weather they are 
most frequently to be found in the port of Arzic, near the 
point of that name, in the SE. part of BeUe-Ile. The river 
pilots are often to be found cruising 10 miles to the west¬ 
ward of Le Four bank. 

i>ire«tio&§ for In fine weather, as soon as a vessel, coming from seaward 
Si ^^****^ with westerly winds, makes Belle lie, the ship's head should 


I 



DIRECT I05S. 


315 


be so laid as to pass 5 miles to the southward of it, and then 
S. 85'^ E., which will bring La Laiiehe light off the port bow. 
Pass about three-fourths mile south of the latter, and ou 
making Lambarde bell-buoy starboard the helm, pass 2 
cables south of it, and head op to the EXE. to clear the 
buoy marking the wr^k.* On reaching the alignment 
of PAiguillon and Le Commerce light-towers, the former 
should be kept open about 2P to the left of the latter, which 
places the latter over a point of rocks. To do this the 
course is X. 27^ E. and leads over the Chart)entiers bar in 
the deepest channel. 

The outer edge of the bar is reached when the Pierre- 
Perc^ is open 1 point to the northward of the Grand Char- 
pentier tower; and the bar is passed when the former comes 
in range beyond the Petit Charpentier tower. At that mo¬ 
ment also PAiguillon and Le Commerce lights appear at 
the same height. 

In case of a westerly swell heaving in, it would hardly be 
safe to pass so close to Gnerande and La Banche banks. 
It would be better to steer S. 60^ E. for Pilier light, with 
Belle-Ile light astern X. 66^ W.t One advantage of com¬ 
mencing this course when near Belle-Ile is the facility 
of getting a pilot. The helm may be put a-starboard when 
La Banche light bears XE., steering X. E. for 8i miles. 
Then steer as directed above for Commerce light-tower open 
to the right of that of Aigoillon. 

Under these circumstances a vessel would pass to the 
eastward of the buoy at the wreck east of Lambarde buoy. 
As the roughness of the water might very possibly prevent 
the buoy from being readily seen, the two lights should be 
kept well open for 3 miles after making the last change 
mentioned in the course. Then bring them about 2^ apart 
again, X. 27^ E. 

On these courses the distance from Belle-Ile to the bar is 
about 37 miles. 

Should the sea be so heavy as to make the bar impassa¬ 
ble, which is seldom the case, and only during southwesterly 

* This wreck will probably be removed before very long; the hnoy 
will remain there nntil it is. 

t When near Belle-Ile the light can only be seen from the rigging. 


Bad weather. 


CaatioB. 



316 


CHENAL DU NORD. 


gales, a vessel should run under the lee of Noirmoutier isl- 
'and and anchor off La Chaise. 

Coming from Vessels comiiig up froui the SW., having made He d’Yeu, 
have only one danger to look for, and that is the Chauss^e 
des Bceufs; they should steer when off that reef so as not 
to bring the Petite Foule light of f.le d’Yeu to bear south 
of S. 20° E. before Pilier light bears to the eastward of N. 
70^ E. When the latter bearing is passed the ship’s head 
may be laid for Commerce and Aiguillon lights in line. 

c h e n ai du The Cheiial du Nord is the one generally taken by vessels 
beating in against northeasterly winds. To enter it pass 
Le Four light-tower to starboard, as also the buoy of Le 
Bonen du Four. The steeple of Bats, S. 74® E., just out¬ 
side and touching I’Autel, the outer* rock of La liomaine, 
(the semaphore of the latter is a little to the southward of 
Croisic point,) leads through in deep water between I’ln- 
connu and Hikeric shoals. When li miles from Le Four 
light on this course, port the helm to bring it to bear ^7. 
65° W., about 2 miles off, and steer away from it S. 65° E. 
until abreast of the Grand Charpentier beacon, which must 
not be approached nearer than one-half mile. 

Steamers. Ill smootli Weather, steamers coming in to the northward 
of Belle-lle can steer a straight course, S. 69° E., for La 
Banche light, crossing Guerande bank. When Le Four 
tower bears NNE., starboard the helm and head east for 
about 8 miles, or until Gouevas buoy bears N. 77^ W., when 
steer away from it S. 77° E., with the Grand Charpentier 
beacon one-half point off the port bow. 

Guerande steeple, over that of Bats, N. 41° E., leads in 
between the shoals of 1’Astrolabe and Michaud. The Cha¬ 
teau of Vautier, at Pornichet, bearing N. 72° E. over Leven 
islet (1J' miles to the southeastward of Pain Chateau point) 
leads in between the NW. rock of La Banche and the Basse 
Michaud. This latter range passes over the tail of Guerande 
with 6J fathoms water. To the eastward of La Banche, 
Escoublac steeple K 20° E. over Leven islet, leads in deep 
water, as does also Guerande steeple N. 7^ W. over Pain 
Chateau point. 

Finally, the Charpentiers bar may be approached with 
the Grand Charpentier tower N. 55o E. a little open of 
I’Eve point. 


RIVER NAVIGATION. 


317 


III beating tlirongli/tbe northern channel, the Basse Lovre, ® ® ^ " s 

, • 1 1 V ’ through the Che- 

is avoided by keeping the mill of’ Poalhaut(l mile north ot'“ai au Nord, 
Ch^monlin jioint) open of Pain Chateau point, until Gue- 
rande is clear to the eastward of Bats, when the boards may 
be continued closer inshore. 

In the anchorage NE. of Leven islet is a depth of 13f 
feet at low water. To make it, enter the Passe du Pain Cha¬ 
teau, steering for Escoublac steeple K 38^ 3(K E. The pass 
is 425 yards wide between Les Guerandaises and Basse 
Martineaii, with 3J fathoms water. Leave the course given 
when Bats steeple comes over a little tumulus to the right 
of Pain Chateau battery, and steer away from it S. 70° E. 
until abreast of Leven islet. The anchorage is on the align¬ 
ment of two mills to the left of Escoublac. 

There are two channels leading from the bar to Saint- 
Kazaire. The more direct one is to the southward of the 
bank of Bonne Anse, and has li feet less water than there 
is on the bar. The other is the deeper ainj follows the 
curve of the north bank of the river. 

Having crossed the Charpentiers bar, keejnng Aiguillon of^^Bonne Anse 
light-tower open 2^ to the left of that of Commerce, to enter 
the channel south of Bonne Ause bank port the helm as the 
lights of Saint-Nazaire and Ville-es-Martin draw near to 
each other, and steer for them in line, N. 53^ E., until the 
beacon on the Petit Charpentier bank is just open of I’Eve 
point, then port again and steer N. 64® E., keeping the t\to 
latter in the same relative position, until the Tour du Com¬ 
merce passes over Ville-es-Martin light-tower. The ship is 
then above the Morees bank and beacon. Then steer il. 

500 E., with Saint-Nazaire light 1 point off’ the port bow, 
and come-to in the roads before the latter comes in range 
with the steeple. 

A good channel, south of Bonne Ause bank, will be found 
also on the following ranges : 

Leave the course that led over the bar as Saint-Nazaire 
and Ville-es-Martin lights come in line, but steer away N: 

750 E. from I’Eve point on with Chemoulin point, keeping 
on this range astern until the Commerce light-tower passes 
to the eastward of La Rougeole rock of Bonne Ause, when 
steer so as to pass midway between the Morees tower and 


318 


AT NIGHT. 


At night 


Anchorage. 

C h e n a 1 
Bonne Anse 


Directions. 


Ville es-Martin, making afterwards a N. 50^ E. course to 
the roads. 

Or in very clear weather still another set of ranges may 
by taken, using La Banche light-tower. When abreast the 
black buoy off PEve point, open Commerce and Aiguillou 
light-towers gradually, and finally steer N. 66^ E. witli La 
Banche light tower astern in line beyond PEve point; when 
abreast the Tour des Morees, follow directions above. 

At night, leave the approximate alignment of the Com¬ 
merce and Aiguillon lights, that led in over the bar, before 
those of Saint Nazaire and Ville 6s-Martin come in line, in 
order to make and keep the range of the two latter perfect. 
The minute La Banche light disappears behind the Pointe 
de PEve, steer K. 66^ E., bring it in sight again with a spoke 
of the wheel, and remain just on the limit of its visibility, 
clear of that point. When past Ville-6s-Martin light, steer 
up the river, with Saint-Nazaire light 1 point off the port 
bow, and anchor on the cross-bearings of the latter between 
the red and green lights at the entrance to the dock, and 
Ville es-Martin light in line with that of Aiguillon beyond. 

In case the night should not be clear enough to see La 
Banche light from the Pointe de PEve, (the distance being 
9 miles and the range only 10 miles,) the alignment of Saint- 
Nazaire and Ville-es-Martin lights may be left, when the 
little red light on PEve point is slightly open to the south- 
wtird of Aiguillon light, to steer N. 64^ E., bringing the 
two latter gradually closer to each other. When PPIve 
light disappears it will have been masked by the Tour d’Ai¬ 
guillon, and it should be kept so, using starboard or port 
helm as the currents drift the vessel to the southward or 
northward of the range. 

In Saint-Nazaire roads is mud bottom at 9 fathoms. 

The Chenal de Bonne Anse follows the curve of the bight 
from which it takes its name, and has a least depth of 
fathoms at low water. In one part of it there is anchoring 
ground. 

Leave the course over the bar before reaching the buoy 
off* PEve point, and steer N. 36^ E.; the Maison Neuve will 
be seen ahead on that bearing, and the middle of it should 
be kept over the gate in the wall surrounding it. When 
abreast of Trebezy inlet the signal staff on PEve point will 


BEATING UP THE RIVER. 


319 


approach the dwelling of the Aiguillon light-keeper ; steer* 

K. 570 E. away from it as it touches the south angle, until 
abreast La Rongeole rock, when a course N. 83° E., with 
the house of Trebez 3 ^ (on the N. shore of the inlet) to the 
northward of Les Rochelles mill astern, will lead in mid¬ 
channel between Ville-es-Martin and the Morees tower. 

After that, bring Saint Nazaire light 1 point off the port 
bow and keep on to the roads. 

Vessels can also obey pilot-signals made at Pointe de PEve. 

The range giving the outer edge of the bar { Pierre-Percee Beating up. 
equidistant between the Grand and Petit Oharpentiers tow¬ 
ers) also passes over the banks on either side of the chan¬ 
nel. When outside, before reaching the approximate align¬ 
ment leading in, a vessel drawing V2 feet should not stan I 
to the northward of Pierre Percee two fifths wa^^ from the 
former to the latter beacon. 

The channel is limited in the E. at first by the Banc de nimitofboards 
PEst and afterward by the Banc de Bonne Anse, the former 
of which is marked by a red buoy on the NW. edge, and 
the latter by a red and black one also on the NVV. edge. 

From the time of first reaching the bar until Pierre Percee 
comes in range with the Petit Charpentier beacon, a ves¬ 
sel should tack when Saint Nazaire light bears midway be¬ 
tween that of Ville es-Martin and the Morses tower. After 
that the boards may be continued to the eastward to bring 
the little mill (1 mile north of PEve light) in line with the 
old guard-house of PEve, and finally the red buoy of the 
bank in line with La Rougeole rock. 

Until the Pierre-Percee passes to the northward of 
beacon on the Petit Charpentier, a vessel should not go to 
the westward of the alignment of the Tour du Commerce 
and Aiguillon point. After that she may stand farther to 
the westward, but keep Pornichet to the northward of 
Ch^moulin point; finally the range of Saint-Nazaire and 
Ville es-Martin light-towers is the limit. Twelve feet may 
be carried to 55 yards of PEve buoy, (black.) 

The above limits are to be observed at low-water springs. 

At other stages of the tide the boards may be made farther 
to both eastward and westward. 

The anchorage in the bight called Bonne Anse is good in 
all weathers, the banks that lie between the channel and 


320 


SAINT-NAZAIRE ROADS. 


the sea breaking the sea and giving good shelter to vessels. 
The bearings used by the pilots are the signal-mast of I’Eve 
point touching the north edge of PAiguillon light-keeper’s 
dwelling, or the house of Les Rochelles oi)en to the south¬ 
ward of Trebezy house, and the Tour du Commerce between 
La Rougeole rock and the western point of La Rougeole 
bay. 

On the former up-and-down stream range the greatest 
dei)ths are down stream. 

Saint - Nazaire In the roads off Saiiit-Nazaire, 5^-fathom depths are lim¬ 
ited in the north by Saint-Nazaire light touching the north 
side of the church of that town ; in the west they are found 
to within 115 yards of the black tower of Les Vignettes ; in 
the east they are limited by the range of the white buoy 
and Moiees tower. 

Only the eastern part of the anchorage is really snug; 
near Les Vignettes, and off the end of the jetty, the cur¬ 
rent of the ebb is so strong that the anchors would not 
hold. The best cross-bearings for coming-to are Ville-6s- 
Martin and Aiguillon lights in line, and Saint-Razaire light 
in the middle of the Grande Rue. 

A little above that the plateau of Saint-Nazaire divides 
the anchorage into two ])arts, one of which in the west joins 
the fosse of Means, and the other the channel of Mindin. 
Ville-es-Martin light inside (to the northward) that of Saint- 
' Nazaire, is the range for the former, in which are depths of 
6^'fathoms, at low water, abreast the entrance to the dock, 
decreasing to the northward. For the eastern j)ar't, a good 
range is the south point of He Saint Nicolas well ojren to 
the northward of Mindin mill, or the white buoy of the an¬ 
chorage under Ville es-Martin light. The anchorage is good 
at all times except during the breaking up of the ice. As a 
general rule, however, it is onlv used temporarily, the ope¬ 
rations of loading and unloading being carried on in the 
dock. 

Basse de Saint- The Basse de Sairit-Nazaire is a plateau with three principal 
^ ' heads, covered respectively by GJ, 9|, and lOJ feet of water. 

The northernmost rock is marked by a buoy, but the south¬ 
ern is not, and but for the general smoothrress of the river, 
many vessels that have struck there would have gone to 
pieces. Saint-Nazaire light in the middle of the Grande 


WET-DOCK—SIGNALS. 


321 


Kue, near tliecliurch steeple, gives 11J feet, aud, inline with 
the latter, 23 feet. 

The flood-tide is apt to set vessels on this shoal. 

The wet dock, which is solidly executed in granite, has 
two locks, the northernmost of which is thii larger, being 
82 feet wide, with a floor IL feet below the level of the low¬ 
est spring ebb-tides. The smaller is 42J feet wide, 197 feet 
long, and has a sill feet below spring ebbs. It may be 
entered from half-flood to half-ebb. 

Signals are made at the entrance after half tide, indicat¬ 
ing the height of water above the zero of the scale of the 
entrance, which corresponds to the sill of the smaller lock. 

The following signals are also made from a flag-staft’ near 
the south lock: 

A white flag, quartered with black, under a black pen- 
nan t : sluices are open to the flood. 

The same flag under the national ensign : the large lock 
is open. 

The same flag alone: the smaller lock is open. 

The same flag over a black pennant: sluices are open to 
the ebb in the smaller lock. 

A red flag means that the channel is closed j entrcUice is 
forbidden. 

A blue flag means that water is to be run from the locks. 

The small gates to the basin are opened three-fourths 
of an hour before high water and closed at the commence¬ 
ment of the ebb. In bad weather the gates to the basin are 
never opened, nor between sunset aud sunrise in any 
weather, unless in special cases. 

A vessel preparing to enter should hoist her national flag 
above the i)rivate signal, and have a kedge ready to let go 
aft, as well as good hawsers ready to send to the piers. 

It is best to come off the entrance to the basin a little 
before high water, as the flood-tide will facilitate hauling in. 
Steer W. or iSlW., according to the strength of the tide, to 
pass inshore of the Basse de Saint-Nazaire, and haul to the 
southern quay. 

If the ebb-tide have commenced there will be found an 
eddy inshore, which would probably catch the bows aud 
sheer the vessel over to the north quay unless the precau¬ 
tion had been taken of sending lines to the southern quay. 

21 N c 


Caution. 

Wet-dock. 


Dock-signals. 


Directions. 


Caution. 


322 


SAINT-NAZAIRE—EXPENSES. 


I 

Town of Saint" 
Na zaire. 


Population. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

• 

Charges, 


When the ocean-steamers are about to go in or out, the 
red flag is hoisted at the signal-staff, and no other vessel is 
allowed between the quays. 

Steamers must stop their engines in time to have their 
way comifletely checked before approaching the locks. The 
officer of the port decides whether they may go through 
under steam or be hauled through. 

There are no dock-dues. 

The town of Saint-Nazaire is of but little importance save 
as the outport of Nantes. But the construction of the w'et 
dock, and the establishment of a line of steamers to differ¬ 
ent ports in the West Indies, Central America, and the Pa¬ 
cific, have given an impetus to foreign trade, and as a spirit 
of improvement is manifest everywhere, it may become a 
considerable commercial port. The greater number of the 
river-pilots live in the town. 

The population of Saint-Nazaire is about 10,000. 

The principal imports are coal, iron, machinery, guano, 
raw sugars, coffee, &c. 

The exports consist principally of cereals, fish, pitwood, 
refined sugars, and mules. 

Vessels frequently leave in ballast. 

The pilot-charges for shifting anchorage in outer road¬ 
stead, or entering or leaving the docks, are: 

Francs. 


Vessels from 151 to 300 tons. 15 

Vessels from 301 to 450 tons. 20 

Vessels from 451 to 600 tons. 25 

Vessels from 601 to 750 tons. 30 

Vessels from 751 to 900 to^s. 35 


Vessels charteredforNantes can discharge sufficientcargo 
at Saint-Nazaire to enable them to reach the former port, 
but this is done at the ship’s expense. The cost of lighter¬ 
age of cargo up to Nantes is usually about 3 francs per 
ton. 

Ships arriving from any European port pay a brokerage 
of 50 centimes per ton of cargo ; 12 francs for entry at the 
custom-house. Vessels from any port out of Europe pay 
75 centimes per ton brokerage, and 18 francs entry at the 
custom-house. Steamers pay half-pilotage from the sea, 
but whole pilotage for the dock, about 20 francs. 







EXPENSES—PAIMBOEUF. 


323 


Masters are obliged to report their vessels at the sanitary 
office on tlie pier-head before they can enter the dock. Any 
vessel leaving the dock by night has to pay 50 francs. 

All vessels requiring a fire on board have to employ a 
fire-guard, at 3 francs per day. 

Brokerage and disbursements of a British bark of 347 Example of a 

. veaaelsexpensea. 

tons register, from Havana, with a cargo of sugar, and 
bound to England in ballast; ^ 

Francs. Centimes. 


Pilotage from Belle-Ile to Saint-Nazaire. 145 *30 

Towage from Cbarpeutiers to Saint-Nazaire. 300 00 

Quarantine-fees. 114 50 

Surveyor’s fees. 48 50 

Consul’s fees. 6 25 

Entry of the vessel at tbe custom-house. 18 00 

Report made to tbe custom-house. 6 00 

I’rotest noted to tbe Tribunal of Commerce. 28 90 

Request to tbe tribunal of commerce for appointing sur¬ 
veyors . 8 00 

Pilotage from tbe roads into tbe dock. 20 00 

Inward brokerage on 390 tons for Saint-Nazaire, at 75 c. 

per ton. 292 50 

Clearance of tbe vessel at custom-liouse. .12 00 

Boat and men for towing vessel into dock. 10 00 

Tow-line dues in, 3 c. per ton. 10 44 

Tow-line dues out, 2 c. per ton. 6 90 

Pilotage from dock to roads. 20 00 

Manifest out. 1 00 

Ballast, 100 tons sand, at 1 fr. 50 c. per ton.. 150 00 

Guard, 20 days, at 3 fr. per day. 60 00 

Pilotage out from Saint-Nazaire to Pilier. 33 60 


1,291 95 

The town of Paimboeuf is on the left bank of the Loire, Paimbmaf. 
7 miles above !Saint-]Srazaire. It is no longer of any com¬ 
mercial importance, even the local trade being insufficient 
to make the place prosper. The exportation of mules was 
formerly concentrated here, but is now carried on from 
Saint-Nazaire. About the only import is timber. 

Biver-steamers.plying between Nante^s, Donges,and Saint- 
Nazaire stop here several times daily. 

Water can be obtained from the wells on shore, but it is 
not very good, and it is better to buy it from the tanks that 
come down from the upper part of the river. 






















324 


PAIMBCEUF ANCHORAGES. 


Population. 


Charges. 


Anchorages. 


Gridiron. 


Nantes. 


Tbe population of Paimboeuf is about 3,GOO, but emigra* 
tiou has commenced to Saint-Nazaire. 

Ships proceeding to this port have to clear in and out at 
Kautes also; and if they employ brokers at each place, the 
one in Nantes receives two-thirds and the one in Paimboeuf 
one-third. 

The total charges on a bark of 380 tons register, cargo 
in, ballast out, drawing 15 feet loaded, are about 1,312 
francs. 

It is almost impossible to navigate as far as Paimboeuf 
without a pilot, as the channel is intricate and changes 
from year to year. 

There is good anchorage both above and below the town. 

The anchoring-ground below the town commences at 
Pierre-^-l’Oeil tower, (from which it is proposed to exhibit a 
light,) and extends to abreast of the light on the jetty, near 
which it branches off toward the middle of the river. Good 
ranges for coming-to are Pierre-a-POeil tower, on with the 
Maison Perret, or Paimboeuf light in line with the lower 
end of Camay island, and the tower of Les Brillantes open 
one-half point to the left of Donges. If a berth be desired 
nearer the jetty, make the first of these alignments, and for 
a cross-bearing bring the light in line with the jetty, on with 
the house at the inshore end. 

The least depth in this anchorage is 14| feet below the 
level of low-water springs at Saint-Nazaire, but, because of 
the descent of the river between the two places, there is 
never less than 17J feet water, there being that much dif- 
lerence in the low-water levels. 

In the anchorage abov-e Paimboeuf, which is generally 
called that of the Quatre Amarres, is also a depth of 17J 
feet. Vessels generally moor there head and stern. The 
ebb tide runs 5 and 6 knots at springs. 

Paimboeuf has a tidal basin with a gridiron, the blocks 
of which are If feet above low-water level. Therefore, 
vessels drawing 16 feet can only be taken at high-water 
springs. Two buoys have been planted outside to run lines 
to. 

Nantes is situated on the right bank of the Loire, 28 miles 
above Saint-Nazaire. It is the capital of the department of 
Loire luferieure, and is a large and important commercial 


NANTES. 


325 


city, ranking in importance as the fourth port of the re¬ 
public, notwithstanding the difficulties attendant upon the 
navigation of the river. It stands partly on the main land 
intersected by the Erdre and Sbvre-Hantaise rivers, and 
partly on three islands formed by the irregular course of 
the Loire. Thus situated, it enjoys the advantages of water- 
communication between its various parts. The old part of 
the town is on the slopes and summit of a gentle hill, half 
encircled by the Loire. The handsomest quarters are on 
the islands Gloriette and Feydau, which are connected with 
the main and each other by numerous bridges, several of 
which are very handsome, the Pont de Pirmil being 277 
yards long, with 16 arches. There are also two railway 
bridges over the Loire. 

Both the river-bank and shores of the islands are bor¬ 
dered by fine quays, one of which, the Quai de la Fosse, over 
a mile and a half in length, is broad and shaded by fine elms, 
and bordered by balconied terraces and warehouses. The 
quays Des Braces and Port Maillard are also planted with 
trees, being at once well frequented promenades and the prin¬ 
cipal seats of commercial activity. The whole city is in gen¬ 
eral regularly laid out, and well built and paved. Most of the 
houses are of stone, roofed with slate. There are between 
30 and 40 squares, the principal of which, the Place Boyale, 
is surrounded by handsome shops. This and the quartiers 
Graslin and Feydau may be compared with the best parts 
of Paris. 

Nantes was formerly fortified, but its ramparts have been 
mostly demolished, and it is now an open town communi¬ 
cating with four considerable suburbs. In the east part of V 

the city, skirting the river, is the large and imposing castle 
of the ancient dukes of Brittany, a mass of irregular build¬ 
ings surrounded with thick walls flanked by solid round 
towers. It is now in a great measure dismantled, and is 
the residence of the military governor, and a powder-maga¬ 
zine. The finest building in the city is the Prefecture. It 
was erected between 1750 and 1777, and was formerly ap¬ 
propriated to the Cour des Comptes. It has two noble 
fronts of tlie Ionic order, a fine staircase, and several large 
halls and other good apartments; it is partly used as the 
depository of the departmental archives. The cathedral, 


326 


NANTES. 


Population. 

Industries. 




Commerce. 


not imposing either without or within, has a front, orna¬ 
mented with good though mutilated sculptures, and flanked 
with two towers 170 feet high; in its interior is a magnifi¬ 
cent marble tomb erected by Anne of Brittany in memory 
of her father, Francis II, the last duke of that province. 
No other church demands particular iittention. Among 
other noticeable buildings are the exchange, the theatre, 
the town hall, and the Palais de Justice; the Hotel Dieu, 
on He Gloriette, with 670 beds; the Hospice du Sauitat, or 
general infirmary and asylum, with 800 beds; the Hospital 
of Incurables; the museum, which contains more than 1,000 
paintings and300 sculptures; the Salorges, a general depot 
for merchandise; and the public library, with 30,000 volumes. 

The population of Nantes was 118,500 in 1872. 

The manufactures of the city are various and on the in¬ 
crease. Coarse woolen cloths and flannels, cambrics, printed 
cotton goods, handkerchiefs, tickings, and hosiery are made 
on a large scale, besides which there are biscuit-making 
houses, chemical works, potteries, rope-walks, copper founde- 
ries, manufactories of cannon and iron cables, and other 
stores, with breweries, distilleries, sugar-houses, tau-yards, 
vinegar establishments, and - ship-yards for building mer¬ 
chant-vessels and occasionally small corvettes.* The pil¬ 
chard fishery is carried on with great activity, employing 
in the season 700 boats, manned by 3,000 seamen. 

The high prices of English coals have caused a consider¬ 
able development of severable mines in the country, where 
large quantities of patent fuel are made for the railroad 
companies. There are also large quantities of manures 
manufactured, principally from spent charcoal and peat- 
mould from the large bog of Montoir, near Saiut-Nazaire. 

Nantes was formerly famous for her quick-sailing vessels, 
but such is no longer the case. At ludret, on an island a 
little below the city, is an establishment for building steam¬ 
ships, which, in 1865, employed 2,000 workmen. Previous 
to the revolution, the foreign trade was much greater than 
it is at present, and during the time that the slave-trade 


* There was a marked decline in ship-building a few years ago, proba¬ 
bly attributable to a restrictive law passed in May, 18G6. An attempt 
was made in 1872 to stimulate it, by imposing heavy dutits on imported 
foreign-built vessels. Tide Appendix. 



NANTES. 


327 


was carried on, Nantes was more extensively en|?aged in it 
than any other French port. Now, Marseilles, Havre, and 
Bordeaux rank above her as commercial cities; but she is 
still the emporium of all tlie rich, extensive country trav¬ 
ersed by the Loire, and has a considerable trade, both of 
exports and imports, particularly with the French West In¬ 
dies and the diHerent ports of Europe. 

The trade of the place has been reviving lately-; between 
the years 18G5 and 1871, the annual custom house receipts 
increased from 21,970,985 francs to 30,749,517 francs. Sev¬ 
eral new lines of railways authorized by the late imperial 
government, from La Vendee, Brittany, and Normandy, to 
this port, have been commenced, and will give a further im¬ 
petus to the trade of the district. 

During the year ending September 30, 1874, there was a 
remarkable falling off in the trade with the United States,, 
the decrease in the value.of exports as compared with the 
previous year being $67,500. ' 

The exports comprise all sorts of French produce, but Exports 
principally wine, brandy and vinegar, silk, woolen and linen 
goods, refined sugar, wheat, rye, and ship’s biscuits. 

The imports are raw sugar, coffee, and other colonial prod- , imports, 
uce, cotton, indigo, timber, and hemp. 

Nantes is likewise a considerable entrepdt for the salt 
manufactured at Noirnioutier and Groisic. 

Here, as in all other French ports, all vessels above reguia- 

tons burden are bound to take a pilot whenever they move 
any distance above a cable’s length. 

Ships lying at anchor must ask for a pilot at the nearest, 
station. The pilot-stations are Belle-Ile, Groisic, Saint-Na- 
zaire, Paimboeuf, Basse-Indre, and Nantes. 

Gaptains are bound to take the first pilot they meet, and 
must jmt down in the book of which each pilot is the bearer 
the name of the place where the vessel was taken or left by 
him. 

Pilots employed at any work other than pilotage are paid 
six francs per day." Each day begun is due. 

Brokers and consignees of foreign ships are responsible 
for the payment of pilotage in and out. 

The tariff for change of position at Nantes and other 
ports on the Loire is as follows: 


328 


PILOT-CHARGES—LE CROISIC. 


Lft Croisic 
roads. 


Port of Le 
Croisic. 


Tidal signals. 
Town. 


I Other ports. Nantes 

Francs. Francs 

Vessels of 150 tons and below. 10 6 

Vessels of 151 to 300 tons. 15 9 

Vessels of 301 to 450 tons. '20 12 

Vessels of 451 to 600 tons. 25 15 

Vessels of 601 to 750 tons. 30 18 

Vessels of 751 to 900 tons.35 21 

Vessels of 900 tons and above. 24 


And so on, increasing 5 francs for every 150 tons. 

Every pilot, belonging to Belle-lle, FHerbaiKli^re, Croisic, 
and Pouliguen, who takes a vessel to Saint-i!^’azaire, has a 
right to the following payments : 

Francs. 


Belle-lle x)ilot. 10 

Herbaudi^re pilot. 9 

Croisic and Pouliguen pilot. 3 


And reciprocally, pilots who may pilot a vessel from Saint-Nazaire 
and be landed at any of these places. 

The Belle-lle pilots are paid by the pilot-office, the others 
by the ship. 

Towage, if required, 1 franc per ton on cargo of coals 
inward. 

Total charges on a schooner of 144 tons register: inward, 
with a cargo of 243 tons coals; outward, in ballast; draught 
of water in, 12 feet; out, 7 feet; 520 francs. 

North 7° W., 4|- miles from Le Croisic point, is the Pointe 
du Castelli; between the two is a bay bordered by a sandy 
beach, back of which the land is low, with occasional sand- 
downs. The bay extends in 2 miles froin the lines between 
the two points, and forms the roadstead of Le Croisic, with 
depths of 5 to 7 fathoms at IJ miles from the middle of the 
beach, over sticky mud, sand, and broken shells. With 
winds between east and south, neap-ebb tides do not turn 
throughout the day, and beating in is, consequently, very 
tedious work. 

In the SE. corner of this bay is the little port of Le Croi¬ 
sic, whicli dries at low water. The entrance is very diffi¬ 
cult because of the numerous shoals, and because the tidal 
currents run very strong. 

Tide-signals are made from the heights of Enigo. 

The population of the town is about 3,0l)i), but during 
the bathing season many strangers dock there, a road con- 












DUMET ISLAND AND PASSAGE. 


329 


necting it with Gu6rande. There are about 80 boats em¬ 
ployed in the fisheries, and considerable salt is sent to 
Nantes for exportation. 

From Oastelli point the coast, in general low, trends to Coast, 
the northeastward for 5 miles, and, making an elbow, in 
which are two little bays, the Port du Mesqiier and the 
Trait de Penbaie, which dry at low water, runs 4 miles in a 
general direction of NNW. to the Pointe du Halgueu, 
which is some 50 feet high, and forms the southern point 
of entrance to the Vilaine river. 

Off Castelli point, on which is a signal-station, a rocky du 

bank, called the Plateau du Piriac, extends about 2 miles, 
between NNW. and NW. by W. On it are several shoals, 
covered by 5J to 6J feet of water, and rocks, that uncover 
at low water, project one-half mile out, one of which, Les 
Bayonelles, one-half mile west of the point, is marked by a 
tower. 

% 

Commencing at 1 mile to the northwestward of the Plateau Pe Dumet. 
du Piriac is another rocky shelf, on which is Pile Dumet. 

This latter plateau is 2^ miles long BNE. and WSW., with 
a width not exceeding li miles. The island affords a lee to 
small coasters, who have ridden out quite heavy gales of 
wind there. The shoals are at depths of to 9| feet. 

Between the plateaux of Dumet and Piriac is a pass ®^^^® 

51 fathoms at low water. The limit of the channel on the 
south side is on the range of Pont-Mah6 mill over the guard¬ 
house on the Pointe du Bile NE. by E. J E. j in the north 
the limit is the same mill over the southern point of Bile 
island. Outside of these limits the plateaux break in bad 
weather, and in very heavy weather the breakers reach 
out even to mid-channel j but vessels can always use the 
pass. The ebb tide runs 4i knots, at springs, to the south- 
westward. 

Among other spots to be avoided by vessels beating along other dangers, 
the coast are the Eoche de Kervaire, one-half mile off shore, 

2J miles to the northeastward of Oastelli point j the Basse 
de Beaulieu, 2 miles to the northeastward of the latter 
shoal j the Basse du Bile, to the westward of the Trait de 
Penbaie, and others, none of which are particularly dan¬ 
gerous, being in rather shoal water where vessels would not 
be apt to come. 


330 PENLAN EIGHT—COAST. 

Penian point. ^ little over 1 mile N. J W. from Halguen point is 

Penlan po'int, the northern extreme of the mouth of the 
Yilaine river. 

Light: Lat. 470 Oil the rethlisli cliffs of Penlan point is a round tower 31 
2 ^ 3 o''i 4 ?w!‘^“*‘feet high, with dwelling attached, from which is exhibited, 
at an elevation of 52 feet above sea-level, a fixed ichite^ di¬ 
optric, fourth-order light, visible 10 miles. 

Kiver vilaine. The Vilaiue river rises in the department of Mayenhe, not 
far from Vitre, and has a total length of about 135 miles. 

, Its course is at first westerly, running to the south westward 

after passing Rennes. Among other towns on its banks 
are Redon and La Roche Bernard. It is navigable by^ 
small vessels 90 miles.* 

Coast. From Penlan point, the coast, which is moderately high, 

very much cut up by small bays and coves and skirted in 
many places by rocky ledges and shoals extending IE miles; 
out, runs 12 miles W. | S. to the Pointe de Saint-Jacques,; 
which is the NW. extremity of the opening of the Vilaine, 
the SE. extremity being Oastelli point. 

Kervoyai point At 2 luiles W. by S. from Penlan point, terminating a 
tolerably deep indentation in the coast, is Kervoyai point, 
off which is a reef of the same name marked by a beacon. 

•Penvins point. About luidway between the latter and Saint-Jacques- 

point is the Pointe de Penvins, off which rocks extend in 
all directions. It is crowned by a battery, and to the east¬ 
ward of it is the entrance to the Port Penerf, a broad inlet, 
on the eastern shore of which, 2 miles from the mouth, is 
the town of that name. 

Off this inlet, and extending some distance to the east- 
wai-d, is the Plateau des Mats, the outer edge of which, in¬ 
cluding the Basse des Mats, is nearly 2 miles from the coast. 
Over the latter rock is a depth of 6 feet. 

Landmarks. The landmarks used on this portion of the coast are the 
Penlan light-tower ; the dome of the old abbey of Prieres, 
three-fourths mile to the northeastward of the latter; Penerf 
steeple, which is very sharp and roofed with slate; the 
steeple of La Tour du Parc, very lofty, and distinguishable 
by a clock at the bottom of the spire; the Tour de Penerf, 
built on the low shore and resembling an old-fashioned 
lighthouse; the tower of Le Pignon, the guard-house of 

* Fur diruotious aud descriptiou of towns, &c., vide pages 345 to 349. 


j 



PORT PENERF. 


331 


Penvius, the Chateau of Succinio; the little black tower ou 
the Chaussee tie Bauzec, at the foot of the cliffs S. of the 
Poiute da Grand Mout, and the church of Saint-Gildas, on 
the summit of Le Grand Mont, whose tower, being square, 
is readily distinguishable. In addition to these, mills are 
used in ranges. 

The inlet of Penerf is quite broad aud shallow, with ex- PortPenerf. 
ception of the chanuel, 5 to tl.J fathouis deep, with a bar 
covered by SJ fathoms. 

Vessels sometimes anchor in Penerf roadstead to await a Roadstead, 
favorable opportunity to enter the Vilaine river. It pos¬ 
sesses the advantage of good holding-ground, but that is 
all. as vessels lying there are fully exposed to the SW. 
winds. Depths of 3| fathoms are found with Penerf steeple 
over the little tower of Penerf, and the guard-house of Pen¬ 
vius in line with the castle of Succinio. With appearance 
of bad southwesterly weather it would be better to come-to 
in 4^ fathoms, with the little tower in line with the new mill 
of Le Parc, aud the other range the same. From here it 
would be euwsier to get under way to make the Vilaine. 

Vessels also anchor temporarily in 3J fathoms off the 
entrance to the passes of the inlet, with the little tower of 
Penerf on with the steeple, aud the red buoy of Bor6nis, 
which marks the SW. edge of the Plateau des Mats, in line 
with Halguen point. The bottom here is mud and clay. 

A small tower is being built on Le Borenis rock, (near Beacon, 
the SW. edge of the Plateau des Mats,) aud will give good 
ranges for avoiding the plateaux of Penvius and Les Mats. 

To avoid the former, bring this tower in line with Penlan 
point, (N. side of the mouth of the Vilaine;) to avoid the 
latter, keep it to the northward of Succinio castle. 

There are three passes leading into the Port Penerf: the 
Passe du Centre, the Passede FEst, and the Passe de FOuest. 

The first, although only 1 foot deep at low water in one passe du cen- 
place, has heretofore been used most, simply because of the**^®' 
channel being more easily followed than the others. 

The eastern pass has been made practicable by the plac- Basse de l Est. 
iug of a beacon and a buoy on aud off the salient angle in the 
channel, in which the least depth is 13 feet at low water. 

Coming from the offing, bring that beacon in line with 
a slender tree to the right of the steeple of Le Tour du Parc 


Directions. 


332 


ANSE DE SUCCINIO. 


aiul pass 11 yards from the former, rounding it and steering 
for the tower of Le Pignon, avoiding the side of the 
channel, marked by a small red beacon. When about 45 
yards from the latter, head N. J W., passing it to starboard, 
and passing also quite close to the red tower of Petite' Bay- 
onnelle, and two red beacons on the starboard and a black 
buoy on the port side. In this part the channel is 5 to 6 
fathoms deep and the shores steep-to. When the last red 
beacon S. of Penerf church has been passed, port the helm 
and steer for the beacon on the end of Penerf jetty, N. 63^ 
E., in line with the middle of the trees of Larmor. This 
course leads to the anchorage, and vessels may come-to any¬ 
where from the range of Penerf tower on with the Pointe 
du Sable to abreast the village. The depths vary from 9f 
to IGJ feet at low water. Sand and mud bottom. 

Caution. Vessels must guard against tlie set of the 3-knot current, 

which runs over the rocks at the bend of the channel as 
soon as they are covered to a depth of 3 feet, 
rtxiest The western pass does not deserve special notice, as there 

is a spot on it of only 1 foot depth. 

Tides. It is high watcT 10 minutes before Saint-Nazaire, the time 

at fall ami change being 3^ 30'*^. 

Currents in the The tidal curreiits in the offing rarely exceed li knots in 

ofiiug. •/ ^ 

strength, and flow to every point of the compass, turning 
in the opposite direction to that of the hands of a watch. 
Kear the entrance to the inlet the flood sets north; but a 
little to the eastward, off the Plateau des Mats, the Vilaine 
influences it, drawing it to the northeastward, 
ci <1® Sue- West of the Pointe de Penvins is an open roadstead, called 
I’Anse de Succinio. The ranges for anchoring are Penerf 
tower in line with Penvins guard-house, and Le Roh Beni- 
guet, a rocky ledge protruding 23 feet above low water, and 
limiting the anchorage in the west, open a little to the north¬ 
ward of Saint-Jacques chapel, and the chateau of Succinio 
bearing due north. 

Gi^^dM^nt coast between Saint-Jacques point and the Pointe 

du Grand Mont, the cliffs rise perpendicularly near the wa¬ 
ter, while farther to the eastward they recede somewhat 
from the coast. The latter point is a little over 21 mijes 
WNW. from the former, and off it is a plateau of the same 
name, a continuation in the westward of that of Saint- 


QUIBERON BAY—LIGHTS. 


333 


Jacques. The 5’-fathom Hue ranges from li to two miles 
from the coast. 

A rocky ledge, called the Basse de Bauzec, projects from Basse de Bau- 
the base of the cliff's, about 1 mile to the westward of Saint- 
Jacques point, and is marked by a little black tower at its 
extremity. To the westward of the latter, three-fourths mile 
off* shore, is the Basse du Grand Mont, which is buoyed on 
the southern edge. 

All along here the coast is quite high, the Petit Mont be- 
ing an excellent landmark. The trend is to the northwest¬ 
ward, then west, south and SE., inclosing Quiberon bay. 

All this coast is extensively and deeply indented by numer- . 
ous little bays that dry at low water, and in the NE. corner 
is the estuary called Le Morbihau, which in the Breton dia¬ 
lect means the Inland sea. 

Quiberon bfiy is 15^ miles deep, to the northwestward bay. 

from the line between the shoals off Haedik island and 
Saint-Jacques point. The entrance is 9t miles wide, though 
the working-room is greatly reduced by the Plateau de la 
Kecherche and other banks. The anchorage in the bay is 
good in all weathers, the bottom being sand and mud at 5 
to 12 fathoms, and the i)eninsula from which it takes its 
name, together with the islands and shoals to the south¬ 
eastward of it, affording a lee from all winds. There is high 
land on both shores. 

At Port Navalo, the SE. point of entrance to Le Mor- xavaio light: 
bihan, is ^ fixed white^ dioptric, fourth-order light, visible 10 n.;' long. 2 ° 55 ' 
miles, exhibited, at an elevation of 72 feet above sea-level, 
from a circular tower 33 feet high, with keeper’s dwelling 
attached. It lights the whole horizon except a sector to¬ 
ward the interior of Le Morbiban, and has extra brilliancy 
when seen in the NE., being visible 15 miles when on that 
bearing. 

On the left side of the mouth of the Crac’h river, whicli lights: 

falls into the head of the bay, fixed red, catoptric, fourth- i^g- 3° oo' 29 " 
order light, 30 feet above sea-level, visible 9 miles, exhibited 
from a house 17 feet high, painted white. N. by VV., 571 
yards from it, is a white, round tower, 41 feet high, ex¬ 
hibiting, at an elevation of 09 feet above sea-level, a fixed 
white, dioptric, fourth-order light, visible 10 miles. The two 


334 


PORT HALIOUEN AND TEIONOUSE LIGHTS. 


Penins ii 1 a 
Quiberou. 


in line lead into Orac’h river. The red one is only visible 
through 150 on each side of the line of direction. 

The peninsula of Quiberon is 5 miles in length and 

SSE., with a greatest width of two miles. It is quite high, 
and is connected with the main-land by an isthmus not 
more than 100 yards wide. The SE. extremity is the Pointe 
de Conguel. 

Port-Haiisuen On the iiortli jetty at Port-Haliguen, on the east coast of 
10 ' N.; long, 3= the peninsula, is a fixed white, dioptric, fourth-order light, 
visible 10 miles, exhibited at an elevation of 39 feet above 


Life-saving sea-level, from a circular tower 37 feet high. 

station. 


A life-saving 


Banc 

berou. 


Station has been established here, 
de Qui- At a distance of 2 miles to the eastward of the southern 
portion of the peninsula, is the Banc de Quiberon, which 
is 1| miles long north and south, one-third mile wide, with 
depths varying from 1 fathom near the southern end to 5^ 
fathoms near the north extremity. The bottom is sand. A 
black and red buoy marks the southern edge. 

To the southward and eastward of the southern extremity 
of the peninsula, project a number of rocks, many of which 
are below low-water level. Some, however, are quite prom¬ 
inent. 

La Teignonae The principal and easternmost of these is La Teignouse 
28 " X.; long. 3° rock, whicli is large, high, and round, and distinguished by 
a circular tower 51 feet high, with enlarged base, on its 
summit showing a lohite light, fixed^ with ^fiash every 3 
minutes. The light is dioptric, of the third order, elevated 
59 feet above sea-level, visible 11 miles. In line with I^^a- 
valo light, it leads into the west entrance of La Teignouse 
pass. 

During fogs a bellis sounded continuously, 1 stroke every 
2 seconds. 

Bocket-ap pa- A rocket-apparatus has been established on La Teignouse. 

Basse xeuve. At a distance of one-half mile SE. from the light is the 


02 ' 52" W. 


Fog-bell. 


Basse du Che- 
nal. 


Gouevs 


Basse ^euve, with 6 feet of water. It is marked by a buoy. 

The southernmost of the rocks, on the plateau immedi¬ 
ately off the south point of the peninsula, is the Basse da 
Oheual, 2^^ miles WSW. J W. from La Teignouse light. 
It is also marked by a buoy. 

South-southeast, three-fourths of a mile from the latter, 
is a patch, called the Gouevas, with 4 shoal spots. There 


CHAUSSEE DU BENIGUET—HOUAT ISLAND. 335 

is a red buoy indicating the northern edge, and a black and 
red one on the southern. 

The first of the chain of islands and plateaux, extending da 

southeastward from Quiberon, is the Chauss^e du Beniguet^ 
the NVV. extreme of which is 2i miles, SSE. ^ E., from the 
peninsula, leaving a passage, miles wide, to the northwest¬ 
ward of it. Among the rocks in the northern part are Les 
Esclassiers, on one of which is a small red tower or beacon. 

On the SE. point is also a tower, built on Le Grand Coin. 

The latter is black. 

Between the Ghauss4e and Houat island, to the south¬ 
eastward, is the Passage du Beuiguet. 

Houat island is of irregular shape, miles longNW. Houat island, 
and SE., and three-fourths of a mile wide in the southern 
part. It lies on a plateau, the NE. part of which is called 
the Banc de Houat, and the southern the Chaussdo de I’lle 
aux Ohevaux. The island is inhabited entirely byseamen, 
the principal occu[)ation being fishing. 

Off the NW. point of the island are the Grande and shoais. 

Petite Basses de Houat, the latter of which is a little over 1 
mile N. by E. from the point. To the westward are the 
Men-er-Broc, Bonen Bras, He Guric, and the Grand Bon- 
leau. The second and last of these have a red tower built 
upon them. 

Houat bank extends to the northward and 2| miles to the Banc oe Houat. 
eastward of Pointe er-Geneleu, and has many shoal patches. 

On Men-er-Houteliguet, one half mile eastward of the SE. 
end, is a stone tower, surmounted by a wooden beacon, 
painted in alternate bands of black and red. On Er Sper- 
nec Bras, 1 mile to the southeastward of the latter, is a 
black tower, surmounted by an iron staff. Men Groise, 
three-fourths of a mile N. by E. from the latter, is marked 
by a black and red tower. 

The Chaussee de Pile aux Ohevaux lies to the southward Chanss^e de 

. • rile aux Che* 

of Houat island, the southern edge being 2J miles off. vaux. 

There are depths of G fathoms on it, but on the southern 
border are a line of rocks, some of which are marked by 
beacons. The westernmost of these is the Basse Occiden- 
tale, the top of which, under 10 feet of water, is given by 
the red tower, on Bouleau rock, just open to the westward 
of that on Bonen-Bras be^mnd j by the summit of Petit 


336 


HAEDIK ISLAND—LIGHT. 


Mont (on the main-land) between Eonleau rock and Meu-er- 
Broc; and by the Griinaud rocks outside File aux Che- 
veaux. 

gj'aasage des There is a passage, that of Les Soeurs, to the southeast¬ 
ward of Houat island and bank, between them and Ilaedik 
island. 

Haedik island. Haedik island, 3 miles SE. from Houat island, is situated 
on a plateau which includes many rocks and shoals, mostly 
in the southeastward and eastward, which terminate the 
SW. border of Quiberon bay. The most easterly of these 
are Les Grands Cardinaux, the outer one of which is a lit¬ 
tle over 2 miles to the southeastward of the shore of the 
island. To the northward and westward of them are Les 
Petits Cardinaux. Separate from the plateau, 2i miles 
SE. 1 S. from the island, is the Basse des Cardinaux, a 
rock covered by 18 feet of water, the depths all round it 
being 10 and 12 fathoms. Along the south edge of the 
plateau are a line of shoals, the farthest of which are li 
miles south of the island, called the Basses du Chariot 5 the 
SW. one is marked by a buoy. 

The easternmost shoal is Cohfournik marked by a black 
tower. 

Off the NW. point of Haedik island, extending nearly 1 
mile to the westward, are groups of rocks, of which the prin¬ 
cipal are Les Sceurs, Coh Karek, Baseu Tres, Er Palaire, 
(the south western most,) and Er-Vas-Plate a-Yore. 

20 'Haedik island, 601 yards west from the east point, is 
^ square tower 39 feet high, attached to a building, show- 
iu^ajixed wliite^ dioptric, fourth-order light, visible 10 miles, 
elevated 85 feet above sea-level. 

Signal-station. There is also a signal-station on the island, with yellow 
house. 

la Punning parallel to the main coast, near Pointe de Saint- 
Jacques, and distant 3 miles from it, is a long, narrow bank, 
called the Plateau de la Eecherche. It is 4f miles in length 
E. by K. and W. by S., of a width varying from one-sixth 
of a mile near the middle to three-fourths of a mile at each 
end, with depths of 3 to 7i fathoms, excepting in a few 
places where rocky bottom is found at 1 fathom. 

On the western end of the plateau, bearing S. 27° E. from 
Lomariaker steeple, is a shoal covered by fathoms. About 


Plateau de 
Recherche. 




BELLE-ILE. 


337 


1| miles E. by N. from it, near the middle of the bank, is 
the Roche de Lomariaker, with only 1 fathom over it; its 
bearings are Lomariaker church N. 36° W., over Port Na- 
valo point, and the south point of Dumet islet, S. 80° E., in 
line with the southern part of Beaulieu woods. Finally, 
one of the heads of the Roche de Sarzeau, with 7 feet on it 
at low water, is 6 miles N. 76° W. from the south point of 
Dumet islet, with Petit Mont point bearing N. 44° W., open 
about one-half degree to the westward of Grand Mont point. 

The Plateau de I’Artimon is situated to the northeast- 
ward of Haedik island, with depths very little inferior, and 
in some places superior, to those adjacent, the least being GJ 
fathoms at low water. The sea never breaks on it, though it 
be very heavy, but vessels should avoid it in comiug-to, for 
fear of losing their anchors on the rocky bottom. It is 2i 
miles long north and south, and li miles broad. Its north¬ 
ern extreme is on the range of the N W. point of Haedik island 
and the SB. point of Belle-Ile; the southern is given by the 
south point of Haedik on with the centre of Belle-Ile; the east¬ 
ern by Arzon steeple open a little to the westward of Grand 
Mont point; the western edge is just a little to the eastward 
of the meridian of the outer rock of Les Grands Cardinaux. 

Belle-lle-en-Mer, or simply Belle-Ile, is 9| miles in length Beiie-Ue. 
!NW. and SE., with a breadth not exceeding 5 miles. Its 
surface is about 160 feet above the sea, and its shores are 
generally high and steep. The island is well cultivated, 
although treeless, and yields good crops; the water on it is 
very sweet and good, and a large reservoir is maintained 
at Port Larron, on the NE. coast, for the supply of vessels. 

The population in 1873 was 10,000. From a military point of 
view, it is a very strong place, fine fortifications adding to 
its natural strength. In the way of curiosities, it has sev¬ 
eral druidical monuments. The principal industries are the 
preparation of sand for the glass-works of the towns on the 
Loire, and the preserving of sardines and tunny-fish. There 
are four signal-stations communicating with the main land 
by electric telegraph. 

The NW. extremity of Belle-Ile is the Pointe des Pou-^^PomtedeaPou- 
lains, immediately off which is an island, called Pile aux 
Poulains, skirted by rocks, outside of which again are a 
number of shoals, called Les Poulains. 

22 N C 


338 


BELLE-ILE LIGHTS. 


Light: Lat. 470 On Pile aux Poulaius is a square white tower, 54 feet 
30 15' 13" w. ‘ high, exhibiting, at an elevatioif of 112 feet above sea-level, 

a white flash light, dioptric, of the third order, visible 14 
miles. The interval between the flashes is 5 seconds. It is 
commonly called Les Poulains light, 
rocks® Les Poulains rocks constitute really the only danger on 

^ the coast of Belle-Ile. They extend from the meridian of 

Les Poulains point (one-fourth of a mile north of it) 1J miles 
to the westward. The westernmost, called the Basse Occi- 
dentale, having 31f feet over it, is 1 mile W. f N. from the 
light. The northernmost, Le Grand Flaharn, with SJ feet, 
is a little over half a mile NW. T N. from the light. All 
these spots break in bad weather. 

The west coast of Belle-Ile is precipitous, very much cut 
up by the action of the sea, and unapproachable almost 
everywhere, even by small coasters. 

Signal-station. At Hastellic, about 2J miles to the southward of Les Pou¬ 
lains light, is a semaphore signal-station, from which mes¬ 
sages can be sent to any port of destination in the vicinity. 
The house is yellow. 

Anse do Do- The first bay where vessels can come-to for shelter from 
easterly winds, is PAnse de Donon, 4 miles to the south¬ 
ward of Les Poulains. The usual anchorage is in 8 fathoms 
water, sand and mud bottom, one-half mile from Bastille 
Law point, with it in line with Borzos village, to the east¬ 
ward of Belle He light. Farther out the bottom is decom¬ 
posed rock. Communication is easy with Le Palais, the 
distance overland being only 3i miles. 

Port Gouifar . Port Goulfar shelter is fouqd from northerly, north. 

westerly, and even westerly winds by small vessels. It is 
on the SW. coast of the island, due south from Belle-Ile 
light. The pilots generally have one of their sloops there. 
The bay is too narrow to accommodate vessels of great 
length j besides, the currents run strong and the bottom is 
rocky. Less than 1 mile to the southeastward, is Le Talut 
point, with a semaphore, communicating with the main-land. 

T Belle-Ile, showing above every object 

N.;^ng. 30 13'on the island, is a white revolving light, 276 feet above sea- 
level, visible 27 miles.* The interval of revolution is 1 

* The range, 27 miles, applies only to large, high vessels. To a look¬ 
out only 9 feet above water, the light is only visible 23 miles. 



S. COAST OF BELLE-ILE. 


339 


minute. The illuniinatiug apparatus is dioptric, of the first 
order. The light is exhibited from a round white tower, 

151 feet high. When a vessel is close to the SE. shore of the 
island the light can only be seen from the rigging, being hid¬ 
den by the high land. It will be desigFiated as Belle-Ile light 
to distinguish it. The eclipses are not total within 10 miles. 

The SW. and south coasts of the island are of the same ^ortKerei. 
nature as the west, being likewise deeply indented by bays. 

The points generally have a few outlying rocks, which do 
not extend far out, however. In Port Kerel is tolerably 
good anchorage. Two buoys (white) have been placed there 
to assist in getting under way. This is also a pilot-boat 
station. When the sea is too rough for them to cruise, they 
scan the horizon from Le Taint heights, and are always 
ready to board a vessel making the signal. 

On Taint point is a signal station. The dwelling is yel- semaphore, 
low. Geographical number B. G. P. N. 

At about one-fourth mile to the eastward of Port Kerel ^ruie. 
is Bangor island, one-third mile to the southward of which 
is a rock, called La Truie, upon which has recently been 
erected a beacon, painted black and red. There is plenty 
of water 200 yards from it on all sides. 

To the eastward of Bangor island, about one-half mile Anchorage, 
distant, is the Pointe du Grand Village, between which and 
the Pointe de Saint-Marc to the eastward, is a bay, the head 
, of which is bordered by the Plage de Saint-Marc. There is 
anchorage here in 11 fathoms, sand and rotten rock, protected 
from winds between KW. and EKE., 700 or 800 yards from 
Saint-Marc point, with the rocks ofit* Pouldon x:)oint on with 
those oif the Pointe de I’Echelle or Beg-er-Squele. If the 
wind shift from between the points mentioned, vessels must 
put out, as the anchors will not hold well. 

To the eastward of the above, off the Port du Pouldon Pouidon an- 

’ c borage. 

vessels can also come-to, but it is a poor anchorage. Com¬ 
munication with the shore is made by vessels anchoring in 
this neighborhood, in the inlets of Herlin, Port Blanc, and 
Pouldon. 

The southernmost point of the island is the Pointe de Pointe de 

* I’Echelle. 

I’Echelle or Beg-er-Squele. Along here the bottom is rocky 
and the tidal currents make a bad chop sea. The coast to 
the eastward of it trends to the northeastward to the Pointe 


340 

Port d’Arzic. 

Loc-Maria. 

Basse de la 
Bade. 

Pointe de Ker- 
donis. 

Les Galores. 


Anchorage. 


Reservoir. 


Le Palais. 
Roads. 


E. AND NE. COASTS OF BELLE-ILE. 

d’Arzic, to the northward of which is the anchorage of the 
same name, where pilots and coasters often drop anchor. 
There is also a signal station here, with yellow house. Geo¬ 
graphical number B. G. P. N. 

The port of Loc-Maria dries at low water; a jetty, built a 
few years ago, protects the inner harbor. 

The Basse de la Bade is five-sixths mile off the east coast 
of Belle lie. There being a depth of 28^ feet over it at low 
water, it is not a dangerous place except to very large ves¬ 
sels, and the latter would not be apt to come so close 
inshore. 

The easternmost cape of Belle-Ile is Kerdonis point, to 
the northward and eastward of which is a buoy, so placed 
that vessels doubling it will also clear Les Galeres. 

The latter are a series of rocks, the principal head of 
which dries 3 feet at low water springs. The ebb-tide sets 
on it strong, and must be guarded against. They are 
cleared in the eastward by keeping Arzic point open of Ker¬ 
donis point, and in the north by keeping the houses of Le 
Palais in sight. At night, the light of the latter town open 
of the land leads clear. 

Along the coast, one-half mile off' shore, between Kerdo¬ 
nis point and La Truie, 2i miles to the west-northwestward, 
there is anchorage in 5J fathoms and over; but it is only 
tenable with the winds from WNW. through south to SSB. 
To the northwestward of La Truie the water is shoaler. * 
The favorite anchorages are off' the Port d’Yorck and the 
Port Blanc. The object of greatest interest to vessels here 
is the reservoir at Port Larron. Watering ship is an easy 
matter, as boats may be filled at high water through a hose. 
The key is at Le Palais. The landmarks generally used to 
fix a ship’s position, when intending to anchor, are the Gros 
Kocher, the black tower on La Truie, and Kerdonis, Ramo- 
net, and Taillefer points. 

Le Palais is a town of 5,000 inhabitants, and gives its 
name to the roads in the NE., where vessels can anchor in 
2 to 11 fathoms water, according to the distance from shore. 
The bottom is sand and mud, and the shelter is perfect from 
winds between south and WNW. In the day-time vessels 
generally come in on the range of Le Palais light and church, 
anchoring when the lead shows the desired depth. At night 


Belle He from NNW^. 



lie de Groix from, seaward. 



He de Groix from the £«Lst 














































































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;■ ' r 

3^«> K- , ' fe ' '■ > ''' 

■ - • ■•/■• ' " -‘ -j'. 

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' tow.5x^*H »|itoi p^'>^#m« ^^e'^1t4ior bfi*^ c 5E2 v 

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of Be)to lie. ~ toiin^s » tiepth of i!i4 foot «#%’4ir r at 

water^ it i« Btofc a da^j-^iapiii^ i/tj|«e to irorj^ Mtfft v 

f aliil tkb Uit^^r out Ini to to n& j|i> alaW ’ 




'H' 


inahofu. 

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tbc ourthwanl mto tmAmrard «)f wMnh pl 4 <;ol|r^ 

that vesaala doublingU wilt a)^ titor 1 1 i n>T^>niif\J j 
Xbo (litter ore « aertoo tif ixieAM, tito iw^c^i^UtenA ot 
‘*y^, which til'ieo 3 or. low wotifi Hprin^ Tbu t ' 

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Ui*': ll^•fe,llff*nlri^>^l^| Wl'lto Jtor-. 

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ffm% Btooc ■ of r^iNiroob tototolt 

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loottor, on to^oiooKi^ hp &1U4 at oij^b waier throc^ o Mtoc^: 
tiH' hpjr to Of Lo rototo. Tho tomlmo^ko geoArrO^ nsod to 
fix % jfa>diltii|| tri>(»ii liitoiiiiiii||| to tinctior, ont the ffrttoi 
tho hto<?lt tower on Im Tittto ood Kerdayi^ 

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LfiLi-^rr' 000 onisi Of tot 


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ooehef! wto«#i ||toto«4.oho«% *^iit iA%ifcto*fle|Xli* 4,1 



LE PALAIS AND SAUZON LIGHTS. 


341 


vessels generally come-to in fatlioins, with Le Palais liglit 
S. 600 W., and La Teignouse light N. 31° E., or Les Pou- 
lains light just hidden by Taillefer point. 

Rainonet point open a little to the westward of the mill 
of Port Salio, gives 2J fathoms at low water j by opening it 
a little more, fathoms will be found; as Les Poulains 
point opens from Taillefer point, the depth is 8J fathoms, 
and this may be considered as the last range, as the west¬ 
erly swell is felt outside of it. 

When the wind shifts to !N^W., especially after a SW. 
blow, the sea becomes too heavy in the roads for vessels to 
remain j they must find a lee under the SE. shore. iTor 
can they remain in the roads during SE. winds. 

The harbor of Le Palais dries at low water. A tide- Palais har¬ 
bor. 

gauge, distinctly visible outside, gives the height of water 
inside. At the lower end is a wet-dock, the gates of 
which are open for 1 hour at high water; only 9 feet can 
enter it. 

On the mole-head, on the south side of the entrance to 47° 

Le Palais harbor, is a circular tower 27 feet high, exhibiting 3O09'2i" w. 
a fixed white, dioptric, fourth-order light, 30 feet above sea- 
level, visible 9 miles. 

Nearly due east, li miles from Le Palais light, is a p® ® 
of the same name, with 28 feet of water on it. 

The Pointe de Taillefer is the most prominent headland on 
the NE. coast of Belle-Ile, and is recognizable by a sema- semaphore, 
phore. It is high and bold, with no outlying shoals. The 
dwelling of the signal-station is yellow. Geographical num¬ 
ber, B. G. P. N. West-northwest, 2J miles from it, is the pomteduCar- 
Pointe du Cardinal, immediately off which is a shoal, called 
the Basse de Sauzon, marked by a red tower. 

To the southward of the latter [)oint is the village of Sauzon. 
Sauzon, the port of which is an arm of the sea extending 
three-fourths mile to the southward, with 6 feet of water. 

On the extremity of the mole of Sauzon is a fixed red, Light: Lat.,470 

22 '22" N.; long., 

dioptric, fourth-order light, 30 feet above sea-level, visible 3° 13 'i4" w. 

7 miles, exhibited from a circular tower 27 feet high. A 
screen hides it when bearing S. 14° W., in line with Les 
Bruideaux and La Basse Gareau, which shoals are also 
marked by towers. In the NE. quadrant it only lights the 


342 


BIRVIDEAX BANK—CURRENTS. 


Life- 
station. 

Bancs du Tail 
lefer. 


Plat e a u 
Birvideaux. 


S. point of Qniberon peninsula and the passage of La 
ing Teignouse. There is a life-saving station here. 

Off the NE. coast of the island, to 3 miles from Taillefer 
point, are three banks, called Taillefer banks, over which 
are depths of 6.J to 9 fathoms, with exception of one 21-foot 
patch, which bears due E. from Les Poulains light, and 
NNW. J W. from Kerdonis point, 
des The Plateau des Birvideaux is 6 miles from Belle-Ile and 
from the main-land, and directly between Belle-Ile light 
and Port Louis. The sea always breaks on it in bad weather, 
the shoalest spot being at a depth of only 8J feet. The 
plateau is about 1 mile wide, and the whole of it should be 
avoided in rough weather. 

Belle-Ile light, open to the westward of Borderun, leads 
clear of the plateau outside of it, as does also Les Poulains 
light, open 1 point to the eastward of Belle-Ile light. Les 
Poulains light, open to the westward of the same, leads in¬ 
side the plateau, and La Teignouse light, hidden by point 
Beg-er-Laii, clear to the northward. 

Tidal currents. The tidal Currents in the neigliborhood of Belle-Ile act 
differently in different places. At low water, off Kerdonis 
point, the tide runs NW., while off Les Poulains it sets 
WK W.; at half-flood it sets to the KE. off both these points, 
but ENE. off’ Taillefer. At high water the direction is SE. 
and the strength 3 knots off Kerdonis point, but off Taillefer 
and Les Poulains the direction is S. and the strength much 
less. During the remainder of the ebb, the directions change 
from the southeastward to the northwestward. 

In the offing there is a retardation of i.^ hours in the 
makingof the tides, and the directions of the currents change 
with the hands of a watch. 

The strength and direction of the tidal currents are some¬ 
what modified in the middle of the channel of Belle-Ile, 
(separating it from the main land.) At low water the current 
sets WNW.; at half-flood KE., turning through K. At about 
this time, if the winds have been southerly, instead of com¬ 
pleting the rotation to the southward, the current backs 
round to NNE. and K. at high water; at half-ebb the 
direction has reached SW., returning to WN W. at low water. 
The greatest strength is knots at springs, at half-ebb. 
The maximum speed of the flood is at half-flood, and never 
exceeds 2 knots. 


In the offing. 


In Belle-II 
channel. 


LAND-FALL. 


343 


In case of easterly winds the rotation is complete, but, 
during the first two hours of ebb, the strength is insignifi¬ 
cant, even at springs. At high water the set is ENE., with 
a speed of one-half knot. 

Belle-Ile is one of the very best land-falls to make on the Land-faii. 

W. coast of France. When seen from the westward, it first 
appears to be three islands which afterward join, making 
high land with steep cliffs. Villages and a score of mills 
are afterward seen in profile on it, and in the SW. part will 
be noticed the tall light-tower. 

In thick weather soundings are an invaluable assistant Soundings, 
to the navigator oft' this coast. At 114 miles from Belle-Ile 
light, on its parallel, are de[)ths of 93 fathoms over sand 
and shells; at 97 miles the same bottom is found at 82 
fathoms. The sand becomes mixed with mud at 80 miles, 
and 44 miles off is pure mud at 62 fathoms j at 20 miles from 
the light the depth is 55 fathoms over mud. The nature of 
the bottom then changes to mud, gravel, and rock in 50 
fathoms water 13 miles from the island. 

Vessels coming from the northward and bound for the 
Loire would find an advantage in passing to the northward 
of Belle-Ile, with northerly or nortlieasterly winds. If 
coming from the westward, the land-fall would determine 
on which side of it to pass. If bound for the Vilaine or 
Quiberon bay, especially the latter, distance may be saved 
by coming in to the northward and through one of the 
passes between the islands off Quiberon peninsula. 

In addition to the directions given above, it may be stated 
that from the Plateau des Birvideaux Belle-Ile light is seen BeUe-ne. 
between the eclipses, but very feebly. When it shows con¬ 
stantly bright, the vessel is to the southward of the bank. 

To avoid Les Poulains, keep La Teignouse light bearing 
nothing to the northward of H. 70^ E., or give a berth of 1 
mile at least to Les Poulains light. 

Should a vessel come round the east end of the island, to ^Making Le 

Palais roads. 

find a lee, she should steer for Ilaedik light X. 62° E. 

(nothing to the eastward of that) until Le Palais light is 
made, when the course may be laid north, and finally H. 

720 w. for the latter. 

Passing round the west end of the island, keep I or 2 
miles from shore, so as not to be becalmed, and to avoid 


344 


BELLE-ILE CHANNEL. 


To clear the 
TaiUefer banks. 


Belle-Ile' chan¬ 
nel. 


the strength of the currents, until Belle-Ile light is seen to 
the eastward of that of Les Poulains, when the shore may 
be approached to one half mile, in the day time. At night 
use bearings of the lights; after Belle-Ile light passes to 
the eastward of the flash light on the north point, steer E. 
by S. for Haedik light until that of La Teignouse bears N. 
31 o E., when steer away from the latter bearing so or a 
little more to the northward, and anchor in fathoms, 
when Le Palais light bears about SVV. by W. i W. 

The Taillefer banks may be approached quite close, even 
in heavy weather, although the sea break on them, but the 
semaphore on Haedik island should be kept to the south¬ 
ward of the middle of Pile aux Ohevaux. The latter open 
to the southward of Haedik island leads clear to the north¬ 
ward. A good mark for the shoalest spots on the banks is 
Merezel mill S. 28° 37' W. over an angle of Le Palais cita¬ 
del. By opening the former a little to the southward of the 
citadel, a vessel will come clear to the eastward, and bring¬ 
ing it in range with th^ barracks leads clear to the west¬ 
ward. 

To avoid the many other rocks near the northern shore 
of Belle-Ile channel, so many landmarks must be used that, 
for a captain beating about there for the first time, the best 
directions would be not to go farther than 3 miles from 
that island. By examining then the different shoals, he 
would be able to place all the landmarks the second time. 

Black buoys mark Oariou and Le Chenal, and a red and 
black one Gouevas shoal. The red tower of Les Esclassiers 
can be approached to 220 yards, after which the high rocks 
of Houelh6res should be kept open to the northward of Houat 
island. On nearing the latter, the red tower of LeEouleauneed 
not be given a very wide berth, and a ship might tack on the 
alignment of it and the Esclassiers tower, were it not for the 
chain of rocks on the southern border of the Ohaussee de 
Pile aux Ohevaux, between which and Houat island are 
safe depths. To remain clear to the southward of them, 
let the reef of Drevantec-Bras, the southernmost of the 
chauss6e, only come slightly on with Haedik island, from 
the time that Le Eouleau tower is slightly open to the east¬ 
ward of that of Le Bonen-Bras, until it has passed to the 
westward of that of Le Grand Coin. A ship may then 


LE FOUR PASSAGE. 


345 


stand on to 225 yards of the red and black bnoy of the Pot- 
de-Fer before tacking, and pass quite close to Pile aiix Che- 
vaux. The SE. point of the chaussee is avoided by keeping 
the red tower of Er-Palaire on with Eiaedik island, and 
while between it and the Chariot buoy, limiting the rocks 
in the SE., a vessel should tack before it (Er-Palaire) opens 
to the southward of Houat island. To the eastward of the 
Chariot buoy, the buoy should always be kept to the north¬ 
ward of Belle-Ile, to remain clear of the Basse des Cardi- 
naux. As soon as Cohfournik tower comes in line with 
Saint-Gildas-de Kuys the boards may be extended in the 
NE. Le Four light due east leads clear to the southward 
of all dangers off Haedik island. 

Large vessels frequently double Haedik island as well to 
enter Quiberon bay as to make the Yilaine or the northern” 
channel to the Loire. Several precautions should be taken. 

The landmarks used are Haedik and Le Four light-tow- Landmarks, 
ers, and the steeples of Saint-Gildas, (on the Grand Mont,) 

Le Croisic, Bats, and Gu^rande. , 

Coming in from seaward, neither Les Cardinaux rocks Directions, 
nor Le Four bank should be approached nearer than IJ 
miles. As the current of the ebb makes 2 knots an hour at 
times, it would be well to steer for either Le Four or Dumet 
islet if coming from the westward, and for the Grand Mont 
if coming from the southward. 

In the former case steer N. E. for Le Four light 
that of Haedik is two points abaft the beam, (N. 32° W.,) 
when change the course to K 27° E., steering afterward ac¬ 
cording to what anchorage is to be made. 

, If bound for the Vilaine, the course N. 27° E. should be Making the 
kept for 9 miles, when Penlan light will be seen on the ho- viiaine. 
rizon, bearing N. 52® E., which latter Course will take a ves¬ 
sel into the mouth of the river. To verify the bearing of 
this light, the dome of the old abbey of Pri^res is in range 
with it, beyond. 

This course is made at night even better than by day.* 

It is advantageous to come in with the flood-tide, as it sets 
directly with the vessel. 

* It has been decided to construct a light on the southern point of Les 
Grands Cardinaux, and it will probably soon be done. 



346 


APPROACHINa TITE VILAINE. 


Caution. If the ebb-tide be making while the vessel is off Haedik 

island, allowance must be made for it, as it sets on the 
rocks. In case of the wind falling it would be well to head 
one point to starboard of the course, or even to keep on the 
first course, N. 80° E., for Le Four, long enough to pass be¬ 
tween Guerin and Fournier shoals, that is, until Haedik light 
bears N. 53° W., when N. 20^ E. will take a vessel clear of 
all dangers to the bearing of Penlan light, N. 52^ E. Nei¬ 
ther of the two shoals mentioned is much to be feared, save 
in very heavy weather, as the least depth on the former is 
11 fathoms, and on the latter 16 fathoms, at dead low 
water. 

^Comin^ from Coming from the southward in fine weather, the course 
should be shaped to pass midway between Haedik and Le 
Four light-towers, the only precaution necessary being to 
avoid the Basse Capella, the north end of Gu6rande bank, 
which breaks with very little swell, although covered by 3f 
fathoms water. To pass clear of it keep Haedik light bear¬ 
ing to the northward of N. 50*^ W., until that of Le Four 
bears to the eastward of Ni 57° E. 

In heavy lu case of heavy weather it would be best to make the 
weather. course given, to the westward of Fournier shoal; that 

is, 2 miles from the little black tower of Oohfournik. Dur¬ 
ing flood-tide the smoothest water would be found in that 
channel. With the ebb-tide there would be a pretty bad sea 
there, but no breakers as on the shoals to the eastward. 

Currents in Le Allowance should be made for the currents in Le Four 
Four Passage, passage, particularly by vessels beating in. At low water 
they set west with a speed of knots. In the early flood 
the set is NW., and afterward for the Vilaine, and the 
strength at springs is 2 knots. The first of the ebb sets 
south, but it is speedily inflected to SW., and at that time 
it attains its maximum strength, which is 3 knots when 
spring-tides coincide with a freshet in the Loire. 

During freshets in the Loire and the Yilaine, and with an 
easterly wind blowing, the currents are well defined, the 
waters of the Loire dividing into two branches, one of which 
passes outside of Le Four and Belle He, while the other 
skirts the coast, joins the current of the Vilaine, and they 
together run to the westward and out through La Teignouse 
pass. 


TIDES IN THE VILAINE. 


347 


Vessels beating ia with the flood-tide against northerly 
winds should pass as close as prudence will allow to Haedik 
island, as the current sets miles NNE. near Belle-lie; in 
beating out against the flood-tide and southerly winds, keep 
near Le Four. 

It is high-water springs at Trehiguier at 3^ 48“ ; at neaps 
the time is very variable, being between 30 and 65 minutes 
before the hour at Saint-Nazaire. In the upper part of the 
river the propagation of the tide is very slow, it being high 
water at Redon 2| hours after Trehiguier. The heights of 
high water are practically the same as at Saint-Nazaire, the 
mean spring rise being 16 feet at the mouth of the river. 

Low water occurs 23 minutes later than at Saint-Nazaire. 

The current of the ebb during a freshet in the river Tidal currents 
attains a velocity of 5 knots ofl’ Trehiguier, and in the nar¬ 
rower parts of the stream. The strength of the flood is 
much less, and, in fact, after heavy rains, this tide is pre¬ 
vented entering. 

During the summer the tide turns half an hour after low Turn of the 
water, at the mouth of the river, and earlier near the south 
shore than near the northern. 

The entrance to the Vilaine is recognizable by the reddish Entrance, 
cliffs, the light-tower, Prieres abbey, and Billiers steeple, on 
the northern side of the mouth; on the southern side, Hal- 
guen point is about equal in height to the cliffs opposite, 
and two mills will be seen to the right of the spire of Pen- 
netin steeple. 

Three channels lead into the mouth of the river, one to 
the northward and one to the southward of the rocky bank 
named La Grande Accroche, and one called the southern 
channel. 

To pass to the'northward of La Grande Accroche, steer N. chan- 

520 E, for Prieres Abbey, a little to the left, and touching 
Penlan light house. In this channel are depths of only 5 
feet at low water. 

Prieres Abbey N. 46o E., over the guard-house to the right 
of the light, leads in to the southward of the bank, with 
depths of 4=1 feet at low water. Whichever of the two chan¬ 
nels be taken, port the helm as the black beacon on the rocks 
off Kervoyal point comes in line with the mill of Bile point, 
near Penerf, and steer S. 87° E. away from it. This course 


348 


ENTERING THE YILAINE. 


At night. 


Southern chaiX’ 
neh 


Directions. 


leads into the river, and passes 328 yards north of the red 
iron beacon of the Petit Sdc6, which shoal dries feet at 
low water.* 

The latter range is not easily made, particularly at high 
water, when Kervoyal beacon shows only a little above 
waterj in that case another alignment may be substituted— 
that of the isolated tree of Landrezec over the northern¬ 
most of Kervoyal rocks. 

It is not vitally important to keep exactly on the align¬ 
ment, as the bottom is muddy and quite even; only a few 
rocks have to be avoided. 

The entrance may be approached at night either with 
Haedik light S. 57° W. astern, or Le Four light astern S. 
by E., until Penlan light is made in the N. 57^ E., when 
steer for the latter, and when about 1 mile from it head to 
the eastward and steer by the lead. The former of the two 
courses is in some respects the better, because making the 
one light ahead, with the other astern, is a good check on 
the vessel’s drift. 

After two hours of flood-tide, 13 feet will be found over 
the bar, and the muddiness of the water reduces consider¬ 
ably any sea that may be heaving. 

During the ebb, however, the sea is short, and if there 
be heavy weather outside a line of breakers extends across 
the entire entrance, save between the Varlingue rocks. 

• The southern channel, which leads in among the Varlingue 
rocks, is very narrow, but has 2| feet more water than the 
direct channel. No vessel of any size should attempt to 
enter without a pilot. 

Steer ENE. for Pennetin (or Peu-lStain) mills, until at a 
distance of three-fourths of a mile from Belair islet, which 
shows plainly against the shore, when Prieres Abbey will 
pass in range with I’Avalac mill beyond, bearing N. 23° E. 
Shape this course until Pennetin steeple comes over Oama- 
ret beach,t when port the helm and steer to pass 380 yards 

^This beacou is shortly to be replaced by a red tower, which will be 
much more distinctly visible; when that has been done, a vessel may 
leave the course for Prihres Abhey as soon as this tower is seen in mid¬ 
stream up the river, and head up with it one point off the starboard bow. 

t A vessel can head up-stream when the beacon of Petit S6cd comes 
in line with Moustier chapel beyond, if it can be seen. 



TOWNS ON THE VILAINE. 


349 


to the northward of the Petit Sec6 beacon, (or tower,) or 
with it 1 point off the starboard bow. 

A vessel leaving the river through the main channel may Leaving the 
use the same bearings as in entering. 

After passing the Seq6 beacon, steer for the Maison Tr6- Tr6higaier an- 
higuier in range with the Kerguen woods beyond, pass°^^^^ 
about 1 cable from Seal point, and come-to in 3Jto 4.J fath¬ 
oms abreast Tr^higuier village, 200 yards from the river 
bank. This is only a temporary anchoring-ground, as a 
bad sea reaches there sometimes; besides, no supplies can 
be obtained from the town, vessels having to get provisions 
from Muzzillac, on the right bank. 

About 1 mile up stream from Tr6higuier is another an- Bouteiiie 
chorage, just above Vide Bouteiiie point, where a good lee 
is found, with 16J feet at low water. 

The town of Rennes is situated at the junction of the Rennes. 

Ille and Vilaine rivers, about 62 miles from the mouth of 
the former. Portions of it are very handsome, and among 
the institutions of interest to mariners are several good hos¬ 
pitals. The population is 52,000. Nothing larger than 
barges can ascend to it. The markets are the best in Brit¬ 
tany. 

Redon is a place of about 5,500 inhabitants, situated at Redon, 
the junction of the two branches of the canal from Nantes 
to Brest, on the right bank of the Vilaine, about 25 miles 
from the mouth. One of the principal industries is ship¬ 
building. Vessels of 200 tons can reach it. The total dues 
and charges on a schooner of 88 tons, cargo inward 150 tons 
coal, outward 80 tons pitwood, are about 150 francs. La¬ 
bor, 3 francs per day. 

La Roche Bernard is on the left bank of the river, 9 miles La Roche Ber- 

. nard. 

from the mouth. The stream here is spanned by an iron- 
wire suspension-bridge, supported by two granite piers, 626 
feet apart. The elevation of the roadway above liigh 
water, 108 feet. 

Having shaped a course N. 27° E., as directed ^^ove, 
through the passage west of Le Four, a vessel bound for 
Quibeion bay would make only 5^ miles on that course, 
steering then N. 52^ W. away from Le Four light, passing 
1 mile from La Recherche bank. 


350 

Ac night. 


Passage de 
Teignonse. 


Directions. 


Caution. 


LA TEIGNOUSE PASS. 

At night steer up between Le Four and Haedik lights, 
and change course, witli the former astern, to K 52° W. 
This course leads through the northern part of Haedik 
roads to a good anchorage in the upper part of the bay, on 
the line between Navalo and Port-Haliguen lights, bearing, 
respectively, FT. 63° E. and S. 63° W. with La Teignouse 
light south. 

On this long course, K. 52° W., a check can be kej)t on 
the vessel’s drift. When La Teignouse light passes in 
line with Belle-Ile light, the white one of Orac’h should 
bear N. W., and that of Port-Haliguen IS. 85° W. As the 
vessel advances into the bay Le Four light becomes very 
dim. Belle-Ile light can only be readily seen from the rig¬ 
ging, as the beam of light here passes overhead. With a 
little attention, however, it can be indistinctly seen from 
deck. 

There are several other passes for vessels entering or 
leaving Quiberon bay j those of La Teignouse, Le Beni- 
guet, and Les Sceurs. 

Under the name of the former are five passes, between 
the peninsula of Quiberon and the Chauss^e du Beniguet, 
two of which dry at low water, and are only of occasional 
use to coasters. Of the others, the Passage de la Teig¬ 
nouse proper has depths of to 27 fathoms, and can be 
entered at night. It also admits of beating in or out. 

The Gouevas bank divides the southern entrance to this 
pass into two branches. Coming from the westward to pass 
to the northward, between it and the Basse du Ohenal, 
bring La Teignouse light-tower midway between the Petit 
Mont and the Grand Mont of Saint-Gildas, or simply steer 
to pass midway between the buoys on the two shoals, pass¬ 
ing the red one of Gouevas also to starboard. Depths 
of over fathoms at low water are carried to 275 yards of 
La Teignouse. 

The black and red buoy, marking the Basse Nouvelle, 800 
yards to the southeastward of the light, is sometimes 
dragged under water by the current; in that case pass 
about 350 or 400 yards from the light, or else over one-half 
mile from it. 

To the southward of the Basse Nouvelle the channel is 1 
mile wide. 


LA TEIGNOUSE PASS. 


351 


To the eastward of G-ouevas the eutrance to La Temiiouse 

. ^ , ofGouevas. 

pass IS 1 mile wide, and is limited by the red and black and 
the red buoys on the shoal in the westward, and the tower 
on Les Esclassiers in the eastward. Lomariaker steeple, 

N. 320 range beyond La Teignouse light, leads 

through the middle. 

To enter this pass at night, bring port Navalo lights. At night. 

430 E., open a little to the eastward of that of La Teig¬ 
nouse, and steer for it so until about 300 yards from the 
latter, when port the helm a little to pass at that distance 
from it. 

Vessels beating in or out are warned when to tack on the,^® eating 

^ through. 

N. side of the channel by the buoys on the Basse du Oheual 
and Basse Cariou, and the black tower on Er-Pondeu. On the 
S. side the red tower of Les Esclassiers may be approached 
to 2 cables’ lengths in the W. and one-third mile in the N, 

In addition to the buoys on Gouevas, the northern edge is 
on the alignment of 'Beg er-lan mill, (on the SW. point of 
Quiberon peninsula,) and the black tower on Le Four rock, 

(2J miles W. ^ N. from La Teignouse light.) The same 
tower in line with Quiberon semaphore (well inland) gives 
the southern edge. 

The pass to the northwestward of La Teignouse is deep, Pass west of 
and is sometimes a convenient short-cut tor vessels leaving 
the upper part of Quiberon bay. All dangers will be avoided 
by keeping the Esclassiers tower open 5° to the eastward 
of the SE. point of Belle-Ile, until Toul-Bras islet comes in 
line with Conguel point, (southern extreme of Quiberon,) 
when change course 1 point to starboard to gain Belle-Ile 
channel. 

There is a narrow pass to the eastward of the Esclas- eSssSs ^ ^ * 
siers tower, which has the advantage of feebler currents 
than in the main channel. Kerdenet mill, on Belle-Ile, 

S. 450 30' W., over a salient angle of Le Palais citadel, 
leads through it. There is but scanty room for leeway to 
the westward of this range. 

At low water in La Teignouse pass there is a 3-knot cur- _ Currents in 
rent to the NW., changing to NE. at half-flood, at which pass, 
point it remains steady until high water. When that occurs 
it sets ENE. with but little speed, and turns quickly to S. 
and SW. at half-ebb, running 2 knots an hour, and finally 


352 


BENIGUET PASS—HOUAT ISLAND ANCHORAGE. 


Pas sage du 
Beniguet. 


Houat island 
anchorage. 


Directions. 


returns to NW. The maximum strength of the ebb is 4 or 
5 hours after high water. It is comparatively slack water 
at hours after high and low water. 

The pass between the Chaussee du Beniguet and Houat 
island is quite easy of navigation since the construction of 
the red towers on Le Bonen Bras and Le Rouleau, on the 
southern side of the channel, and the black one on Le Grand 
Coin on the northern. Either one can be approached to 55 
yards with 5J fathoms draught. After passing the former, 
a vessel should not come to the eastward of the alignment of 
it and the western extremity of Guric islet until Le Grand 
Coin comes in line with Les Poulains point. 

There is a 3|-fathom shoal in the middle of the northern 
part of the passage. To pass to the westward of it, keep 
Le Grand Coin tower in line with the eastern extremity of 
Belle-lie, and to pass to the eastward of it keep the same 
tower in line with Le Palais light or steeple. 

To the northward of Houat island is good anchorage for 
large vessels in 4J to 5 fathoms water, over sand and mud. 
Gales of wind have been ridden out there. 

Vessels seeking this shelter generally come in round 
Haedik island and Houat bank. Having doubled them, 
steer for the high rock of La Vieille, in line with the W. 
l)oiut of Houat island, and come-to between the tormerand 
the village. 


Passes north Vessels caii pass between file aux Chevaux and Houat 

of He aux Che- ^ 

vaux. island, and between the latter and Haedik, with not less 

than 17 feet at low water. These passes are only practica¬ 
ble during the day. 

Directions. Coiiiiug from the northwestward a vessel may head for 
file aux Chevaux, open to the southward of Haedik island, 
until one-half mile from it. Then starboard the helm and 
steer for Les Sceurs beacon open slightly to the northward 
of Haedik light, until about 2 cables from it. A NE. course 
then leads out into Quiberon bay. 

The shoalest water is found abreast file aux Chevaux. 
The black and red buoy of Meii er-Vag is passed to port in 
following the above directions, but it may be passed to 
starboard with Le Palais behind the middle of file aux 
Chevaux astern. This range leads out into Haedik roads, 


DREVANTEC AND LES SOEURS PASSES. 


353 


to the southward of the GJ-foot shoal of the channel of Les 
Sceurs. 

Another route is easy to follow, passing to the northward 
of the latter. Starboard the helm on approaching Men-er- 
\ ag buoy, and steer to pass midway between the towers on 
Er-Spernec Bras and Er-bonzes NE. by E. j or else steer N. by 
E. |E., to pass midway between the tower-beacons on Men- 
er-HouteliguetandEr-Spernec-Bras. Taking this latter clian- 
nel the ship should run as nearly as possible midway between 
the towers to clear Er-Spernec-Bihan on the starboard side 
and an unnamed shoal on the port, passing afterward about 
450 yards to the westward of Men Groise tower-beacon. 

Drevantec pass is quite wide, with a least depth of 16 pa^slge^ ^^®” 
feet at low water, and leads into one of the foregoing chan¬ 
nels. To enter it from the southward, steer JST. 16^ E., with 
the two eastern points of Houat island. Beg Pel and Er 
Yoc’h, in line, and after passing Pile aux Chevaux, head 
more to the eastward to pass to the northward of Men-er- 
Vag, between Er Spernec-Bi-as and ErBouzes, (the latter in 
line with Dumet island,) or to pass to the southward of 
Men-er-Yag as directed above. 

The pass of Les Soeurs is tolerably easy of navigation Passage des 
since the erection of a red tower on Er Palaire; the least 
depth is 22 ^ feet at low-water springs. 

Approach Er Palaire tower on any course between east Directions, 
and by N. (though north) until about 2 cables to the 
westward of it, when head N. 18^ E. for Er Bonzes tower, 
with Les Soeurs beacon one-fourth point off the starboard 
bow. When abreast the latter, steer round it keeping 1 
cable’s length off', and a northeasterly course will lead into 
Haedik roads. 

Ships of large draught have beaten through here, with ^ ^ ° " 

good pilots. The only dangers to be watched are the shoal 
off' Bonen-bras, on the west side of entrance, and the patch 
to the southward of Er-Bouzes. The former is avoided by 
not letting Les Soeurs beacon open three-fourths point to 
the right of Er Bouzes, until Men-er-Yag buoy comes in 
range with Houat steeple, which latter alignment should 
then not be passed in the SW., abreast of Bonen-bras. 

With regard to the rock of Bonen, 140 yards to the south¬ 
ward of Er Bouzes, the best directions are not to come 
23 N c 


354 


HAEDIK ROADS. 


Currents. 


Haedik roads. 


Directions. 


At night. 


Port de 
Ch^vre. 


Beating - r oom 
in Quiberon bay. 


nearer than 2 cables’ lengths to the southeastward or south- 
westward of Er Kouzes. 

The tidal currents in the pass of Les Soeurs constitute 
the principal difficulty in piloting through it. The first of 
the flood runs north, 1 hour after low water; and the ebb 
sets to the southward one-half hour after high water. The 
strength of the latter at springs is sometimes knots. 

A fleet of large vessels can maneuver in Haedik road¬ 
stead, coming-to afterward with good holding-ground. 
The only danger in the N. is a 13-foot sand-bank ; the tower 
of Men Groi’se in line with the middle of the low neck 
uniting the SB. portion of Houat island with the centre, 
leads S. of itj to clear it in the SE., Er Eouzes tower must 
not come more than half-way from Grimaud Pel (SE. of 
File aux Chevaux) to Drevantec-bras; in the KE., Les 
Grands Oardinaux should not be brought in range with Er 
Goualennec. 

Steer to the northward to pass a half-mile to the east¬ 
ward of Kohfournik, the exterior one of Les Oardinaux 
rocks, and then NNW., anchoring to the northward of Er 
Goualennec, or with Yoc’h-Bras just open from Pointe Hal- 
6 negui. 

To make the roads at night steer up the pass W. of Le 
Four until this light bears SE. by E. J E., and La Teignouse 
NW. by W. J W., when head for the latter with the former 
astern. Round-to with starboard helm when Haedik light 
bears SW., and anchor in 8 fathoms water, soft mud bottom. 

Having one light ahead and one astern, the vessel’s drift 
is easily detected and checked. 

Vessels sometimes run into Port de la Ch^vre for water, 
which can be obtained of excellent quality. The depth is 

fathoms, sand and mud. The usual anchoring-ground is 
W. or SW. of La Ohevre rock. To reach it from the north¬ 
eastward, steer S. 58^ W. for Er Palaire tower just open of 
the Pointe du Yieux Chateau. 

The limits have already been given of La Recherche and 
I’Artimon banks. There are several others that vessels 
must steer clear of The Banc de Quiberon is always left 
in the W. in beating, tacking ship before the buoy on the 
S. edge of the bank comes on with Les Esclassiers tower, up 
to the time that Port-HaUgueu light is in range with Loc- 


QTJTBERON BAY. 


355 


Maria steeple. After that the boards may be extended in 
the W. to fathoms water, with Olibarte buoy under the 
redoubt of Oonguel. At the head of the bay, the limit of 
the 4J-fathom depths is with Quiberon semaphore to the 
southward of Beg-Rohu point, or Lomariaker mill, in the 
northeastward, well open to the right of the W. point of the 
entrance to Saint-Philibert river. All the shoals between 
the Grac’h river and Saint-Gildas are avoided by keeping 
Carnac steeple bearing to the northward of X. 49^^ W.; or, 
failing good compasses, Saint-Gildas steeple over Grand 
Buisson beacon leads in deep water, in front of Orac’h 
river and up to abreast of the western beacon of Les Buis- 
sons de Meabau. The Basse des Buissous lies outside the 
range of the two beacons, and should not be approached 
nearer than a half mile. The other shoals, of Meaban and 
Thoumiac, are cleared by keeping the western beacon of 
Les Bnissons de M4aban to the right of the Crac’h lights. 

There is a shoal spot, called the Roche Souris, covered by 
4 fathoms w^ater, miles to the southward of the mouth of 
Crac’h river. Its bearings are the western beacon of Les 
Buissous midway between Xavalo light and Petit Mont, 
and Orac’h steeple as much to the westward of the higher 
light of that river as the latter is from the lower. The 
head of the shoal is only a few square yards in extent, and 
has good depths on all sides. 

With the exception of this rock, the bottom of the bay, 
within the limits given above, is very level, of sand and 
mud. In some few places are flat rocks, but the anchors 
quickly drag over them, and immediately hold in the adja¬ 
cent mud. 

The shores of the estuary of Le Morbihan are cut up by 
innumerable inlets, and, running among its many islands 
and shoals, are only small channels, leading to Vannes and 
An ray. 

The town of Vannes, the population of which is 15,000, 
is situated at the head of an inlet in the NE. corner of Le 
Morbihan. It has a small harbor, almost surrounded by 
moles, which can be entered by vessels of 150 tons burden. 
Coasting-vessels take away the principal articles of ex- 
port, such as coarse breads, hardware, beer, salt; the im¬ 
ports comprise wood from Norway and Sweden, coals from 


Roche Souris. 


Le Morbih an. 


Vanoes. 


o56 


TIDES IN LE MORBIHAN. 


England, and iron-ore from Spain. Ship-building is car¬ 
ried on. 

Auray. The population of Auray is about 4,000. The town is 

situated 7 miles up the river of the same name, which emp¬ 
ties into the western part of Le Morbihan, near the en¬ 
trance. The princupal occupation is fishing, and the only 
trade is coastwise. 

Tides in Le The tides in Le Morbihan present several phenomena, be- 

lorbihan. „ , , . . 

cause of the narrowness of the mouth in comparison with 
the extended tidal area inside. * 

It is high water, at full and change, 5 minutes after the 
time at Saint-Nazaire; but at the quarters it is 6 minutes 
before. Low water occurs, at full and change, 25 minutes 
before Saint-Nazaife, and at the quarters 3 minutes before. 
When it is high water outside, the flood continues to pour 
in, the height of the tide, one-half hour after high water, 
still being greater in the offing than inside. This is more 
especially the case in the eastern extension of the bay, the 
height of high water at Auray being approximately the same 
as at Port Xavalo and Saint-Nazaire, but being 1| feet 
less at Yannes, at full and change. Low-water level at 
Port Kavalo, as well as in the Auray river, is 1 foot higher 
than at Saint-i^azaire, while in Le Morbihan proper the 
difference is, at times, 3 feet. 

Currents in the The tidal Currents, off the entrance to Le Morbihan, have 
a general tendency NW. and SE., turning in the opposite 
direction from the hands of a watch. At low water there is a 
2-knot SSE. current; this diminishes in strength, and, after 
IJ liours of flood, has a minimum speed, and an east-north¬ 
easterly direction. At the fourth hour of flood-tide the set 
is to the NNE., with a velocity of 2 knots, and at high 
water, north. One hour after high water is again a mini¬ 
mum strength, and one hour later still the set is SW., 2 
knots. 

Nearer the entrance of Port Navalo, both the directions 
and strength differ materially from the above. The great¬ 
est speed at springs is 8 knots abreast of Port Navalo, and 
the current follows the channel. 

Among the rocks, off the entrance, the flood-tide runs 
NE., and the ebb SW.j the retardation of slack water is 


LE MORBIHAN—DIRECTIONS. 


357 


only one half hour; the Crac’h river and the head of the 
bay deflect a part of the flood-tide to the northward. 

The landmarks used in entering Le Morbihan are Port 
Xavalo light tower, the church-steeple of Badeue, which 
looms up very high in the interior, and the steeples of Ar- 
zon, to the right of the light, and Lomariaker and Auray to 
the left of Baddue. Besides these the tower of Bagueu-hir 
and the beacons of Le Grand Buisson and Le Buisson de 
POuest are visible from some distance. 

The rocks on whicti these latter are built give good indi¬ 
cations of the height of the tide, the Roche des Boeufs 
being covered when the tide has risen 5 feet, the Grand 
Buisson de I’Ouest feet, and Kerh616gui rock 12 feet. 
The plateau of Baguen-hir, if. of the tower, has two heads, 
the northernmost of which protrudes Ilf feet above low 
water, and the one nearer the tower 12f feet. 

Of course, this mode of estimation is of use only in very 
smooth weather. 

There is a channel with 29J feet of water over the bar of 
Le Morbihan. Large vessels sometimes enter and anchor 
off Lomariaker, 

While in the offing bring Badeue steeple open of Port Na- 
valo point and over the eastern part of Petit Yeisit island, 
and steer for it until Arzon mill comes over the middle of 
Arzou bay, when port the helm and bring Badene steeple 
to just touch the E. end of Petit Veisit island. When 
Arzon mill is well on with the N. point of Arzon bay, bring 
Badene steeple over the middle of Petit Veisit islet and 
stand on past Port ifavalo point. When inside the latter, 
bring Moutou beacon (which will be seen off the starboard 
bow) in line with the summit of He Longue, and wlien at 1 
cable length from the former, starboard the helm and bring 
it gradually astern in range with Kernes mill (the first one 
E. of Arzou) and steer away, being careful not to let the 
ship be drifted to the northward of that alignment. Some¬ 
times the tide runs so strong that the ship’s head must be 
laid W. to make the course. After passing Gregau tower 
(to starboard) steer K. 2Go 30' W., on the range of Kerhern 
mill outside Le Grand Harnic, and anchor on that range 
between the cross-bearings of Larmor mill, between Renaud 


Landmarks. 


Tide-marks. 


Ship-channel. 


Directions. 


358 


LOMARIAKER ANCHORAGE. 


Anchorage. 


Caution. 


Direct course 
to Lomariaker. 


Port Navalo 
anchorage. 


and Grand Veisit i.slands, and the same mill nearly touching 
the N. point of Renaud island. 

The anchorage is good, the depth being from to 8J 
fatlioms, over gravel and sand. The strength of the cur¬ 
rents never exceeds 4 knots, even at springs. 

The courses given are those to be followed at slack water. 
During the flood-tide several precautions would have to be 
taken. After passing Port Navalo, if the course wwe kept 
for Mouton beacon until 1 cable from it, the ship would be 
set right on it when endeavoring to come to port. To pre¬ 
vent that, when abreast Le Faucheur steer for Gregan tower, 
with the bath-houses of Port Navalo astern barely on with 
the northern point of Port Navalo b^iy, and starboard hard 
when the Mouton beacon approaches Motenno point. The 
ship will fly round very quickly then, the current catching 
the stern. 

During the ebb-tide there is less difficulty, the only pre¬ 
caution necessary being to come quite close to Mouton 
beacon. 

It was directed above to bring Badhne steeple over the 
eastern part of Petit Veisit island, to enter the channel, 
but vessels coming in through La Teignouse pass would 
not have to head off to the eastward to make the alignment 
immediately. To remain in 5 fathoms water, it would only 
be necessary to keep Arzon steeple on with Le Petit Mont, 
twice its own width from the north point, until the former 
alignment is made. 

Vessels of not more than 16 feet draught can make a 
more direct course for Lomariaker than the one given above. 
Bring Badene steeple over the middle of Le Petit Veisit, and 
steer for it until past Port ISTavalo bay. Then port the helm 
1 point to give a wider berth to Goemorent point, and after¬ 
ward steer for Kerhern mill a little outside of Le Grand 
Harnic, between it and the red beacon of Bier. 

Pilots sometimes take vessel bound in quite close to Port 
Navalo point, but in case of sailing-vessels it is dangerous 
to do so with east or SE. winds, for fear of being becalmed 
under that lee. The advantage consists in being out of the 
strength of the current. With the ebb-tide, it is perhaps 
best to stand in well to the northwestward of the bay, and 
afterward cut across as quickly as possible. 


CRAC'H RIVER. 


359 


Small vessels can beat about among the numerous rocks 
and shoal patches off the entrance to Le Morbihan and the 
adjacent coast, and can shorten distances considerably; but 
for vessels drawing over 12 feet, the channel described above 
is alone practicable. 

No vessel should attempt to beat up without a pilot. 

None but small coasters can enter Saint-Philibert river, 
and, having no commerce, it possesses no interest for mari¬ 
ners. 

Vessels can anclior in the Orac’h riv'er in IGJ to 23 feet 
of water; 17 feet can be taken over the bar at low water. 

To enter the river, with a free wind, steer for the two 
lights in line, N. 12^ W., until 200 yards from the point on 
which is the light-Uouse, when starboard the helm and fol¬ 
low the line of buoys, leaving them all to port, except that 
of Le Dahl, the last one. With the wind from the west¬ 
ward, steer for the upper light-tower open to the westward 
of the lower, and over the old guard-house. This range 
leads well to windward of the Basse de Mousker. 

At night come in on the alignment of the lights, and an¬ 
chor soon after leaving it, using the lead as a guide. 

Vessels drawing over 15 feet should come-to below Le 
Dahl buoy. Above it the depths vary from 10 to 23 feet. 
Every vessel should moor. 

The harbor of Port-IIaliguen dries at low water; coasters 
sometimes enter it to ground. 


Saint-Philibert 

ver. 

Crac’h river. 

Directions. 


At night. 
Anchorages. 

Port-Haligueu. 


CHAPTER X. 

QUIBEEON PENINSULA TO PENMAEC’H POINT. 
Variation in 1876.—lie de Groix, 19° 45' W. 


West coast of 
Quiberon penin¬ 
sula. 


Port Maria. 


Life-boat. 


Semaphore. 


Port Guen. 


Port Penlhi6. 
vre. 


The west coast of the peninsula of Quiberon is bold and 
cliffy, and terminates in Beg-en-Aud, the NW. point. There 
are no distinctive marks on the coast, nor are there any out¬ 
lying dangers. 

The little bay of Port Maria is just to the eastward of 
Beg-er-Lan,the southern extremity of the peninsula, and is re' 
cognizable from the offing by the ste*eple of Loc-Maria to the 
northward. The entrance to the port has been made easy 
by the erection of two towers, one red and one black, on 
Basse Plate and Men-er-Moroch, respectively. Coming 
from the northward in good weather, the point of rocks 
off Beg-er-Lan may be passed with LaTeignouse light over 
Saint-Clement shoal, on which the sea is always breaking. 
If a rough sea be running, a vessel should not go inshore of 
the range of the black tower of Le Four (350 yards south 
of Saint-C14ment shoal) on with La Teignouse. The port is 
afterward entered with Loc-Maria steeple, H. 26^ E., be¬ 
tween the two towers mentioned above. 

There is a life-boat at Port Maria. 

There is a warping-buoy, 110 yards from the red tower, 
in the direction of the jetty. 

To the northward of Beg-er-Lan is a signal station, with 
yellow dwelling. Geographical number, B. G. P. L. 

In Port Guen, one-half mile to the southward of Beg-en- 
Aud, vessels anchor when unable to beat against the fresh 
easterly winds. The best place to come-to is in the north¬ 
ern part of the bay, near the shore. 

On the narrow neck of the isthmus connecting the penin¬ 
sula with the main land, is Penthievre fort, 11 miles N. 50^ 
E., from Beg-en-Aud. It is sometimes used as a landmark. 

From Beg-en-Aud point the coast begins to be generally 
low, with numerous sand-downs, and is lined by an exteu- 


Coast. 


TEVIEC ISLAND-ANCHORAGE. 


361 


sive beach, off which, in several places, are shoals, extend¬ 
ing some distance to seaward. The shore makes a curve to 
the northwestward and westward, about 14 miles in length, 
forming a very wide bay, the KVV. extremity of which is 
the Pointe de Gavre, on the SE. side of the entrance to 
Lorient. 

Good landmarks, along here, are the steeples of Carnac, Landmarks. 
Plouharnel, Ardevenne, and Plouhinec. 

Teviec island is one of a number of rocks and shoals Teviec. 
lying off the coast to the northward of Beg-en-Aud point. 

The centre of the island is IJ miles KW. by W. from Pen- 
thievre fort. 

There is anchorage inshore of Teviec island, in 21 to 3J Anchorage, 
fathoms water, with good holding-ground. 

To reach it, coming from the westward, with a free wind, Coming from 

. JO j 7 Tivestward. 

being north of the parallel of the island, steer for Carnac 
steeple, N. 76® E., open a little to the northward of the 
high rock of Men Toni. Pass 100 yards from the latter, and 
bring by the wind on the starboard tack, anchoring li ca¬ 
bles inshore of Teviec island, in 3J fathoms water. 

There are several channels by which vessels coming up southwest ward.™ 
from the south westward can reach the anchorage. One is to 
the northward of An Auter shoal, and is entered with Carnac 
steeple, K. GO'^ E., open to the right of Guernic island, 
rounding the latter at 350 yards, and anchoring when it 
oiieus from Teviec island. 

Or An Auter shoal may be passed to the northward, 
steering for Plouharnel steeple, N. 37° E., a little open to 
the right of Guernic island. 

The other passes are hardly practicable for vessels of any 
size. 

At 5J miles N. 15^ W. from Beg en And point is the Ardevenne 
Pointe d’Ardeveune, which projects but slightly from the^^’™^' 
general line of the beach, but off which rocky ledges extend 
one-half mile to the westward. At 1 to miles, between 
south and SW. by S. from it, are shoals and rocks also, the 
principal of which, called Roheliau, shows above high water. 

On the range of Ardevenne steeple and Rohellan rock, 
f to IJ miles from the latter, are a group of shoals called 
Les Pierres Noires. Penthi^vre fort in line with Teviec 


ETEL RIVER AND LIGHT. 

islet leads to the southward of them, and Eohellan on with 
Etel village leads east of them. 

Vessels can anchor anywhere off this portion of the coast, 
during the prevalence of easterly winds. A lee can also be 
found from westerly breezes under Rohellan in fathoms 
water, over sand. To make the latter, steer for Ardevenne 
steeple open 1 point to the northward of Rohellan, pass 
about 225 yards from the latter, and come-to 100 yards 
east of it. 

Etel river empties into the sea a little more than half 
way from Beg-en-Aud point to Poiute de Gavre. In it is 
deep water, but on the bar, which is constantly shifting 
somewhat, the depth varies from 2 to 3 feet at low water. 

A life-boat is stationed here. 

entrance to Etel river, on the right bank, is a 
3° 12 'retZ, dioptric, fourth-order light, elevated 40 feet above 
sea-level, visible 7 miles, exhibited from an iron tower. 

Directions. The bar of the river is rarely practicable during the win¬ 
ter season. Strong winds from SVV. always make changes 
in the channel, which are only indicated by breakers. Under 
ordinary circumstances the entrance is approached with Le 
Sac mill open to the southward of the light,’heading a little 
more to the southeastward to cross the bar. That done, 
give a good berth to the point on which is the light, and 
then skirt the NW. shore to avoid the middle bank, which 
does not shift. 

Anchorage. Abreast the village is good holding-ground at 3| to 5 
fathoms, but the river is too narrow to berth large vessels. 
There are good depths also above the village as far as the 
bridge. 

Currents. The current of the ebb, in the river, attains a speed of 5 
knots, and during freshets the flood-tide does not flow at 
all. 

R o c h es de At 2 luiles NW. by VV. ^ W. from the mouth of Etel river, 

Magoero. - 7 

one-half mile ofl‘ shore, are the Roches de Magoero, which 
protrude nearly 20 feet above low-water level. Opposite 
them on the coast is a signal-station. 

Tidal currents The tidal curreiits between Belle-lle and Lorient are 

between Lorient 

and Belle-lle. souiewliat influenced by Quiberon bay. Along the coast to 

Penthihvre fort, 2 miles from shore, the early flood runs N., 
bearing full on the coast afterward. Farther off shore the 


362 


Anchorage. 


Etel river. 


Life-boat. 


ILE DE GROIX. 


363 


direction of the half-flood is ENE. and the speed 1 knot j at 
high water there is a feeble current for a little while to the 
southeastward, turning, as the ebb begins to make, to SW. 
off Etel river, and WXW. in Belle-Ile channel, with a 
strength of 2 knots at springs. At low water the set is 
NW., and it is slack water 1 hour later. The winds influ¬ 
ence the surface currents considerably; if the breeze be 
fresh from E. or SE., the current of the ebb makes all day 
with a strength of 2J knots. There is a difference of three- 
fourths of an hour in the times of the rotations near shore 
and 8 miles off. Vessels beating to the southeastward with 
the flood tide should keep rather well inshore, and anchor 
during the ebb-tide, as not only would the sea be bad, but 
nothing would be made against it. 

The general northwesterly current frequently mentioned 
early in this work is also felt off shore. 

L’lle de Groix lies 3 miles to the southward of the coast iiedeOroix. 
to the westward of Port Louis. It is a little over 4 miles in 
length WNW. and ESE., with a breadth not exceeding 
miles. It is quite high, consisting essentially of a plateau 
some 150 feet above the sea. The island affords no port of 
refuge ; some few of its bays have been protected by jetties, 
but the greater part of these dry at low water, and the ne¬ 
cessity of being so constantly at sea in bad weather accounts 
for the seamen being reckoned among the best on the French 
coast. 

The shores are bold and free from dangers except off the c^ts! “ ^ ® 
SE. extremity, the Pointe des Chats, south of which is the 
plateau of the same name, forbidding a nearer approach 
than 1 mile. 

The Basse des Chats is situated outside this plateau. ItciSts* ** 
is a dangerous spot from the strength of the currents, par¬ 
ticularly during the ebb-tide. The steeple of Lorient in 
line with La Peyriere light-tower a little to the left of Port- 
Louis citadel, N. 8^ 30' E., leads at a safe distance E. of it. 

A vessel can pass with plenty of water between the shoal 
and the plateau, with Lorient signal-tower open of Port- 
Louis citadel j it would be best not to attempt it except in 
smooth weather, as at other times the breakers join those 
of the coast. At night a vessel should not come to the 


364 


LIGHTS OF ILE DE GROIX. 


hel. 


Pointe 

Croix. 


westward of the range of the lights of Lorient church and 
La Peyriere. 

Basse du Gui- The depths over the Basse du Guihel are bat sligiitly in¬ 
ferior to those adjacent, bat the sea is sometimes heavier on 
it than elsewhere. Port-Louis citadel in line with Gavre 
point leads to the westward of it. 
de la A short mile to the northward of Les Chats point is the 
Pointe de la Croix, the eastern extreme of the island. On 
it are a fort and a light. 

La Croix light: The light IS fixed white with a redfiash every 3 minutes, 
K?’ hmg.^so^s'lt is exhibited at an elevation of 171 feet above sea-level, 
11 " w. from a square tower 39 feet high, with dwelling attached, 

and is visible 10 miles. The illaminating apparatus is diop¬ 
tric, of the fourth order. -Th^fiashes are preceded and fol¬ 
lowed by short eclipses. 

There is a life-boat stationed at the point. 

The north coast of the island is frequently, but not deeply, 
indented. Off point du Spernec, 1 mile by W. from 

La Croix point, are a number of little shoals, none of which 
extend one-fourth of a mile out. 
du northern extreme of the island is Le Groguon point, 

and 1 mile N. by E. of it is the Basse du Grognou, covered 
by 6 fathoms. There is a semaphore on the point, 330 yards 
to the westward of a recloubt, with yellow building. Geo¬ 
graphical number, B. K. JS. M. 

Pen Men point is the NVY. cape, and is very bold, so that 
a vessel may come within 450 yards of it in smooth weather 
without danger; but in heavy weather a bad sea is found 

Basse deGroix. between it aud the Basse de Groix, an SJ-fathom shoal 2J 
miles to the W. by K. 

Basse Busick. The Basse Busick is a 6J-fathom shoal 830 yards west of 
the coast abreast the light. 

ligdu! L^t. So'S yards SB. by S. from Pen Men point, one-third of 

S' 4 ?'’from the west coast of the island, is a square tower 
75 feet high, with enlarged base or patten, showing, at an 
elevation of 194 feet above sea-level, ^ fixed lohite^ dioptric, 
first-order light, visible 18 miles. This will be designated 
as He de Groix light, in referring to it. 

Semaphore. Xosterveii, ill the S\V. angle of an old redoubt south 

of this light, is a semaphore signal station, with yellow 
dwelling attached. Geographical number, B. R. S. M. 


Life-boat. 


Pointe 

Grognon. 


Semaphore. 


Pen Men point. 


ANCHORAGE N. OF ILE DE GROIX. 


365 


On the southern shore of the island the principal head¬ 
lands are the Pointe Saint-Nicolas and the Pointe d’Enfer. 

With west or S W. winds ships can anchor to the eastward 
of the island; but should the wind haul to the WNW. the 
swell soon becomes very heavy, and it is frequently neces¬ 
sary to run for Quiberon bay or Lorieut. The best ranges 
for coming to are He de Groix light tower over the sema¬ 
phore in the NW. part of tlie island, and Tudy steeple be¬ 
tween Port Lay and Port Tudy, (S. J W.) The bottom there 
is sand at 11 fathoms. 

In good weather in the day-time it is simple work to reach 
the anchorage, merely doubling Pen Men point at two ca¬ 
bles’ distance. In heavy weather pass outside of Basse de 
Groix, with Ploemeur steeple, (several miles inshore on 
the main land.) bearing NE. | E. 

At night, in fine weather, steer for He de Groix light, and 
Pen Men point will easily be seen. Double it and anchor 
with the light bearing S. 79^ W., La Croix light S. 43^ E., 
Port Louis lights open 1^ of each other, and La Peyri^re 
light open 4P to the eastward of that of Lorient church. 

In bad weather it would be advisable to double the east 
end of the island with the two last-named lights in line, not 
coming to the westward until La Croix light bears SW. He 
de Groix light should not be let bear to the westward of S. 
86 ° W. until the Port Louis lights are within one degree of 
each other. 

Should a vessel be obliged to double the west end of the 
island, she should j)ass, as nearly as could be estimated, 3 
miles (not less than that) to the westward of the light. 

Off I’lle de Groix the directions of the tidal currents 
change with the hands of a watch. At low water the set 
is WNW., with a speed of half a knot at springs. After two 
hours of flood it runs NN W. and has the minimum strength 
half an hour later. At high water the current runs lialf a 
knot to the SSE. Two hours after it runs south, turning to 
SSW. at half-ebb, and increasing in v^elocity until low wa¬ 
ter, when it attains its maximum. Nearer the coast the 
speed diminishes, and the rotation precedes that in the of¬ 
fing by one or two hours. 

Between Gavre point, on which are a signal and a life-sav¬ 
ing station, and the Fort de Loqueltas, which is IJ miles 


Ancliorage. 


Directions. 


At night. 


Currents. 


Port Louis 
bay. 


3G6 


PORT LOUIS LIGHTS. 


50^’ W. from it, is the entrance to Port Louis and Lori- 
ent. This arm of the sea extends to the northward, and 
receives the waters of the Blavet and Pont-Scorf rivers. It 
is commonly called Lorient roadstead or Port Louis bay. 
The shores are very much cut up by bays, which dry at 
low water, and several islands and shoals make the navi¬ 
gation a little difficult. 

The dwelling of the signal-station on Gavre point is 
painted yellow. Geographical number B. G. P. K. 

Port Louis. On the eastern shore, miles to the northward of Pointe 
de Gavre, is the town of Port Louis, on the N. side of the 
mouth of the shallow bay of Kerbel. On a i^oint to the 
westward of the town is the citadel, the angles of which 
are frequently used in making ranges. Abreast it the chan¬ 
nel is very narrow. 

To the southward of the town it is very foul ground j among 
the numerous rocks. La Potee de Beurre is the largest, 
and, being on the edge of the channel, is marked by a red 
tower. Le Pain de Sucre reef, between the latter and the 
citadel, is also marked by an iron beacon, painted in black 
and white bauds, with a can at the top. 

Port Louis At Port Louis, Oil the S. bastion of the fortification on 
l 3 ^'^k^^^ong. S the N. shore of the mouth of Kerbel bay, is a small build- 

21/12^^ "Wr 

iug, 10 feet higli, showing a fixed tchite, catoptric, fourth- 
order light, elevated 20 feet above sea-level. 

Kerbel light. North 60^ 30' E., 1,827 yards from it, is a similar light, 
elevated 02 feet above sea-level, shown from a tower 50 feet 
high. 

Both lights are visible 12 miles, through an arc of 15° on 
each side of the line of direction. In line, they lead through 
the western channel. 

Above the town and citadel of Port Louis there is a wide 
shallow bay, terminating in Pile Sainte-Oatherine, which is 
fortified and lies abreast of Lomikelique, with which it is con¬ 
nected by a bridge. The Pointe de Kerso projects from the 
shore at about the middle of this bay, and off it is the bank 
ot the same name. This latter is buoyed on the outer edge, 
and is no great impediment to navigation. From Saiute- 
Catherine island the shoal water extends to the northward, 
and at three-fourths mile trends to the eastward from Pen 


LORTENT LIGHTS. 


367 


Man6 Fort, off which it is of very slight extent, forming the 
southern bank of the Blavet. 

This latter river joins that of Pont-Scorf at the head of i-orient 
the bay, 3^ miles above Gavre point, and on the left bank 
of the latter, one-half mile from the junction, is the town of 
Lorient. 

In the town of Lorient, exhibited from a snuare church- Lorient light: 

. „ , Lat. 470 44' 53" 

tower, llo teet high, is a fived ichite^ catoptric, fourth-order long. 3 ° 21 ' 
light, elevated 148 feet above sea-level, vivsible 12 miles. 

On La Peyriere mound, in an inlet on the W. side of the LatV^oJa' 
bay, 1,960 yards S. 8^ 30' W. from Lorient steeple, is a square ; ^oiig. 3° 
tower, 26 feet high, with dwelling attached, exhibiting a 
similar light, visible also 12 miles, from an elevation of 75 
feet. 

These lights in line lead through the Passe de Gavre. 

On an eminence in the southern part of the town is a signai-tower. 
signal-tower, from which vessels can be seen 30 miles to 
seaward. It is also used in ranges. 

There is a small red light, visible 5 miles, exhibited from i>ock-Ught. 
a small wooden tower on the end of the jetty on the S. side 
of the approach to the wet-dock. 

Just below the Peyriere light, in the middle of the estu- He Saint-Mi- 
ary, is an extensive bank, capped by Saint-Michel island, 
which is about 450 yards long. It is the lazaretto ot Lo¬ 
rient. The entire bank is buoyed on all sides, which, in ad¬ 
dition to easily made ranges, makes the navigation far 
from intricate. 

Abreast of Saint-Michel island, on the right bank of the shore of 

Lorient ba 3 ’. 

bay, is a large shallow inlet, through which is the channel 
of the small riv^er Ter. The first prominent point below it 
is Kernebel, which is fortified. The shoal water does not 
extend very far out from it, and the edge of the channel 
is buoyed. 

To the southward of Kernebel is another range of shoal 
water, fringed by rocks, the principal of which, La Jurnent, 
opposite Port Louis citadel, is marked by a black tower. 

The same foul ground continues to the fort of Loqueltas, 
which is on the western point of the entrance to the bay, 
and immediately in front of which projects a large rocky 
ledge, called Les Saisies, marked by Kal^ri beacon. 

To the southward of Loqueltas, and to the westward 


368 


SHOALS—TALUT POINT. 


of Gavre point, is a plateau, crowned by several groups of 
rocks, called Les Truies, Les Errants, LeOlieval, and Les 
Trois Pierres. The entire plateau is l,6o0 yards in extent 
NE. and SW., with deep water on all sides. On the west¬ 
ernmost rock of Les Truies group is a red tower, marking 
the SW. point of the bank. Les Trois Pierres are the 
farthest up stream, and are marked by a buoy. There is a 
beacon on Les Errants. 

Les Bastresses. Off Gavre point are two other shoals, close together, 
called Les Bastresses. A large red buoy, off the western 
edge, marks the limit of deep water on that side. There is 
also a channel between them and Gavre point. 

Banc des Southwest from Les Truies rocks is the Banc des Truies, 
1,000 yards iu length, east and west; it is the outermost 
shoal of the entrance to the bay, and the depth over it, in 
some places, is only tvvo fathoms. Being directly between 
Les Truies and Groix island, it is out of steamers’ direct 
route, whether they pass to the eastward or the westward 
of the latter. 

Coast From Loqueltas fort the coast trends nearly west, 2^ 

miles to the Pointe du Taint, and is fringed by rocks and 
shoals, extending, in some places, three-fourths of a mile to 
the southward. It is indented by two bays, I’Anse de Ker¬ 
guelen and I’Anse de Stole, separated by the plateau of 
Kerpape. The former hardly deserves the name of bay, 
the inward curve of the shore being very slight. The lat¬ 
ter runs much farther in. 

Pointe du Ta- Poiute du Talut is very bold, depths of 9 fathoms 

being found at 450 yards from the cliff. Vessels have little 
to gain, however, by passing so close to it, having to head 
out to clear Les Trois Pierres. 

The Basse de la Paille is separate from the foul ground 
bordering this part of the coast. It is 1,450 yards off the 
middle of Kerguelen bay, and has two heads, over one 
of which is a depth of only 3J feet at low water. Its marks 
are the tower on Pierre d’Orge, in line with the trees near 
the citadel of Port Louis, and Ploemeur steeple in the 
KNW., near the end of some woods. 

Grazu rock is quite large, and the black tower on it helps 
to make it easy to see and avoid. It is 1,030 yards south of 


Grazu rock. 


CURRENTS IN LORlENT BAY. 


369 


the point separating Kerguelen and Stole ba 3 ’s. It extends 
about 3 cables to the SSE. of the tower. 

About 900 j ards west from Grazu tower are three shoals, 
covered bj^ to GJ feet of water, called Les Trois Pierres. To 
avoid them Grazu tower should not be opened to the east¬ 
ward of the fortifications in the southern part of Port Louis, 
when less than one-half mile to the westward of the former. 

It is high water, full and change, at Port Louis at ll*". 
Ordinary springs rise 14^ feet, neaps lOJ feet. Mean neap 
range 6 feet. 

The current of the ebb leavingXorient roadstead is very 
powerful, attaining a speed of 5 knots at springs when 
there is a freshet in the rivers falling into it. It follows 
the direction of the main channels, bearing full on Port Louis 
citadel, and being then deflected toward La Jument and 
La Pot4e de Beurre. Near the entrance to the bay it sets 
on Les Bastresses, but at half-ebb, being influenced by he 
movement outside, it runs on Les Errants. In the western 
channel, the early ebb sets on Les Truies and Le Oheval, 
but afterward follows the channel. 

The current of the flood begins at north, turning to the 
northeastward, and so on, to the right, to south for the ebb. 

In the winter season, after heavy rains, there may be a 
steady surface current running out abreast La Jument, but 
in the deepest part of the channel an undercurrent will be 
making up, during the flood-tide, and might interfere with 
the good working of vessels of great draught. 

L’lle de Groix being at the inner angle of the triangle 
formed with Les G14naus and Belle-Ile, will rarel}^ be the 
first laud made in clear weather. Vessels should not at¬ 
tempt to approach the island on its parallel (47^ 38' N.) 
either by night or by day, unless the position be very cer¬ 
tain, or unless the weather be clear enough to get bearings 
of Penmarcdi, Peufret, or He de Groix lights from far 
enough to seaward to clear La Jument rock, the southern¬ 
most of the lies de Gldiian, and 8J miles south of the par¬ 
allel of the former light. Even under very favorable cir¬ 
cumstances it would not be a prudent course, as it leads 
only about 1 mile to the southward of that rock, and the 
speed of the general northwesterly current is sometimes 2 
knots. 

24 N C 


Les Trois 
Pierres. 


Tides. 


Tidal currents 
in the bay. 


Caution. 


Approac h i n g 
lie de Groix. 


370 


APPROACHING ILE DE GROIX. 


Soundings. 


At night. 


Caution. 


Caution. 


Landfall. 


At night. 


A very safe course to make for He de Groix is N. 70^ E., 
or more to the northward. Vessels coming from the south¬ 
ward have nothing to fear, as Belle-Ileis the safest possible 
landfall to make, and as the general current is northwesterly 
the position would have to be very much out to strike to the 
eastward of it. 

A line of accurate soundings extends to S. 70° W. of 
Groix island, and the distance off on that course can be 
found from the depth. A vessel in 82 fathoms over gray 
sand and broken shells is 78 miles from the light. Muddy 
sand will be found at 63 jniles distance, and mud alone at 
62 fathoms, 42 miles off. Depths of 55 fathoms will be 
found at 24 miles. At night the revolving light of Pen- 
marc’h and the fixed and fiash light of Penfret will have 
been made before reaching the latter depths. 

Should rocky bottom be found before making either of 
these lights, the ship’s head should be laid to the southeast¬ 
ward. Should this bottom be on the edge of Les Glenans 
plateau, that course would lead to the muddy deeps off lie 
de Groix. If the rocky bottom be found on the southern 
border of the deeps, there would be no danger in standing 
on on that course until in 33 fathoms over rock, and there 
would be every likelihood, save in very thick weather, of 
making either Belle-Ile light or one of those on Groix 
island. 

In case of SE. winds, allowance must be made for a WI^W. 
current running 1 knot during the flood-tide, and 2 knots 
during the ebb. With a breeze from seaward the westerly 
set will not be felt; the rotation will be such as i)reviously 
described. 

There is not often any uncertainty as to the land made 
here. Coming from the westward, and too far south to 
sight Penmarc’h point, either Groix island or Belle-Ile or 
both may be made. The former will be recognized by its 
being smaller and having a square light-tower in the north¬ 
ern part, in place of the tall, round one in the southern part 
of the larger island. 

It should be remarked that at night, except in foggy 
weather, vessels coming from the southward will perceive 
Belle-Ile light, which revolves every minute^ before He de 
Groix light can be seenj and that in approaching He de 


ENTERING PORT LOUIS BAY. 


371 


Groix, the flashing light on its eastern point will be seen 
shortly after the one on Pen Men point. In like manner, 
vessels approaching from the westward will not be exposed 
to the risk of mistaking the lights ; for, before He de Groix 
light will be visible, they will almost always have seen Pen- 
marc’h point light, which revolves evary half minute^ and also 
Penfret island ‘nwiX flashing light. 

Vessels bound for Lorient pass to the northward or south¬ 
ward of rile de Groix, according to the landfall. In the 
formercase in smooth weather, the island maybe approached 
boldly, but if there be much swell on, it is best to keep 3 
miles from the west point, outside the Basse de Groix, to 
avoid the heavy sea. To double the eastern point bring 
La Peyriere light-tower and Lorient steeple in line, and 
keep them so. 

There are several passes leading into Port Louis or Lori- 
ent bay, of which the widest and most frequently used is 
the Passe de I’Ouest, which has a least depth of 3i fathoms 
at lox^water springs. 

The western i)ass is on the range of Port Louis and Ker-, Passe d« 
bel lights, N. GO^ 30' E., which alignment strikes the west¬ 
ern part of He de Groix near the semaphore. In day-time 
the hut from which the lower light is exhibited not being 
visible very far, a vessel may steer for Kerbel light-tower 
with this semaphore astern, making the true alignment 
afterward. The bastion on which that tower is situated is 
quite distinct, and its angle gives approximately the same 
range. 

When Lorient steeple bears N. 8^ 30' E., in line with La 
Peyriere light-tower, starboard the helm and keep the align¬ 
ment until beyond Port Louis citadel. 

If intending to anchor in Port Louis roads, port the helm Louis 

2\ points after passing the red buoy near the citadel, and 
come-to in 7| fathoms water, mud bottom, at 200 to 700 
yards from tlie citadel, with Lorient signal-tower over the 
western extreme of Saint-Michel island. The red buoy is 
100 yards above the north bastion, in 13J feet of water. 

Vessels of lighter draught can anchor closer to the east 
bank, in 3J fathoms water, with Port Louis steeple over the 
easternmost of the trees east of the citadel, and Larmor 


372 


BEATING IN. 


At night. 


Beating in. 


Basse du Che- 
nal. 


steeple over the NW. angle of the citadel. The bottom is 
mud, and the shelter excellent. 

Entering the western pass at night is very easy, using 
the same range as in the day. Port Louis light will be seen 
at the water’s edge. Lorieut and La Peyriere lights hav 
come in line, steer for them. The night is scarcely ever so 
dark as to prevent seeing the fortress; when 150 yards 
above the northern bastion, port the helm and anchor. 

With the flood-tide in their favor, vessels can beat in 
through the western pass, against a dead head wind; for a 
large vessel, however, the boards would be rather short. 

Up to abreast of La Paix tower, {blacky) depths of 14J 
feet at low water are kept in making 760-yard stretches. 
The ranges on which to go about are, on the north side, the 
red tower of La Pot4e de Beurre on with Port Louis stee¬ 
ple, N. 590 30' E., and on the south side, Kerbel light 
slightly open to the southward of the fortifications. 

■ Between these ranges is the Basse du Ohenal, covered by 
only 12 feet at low water. It is a very little to the ^W. of 
the line between the towers of Les Truies and Pierre d’Orge, 
490 yards from the latter. Should a captain see that the 
vessel will pass near it on the starboard tack, he should go 
about when the westernmost mill of Lomikelique (1 mile 
above the citadel) touches and begins to open from the 
north angle of the citadel. 

If to the northwestward of the shoal and approaching it 
on the port tack, either go ofl’ a little and keep to the south¬ 
ward of the line between the two towers until half-way across, 
or go about when the black beacon of Les Saisies touches the 
west angle of Port Louis citadel, and make a short stretch 
to the northward. 

When abreast of Larmor, the boards may be extended to 
the northward to bring La Jumeut tower on with the mid¬ 
dle of Saint-Michel island. In the eastward stand by to go 
in stays the minute Lorient steeple comes in range beyond 
La Peyriere light-tower, and beat up between these two 
last ranges. 

The narrowest part of the channel is abreast La Jument, 
the width being only 275 yards. There is no room there for 
missing stays. The boards must be made equally on each 
side of the alignment given. 


S. AND SE. PASSES. 


373 


Vessels drawing 16J feet of water can beat up the western 
pass on the alignment of Port Louis and Kerbel lights; but 
they would have to make short stretches. If the wind be 
in the east they would do better to work up to windward 
outside and come in through the southern pass. 

This i)ass, which is frequently called the Passe de Gavre, 
has a depth of 17i feet at low water. By night or by day, 
steer on the alignment of Lorient and La Peyriere lights. 
This range can be taken to the southward of He de Groix, 
leading clear of the Basse des Chats and up to Port Louis 
roads. 

When abreast of Gavre point care must be taken that the 
ship is not set on Les Errants, if the ebb be running. 

The channel is not wide enough to admit of beating, one 
of the shoals of Les Errants being left only 100 yards to 
port. 

Strangely enough, the SE. pass seems to be not well 
known by the pilots, although there is a depth of 151 feet 
at low water, with a least width of 130 yards. It saves a 
little distance for.a vessel coming from the southeastward. 

To enter it, bring Larmor mill N. 25° W. over the third 
of four store-houses on the beach, or open to the northward 
of the large building known as Larmor factory, adjoining 
them. On making the alignment of Lorient and La Peyriere 
lights, port the helm and keep it. 

The range given would lead rather too close to Gavre 
point for a vessel coming in with a SW. wind. It would be 
better to keep Larmor mill touching the factory until the 
beacon on Les Errants is nearly on with Les Truies tower. 

There are no night-ranges for this pass. 

In Kerbel or Lornalo bay is anchorage in 13 to IGJ feet of 
water, mud bottom, but a 5|-foot bar has to be crossed. 
Springs rising 14 feet, vessels can enter of greater draught 
than could remain inside at low water. 

To enter, keep Kerbel mill on with Kerbel light until 
abreast of Gavre beacon, when port the helm to pass mid¬ 
way between the red and the black towers of Belorc’h, 
coming-to finally 200 yards from the northern shore. The 
anchorage is well sheltered, but has the disadvantage of 
tidal currents running sometimes 4 knots. 


Southern pass. 


Caution. 


Southeast pass. 


Directions. 


Caution. 


Kerhel bay. 


Directions. 


374 


LOBIENT BAY. 


To reach Lori- There are two channels leading to Lorient, one to the 
ent anchorage. qjjq westwaixl of Saint-Michcl island. 

Passage west The latter is completely buoyed, so that either a steamer 

of Saint-Michel .. 

island. or a Sailing- vesscl could go up without a pilot, were it not 

.compulsory to take one in all French ports. 

Directions. • Lca'cing Poi t Louis roadstcud, or coming up between La 
Jument and the citadel, make the alignment of the flag 
staff, to the westward of La Peyriere, and a house on Kero- 
inan point, N. 12^ W. This course leads up to abreast the 
little stream of Kernebel, with nothing less than 19 feet of 
water. 

Shoal. There is a somewhat dangerous shoal only 55 yards to 

the northeastward of this range, called the Eoche de Ker¬ 
nebel. Being to the eastward of the range leading up from 
the lower ba^^, it is only to be feared by vessels leaving Port 
Louis roadstead. It is covered by 7f feet at low water, and 
is marked by a red buoy on the northern edge. To avoid 
it, be careful not to drift 50 yards to the northeastward of 
the alignment of the mill and the house. 

As Kerbel light approaches Kerso point, while on the 
course K. 12^ W. port the helm and steer K. 30^ E., with 
Larmor steeple astern, between the beacon of Kernebel and 
a house to the eastward of it. The pilots use another range, 
which has the advantage bf being ahead, viz; a large pop¬ 
lar between the planh and beacon of Les Soeurs. The plank 
is a rectangular post inshore of the beacon, with a square 
aperture near the top. If this latter range be used, port 
the helm a little, when abreast the N. end of Saint-Michel 
island, to pass 100 yards from the beacon. 

If bound up to the port of Lorient, as far as the wet- 
dock, make the range astern of Pengarne tower, (550 yards 
above Saint-Michel island,) touching the eastern extreme 
of Saint-Michel island. 

Proposed There is under consideration the establishment of a set of 
leading-lights up to Lorient anchorage. At present it is 
impossible to ascend the channel at night without sending 
boats out to make fast to some of the buoys and show lights. 

Passage east of To enter the channel to the eastward of Saint-Michel 
fsianl steer for the signal-tower of Lorient on with the W. 

end of Saint Michel island until on the line between fort 
Sainte-Catherine and Le Cochon beacon, when steer N. 49o 


ANCHORAGE—DOCKS. 


375 


E. for the former, with the latter astern, passing I’Aneno 
buoy to port. When 250 yards from the fort, steer due N., 
and afterward pass to the southward of Pengarne tower, 
with the little bridge connecting the fort with the main¬ 
land astern under some scattered trees. Pengarne tower 
passed, make the ranges given for the western channel. 

The least water in this channel is 3 fathoms. 

Large vessels generally anchor in 3J to 5 fathoms water, 
at the confluence of the Blavet and Pont-Scorf, or make fast 
to the buoys there. The greatest depths are in a channel 
running NE. and SW. abreast of, and 225 yards from, Pen 
Mane point. The eastern limit of this channel is on the 
range of the pier-head light and the SE. angle of the infan¬ 
try barracks, and the western with He Saint-Michel open to 
the westward of Port Louis citadel. Larmor mill on with 
La Peyriere point gives the middle of it. 

A depth of 5 fathoms over soft mud will be found on the 
cross-bearings of Larmor steeple over the N. angle of the 
terrace of Kernebel factory, one-fourth of a point outside 
Saint-Michel island, and the pier-head light of Lorient dock 
a half-point to the eastward of the infantry barracks. 

The bottom throughout here is mud, and the anchors hold 
well anywhere, but it is forbidden to remain between the 
lines of buoys, as it would interfere with the movements of 
the large men-of-war. 

There is a wet-dock just below Lorient, for merchant 
shipping; the floor is on the level of low-water springs, so 
that 16J feet is the greatest draught that can ever enter, 
the tide, swelled by freshets, rising that amount at times 
there. The gates are opened at high water only. Vessels 
arriving off the end of the jetty haul in, assisted by sail if 
the wind permit. They can also moor to the pier and ground 
in the mud at every tide. 

The Port Militaire is in the Pont-Scorf river, and has 
depths of 3f to 5 fathoms. There are two careening- 
docks, with floors 6 feet and 14| feet, respectively, below 
low-water level. 

The tidal currents in the Port Militaire run 3| knots at 
springs when there is a freshet in the river. The flood-tide 
begins to make 20 minutes after low water. 


Ancnorage. 


Caution. 


Wet-dock. 


Port Militaire. 

C areen i n g- 
docks. 

Tidal currents. 


376 


TOWN OF LORIENT. 


^Town of Lori- ^be Origin of Lorient is due to the naval depot founded. 

there in 1GG6 by the French East-India Company, and from 
this circumstance it took the name of Port de I’Orient. On 
the dissolution of the company in 1770, it was made one of 
the stations of the French navy and a free commercial port. 
It is now the first construction port in France, having 
building-ways capable of accommodating at once thirty 
first-class frigates. Most of the iron-clads of the late Impe¬ 
rial navy were built there. The dock yard employs 6,000 
men. There are fine masting-sheers and block-sheds, the 
machinery in which, as well as a portion of that used for 
cable-making, is worked by steam. There are also numer¬ 
ous machine-shops where the engines are built for the navy. 

Lazaretto. The hvzaretto is ou Saiut-Michel island. 

The port is lined with magnificent buildings. The arse¬ 
nal and naval stores are extensive, and the artillery barracks 
are capable of accomm odating 2,500 men. Lorient has also 
a school of naval artillery, and a spacious artillery-ground 
near the town, a school of hydrography established in 1771, 
a large well-conducted commercial college, a preparatory 
school for training for the government academies, gratuitous 
schools of drawing, geometry and arithmetic, a public and 
a good naval library, museums of chemistry and miner¬ 
alogy, an agricultural and various educational societies. It 
is the seat of tribunals of prim ary jurisdiction and com¬ 
merce, and chamber of commerce. 

The town is walled off* from the port, thereby excluding 
all view of the water from the inhabitants. It is regularly 
built, with straight, wide, well-paved streets, and the houses 
are well constructed and handsome. One of the public 
squares is planted with lime-trees, and there are other hand¬ 
some promenades. The public slaughter-houses are re¬ 
markably clean, and the meat, fish, and bread markets are, 
next to those of Kennes, the best constructed and most ex¬ 
tensive in Brittany. A railroad-bridge spans the river just 
above the town. 

Popufation. The population of Lorient in 1872 was 34,660. 

Industries. Besides ship-building, the industries include the manu¬ 
facture of hats, linens, gold lace, and earthen ware. 

Commerce. The trade and commerce of Lorient, of considerable im¬ 
portance once, have greatly decayed. The chief exports 


HENNEBONT—COAST. 


377 


are brandy, wheat, wax, honey, butter, corn, cattle, and 
pilchards, the latter being taken up in great quantities olf 
the adjacent coast, and sent to Nantes for preparation for 
export. 

The town of Hennebont is on the Blavet river, about G Hennebout. 
miles above its confluence with the Pont-Scorf. The stream 
is spanned by a bridge just below the town, and vessels 
have to strike their light spars to pass. A scale, inverted, 
shows the height that can pass under the arch at the differ¬ 
ent stages of the tide. Large vessels rarely ascend to Ueu- 
nebout, although some drawing 17i feet have been taken 
up. Buoys have been placed above and below the bridge 
to assist in hauling through. There is anchorage above it 
as far as the town, and below it as far as the saw-mill; be¬ 
tween the latter and the brick-kiln it is not advisable to 
anchor, nor to let the anchor drag on the bottom while 
clubbing up or down. 

The trade is stimulated by the manufactures of the place Trade, 
and of neighboring towns. Three to four hundred vessels 
yearly bring Spanish iron-ore up the river, a large portion 
of which is transported to Redon. Several factories besides 
the iron works help to create a commercial movement of 
some importance. 

The river channel is buoyed in the lower part, above channel, 
which it is necessary simply to keep in mid-slrearn. 

There is a life-saving station at Loumener. Life-savingsta- 

^ tion. 

At Talut point the coast trends off to the northwestward for coast. 

miles, to Kergan fort, built on a large rock, beyond which 
the general direction is the same, but the nature of the shore 
changes, and a 2 mile sand-beach replaces the bold cliffs, 
and curving very slightly inward forms I’Ause du Pouldu. 

The coast then becomes again steep-to and high with a few 
outlying shoals, and runs 13 miles W. by N. to the Poiute 
de Tr^vignon, considerably indented by inlets and the 
mouths of the rivers Quimperle, B6lon, and Aven. 

The tidal currents off this coast affect in a great measure Tidai ourrents. 
a vessel’s course in beating along it. During easterly 
weather, the current which sets without change to the west¬ 
ward iu the offing, slackens inshore during the flood-tide; 
at half-flood there is even a slight easterly set at times. So 
a vessel beating against an easterly breeze would do well to 


378 


POULDU BAY. 


make sbovt boards off shore, and anchor during the ebb, 
unless it be evident by marks on shore that she is making 
something against it. 

With westerly winds the ebb sets to the westward and the 
flood to the eastward ; but the former is much the stronger, 
being sustained by the general west-northwesterly current. 

The early flood commences at north, and the currents turn 
with the hands of a watch, running longest to I^W. 

The turn of the tides inshore precedes that in the ofBng 
by two hours. 

La Roche des The flrst shoal to the westward of Talut point is La Roche 
des Sceurs, one-third of a mile out from the general line of 
the coast. It is cleared by keeping the red tower of Les 
Truies open of Talut point. 

Basse Garo. At miles farther on to the northwestward, is the Basse 
Garo, covered by 13| feet of water, the outermost of a num¬ 
ber of shoals extending IjL miles from the coast, just to the 
southward of Kergan fort. The other patches are the Grand 
and the Petit Cochons. Outside the Basse Garo there is a 
30-foot patch, which can hardly be included with the others, 
except that the change of depth is so abrupt, from 13 to 5 
fathoms, that it affects the sea on it. Saint-Modd mill, in 
the northward, open from a hedge near the cliff’, leads well 
clear to the westward. 

Pouidu bay. Off I’Ause du Pouldu there is clear water, decreasing reg¬ 
ularly in depth to the beach. There is working-room for a 
fleet, good holding-ground, (sand and mud,) and no difficulty 
in getting under way to make an offing, except with the wind 
at SW. About 1 mile from the beach to GJ fathom 
depths will be found with Guide! steeple over the signal- 
station three-fourths of a mile to the southward of the north 
end of the beach, and the black tower and signal-staff at 
the entrance to the Quimperle river, in line. Vessels lying 
there can obtain pro\ isions in the river. Guidel fort is just 
back of the middle of the beach. 

Quimperi6 The entrance to the Quimperle river is marked by a sig- 
nal-staff* on the right bank, from which piloting-signals are 
made to vessels when the weather is too bad to admit of 
boarding them. No tide-signals are made. At the highest 
spring-tides, 11| feet is the greatest draught that can enter, 
except during the winter season, when the river is almost 


DOUELAN PORT AND LIGHTS. 


379 


always hi^?her. The current of the ebb at the mouth attains 
a speed of 6 knots at springs, and it is next to impossible to 
enter an hour after high water. A black tower has been 
built on the western point of the entrance, and should be 
passed to port close aboard. A black beacon farther up 
should likewise be passed to port at 25 yards distance. 

Off the coast, from the mouth of the Quimperlc riv^er to Basse Porsac. 
Dou^lan, there are but two shoals, one of which, the Basse 
du Porsac, is two-thirds of a mile off shore, covered by 15 
feet of water. It is cleared by keeping Kerlagat mill (to 
the westward of Port de Douelan) well open to the west¬ 
ward of the Vache beacon, (on the left side of the en¬ 
trance.) 

The other shoal, the Basse an Hiss, is to the south westward Basse an lUss. 
of the former, and is covered by 27^ feet; it rarely breaks. 

It is cleared on either side by keeping Kerlagat mill well 
open from the eastern or western points of the big rock at 
the entrance to Port Douelan. 

The Port de Douelan is a creek at best, which can only Port de dou 6 - 
be entered by the smaller coasters. The sardine fishery is 
carried on quite extensively. 

On the left bank of the Port do Douelan, about 1 cable Don^ianii^^hts: 
from the mouth, is a circular white tower, 33 feet high, n.;' long. 3036' 
showing a ivliite, dioptric, fourth-order light, 82 feeti^htT' 
above sea-level. N. 14^ E., 356 yards from it, is another 
white tower, of the same height, showing a similar light, 

118 feet above sea-level. Both are visible 8 miles, and, in 
line, lead in. The lower light illuminates as far to the west¬ 
ward as the Basse Jaune. The other is screened by the 
heights on either side of the entrance. 

Vessels can anchor outside the beacon, on the range of Anchorage, 
the lights; with west winds the sea is rather heavy there. 

Between Doudlaii and Beg-Morg point, the next head- Shoais. 
land in the westward, shoal water does not extend more 
than one-fourth of a mile from the general line of the coast, 
but there are two separate shoals, about one-third of a 
mile off, Karek-Bras aud Basse de Kerc^col, on which the 
sea breaks in bad weather, although the depths are, re- 
spec tivel^^, 5 and 3J fathoms. 

There are two little inlets to the eastward of Beg-Morg 
point, called the Port de Brigneau and the Port de Meryeu. 


380 


BELON AND AVEN RIVERS—LIGHT. 


30" W 


They are very small, bat as there is no sart in the latter it 
is rapidly becoming a resort for fishermen. 

B6ion and Froiu Beg-Morg point, off which are Les Cochons rocks, 
that uncover at low water, the coast extends 2i miles NW. 
I W., to the mouth of the two small rivers, Belou and Aven, 
which are both very shallow, and the bars of which dry at 
low water. 

Aven light: Oil Bcc-ar-Vechen point, on the west side of the entrance 

Lat. 470 48' 00" , . , , , . , . ^ -K 

N. : long. 30 44' to the Aven river, is n fixed light, with 1 green, 1 red, and 2 
white sectors. It shows white when between l>he bearings 
of N. 500 E. and K 32o W.; red, between the latter and N. 
490 W.; white, again, to N. Sfio W.; and, finally, green, 
from the latter bearing to the coast. The red sector covers 
the plateau of Les Cochons and Les Verres shoals, and the 
green all the foul ground skirting the eastern shore of the 
bay; the ichite rays show clear of all dangers. The illu¬ 
minating apparatus is dioptric, of the fourth order, and the 
light is visible 8 miles, exhibited, at an elevation of 125 
feet, from a white stone tower 33 feet high. 

There are several beacons to assist the jiilot in approach¬ 
ing the rivers. On the outermost of Les Verres is a black 
tower, and a vessel coming from the eastward should tack 
to the southwestward when it comes in line with Eousbi- 
cout point, miles ISVV. from the light. There are several 
other shoals off the entrance to the rivers, of which Le 
Trei)ied has the least water, 20| feet. To avoid it, keep to 
the southward of the alignment of Les Verres tower with 
Beg-Morg point, until the light bears to the eastward of N. 
J E. It is easy to approach at night, by observing the differ¬ 
ent colors of the light. The best course to hold for the 
light is N. 39'^ E., which clears LeTrepied. 

From the mouth of the Belou and Aven rivers the coast 
runs SW. and west 2| miles to Pointe des Ragueues, and 
miles farther to the westward, toTrevignon point, on which 
are a fort and signal-station. 

Rocks extend 1 mile to the southward of the former point, 
rile Verte being the outermost. There is a depth of 17^ 
feet inside this islet, and Les Verres tower on with Beg- 
M org point leads through in mid-channel. This range leads 
to the northward of Karek-bras, which has 8 feet of water 


Directions. 


Pointe de Tr6- 
vignon. 


He Verte. 


Karok’bras. 


BASSE JAUNE. 


381 


Immediately south of Eaguenes point is a rock of the 
same name, the south edge of which is oue-third mile from 
shore. 

To the WSW. 1 mile from Pile Yerte is the rock of Meii- 
au-treas, which dries feet. The NW. point of Yerte islet 
on with Rousbicout point leads clear to the southeastward 
of it and the adjacent shoal of Oorn-Yas to the westward. 

Mendu is a rock, which protrudes 16 feet above low-water 
level, three-fourths mile NVY. from Oorn-Yas. Yessels can 
pass between the two with Les Yerres tower hidden by 
Yerte islet. On approaching the latter steer to round it at 
2 cables’ distance, either to the southward or the northward. 

The Basse Jaiine, 5 miles south of the Pointe de Tr(Svig- 
non, is one of the principal dangers in this neighborhood, 
particularly for vessels bound to or from Concarneau, pass¬ 
ing to the eastward of Les Orlenans. The principal head 
dries 1 foot at low water, and breaks in all weathers j shoal 
patches, including Le Pignon, extend miles to the west 
northwestward. To pass to the westward keep Porzou 
manor in line with (N. J W.) or a little to the eastward of 
Keriolet chateau. To pass to the northward of it, keep 
Cigogne fort (in the centre of Les Glenans) less than two- 
fifths way from the light to the semaphore on the island of 
Peufret, or Brunec island open to the northward of Penfret 
island. Cigogne fort in range with the semaphore leads 
clear to the southward. 

At night Penfret light should not bear between west and 
N. 70^ VV., the funner range leading north and the latter 
south of it. Aven light N. 28^ E. shows clear in the east¬ 
ward, and when hidden shows that the vessel is clear in 
the 

Yessels can pass inside Le Corven de Trevignon, a TJ foot 
shoal, miles WSVY. from the point of that name, by 
keeping the south point of Raguenes rock slightly open to 
the northward of Les Yerres tower j when south of Trevig¬ 
non point, make the range leading inshore of I’lle Yerte. 

From Trevignon point the coast runs 7^ miles N W. by N. 
to the head of the bay of La Forest, which is 2 miles wide, 
and the western shore of which extends 1| miles southward 
to the Pointe de Beg-Meil. 


Raguerifea rock. 


Men-an-treas. 


Mendu. 


Basse Jaune. 


At night. 


Corven de Tr6- 
Tignon. 


Coast. 


382 


SHOALS—LANRIEC LIGHT. 


Poi nte de la 
Juinent. 


Le Corven de 
la Jument. 


Channel in- 
•hore. 


Le Cor vie. 


Pointe du Ca- 
bellou. 


Le Cochon. 


L’ 

SOS. 


Anse de Ker- 


La Jument point is miles from that of Tr^vignon ; 
between the two are a number of rocks which forbid a 
nearer approach than IJ miles, until miles to the north¬ 
westward of the latter point ; Keriolet and Porzou manors, 
or Talamot mill on with the trees of Anodet, lead clear of 
them all, including the Corven de Trevignon. 

Off' La Jument point, a little less than miles WSW. 
from it, is Le Corven, a dangerous shoal, which breaks dur-. 
ing southerly winds, although covered by 11 feet of water. 

The passage inshore of it should not be attempted except 
in good weather, in which case it would be best to pass also 
inshore of Nouarnou shoal, two-thirds of a mileE. by S. from 
it. The tower on Le Cochon, slightly open to the westward 
of the point south of Talamot mill, clears everything to the 
eastward of Nouarnou and leads up to the Petit Taro rock. 
The rocks immediately off’ La Jument point are cleared by 
keeping the battery of Concarneau block-house just open 
of Cabellou point. Between these two ranges is a channel 
3 cables in width. 

SE. of Le Corven de la Jument is Le Corvic, with 5^ 
fathoms ov’er itj it breaks- in very heavy westerly gales. 
Beuzec steeple on with Porzou manor leads outside of it. 

The next headland is the Pointe du Cabellou, 1^ miles 
from La Jument point. It is distinguishable by the fort on 
it. Between the two is a small bay, across the entrance to 
which are several shoals. 

At one-third mile to the west-northwestward of Cabellou 
point is Le Cochon, marked by a red tower, on the SE. bor¬ 
der of the channel leading to Concarneau. 

The coast here recedes to the eastward, forming a bay, 
the SE. corner of which is called I’Anse de Kersosj in the 
northern part is the port of Concarneau. 

A good lee can be found in Kersos bay in 12 feet of water, 
with Porzou manor open of the angle in the garden wall, 
and the cross of the chapel over the SW. wall of the reser¬ 
voir. 


T the east side of the entrance to Concarneau harbor 

Lat. 47® 52' Ol" 

3° 54'is a fixed red, catoptric, fourth-order light, visible 9 miles, 
elevated 43 feet above sea-level, exhibited from the top of 
a house 17 feet high, painted white. It illuminates an arc 


CONCARNEAU LIGHTS—LA FOREST BAY. 


383 


of 19^ only, which clears all dangers. It disappears as the 
vessel approaches the shore. 

At La Croix battery, on the west side of the entrance, 

^ fixed ichite, dioptric, fourth-order light, visible 9 miles, ex-N. :'ioug. 3« so' 
hibited, at an elevation of 4G feet above sea-level, from a 
circular white tower 30 feet high. 

NNE. J E., 2,052 yards from the latter, is a fixed white, Beuzec light, 
catoptric, fourth-order light, visible 12 miles, from an ele¬ 
vation of 148 feet. The tower is circular, 30 feet high, and 
painted white. This light is visible only 15® on each side 
of the line of direction with the lower light. The two in 
line lead into Ooncarneau roads. 

It is high water, fall and change, at Ooncarneau at 3^ 12“\ Tides. 

Mean springs rise 13 feet, neaps 9L feet. 

The bay of La Forest has often served as a port of refuge Bale de la 
for vessels caught by a gale of wind inside Penmarc’hj 
is perfectly sheltered from all winds save those from south 
or SE. If caught in there by a gale from that quarter, the 
heavy sea would make it almost impossible to hold on, 
although the bottom be mud. If unable to get out it would 
be best to try to guide the vessel’s drift to the mouth of La 
Forest river, and there would be comparatively no danger 
jn grounding there. 

The bay is considerably frequented by small vessels that 
come there to dredge for a calcareous fertilizer, formed by 
the polyps that live in the bay and accumulate on the bottom 
to the thickness of an inch. The country for miles inland 
is manured with it. 

The two small streams of La Forest and Penfoulic empty streams, 
into the head of the bay. They are very shallow and are 
only entered by boats bringing salt for the preserving of 
fish, and taking away wood. 

’Between La Forest bay and Les Gl^nans, the last of the Tidal currents, 
flood-tide and the first of the ebb run SE ; the last of the 
ebb NW., and the early flood jST. To the southward of 
Concarneau the early ebb and the last of the flood set along 
the coast SE. Ofl’ Beg-Meil point, after two hours’ rise, the 
flood sets NE. The surface-currents are considerably influ¬ 
enced by the direction and strength of the wind. 

The plateau of Les Glenans comprises eight islets and a Les Gicnans. 


LES GLl^NANS—LIGHT. 

number of rocks. The greatest length is 7J miles SE. and 
NW. The islets are on the northern part of it. 

The only landmarks in the group are Penfret light-tow^er, 
the semaphore on an emiuence at the S. end of Penfret 
island, and Fort Cigogne on tbe central island. 

Vessels sometimes enter the archipelago to find a lee, and 
occasionally to load a cargo of soda. 

With westerly winds a ship can come-to under Penfret 
island, about 3 cables from the sandy bay of Castel-Eaet, 
in 6J to 10 fathoms, which depths increase gradually to the 
eastward. The bottom is mud. Or, in case of SE. winds, 
which are quite frequent during the winter-season, alee will 
be found in 5^ to 6J fathoms, 275 yards SW. of Pen a-Men, 
the N. point of the island of Penfret. 

Limits of the Les Pierres ISToires, to the eastward of Brunec island, 

plateau. 

always dry; Brunec, La Huic, Le Oluet, Le Run, and Men 
Arc^hy always showing above water, the northern side of 
the plateau may be boldly approached. The NW. edge is 
on the alignment of the farm houses, to the left of Concar- 
neau, on with the E. end of Pile aux Moatous, or Beg Meil 
semaphore, touching the W. end of the same. In the east¬ 
ward, the limit is on the range of Men Skey rock and Pen¬ 
fret light. This alignment clears Les Laouenou (5J fathoms) 
and Basse an-Ero, which dries 1 foot at low water. 

Penfret light: Ou the northern part of Penfret island is a square tower 
K.; long. 3 ® 57' 72 feet high, with enlarged base, from which is exhibited a 
white light, fixed, with a fiash every 4 minutes. It is a 
dioptric, third-order light, 118 feet above sea-level, visible 
14 miles. In ordinary weather the ecliiises do not appear 
total within 6 miles. 

LaJument. The most dangerous of all the shoals is La Jument, be¬ 
cause of its being the southernmost, in the track of vessels 
bound toward He de Groix, and drying at low water. 57o 
good ranges can be given to clear it, as the landmarks are too 
far off. It is less than 3 miles from the southernmost island, 
but it would be prudent to give the latter a berth of 4 miles 
to clear everything. 

Tidal cnrrents The tidal Currents in the vicinity of Les Glenans fiow to 
every point of the compass, beginning at N. with the last 
of the ebb and early flood, turning, through E., to SE. for 
the last of the flood, then S. and WNW. j when setting to 


384 


Landmarks. 


Anchorages. 


CHANNEL N. OF LES GLENANS. 


385 


the latter point tlie speed is greatest—3 knots. The ebb is 
most strongly felt among the western islands of the group* 

It is high water, full and change, at Les Gl^nans at 3^ Tides. 

11 Mean springs rise llj feet, neaps 11 feet. 

Les Pourceaux comprise three clusters of small rocks, be- LesPourceaux. 
sides a few scattered ones within the triangle formed by the 
Grands Pourceaux, Petits Pourceaux, and Leuriou groups. 

The 5i-fathom line of the bank, in the southward, is paral¬ 
lel to, and distant IJ miles from, the northern islands of Les 
G16nans group. 

To pass between Les G16nans and Les Pourceaux it is channel north 

. - of Lea Gleuana. 

simply^iecessary to steer to the eastward, one third,to five- 
sixths of a mile from the northern islands of the former. 

The light tower over Les Pierres Noires leads clear of the 
Basse Kouge, SW. of Pile aux Moutons. That course may 
be held until Pile aux Moutons approaches Beuodet lights, 
when head up for Concarneau. 

Coming from the southwestward with the flood-tide, Beg- 
Meil semaphore should be keiit open of the W. end of lie 
aux Moutons to avoid being set on the rocks between Les 
Bluiniers and Men ar C’h 3 \ 

Apiiroach from the westward at night, with Penmarc’h At night, 
light astern X. 77^ W., and Penfret light a little off the 
starboard bow. Observe when Concarneau lights come in 
line, after which run about 1 mile more on that same course, 
and steer then N. 28® E. for several miles to clear Les Pour¬ 
ceaux. The ship’s head may afterward be laid more to the 
northward to make the alignment of Concarneau lights. 

Vessels beating through can stand on to 1 cable to the Beating 
northward of Les Pierres Noires, and make five-sixths of a 
mile boards to the northward. 

L’lle aux Moutons is on the SB. border of a bank miles 
long NE. and SW., with a greatest breadth in the northern 
part of miles. The other principal spots are Trevarec 
rock, which never covers, to the southwestward of Moutons 
island, and the Basse Rouge, which forms the SW. extrem¬ 
ity of the plateau. The latter dries 6J feet at low water; 
it is cleared 490 yards in the SW. by the range of Benodet 
lights. 

It is proposed to establish a light on Pen an-Guern rock, Proposed light. 
NE. of Pile aux Moutons. 

25 N C 


380 


CHANNEL S. OF ILE AUX MOUTONS. 


Channel south 
of rile aux Mou- 
tons. 


Directions. 


At night. 


Using sextant. 


Caution. 


B eating 
through. 


Between Tile aux Moutons and Les Pourceanx is a chan¬ 
nel two-thirds of a mile wide in its narrowest part, with 
depths nowhere less than 6J fathoms. It never breaks, and 
is practicable in all weathers. 

In the day-time steer NE. for the E. edge of I’lle aux 
Moutons, passing one-fifth of a mile from it, and keeping on 
one-half of a mile beyond it to clear the Pen-an-Guern and 
other rocks. Then head up for Le Cochon tower offCon- 
carneau. 

At night, after passing to the eastward of the meridian 
of the fixed white light of Loctudy, steer S. 77^ E. with 
Penmai^’h light (revolving) astern and that of Penfre^a half, 
point oif the starboard bow, heading up to NE. when 
the two lights of Beuodet come in line. This course will 
be for Moutons island, and the night would have to be very 
dark not to see it on drawing near j give it a berth of a 
half-mile. 

The use of a sextant, in place of a compass, is less liable 
to error, and will render the passage safer. On approach¬ 
ing the meridian of Loctudy liglit, having clamped the 
vernier of the instrument at 117o 35', observe Penmarc’h 
and Beuzec lights, and try to come on that meridian, with 
them coinciding in the horizon glass. Steering S. 82^ E., 
for Penfret light, will put the ship in that position. The 
coincidence perfected, maintain it, and the vessel will de¬ 
scribe an extended arc, passing safely between ITle aux 
Moutons and Les Pourceaux. On making Concarueau 
lights in line steer for them. 

Penfret light should not be^brought to bear to the south¬ 
ward of E. ^ S., for 2 or 3 miles after sighting it. The limit 
of the range of visibility, on the bearing, S. 82° E., is on 
the Grande Basse of the Roches de Penmarc’h. 

To avoid the Basse Rouge, in beating into this pass, go 
about on the range of Lanriec steeple and the northern 
side of Pile aux Moutons. When past this shoal, to clear 
the next, the rocks to the southward of Trevarec, keep to 
the southward of the alignment of the same steeple on with 
the east end of lie aux Moutons, K 45° E. Boards of two- 
thirds of a mile can be safely made to the SB.; if Le Grand 
Pourceau be showing above water, go about before it comes 
in range with Tregunc steeple, NE. J E. When Pile aux 


CHANNEL N. OF ILE AUX MOUTONS. 


387 


Mon tons bas passed Loctudy light-tower, or Plouneour 
steeple, in the NW., the boards may be extended to the SE. 

The channel north of Pile aiix Moutons is practicable for o/ime aux moi^ 
almost any vessel, so far as depth is concerned, but 
rather narrow. 

Steer east for Moutons island, or Trevarec, and when one- Directions, 
half mile from the former, or one-fourth of a mile from the 
latter, head up to the N. 40^ E., and bring Lanriec light 
over Le Cochon tower iN". 40° E., and keep that alignment. 

Vessels beating through must avoid the Basse Joubert, Beating 

^ ® ’through. 

over which is a depth of only lOJ feet at low water, by 
tacking on the west side of the channel wheu three fourths 
of a mile from Pile aux Moutons, after passing to the north¬ 
ward of its parallel. When Trevarec passes to the west¬ 
ward of fort Cigogne, the boards may be extended to the 
northwestward, but not more than miles from Pile aux 
Moutons, to avoid Treus Vas. When Kergos mansion is 
well on with Benodet point, (to the eastward of the lights,) 
a vessel may stand on to the northward clear of all these 
shoals. 

The only marks that can be used for the channel south passage south 
of Men-Diou are so far away, that it should never be taken 
except in very clear weather. Approach it with Beg-Meil 
guard-house between the semaphore and the upper farm¬ 
house, nearer to the former. This leads south of Rostolou 
and Men-Diou, and north of Kogues. When Kergos chateau 
has passed to the eastward of the lower light of Benodet, 
the latter will have been passed, and the semaphore of Beg- 
Meil on with the farm-house, or Beuzec light-tower one-half 
point open of Beg-Meil, are good ranges. 

A ship can pass to the southward of Kogues by steering 
N. 470 E. lor the semaphore on with the farm ; the former 
can be opened to the northward of the latter, without 
touching PAstrolabe shoal, giving one-half mile of working 
room. 

As soon as Kajac chateau, on the south end of an island 
inside the entrance to Pont PAbbe river, opens to the south¬ 
ward of Ploun6our steeple, the boards may be extended to 
the eastward and northwestward. 

The princiiial landmarks used for entering the harbor of Landmarks 

r -r-. T i. 1 nearCoDcurneau. 

Concarneau, or La Forest bay, are: the steeple ot Beuzec, 


388 


APPROACHING CONCARNEAU. 


Directions. 


Anchorage. 


Oilman eminence, bat tlie spire of which only will appear 
against the sky; that of Ooncarnean, within the inclosure 
of the old tov^ii; Beuzec light, visible from Les Gl^nans; 
the semaphore on Beg-Meil point; Cabellou point and fort, 
and outside of it Le Cochou tower. In the eastward will 
also be seen the semaphore on Xrevignon point. 

To enter Ooncarnean harbor, in clear weather, whether 
coming up to the eastward of Les Glenans, or through one 
of the channels to the northward of them, bring Beuzec 
steeple N. 28° 30' E., which on that bearing is over Beuzec 
and La Oroix lights. Keep this alignment until 650 yards 
inside the red tower of Le Cochon, which will have been 
passed to starboard. 

Coming up between Les Glenans and Basse Jaune, with 
Porzou and Keriolet mansions in line, when abreast Ben- 
fret light, the ship’s head may be laid K. by W. J W. to 
make the alignment of Coiicarneau lights. It would be 
better, however, to steer NNW., to allow for the drift 
toward Le Corven de la Jument, if the flood-tide be mak¬ 
ing- 

The least depth will be found abreast Le Cochon tower, 
201 feet at low water. After passing it look for Le Bois 
mill, which will readily be distinguished to the left of Lau- 
riec light-house. When this mill comes in line with a white, 
stone beacon, in the shape of a truncated triangular pyra¬ 
mid, on the shore, port the helm and keep the alignment, 
K. 560 30 / E., standing on until one-half cable from the 
shore, when head to the northward,* keep at that distance 
to avoid the Basse de la Medee, and pass midwa}"^ between 
the end of the jetty and the opposite shore. This last part 
of the channel can be followed by keeping Coucarneau 
steeple open to the eastward of the salient angle of the for¬ 
tifications. 

The least depth on these courses is 13 feet at low water. 

Small vessels run in and ground in the port above the 
jetty; but vessels of 12 or 13 feet draught can anchor to 
the eastward of a rocky plateau NE. from the jetty, with 
Beuzec light over the angle of the fortifications. Come-to 

This change in the course should be effected before the beacon of 
Cl^o comes on with the aquarium iu the northwestward, to avoid the 
rocks on Lanriec coast. 



DIRECTIONS. 


389 


on this range anywhere from the alignment of the jetty-head 
masking the reservmir to quite near the fortress. 

This anchorage has the disadvantage of 2T-knot currents 
during the ebb. South winds are also apt to start vessels 
dragging. 

Farther up is a 13 to 16 foot hole, to reach which steer 
for a house, the Maison du Pont, to the right of and below 
Beuzec light, in midstream until beyond the fortress, and 
come-to about 85 yards from the walls of the old city. 

When abreast the middle tower of the fortifications, let 
the ship yaw to starboard somewhat to avoid a reef, and 
return to the range given. 

There being but little room to swing at low water, a kedge 
should be carried out astern to keep the ship’s head to the 
northward. 

In foggy weather steer with Penfret light astern S. J 
W., as long as it can possibly be seen. This course leads 
not very far from Le Corven. Le Gochon tower should then 
be looked out for and passed 85 yards to starboard. If be¬ 
calmed, the anchor may be let go 650 yards to the northward 
of the tower, in 4T fathoms, over mud. 

At night keep the alignment of Beuzec and La Croix 
lights, 28^ 30' E., until Lanriec light* bears N. 68° E., 
when steer for the latter until l»alf a cable from shore. 

Be the night clear or dark, it would be best to anchor 
until daylight, a little to the westward of the alignment of 
the two white lights, with the red one bearing IS". 65^ E. The 
bottom here is mud and sand at 6 fathoms, and a vessel 
could rideout gales of wind from anywhere except between 
SSE. and SW.; a heavy sea is raised by winds from that 
quarter. 

Among the first dangers to be avoided in beating is the 
Chaussee de Beg-Meil, which extends 1 mile to the southeast¬ 
ward of that point, and dries 3 feet in some places, break¬ 
ing throughout in rough weather. A sufficient berth will 
be given it by not going to the westward of Le Cochon 
tower midway between Pofzou Manor and Lanriec light, or 
Concarneau steeple over the low rock of Men Cren. A more 

* This light will he first made hearing N. 63° E., and the ship’s head 
might he laid for it then; hut this leads very close to Men Fall rocks. 
The light disappears ou approaching the coast. 


Lower anchor¬ 
age. 


Caation. 


In foggy 
weather. 


At night. 


Beating in. 



390 


SnOALS—ROADS—TOWN. 


Karek-Allidec. 


Basse de Gui- 
noec. 


Linnen de Ca- 
bellou. 


Corven de la 
Jumeirt.. 


Le Cochon 
passage. 


(;!on earn eau 
roads. 


Town. 


distiDct range at high water than either of these is Beiizec 
light-tower over the scarp of the block-house. When La 
Forest steeple comes over the point of cape Cos, at the head 
of the bay, the Chanssee is passed, and the boards may be 
extended to the northward. 

There is a depth of 6 fathoms over Karek-Allidec, which 
never breaks, and which need not be avoided except in an¬ 
choring, the bottom being rocky. It is limited in the SE. 
by the range of the two white lights, and in the NW. by 
Beuzec steeple over Men Oren. 

The Basse de Guinoec, the head of which is only a few 
square yards in extent, is covered by only 14J feet; the bot¬ 
tom in the vicinity is rocky. The SE. limit of the plateau 
is given by Men Oren outside the eastern extremity of Oon- 
carneau battery; the NW., by Men-Mark, (close inshore 
south of the redoubt,) under Beuzec steeple. 

The Linuen de Cabellou is a rocky shelf of small extent, 
covered by 21 feet of water. It rarely breaks. Beuzec 
steeple on with the wall surrounding the old town leads 
clear to the westward. 

Beuzec steeple on with the angle of Concarneau fortress, 
(in the inner harbor,) leads clear to the westward of Le Cor¬ 
ven de la Jument. 

The channel abreast of Le Cochon is too narrow to admit 
of vessels of any size beating, being only 130 yards wide 
between two rocks covered by 3 and 5 feet respectively. 

A vessel can anchor off Concarneau, 300 yards to the east¬ 
ward of Men Cren, in 6 fathoms, or anywhere on the range 
of the white beacon and Le Bois mill. The depths vary 
from 13 to 19 L feet to within 130 yards of the. shore. 

The town of Concarneau stands on the island inside the 


harbor, and is surrounded by thick stone walls, with pro¬ 
jecting parapet and towers at regular distances. The sub¬ 
urbs are more extensive than the town, and are better built. 
The island is 400 yards long and 120 broad. Fishing is the 

Trade. chicf occupatioii. The exports of the i>lace are cider, tim¬ 
ber, grain, and salt fish; the imports, salt, wine, brandy, 
Norway deal, and empty casks. The trade is principally 
coastwise. 

Population. The population is about 3,000. 


LA FOREST AND BENODET BAA'S. 


391 


To reach the anchorage in La Forest bay, having doubled 
the extremity of the rocks off Beg-Meil as directed above, 
steer for cape Cos at tlie head of the bay, open to the west¬ 
ward of La Forest steeple. About one-half mile on this 
course will put the vessel on the cross-bearing of Le Bois 
mill on with Concarueau point, near the light-tower, when 
the anchor may be let go in to G fathoms water, mud Anchorage, 
bottom. 

Another range for determining the berth is Le Cochon 
tower, open to the southward of Cabellou point. 

From Beg-Meil point the coast runs 2 ^ miles W. by S. to Poin te de 

.. , . , , . Mousteilin. 

the Fointe de Mousterlin, making a slight inward curve 
near the latter. It is fringed with rocks, a continuation to 
the westward of the Chauss6e de Beg-Meil. The southern¬ 
most are tlie Eoches de Mousterlin, which lie 1| miles S. of 
that point. 

West 1)3' S., 5 miles from Mousterlin point, is the mouth ^ Ause de Beno- 
of the river Pont PAbbe, and between the two PAiise de 
Benodet extends miles to the northward, receiving at its 
head the waters of the Quimper river. The shores of this bay 
are low, except near the mouth of the river, being composed 
of sand-downs. Back of these downs is higher land, in¬ 
cluding several hills that may be used in taking bearings 
for position. The bay affords a good lee from winds between 
SVV. and NE., through N.; but at the entrance shoals make 
the navigation very intricate. 

Tlie tidal currents act in PAnse de Benodet in the same TWai currents, 
manner as everywhere in the viciiiit 3 ', turning with the sun, 
or to the right. 

At the entrance in the southward it is much the same. 

At half-Good the set is N. or KE., as the vessel is more or 
less to the eastward. The ebb runs SVV. The only slack 
water is in the offing, one-half hour after high water. At 
low water the current runs S., without any diminution in 
strength. In general, it may be stated that the tide enters 
the bay from the southeastward and goes out along the W. 
coast. This is speciall 3 ' the case with the wind off the land, 
when there is frequently a 3 knot current off Euizan. The 
sea is quite bad while a weather-tide is running. 

The time of high water in the bay is the same as at Port Tides. 

Louis, and the rise about IJ feet greater. 

The most conspicuous landmarks are, beginning in the Landmarks. 


392 


ODET AND LOCTUDY LIGHTS. 


W.: Plouiieour steeple, a square tower on a lieigbt 7 miles in¬ 
land from the mouth of Pout PAbbe river • Loetudy steeple, 
with a tolerably lofty spire, on the low ground to the south¬ 
ward of the river-entrance ; the Chateau de Kajac, on the S. 
end of Chevalier island, inside the entrance; the steeple of 
Combrit, of which only the spire is visible over the sur¬ 
rounding woods, which latter area good mark in themselves; 
the semaphore on Combrit point, the W. side of the entrance 
to Qaimper river; and Kergos chateau, almost hidden in 
the trees, to the northward of the semaphore. 

odet liffiits: ^oq point, the eastern side of the entrance to 

]on°s.^ 4 o river, is a fixed red^ catoptric, fourth-order light, 

li^hn’ elovated. 33 feet above sea-level, exhibited from a circular 

white tower 3G feet high. 

North 14° W. from it is a fixed tchite^ dioptric, fourth- 
order light, 5G feet above sea-level, exhibited from a similar 
tower 30 feet high. 

Both lights are visible 9 miles; the former illuminates 
an arc of only on each side of the range of the two, 
which leads up the channel. 

Loetudy light: Oil the south Side of the entrance to Pont PAbbe river is 

I at 47° 49' 53" 

long. 4° 09' a circular stone tower, painted white, 31 feet high, showing 
•d fixed white^ dioptric, fourth-order light, 35 feet above sea- 
level, visible 10 miles. 

Eastern pas- To enter Beiiodet bav from the eastward, one range is 

sage. •' ' , 

Ploun6our steeple barely open to the northward of Najac 
chateau. This range leads over the plateau of Pile aux 
Moiitons, with depths of 3J fathoms only; it would be bet¬ 
ter to work up to miles north of that island, and stand 
to the westward to make the alignment, with nothing less 
than G fathoms. As Benodet lights approach one another, 
liort the helm and steer for them, remaining a little to the 
eastward of their alignment (the upper light to the right of 
the lower) to clear a rocky patch, which is covered by 39 feet 
of water, but on which the sea may be heavier. 

Anciiorage. The bcst aiicliorage for large vessels is on the last range, 
with the. cross-bearing of Loctiuly steeple to the northward 
of the light; the bottom is sand and shells, at GJ fathoms, 
and the shelter excellent from winds between SW. and 
ENE. through north. 



ENTERING BENODET BAY. 


393 


To enter from the eastward at night, bring Loctiul}’’ light night, 
to bear N. 71^ W., and steer for it, passing midway between 
Moiisterliu and Les Moiitons rocks. A vessel can even 
beat in at night, making tacks to open the light 5^ on either 
side of the given bearing. Keep the alignment of Benodet 
lights, when made, and anchor when the lead shows the de¬ 
sired depth. 

This eastern passage is the only safe one at night. 

The limits of the beating-room are, in the southward, Beatiagin. 
Najac mansion open to the southward of Ploun^onr steeple, 
and in the northward, the flag-staff on Garo island (inside 
the mouth of Pont FAbbe river) kept open to the south¬ 
ward of Tudy island, the north shore of the mouth of the 
river. The former range clears File aux Moutons, Les 
Poulains, Men-Diou, and Cluyou rocks, and the latter the 
point of the Roches de Mousteiiin. 

The largest vessels can take the Chenal du Centre at low Middle chan- 
water, passing the Basse du Chenal to port, and Malvic to“^^' 
starboard. Kergos chateau, over Benodet semaphore, (on 
Combrit point,) leads up a little to the westward of mid¬ 
channel, between the two, and is a good range to use if 
coming in on the port tack. The two shoals will be cleared 
by keeping between the bearings of the arm of the sema¬ 
phore on with the abrupt edge of the woods, on one hand, 
and Kergos chateau over the guard-house on the point, on 
the other. 

To reach the anchorage, come up from the southward with 
Benodet semaphore in the middle of Kergos woods, or touch¬ 
ing the left side of the chateau, and when Plouneour stee¬ 
ple comes in range with the steeple on Tudy island, port the 
helm 3 or 4 points and make the alignment of Benodet light- 
towers. 

There is also a passage east of Malvic shoal, on the range Pass east of 
of Kergos mansion over Combrit point, but the channel is' 
narrower than the preceding, and Combrit point is not well 
defined against the west bank of the river. 

To the westward of the Basse du Chenal is the narrow passe du Cos 
jiass of Cosquer, which is considerably used by coasters. 

Cosquer chateau, K. 0^ 30' W., seen through the middle of 
the lane, leads through, passing ov'er a 12J-foot patch to the 
south westward of the Basse du Chenal. Small vessels beat- 


394 


ENTERING BENODET BAY. 


ing lip Oil this range need only keep one of the flag-staves in 
sight through the avenue, after passing Roc’h Helou. Shortly 
after Ploun^our steeple passes to the northward of that of 
Tudy island, port the helm and make the range of Benodet 
lights, unless bound for Pont I’Abbe river, in which case 
keep on the first course until the Perdrix beacon comes in 
line with the Maison Duriimain, N. 70° W. 
bay"trora^8oith^ Oomiiig fioiu the westward at night, and intending to an- 
ward at night, ehor ill Benodet bay, steer S. 87° E. for Penfret light as soon 
as it is made, which will be some time after passing that of 
Penmarc’h. When Loctudy light bears north, steer for the 
white light of Benodet, N. 12^ E., being careful to go noth¬ 
ing to starboard of that course, as it passes only 870 yards 
from Rocfli H^lou. It would be well to head up for Loc¬ 
tudy light when that of Penmarc’h bears W. f N. or W. by 
N. for miles, heading ofl:' again to the northeastward to 
bring Benodet light on the bearing N. 12° E. 

The course then lies between Faybleau and Juin shoals, 
covered by only 7J feet, and unless the sea be so smooth as 
not to disturb the compasses and to admit of close steering, 
it would be advisable to anchor to the southward of them 
until daylight. 

Another channel can be taken; coming from the west¬ 
ward on the same course, when Loctudy light bears north, 
head up to N. 50° E., and bring Benodet lights nearly in 
line, and steer for them with the red one a little open to the 
eastward of the white. This has the advantage of giving a 
range to steer on independently of the compasses; on the 
other hand the channel is very narrow; the lights in line 
lead over Men-Diou, and if open too much, over Basse Tudy. 
The lower {red) light should just be clear, to the right, of 
the perpendicular through the ichite one. 

It would be much safer to stand to the northeastward 
through the pass south of Pile aux Moutous, and take the 
eastern entrance to the bay. 

a sex- The sextaut may be used with advantage in preference to 
the compass. Ran to the eastward for Penfret light as di¬ 
rected above, and steer NE. after passing the meridian of 
Loctudy light. Clamp the vernier at 128o 35', and observe 
Penfret light and the red light of Benodet. When they are 
both seen in the horizon glass starboard the helm, and when 



BEATING INTO BENODET BAY. 


395 


they coincide head to the northward and westward, keeping 
on the arc subtended by that angle. The ship will pass be¬ 
tween the Basse du Chenal and Basse Malvic, and with the 
index error known and allowed for in setting the vernier, it 
is the safest course to follow. When Loctudy light bears 
NW. by W., the ship’s head may be laid to the north-north¬ 
eastward, to make the range of Benodet lights. 

There is no one channel wide enough for a large vessel to Beating up 
beat up from the southward; it can only be done, in case of waM. ® 
having no pilot, by the captain familiarizing himself with 
all rocks or marks on shore, so as to be able quickly to rec¬ 
ognize the following ranges, and work his way up among 
the many shoals. Making a long board to the northeast¬ 
ward through one of the channels on either side of Les 
Pourceaux would be much safer, and would entail much less 
work on the crew in handling the ship. 

The first of the shoals is the Basse de Montfort, which is Banse de Mont- 
of small extent and rarely breaks. The head is given byfeS.’ 

Le Run, one of the northern rocks of Les Glenans, touching 
the west side of Cigogne fort, and the eastern abrupt edge 
of Kergos woods over Combrit point. The bottom in the 
vicinity is rocky. 

The eastern limit of the working-room is the Basse Rouge. Basse Kouge. 
The range of Benodet lights pas.ses well clear to the west¬ 
ward of it, but as they will not always be visible at so great 
a distance, (7 miles,) the best check is not to approach I’lle 
aux Moutons nearer than If miles in the SW. 

Rostolou shoal is one-third mile long WXW. and Rostoiou. 
ESE., and has 3 heads, at depths of 81, 2i, and 9J feet, re¬ 
spectively, all of which are cleared in the southward by 
going about before Enizan rock comes in range with Esco- 
uil semaphore beyond. Kergos chateau over the semaphore 
of Benodet (nearly due north) leads clear to the eastward 
of them and of Roc’h Helou. 

There is a narrow passage between these two shoals, both Passage, 
of which break, with Esconil semaphore to the northward 
of Grand Enizan rock, between it and Petit Enizan. 

The Roc’h HMou has 2 heads, at depths of 1 and 6 feet. RoCh Heiou. 
A vessel is north of them when Enizan rock comes on with 
Saint-Jacques de Guilviuec point, nearly due west. 


396 


SHOALS—QUIMPEE RIYER. 


Basse Kosnes; 
dept h, 6^ feet. 


Basse Malvic; 
depth, 2 feet. 

Tudy, Men 
Diou, 'a n d Clu 
you shoals. 


Quimper rh^er. 


The Basse Kogaes is a dangerous spot, unless the weather 
be clear enough to see tlie distant landmarks. It is cleared 
in the southeastward by keeping Beuzec light-tower 'NE. f 
E., open one-fourth point south of Beg-Meil point. To pass 
north of it, heading to the northwestward, between it and 
Basse Tudy, steer N. 49° 30' W. for Loctudy light on with 
Plouneour steeple: and to pass south of it keep the latter 
over Loctudy mill. 

After passing the Basse Kogues it would be well not to 
pass to the westward of Kergos chateau over Benodet sema¬ 
phore, as the shoals beyond do not always show, and there 
are no good ranges for avoiding them. With a IsE. wind 
a long stretch can be made to the northvvestward between 
Eaybleau and Juin shoals, with Loctudy light N. 59° W. 
over Men-Bret rock. 

The Basse Malvic, which is only a few square yards in 
extent, is steep-to, depths of 6 fathoms being found close-to. 

The three shoals of Tudy, Men-Diou, and Clnyou are 
rather too close to each other for vessels to pass between 
them. The first two uncover, but the latter is 11 feet under 
low-water level. The group is cleared in the westward by 
keeping Kergos chateau open to the westward of the old 
mill inland of Benodet lights; in the north by keeping Loc¬ 
tudy light slightly open to the southward of the northern¬ 
most mill of Loctudy, or Kajac chateau to the southward of 
Plouneour steeple. 

A vessel can pass between this group and Malvic shoal 
with Beuzec light-tower just open to the northward of Beg- 
Meil semaphore. 

The Q aim per or Odet river falls into Benodet bay be¬ 
tween Oombrit and Benodet points. The mouth of the 
river is about 2,150 yards wide between these two points, 
but this is greatly reduced by rocky shelves that project on 
each side, as also by Le Four rock, halfway across, marked 
by a beacon. A little over one-half mile up stream, abreast 
Le Coq point, which is distinguishable by a battery and the 
lower light-tower, the width is only 220 yards. This is 
sometimes called the mouth of the river. 


The stream is divided into two parts, quite distinct. The 
l>art below L iuros is narrow and bordered by steep granitic 



QUniPER RIVER. 


397 


hills. The channel is in mkl-stream, and there are several 
good anchorages in 10^ to liG feet of water over mud. 

Above Linros there is no anchorage without grounding 
at every tide. 

On Combrit point is a battery, near which is also a signal- 
station, with electric telegraph. 

Tlie bar of the Quimper has 13.J feet on it at low water. 
The increase of that depth by the rise of the tide may be 
approximately found by observing the heights above water 
of various rocks at the entrance. When La Kousse (or Er 
Kouzes) rock, which is 400 yards SE. from Combrit point 
and is marked by a black beacon, is entirely covered, 
feet are to be added to the depth, and when Le Four is 
covered. 

It is high water, full and change, at the mouth of the 
Quimper river at 3^ 11“. Mean springs rise 11 feet. Both the 
height and time of any high water can be found by adding 
1^ feet to the lieight at Port Louis, and 3 minutes to the 
time, both of which are found in the Annuaire des Maries. 

At Quimper, 11 miles up the river, the retardation is 47 
minutes in the propagation of the tide. 

Abreast of LeCoq point, the tidal currents attain a speed 
of 4^ knots, and it is slack-water ebb one-half hour after 
low water. At the bend north of Sainte-Barbe the strength 
is 4 knots 5 at the entrance to Lanros it is 3J knots after 2 
hours’ rise. 

Once in the bay, a vessel requiring not more than 13| feet 
depth, can approach the Quimper riv^er by making the align¬ 
ment of the lights, N. 14^ 15' W., and keeping it until about 
275 yards from the lower one. Then the course is changed 
to N. 440 W., passing about 55 yards from Toulgoet point 
and the coast to the northward of the tower on it, anchor¬ 
ing in 7 fathoms water over sand and mud, when Saint- 
Thomas comes in line with the end of the jetty. 

A greater depth can be kept off the entrance to the river 
by coming to the westward of the range of the lights to 
avoid the Banc de Benodet, when Loctudy steeple comes 
over the mayors residence, and steering for La Rousse bea¬ 
con 1 point to the eastward of the lower light. 

The mayors residence may not be recognized by a captain 
coming here for the first time 5 the ship’s head may be laid 


Combrit point. 

River bar. 


Tides. 


Tidal currents. 


Directions. 


Anchorage. 


398 


BEATING UP—QUIMPER. 


Beating np. 


Le Four. 


Le Coq. 


BenodetJ 

Quimper. 


for La Eoiisse beacon, to the eastward of the lower light, as 
soon as it is made. 

There has recently been constructed upon Le Taro, a rock 
on the eastern border of deep water in PAnse de Benodet, 
a stone tower-beacon 7 feet above high-water springs; it is 
red above high-water mark, with a white band bearing the 
name of the rock. It gives an excellent range for the limit 
of boards to the eastward ; a vessel should be put about 
when it comes in line with the upper light-tower of Beno¬ 
det. After passing it the best range to use in the eastward 
is Saint-Thomas steeple on with the lower light. Vessels 
not drawing more than 12 or 13 feet can continue to use it 
(at low water) until abreast Les Verres rocks, w^hich are 
marked by a beacon, and may be approached quite boldl 3 \ 
In the westward a vessel can keep on a few hundred yards 
to the westward of Kergos Chateau over the signal-station 
on Ooinbrit point, until up to Li Rou-sse beacou. The ship 
may go in stays close under the latter. 

Le Four rock is of no very great extent, but it should 
not be api)roached nearer than 110 yards in the southward 
or 55 yards on any other side. Above it put the ship about 
before the upper light-tower comes in line with a house-bea¬ 
con on the SB. part of Le Coq point. 

Le Coq rock is 70 yards from the lower light, and is a 
dangerous spot during the flood-tide, the current setting 
right on it. Its position is well marked by the eddies in its 
vicinity. 

Instead of skirting the western bank of the river to the 
anchorage off Saint-Thomas, the east bank may be followed 
by keeping Benodet point 4^ open of Le Coq point. 

The town of Benodet, which is small and of no impor¬ 
tance, is a little less than a mile within the entrance. 

The first town in point of importance on the river is 
Quimper, some 10 miles above Benodet, following the wind¬ 
ings of the river. It is the capital of the department of 
Finistere, and is the episcopal see. It is among the oldest 
towns in Brittany, and has a population of about 12,000, 
mostly employed in fishing, ship building, and the manu¬ 
facture of ordinary earthenware, leather, and beer. The 
imports comprise coal, timber, salt, and resin ; the exports. 


PONT L’ABBE BIVER. 


399 


grain, pilcliar.ls, and wine-barrels, of wbicli latter there is 
a large rnanufactnre. 

The greatest draught that can reach it at low water is 9 
feet. 

There is good anchorage, well sheltered from westerly Anchorages, 
winds, in 27| feet of water, over sand and mud, below Le 
Coq point, on the following cross-bearings : the upper light- ' 
tower over the house-beacon on Le Coq point, and Loctudy 
light on with Oombrit point. 

The other anchorages in the river are off the inlets of 
Rosaves, Kerandren, and Kerotret, in 16i to 26 feet of 
water, mud bottorn. 

Off PAnse de Kergos, one-third of a mile above Benodet, 
ships foul their hawse at every tide; at high water the 
swell is felt from outside. 

The Pont PAbb6 river discharges itself into Benodet bay, Pont i’Abb6 

river. 

2^ miles southwestward from the mouth of the Quimper. 

On the bar is a depth of only 3i feet at low water, increased 
to 13 to 20 feet inside. 

It is high water 8 minutes after the time at Port Louis, Tides, 
and the rise is 1|^ feet greater. The foot of the black bea¬ 
con on Karek Sos, off the light, being awash, shows there 
is a depth of 13 t feet over the bar. 

Whether coming from the southward or from the east- Directions, 
ward, make the alignment of the Perdrix beacon, (black, 
on the north side of the entrance,) and the Maison Duru- 
main N. 70*^ W. This leads over the bar; when Loctudy 
steeple comes behind the southernmost of two mills, steer 
K. 87° W. for the Loubriere house, which is very distinct, 
open of Loctudy guard house point. This course takes 
through the anchorage. 

The entrance is not practicable of a dark night. In clear At night, 
weather, having entered Benodet bay, bring Loctudy liirht 
to bear N. 60^ \V., and steer with it 1 point off the port 
bow, to clear Karek Sos, which should be siglited. Then 
keep pretty close to the southern shore and anchor by the 
lead. 

Coming from the head of Benodet bay, the ship should caution, 
not steer for Loctudy light to the southward of S. 70 W., 
for fear of touching Men Audierne rock. 


400 


Pont I’Abb^. 

Loctudy. 

Coast. 

% 


Karek Greiz. 


Basse Devel. 

Caution. 


Enizan rock. 

Port de I’Esco- 
nil. 


Semaphore. 

Directions. 


COAST—SHOALS—ESCONIL. 

The town of Pont I’Abbe is 3i miles above the bar; the 
channel to it is narrow, tortuous, and shallow. 

Small vessels come quite frequently to Loctudy to load 
potatoes and grain. At the end of the jetty is a depth of 
3J fathoms at low water. 

From the mouth of Pont I’Abbd river the coast runs in a 
general direction of SW. by S. 21 miles, when it trends to 
the westward for 1\ miles, terminating in Penmarc’h point. 
From the former stretch project several rocky-ledges, with 
sboals outside them. All these are cleared by the upper 
light of Benodet over Oombrit point semaphore. The foul 
ground oif the latter stretch extends 2 miles to the south¬ 
ward of the general line of the coast. 

Karek Greiz is a dangerous rock from its position, 1§ 
miles from the nearest point of land, and from having but 
18| feet of water over it. Its bearings are Loctudy light K. 
by E. 1 E., and that of Penmarc’h N. 77® W. 

The Basse Devel, KW. 800 yards from Karek Gr6iz, 
dries 2 feet at low water. 

Except in clear, smooth weather, it would not be advisable 
to pass inshore of Karek Greiz. There would be nothing 
saved by so doing, except in case of passing to the west¬ 
ward of Bostolou, bound for Benodet bay. It is north of 
the coarse round Penmarc’h rocks to the passes about I’lle 
aux Moutons. 

The bottom in the vicinity is rocky. 

Enizan rock, half a mile off shore, is large and well de¬ 
fined, and has deep water close alongside, but 450 yards S. 
by W. from it is a 13-foot patch. 

The Port de I’Esconil, just to the westward o^ the bend 
in the coast from SW. by S. to W., affords shelter to mod¬ 
erate-sized vessels from northerly wdnds. Coasters some¬ 
times enter it in the summer, but rarely in the winter, as 
the S VV. and W. winds raise a heavy sea. 

To the westward of the entrance is a semaphore. 

To approach the port from the SE., steer for Enizan on 
any course between W. by N. and KW., pass pretty close 
to the southward of the latter, and steer up K. 32^ W. on 
the alignment of Esconil mill and a prominent rock inside, 
coming-to on that range in 23 feet of water, with Goudoul 


GUILVINEC PORT—LIGHTS. 


401 


rock, S. of the semaphore, masking the point to the west¬ 
ward. 

To reach it from the southward and westward, steer N. 
for Reissant, which never covers, and then for Enizan rock 
until Esconil mill is over the rock inside. 

At miles westward from Port de I'Esconil is the Port Port de Guiivi- 
de Guilvinec, which dries at low water. Between the places 
several ledges project separated by little sandy beaches. 

Over 300 fishing-boats come there for shelter in the winter, 
grounding inside. 

Two lights have been established leading into Guilfinec Guilvinec 
or Guilvinec port. One, on the E. side of the entrance, 
exhibited from a window in a white stone house, 13 feet (North light.) 
high, is fixed red, dioptric, fourth-order light, 19 feet above 
sea-level, visible 6 miles. NE. j E., 620 yards from it, is a 
square stone tower, 49 feet high, painted white, showing a 
fixed red, catoptric light, 50 feet above sea-level, visible 9 miles 
in the axis of the channel, but only 6 miles lO^ each side 
of it. The lower light is visible through an angle of 180°, 
beginning at La Charette shoal j the upper only 14^ each 
side of the line of direction. 

The plateau ofi this portion of the coast is steep-to, and shoais. 
the southernmost heads, Gromen, Les Putains, and Les 
Fourches, can be approached very close. The former is 
cleared by keeping Enizan open to the eastward of Reissant 
rock. Les Putains are Ifi miles S. of the coast 1 mile E. 
of Port Guilvinec 5 they uncover at low water, but the 
depths immediately outside of them are to 10 fathoms. 

Les Fourches, in the SW. extremity of the plateau, remain 
awash at the highest springs. They are cleared in the SW. 
by the range of Notre Dame de la Joie steeple (one-half 
mile N. of Penmarc’h light) over the large rock of Locarec. 

To the northwestward of Les Fourches, off Port Guilvinec, 
is a sheet of deep water, clear of dangers in itself, but sep¬ 
arated from the open sea by several shoals, the Grand Basse, 

Basse Tener, and the Chiens de Mer or Basse Spinec. These 
are included in the Roches de Penmarc%. To the north¬ 
westward of them are two more shoals, the Basse Neuve or 
Ndves, and the Basse Salliou, which are only separated by 
a narrow channel from the rocks on the plateau to the south- 
26 N C 


402 


DIRECTIONS. 


Channels. 


Directions. 


West passage. 


At night. 

A lee. 


Life-boat. 


eastward of Penmarc’h point, and over which are depths of 
24J and 32 feet, respectively. 

There are several channels among these latter rocks, but 
none practicable for any but small vessels, and only by 
them when under the charge of a master well acquainted 
with the ground. 

In the sheet of clear water off Port Guilvinec the depths 
are6^ to 10 fathoms, but the bottom is rock, so the anchorage 
would not be good. None but fishing-boats and smaft 
coasters can enter the port. 

To approach this port by the pass west of Les Fourches, 
bring Men-Meur rock to bear N. t W., under the western 
edge of Kerlane woods. This rock is easily recognized off 
the point to the westward of Guilvinec, and the range can 
also be distinguished by observing that the rock will be 
two-thirds way from Saint-Tromeur steeple to Poulguen 
mill. Keep the alignment until Du mill comes in range 
with the white gable of the magasin^ on the SE. shore of 
the port, or until the light-tower and light house are in line. 

To come in to the westward of Basse Neuve, make and keep 
the alignment of Du mill (black) and the white gable men¬ 
tioned above. When about 1 mile inside of Basse Neuve, 
or when Locarec rock, in the westward, comes on with 
Kerity steeple, open the mill to the eastward of the white 
gable, to avoid the Basse des Herbes, which is exactly on 
the range, and is covered by only It feet at low water. 

Make and keep the alignment of the lights at night, 
opening them to avoid the Basse des Herbes. 

A vessel caught in a SW. gale and unable to weather Les 
Gl^nans or Peuraarc’h point, can find a tolerable lee under 
Les Etoes. Make the alignment leading into the Port de 
Guilvinec, and steer on it NE. i E., until Locarec rock 
comes under the ruined church of Kerity, when run north 
41 cables, round-to under Baraguen-Bras, and anchor in 27f 
feet at low water, 2 cables northward of it. The force of 
the sea is greatly broken by Les Etocs, and the bottom, 
which is rocky near Baraguen-Bras, changes to sand at 2 
cables to the northward. With good ground-tackle, and by 
striking the light spars, a ship could ride out a heavy gale. 

The K6rity life-boat will always be on hand to render all 
possible assistance. 


ROCHES DE PENMARC’H. 

If thick weatlier prevent the landmarks being seen, run 
in one-half cable to the southeastward of F6rigou-Bras and 
F6rigou-Bian, which are li cables southeastward from Men- 
Haro, which never covers. Then steer to double Baraguen- 
Bras, 5 cables ilNE. from the latter. 

The SW. limit of the Koches de Peumarc’h runs to the 
west-northwestward approaching the coast, from which, 
SW. of Penmarc’h point, it is distant only 9 cables. The 
southwesternmost of these rocks are the Basses Boutine, La 
Jument or Ar Gasek, and Les Etocs. They are all cleared 
by keeping Pile Nona, two-thirds of a mile WSW. from Pen¬ 
marc’h light, bearing to the northward of N. 40^ W. Les 
Etocs open one-half point (at least) to the northward of 
Nona islet leads clear of all others in the SE. Tr^vignon 
point, if the weather be clear enough to see it, in range with 
Pile aux Moil to ns, E. J N., leads clear to the southward. 

Coming from the westward at night, pass at least 
miles south of Peumarc’h light, steering nothing to the east¬ 
ward of SE. by E. from that until Penfret light is sighted, 
which latter may be steered for, E. i S. 


403 


Thick weather. 


Roches de Pen- 
marc’h. 


At night. 


CHAPTER XI. 


PENMAEC’H POINT TO BREST INCLUSIVE. 

Variation in 1876.—Penmarc’h point, 20^^ 00' W.; Saiut-Matthieu point, 
20° 10' W.; He de Sein, 20° 10' W. 

P e n^m a r c ’ h Penmarc’h point is a low headland, presenting a convex 
point. shore of considerable extent, to which the name of point 

can hardly be applied except that the trend of the coast 
changes from W. to N. On it is a township, besides sev¬ 
eral churches. 

Between the town of Penmarc’h and the sea is a low, 
sandy plain, which would have been worn away long ago 
but for the rocks breaking the seas from the NW. and S. 
The houses of Kerity are threatened with destruction before 
long unless a wall be built to protect that town from the 
encroachment of the southerly sea. 

Shoals. Off the W. coast of Penmarc’h point are a number of 

rocks, the outermost of which, Men-Hir, miles W. ^ S. 
from the light, always shows above water. Heading N. or 
S., pass at least one-third of a mile outside it to clear the 
Basse Neves, a 12-foot patch 1,170 yards in the NNW. 
Punning to the SE. it may be passed at 300 yards without 
fear of touching anything else. The most conspicuous rock 
in the group is Nona islet, about 100 yards in extent, 1,200 
yards W8W. from the light. Off Taliferne, the NW. ex¬ 
tremity of the point, the foul ground extends only 2 cables 
out. 

P e n m a r c ’ li Penmarc’h light-tower stands on the little cape of Saint- 
47^53''N.t long. Pierre, projecting to the west-southwestward 1 cable from 
4° Penmarc’h point j it is 131 feet high, cylindrical in shape, with 

an enlarged base, and a balcony round the top, which ren¬ 
ders it more distinctly visible during the day. The light 
exhibited is white^ revolving every 30 seconds^ elevated 135 
feet above sea-level, visible 22 miles. The illuminating ap¬ 
paratus is dioptric, of the first order. The eclipses are 


APPROACHING PENMARC'H POINT. 


405 


not total within 12 miles. To the westward of the tower 
is a semaphore, and between the two stands the chapel of 
Saint-Pierre. 

The light is often called Saint-Pierre light. 

Penmarc’h point is not a desirable landfall to make, be¬ 
ing so low. An error in latitude might put a vessel in Au- 
dierne bay before sighting land, from which in case of W. 
or SW. winds the only way to work out would be through 
the Eaz de Seiu, which is not easy with weather as thick 
as generally prevails with winds from that quarter. With 
S. winds there would be similar objections. With W. winds 
a vessel might run by to the southward of the point, in a 
squall, if not on it, and bring up on Les Gl^uans. 

With N. or NW. winds, if bound for Lorient or Loctudy, 
it might be selected. 

Experienced seamen on the coast are impressed with the 
fact that a ship should never be caught in Audierne bay 
with W. or WNW. winds, if possible to prevent it; should 
the wind freshen to a gale, there would almost be a cer¬ 
tainty of being lost, as the current would be setting with it 
on the coast. If embayed, however, try to make the coast 
to the westward of Audierne, as there the current sets out 
along the shore during nine hours out of twelve. If in the 
SE. part of the bay, and unable to claw off or weather 
Penmarc’h, select Poulbrien, Wibbine,or La Torche bays to 
beach the vessel, having a very good chance there of saving 
all hands. 

It is evident from the foregoing facts that unless per¬ 
fectly sure of being south of Audierne bay, a captain ap¬ 
proaching the coast with westerly winds should do so with 
great caution, and heave the lead frequently, though it in¬ 
volve bringing by and taking in stun’-sails; the laud might 
not be sighted until too late. 

The soundings are an invaluable assistant to the naviga¬ 
tor approaching Peumarc’h with westerly winds and thick 
weather; one special fact should be borne in mind, the 
knowledge of it greatly decreasing the danger of running 
into Audierne bay. If mud bottom be found at a greater 
depth than 44 fathoms, (low water,) the vessel is south of 
the parallel of Penmarc’h; if 38 fathoms be reached with- 


Approaching. 


Soundings. 


406 


LANDFALL. 


out finding mud, she is north of it, and should be brought 
by the wind immediately. 

On that parallel (47° 47' N.) gravel and broken shells will 
be brought uj) from 110 fathoms at 125 miles from the point, 
82 fathoms at 69 miles, and 55 fathoms at 30 miles. It is 
about here that fixed fiash white light of the He de 
Sein will be raised in the NE., after which the fixed white 
light of the Bee du Raz, and, finally, in the east, Penmarc^h 
light will be sighted. If at all to the northward, the white 
light of Audierne may also be seen in the N. by B. i E., but 
it will gradually become feebler, and will soon disappear. 

Landfall From a vessel 5 miles northwestward from Penmarc’h 

point, there will be seen, far away in the SSE., Les Etocs, 
and nearer, in the same direction, Houa islet j then, suc¬ 
cessively, to the left, Peumarc’h light-tower, with Saint- 
Pierre chapel and semaphore to the right of it; K 6 rit 3 ^ 
mill, nearly on with the ruined church, called Saint-Humet, 
which has a small belfry; Notre Dame de la Joie church ; 
Penmarc’h church, with two steeples, in the middle of the. 
town; the gray, sombre, square tower of Saint-Gu 6 nold, 
with its mill to the left; Taliferne point, the highest rock 
in the vicinity, with a little white hut on it; La Torche, a 
peninsula, with a ruin on it, presenting the appearance of 
an islet, especially in foggy weather, and so high as to be 
visible over Penmarc’h point from the southward. There 
are then, to the northward, a number of churches, among 
which the most conspicuous are, that of Notre Dame de 
Trounouane, with three steeples, on a hummock two thirds 
of a mile inland; that of Plouueour, on a height 3J miles in 
the interior, visible from N W., W., S., and SE.; and that 
of Plouhinec, about two miles east of Audierne, the white 
spire of which is seen from seaward before the land is 
raised. 

Vessels coming from the southward would not be apt to 
make the landfall at Penmarc’h, unless too much allowance 
had been made for the northwesterly current. The land is 
low for 4 miles eastward from the point. To a vessel 5 
miles south-southeastward of it, there would be seen, to the 
left of the light, Nona islet, and outside the latter, Meu- 
Hir and Guerveur always show above water. The latter 
are commonly called Les Pelen by pilots and others. Saint- 


TALIFERNE POINT. 


407 


Pierre chapel aud semaphore will be seen to the left of the 
light-tower. Tlie chapel is a large edifice, with a square 
tower visible some distance. To the right will be seen, in 
order, Saint-Pierre village; Notre Dame de la Joie church; 
Kerity mill and church, (in this direction will also be seen 
the red roof and white gable of the life boat house;) Les 
Etocs rocks; Saiut-Guenol6 mill and tower. From the 
deck of a good-sized ship La Torche peninsula will also be 
seen over the laud. 

Besides these marks are a number of churches and stee¬ 
ples farther to the eastward, of which Ploun^our is the 
most conspicuous. 

Having made land, if bound to the southeastward, follow 
directions given in the latter i)art of chapter X. 

From Saint-Pierre cape the coast runs N. | W.l^ miles, to 
Taliferne point, on which the sea breaks with such fury 
during NW. gales that the roar is heard at Pont PAbbe, 7 
miles off. In fact, it takes its name (Hell’s hole) from hav¬ 
ing a hole into which the sea dashes with a tremendous 
noise. Rocks extend 1 mile to seaward, among which are 
the entrances of the two little ports of Saint-Gu^nol^ and 
Notre Dame de la Joie, where the smaller coasters can run 
in and ground. 

The violence of the sea striking here from NW. is illus¬ 
trated by the huge masses of rock, 25 and 30 cubic yards in 
size, that have been carried up 50 to 75 yards from the 
shore. For 200 yards inland the low ground is covered by 
fragments, of the size of paving-stones. Duriuga very heavy 
gale the inhabitants declare it to be as dangerous to walk 
there as in front of an exploding mine. 

From Taliferne the coast runs 1 mile east-northeastward, 
and is indented by two small bays, Wibbine and Poulbrien, 
which, together with Portz-Carn, in the SW. part of PAuse 
de la Torche to the eastward, are the only places where a 
vessel embayed and unable to claw off’ against a westerly 
gale could be run on shore with any chance of saving the 
crew. 

Poulbrien is an opening in the coast, just north of, Tali¬ 
ferne, 200 yards deep. A vessel running in there would have 
8J fathoms at low water. It has the advantages of good 
depth at the entrance, no breakers outside, and no shoals to 


Taliferne point. 


Poulbrien. 


408 


POULBRIEN—WIBBINE. 


Directions. 


Wibbine. 


Directions. 


Portz-Carn. 


be avoided; the crew could land on the falling of the tide. 
On the other hand, it being only 70 yards wide, there is the 
danger of driving on the east or west shore, from the sea 
catching the stern. 

Steer south for Taliferne point in range with Penmarc’h 
light until 2 cables from the former, which is distinguished 
by its comparative height and a white hut on it. Then run 
in SE. for Poulbrien, right for the head of the bay, keeping 
a little nearer to the shore on the starboard hand, steering 
for about 110 yards to the right of Saint-Guenold tower, and 
nearly for the two mills immediately to the left of Kerity 
church. 

In thick weather this tower is the most conspicuous object 
on the coast, either from KW. or west. 

The fishermen give Wibbine as the best place for beach¬ 
ing, although the coast be rocky; it possesses the same good 
qualities as Poulbrien, and, in addition, is 230 yards widej 
the ship, losing part of her keel, of course, on the rock, would 
slide on a tolerably smooth plane, and the crew could reach 
the land from the head booms. It is a cove running in 
about 250 yards, COO yards from Poulbrien, just west of 
Portz Cam point. The depth is 5^ fathoms at low water. 

On approaching Taliferne, put the helm up to steer for 
Saint-Guenole tower on with Kerity mill, just to the right 
of the church. When about 1 cable off, bring the tower 
twice its own thickness to the right of the mill to enter the 
cove. After entering, put the helm hard over to port, and 
the ship will slide up the rock on the SW. shore, sheltered 
from the sea. On the eastern side of this little bight the 
sea would soon knock a ship to pieces. 

If too far to leeward to make the first range given, try to 
keep to windward of the line of the light and Saint-Guenol6 
mill, to the right of the church. Their alignment leads only 
60 yards from a rock which dries 7 feet 160 yards NW. 
from Portz-Oarn mound. 

The inlet of Wibbine, in bad weather, is covered with 
white water, but outside there are no breakers. 

Some French charts give Portz-Carn as the only safe place 
for beaching a vessel, during gales from WNW. and WSW. 
This is stoutly refuted by the pilots and seamen in the 
vicinity, and it is indeed difficult to see wherein its great 


PORTZ-CARN—AUDIERNE BAY. 


409 


advantages lie, as the outlying rocks are not easy to avoid 

among the breakers, and the depth between Portz-Carn 

point and a rock left to port in entering is only 10 feet at 

low water, or about 24 at high water, which is very little 

with a heavy sea running. Several vessels, of moderate ^ 

size, however, have run in there, saved their crews, and been 

lifted off afterward, with comparatively slight injury. 

Being’about 1 mile to the northward and westward of La Directions. 
Torche, keep the hummock of Portz-Carn on with the ruined 
church of Kerity, and when about 3 cables from the hum¬ 
mock, or when La Torche bears E., steer to pass about 70 
yards from Portz-Carn i^oint, keeping two mills, seen close 
together to the left of Kerity church, just to the right of 
two or three low, isolated houses on the beach. As soon as 
Portz-Carn point bears to the westward, hard a-port the 
helm and drive on the first little stretch of sand to the 
right. This latter course will be S. f E. 

It is important to try to strike the beach within a couple Caution, 
of hours after high water. 

La Torche bay is bounded in the N. by the narrow peaked Torche 
point of the same name, crowned by a ruin. 

The coast then for 13 miles is low, and dark in appear- Audieme bay. 
ance. It runs NKW. and KW., forming a bay 3 to 4 miles 
deep, bordered by a sand-beach extending 6 miles, from La 
Torche to Notre Dame de Penhors, a little chapel with two 
steeples, built right on the shore, and WNW. of which is an 
old semaphore. Thence to Plouzeret, which steeple is seen 
near that of La Trinite, two-thirds mile to the northward 
and eastward of it, the coj^st is fringed with rocky ledges, 
beyond which is a 1-mile sand-beach, separated by the black, 
steep, rocky point of Le Souc’h from still another beach IJ 
miles in length, extending to SW. of Plouhinec steeple, 
which stands on a height 2 miles east from Audierne. The 
pine woods of Mene, to the westward, are also a good land¬ 
mark. In this bay depths of 9 fathoms are found IJ miles 
from the shore. The bottom is sand from La Torche to a 
short distance SW. of Notre Dame de Penhors; from there 
to Audierne it is rock. 

At Plouvan, 9 miles to the southward and eastward of^ Kocket-appara- 

’ tus. 

Audierne, is a rocket-apparatus for sending a line to a ves¬ 
sel ashore. 


410 


POINTS DE L’ERVILLY. 


Plateau de 
Penhors. 


Anchorage. 


Currents. 


Pointe de I’Er- 
villy. 


Semaphore. 


Audierne. 


The Plateau de Penhors is that portion of rocky bottom 
included between the meridian of Penhors and Plouzeret. 
Outside it is sand. 

Excepting perhaps a small pebbly inlet to the southward 
of Le Souc’h point, there is not a place on the shore of the 
bay where a ship’s boat could land with safety during SSW. 
to NW. breezes. The Gavrais are the only fishermen. 
They take to the water like dogs, and are of very great 
assistance in saving the crews of vessels driven ashore. 

Vessels have been known to ride out tolerably heavy gales 
of wind in 6 fathoms (low water) sandy bottom, with La 
Torche bearing ESE., and Penmarc’h light in the south- 
southeastward. The currents there are feeble. A vessel 
drawing too much to remain in such depths with a high sea, 
could come-to at or near high water, and the Kdrity life¬ 
boat, which is seldom deterred from putting off, could land 
the crew before low water. 

At 10 miles off Penmarc’h the current of the flood sets 
northeastward and then on the coast; the part that strikes 
abreast 1?^. D. de Penhors divides into two branches, one of 
which runs to the southward round Penmarc’h point, and 
the other to the northwestward toward Audierne and the 
Eaz de Sein. The seamen about Audierne agree in saying 
that 2 miles off La Gamelle, during the first three hours of 
the ebb the current sets to the southeastward, and during 
the last three of the ebb and all of the flood, that is, for 
nine consecutive hours, it runs to the northwestward. 

At 14J miles NW. by N. from Penmarc’h, and miles 
ESE. J E. from the Bee du Eaz,, is the Pointe de I’Ervilly, 
moderately high, with a round tower quarter way up the 
height, near a semaphore. The dwelling of the latter is 
white. Geographical number, B. G. P. F. 

At IJ- miles to the northeastward of it is the Pointe de 
Eaoulic, crowned by a battery, the west point of the en¬ 
trance to the Goayen river. On the right bank of the lat¬ 
ter, about three-fourths of a mile up, is the town of Audi¬ 
erne, hidden by the high point on which stands the upper 
light-tower. Opposite, on the left bank, is the village of 
Poulgoazec. 

Vessels drawing 16f feet can enter the port or river at 
high-water springs; but portions of it dry at low water 


Port. 


AUDIERNE LIGHTS—SHOALS. 


411 


Vessels rounding inside are sheltered from all winds. The 
largest vessel that has entered for a number of years was 
of 300 tons burden, drawing 14 feet. 

At Audierne, near the garden of the Capucins convent, 
is a circular tower, 31 feet high, showing a fixed white, ca- 
topric, fourth-order light, 69 feet above sea-level, visible 12 
miles 15° each side of the line to the lower light. 

The latter, 1,203 yards S. 15° W. from the former, is a 
fixed red, fourth-order, dioptric light, exhibited, at an eleva¬ 
tion of 36 feet, from a circular tower 30 feet high, on the 
end of a jetty built on the rocks projecting from Eaoulic 
point. It is visible 7 miles. 

In line the two lead up the channel west of La Gamelle 
shoal. 

To the westward of the light-towers are two white pyram¬ 
idal beacons, leading up the Grand Oheual, K 20^ E. 

A life-boat is stationed here j it is launched in the port at 
high water, at Trescadec at low water. 

The bar of the river abreast the lower light dries 4 feet 
at low water. 

It is high water, full and change, at Audierne, at 3*^ I5“. 
Mean springs rise 13 feet; neaps, 61 feet. 

On Le Corbeau rock, 300 yards southeastward from the 
lower light, is a beacon. 

The shoal of La* Gamelle is a little over half a mile in ex¬ 
tent, lying about three-fourths of a mile to the southward of 
the river bar; a black buoy marks the NE. extremity, and 
a red one the west. It dries 61 feet at low water. Kunning 
to the northwestward or southeastward off the port, the red 
buoy should be passed at two cables, keeping the Bee du Kaz 
open of Pointe de I’Ervilly. 

Barzic shoal is 200 yards to the NW. of the red buoy of 
La Gamelle. The bottom is rocky at Ilf feet, and steep-to. 

About 200 yards west of Barzic shoal is that of Pouldu, 
covered by I9J feet at low water. It extends 500 yards to 
the southward. 

The Basse Foruic is the most easterly of all the shoals. 
It is covered by 9 feet of water, and is separated by only a 
narrow channel from La Gamelle in the NW. 

In heavy S W. gales there is a line of breakers all the way 
across from Points de PErvilly to Pointe de Souc’h. 


Audierne 
light: Lat.. 48° 
OF10"N.; long. 
40 32/ 32" W. 


Kaoulic po i n t 
light: Lat. 48° 
00' 34" N.; long. 
40 32'33" W. 


Beacons. 


Life-boat. 


Bar. 


Tide.s. 


Le Corbeau. 


La G-amelle. 


Basse Barzic. 


Basse Pouldu. 


Basse Fornic. 


Breakers. 


412 


ROADS—CHANNELS. 


Eoadstead. 


Entering. 

Eastern chan¬ 
nel. 


Channel west 
of LaGamelle. 


Caution. 


Grand Chenal. 


Directions. 


Chenal de la 
Vierge. 

Signal station. 


Population. 

Commerce. 


Coast. 


Inside these dangers is Audierne roadstead, in which the 
depth is 13 to 161 feet, over sand and rock. Small vessels, 
prevented from entering the port, have ridden out moder¬ 
ate gales of wind under the lee of La Gamelle; but the an¬ 
chorage cannot be called good. The best range for coming- 
to is that of the two white pyramids west of the lights j 
sand bottom predominates there. 

There are four passes leading into the port of Audierne. 

In the eastern channel, between Basse Fornic and La 
Gamelle, there are only 1\ feet of water, and it is impracti¬ 
cable, even for vessels drawing less than that, with the 
wind from the west, north, or east, or fresh from south. 

The channel to the westward of La Gamelle has a least 
depth of 14| feet at low water, between the shoals, and 13 
feet at 300 yards off the mole. The range of the two light- 
towers leads up it. After passing the red buoy on La 
Gamelle port the helm a little to avoid the Basse Barzic. 

The channel breaks, in bad weather, from the Basse 
Naour (the tail of Barzic) to La Gamelle. 

Do not trust to the red buoy of La Gamelle always re¬ 
maining ill place. 

The Grand Chenal is the deepest of all, having not less 
than 4 fathoms between the shoals, and 13 feet at 500 yards 
from the mole. It is between Barzic and Pouldu shoals. 
The sea never breaks in it. 

The range of the two white pyramids leads up it, K. 20^ 
E., after which pass 55 yards from the lower light, and keep 
on parallel to the tow-path. 

The Chenal de la Yierge is close inshore, between PEr- 
villy point and a detached rock, the Basse Neroth. 

From a signal-staff*, near the upper light, piloting-signals 
are made to bring vessels in or warn them off*. 

The population of Audierne is about 2,000. 

There is a comparatively extensive trade to and from the 
place, carried on in foreign as well as native bottoms. The 
exports consist principally of alkalies, rye, wheat, fish, and 
empty casks. 

From Pointe de I’Ervilly to the Bee du Raz the distance 
is miles, and the coast between runs WNW. J W. It is 
steep-to, of moderate height, and over it are seen four or 


SHOALS W. OF AUDIERNE. 


413 


five steeples. Boats can land, with an oft-sbore breeze, in 
TAnse de Cabestan, bordered by a half-mile beach, 1 mile 
from PErvilly point; in Le Loch, a small pebbly bay, 
miles farther to the westward; at Portzloubous; at Port- 
zen 5 and at Brestr^e, SE. of the semaphore. 

On the parallel of Pointe de PErvilly, commencing at 
miles from it and extending to the westward, are a series of 
shoals, over which are depths of 22 to 28 feet, with the ex¬ 
ception of Les Ninkinous. They are all cleared by keeping 
Plouhinec steeple midway between the tower and the mill 
on PErvilly point, until La Vieille rock (off the Pointe du 
Kaz) is open to the right of Le Tevenuec, which last range 
can be kept for the Kaz de Sein. In bad weather it should 
not be attempted to pass either over or between the shoals, 
as the sea breaks heavily throughout as well as on the en¬ 
tire plateau extending, 1 mile from land, between Basse ar 
C’haru and PErvilly point. 

All the coast of Finistere, from the meridian of Audierne 
to the Bee du Kaz, is called Le Cap Sizun. 

The Basses Piriou are 400 yards in extent N. and S., and 
300 yards E. and W. They are 3J miles W. from Pointe 
de PErvilly ; over the southern part the depth is 23J feet- 
To pass inshore of them keep Coumodoc, a large pointed 
rock in the NW., open to the left of Gorl6gr6itz rock; to 
pass between them and Les Niukinous, keep the right edge 
of Coumodoc on with the Bee du Kaz. Plougof steeple 
bearing K. leads midway between them and into Portzlou¬ 
bous. 

Les Ninkinous are four in number, making a quadrangle, 
4 cables long E. and W., and 2 cables N. and S. On the 
NE. rock is a depth of 13 feet, and on the two in the SW., 
23 feet. They are 1 mile to the westward and a little N. of 
the Basses Piriou. To pass between them and the Basse 
ar C'harn, keep Le Tevennec touching the W. part ofGorl^- 
gr^itz. La Vieille rock on with Le Tevennec leads 6 cables 
SW. of them. 

The Basse ar C’harn, 1 mile W. by K, is covered by 28J 
feet of water. La Vieille rock on with Le Tevenuec leads 
360 yards to the southward and westward. 

Masclougr^itz shoal is composed of two patches of 5 and 
6 fathoms respectively, 200 yards apart. It is a dangerou 


Shoals. 


Cap Sizun. 

Basses Piriou. 


Les Kiukiuous. 


Basse arC’harn 


Ma8clougr6itz 


414 


EEC DU RAZ—ROCKS. 


Cornoc-Bras. 


Bee du Raz. 


Life-boat. 

Rocks. 


spot because of the treineudous sea raised by a weather 
tide. Its bearings are : Le G’hlec rock, off Poiiite du Van, 
touching the Bee du Eaz, NNB. f E.; the left side of Ar 
Gador (a square rock on Pile de Sein) in range beyond Le 
Gouelvau, a solitary rock, narrow and leaning to the right. 

To pass between Masclougr6itz and Ar O’harn, keep Le 
Tevennec open its own width to the westward of La Vieille. 

To pass between Masclougreitz and Cornoc-Bras, keep 
Le C’hlec rock on with the left side of Gorl6greitz. 

Le Cornoc-Bras is a shoal 1 mile W. of Masclougreitz, 
covered by lOJ to 26J feet of water. The seamen in the vi¬ 
cinity call it Le Grand Cornet. At low water the kelp 
growing on it is visible. 

The Pointe du Eaz is the western extremity of Cap Si- 
zun, in the department of Finistere. The rocks forming 
the extremity of the point are only about 20 yards in ex¬ 
tent north and south j but a number of others, some of 
which cover and uncover, extend miles to the westward 
of the light. 

A life-boat is stationed at the Bee du Eaz. 

Of the rocks off the Bee, La ‘Plate (or Petite Vieille) is 
the farthest out, and dries Ilf feet; it is of small extent, 
and is about 200 yards SW. of La Vieille, a large rock al¬ 
ways showing above water, and which appears from a dis¬ 
tance to be the outermost, and well separated from any 
other. La Plate is a most dangerous shoal from not being 
seen between half-flood and half-ebb, except in heavy 
weather, and from the strength of the currents flowing 
round and over it. 

Inshore, to the eastward of it, are Cornoc La Euina and 
Argoent, both of which uncover. The latter is near Gorld- 
greitz, a large rock, commonly called Gourle, always show¬ 
ing above water and surrounded to 100 yards by others that 
cover at high water. Lastly, Gorleis, which also remains 
above high water, is 20 yards from the point. Between it 
and Gorlegr^itz is a channel with 19 feet at half-tide; ves¬ 
sels of 100 tons have often passed through. Boats are apt 
to be drawn in by the current of the ebb when becalmed in 
the northward. 


BEC DU RAZ LIGHTS—VAN POINT. 


415 


Ou the highest part of the Bee da Raz is a square tower, 

49 feet high, showing a fixed lokite^ dioptric, first order light, 
elevated 259 feet above sea level, visible 18 miles. (East light.) 

Oq a cliff 220 yards N. W. from it, iu the direction of 
the Basse Plate, is another fixed dioptric light, visible 
10 miles, exhibited at an elevation of 206 feet abov'e sea- 
level, from an iron tower 26 feet high. This light is visible 
when between the bearings of S. 10^ E. and S. 40° E., illu¬ 
minating the space between Les Bardlets and the rocks off 
the Pointe dn Van ; and when between the bearings of K 
69^ E. and S. 69° E., covering La Vieille and other rocks. 

From being built on the cliff it is sometimes called La Fa- 
laise light, and will be so distinguished in this work. 

At one-third of a mile E. by S. from the Bee du Eaz light- Semaphore, 
tower, is a semaphore signal-station, the house of which is 
white. 

From the Bee du Raz the shore runs 1 mile east, bending Pointe du van. 
again to the northward 1^ miles to the Pointe du Van, after 
which it trends to the eastward again. There are several 
rocks near the latter point, among which are Le Van, quite 
large, and close inshore; Le C’hlec, narrow, some distance 
out; Basse Jaune, (Bas Velean,) which dries 2 feet, 1 mile 
N. by E. from the point. Other shoals, covered by various 
depths, extend to the west-southwestward, the principal and 
outermost of which is Cornoc an Trdas, 7 cables from the 
point, and which dries at low water. All the latter are 
cleared in the northward by keeping Br^zellec point, 2 miles 
E. by N., open of Pointe du Van. 

At 3 cables south of Saint-They chapel, on the latter 
point, is the opening of a little ravine, where boats can land 
with N. or NW. winds. 

Between the Bee du Raz in the SSW. and Van point, iu Bale des Tr6- 
the NNE., is the bay of Les Trepass^s, at the head of which 
is a two-third mile sand-beach, from which opens a little 
valley. In it fine gray sand will be found at 9 fathoms, but 
there is always a swell heaving in from NW., rendering an¬ 
chorage undesirable; the breakers extend 400 yards from 
the beach. 

The NE. shore is steep-to, but fringed with the rocks men¬ 
tioned above. These are cleared in entering the bay by 
keeping to the southward of the range of Plongof steeple, 


416 


CHAUSS^lE DE SEIN—LIGHT. 


(the largest at the end of the valley,) open to the right of 
the NE. end of the beach. 

On the southern shore, north of the semaphore, and west¬ 
ward of the rocks near the beach, is Poul-Mostree, where 
boats can land with southerly winds. The place is recog¬ 
nizable by the path and steps. 

chau886e de The Chaussee de Sein, or des Saints, constitutes the great 
danger to vessels bound northward for the English channel 
or Brest. It is an extensive cluster of islands, rocks, and 
shoals, occupying a space of Ilf miles in length, W. by 
and E. by S.j the breadth is nearly 2 miles in the eastern 
part, tapering to a few hundred yards at the western end. 

DedeSein. L’lle de Sein, in the eastern section, is the largest of the 
group, low, flat, 2 miles long and inhabited by a few fisher¬ 
men and pilots. In the NE. part, near the settlement, is a 
small harbor, with gravel and mud bottom, which dries at 
low water. Korth of the village is Ar Gador rock, which, 
viewed from the SE., appears flat, with precipitous sides, 
and split in the middle. 

Light: Lat. In the NW. part of He de Sein stands the light-tower, 
long, 4 ° 52' 12 " which is circular, 142 feet in height, and exhibits a wmte 
fixed 2 i\id.fiash light, elevated 148 feet above the sea, visible 
18 miles. The fiashes are at intervals of 4 minutes^ preceded 
and followed by short eclipses, which, in ordinary weather, 
are not total within 12 miles. The illuminating apparatus 
is dioptric, of the first order. 

Life-boat. There is a life-boat stationed on the island. 

Basse Ocoi- TheBasseOcculentale,thewestemextremityoftheOhaus- 
see, is 8i miles W. f N. from the light, and is covered by 
23J feet of water. 

Basse Froide. ^ All that part of the Chaussee extending 4 miles to the 
eastward of the latter is called the Basse Froide, and in¬ 
cludes numerous shoal patches. In the eastern part several 
of these are awash at low water, and three uncover in ordi¬ 
nary tides: Le Corneugen (5 feet) on the range of the Bee 
du Eaz and He de Sein lights; flAr Men (13f feet) 5 cables 
east of the latter, (a light-tower is in course of construction 
on it;) and Bas-Yen (8 l feet) one-half mile north of the 
latter. 

Passage. A vessel drawing 22 feet can cross the Chaussee east of 
this tower, passing 3 cables from it. Going northward, at 


PONT DE SEIN—PASSES. 


417 


low water, the vessel’s head may be laid for Bas-Ven, pass¬ 
ing afterward 300 yards east of it. This will lead 100 
yards from a 3-foot patch SE. of Bas-Veii. 

At 1 mile east of Ar Men is Le Morvesen rock, which dries 
10 feet; between it and I’lle de Sein is the Pont de Sein, on 
which are a multitude of rocks showing at low water, in¬ 
creasing in number toward the island. There are two 
passes among them, hardly practicable because of the swift¬ 
ness of the current; but a vessel might be caught there in 
a fog with strong southerly winds and have no other chance 
of keeping off the rocks. 

The Passe de H^lorete is 3 miles west of the light, and ® 
runs north and south, passing one-half mile inside of Ar 
Keurlac’h, a large rock, surrounded by a number of smaller 
ones, and the outermost of those that never cover. The 
channel is 1 cable in width, with a least depth of 23 feet at 
low water, and is bordered in the west by Ar Heule, which 
dries 18 feet at lowest springs; Helorto, which dries the 
same amount; and Ar Trousque, farther north, which dries 
Ilf feet. In the east it is bordered by Oornoc-guen, which 
dries 5 feet, and Poullenon, which remains awash at high 
water. 

The Passe de Trousyard runs i^NW., and is IJ miles long. ^^^assedeTrous- 
The southern entrance is IJ miles SW. by W. J W. from 
the light-tower. Le Forhok and Le Trousyard, neither of 
which ever cover, are passed to port. 

A vessel caught to windward of the Ohauss^e, and una- caution, 
ble to work off, should try to make the channel just east of 
the light-tower in course of construction on Ar Men. The 
navigation of it is much easier than that of the two just 
described. 

The easternmost shoals of the Ohauss^e comprise a num- PontdesChats. 
ber forming the Pont des Chats, one of which, Le Chat, 
miles S. 61° E. from the light, dries 4 feet at low water. 

The foul ground extends one-half mile to the eastward of it. 

It is high water, full and change, at Pile de Sein at 3^ Tides. 

21“. Ordinary springs rise 17^ feet, neaps Ilf feet. 

At 3J miles NW. f W. from the Bee du Raz is Tevennec Tevennec islet, 
islet; it is quite large, and is surrounded by rocks and 
shoals extending 1 mile to the southeastward, and two- 
thirds of a mile to all other points. The flood-tide setting 
27 N c 


418 


TEVENNEC LIGHT—SHOALS. 


Light: Lat. 
48° 04' 19" N.; 
long. 4° 48' 00" 
W. 


Les Barillets. 


Other shoals. 


To distinguish 
He de Sein from 
Ouessant. 


on the plateau during the last four hours makes it a some¬ 
what dangerous spot. 

On Tevennec rock stands a square, stone tower, 43 feet 
in height, from which is exhibited, at an elevation of 92 
feet above the sea, a white flash light, with one red sector. It 
is visible 13 miles. The interval between the flashes is 4 
seconds; the illuminating apparatus is dioptric. The light 
shows white when between the bearings of N. 15° W. and 
N. 32^ W.; red when between N. 32^ VV. and N. 72"^ W.; 
white again between 72® W. and east through south. 
It is obscured when between east and N. 15° W. through 
north. 

The bottom in the vicinity of Tevennec islet is rock, ex¬ 
cept in the northward, where* finely-broken shell is found 1 
mile off, at 27 fiithoms. A vessel becalmed, and drifting 
on the rock with the ebb-tide, can anchor there. 

The two rocky heads called Les Barillets, at depths of 3 
and 5 feet respectively, are 800 yards southeastward from 
Tevennec; just clear of them in the SE. is a 22-foot patch, 
and still farther out two of 51 and 6i fathoms.* B^gueluan 
rock, 200 yards to the north-northeastward, indicates their 
vicinity until half-flood, when it covers. 

Among other rocks on the Tevennec plateau, the exterior 
are Forhok, 400 yards in the eastward, which dries 13 feet; 
Basse Triton, 800 yards K. by E., covered by 5i fathoms ; 
Le Kerdon, which never covers, 4 cables WNW., to the west¬ 
ward of which other rocks extend 2 cables farther. Among 
the latter is Le Moudenou, two-^thirds of a mile W. by N. 
from Le Tevennec; over it are depths of 3| to fii fathoms. 
The Basse. Plate or Ar Vas, which dries 1 foot, is half a 
mile SSW. i W. from Tevennec, and 50 yards SE. from it 
is a little plateau, over which are only 3 fathoms at low 
water. 

All these shoals are cleared in the SW. by Ooumodoc 
rock, (SE. of Pointe du Eaz light,) to the right of Gorld- 
gr^itz rock. 

Since the establishment of Tevennec and La Falaise lights 
there is not much danger of confounding He de Sein and 
Ouessant island, as was frequently done some years ago. 
Approaching from the southward at night, however, there 
is still a possibility of so doing, as a revolving light (every 


DISTINGUISHINa ILE DE SEIN FROM OUESSANT. 


419 


half-mimUe) will be seen in the eastward, whether the land 
ahead be the one or the other of the two islands j in the 
one case it would be Saint-Matthieu light, and in the other, 
that of Penmarc’h. It must also be borne in mind, that, of 
the four lights now exhibited in the immediate vicinity of 
He de Sein, only two are seen from the southward, and that 
the easternmost is fixed, and the other shows fiafiies, which 
also obtains in making those on Ouessant. On the other hand. 

He de Sein light is constantly white, and flashes only once 
in 4 minutes, whereas the western light on Ouessant flashes 
3 times in 1 minute, once red and twice white. Should these 
very apparent differences be disregarded, La Falaise light 
will suddenly show in the ENE., possibly in time to bring 
by the wind and head off* W. or SW. 

In the day-time it must be remembered that Ouessant is a 
high and extensive island, the top of which is level, and on 
which are only two light-towers and a few mills and isolated 
houses. To the eastward as well as to the westward of the 
high land, rocks will be seen comparatively low and not far 
from the Island. L’lle de Sein, on the other hand, is low, 
and has no mills. What houses there are, are principally 
grouped near the steeple. The rocks extend 44 miles to the 
westward of it, and broken water some distance beyond 
that. The high land of the Bee du Eaz might, in thick 
weather, be taken for Ouessant. The semaphore near the 
light would assist the illusion. But there is nothing on 
Ouessant to correspond to the light-tower on Tevennec, or 
the one building on Ar Men rock. 

There is also a notable difference in the soundings to the soundings, 
south ward of the two islands in question. South of Ouessant 
depths of 49 fathoms will be kept from 12 miles to about 1 
mile distance, but south of the Chaussee de Sein the depths 
are not greater than 16J fathoms at 1 mile, increasing to 30 
fathoms at 7 miles, and only 42 at 11 miles. 

Steering N. or i^E., off this portion of the coast, is always Approaching 

, . , , , i.-.-, . Chaussee de 

dangerous, unless sights have been obtained during a con-s.dn from the 

. ■ , , .,. 1 , southward. 

tinuation of good weather, and the exact position be known. 

Not unfrequently have vessels, bound for the English chan¬ 
nel or expecting to make Ouessant, sighted the Chaussee 
ahead from errors of 30 or 40 miles of longitude. The gun¬ 
boat La Panthere, coming up from the Mediterranean, sud- 


420 


TO AVOID THE CHAUSSfe DE SEIN. 


Caution. 


To avoid 
Chau8s6e. 


Eule. 




denly made He de Sein light right ahead, when tue reckon¬ 
ing put her 40 miles clear of the Ohauss^e. The wreck of 
the San6 was also brought about in a similar way. The only 
safeguard against such terrible mishaps is in the frequent 
and regular use of the lead. If bound to the northward 
round the Ohaussee de Sein, it is recommended, during con¬ 
tinuance of fogs, not to go inshore of the 75-fathom depths, 
and anyhow to sound at least at every 10 miles, while on a 
N. or ilNE. course. This maximum distance between sound¬ 
ings is not given arbitrarily, but for the following reason : 
Depths of 42 fathoms are found to the westward of the 
Ohaussee, or not less than 11 miles to the southward. Should 
a cast in that depth give a falsely greater depth, from not 
being up and down, or from any error or carelessness, 10 
miles could be run, and then the lead would give unmistakable 
evidence of the approach to land. 

If the flood-tide be making, its drift should be added to 
the vessePs speed through the water to make the 10 miles 
over the ground between soundings, 
the A set of rules, accompanied by a table, have been laid 
down by Capt. H. de Roujoux, of the French navy, for 
avoiding the Chauss6e de Sein, when coming from the south¬ 
ward in thick weather. Extracts from them are as follows: 

When, from the estimated position of the ship, in lati¬ 
tude 400 or 46^ 30^, Ouessaut island bears between N. and 
NE., shape a course directly for it, and begin sounding at 
every 10 miles from the time that the reckoning puts you 
10 or 20 miles from the topographical curve of 164 fathoms. 
If less than 192 fathoms be found, when the estimated posi¬ 
tion plotted would call for more, head off to SW. until no 
bottom is reached with 192 fathoms of line out, and then 
steer again for Ouessant. After finding (depths of less than 
164 fathoms on the new course, 35 miles may be made with¬ 
out sounding j after which the following table (No. I) should 
be used until certain of having passed the Ohaussee. 


RULES—TABLES. 


421 


Table I. 


Soundings reduced to low 
water. 

Nature of the bottom. 

Courses to be 
steered, 
(true.) 

M aximum 
distance 
between 
soundings. 

Over 65 fathoms. ^ 

Between 60 and 65 fathoms.. | 

Between 54J and 60 fathoms .. 
Less than 54;^ fathoms. 

Mud. 

Any but mud. 

IMu'd. 

Any but mud. 

Whatever it be. 

Whatever it be. 

WNW. 

N. 

WNW. 

NNW. 

WNW. 

W. 

10 miles. 

10 to 3 miles. 
10 miles. 

10 to 3 miles. 
10 miles. 

10 miles. 


This table, like the others farther on, is used in the fol¬ 
lowing way : Taking the first line as an example, if the 
depth found, reduced to low water, be over 65 fathoms, and 
the bottom mud, the course should be made WNW., making 
10 miles, as a maximum, without sounding. If the bottom 
be not mud steer N. (true) sounding according to judgment, 
but not less often than every 10 miles. 

Coming from the northward there is no great danger of 
striking the Chaussee de Sein. Bound out from Brest there 
is only a short distance to run after discharging the pilot; 
the only necessary precaution is to make allowance for the 
set of the ebb-tide. But the following rules given by Cap¬ 
tain Koujoux may be of service to a vessel coming from the 
English channel, with the latitude known to be between 48^ 
5' and 48o 18'. 

Being in 60 fathoms water, and latitude between 48° 5' 
and 48° 18', apply the rules given in Table No. II. 


Coming from 
the northward. 


Rule. 


Table II. 


Soundings reduced to low water. 

Courses to be steered, 
(true.) 

Maximum dis¬ 
tance between 
soundings. 

Over 60 fathoms... 

SE..,. 

1 mile. 

Between 55 and 60 fathoms. 

S ..."i. 

1 mile. 

Less than 55 fathoms ... 

W*. 

1 mile. 




* During the flood-tides steer WSW. instead of W., and during the ebb-tide WNW 
instead of W., or more or less to the northward or southward, according to the stage 
of tide and strength of current. 


By the time that 4 or 5 miles of westing have been made / 

from the starting point, the vessel will be on the parallel of 
the Chaussee, approximately. 

The vessel may also be considered on that parallel when 


































422 


RULE—TABLE. 


the difference between two consecutive soundings (one 
being over 60 fathoms) is over 5J fathoms.* 

Coming from Coming from the westward in thick weather, the greatest 

tne westward. ^ . . . • . 

caution should be observed, and it is decidedly advisable to 
select Ouessant for a landfall*, as a vessel would be in the 
breakers of the Qhauss^e de Sein long before making land. 
If certain, however, of being to the southward of the par¬ 
allel of the Ghauss4e, the following rule may be adopted, 
making ample allowance for any error in latitude that might 
put the vessel N. of 48^. 

Kuie. Steer E. until in 66 fathoms, when follow the rules in 

Table No. Ill, unless soft-mud bottom had been found 
before reaching the 66 -fathom line, in which case Table 
No. IV should be entered immediately. 

As soon as 10 miles in longitude have been made after com¬ 
mencing to use Table No. Ill, use Table No. IV' until it is evi- 
dentthat the 55-fathom line runs to the northward, when steer 
N. also, and the fact of having doubled the Ohaussee will 
be shown b}’ the 55-fathom line trending to the northeast¬ 
ward, and by irregularities in the soundings. 

This rule was devised from consideration of the fact that 
a line drawn ESE. and WNW., passing 13 miles westward 
of the Ohaussee, would coincide, between the meridians of 
40 32^ W. and 5 ^ 15' W., with the 55-fathom line of sound¬ 
ings, which latter runs northward near the latter meridian. 

Table III. 


Soundings reduced to low water. 

Courses to be steered, 
(true.) 

Maximum dis¬ 
tance between 
soundings. 

Over 66 fathoms. 

E. or NE *. 

.3 miles. 

12 miles. 

6 miles. 

3 miles. 

Between 60 and 66 fathoms. 

Between 55 and 60 fathoms. 

Less than 55 fathoms... 

SE. by E . 

S. or SEt. 

S. or W +. 




* Steer NE. if certain of being south of the parallel of Penmarc’h. 
t Steer SE. if certain of being south of the parallel of the Chaus86e. 

X Steer S. if certain of being south of the parallel of the Chaussee, sounding every 5 
miles. 


*Aii increase in the height of the swell is an almost certain indica¬ 
tion of approaching the Chaussee. If a change in the state of the sea 
does not corroborate the soundings, the latter should be watched care¬ 
fully for an error. 















RAZ DE SEIN. 


423 


Table IV. 


Soundings reduced to low- 
water. 

Nature of the bottom. 

Courses to be 
steered, 
(true.) 

Maximum 

distance 

between 

sound’gs. 

Over 60 fathoms. 

Whatever il he._ 

NE 

3 miles. 

5 miles. 

3 miles. 

5 miles. 

5 miles. 

3 miles. 

3 miles. 

Between 55 and 60 fathoms.. ^ 
Between 49 and 55 fathoms.... 
Between 44 and 49 fathoms.. | 
Less than 44 fathoms. 

Mud. 

Any but mud. 

Whatever it be. 

Mud. 

Any but mud. 

Whatever it be. 

NW. 

NW.orN*.... 

WNW. 

WNW. 

W. 

WSW. 


* Steer north if certain of being west of Penraarc’h. 


These rules are given principally for the guidance of Caution, 
steamers, though, of course, there may be times that they 
may prove of use to sailing-vessels. Whatever be the class 
of vessel, if the night be so dark as not to be able to see if 
the lead-line tends up and down, or otherwise, it would be 
advisable to lie-to, with the ship’s head off shore, until day¬ 
light, or until it becomes less thick, as considerable accu¬ 
racy is needed in the soundings, particularly in adopting 
the rules embraced in tables Kos. Ill and lY. 

A mere casual glance at the rules may impress one with 
the idea that they are of no great practical worth; but a 
very little study of the matter will prove their reliability, 
and will convince the navigator that with an accurately- 
marked lead-line, and a good quartermaster, he can keep 
the ship clear of all danger, without waiting for it to break 
away to leeward. 

The Raz de Sein, the channel between the Pointe du Raz RazdeSein. 
and the Chaussee de Sein, is miles wide, with depths of 
11 to 21 fathoms. Off the southern entrance are sevwal 
shoals, described in the early part of this chapter. 

The tidal currents, flowing through the Raz de Sein, are Currents, 
very swift during spring-tides, and set right on some of the 
rocks, notwithstanding which it is not generally considered 
very dangerous; the coasters use it whenever the weather 
will permit. 

The current of the flood at springs runs sometimes 9 Flood-tide, 
knots, and at neaps 3 knots. This current is formed of 
two branches, one coming from the south-southwestward, 
over the Pont des Chats, and running to the north-northeast¬ 
ward between La Vieille and Tevennec, and the other coming 


























424 


DIRECTIONS. 


Ebb-tide. 


Directions. 


At night. 


from Aiidierae bay, rouudiiig La Vieille, and setting to the 
north-northeastward. This is the early flood; after the 
second hour the current increases in strength and sets 
north on Les Barillets. 

The current of the ebb comes from the north-northeast¬ 
ward and runs right for the Pont des Chats; a small por¬ 
tion passing near La Vieille runs out SSE. after having 
rounded it. 

The experience of pilots, coasters, and others shows that 
whether going southward or northward, the best course to 
follow through the Raz de Sein is to pass close to La Vieille, 
(not less than 300 yards in the S W. to clear La Plate.) after¬ 
ward heading NNE. or SSE. One great advantage in so 
doing is that the danger is averted of being swept on Les 
Barillets during the flood-tide, or the Pout des Chats during 
the ebb, as might happen to a vessel venturing in mid¬ 
channel. The current sweeping round La Vieille carries a 
ship alongon her course, whichis well worthy of consideration 
if under half-steam power, or if the breeze be light/ Being 
near a prominent mark, like that rock, also defines a ship’s 
position; otherwise a captain would be compelled to rely 
upon frequent compass bearings, and the unreliability of 
such taken with the compass-card constantly moving, the 
necessity of having the chart on deck, whether it be rain¬ 
ing or not, and lastly the little time to be lost in plotting, 
with the ship going sometimes 18 knots over the ground 
with the wind and tide, are very evident disadvantages. 

For ranges to pass between the ishoals at the southern 
entrance, see beginning of chapter. 

The establishment of La Falaise light on the Bee du Raz 
has greatly simplified.the passage of the Raz at night. As 
it only shows between the plateau of Tevennec and the rocks 
oft' Pointe du Van in the northward, it follows that a vessel 
can steer for or from the Pointe du Raz on any course that 
will keep both lights visible on that point. Should La Fal¬ 
aise light be suddenly obscured, the bearing of the other 
will immediately tell whether to steer to the eastward or 
westward to sight it again. 

With regard to doubling La Plate shoal, La Falaise light 
in line with that of Bee du Raz gives the time to change 
course to the northeastward or southeastward. The former 


DIRECTIONS. 


425 


light will be seen a few moments before the range is made, 
as it illuminates the space between the SW. edge of Teven- 
nec plateau and Oornoc-Bras. It is obscured from the 
southward to prevent any danger of its being confounded 
with Tevennec light. 

The northern limit of the red sector of Tevennec light lies 
in such direction that at whatever point that sector be en¬ 
tered from the northward, the ship’s head may be laid for 
File de Sein, with the sole condition that both lights on the 
Bee du Raz be visible at the time of shaping that course. 
The peculiar excellence of that disposition of the lights is 
that it makes the navigator independent of the compasses, 
which are unreliable in themselves with the vessel sheering 
about in a strong tide-way, and the course by which varies 
with the point of departure. 

The western limit of the ivhite sector of Tevennec light 
lies in such direction that the pilot by remaining within it 
is never in the western part of the channel. It would be 
better perhaps were the white ray visible from a little nearer 
to La Yieille j as it is, while in the lokite sector, it is advisa¬ 
ble to keep near the limit of the red^ the dividing-line being 
well clear of the rocks. 

The white ray of Tevennec light seen from the southeast¬ 
ward, shows over Masclougr^itz rock ; as there is never less 
than 5 fathoms on it, vessels of moderate draught need never 
fear it j but large ships would do well to avoid it, according 
to the following directions. 

If going northward with the flood-tide, bring Bee du Raz 
light to bear between K 4(P E. and N. 10^ W., and steer for 
it. On entering the red sector of Tevennec light, steer for 
it until He de Sein bears between VV. by N. and WNW.; 
head for the latter, and when Tevennec shows white again 
steer for it. La Falaise light will be seen, and when it 
comes in range with the Bee du Raz light, port the helm to 
re-enter the red sector of that of Tevennec, steering E. by 
N. to NE., according as the speed of the current is greater 
or less in proportion to that of the ship; the object is to 
make a course good of NE. If La Falaise light be still vis¬ 
ible on entering the red sector of Tevennec, keep on to the 
northeastward, and when it is obscured watch for it to show 
again in the S. 40^ E., when steer away to the north-north- 


Directions. 


Goin^ north. 


426 


DIRECTIONS. 


Caution. 


Going south. 


Passing ove 
Masclougr6itz. 


Caution. 


4.nchorages. 


westward in the space illuminated by both lights on the 
Pointe du Raz. 

If La Falaise light be hidden before entering the red sector, 
it will show that the ship has been carried too far to the north¬ 
ward by the current, and instead of running to the north¬ 
ward and eastward, it would be necessary to run east, or 
even E. by S. if the ship be moving slowly through the 
water, to sight it again bearing S. 40^ E. 

Going southward with the ebb-tide, steer for Le Raz 
light about SE. by S., keeping both lights on that point vis¬ 
ible until Tevenuec light shows red^ when head for lie de 
Sein light. On entering the white sector of Tevenuec, change 
course to SSE. When the two lights on the Pointe du Raz 
come in line, steer to the east-southeastward until Tevenuec 
light shows red again. The course may then be shaped SE. 
by S. He de Sein light bearing WNW., indicates that the 
ship is clear to the southward of all the shoals, 
r If, from the stage of the tide, the draught of the ship, or 
the state of the sea, Masclougr^itz need not be feared, the 
directions are simplified correspondingly. Bound north, on 
entering the white sector of Tevenuec, (while steering for 
Bee du Raz light between N. 40° E. and K. 10 W.,) the 
ship may remain in it until off La Plate, (the two lights on 
the Pointe du Raz in line,) instead of keeping on until it 
shows red. Bound south, when Tevenuec light shows lohite 
in the NNW., it may be kept so until that on He de Sein 
bears WNW., instead of running to the east-southeastward 
to enter the red sector. 

A vessel should never attempt to run through the Raz de 
Sein with a fresh breeze against a strong current. It is 
dangerous for steamers to run with a strong current when 
the wind blows hard in the opposite direction. During neap- 
tides a sailing-vessel could stem the current with a good 
breeze. It is out of the question to beat through against 
the tide, and it is dangerous to do so under any circum¬ 
stances. 

There are several anchorages in the vicinity of the Raz 
de Sein, where vessels can come-to under different circum¬ 
stances. They are as follows: 

The Baie des Trepasses, 4 or 5 cables from the beach, in 


PILOTS—DOUARNENEZ BAY. 


427 


11 fathoms, over fine gray sand. If bound through the 
Eaz de Sein, get under way 1 hour before high water j 

Northeast 1 mile from Tevennec rock, in 20 to 28 fathoms 
over broken shells; 

North of He de Sein, with Le Tevennec bearing E. by N., 
in 24 fathoms, over gray sand and broken shells j 

One mile south of Ar Guerveur, which is south of He de 
Sein, in 9 fathoms, over rock, gravel, and broken shells. A 
ship losing her sails in a SW. gale might come-to there, bend 
new ones, and then run through the Raz. The current is 
feeble, and with a SW. wind the sea is less heavy than else¬ 
where. 

It is not compulsory to take a pilot for the Raz de Sein, Pilots, 
but it is generally advisable to do so if possible. They will 
be met off Audierue, or to the southward of the He de Sein. 

There is no danger in lying-to for one at 2 miles from the 
latter, as the currents are not strong, and run ENE. and 
WNW. It is only south of K61ourou, a rock oft* the SE* 
extremity of the island, that they set NNE. and SSW. 

The pilots cannot always board a ship. They cannot 
reach a vessel S. of the island during spring flood-tides; 
during neaps they can. Their boats generally lie aground 
until the half-flood, but they can be launched if nece ssary. 

A sailing-vessel arriving off the southern entrance of the 
Raz, may heave-to or lie off and on miles S. of Les 
Chats, take a i)ilot, and go through with the early flood. 

Between the Pointe du Van and Gapde la Chevre, 9 milesez 
NE. of it, is the entrance to Douarnenez bay, which extends 
in 10 miles to the eastward of the meridian of the latter, 
with depths decreasing from 18 to 7J fathoms, over sand, 
fine shells, and mud. It is about 8 miles in width, N. and 
S., inside Gap de la Ghevre. 

From the-Pointe du Van the south coast of the bay run- South shore, 
ning E. by N. 16 miles to the township of Douarnenez, is 
extremely indented ; it is steep-to with a very few outlying 
rocks, most of which show at low water. The most irapor- shoais. 
tant of these are Douellou, Danou, and Grand Grom, to the 
northward and eastward of a little inlet 5 miles from Pointe 
du Van. The first is the outermost, and is a half-mile off 
shore. 

The shore of the head of the bay, 6J miles in extent, Eastern shore. 


428 


DANGERS. 


trends northward from about 1 mile E. of Douarnenez, and 
is formed of three sandy beaches, separated from each other 
by points Trefentec and Lanvillau, whicli latter is 3f miles 
from Douarnenez, and is 1 mile in extent. At two-thirds of 
a mile from these beaches are depths of fathoms. 

Northern shore. The NE. shore runs WNW. and is 7 miles long, formed of 
high lands occasionally projecting out into the bay, sepa¬ 
rated by several small beaches. The shore then bends sud¬ 
denly to the south westward for 4 miles, terminating in the 
Cap de la Ghevre, on which is a semaphore. 

Basse vieiiie. The principal danger met in entering Douarnenez bay is 
the Basse Vieille, 2^ miles SW. ^ W. from Mencos, a rock 
always showing above water, touching the easternmost point 
of Cap de la Ghevre. It dries feet, and is marked by a 
black buoy on the southern edge. The entire shoal is 3 ca¬ 
bles in extent to the eastward and southward of the head 
that uncovers. 

jhlvre.^^^^ Off .La Ghevre cape, extending IJ miles to the SW., is 
the Chaussee of the same name. The sea breaks almost 
constantly on it, and the white water extends at times out 
to La Yieille; but in fine weather, or with the wind off the 
land, a vessel can pass at 1 mile from the point, with 
fathoms at low water. 

Basse Laye. Qf the Other shoals immediately to the eastward of the 
Ghaussee the outermost is the Basse Laye, covered by 1 foot 
of water, two-thirds of a mile S. of Mencos. 

Dangers in the The Other dangers are principally confined to the north- 
ern part of the bay, about 4 miles northeastward from the 
northern point of entrance. 

Pierre Profonde, the first, is a rock which never covers *, 
half a mile ENE. from it are Les Yerrbs, the northernmost 
head of which is also above water. These latter are two- 
thirds of a mile SSW. from Laber rock, just south of the 
large islet of the same name, not easily distinguishable 
from the main-land, and on the top of which is a guard-house. 
To the northward of Pierre Profonde are, successively, Le 
Taureau, which dries 5 feet, 3 cables from itj Basse Rip, 
half a mile beyond, covered by 5 fathoms; and, finally, 
NW. from Laber rock is a 3J-fiithom patch. 

Morgatanchor- Morgat anchoragc, in the HW. corner of Douarnenez bay, 
is to the south ward of the point of the same name; the depth 


DOUARNENEZ—TRISTAN ISLAND—LIGHT. 


429 


at 3 cables from shore, is to 0 fathoms, over sand. The 
best ranges for coming-to, are the guard house ou Bellec 
poiut, in the east, over Les V6rr^s rocks, and Grozoii stee¬ 
ple, which is quite lofty and black, in the northward, open 
to the right of Morgat point. Vessels hold on well, except 
with the wind to the southward of SW., when the sea 
quickly becomes very high. 

A little to the southward of these cross-bearings, be¬ 
tween Pierre Profonde and Saint-Ternot (or La Chaise) 
point, is where the French squadrons sometimes anchor. 

Ju^t inside the Cap de la Oh^vre, half a mile north of 
Mencos, is good anchorage in TAnse Saint-Nicolas, in 4 to 
7 fathoms, over sand. 

For anchoring in the open bay there will be found 13J 
fathoms water, with mud and rock bottom, on the meridian 
of the Pointe de la Jument, 2 miles westward of L4id6 
point; and 11 fathoms, mud bottom, on the line from Tris¬ 
tan island to Bellec point, X. by E. from the light. Far¬ 
ther to the eastward the bottom is rock. 

At 14 miles from Pointe du Van is the high point of Douamenez. 
L4id6, 11 miles ESB. of which is the village of Douarnenez. 

The shore in front of the town runs south for several hun¬ 
dred yards, and then off to the eastward, joining, at 1 mile 
distance, the beach of PAnse d’Arvechen, which extends 21 
miles X. by E. There is a little harbor, protected by a 
jetty extending 190 yards eastward from Rosineur point. As 
many as 500 small vessels fit out there for the fisheries. 

For vessels of heavy draught there is fair anchorage in 5 
fathoms water, over sand and mud, with Plouare steeple 
(ou a height 1 mile inland) bearing SSW., and Tristan 
island light WSW. 

The population of Douarnenez is about 5,500. Popniation. 

Tristan island is off the mouth of the small river of Poul- Tristan island, 
davi, which has entrances on either side of the island, 
practicable at high water by v^essels drawing l#f feet. The 
island is about 380 yards in extent, NNVV. and SSB., and 
lies 41 cables from Rosmeur point, on which is a signal- 
station. It is high and tolerably steep to^ depths of 12 feet 
being found 30 yards off'. 

On Tristan island is exhibited affixed white, dioptric, fourth- *Lat * 4 ^° 

order light, elevated 115 feet above sea-level. The tower, JS 


430 


ROSMEUR LIGHT—SHOALS. 


which IS round, with keeper^s dwelling attached, is 31 feet 
in height. The light is visible 10 miles in all directions ex¬ 
cept toward the southward to northwestward, in which di¬ 
rections the rays are intercepted by Leide point. 

Life-boat. A life-boat is stationed here. 

" extremity of the mole extending from Rosmeur 

point is a white iron post, showing, at an elevation of 23 
feet above sea-level, a fixed red, dioptric, fourth-order light, 
visible 5 miles. 

Semaphore. Qq Rosmeur point is also a signal-station, with white 
dwelling. The geographical number is B. R. S. L. 

H?rm?tage^^ ^ yards ESE. from Tristan island, and 1 cable from 

Rosmeur point, is the Rocher de THermitage, an islet, at 
60 yards off which are depths of 16 feet. Between it and 
the larger island are 14i feet over soft mud. 

A vessel of moderate size, caught near this end of the 
bay in a NW. blow, could, after passing Leid6 point at 1 
mile, steer for Tristan island as soon as the light-tower is 
seen to the right of Plouard steeple SE. by S., pass 330 
yards eastward of the island, and come-to li miles beyond, 
near the extremity of the mole, in 16 feet at lowest spring- 
tides. 

Shoals. About half a mile NE. by E. from Leid6 point is the Basse 

Meur, covered by 17 feet of water; midway between the 
latter and Tristan island, 3 cables from either, is the Basse 
Neuve, comprising two heads, on the shoalest of which is a 
depth of only SJ feet. Betvveen them and the Tete Saint- 
Pierre, 250 yards to the southwestward, is a channel 5 to 6 
fathoms deep, on the range of Plouare church, one-third 
way from Tristan island to the west point of entrance to 
Pouldavi river. 

Tides. It is high water, full and change, at Douarnenez at 3^ 34“. 

Ordinary springs rise 19 feet, neaps 133 

Directions. Douamenez bay is easy of access, and, on the approach 
of bad weather it is sometimes preferable to run in for Mor- 
gat anchorage or PAnse Saint-Mcolas to making Brest road¬ 
stead. The only important danger is Basse Vieille. The 
best range for entering and clearing the latter in the south¬ 
ward is Locrenan mountain (inland from the southern end 
of the head of the bay) a little open to the southward of 
Leide point. On advancing into the bay this mountain will 




431 


l’iroise. 

appear well cultivated, and the village on its side large and 
surrounded with trees. 

In hazy weather Plouare steeple is the most conspicuous 
landmark, and may be steered for E. J S., skirting the south 
shore at half a mile distance after passing Douellou and the 
other rocks in its vicinity. 

To avoid the Basse Jaune, off Pointe du Van, keep 
miles off' shore until half a mile east of the meridian of the 
point. Coming up through the Raz de Sein, distance is 
saved by passing south of it, with Brezellec point open to 
the northward of Pointe du Van; the former point may be 
safely approached to within one-fourth of a mile, increasing 
that distance to three-fourths of a mile to clear Douellou. 

The name of Iroise is given to the space comprised be¬ 
tween the Cap Sizun and the Chaussee de Sein in the S.; 
Ouessant and the islands between it and the main land in 
the N.; and the coast of the promontory separating Brest 
and Douarnenez bays in the E. This gulf, as it may be called, 
is 15 miles in extent N. and S. from the Chaussee des Pierres 
Noires to the Chaussee de Sein, and 14 miles E. and W. from 
Tonlinguet point to the meridian of the western extremity 
of the former Chaussee. The southern half of this large 
space is free of dangers, so that a vessel coming in from the 
westward, after sighting He de Sein, can head in E. for 
Douarnenez bay, with nothing to look out for except the 
shoals extending two-thirds mile to the northward of Tev- 
ennec light-tower. Farther N. the shoals commence at 7 
miles westward of Tonlinguet point. 

The land of the promontory separating the bays of Brest 
and Douarnenez is high and steep, and the western portion 
consists of three peninsulas, terminating, respectively, in 
the Cap de la Chevre, Tonlinguet point, and Pointe des 
Espagnols. 

From the Cap de la Chevre the seaward coast of this prom¬ 
ontory runs about N. ^ W. 4 miles, to the Pointe de Dinant, 
which is high, perpendicular on the N. side, and forms the 
southern extremity of the little bay of the same name. 
This coast is clear of dangers near shore, but at a little dis¬ 
tance out are three rocks, Le Bouc, Le Chevreau, and La 
Chevre, which remain awash at the highest spring-tides. 
The first bears NW. by W. J W. rather more than miles 


L’lroiae. 


Coast. 


Shoals. 


432 


DINANT BAY—TAS DE POIS. 


Anse de Di- 
nant. 


Anse de Pen- 
hir. 


Tas de Pois. 


To u 1 i n g u et 
point. 



from the western extreme of cape La Ohevre. The other 
two are respectively If miles SW. by W. J W., and 1 
mile WNW. f W. from the southern extremity of Dinant 
point. An islet, named Gu6neron, lies one-fourth mile out 
from the beach, with no passage inshore of it except for 
very small craft. About 2| miles from La Ohevre cape is 
the little headland of Lansrnarc’h. 

L’Anse de Dinant extends in If miles to the east-north¬ 
eastward to the low-water mark on the beach at its head. 
It is very regular in shape, the width being If miles from 
the southern point of entrance to the Pointe de Portzen in 
the NNW. The bottom is sand, with depths of 4f fathoms. 
There are a few rocks off Dinant point close inshore, and a 
small cluster that remain awash at 55 yards from Portzen 
point. The bay offers but few advantages to seamen, as 
the westerly swell is continually heaving in. 

At three-fourths mile from Portzen point is that of Ta- 
velle, to the westward of which is I’Anse de Penhir, a small 
bay extending in one-half mile to the northward, and 1 mile 
wide to the Tas de Pois, off Penhir point, which latter is 
quite high and cragged, and otherwise distinguishable by a 
signal-station and a battery. In the western part of the 
bay, 2 cables from the semaphore, the bottom is sand at 5 
fathoms, but in the eastern part it is rocky. The shelter is 
good from N. to W. winds, but in case of a shift to the 
southward the ship would be in danger. 

The Tas de Pois are four enormous rocks extending 7 
cables to the southwestward of Penhir point, and close 
alongside of which the water is very deep. There are 
among them several smaller rocks, of which La Fourche 
never covers, and is immediately inshore of the westernmost. 
Small vessels coasting along in a fog generally try to make 
them, because of their being so high and steep-to. At one- 
half mile ESB. J E. from the outermost is the Basse de Di¬ 
nant, covered by 8 feet. 

Between Penhir point and that of Toulinguet, If miles K 
by W. from it, the coast forms still another small bay, the 
northern half of which is bordered by a sand-beach. There 
is anchorage in 8J fathoms over sand, but the sea is almost 
always very heavy. Toulinguet point is steep and cliffy, 
about 125 feet high, and bordered by a ledge of sunken 


TOULINGUET LIGHT—SHOALS. 


433 


rocks running out ii long cable, only separated by a narrow 
channel, of 4J to 6 fathoms depth, from a large rocky shelf, 
called Le Toulinguet. 

On Toulinguet point is a square tower 39 feet high, with Toulinguet 
a dwelliiig attached, exhibiting, at an elevation ot 101 feet 50 ";^^^iong. 
above sea level, a, fixed red^ dioptric, fourth-order light, 
visible 7 miles. « 

A life-boat is stationed on the point, but is generally Life-boat, 
launched in Gamaret bay. 

The principal of the dangers in the Iroise are those ex- dangers in the 

• ^ Irois6« 

tending W. by S. from Toulinguet point; they border in the 

south the route of vessels entering Brest roadstead. There < 

is also another range of shoals forming an extension of the 

Tas de Pois in the SW. by W.; of these the Basse de I’lroise ^ ® 

is the outermost. It is a small plateau, the slioalest spot of 

which (at 4 fathoms) is in the NE. part, miles westward 

from the coast midway between Gap de la Chevre and Di- 

nan t point. 

The Basse du Lis, the head of which is covered by 5 feet Basse du Lis. 
of water, and marked by a red buoy anchored 160 yards 
westward of the rock, is about 3 cables in extent, and 4 
miles SW. by W. J W. of the Tas de Pois. Between it and 
the Basse de Plroise is a channel 2J miles wide and 23 
fathoms deep. 

At If miles ENB. from the Basse du Lis, and about the Basse Mene- 
same distance from the Tas de Pois, is the Basse M^uehom, 
which is three-fourths mile in extent NE. and SW., with 
three heads covered respectively by 13J, 23J, and 13f feet. 

At one-half mile NE. by E. from it is a C-fathom patch sur¬ 
rounded by depths of 9 to 15 fathoms, called Basse Poul- 
macote. 

Of the shoals off Toulinguet point, the outermost is La LaVandree. 
Vandree, 1 mile in extent ENE. and WSW., covered by 11 
fathoms except in the NE. extremity, where there is a little 
patch of only 6J feet. This latter, which is miles SE. by 
E. from Les Pierres Noires light, 6J miles WSW. J W. from 
Toulinguet, and 4| miles S. J W^ from Saint-Matthieu light, 
is marked by a red buoy off the north edge. It is just out¬ 
side the south edge of the visible sector of Les Capucius 
light. 

The Basse de PAstrolabe, covered by 27J feet, is three- 
28 N C 


434 


SHOALS—CURRENTS. 


fourths mile NE. by N. from the latter. It is just within 
the southern limit of visibility of Les Oapucins light. 

LeGoemaut. Le Go6mant, covered by 5 fathoms, is half a mile east 
from La Vandree. Its presence is almost always betrayed 
by eddies or tide-rips, especially when the wind is fresh. 

La Parqiiette. La Parquettc,* which uncovers in the early ebb, is 2 
miles ENE^ from La Vandree buoy. During neap-tides it 
remains awash. It can be skirted quite close in the north 
and the west, but at a short distance to the southward is a 
dangerous rock, and 160 yards east is another that uncovers j 
finally 3 cables east of it is the Basse de la Parquette, cov¬ 
ered by 61 feet. It should not be attempted to pass among 
these different heads, (except in small craft,) but between 
them and La Vandrbe is a channel 2 miles wide, and one 1J 
miles wide between them and PAstrolabe and le Goemant. 

LeTrepied. Le Trepicd is a little cluster of rocks, 2 miles ENE. from 
La Parquette, one head of which dries 10 feet. It is marked 
by a red buoy 85 yards to the northward. 

Le Lcnzaouen- Le Louzaouenuou shoal is awash at lowest springs j it is 
half a mile south of Le Trepied buoy, and IJ miles E. by N. 
from La Parquette. At 200 yards K. by W., and 300 yards 
S. by E. of it, are 3J and 3J fathom patches, respectively. 

LeCorbeau. At two-tliirds of a mile SE. from Le Trepied buoy is the 
rock of Le Corbeau, which uncovers 14J feet; two-thirds of 
a mile to the eastward of it is the Le Corbin or L6ac’h-bras, 
which always shows above water, and is three-fourths of a 
mile W. J S. from Le Toulinguet. 

Currents in the The tidal currents in the Iroise, when undisturbed by 
extraneous causes, are quite regular. In the centre of the 
space they have not much apparent strength, but their rapid¬ 
ity increases on approaching the openings of theOuessant 
channelsand the RazdeSein. Their varying force, in conse¬ 
quence of the influence of winds, renders the navigation of 
the Iroise difficult in thick weather, and under such cir¬ 
cumstances it is advisable to anchor when practicable. In 
general, the current of the flood sets north and that of the 
ebb south. 

Winds. In the Iroise SE. winds are accompanied by fine weather, 

* A stone tower-beacon of unfinished masonry is being built upon La 
Parquette. 



PASSES. 


435 


as are the easterly breezes in the evening. If a SW., west, or 
NW. wind haul to SSE. with rain, it betokens the approach 
of bad weather; it afterward comes out from south. If a 
SW. wind spring up gradually from a calm, bad weather is 
brewing, but may not be experienced for several days. 

Vessels coming from the Raz de Sein bound for Brest Passes among 
should make the following ranges as Orozon steeple ap.iroisT®*^ ® 
proaches Lansmarc’h point (NE. J E.). Coming from cape la 
Chevre, the course should be shaped WNW. for a vessel 
drawing 19 feet. 

To pass outside La Vandr^e, keep the eastern point of 
Beniguet island (2J miles NE. from Pierres Noires light) 
between the two Bossemen. If the red buoy be made, it 
may be passed at 3 cables either to starboard or to port. 

To pass between La Vandr^e and La Parquette, keepCou- 
quet light-tower open to the left of Penzers point, over Les 
Vieux Moines rocks. This range leads at 2 cables from La 
Parquette; to remain in mid-channel, keep the same light- 
tower over the left edge of Les Vieux Moines rocks. 

To pass between La Parquette and Louzaouennou shoal, 
keep Conquet steeple or Lochrist mill in line with Saint- 
Merzan pyramid on the edge of the cliff. 

Between the Basse Men^hom and the Basse du Lis is a 
passage If miles wide. Conquet and Saint-Matthieu stee¬ 
ples in line lead through in mid-channel. 

The pass of Le Corbeau is between that shoal and the Passage du 
three heads of Pont-Chou, 3 cables to the northeastward, 
and is fathoms deep. To enter it, steer to pass 50 yards 
to the eastward of the former, afterward passing one-quarter 
way between it and Le Corbin. Coming from the southward, 
seek the pass with Petit Minou light-tower over Le Corbin, 
which is the highest of the rocks off Le Touliuguet; when 
the right edge of the outermost of the Tas de Pois comes 
on with the right edge of Le P6len, keep the alignment, 

(astern,) or Bertheaume chateau may be kept in line (ahead) 
with a house that will be seen at the head of Bertheaume 
bay. The latter range is the more easily made and kept. 

The pass should only be entered with a steady breeze, as 
the constant westerly swell heaves on the rocks with the 
current. The bottom is rocky, and the anchors would not 


436 


PASSES. 


hold 5 pilots prefer the Toulinguet pass when the wind per¬ 
mits. 

p5it ifea^h Petit Leac’h runs to the northeastward, and 

is about 1 mile long, comprised between the black beacon of 
Petit Leac'h and two shoals adjoining it in the north, on one 
side, and Le Toulinguet, P61en, and intervening rocks, on 
the other. The depth is 8J fathoms, and the least width 
700 yards. Eoscanvel mill, (on the peninsula of Kelernn,) 
NE. by E., over the northernmost rock of Toulinguet point, 

* or the fort du Diable, over the same, lead through in mid¬ 

channel. The summit of the road to Paris, seen in the 
middle of the Goulet, or Porzic point barely shut in by 
Pointe de Oornouaille, may be taken. 

Coming from the southward, bring Petit Minou light-tower 
open to the right of Le Pelen, passing, afterward, 1 cable 
to the westward of the latter, to make the above align¬ 
ments. Coming from the westward,Touliuguet light-tower 
a little to the northward of the lower part of Toulinguet 
rocks, leads in clear to the northward of Flroise, Le Lis, 
and other shoals. 

Punning north and south, a vessel may pass 110 yards 
west of Le Corbin, between it and the Basse Pont-Chou. 
The currents are in the direction of the channel. 

T^fiu^uet^ The pass of Toulinguet is practicable for sailing-vessels 
bound in for Brest, with the wind between WSW. and SE., 
(through south,) and for those bound out, with the wind be¬ 
tween NW. and ESE., (through north.) It is generally pre¬ 
ferred to either of the preceding, because there is anchor¬ 
age in the little bay of Toulinguet in case of being be¬ 
calmed and set in by the heavy swell. In case of danger 
assistance would be promptly rendered by the life-boat or 
the guard-boat, warned from the signal-station, 1,300 yards 
southeastward of the light. The great danger in taking 
this channel is from the eddies, which are apt to catch a 
vessel’s bows and sheer her inshore. Seamen in the vicin¬ 
ity also say that the sands near the shore are shifting, and 
a boat’s crew might be drowned in trying to land. 

The channel is between Le Toulinguet rock and the ledge 
extending from the point of that name, and in one place is 
only 500 yards wide, with depths of 4i fathoms and over. 
Coming from the southward and westward to take this 


CAMARET BAY. 


437 


pass, Le P61en must be avoided by keepiug Pen-hir point 
nothing to the eastward of N. 87^ E. until about 7 cables 
from it, after which follow the coast and pass one-quarter 
way between Toulinguet rock and point. 

At 1 cable westward of Toulinguet point is a red tower 
beacon of finished masonry, surmounted by a staff fii feet 
high, carrying a ball, also painted red. This beacon is on 
La Louve rock, 55 yards S. by W. of which is another rock 
awash at low water. 

Coming from the southward, keep Petit Minou light oi)en 
to the left of that of Toulinguet. 

It becalmed and set in by the swell, drop anchor in 8 fath¬ 
oms, at 3 or 4 cables ESE. from Le Toulinguet rock. Dur¬ 
ing the first two hours of both flood and ebb the currents 
run very strong NE. and SW. 

Steamers generally take the pass between Le Pelen and Pass between 

xrr^T X 1 Le Pelen and Le 

Le loulinguet rocks, it being halt a mile wide and with few TouUngaet. 
turnings. The Cap de la Ohevre touching the east edge of 
the outer rock of the Tas de Pois, leads through it. Com¬ 
ing from the southward, pass 3 cables eastward of Le Pelen, 
steering north, or making the range given. When Le Cor¬ 
bin bears WSW. everything is cleared. Coming from the 
northward, when the south end of Dinant beach is seen be¬ 
tween the innermost and second of the Tas de Pois, the 
course may be shaped WSW. to clear Meuehom and the 
other shoals, or to the southward with Petit Minou light- 
tower astern, a little to the left of that of Toulinguet. 

From Toulinguet to Grand Gouin point, miles 
northeastward of it, the coast is steep-to, and forms a small 
inlet, called Portz Naye, open to the northward, where boats 
can land. 

The bay of Camaret, formed between Grand Gouin and Anse de Cama- 
Les Capucins points, is 2 miles wide at the entrance, NNE. 
and SSW., and extends in 1 mile to the south-southeast¬ 
ward, with depths of 51 to 11 fathoms over sand, mud, and 
clay. It affords a lee from all winds except those from the 
N. and NW., which former blow very hard and frequently 
during the equinoxes and in the winter. In the fine season 
the prevailing winds are NW., NE. and SE. There are nu¬ 
merous batteries along the shore. 


438 


CAMARET. 


Catnaret. 

Port. 


Rocket-appara 

ttis. 

Directions. 


Tides. 

Points des Ca- 
pucins. 


In the SW. comer of the bay, two-thirds of a mile from 
Grand Gouin point, is the village of Camaret, inhabited 
mainly by fishermen and frequented by coasters. The pop¬ 
ulation of the place is about 1,500, and there is a compara¬ 
tively extensive coasting-trade carried on, the exports con¬ 
sisting chiefly of potatoes and fish, and the imports of wood, 
salt, pit-coal, &c. The port is formed by a tongue of laud 
several yards above high water, north of the village, 
projecting about 600 yards to the east-southeastward, on 
the extremity of which are a fort and a square, red tower, 
called the chateau, with ditch and drawbridge. Near them, 
in the west-northwestward, is the chapel of Notre Dame de 
Roch Madou. 

There is a rocket-apparatus at Camaret for sending a line 
to vessels aground. Its range is over 1,000 yards. 

Vessels entering Camaret bay may double Grand Gouin 
point at IJ cables, and afterward anchor in 4J to fii fath¬ 
oms water, with that point bearing WNW., and the chateau 
SW., or with Saiut-Matthieu and Grand Gouin points in 
line, and Camaret church showing between the chateau and 
the chapel. There is a rocky patch 4 cables NE. by E. of 
the chateau, and 3 cables WNW. of Pointe Sainte-Barbe, (in 
the SE. corner of the bay;) the depth over it is 6 fathoms, 
but it should be avoided in anchoring. 

Four chains have been stretched on the bottom in the 
bay. They are buoyed and will be caught by the anchors 
in case of dragging in a NW. gale. Vessels should come-to 
to the westward of them. There is a mooring-buoy east¬ 
ward of the mole. 

To enter the port steer SE. two-thirds mile after doubling 
Grand Gouin point, and then steer round the chateau. 

Vessels driven ashore in a NW. gale should try to strike 
in the port, or in the middle of Stanc-ar-pratt or Vioc-Wen 
beaches, or near the southern extremity of Tres-rouss, the 
largest beach. 

It is high water, full and change, at 3^ 36“. Ordinary 
springs rise 19 feet, neaps 13f feet. 

From Pointe Sainte-Barbe, which is one-half mile E. by 
N. from the mole of Camaret, the eastern shore of the bay, 
or west coast of K^lernn peninsula, is steep-to and runs in 
a general direction of N. by W. 2 miles, to the Pointe des 


GOULET DE BREST. 


439 


Oapucins, which is high and crowned by a battery, and is 
the southern point of entrance to the Goulet de Brest. 

On this point is exhibited from the keeper’s dwelling, j^capudns^iight: 
W'hich is 17 feet high, a fixed white^ dioptric, fourth-order 34' 

light, elevated 207 feet above sea-level, visible 10 miles 
when between the bearings of N. 80^ E. and N. 60° E. This 
sector illuminates the clear space between Yandr^e, Par- 
quette, and Trepied shoals on the south side, and Beuzec 
shoal on the north. A ray of light is also thrown to the 
northward and westward on Les Fillettes in the Goulet. 

The Goulet de Brest, leading into Brest roadstead, 
formed by the peninsula of Kt^lernn in the southward, and 
the coast between Petit Minou and Portzic points in the 
northward. It is somewhat over 3 miles in length and a 
little less than 1 mile in width in the narrowest part, which 
is between Pointe Robert and Fort du Delec. The general 
direction of the Goulet is NE. by E. i E. and SW. by W. i 
W., and the chain of rocks and shoals, extending in half its 
length from the outer entrance, runs parallel to the shores. 

The southern shore of the Goulet from Pointe des Capu- Gouiet^^^ 
cins to Pointe des Espagnols, the northern extremity of 
Kelernn peninsula, is 2i miles in length, convex, and some¬ 
what broken by inlets and points. Due west, 55 yards from 
Oapucins point is a large rock of the same name, like a tur¬ 
tle’s back. Depths of 4 fathoms are found close to the outer 
edge. 

At 3 cables NNE. from this rock is Kerviniou point, 
crowned by a battery, and 4 cables farther is the Fort de 
Cornouailles, the largest on this shore. About NE. by E., 7 
cables from the latter, is Pointe Robert, at the foot of which 
is also a battery; and finally a short mile, E. by N., from 
the last is the Pointe des Espagnols, with a battery almost 
skirting the water’s edge. 

The E. coast of Kelernn peninsula then turns abruptly to 
S. by W. 

The northern shore of the Goulet runs 34 miles ENE. North shore of 

- T-» • T the Goulet. 

from Pointe du Petit Minou to Portzic point. 

On a rock off Petit Minou point, separated from it at high 
water, is a circular tower, 79 feet high, showing, at an ele* x. Mong. 
vation of 105 feet above sea-level, a fixed white^ dioptric, 
third-order light, visible 14 miles. This and Portzic light 


440 


PORTZIC LIGHT. 


in line lead to the entrance of the Goulet, clear of all shoals. 
At 220 yards, E. by N., of the fort on Petit Minou point, 
is a semaphore, and a little less than 1 mile farther is the 
large fort of Mengam, which can be seen of a very dark 
night. About three-fourths mile beyond, in the same ap¬ 
proximate direction, is D61ec fort, right on the shore, with 
extensive barracks inside. To the eastward of this work 
the coast forms a sandy bay, 500 yards wide, with depths 
of 13 feet, separated by the Pointe de N6vent (sometimes 
called Vieux Delec from the old fort on it) from the adja¬ 
cent bay of Sainte-Anne. Nevent point is narrow and per¬ 
pendicular. Sainte-Anne bay, which is four-fifths mile 
wide, terminates in the eastward in Portzic point; the 
bottom is sand, except in the eastern part, and the depths 
over 4 fathoms to within 700 yards of the shore; but it is a 
poor place to anchor, as it is not sheltered from the sea, 
and the currents of both flood and ebb set in it, rendering it 
very hard to work out. The strength of the ebb-tide from 
the roads bears on Nevent and Delec points, and it is fre¬ 
quently necessary to anchor, when the breeze falls light, to 
prevent being drifted upon them. The same applies to Petit 
Minou point. 

Portzic light: On Portzic point is an octagonal tower, 108 feet in height, 
x. ;^ong. 40 32'from which is exhibited a white fixed and fiash^ dioptric, 
second-order light, elevated 184 feet above sea-level, visible 
17 miles. The flashes occur at intervals of 3 minutes^ being 
preceded and followed by short eclipses, which do not ap¬ 
pear total within 8 miles. 

Between the fort and light-tower on Portzic point is a 
. signal-station. 

The rocks do not extend far from the point, but it should 
be given a berth of at least 150 yards. 

The coast here trends to the northeastward very nearly 
2 miles to the mouth of the Penfeld river, and is bordered 
by a sand-bank averaging 200 yards in extent from the 
shore. 

^Dangers in the The dangers in the Goulet, with the exception of the 
Roche Saiut-Jacques, which lies 100 yards from the shore, 
midway between Petit Minou point and Mengam fort, are 
confined to mid-channel, and form a chain a little less than 
g^^oche Men-^ long, extending SW. from Mengam rock, which is 


SHOALS IN THE GOULET. 


441 


very nearly abreast of the large fort of the same name. 
This rock is marked by a tower-beacon painted with six 
horizontal stripes, black and white alternately. Its bearings 
are Portzic light, NE. f E., and Petit Minou light, W. J S. 
It cannot easily be made out of a dark night, but Mengam 
fort will probably be distinguished, and when it bears 
NW. J W. the rock is passed. The channel between the 
beacon and Oornouailles fort is 950 yards wide. 

The outermost rock in the chain is the Plateau des Eil- 
lettes, 3 cables in extent E. and W., and marked by a black 
and red buoy (horizontal stripes) anchored on the western 
edge. The depth over the eastern part of the plateau is 13 
feet at lowest water, but in the western part are two heads? 
which dry 4 and 5 feet respectively. The bearings of the 
latter are: the top of Lieval rock (otf the west coast of 
K^lernn peninsula) over the western part of the large rock 
of Oapucins, SSE. J E. j the tower on Mengam rock on with 
the northernmost crevasse of Portzic point; or the Rocher 
de Plougastel, a greenish-gray mass seen over the land far 
away to the eastward, touching Batterie Robert, ENE. J E. 

In beating up, to pass to the westward of Les Fillettes, 
keep Lieval rock well open to the right of Capucins rock. 
At night the ray of light thrown on it from Capucins point 
warns a vessel of its proximity. 

At 1 cable NE. of the extremity of Les Fillettes plateau 
is a small spot covered by 26 feet at low water, and 1 cable 
farther is the Basse Goudron, 160 yards in extent NE. and 
SW. This bank has two heads, the one in the SW. part 
being covered by only 2 feet, and the other by 5 feet of 
water. Between the two is a depth of 7 fathoms. It is 
midwaj^ between Mengam rock and Les Fillettes, and a 
very little to the southeastward of the line joining the two. 
Its ranges are: Oormorandiere rock (NE. of Espagnols 
point) touching Pointe Robert, ENE. J E.; and Keraudren 
mill (seen at the head of Gamaret bay) touching the west¬ 
ern edge of Capucins rock; or the parapet of Mengam fort 
on with a little house at the head of the small inlet to the 
eastward of that fort. 

To pass between Basse Goudron and Les Fillettes keep a 
house on Tremet point (W. coast of K^lernn peninsula) visi¬ 
ble to the eastward of Capucins light-tower, or the western 


Les Fillettes. 


» 


Basse Goudron. 


442 


DANGERS—TIDES. 


wall of Meugam fort end on. To pass between it and Men- 
gam rock, 3J cables northeastward, keep the last little gray 
house, at the head of Mengain inlet, touching the right side 
of the fort, or Keraudren mill and another near it between 
Capucins point and rock. The beacon should not be ap¬ 
proached nearer than 110 yards in the westward. 

Basse Her* Just outside the entrance to the Goulet, 1 mile SSW. of 
Petit Minou light, is the Basse Hermine, a rocky patch 
not to be avoided in ordinary weather, the depth over it be¬ 
ing 9 fathoms; but in very heavy weather it would be well 
to steer clear of it. The depths to the southeastward are 
12 fathoms and to the northwestward 24 fathoms. Portzic 
light-tower over Mengam rock beacon leads S., and Plou- 
gastel steeple (seen over the land east of the roadstead) on 
with Pointe Eobert, N. of it. 

There is also a 7-fathom patch 4 cables to the southwest- 
ward of Les Fillettes buoy, on the range of the latter and 
Mengam rock. 

Caution. Beating in, with a fair tide, do not pass less than 100 

yards to leeward of any shoal, unless the breeze be strong 
and steady. 

CUiFr^entsin the The tidal Currents run strongly in and out through the 
Goulet, attaining a speed of 3 knots during springs. 

Flood-tide. The Current of the flood-tide begins to make in front of 
Bertheaume bay 1 hour before low water. At IJ miles 
south of Pointe du Minou it lasts 5 hours, from the first 
hour of rise to slack water. In Sainte-Anne bay, during 
the first two hours, the current follows the windings of the 
coast, after which an eddy makes in the opposite direction, 
but only to the northward of the line joining Portzic and 
Nevent points. Along the shore of Kelernn peninsula, 
from Grand Gouin point to Pointe des Espagnols, the cur¬ 
rent of the flood lasts 9 hours, from low water, and during 
springs, with westerly winds, the current is always setting 
in past Pointe Eobert. 

Ebb-tide. . Abreast of Bertheaume bay the current of the ebb is first 
felt 1 hour after high water. Between Bertheaume and 
Grand Minou points, after 2i hours of fall, an eddy makes 
to the eastward, round the head of the bay, as far as the 
latter point, where it branches off and joins the general 
current outside. This counter-current is only felt to the 


BERTHEAUME BAY. 


443 


northward of the range of the Kocher de Plougastel open¬ 
ing from Petit Miuoii point. At miles south of the lat¬ 
ter point the current of the ebb continues to ran for 7 hours, 
from slack-water flood to 1 hour after low water. Between 
Petit Minou and Delec points, at balf-ebb, an eddy makes 
to the eastward, extending 2 cables from shore. In Sainte- 
Anne bay the current sets right on N6veut point. Between 
Grand Gouiu and Espagnols points the duration of the 
current of the ebb is 3 hours, commencing after the third 
hour of fall. 

At 1,030 yards west from Petit Minou point is that of ^ 1*0 du 

Grand Minou, which is of no importance in navigation, and 
is often called simply Minou point. A large rock lies imme¬ 
diately off it, which may be approached to 1 cable by the 
largest vessels. The point is fortified, and a short distance 
in the northwestward is the large fort of Toulbroc’h. 

The coast from here runs into the northwestward, and, 
bending back to the southward to Beriheaume point, 
miles west of Grand Minou, forms Bertheaume bay. The 
eastern shore is steep to and rocky, but the N. and NW. 
part of the bay is sandy and shoaler, the 5-fathom line be¬ 
ing from one-half to two-thirds of a mile from the beach. 
Immediately off Bertheaume point is an islet, on which 
stands the chateau of that name, which is occasionally used 
in ranges. The bay extends in 1 mile, and afforded anchor¬ 
age to French squadrons during their last war. The depths 
are 7 to 9 fathoms, over sand principally. The Basse Ma- 
thurin, a rocky patch, 1 cable in diameter, covered by 6 
fathoms of water, is 4 cables from the NE. shore, and 
miles ENE. J E. from the chateau. At 300 yards NE. from 
the chateau are 3 rocks, of which the innermost remains 
awash at high tide of ordinary springs. From there ex¬ 
tends the beach, which, with a few rocky ledges, forms the 
head of the bay. Vessels sometimes anchor there for shel¬ 
ter from northerly winds; the favorite ground is east of 
the chateau. 

At two-thirds mile SW. from Bertheaume point is that of 
Creac’hmeur, recognizable by its extensive fort, and a 
semaphore one-fourth mile to the eastward. The coast be¬ 
tween these two points curves inward somewhat and is 
fringed with rocks. The 5-fathom line follows the curve of 


444 


SAINT-MATTHIEU POINT—LIGHT. 


the shore at a distance nowhere greater than 250 yards, hut 
at one-quarter mile east of Ordac’hmeur fort is a 4i-fathom 
patch surrounded by depths of 6 fathoms, over mud. 

Les Respects. The coast from this headland runs miles, in a general 
direction of west, to Pointe Saint-Matthieu, and is clear of 
dangers with the exception of Les Rospects, four large rocks 
always showing above water, extending 3 cables S. by W. 
from the shore 4 cables east of Saint-Matthieu. The outer¬ 
most of these rocks should not be approached nearer than 
3 cables in the southward, as a sunken rock lies about 350 
yards from it, with depths of 3L fathoms just outside. 

Landmarks. A short distance eastward from Les Rospects is the Pyra- 
mide du Coq, on the edge of the cliff, and one-half mile 
farther is the fort of Saint-Merzan; inland of them are the 
Pignons de Keravel, (2 white pyramids,) and still farther 
the church and the mill of Lochrist. 

Pointe Saint- Salnt-Matthleu point, the NW. extremity of the opening 
Matthieu. Brest Narrows, is 6^ miles N. 64° W. from Toulinguet 

point, the SE. extremity of the same. It is not very high, 
but recognizable by the light-tower, a ruined abbey, a 
semaphore a little to the eastward, and the white steeple of 
Le Oonquet, which is nearly 2 miles north, but is seen in 
clear weather 6 miles outside Les Pierres Noires. 

Saint-Matthieu The light-tower is circular, with enlarged base, and is 82 
19^50'' N.‘; long, feet high. The light, which is exhibited at an elevation of 
177 feet above sea-level, is white, revolving every half minute. 
The illuminating apparatus is dioptric, of the second order. 
Range of visibility, 18 miles. The eclipses do not appear 
total within 8 miles. 

Signals. Storm and weather signals are made from Saint-Matthieu 

point. Geographical number of station, B. G. N. W. 

vieux Moines. Les Vieux Moines, a cluster of rocks 300 yards in extent, 
uncovered during ordinary tides, lie SS W. of Saint-Matthieu 
point, the outside edge being half a mile from it. Three 
and a half fathoms can be carried between them and the 
land. 

LeCoq. To the southward of the coast between Saint-Matthieu 

and Grand Minou points are two rocks which are rather 
dangerous to passing vessels. The farther to the westward 
is Le Coq, which dries 4J feet at lowest springs, and which 
is marked by a black buoy 60 yards from the eastern edge. 


BREST ROADS. 


445 


It is nearly two-thirds of a mile from shore on the following 
ranges: the Pignons de Keravel in line with the white pyr¬ 
amid on the edge of the cliff, in the N W.; and Bertheaume 
chateau over the foot of Oreac’hmear point. 

The SW. edge of Beuigiiet island open a little to the left 
of Les Bospects leads clear to the westward, and B6niguet 
shut in by Saint-Matthieu point to the eastward of Le Coq. 

Or the x)yramid on the cliff* open to the right or left of the 
Pignons, leads to the westward or eastward of the shoal. 

Coming in from seaward, when Bertheaume castle opens 
well from the land the danger is passed. 

At li miles east of Le Coq is the Basse Beuzec, which Basse Beuzec. 
iffateau is 3 cables in extent NE. and SW., and the middle 
of which is 5J feet below lowest springs. Just east of that 
shoalest spot is a black and red buoy, which must be given 
a berth of 400 yards by large vessels. The ranges are: the 
left side of Bertheaume chateau just touching the point 
north of it; Saint-Matthieu light-tower on with the old 
semaphore. The shoal is about 2 cables to the northwest¬ 
ward of the range of Petit Minou and Portzic lights. 

The extensive sheet of water forming the roadstead or Brest road- 
liarbor of Brest may be divided into two parts: the road¬ 
stead proper in the north, and the second roadstead, or 
Chateaulin river, in the south. The line dividing these two 
parts is that joining ITle Ronde and the Pointe de Lanveoc, 
which are IJ miles apart, bearing almost exactly north and 
south from each other. 

The roadstead proper is about 4J miles in extent, north 
and south, and east and west, with quite regular depths, 
and but few banks excepting those bordering the shores in 
the NE. and SW. portions. Two rivers empty into it; the 
Penfeld, on the north shore, which forms the jport militaire 
of Brest, and the Elorn, or Landerneau, in the NE. part. 

On the shores of the latter is the town of Landerneau, about 
30 miles up; PAuse de Kerhuon on the right bank, 5 miles 
from Brest, is the great naval timber depot. 

The northern shore of the roadstead runs 2 miles in a 
northeasterly direction, from Portzic point to the mouth of 
the Penfeld, 600 yards east of which is the Port Marchand, 
at the western entrance to which are two lights. 


446 


BANKS IN THE ROADS. 


2 ^^ 42 '' northernmost light at the end of a mole extending 

H"’ (South shore, is fijced green^ dioptric, of the fourth order, 

light.) The other, shown from the end of a pier running parallel to 

the shore, is fixed red^ elevated 33 feet above sea-level. 
Both are visible 7 miles, exhibited from white iron towers, 
38 feet high, 235 yards apart. 

Fog bell. During fogs a bell is sounded at the southernmost tower j 

14 strokes are given at intervals of 1 second j then, 6 sec¬ 
onds afterward, 1 double stroke; and after another pause 
of 6 seconds, 14 strokes again, and so on. 

From a battery on the west side of the entrance to the 
Penfeld, is exhibited a green lamp at night. The battery 
takes the name of Fer a Cheval, from its shape. 

Marc°^ de Saint- From the westem entrance to the basin to point Sainte- 
Barbe, the north side of entrance to the Landerneau river, 
the distance is 3^ miles. The point is rather low, aud rec¬ 
ognizable by a white wall extending to the end; the inter¬ 
vening coast is irregular, and bordered by the Banc de Saint- 
Marc, which mud aud clay bank is covered by 2 to 6 feet of 
water, and extends 1 mile southward, and borders in the 
north the river channel, which is straight and quite deep, 
but very narrow. 

Banc du Cor- This channel is limited in the S. by another mud-bank, 
which skirts the E. coast to a distance of two-thirds mile, 
from Corbeau point to the entrance of the river proper. It 
also extends along the coast southward of the latter point. 

The 3f-fathom line off this bank is approximately on the 
range of Lanv4oc fort, touching the W. side of He Ronde. 
A small projection of the bank runs out 4 cables to the 
westward of this range, in the direction of La Oormorau- 
diere, open to the left of Pointe Robert. 

The Pointe de I’Armorique is the southern extremity of 
the eastern shore of the Rade de Brest. The Banc du Oor- 
beaii terminates there, and He Ronde, 2 cables in the south- 
westward, may be approached to within 400 yards. On 
the point stands the fort of the same name. 

piougastei. A little over 4 miles to the northeastward of the Pointe 
de I'Armorique is the steeple of Piougastei, and, 1 mile 
WNW. of the latter, the Rocher de Piougastei, both of 
which landmarks are visible from outside the Goulet. 

Western shore. The westeru shore of the roadstead comprises the eastern 


ANSE DU FRET—DANGERS. 


447 


shore of K^lernn peninsula, which, after running 3 miles to 
the S. by W., bends to the eastward and northeastward, 
terminating in He Longue, on the extremity of which is a 
fort. The bay inclosed by this curving coast is 2J miles 
wide between the two points of entrance, but it is very 
shallow, there being but one navigable channel in it leading 
to Pile de Treberon. 

To the southeastward of He Longue, which is a little over 
1 mile in length, and about 3 cables in width, is PAnse du 
Fret, which is IJ miles wide to the Pointe de Lanv^oc, and 
extends in to the south westward IJ miles. Depths of 2 to 3 
fathoms, over mud and clay, are found inside the line joining 
the extremities. Immediately outside are the 6 and 7 
fathom depths of the roadstead, bottom of sand and mud. 

There are two banks in this little bay which should be 
avoided, being covered by not more than 6 or 7 feet. They 
are in the NW. and SE. parts, with a channel of 4J cables 
width between them, on the range of Corbeau fort, touch¬ 
ing the lelt side of He Konde. 

There are three red buoys anchored, respectively, at 3 Distance- 
cables northward of He Longue, 5 cables from Lanveoc, 
and 2 cables from Penarvir. They do not mark sunken 
rocks, but simply a stretch of 3J miles for trials of speed. 

The only dangers in the roadstead that a vessel of ordi- Dangers in the 

. 1 n n ■, . Eade du Brest. 

nary size need avoid are far from her course to Brest. 

At 375 yards NE. from Pointe des Espagnols is La Oor-^.Da Cormoran- 
morandiere,arock which remains awash at ordinary springs. 

Close to it, N. by E. and S. by W., are a couple of small 
rocks which also uncover. The passage inshore is 1 cable 
wide, and deep enough for the largest vessels, but the tidal 
currents are very rapid in it. The course through is SSE. 
and NNW., keeping one-third way from the rock to the 
land, to avoid a 1-foot patch well inshore. 

The Basse Fortunee is not a dangerous spot, being cov- Basse Fortu- 
ered by 7 fathoms. It is one-half mile, NW. by N., from“‘'®‘ 
the fort on the extremity of He Longue, just inside the 
line from that fort to the Pointe des Espagnols. 

La Plate rock is between the latter shoal and the extrem- La Plate, 
ity of He Longue, and dries 11 feet. It is out of vessels’ 
way, but should be looked out for; the French ship Du 


448 


DANGERS IN THE ROADS. 


GuescUn touched there some time ago. It is almost con¬ 
nected with the main-land by a ledge. 

Basse ciu Ee- Basse du Reiiard, CO Veered by only 9J feet at low- 

aru. ' . . . , 

water, is a dangerous spot for vessels beating about in the 
roadstead. It is marked by a square red and black buoy, 
and lies three-fourths of a mile WXW. from He Ronde, 
on the following ranges : Le Chat mill (the highest in I’Anse 
du Fret) on with the SE. shore of He Longue j Delec fort 
(northern shore of the Goulet) midway between Cormoran- 
diere rock and Espagnols point. 

Vessels bound for the Chateaulin river will avoid this 
shoal by remaining to the southward of .the alignment of 
D^lec fort and Espagnols point, or by keeping N6vent point 
midway between La Cormorandiere and the land. 

To clear it in the N. do not let Delec fort open to the 
southward of La Cormorandiere. 

Basse de iTie The Basse de rile Ronde, covered by 1| fathoms, and 
marked by a red and black can-buoy, is 500 yards N W. from 
He Ronde, and W. of the northern extremity of PArmori- 
que point. Its ranges are: the southern extreme of the 
latter point on with the little point a half-mile to the east¬ 
ward, or on with the right edge of the lies du Bindej Lan- 
veoc mill open a little to the right of the batteries under 
and to the right of Lanveoc fort. 

Bauc de Saint- The Banc de Saint-Pierre, bottom of rock, covered by 7 
to 9 fathoms water, except in three places, lies E. and W., 
on the parallel of Portzic point j it is IJ miles long with a 
breadth of not more than 4 cables, N. and S. Its edges.are 
buoyed and a vessel in taking up a berth should avoid it, 
as the anchors would not hold. Its limits are: in the E. 
Saint-Sauveur steeple (in Recouvrance) on with the mast of 
the Observatoire des Sieves; in the W. Saint-Pierre de 
Guilbignon steeple (which is square and white, miles 
of Portzic point) over the Batterie de Sept. There are three 
shoaler spots on the bank, which pilots avoid in conning 
large ships. They are as follows : 

Basse Penou- The westemuiost, Basse PenoupMe, covered by 28| feet, 
is on the range of the first of three houses to the right of 
Mengam fort, on with the point seen just to the left of 
D61ec fort, and, in the northward, Brest church steeple 
touching the left edge of the Tour de Cesar (small, in the 


SHOALS—TIDES. 


449 


middle of the chateau), or, in the southward, Orozou church- 
tower touching the east angle of He Longue fort. 

The second, Basse Saint-Pierre, covered by 5 fathoms, is pie?®!® 

1 cable from the former, on the same E. and W. range, and 
with the masting-sheers on with the Tour de Cdsar. 

The third, called Basse Leclerc, is covered by fathoms, Leciero. 
and is a short mile eastward of the latter on the same 
range, and just S. of the NE. buoy. Its cross-range is 
Saint-Sauveur steeple on with the observatory mast. 

There are four small banks to the northward and west- other ehoais. 
ward of the Banc de Saint-Pierre, the least depth over them 
being 3f fathoms. One is a half-mile ENE. from Portzic 
point. Mengam fort over the fort on Portzic point leads 
100 yards to the southward of it. Two others farther N. 
are E. and W. of each other and of the mole of Quatre 
Pompes. Brest church-steeple on with the Tour de Cdsar 
leads between them. Large vessels intending to anchor 
outside the mooring-buoys should keep Mengam fort a little 
open to the southward of Portzic point to clear all these 
shoals. 

It is high water, full and change, at Brest at 4^ 46“. Or- 
dinary springs rise 19 feet, neaps 13f feet. Equinoctial 
tides have risen 27f feet. 

During the first two hours of flood-tide in Brest roads Tidal currents, 
the current runs from the Goulet toward the mouth of Flood-tide. 
Landerneau river, but afterward bearing full on Corbeau 
point, it divides into two branches, one of which enters the 
river, while the other sets to the southward round He Ronde j 
with Petit Minou light open of La Cormorandi^re, the north¬ 
easterly set will be felt off Corbeau point. When Petit 
Minou point comes in range with that rock the ship will be 
carried to the SE., south, and SW. as she advances to the 
southward. After rounding He Eonde this current follows 
the general direction of the stream of Ohateaulin river, about 
on the range of Xevent aud Espagnols points. 

A branch of the flood-tide sets to the southeastward in¬ 
shore of La Cormorandi^re, which also divides, the larger 
portion flowing into the Ohateaulin river. The other, strik¬ 
ing the extremity of He Longue, flows into the Anse du Fret 
and the Bale de Eoscanvel. 

Between the Goulet and Landerneau river, south of Saint- 
29 N C 


450 


T IDES—BUOYS—LAZARETTO. 


Ebb-tide. 


Guard-boat. 


Mooring-buoys. 


Compass s t a - 
tion. 

Qua r a n t i n e 
ground. 


Anchora g e 
the Lazaretto. 


Pierre bank, the current of the flood lasts 9 hours, from the 
moment of low water to the half-ebb. On the bank the cur¬ 
rent runs regularly 6 hours to the eastward. North of the 
bank, in the anchorage, the current of the flood lasts 6 hours 
south of the alignment of Petit Minou and Portzic points, 
but only 3 hours north of that range. After 3 hours’ rise an 
eddy current sets to the westward and south westward along 
the shore to Portzic point. 

During neaps the currents north of Saint-Pierre bank are 
very feeble; slack water often lasts 4 and 5 hours. 

Between He Eonde and the mouth of the Landerneau the 
current of the ebb is not felt. On the Banc de Saint-Pierre, 
after turning through north and NW. it sets west for 4 or 5 
hours, with little strength generally. 

The guard-boat remains at anchor ofl:’ the entrance to 
man-of-war harbor, and flies a white and blue cornet at the 
mast-head. 

The mooring-buoys for men-of-war are 1 mile eastward of 
Portzic point, and extend IJ miles ofl* shore. In the east¬ 
ward they extend to south of the Port Marchaud light-tow¬ 
ers. They are anchored 300 yards apart, and it is forbidden 
for vessels to take a permanent berth to the northward of 
them. No. 14, the westernmost, 1,100 yards east of Quatre 
Pompes, is reserved for the ocean steamers. 

The compass-buoys are off Lauberlac’h bay, 1 mile to the 
eastward of He Eonde, in 6^ fathoms water. 

The quarantine ground is in Eoscanvel bay. The ocean 
steamers come-to 1 mile E. by S. of La Cormorandibre. The 
bottom throughout the bay is mud. The ranges of the an¬ 
chorage (8J fathoms over mud and clay) are Portzic light 
over La Oormorandiere, and Lanv^oc fort opening from He 
Longue. 

To go from this anchorage to that of the Lazaretto, keep 
Kelernn mill (at the head of the bay) on with the northern 
extremity of the structures on Pile aux Morts, (the SW. 
island.) The channel is 1 mile long and 400 yards wide, 
with depths of 5 to 8 fathoms over soft mud. Oome-to on the 
leading range, with Le Chat mill on with the south end of 
Tr6b6ron island, and the extremity of He Longue on with 
the northern end. On Tr^beron island is the powder-maga- 


ANCHORAGE—DIRECTIONS. 


451 


zioe. On Pile aux Morts is the Lazaretto. Between the 
two is a mooring-buoy. 

The anchorage of Brest roads is comprised between the 
lollowing ranges: For the northern limit, the tower-beacon 
Oil Mengam rock on with Portzic point; the southern, Men- 
gam fort opening from Portzic point; the eastern, Saiut- 
Sauveur steeple on with the flag-staff on the point of the 
Parc an Due, (a large coal-yard;) the western, the steeple 
of Saint-Pierre ofl’ the left side of the Batterie de Sept. For 
large vessels the best range is Delec fort on with Portzic 
point. 

The pilots’ licenses include from the Raz de Sein to Ones- Pilots, 
sant island and outside Le Four. They can take vessels as 
far as Plougastel passage in the Landerneau river, and up 
all the rivers of the Ohateaulin roads. Vessels of less than 
80 tons burden are not compelled to take a pilot. 

Directions for making Ouessant are given page 481; for Approaching 
avoiding the Ohaussbe de Sein, page 420; for the passage 
the Raz de Sein, page 424. 

In the day-time with clear weather the navigation of the directions. 
Iroise is simple enough. Vessels coming from the south¬ 
ward, after doubling the Ohauss^e de Sein should steer NE. 
for Saint-Matthieu point to make the alignment of Petit 
Mi noil and Portzic lights, leading to the Goulet. Coming 
from the Raz de Sein, the course may be shaped to take 
one of the passages between the shoals off Toulinguet point, 

(directions given page 435 ;) or the vessel may steer 
to clear La Yandree, afterward heading for Saint-Matthieu 
point to make the range leading in. In mistj^ weather, 
vessels leaving the Raz de Sein generally try to make the 
Tas de Pois, because of their being so high and bold. The 
course to them is N^ISTE. ^ E. 

From the soundings that have been made in the Iroise, ^ 

the following two facts may prove of use to the navigator : 

1. When the lead reveals a sudden change from bottom 
free of mud to mud, the ship is on the meridian of Les 
Pierres Noires, or 5 miles from that of^La Yandree. 

2. When a sandy bottom, spotted with grains of mica, is 
brought up, the ship is in such position that any course 
between IS'W. and ENE. might put her on the Ohaussee des 
Pierres Noires. 


452 


DIRECTIONS. 


Caution. 


The Goulet. 


The roads. 


Caution. 


The rocky bottom in the Iroise is limited in the north by 
the micaceous sand, and in the west by the 33-fathom line, 
which runs very nearly along the meridian of He de Sein. 
This region is as noticeable from the irregularity in the 
soundings as from the nature of the bottom. There have 
also often been found there large black or yellow gravel, 
broken shells, and, in the clefts of the rocks, even a little 
mud, but never any sand speckled with mica, so there will 
be no doubt when the latter bed is reached, while running 
north. 

The mica differs in appearance from any other black 
specks that may apiiear in the sand by its metallic lustre. 
The specimen brought up has to be examined carefully to 
perceive this distinction. 

It is generally preferable to take the channel south of the 
shoals in the Goulet, as the tide is more favorable. Either 
shore may be approached to 1 cable. 

Arriving in the roads keep Petit Minou light-tower a little 
open to the southward of that of Portzic point, to come to 
outside the mooring-buoys in to 5 fathoms over sand. Or 
the anchor may be let go south of the lamp-post of the Per 
k Cheval, with Mengam fort on with Portzic j the depths 
there are fathoms, sand and mud bottom, 1 mile from the 
entrance to the Penfeld. 

Vessels drawing 23 feet and intending to enter the Pen¬ 
feld, can head in with Mengam rock touching Portzic point 
until Brest church tower touches the left side of the cha¬ 
teau, a sombre edifice with towers. They will then be in 5 
fathoms water, one-fourth mile from the Fer a Cheval, and 
can anchor temporarily. 

Be careful in coming-to not to foul the chains of the moor¬ 
ing-buoys. 

Vessels bound for the Port Marchand should steer on the 
last range for the entrance, and on approaching give the 
southern jetty a good berth, as there is not much water off 
it in its prolongation to the westward. Bed buoys. Nos. 2, 
4, 6, and 8, are passed to starboard, and buoys Nos. 1, 3, 5, 
and 10 to port. 

If bound for the Chateaulin river, double La Cormoran- 
dibre at a good cable’s length, or pass between it and 
Espagnols point, heading SSE., and steer to the southward 


DIRECTIONS. 


453 


of He Roude, with D61ec fort shut in by Espagnols point, 
to avoid the Basse da Renard. This coarse will lead about 
100 yards from He Ronde; or, N^vent point may be kept 
astern, showing midway between Espagnols point and La 
Oormorandibre. The most expeditious way of getting a 
pilot in the roads tor the river, is to heav^e-to for one off 
Brest, in preference to waiting for one at Roscanvel, or in 
Poulmic anchorage, or S. of FArmorique point. 

To reach the quarantine-ground, after rounding La Cor- 
morandiere, steer S. J E. IJ miles. 

To enter the Landerneau or Elorn river, keep D41ec fort 
just touching Portzic point until Brest church comes in line 
with the chateau, when a solitary tree, to the left of some 
woods in the northern part of Kelernn peninsula, should 
be kept in line with the slope of a point between those of 
Robert and Espagnols. This range leads up to the entrance 
ot the channel between Saint-Marc bank and K4raliou or 
Corbeau bank. Off man-of-war harbor a pilot will board 
the ship to take her to Kerb non. 

At night, after doubling the Ohauss6e de Sein, steer NE. 
and Saint-Mattheiu light will be made nearly ahead, and 
the red flash light of Les Pierres Noires will be seen off the 
port bow. Steer for the former, nothing to the northward 
of NNE., to avoid the Ohaussee de la Vandr^e. Petit Minou 
and Portzic lights will gradually approach each other, and 
should be steered for when in line ENE. If the ship be far 
enough to the eastward to enter the range of visibility of 
Les Oapucins light before making the latter alignment, the 
course may be changed to the eastward immediately on 
sighting it, steering with Petit Minou light a little off the 
starboard bow. 

Coming from the westward, it would be safe to pass 2 
miles S. of Les Pierres Noires light, steering E. until Petit 
Minou and Portzic lights are in one. 

As the two latter lights lead only 400 yards to the south¬ 
eastward of Basse Beuzec, it is better to keep the latter [fixed 
and flash) a little to the right of the former, [fixed.) 

When about two-thirds mile from Petit Minou light, port 
the helm to pass 2 cables S. of it, and follow the shore at 
about that distance, passing also 2 cables from Portzic light. 
A ray from Les Oapucins light will show when the vessel is 


At night. 


Caution. 


454 


DIKECTIONS. 


abreast Les Fillettes, and Mengain fort, bearing NW. J W., 
shows that Mengam rock is passed. 

Caution. lu dear weather, the red light at the entrance to the Port 

Marchand is visible from outside the Goulet, but it cannot 
well be confounded with any other. On entering the Gou¬ 
let it should be hidden by the land to avoid the shoals in 
mid-channel. 

On entering the roads, steer away with Petit Minou light 
open to the southward of that of Portzic, and anchor 
miles beyond, to the southward of the green lamp on the 
Per h Oheval. 

If the southern channel in the Goulet be taken instead of 
the northern, keep Oapucins light visible, heading for it 
until three-quarters of a mile from it, when steer for mid¬ 
way between Pointe Kobert and Portzic light, with the red 
light of the Port Marchand ahead. 

If bound for the Ohateaulin river, bring Portzic light astern 
NW., and steer away from it, anclioriug to the southward 
of I’Armorique point until daylight. 

Vessels intending to enter the Port Marchand generally 
anchor outside the mooring-buoys until daylight. 

Beating in. A vessel beating in against an easterly wind might gain 

a good deal by making a long board to the southeastward 
in the Iroise, coming up through some of the passes near 
La Parquette and adjacent shoals. Consideration of the 
Stage of the tide should influence a captain considerably in 
determining what to do. The hours of high and low water 
are practically the same in the Iroise as at Brest. The 
pilots are very familiar with all the currents and eddies. 

On approaching the meridian of Saint-Matthieu point, it 
may be approached to two-thirds of a mile. The Basse Van- 
dree is marked by a red buoy as the limit of the boards to 
the southward. The northern shore of the approaches to 
the Goulet may be approached anywhere to one-third of a 
mile except abreast Les Rospects, or at the head of Ber- 
theaume bay, or off Grand Minou point. 

Beating Vessels beating through the Goulet will find the current 

through the Gou- - ., n i i i i 

let. of the flood-tide or longer duration, and sometimes stronger, 

in the southern channel, and the current of the ebb more 
feeble. In the southern channel, the ship should go about 
in the northward before Mengam tower-beacon touches the 


DIRECTIONS. 


455 


left side of the old battery on N6vent point, until above that 
rock, when the boards may be extended to 1 cable from the 
other shore. 

In the northern channel go about in the southward before 
Men gam beacon touches Portzic point. 

The following are the ranges on which a vessel should . working-room 

. in the roads. 

tack when heading for any portion of the shores of Brest 
roadstead: (For avoiding the shoals, see under the head of 
Dangers in the Bade de Brest, page 447.) 

Between Portzic point and the Penfeld river, Mengam 
rock open of Portzic point. 

Between Pointe des Espagnols and the extremity of He 
Longue, Portzic light open to the right of La Oormoran- 
di^re, or Lanv^oc point open to the eastward of He Longue. 

Between He Longue and Lanv^oc: Poulouen mill, (the 
northernmost of all on Kelernn peninsula,) open to the right 
of He Longue. 

Between He Konde and the entrance to the channel of 
Landerneau river, Lanveoc fort open to the westward of He 
Konde. 

Between the channel of Landerneau river and the Pen¬ 
feld, I’Arrnorique mill, (the second from the point,) open to 
the right of Oorbeau fort. 

It is impossible for a sailing-vessel to put to sea from Brest Leaving th© 
roads with very light winds, as the ebb-tide would set her 
on N^vent^or Petit Minou points. ISainte-Anne bay might 
be reached, and the anchor drojiped temporarily. 

Working out against a westerly breeze, take the northern 
channel, keeping near Bertheaume bay rather than that of 
Oamaret, so as to weather Toulinguet point shoals, or have 
the wind sufficiently free to take one of the passages be¬ 
tween them. When abreast Les Pierres Iiloires, a stretch 
may be made to the Chaussee de Sein against the flood-tide. 

As a general rule, during the ebb-tide the longest boards are 
made on the port tack, and during the flood-tide on the star¬ 
board. 

With a steady breeze from the westward, get under way 
in the roads two hours before high water, and the ship will 
be past Les Fillettes before the end of the ebb-tide. 

Do not tack too close inshore in the Goulet, as there are Caution. 


456 


PENFELD RIVER—BREST CITY. 


Penfeld river. 


La Rose rock. 

Bar. 

Storm-signals. 
City of Brest. 


apt to be flaws in the wind, nor immediately to leeward of 
any rock. 

The month of the river Penfeld, forming the Port Mili- 
taire, is reserved for vessels of the French navy.* The 
depth in the river is 30 feet at low water, but it is very nar¬ 
row, and tugs and hauliug-lines are very generally used in 
moving large vessels. Ships are handled by the port offi¬ 
cers, and lie in a single tier. The channel is marked tin the 
starboard hand by red buoys, Nos. 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12, 
which are in 4J fathoms water. On the port hand are black 
buoys. Nos. 1, 3, 5, and 7, near which are depths of 5, 4J, 
4J, and 4 fathoms. Each buoy has painted on it its number 
and the depth of water. The direction of the channel is 
given by the signal-mast on with the second store-house. 
Entering and leaving the port are always done during the 
flood-tide. 

The only danger in the entrance to the port is La Eose 
rock, over which the depth at lowest equinoctial tides is 17 
feet. It lies 87 yards S W. from Petit Chateau point, on the 
eastern side of the entrance. 

The bar at the entrance has 3J-fathom depths at low 
water. 

Storm and weather signals are made from the entrance to 
man-of-war harbor. 

The city of Brest, situated on the eastern shore of the 
Penfeld, and separated by that river from its suburb Re- 
couvrauce, is built upon the top and sloping sides of a hill 
in some places so steep that the ascent from the lower to 
the upper town is performed by flights of stairs. 

A revolving bridge spans the river at a height of 88 feet 
above the level of low-water neaps, connecting Eecouvrance 
with the heights of Brest. In addition, there are a floating 
bridge below the latter, one connecting the shores of the 
military port, and still another at the bottom of the harbor. 
The Bagnes or prisons for galley slaves are the largest in 
France; in 1873 they contained 3,000 convicts. The public 
institutions include a naval school, communal college, pub- 

* Merchant-vessels cannot enter unless to load or unload government 
freight. The order to that effect has to be obtained from the Directeur 
des mouvements du port. 



COMMERCE—EXPENSES. 


457 


lie library, and botanic garden. There is a fine marine 
hospital also, with 26 rooms, each containing 53 beds. 

The population of Brest has been decreasing for some 
years. In 1872 it was 66,272. 

The foreign commerce has declined considerably of late 
years, principally from lack of enterprise on the part of the 
larger capitalists. 

The principal foreign imports are coal, jute, cement, and 
bricks from England; timber, deals, and ice from Norway ; 
hemp from Russia; tallow from the Rio de la Plata; wheat 
from Portugal, and timber from Prussia. The total value 
of English coal imported in 1873 was £31,000, of which 26 
cargoes came in English bottoms, and 71 in French. 

The exports comprise preserved sardines to the United 
States; telegraph-piles, oats, barley, vegetables, &c., to Eng¬ 
land ; mixed cargoes of small value to other countries. 

The coasting trade by sailing-vessels has decreased also 
in consequence of the facility offered by railways; in order 
to increase it steamers are now employed, more especially 
to and from Bordeaux. 

In 1873, besides colonial produce, manufactured goods, 
wines, spirits, cider, dried fruits, &c., there were brought 
by coasters 21,000 tons of coal from the Auzin mines, in the 
D4partement tlu Nord, for the exclusive use of the govern¬ 
ment dock-yard. The exports by coasters include cereals, 
farm-produce, vegetables, preserved sardines, &c. 

Besides several railways, a canal, leading from the Cha- 
teaulin river, joins Brest with Nantes. 

The port-charges, &c., on a vessel measuring 300 tons, 
and carrying 450 tons of cargo, are, inward and outward : 

Francs. Centimes. 


Pilotage, inward. . 144 70 

Sanitary-dues. 30 00 

Clearance, inward. 12 15 

Quay-dues. 150 00 

Clearance, outward. 2 10 

Pilotage, outward. 60 00 

Brokerage. 225 00 

Total. 623 95 


Ship-masters speaking French may perform their own brokerage, and 
thus save 50 centimes a ton. 

A vessel of 400 tons register, taking a pilot in and out, 


Population. 

Commerce. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Coasting-trade. 


Port charges. 










458 


INDUSTRIES—REPAIRS. 


Ban king, 
houses. 


Industries. 


Repairs and as¬ 
sistance. 


Supplies. 


could remaiu as long as desired, and sail again, for about 
$30, provided she neither receive nor discharge any cargo. 

There is a branch of the Bank of France at Brest, and 
the Soci6t6 G6n4rale of Paris, a few years since, also 
opened an office there j independent of these establishments, 
the Comptoir du Finisthre carries on its business as before. 
The rate of exchange on England varies considerably, 
ranging from 25 francs 20 centimes to 26 francs per pound 
sterling. At times there has been great difficulty in obtain¬ 
ing bills sterling; this is caused by a decrease in exports 
(principally of cattle and grain) to England. 

The manufactures of Brest are insignificant, the princi¬ 
pal being that of glazed hats for seamen. Of the other in¬ 
dustries, the fisheries sometimes give employment to 18,000 
men, manning 4,000 boats of 19,000 tons aggregate meas¬ 
urement. As regards agriculture, little or no progress has 
been made, either in the cultivation of the soil, or in the 
implements used for the purpose. The peasantry are 
strongly opposed to innovations, and view with distrust the 
few made by the larger proprietors. The latter have 
another insurmountable evil to contend against, viz: the 
proverbial love of intoxicating spirits among the laborers, 
which is all the more noticeable from the contrast offered 
in the habits of the lower classes in other parts of the 
country. 

When repairs cannot be effected by the local shipwrights, 
the maritime authorities (after some formalities have been 
gone through to guard against interference with jealous 
local interests) promptly place at the disposal of merchant- 
ships, as well as men-of-war, the use of the government 
dock yard; and they are ready at all times, at a fixed and 
moderate price, to send government steamers to the assist¬ 
ance of vessels in distress on the coast. The important 
services rendered in this respect cannot be too much lauded. 
In 1873, 39 ships of different nationalities put into the 
roads in distress, and were repaired. 

As a coaling-station Brest affords great facilities; the 
price of English coal averages about 40 or 4L francs per ton, 
delivered on board. French coal from the Auzin mines can 
be obtained also, but for steaming purposes it is inferior to 
the English or Welsh. It is brought alongside in barges. 


LANDERNEAU RIVER AND TOWN. 


459 


either in the roadstead or in the merchant or the military 
ports. Water is also brought off in water-boats, upon appli¬ 
cation to the “direction des mouvemeuts du port.^’ 

Galley-fires are not allowed to be lighted on board ves¬ 
sels moored above the bridge; those berthed below it can 
obtain permission to have them from the harbor-master. 

Ships^ boats land in the commercial port, and in the little 
basin at the angle of the chateau and a jetty, about 200 
yards to the westward of the entrance to man-of-war harbor. 

The Landeiyieau or Elorn river is navigable as far as the 
town of Landernean, (9 miles from the mouth,) by vessels 
drawing 13 feet, during ordinary high tides. Its width up 
to the bridge at the latter town is between 400 and 550 
yards; farther up the channel is much narrower. The bed 
of the river is quite level, and of mud throughout up to 450 
yards below the town, where rocks are found. 

Landerneau is a small town of some 7,000 inhabitants, 
who maintain a coasting trade; a few deep-water ships also 
come there at times. The exports comprise grain and farm 
produce; the imports, coal, iron, steel, and salt. Vessels 
of 400 tons measurement have ascended to the town, load¬ 
ing and unloading, without grounding, at two-thirds mile 
below. 

Dues and charges on a vessel of 66 tons register, (114 tons 
burden,) drawing 10 feet: 

Francs, Centimes. 


Pilotage from Brest. 14 00 

Entry. 12 00 

Health dues and pass. 8 70 

Brokerage, (50 cent, per ton burden). 57 00 

Ballast, (40 tons). 46 00. 

Pilotage to Brest. 14 00 

Total. 151 70 


Labor, 3 francs per day; tracking, 1 franc each, but only come about 
1 mile below the town. If a pilot be detained after the first day he is 
employed, his pay is 4 francs per day. 

The bar of the river, which is 3 cables in extent east and 
west, is one-half mile outside of Saiute-Barbe point, and has 
14 feet of water over it at lowest springs, so that 19 feet can 
be carried over it at ordinary low water. Above it the depths 
are 4J to 7 fathoms for about 2 miles, or to one-half mile 
above Kerhuon bay. Below the bar the channel is straight. 


Boat landings. 


Land e r n e a a 
river. 


Town. 


Expenses. 


Bar. 









460 


ANCHORAGE—CHItEAULIN ROADS. 


Dangers. 


Anchorage. 


Tides. 


Pilots. 


Directions. 


Bade de Ch4- 
teaulin. 


"Working-room. 


narrow, and deep between Saint-Marc and Oorbeaii or Kd- 
raliou banks. Depths of 5J fathoms are found up to SW, 
by S. of the Poiute du Moulin Blanc, which is 1 mile west¬ 
ward of that of Sainte-Barbe and separated from it by an 
inlet of the same name as the former. For two-thirds mile, 
south of Moulin Blanc point, there are only 10 feet at low 
water. 

The only dangers in the river are, a 4-foot patch, 330 
yards SSE. of Sainte-Barbe point, and a small plateau 
near the northern bank, half a mile above Saint-Jean. The 
former is not buoyed ; on the latter is a black tower which 
can be approached close-to iu the southward. There is, 
also, an oyster-bed off the southern bank, below Saint- 
Jean, marked by two buoys and by poles. 

The best anchorage in the river is off Kerhuou bay, 
about 300 yards from the southern bank, in 5 fathoms. 
Ships, bringing timber for the naval depot, come-to there, 
and it would berth much larger vessels, fn Kerhuon bay 
are 2 mooring-buoys. 

It is high water, full and change, at Landerneau, at 3^ 
56“‘. Ordinary springs rise 14| feet abreast the town, 16 
feet at three-fourths of a mile below. 

The Brest pilots take vessels to Kerhuon inlet, where a 
river-pilot is found. Coming down, the latter take as far 
as Brest. 

Vessels going up the river must have the wind between 
KW. and S., or be tracked. Sainte-Barbe point should be 
passed at about 100 yards distance, and the ship then kept 
iu mid-channel to Kerhuon anchorage. 

The Bade de Ohateaulin is 5 miles in extent to the east¬ 
ward of the line joining He Bonde and Lanv^oc point, and 
2 miles north and south. There are a number of small 
streams emptying into it, besides the Ohateaulin river. 

The navigable space in this roadstead is greatly dimin¬ 
ished by the numerous banks along its shores ; it extends 
only about 3 miles to the eastward of He Bonde, Laud^ven- 
nec channel beginning there and running several miles to 
the mouth of Ohateaulin river proper. Off Penarvir point 
the width is only 1 mile to the banks skirting the northern 
shore. The bottom, throughout, is sand and mud, at 6 to 
14 fathoms. The only rocky patch is flve-sixths of a mile 


ANCHORAGES. 


461 


S. by W. from Doubidy point, on the range of Portzic light, 
midway between He Konde and PArmoriqiie point. It is 
covered by 5 fathoms of water. 

The northern shore of the Bade is clean to about 400 
yards, between He Konde and SW. of Doubidy point. To 
the eastward an extensive mud-bank carries the 5-fathom 
line to 1 mile distance. 

The southern shore may be approached to about 2 cables 
between Lauv^oc and Penarvir points, a distance of 2 miles. 

For miles eastward a ship may come to the range of 
Lanv^oc fort open of the rocks oif Penarvir. 

All the remainder of the bay is filled with soft, black 
mud-banks at slight depths, and even awash in some 
places. As there are no rocks, however, small craft can 
beat about over them at half-tide. 

L’Anse de Lauberlac’h, a shallow bay 1 mile eastward of 
He Konde, extends about the same distance to the north- 
northeastward. Anchorage is found in 13 feet water at 3 
cables to the northward of Doubidy i^oint, the eastern 
side of the entrance. During SW. winds and ebb-tide the 
sea is heavy, but the anchors hold well in the mud. Ves¬ 
sels bound for the Ohateaulin river, and unprovided with a 
pilot, generally heave-to for one off the compass-buoys, (half 
a mile westward of Doubidy point.) 

Pen-a-Land point is 1| miles east of Doubidy. The an- 
chorage to the eastward of it is 4 miles E. J S. from He 
Konde, but the intervening bank extending five-sixths of a 
mile off' shore, between the two points, prevents a straight 
course being followed for it. The general depths in the 
anchorage are only 2 and 2^ fathoms, but in several places 
are holes where vessels of considerable draught could re¬ 
main. On the bottom is a depth of very soft mud, of 3 
feet. 

Tinduff bay, which takes its name from the village on the Tinduff bay, 
second beach inside Pen-a-Land point, comprises all the 
space embraced between the latter point and that of Binde, 
to the soutliwestward of which are the islets of the same 
name. Three small streams empty into it, those of Saint- 
Claud, Loperhet, and Daoulas. On the latter is the small 
town of Daoulas, which can be reached by vessels drawing 
11^ feet. To the westward of the Pointe du Binde is a 


462 


CHATEAULIN RIVER AND TOWN. 


Chenal de 
Land6vennec. 


Le Faou. 


Ch&teanlin 

river. 


Towns. 


deepeuiag of the water, 600 yards in width north and south, 
and extending from KW. of tbe lies du Binde westward to 
the 8-fathom depths south of Pen-a-Land point. 

The circuitous channel leading to the mouth of the Oha- 
teaulin or Aulne river, beginning south of Pen-a-Land 
point, is named after the town of Land6vennec, at the 
mouth of the river, built upon a high, wooded eminence, 
nearly surrounded on all sides by the winding stream. It 
is very deep except south of Logonna steeple, miles to 
the eastward of lies du Binde, where there is a bar with 
only 8 feet of water at lowest springs. The entire channel 
is marked by red and black buoys on the starboard and 
port hands respectively. Having entered the Bade de Oha- 
teaulin, Boscanvel mill (on Kelernn peninsula) open to the 
northward of He Longue leads to the first buoy. 

Three small rivers flow into the Chenal de Landevennec 
from the eastward, those of I’Hopital, Keroulay, and Le 
Faou. On the latter is a town of the same name, of 1,200 
inhabitants, sitnated on the railroad from Nantes to Brest. 

Both banks of the Chateaulin river, near the mouth, are 
high and wooded, and present a very picturesque appear¬ 
ance. Abreast of Landdvennec the channel is 7 to 8i fath¬ 
oms deep ; opposite it, a number of government vessels are 
moored along the shores of a little bight, called Penfourm 
anchorage. 

There are two towns on the Chateaulin, Port Launay and 
Chateaulin, situated respectively at 19 and 21 miles from 
Landevennec. The latter, which has a population of about 
3,500, is at the head of the canal to Nantes. 


CHAPTER XII. 

SAINT-MATTHIEU POINT TO MELGORNE POINT, INCLUDING 
OUESSANT ISLAND. 

Variation in 1876.—Ouessant islaud, 20° 40' W. 

The coast from Saint Mattliieu point runs 11 miles in a coast, 
general direction of N. to Melgorne point, the NW. extreme 
of France. It is moderately high, and the breaks and fissures 
in its granite formation, and the numerous and remarkably- 
shaped rocks and islets near the land, render its features 
easy of recognition. The shore is generally steep-to, but 
so bordered by the numerous dangers that it should not be 
approached at night or in thick weather within a depth of 
45 fathoms, where the bottom will be found of gray sand 
mixed with flints and other stones. 

The Basse du Chenal, with 5 to 8 feet on it, marked by a Basse du che- 
red buoy on the eastern side, and steep close-to, is the SW. 
danger of the Ohenal du Four. It lies IJ miles SW. by W. 

J W. from Saiut-Matthieu light, with Kermorvan point in 
line with Portzmoguer beach, N. by E. J E. 

To the northward of Saint-Matthieu point the coast is Kermorvan 
foul for one-half to three-fourths mile out. Kermorvan # 

point, a little over 2 miles in the NNW., is the western ex¬ 
treme of a peninsula rather lower than the land to the 
southward, and projecting from just to the northward of 
the port of Le Oonquet. There are two redoubts on it be¬ 
sides the light-tower. 

At two thirds mile S. 4 W. from Kermorv^an point, and Basse des Re-. 

^ ^ ' ‘nards. 

one-half mile off Les Kenards point, which is distinguished 
by a semaphore, is the Basse des Reuards, with 8 feet on it, 
marked by a black buoy off the western edge. At 2 cables 
inshore of it are Les Renards rocks, marked by a black 
tower surmounted by a staff and ball. 

Shoal patches also extend to the westward, covered by 3 
and 3J fathoms. Outside them a rock, called La Grande 


464 


LE CONQUET—LIGHT. 


Yinotiere, three-fourths mile WNW. from the light, is 
marked by a black and red tower-beacon. Off the N. point 
of the peninsula is an islet beyond which the water is shoal 
for one-fourth mile. 

LeConquet. The port of Le Oonquet, extending in miles to the 
eastward, is very narrow, and dries at low water. The 
place has 1,100 inhabitants, but is of no importance com¬ 
mercially. The white steeple on the southern side of the 
entrance is a good landmark. Rocky ledges extend from 
both sides of the entrance. 

Le conquet Lc Oonquct light is fixed white^ dioptric, of the third 

2F^44" K.^f iong. Order, visible 11 miles, exhibited at an elevation of 72 feet 

40 47/ 31^/ ' 

above the sea, from a square white tower, 59 feet high, 
standing on Kermorvan point,' near the water’s edge. It is 
proposed to establish a fog-signal on the point. 

^^Life-saving A life-boat is Stationed at Le Oonquet, and connected 
with it is a rocket-apparatus. 

To the northeastward of Kermorvan point, in I’Anse des 

Blancs Sablons. 

Blancs Sablons, is good anchorage in 6 to 9 fathoms, over 
sand and gravel, at one-half mile from the point. This bay 
is two-thirds mile deep, and 1 mile in width KNE. to a sandy 
creek, called Portz-Ilien, where very good water is found 
and can be brought off in boats. 

Corsen point. At2| milcs northward of Kermorvan point is that of Gor- 
sen, easily distinguished by its steep cliffs and semaphore; 
it is often the first land made coming from Ouessant. About 
five-sixths of a mile to the southeastward of it is the small 
bay of Portzmoguer, from the southern point of which pro¬ 
jects a ridge of rocks terminating in the Basse Jaune, 550 
yards off shore. 

Laberiidut. From Oorsen point, which cannot be approached to nearer 
than one-third of a mile, the coast, becoming more and more 
foul, runs miles NNE. to the little port of Laberiidut, 
which extends in about three-fourths of a mile aud dries at 
low water, and the entrance to which is so st idded with 
shoals that it is impossible to enter without a pilot. There 
are two villages on this arm of the sea—Laber and Lanil- 
dut—and about 1 mile inland is the town of Breles, the stee¬ 
ple of which can be seen from the offing in clear weather. 
There is a moderate exportation of granite carried on. A 
small steam-tug can be had for towing vessels out, at a cost 


SHOALS—MELON ISLAND. 


4C5 


of 8 francs. Pilotage is 1 franc per foot draught. The only 
port due is 2 francs paid to the customs. 

Rocks extend far out from this last stretch of coast, with 
channels inshore of them, taken by coasters to avoid the 
swift currents farther out. Le Goaltock, five-sixths of a mile 
N. by W. from Corsen point, is 175 yards in extent, and 
steep-to except in the SE., where a plateau runs out 1 
cable’s length. The Plateau des Fourches, beginning at half 
a mile north of Goaltock, extends 1 mile to the north-north¬ 
westward ; on the southern portion are two rocks that are 
always visible. Men-Portz Giien is a half-tide rock lying 
NE. of Les Fourches, 4 cables off shore. To the northward 
are the Basse Olivier, half a mile from Men-Portz-Guen, and 
Pierre Laber, 1 mile W. by S. from the entrance to Laberil- 
dut inlet. On tho former are two rocks that uncover 1 and 
2 feet respectively. 

There are, in addition, a multitude of shoal patches ex¬ 
tending as far as 2 miles outj the farthest is La Valbelle, 
marked by a bell-buoy,* on the range of Plouarzel steeple 
seen between Les Fourches. Le Tendoc rock, with only 0 
feet over it, marked on its western side by a black buoy, 
lies about 1 mile westward of Goaltock, on the range of the 
latter and the ruined mill of Trezien. 

From Laberildut port the coast runs to the north-north¬ 
westward, to the southern point of Portzpoder bay, which 
is recognizable by an eminence crowned b}" a semaphore. 
Midway, among the numerous rocks that forbid a nearer ap¬ 
proach than two-thirds of a mile, is Melon island, about 550 
yards long, north and south. Coasters frequently run in¬ 
shore of it from the northward, and ground, leaving with 
cargoes of stone. The town of the same name on the shore 
opposite, consists of a number of scattered houses, mostly 
white, with slate roofs. 

The name of Les Linious is given to a cluster of rocky 
heads about 1 mile in extent XE. and S\Y., Ijdng 1 mile off 
shore, of Melon island. Le Grand Liniou, in the 

middle of the group, always shows above water. In foggy 

*A recent notice from the French Hydrographic Office announces that 
this buoy no longer exists; no information has been received as to 
whether it will be replaced or not. 

30 N C 


Rocks. 


La Valbelle. 

Le Tendoc. 


Melon island. 


Les Linious. 



4GG 


MELGORNE POIjN’T—LE FOUR LIGHT. 


Basse Meur. 


weather, the small craft bound for Laber, Melon, or Argeii- 
tou try to make them, being well off shore and marked by 
constant breakers. Eunning north and south outside them, 
the Basse Saint-Jacques, covered by 4 fathoms, one-third of 
a mile to the westward of the southern extremity, should 
be avoided by vessels of large or of moderate draught. 

The Basse Meur is a rocky patch, with 2 heads, reported 
to be covered by very little water, lying 2 miles west of Les 
Linious, on the range of Landuneves mill and Petit Mel- 
gorne rock, and with Saint-^Matthieu light-tower between 
the tower on Kermorvan point and the summit of that 
peninsula. 

Portzpoder Poi’tzpoder bay is open to the westward, and bordered by 
a beach 550 yards in length running north and south, ft is 
almost unapproachable from the number of dangers imme¬ 
diately to the westward. In case of being drawn inshore, 
it is recommended to try to make the northern part of the 
beach, but it would be almost impossible to do so without 
considerable local knowledge. 

M e 1 gome Portzpoder bay terminates in the north in Saint-Laurent 
peninsula, the western extreme of which is Pointe Mel- 
gorne. Of the rocks extending half a mile to the west¬ 
ward, the outermost. Petit Melgorue, never covers. 

At li miles WNW. of Mel gome point is the large, dark, 
4° 48'conical rock of Le Four, larger at the top than at the bot¬ 
tom, with shoal patches on all sides. On it stands a circu¬ 
lar stone tower, 82 feet high, the base of which covers the 
entire rock. The light exhibited from it, elevated 92 feet 
above sea-level, visible 17 miles, is tvhite, fixed for 30 seconds^ 
with S flashes during the following 30 seconds. The illum¬ 
inating apparatus is dioptric, of the third order. 

Fog-trumpet. In thick Weather a steam fog-trumpet is sounded for 5 
seconds^ at intervals of 20 seconds. 

Port of Argen- The port of Argentoii is a small inlet, drying at low water, 
east of the small peninsula (often called island) of Dolves, 
which is one-fourth of a mile NE. of that of Saint-Laurent. 

At half a mile NW. of the entrance to Argen ton bay is 
Pile d’lock, 2 cables in extent north and south, connected 
with the main-land at low water. 

The approaches to this NW. extreme of France are stud¬ 
ded with shoals, too numerous for detail desciiption. No 


point. 


Le Four light 
Lat. 480 31 ^ 23 


lie d’lock. 


Sboals. 


LES PLItRESSES. 


407 


sliip-master, witliont good local knowledge, should pass to a 
the eastward of the meridian of Le Four or Les Linious, 

Ihe Basse Boureau, 1 mile W. J S. from Le Four, is cov¬ 
ered by 54 fathoms. It is on the range of Saint-Matthieu 
light tower open Qo 17' to the right of Oorsen point. At 
half a mile ENE. from Le Four is Grand Chateau rock, on 
the southern edge of a plateau two-thirds of a mi;e in ex¬ 
tent. Among other rocks of this group, that ne\ c'r cover, 
is Men Hir, 500 yards N\V. of the latter. 

To the northeastward of this plateau are Les Chambres, 
a number of large rocks that always show above water. 

In this vicinity the current of the flood sets NE. ; that of Tidal currents, 
the ebb S\V. The latter is felt at Le Four 2 hours before 
the time of high w'ater at Brest, and the former LJ hours 
after low water at Brest. 

Les Platresses are a cluster of rocks three-fourths of a LesPhUresses. 
mile in extent north and south, some of which uncover at 
half-ebb, lying SW. from La Valbelle, about 4 cables out¬ 
side the alignment of Saint-Matthieu and Le Couquet 
lights. Two red buoys mark them, off* the NE. and SE. 
corners, respectively ; between the former and that of Val¬ 
belle is a channel a little over half a mile wide. Tlie group 
is on the west side of Le Four channel, (see end of chapter,) 
and on the east side of La Helle channel. 

About 1J miles NVV. from Les Platresses, on the range of shoais. 

La Helle rock open one-half degree to the left of Molene 
island, is the Basse Saint-Louis, covered by 2J fathoms 
water; and five-sixths of a mile \V. by N. from the latter, 
with Ploumoguer steeple touching the north side of Goal- 
tock rock, is Saiut-Charles shoal with 6 fathoms over it. 

The extreme eastern limit of the plateaux between Cues- Basseonentaie 
sant and the main, runs north and south, and is miles 
long in a nearly straight line between the Basse Orientale 
du Courleau and the Bossemen Oriental, passing a short half- 
mile west of La Grande Vinotiere. The former, covered by 
6 feet water, is 1 mile NiS’W. of La Grande Vinotiere beacon, 
on the range of Ploumoguer steeple (high and pointed) over 
Brenterc’h guard-house, ENE. There is a 25-fathom patch 
one-half mile north of it. 

The islet called Le Bossemen Oriental, the easternmost LesBossomen. 
of the Chauss^e des Pierres Noires, is small, circular, 15 


4G8 


LES riEURES NOIRES—LIQIIT. 


feet above bigli-water mark. It is 2jr miles WSW. from 
Saiut-Matthieu poiut, and it and the Bossemen Occidental, 
one-half mile westward, and showing 20 feet, are the only 
rocks that remain uncovered between that point and Les 
Chemiuees. A little less than one-halt' mile to the south¬ 
ward on the range of the eastern Bossemen a little open of 

Basse Koyaie. Corseii point, is the Basse Boyale, covered by 4 fathoms. 

This shoal is just outside the range of visibility of Capu- 
cins light. Men Civien rock, which uncovers 13 feet in 
springs, is 2 cables K. by E. of the eastern Bossemen. The 
Basse des Bossemen is a small sunken rock, with about 10 
feet water on it, and lies with the western Bossemen nearly 
in line with the SE. point of Beniguet island, and the east¬ 
ern Bossemen isE., one-third of a mile distant, open a little 
to the right of Le Conquet steeple. 

PieiiSNolres^^ Chaussce dcs Pierres Xoires extends 5^ miles to the 

westward of Basse Eoyale, terminating in the Basse Occi- 
dentale, which is covered by 2 fathoms water, and the 
ranges of which are: Les Cheminees seen midway between 
Pierres‘N'oires light tower and Le Diamant rock; the east¬ 
ern head of the Serroux seen to the left of the western point 
of Trielen island. 

PioresNoires. Les Pierres iloires, the westernmost rocks of the Chaussee 
that uncover, are about 15 feet above high-water level, with 
ledges extending 1 cable from them. The southwestern- j 

most of this outer group is Le Diamant, which is bold all ' 

round, with deepwater between it and the other rocks; i 
but at 1 cable SSW. of it is Le Iloux, a patch that uncovers 
2 feet at low water. 

Pierres xoires On the largest of Les Pierres Iisoires stands a circular 

llgllt: J-i cl t. 

Stone tower 82 feet high, exhibiting, at an elevation of 90 
feet above the sea, a red light flashing every 10 seconds^ visi¬ 
ble 12 miles. The illuminating apparatus is dioptric, of 
the third order. 

Lea Cheminees. Qf the rocks near the southern edge of the Chaussee, Les 
Chemiuees are three in number, showing about 30 feet above 
high water, lying li miles E. by S. from Pierres IS'oires light. 
The easternmost two are nearly joined. There are a few half¬ 
tide rocks, on which the sea always breaks, on the eastern 
side. The western Cheminee is bold and lies on the SE. side 
of one of the passages into the new channel into Le Four. 



KEROUROC—BOUFOULOC—LA SIEGE. 


4G0 


Le Ranvel is a ledge of rocks 5 or G feet above liigb-water ^ Ranvei. 
springs. In the west and southwest are two patches which 
uncover 4 and 9 feet respectivel3^ These rocks are the 
southernmost of the Chaussee. 

The Basse Large is a bank about three-fourths of a mile Basse Large, 
in length NNE. and SSW., and one-half mile in breadth. 

On its northern part there are only 2 feet at low water, and 
on its SE. side one spot dries j on other parts of the bank 
there are 2 to 4 fathoms water. The SE. shoal spot lies 
with Le Diamant in line with Lcs Cheminees, and Lochrist 
church bearing NE. J E., well open to the right of the east¬ 
ern Bossemen. Vessels standing toward the bank should 
keep Le Diamant open to the southward of Le Ranvel. 

Kerouroc, 1J miles SSW. from Beniguet island, is a small Korouroc. 
islet where a boat may find landing in almost any weather. 

There are many half-tide rocks and shallow patches round 
it, and about li cables north of it the Pierre des Poissons 
rises 27 feet above low-water storings. 

The Placen-ar-B<Sniguet is a large ledge of rocks a long. Piacen-Ar-Ben- 
half-mile north of Les Pierres Noires. These rocks uncover’”'^ ’ 

18 feet at springs, and being at all times seen by the break¬ 
ers are a good mark to avoid other dangers. Midway 
between them and Les Pierres Noires is a depth of G fath¬ 
oms. 

Le Boufouloc is a large, uneven, rocky bank, on which LeBonfouioc. 
there are two small heads. The southern one lies a short 
mile to the west northwestward of Le Diamant, with Saint- 
Matthieu light barely open to the northward of Kerouroc 
islet. The northern head is 1 mile from Le Diamant, with 
Lochrist steeple just clear north of Placen-ar-Beniguet. Be¬ 
tween the latter and Boufouloc is a bank about one-half 
mile in length E3E. and WXW., with IJ to 3J fathoms 
water on it. 

La Siege comprises a group of rocks, two of which never Lasi^ge. 
cover and are surrounded by others that dry only at low- 
water springs. They lie midwa^^ between Les Pierres 
Koires and Kerouroc, a little to the northwestward of the 
line. 

The passage between La Siege and Kerouroc has a depth p^®®- 

of 2J fathoms. The range leading through is Le Cromic, ' 
seen one third way from the former to the latter. 


470 


BEKIGUET ISLAND. 


PetitTaur.au. Petit Ttiureau is a rocky slioal, which iiucovers 9 feet at 
springs. It lies with Le Oonquet church on with the SE. 
end of Beniguet island and Le Banvel rock seen between 
Les Cheminees and La Siege. The depths all round are 4J 
to 5 fathoms. 

B6uig^;efc isi- Beniguet is a low island IJ miles long NE. and SW. with 
a width of about 400 yards. The NE. point is 2i miles W. 
by S. from Le Conquet light. A landing is easily effected 
on a sandy beach on the SE. shore. There is a soda factory 
on the island, and grain is raised. The only water on the 
island is brackish. A large number of rocks and sunken 
ledges lie on the SE. side, most of which begin to uncover 
at one-third ebb, and show a great extent of surface at low 
water. A long ledge extends from the SW. point; as the 
sea breaks on them with the least swell, they are easily 
avoided. At the extremity are the Loudeguets, two small 
rocks a few feet above the surface at all times, and recog¬ 
nizable by their proximity to Fornic, a large rock, 18 feet 
out of water, 500 yards W. by S. of them. There are also 
two other small detached pieces of high rock^ surrounded 
with low-tide ledges, on the northern and western side of the 
island about 1 cable offj and a broken ledge of rocks runs 
from the north extreme, the whole of which is uncovered at 
low water. Off the beach on the northern side is anchorage 
for small vessels close to it. The island is surrounded on 
all sides by a beach of pebbles well calculated for ballast. 

Currents. Eastward of Beniguet island the tidal currents run strong, 
NE. during the flood and SW. during the ebb. 

Eocky bottom is found at 2J to 4 fathoms for 1 mile east¬ 
ward. Shoals extend 2 miles to the northward to the Che- 
nal du Four. 

LesBeiveignou. Les Belveiguou are a large group of black looking ledges 
of considerable extent at low water, with two small spots 
only appearing at the surface at high-water neaps j the re¬ 
mainder uncover gradually with the ebb, and at low water 
they mark the eastern boundary of the new channel into 
Le Four. 

New channel There is a channel between Beniguet island in the east 
du Four. and those of Quemenes, Lytiry, and Morgol in the west, 
• with depths of lOJ feet at low-water springs, which gives 18 
feet at low-water neaps, 23 J feet at half tide, and 29 at high- 


r^EW CHANNEL INTO LE CIIENAL DU FOUR. 

water ueaps * A vessel, therefore, set in by the swoll er 
making the vicinity during a fog with SW. winds could very 
frequently use it. The tides run through with great rapidity, 
and every precaution must be taken to insure the vessel’s 
answering the helm promptly. 

Steer for Trieleu island about N. by E., keeping the east¬ 
ern Serroux, which is always visible, well open to the left 
of it, to clear the Basse Occidentale des Pierres !Noires. 
When Saint ]\Iatthieu light-tower opens a little to the north¬ 
ward ol Placen-ar-Beniguet, which is always seen either as 
rocks or breakers, steer for Morgol islet until Lochrist church 
is just over the S. end of B6niguet. Then steer for the 
. end*of the latter, (about E!NE.,) taking care on near¬ 
ing the Loudeguet rocks not to shut in the two eastern 
Cheminces with Kerouroc until the spire of Lochrist is seen 
over the centre of Beniguet. Starboard the helm in time 
to steer away to the northward, with Pierre des Poissons, 
Kerouroc, and Les Cheminces rocks in line astern. This leads 
in mid-channel between Morgol isle and Belveignou rock. Be 
careful not to open the eastern Loudeguet from the W. end 
of Kerouroc until Le Cromic comes on with Morgol, when 
the western extremity of Belveignou ledge will have been 
passed, and the channel will begin to widen and deepen. 
Having passed the latter, haul to the northeastward, steer¬ 
ing with Le Cromic open to the westward of Morgol; this 
range astern leads into Le Four channel, leaving Petit Pour- 
ceaux, and various other ledges, rocks, and shoals forming 
Les Pourceaux bank, on the port side ; and Petit Courleau, 
which dries 15 feet at low water, and other dangers, on the 
starboard side. 

The three islands of Lytiry, Quemenes, and Ledenes de 
Quemenes form, with Morgol islet, a group crowning a 
plateau miles in extent E. and W., and 1 mile K. and S. 
The first, the smallest of the tliree, about 650 yards 

* Captain Hard, R. N., passing through there in 1806, says: “ In every 
I)art of the channel to within oue-half mile of Beniguet, there are from 
10 to 6 fathoms water, and in the shoalest part, between Morgol isle and 
Belveignou, I have nowhere found less than 3^ fathoms at the lowest 
springs; and therefore on all neap tides you may fairly calculate on 4 
fathoms at low water.” The depths quoted above are given by Captain 
Thomassin.of the French Navy, in 1871. 


471 

W. 

Directions. 


Lytiry island. 



472 


LYTIRY—QUE^IEIS'ES—MORGOL. 


Qu6in6nes is 

and. 


L6d6n68 

Queui6n6s. 


Morgol islet. 


loDg, is imcultivated; sea-weed is collected, besides shells 
aud shrimps. Lauding is effected on the SE. side. Be¬ 
tween it and the other islands is a passage 60 yards wide, 
runuing by W., with only o feet at low water. 

Quemenes island is about 1,500 yards long E. aud W., 
and 300 to 400 yards broad; it is connected with Ledenes 
by rocky ledges 300 yards long, which dry at low water. 
There are pasture-lands on the island, and horses, cattle, 
sheep, aud bogs are raised. There are several houses on 
the island. Landing is effected on the SE. side; boats of 
20 tons come there to load soda, 
de Ledenes de Quemenes is about 550 yards long, N.- of the 
E, end of Quemenes. 

Bocks and shoals extend a short mile northward of this 
islet. The N. point of the Chaussee des Pourceaux is 2 miles, 
^E. by E. J E., from it, with Lochrist church just open to 
the southward of the light-tower on Kermorvan point. 

Morgol islet has the appearance of a pebble-beach, sur¬ 
rounded by black ledges in all directions. The latter run 
to the SW. and join those of Le Gromic; from its eastern 
side they extend one-fourth mile, forming the western 
boundary of the new channel into Le Four. 

Le Cromic. Le Cromic, S. of Lytiry and W. of Morgol, is a remark¬ 
able, small, high rock, about 30 feet above high water, and 
at a distance of a few miles in hazy weather it has much the 
appearance of a small vessel under sail. There are many 
half-tide aud low-water ledges running from it to the south¬ 
ward, the outermost of which, a long half-mile off, begins 
to uncover at half-ebb. The mark for the eastern point of 
this ledge is the eastern Chemiuee open slightly to the west¬ 
ward of the Keronroc, and for the S. point, Lochrist church 
spire within the N. point of Beniguet. 

Passage be- Between Quemenes and Trielen islands is a passage, with 
11| feet at low-water springs. It is about 2 cables in width, 
and runs N. aud S. The length between the islands aud 
between adjacent shoals in the northward is 2 miles, and 
vessels may stand on 2J miles farther to clear the Plateau 
de la Helle, or pass out to the eastward S. of the latter. A 
vessel becalmed in the southward and set in by the flood- 
tide, could drop through, dragging a weight on the end of 


VIEILLE NOIRE—TRIELEN ISLAND. 


473 


her chain instead of the anchor, because of the-rockj’ bot¬ 
tom. 

To navigate this channel, steer N. or S., as the case may Directious, 
be, from the range of Saint-Matthieu light on with the S. 
end of Beniguet, to one-half mile K of La Helle rock, pass¬ 
ing one-third way from Trielen to QmSmenes. To pass out 
S. of the Plateau de la Helle, bring a mill on Molene island 
on with a white beacon on Ledeues de Molbne, astern, and 
steer away E. i N. This latter pass is called the Chenal 
du Las. 

About one-half mile to the southward of the entrance to Vieille Noire, 
the channel, between Quemenes and Trielen, is the Vieille 
Noire, (Groac’hdu.) a rocky patch about IJ cables in extent, 
uncovering 13 feet at low-water springs. Heading up for 
the passage, it is passed to starboard. It lies with the 
church of Le Conquetopeu of the northern end of Beniguet, 
about E. J N., and the eastern Bossemeu a little open of the 
ledge of rocks or outermost breaker running from that 
island, about SE. by E. J E. 

At 6 cables SW. by TVL from Vieille Noire is a small rock 
unnamed, which uncovers 10 feet at low-water springs, with 
3J to 3f fathoms round it. The marks for it are Saint- 
Matthieu light-house nearly in line with the Loudeguet 
rocks, bearing about E. by S., and Molene semaphore a 
little within the W. end of Trielen island, NNW. 

La Helle plateau, comprising a number of rocks and shoals, 
is the northeastern group of the dangers between Ouessant 
and the main. It is miles in length, commencing at If 
miles N. of Quemenes, with a breadth of IJ miles E. and W. 

The most prominent rock is La Helle, which never covers, 
and lies near the western edge, five-sixths mile from the 
northern extremity of the plateau. It presents somewhat 
the appearance of a vessel under sail. 

The bank is separated from Les Platresses by the Chenal 
de la Helle. (See end of chapter.) 

Trielen is a low island, 1,100 yards long NE. and SW., Tric’en island, 
and quite narrow. It is connected by a plateau that dries 
at low w’ater, with Molene island, IJ miles NW. by N. 

Grain is raised in small quantities. It has a salt-w\ater 
pond on its E. end, surrounded by a stony beach. NNW. 

2 J cables from the eastern end, is the He aux Chretiens, a 


474 


MOLEJs’E—BA^^NEC. 


Los Serroux. 

Clou Basseven. 


Molone island. 


Lifo-boat. 
Balance island. 


Bannec island. 


Pierres Vertes^ 


small beacli-looking islet, with black ledges raniiiug from it, 
at low water, in every direction. A long half mile, S. by 
W., from the western end is a large bed of rocks, called Les 
Serroux, visible at all times of tide, except very high 
springs, and of considerable extent at low water. 

Gleu Basseven is a bank about half a mile in length 
ENE. and WSW., and one-fourth of a mile in breadth. A 
spot in the middle of it uncovers 3 feet at low-water springs, 
but elsewhere there are from 1 to 5J fathoms water. The 
eastern Serroux, just open westward of Trielen island, leads 
eastward of the bank. 

Molene is the largest and most important of the islands 
of this archipelago; it is about half a mile in diameter, and 
is connected by a stony isthmus, which dries 12 feet at low 
water, with an islet, called the Ledenes de Molene, one fourth 
of a mile to the northeastward. It is inhabited by about 
550 people engaged in fishing, raising grain, and gathering 
seaweed. The houses are scattered about the island, and 
there are also a church, a semaphore, and a couple of mills.. 
The port, which dries at low water, is on theNB. coast, be¬ 
tween this island and the Ledenes de Molene, which is 2 ca¬ 
bles in extent, and which has a white beacon in the southern 
part. There is anchorage in 3 and 3J fathoms, over sand, at 
one-quarter mile north of the island, but the channel to it 
is tortuous and narrow, and only 11 feet deep at low water. 

A life-boat is stationed on Molene island. 

Balanec islet, miles NNW. from Molene, is half a mile 
in extent NNE. and SS W.; there are a couple of houses and 
some pasture-lands on it. Landing is effected on the SE. 
side, between it and a couple of rocks close to. 

Bannec islet, half a mile long north and south, lying li 
miles N\Y. by W. from Balanec, and 2 miles SSE. ^ E. from 
the eastern point of Ouessant island, is uninhabited. It is 
quite low, the highest part being near the south end, and is 
surrounded by rocks showing at all times, extending half a 
mile to the south-southwestward, and half a mile to the N. 
by W. Men Tensel rock, which uncovers 13 feet, is one- 
third of a mile west of the northernmost of the latter, and 
is the eastern boundary of the Eromveur passage. 

At 2| miles SSW. of Bannec islet are the Pierres Vertes 
which rise from a bank five-sixths of a mile in length NE. 


475 


(■ OUESSANT 1SLA^'D. 

and SW., and uncover 7 feet at low water. At one-third of 
a mile ISl’E. from them, on the same bank, is Goudichoc, 
which also dries 7 feet. The Basse Occidentale des Pierres 
Yertes, in the SW. corner of the plateau, is covered by 4i 
fathoms water. 

These shoals, and others between them and Bannec, form 
the SE. boundary of the Fromveur channel. 

Should a vessel of moderate draught be drifted by the 
currents to the eastward of the Pierres Yertes, a signal 
would soon bring a pilot from Molene, who would take her 
through some one of the passes among the islands and rocks. 

Ouessant, or Ushant island, 11 miles off the coast isi- 

France, between Saint-Matthieu and Melgorne points, is of 
irregular shape, 4J miles long EXE. and WSW., with a 
width of about 2 miles. It is tolerably fertile, affording 
pasture to a good many sheep and horses. In some places 
it is nearly 200 feet high, and can be seen in good weather 
from a distance of 15 to 20 miles, presenting an irregular 
profile. It is composed in great part of huge, rough masses 
of granite. The inhabitants, numbering about 2,500, are 
mostly shepherds and fishermen, many of the latter being 
quite competent to pilot vessels about among the islands 
and shoals to the eastward. 

A great many vessels pass in sight daily, taking a new 
departure for the Mediterranean, the equator, or the AVest 
Indies; in view of this fact telegraphic communication has 
been established with the main-land, and captains, by sig¬ 
naling to either one of the two semaphores, (one near each 
light,) can send messages to any part of the world. 

The coasts of the island are very foul, the northern being 
the least dangerous in that respect. There are but few an¬ 
chorages and those are poor. For these reasons, and, also, 
because the island is often concealed in fogs, and soundings 
are of little avail in determining a ship’s bearing and dis¬ 
tance from it, and the tidal currents run with great velocity 
during spring-tides, it is a source of great uneasiness to 
mariners cruising in the vicinity. It is recommended not 
to approach it nearer than 2 or 3 miles, especially in calm 
weather, because of the currents. 



47G 


CREAC’lI LIGHT—LAMPAUL BAAL 


Cr^ac’h light; 
Lat. 4bo 27' 35" 
; long. 5° 07' 
52" W. 


Life-boat. 

Semaphore. 


Fog-signal. 


Leurvas shoal. 


Lampaul bay. 


On Crcnic’h point, on the XW. coast, stands a circular 
stone tower, 152 feet high, painted in horizontal black and 
white bands, from which is exhibited, at an elevation of 223 
feet above the sea, a revolving light, showing, at intervals 
of 20 seconds^ 2 icMte flashes and 1 red flash in succession. 
The illuminating apparatus is dioptric, of the first order, 
and the light is visible 21 miles. 

A life-boat is stationed on the point, and there is a sema¬ 
phore just to the southward of the light, with the geograph¬ 
ical number B. G. T. 

On Corn-Pern point, the western extreme of the island, 
two-thirds of a mile SSW. from Creac’h light, is a com¬ 
pressed-air trumpet, which, in foggy weather, is sounded for 
2 seconds at intervals of 10 seconds. The blasts may be 
heard 3 miles under favorable circumstances. 

From the latter point shoals project two-thirds of a mile 
to the westward and to the south westward, the farthest in 
the latter direction being the Leurvas, two heads of which 
dry 4 and IS feet respectively. The Corn-Pern rocks, near 
the point, are always visible. 

Lampaul bay, on the southwest coast, extends in 1^ miles, 
with a width averaging about three-fifths of a mile. Bocks 
project out 1^ miles in the prolongation of the southern, 
and two-thirds of a mile in the prolongation of the north¬ 
ern, shore. The depth of wuiter is good, over sand bottom, 
but vessels anchored there are exposed to the fury of the 
SW. gales, which are the most frequent. In the middle of 
the bay is an enormous rock, called Le Corce, which may 
be passed either to starboard or to port. To enter, steer for 
Le Stiff light-tower slightly open to the left of Le Corce, 
and come to ESE. of the latter, in 7 to 12 fathoms water, or 
ENE. of it in 8 fathoms. 

Large vessels often anchor isW. of Le Corce, but small 
craft and coasters frequently come-to SW. of ]Men-ar-Blanc 
tower, (at the head of the bay,) 2 cables off shore. A chain 
lies across the bottom, outside the mole, to catch the an¬ 
chors in case of dragging. 

To avoid the Leurvas rocks and a patch covered by 3 
fathoms a short distance inshore of them, keep Lampaul 
church (the northwestern of two seen at the head of the 
bay) open of the most prominent point of the northern 


PEN-AR EOC'H—PORTZ GUEN. 


477 


shore ot the bay ; to clear Basse Bridy, in the prolougatiou 
ot the southern shore of the bay, miles off, keep Saiut- 
Nicolas chapel (on a beach and to the right ot Lampaulj a 
little open to the right of Le Piligent, a rock which never 
covers, lying 24 cables from the extremity of the 

southern shore. 

The tidal currents are not particularly rapid in the bay, 
but it has been found impossible to beat out against a SW. 
wind and flood-tide. 

A guard-vessel of Brest is generally anchored, in readi- Guard-boat, 
uess to give assistance, in 8 fathoms, between the south 
coast and Le True rock, which is on the point of a plateau 
extending along the north shore, from the head of the bay 
to about 3 cables from Le Corce. 

La Jument (Ar Gazek) rock, IJ miles SSW. from the ex- La Jument. 
tremity of the southern shore of Lampaul bay, dries 19 feet 
in spring tides, and is therefore almost always visible. It 
is the southernmost danger immediately off Ouessant, and 
is cleared in the SE. by keeping the large rock of Eues Nein 
touching the NE. point of the island. 

The SE. coast of Ouessant runs j^E. and SW. 3i miles Pen - ar - Roc’h 

^ anchorage. 

and is bordered by rocks to a distance of one-half mile. A 
long mile from the southern point is the bay of Pen-ar-roc’h, 
where large vessels can come and anchor in G fathoms water 
over sand, at 1 cable eastward from Pen-ar roc’h point, re¬ 
cognizable by a mill a short distance to the northward. 

South of the point are a cluster of rocks, called Les Dibray- 
ers, that are almost always visible. The outermost of these 
is Men Cren, 4 cables off' shore, due south from the mill; it 
only covers in the highest springs. 

To reach the anchorage, the only one of any avail to ves¬ 
sels drawn into the Fromveur passage, pass 300 yards south 
of Men Cren, and close-to to the eastward of it, steering 
north to pass also close to the eastward of Eoc’h Melen and 
Roc’h Neil, two rocks 100 yards off shore which never cover, 
and anchor cables off shore, SE. by E. from the mill. 

Should the current set the vessel to the eastward, there is Portz-Guen. 
anchorage 1 mile to the east-northeastward of that of Pen- 
ar-Roc’h, 1 cable from the shore in 8 to 9i fathoms water, in 
front of Portz-Guen, a small inlet that serves as a rendez¬ 
vous for fishing-boats. There is a rock awash at low water 


478 


LE STIFF LIGHT AND BAY. 


G cables ENE. from the mill, which is avoided bj keeping 
La Jnment on with Roc’h Melen until the little beach to the 
right of the mill bears NW. by N. There are pilots here 
ready to come on board on the hoisting of the signal, what¬ 
ever be the state of the weather. 

Port de Dar- Qq the SE. sliore of Oiiessant, 1 mile from the eastern 

laud. ’ 

point, is the little inlet of Darland; rocks extend one-half 
mile out, but between them is a channel 2 cables wide, with 
depths of 8 to 11 fathoms over sand. 

Basse du From- The outermost shoal east of the eastepii extreme of Oues- 
sant is the Basse du Fromveur, lying three-fourths of a mile 
off, and covered by 8 fathoms. 

Le stiff light: On the NE. point of the island stand two wh te round 
N.;^|ong. 50 03" towers united, 85 feet high, exhibiting, at an elevation of 
272 feet above sea-level, a ?ckite, dioptric, first-order 
light, visible 18 miles. 

Semaphore. A little to the southward of the towers is a semaphore, 
the geographical number of which is B. (>. N. T. 

Baiedn stiff. SE. of this light is Le Stiff bay, two-thirds mile wide at 
the entrance, and extending in to the south westward as 
much as one-half mile in some places. The anchoring ground 
is SE., 1 niile from the light, in 8 to 10 fathoms waiter, sandy 
bottom. To enter it, pass at least one-third mile N W. of Men 
Corn rock, (one-half mile off the east point of the island, and 
marked by a black tow^er;) Gorlebian, near the middle of 
the entrance, and marked by a red tower, should be passed 
cables to starboard. Come-to about 400 yards to the 
southward of it. There is a mooring-buoy in the bay. No 
one is recommended to remain there, because if caught by 
a gale of wind from NE., east, or SE., there would be but 
little chance of saving the vessel or crew. 

B6uiuoa bay. Bcninou bay is on the north shore of the island, between 
the northern point and Keller island. It is half a mile wide 
and two-thirds of a mile deep. The bottom is rock, at 11 
fathoms, and it is open to the N. and NE. The entrance 
is not difficult, but the two currents of the ebb, setting 
respectively S. and SVV. round Keller island, must be 
guarded against. Getting under way, with NE. or N. winds, 
advantage must be taken of the early flood to weather Kel¬ 
ler island, as at half-tide a counter-current sets right into 
the bay. 


CHAUSSEE DE KELLER—RAZ DU FLORtS. 


479 


After lauding in the bay, the top of the cliff is reached by 
an iron ladder hung there. 

Off the north point of the island are several rocks, of ^eCrom. 
which Le Croni, the outermost, is noticeable from having 
three pinnacles; Roc’h ^lel, inshore of it, and much larger, 
may also be distinguished, being visible at all times, with two 
pinnacles. 

Keller island, half a mile westward of the north point of ^Chauss^e de 
Ouessant, is half a mile long, east and west, and affords a ^ 
partial lee to vessels anchored in Beninou bay. To the 
westward of it, the Chaussee of the same name, commonly 
called Floras by fishermen and others, extends miles W. J 

N. The rocks remain awash, at low water, forlmileout; the 
westernmost, Basse Oallet, covered by 11 fathoms water, is 
on the ranges of Le Stiff light-tower on with the top of 
Keller island, and Corn-Pern rocks touching the west ex¬ 
treme of Ouessant. Vessels passing to the northward or 
southward should keep well to the westward of the latter 
range; 4 miles is recommended as the limit of approach 
during spring-tides. 

There is excellent fishing among the rocks of the Chaus¬ 
see. The name of Raz du Florus is given to the rapids on Razdu Fiorus. 
the Chaussee de Keller, which are extremely dangerous 
during spring-tides, especially with the wind against the 
current. The Raz extends from the Corn-Pern rocks to the 
Basse Meur, which is just inside Basse Callet, and covered 
by lOi feet water. The rapids run most swiftly at half-tide, 
the worst being off the western point of the island, between 
Corn-Pern rocks and Crdac’h light. The inhabitants aver 
that the current is stronger than in the Fromveur passage. 

The Haut-Fond d’Ouessant is a bank 1^ miles in extent, ^Haut-Fond d’ 

Otiossant. 

K. by W. and S. by E., with a width of half a mile in the 
middle. It is covered by 25 to 33 fathoms, broken-shell 
bottom, while all round it the depths are 43 to 50 fathoms. 

The northern extremity is 3i miles SSW. of the west end 
of Ouessant. 

To the southward of this bank, SW. from Le Fromveur, 
about 4 miles from La Jument rock, is a bed of yellow loam 
at 45 to 50 fathoms. This is the only place where the fish¬ 
ermen can verify position, during fogs, by the nature of the 
bottom. South of this the bottom is of pebbles, but west 


480 


• FEOMVEUR CHANNEL—CURRENTS. 


Fas sago 
Pixmveur. 


Directions. 


Tides. 


Currents ne 
Duessant and 
the Fromveur. 


of Les Pierres Noires it is rocky excepting the Basse Occi- 
dentale ties Pierres Noires, wliere sand is found at 40 
fathoms. 

du Le Fromveur channel lies between Ouessant island in the 
west and the plateaux of Bannec, Balauec, and other islands 
in the east. The least width is a little less than 1 mile, 
abreast of Men Tensel rock; the depths throughout are 25 
to 40 fathoms, rocky bottom, with a little sand in the mid¬ 
dle of the southern part. 

Directions for navigating in the Fromveur channel vary 
with the stage of the tides, as the currents run through 
with tremendous velocity. The SE. coast of Ouessant must 
not be approached nearer than two-thirds of a mile, unless 
to anchor in the bays described above. Coming from the 
northeastward, round the east end of Ouessant, when about 
1 mile distant, with this end in line with Le Stiff light-tower 
X\V. I W., and the Leodoc rock nearly in one with Bannec 
islet S. I E., steer SW. J for 6 miles, or until the south 
end of Bannec bears KE. by E. J E., or the west end of 
Ouessant N. J W., when, if bound for Brest, a SE. J S. 
course, uninfluenced by the tide, for 11 miles, will lead 
westward -of the Pierres Yertes, and also of the Pierres 
i^oires. 

It is high water, full and change, at Ouessant at 3'*^ 32™. 
Ordinary springs rise 19i feet, neaps 14 feet. 

•ar The current of the flood tide begins to make at low water j 
coming from the south westward it divides into two branches, 
at 2 or 21 miles off La Jument rock. One sets into Le From- 
veur channel, rounds Le Stiff, takes a northwesterly direc¬ 
tion until it rejoins the other, when they run together to the 
northeastward into the English channel. The other branch 
passes outside La Jument, doubles the Chaussee de Keller, 
passing 2 miles from Keller island, and finally continues its 
course northeastward. This lasts throughout the flood- 
tide. 

At half-flood a counter-current is established on the Chaus¬ 
see de Keller, setting south westward on Creac’h point and 
Corn-Pern. This eddy lasts 6 hours, or uutil half-ebb, when 
it is slack water for 1 or li hours, or even 2 hours during 
neaps; the regular current of the ebb is then felt until low 
water. So that inside of 2 miles off the K\Y. coast of Ones- 


CURRENTS. 


481 


sant, there is a current running SW. for 9 hours, interrupted 
only by about hours of slack water. Among the rocks close 
inshore, however, there is still another eddy running NE. 

In the Fromveur the current of the flood makes straight 
through. It lasts 6 hours; but close to the shore of Oues- 
sant it begins at the fourth hour of the ebb, lasting until 2 
hours after high water. In mid-channel it attains a speed 
of 9 knots during spring-tides, and 4 knots during neaps, 
being most dangerous between Men Tensel and Men-ar- 
Froud. 

To leave the Fromveur channel (in the northward) dur¬ 
ing the flood-tide it is best to pass rather close to Men Ten¬ 
sel to avoid Men-Gorn and other rocks off the eastern point 
of Ouessant, as the current sets on them during the first 
three hours of the flood tide j afterward the direction is 
more northerly. This obtains during spring-tides. 

The middle of the channel should be kept until nearly 
abreast of Bannec, because a too close approach to the 
Pierres Yertes would put a vessel in danger of being swept 
on them or on the shoals to the northward. 

During neap tides the current of the flood runs to the SE. 
on La Helle and Les Platresses, during the first 4 hours, 
and as it is very swift, advantage is taken of it to beat in 
against a SE. wind through Le Four and La Helle channels. 
During the last 2 hours the current sets E., NE. and N., 
but is much more feeble. 

The current of the ebb-tide runs SW. in the Fromveur 
channel j but during springs it is sometimes met by the 
beginning of the flood and deflected to NNW. and N. out¬ 
side the island, before low water. There is more danger 
with a weather ebb-tide than a weather flood-tide, in the 
Fromveur. 

Pilots do not regard this passage as being dangerous; 
they often take ships through bound for the English chan¬ 
nel, and save considerable time. 

Vessels bound to Brest generally try to make the land¬ 
fall at Ouessant island. In clear weather it is indubitably 
the best; during fogs also it has the great advantage of 
being high and bold, and with no rocks more than 1 mile 
to the northward, westward, or southward. In this respect 
its evident preferableness to the Chauss^e de Sein need not 
31 N c 


Caution. 


Ebb-tide. 


Landfall. 


482 


LANDFALL. 


be dwelt upon. Vessels coming from the southwestward 
make Penmarc’h point sometimes, and shorten the course 
considerably by running through the Eaz de Sein. The 
objections to so doing consist in the danger of being em¬ 
bayed off Audierne, (if in a sailing-vessel,) or of bringing 
up on Les Gldnans. 

Thick weather. In attempting to make Ouessant from the westward in 
thick weather, there are considerations that should be well 
weighed. Of these the principal is, that the same depths 
will be found in very different latitudes and longitudes, and 
therefore the lead would not be a safe nor a convenient 
guide. Apart from the question of soundings, in case the 
range of vision were limited to 3 or 4 miles, a very ordinary 
error in latitude might make the ship pass the island and 
put her near the other islands and shoals to the eastward, 
when to a captain unfamiliar with their aspect there would 
be doubt as to whether they were the rocks of Porsal, the 
Chaussee des Pierres Noires, or the Ohaussee de Sein. 
There is also the possibility of confounding Ouessant with 
the He de Sein j the danger is very greatly reduced by the 
establishment of new lights in the vicinity of the latter. 
(See page 418.) 

From whatever point a vessel may come, if it be too thick 
to sight land 2 miles off, it would be extremely imprudent 
to run for Ouessant, because the currents in the vicinity are 
so swift that this distance would not be sufficient to insure 
clearing the rocks by bringing by the wind immediately ; 
indeed, no vessel should come into less than 70 fathoms 
water in the vicinity. Coming from the southward only can 
much assistance be derived from the lead j warning would 
then be given of the proximity of the Ohaussee de Sein or 
the Chaussee des Pierres Noires. For this reason Ouessant 
should be approached in longitude. 

the%lianei^of parallel of Ouessant the soundings are irregular 

Ouessant island, until reaching longitude 8° 05' west; they then become 
more regular, though it will be remarked that the depths, 
which decrease generally as the island is approached, fre¬ 
quently undergo variations of two or more fathoms, either 
way. Thus, at 48 miles westward, depths of 72, 71, and 70 
fathoms, will be found over a yellowish-white bottom, re¬ 
sembling marl, and covered by a powdery coating present- 


HATJT-FOND DE LA CHAPELLE. 


483 


la Chapelle. 


ing the appearance of farina mixed with bran, which is in¬ 
termixed with pieces of shell and a substance like chaff; at 
27 miles from the island the same bottom is found at 66 to 
63 fathoms, and at less than 9 miles off are depths of 65 
fathoms. So not only should a vessel remain in at least 65 
fathoms water in thick weather, but should sound fre¬ 
quently. 

A very wise precaution taken by many vessels coming Haut-Fondde 
from seaward, is to verify their longitude by sounding on 
the Little Sole bank, latitude 48^ 30' X., longitude 9® 20' 

W. For some reasons it may be preferable to do that on 
the meridian of the Haut-Fond de la Chapelle, latitude 47^ 

35' N., longitude 7^ 20' W. In the first place, the distance 
of the latter from the meridian of Ouessant is about one- 
half that of the former, and the chances of error in reckon¬ 
ing after leaving it should be in the same proportion. Sec¬ 
ondly, to be certain of finding the Little Sole Bank, it is 
necessary to have the latitude to within 10 miles; while to 
find the other with uncertain latitude, it is only required to 
know the longitude to within about 1 degree, proceeding as 
follows: 

Between the meridians of 7° 40' W. and 9° 30' W., depths 
of 110 to 165 fathoms will be found only between the paral¬ 
lels of 480 and 48o 20' K Being then somewhere be¬ 
tween these two meridians, find bottom at between 110 and 
165 fathoms by running north or south, as the estimated lat 
itude would advise. That done, and the latitude fixed at 
480 10' within 10' either way, run south 20 miles, and 
then steer east until the same depths are found again, which 
can only be between the meridians of 7o 20' W. and 7o 30 | 

W. The longitude is now known to be within a few miles 
of 70 25' W., and a closer approximation to the latitude may 
consequently be obtained. 

It would be advisable in following the above directions to 
run out the full 165 fathoms of line, so as to be sure of being 
within the required limits; because, while the lead may 
show a greater depth than actually exists, it cannot well 
show less. 

Having brought the latitude and longitude both within 
tolerably narrow limits, should the weather continue thick 
it might be best to steer E. or EIS’E., being certain of being 


Caution, 


484 


MAKING OUESSANT FROM THE WESTWARD. 


S. of the Cbauss^e de Sein, and follow the rules'given on 
page 420 for doubling the latter and entering the Iroise. 

To make Ones- The following' rule for finding Ouessant in a fog, taken 
th^weSwaid.*^”^ from a work by Captain H. de Roujoux, of the French navy, 
can only be safely applied when the range of vision exceeds 
3 miles. 

Having an approximate knowledge of the latitude, make 
certain of being to the southward of latitude 48° 15' 
and steer E. until in about 66 fathoms water, and then 
apply the rules embodied in the following table: 


Table V. 


Soundings reduced to low water. 

Courses to be 
steered, 
(true.) 

Maximum dis¬ 
tance between 
soundings. 

Over fiO fflthoTns _____ 

NE. 

3 miles. 

3 or 6 miles.* 

3 or 6 miles.* 

6 or 3 miles. 

"Retween 55 and fiO fathoms__ 

nne. 

Between 49 and .'i.'i fathoms.___ 

NW.orNt.... 
W. or KW J ... 

Less than 49 fathoms. ....... 



* Six miles, if certain of not being near Penmarc’h point, while running N. or NE. 

t Steer north only when certain of not approaching Penmarc’h point. 

I The 6 miles on a W. course may be changed to 3 miles on a NW. course, when 
certain of being to the northward or westward of the Chauss^e de Sein, as previously 
explained. 

If it be calm weather, the fog trumpet on the W. point 
of Ouessant may be heard 3 miles, and should at all events 
be carefully listened for. It is the only one in the vicinity. 

Caution. Should a sailing-vessel adopt this plan, with a southerly 

breeze, a particularly bright lookout should be kept, and it 
may be necessary on sighting the island to run through the 
Fromveur channel, or stand out to the westward. In the 
latter case a good offing should be made to clear the Chaus- 
s6e de Keller. The iirobability of having to do either would 
be great if the flood-tide be making. With the current and 
wind from the same direction, there would not be much sea 
in the Fromveur. 

Coming up from the southward, should a glimpse be 
caught of land not very far ahead, a cast of the lead would 
determine whether it were Ouessant or He de Sein. If the 
depth were 43 to 50 fathoms, it would be the former, as 27 
fathoms is the greatest depth for 7 miles S. of He de Sein. 
It must also be remembered, however, that at 3 miles S. by 
W. of the western extremity of Ouessant, rocky bottom 

















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COURSE TO BREST. 


485 


would be found at 27 fathoms, on the Haut Fond d’Oues- 
sant. 

Soundings are of little avail to vessels coming from the Coming from 
northward, as depths of 40 and 50 fathoms are 
close-to without any regularity of decrease from which rules 
could be deduced. To compensate in part for this, it will 
bo remembered that the N. coast of Ouessant can be ap¬ 
proached much closer than the southern, although the same 
danger exists from the currents, particularly from the Raz 
du Floras, previously described. 

Sighting the island either from the southward or the ^Appearance of 
northward, a glimpse of Ci^ac^h light-tower would be suffi¬ 
cient to identify it, from its being painted in alternate black 
and white horizontal stripes. Apart from that, the top of 
the island is nearly level, about 200 feet high in the eastern 
part, decreasing in height to the westward, and has a few 
mills scattered over it. 

The course to double the Basse Occidentale des Pierres course from 
Noires from near La Jument rock, off the S. end of Ones- 
sant, is SE. ^ S., leaving tides out of the question ; other¬ 
wise, the course will depend upon the speed of the ship in 
proportion to that of the currents. The shoal should be 
given a good berth. There are depths, however, of 10 
fathoms for one-third mile K, NE., and E. of it. In case 
of being drifted N. of it, it would be well to sight Pierres 
Noires light-tower, and pass 1 mile or more S. of it, steering 
E. by S. parallel with the edge of the Ghaussee, finally mak¬ 
ing the range of Petit Minou and Portzic light-towers. 

The Ouessant pilots do not cruise to meet vessels, but Pilots, 
only put out on seeing a vessel heading for the island or for 
the Iroise. It is well, therefore, to make the signal early. 

What vessels have most to fear in taking a pilot is being 
becalmed 2 miles SW. of La Jument at low water, as the 
current of the flood would set them on the Corn-Pern 
rocks. 

With light SSW. breezes and flood-tide a ship should be^^Taking the pi- 
hove-to for the pilot at least 2 miles to the westward of the 
Corn-Pern rocks. The current would be setting outside the 
Chaussee de Keller. During the ebb-tide there would be 
nothing to fear. 

With N. or NW. winds, heave-to li miles WSW. of La 


486 


PILOTS—CHENAL DU FOUR. 


C b en al 
Four. 


Currents. 


Directions. 


Jument; with winds from W., remain 3 miles to windward 
of Corn-Pern 5 from WSW., 3 miles to windward of La Ju¬ 
ment 5 from S., 3 miles SW. of La Jument j from SE., quite 
close to Corn-Pern rocks 5 from E., one-half mile S. of La 
Jument. 

With NW., K, NE., and E. winds the pilots reach vessels 
quite promptly, but with WNW. to SW. winds they take 
two hours to go from Lampaul to La Jument. They can 
make nothing against a head wind and tide, 
du The Chenal du Four is formed by the rocks and shoals 
bordering the coast N. of Saint-Matthieu point, and the 
vast plateau comprising the numerous islands and rocks 
between Ouessant and the main land. The depth is over 7 
fathoms N. of Grande Yinotiere rock, and 5 fathoms can be 
kept throughout. From Les Yieux Moines, off Saint-Mat¬ 
thieu point, to Basse Meur, the length of the passage is 11 
miles. 

In the Chenal du Four the tidal currents attain a speed 
of 41 knots at springs ; during neaps the strength is much 
less, but abreast of La Grande Yinotiere they still run 3 
knots. The set of the flood-tide is NNW.j that of the ebb 
SSE. The latter is first felt, ofl* Kermorvan point, at the 
time of high water at Brest; at Les Platresses one half 
hour later; between La Grande Yinotiere and Beniguet 
island it sets toward and on Les Bossemen during the first 
two hours, flowing to the eastward of them afterward. 

The current of the flood-tide is first felt off Kermorvan 
peninsula 1 hour before the time of low water at Brest; at 
Les Platresses 1 hour after, and at Le Four IJ hours, and 
at La Helle 2 hours after. 

When bound through the Chenal du Four from the north¬ 
ward, bring the light-towers on Kermorvan and Saint-Mat¬ 
thieu points in line, bearing SSE. By steering this course 
a wide berth will be given to the Boureau bank, and a ves¬ 
sel will pass to the westward of Basse Meur, La Yalbelle, 
and Tendoc, and to the eastward of Basse Saint-Louis and 
Les Platresses. On nearing the latter, great attention must 
be paid to keep the mark on, as the channel between them 
and La Yalbelle is but half a mile wide. 

Continue to the SSE. on the above range until 1 mile from 
LeConquet light-tower, (on Kermorvan point,) when steer S. 


CHENAL DU FOUR. 


487 


by J for the eastern Bossemen. After making IJ 
miles on this course, or when Le Oonquet church bears 
ENE., the ship’s head may be laid to pass 1 mile SW. of 
Saint-Matthieu point. When off the latter, the red buoy of 
the Basse du Chenal will be seen half a mile in the south- 
westward, and the course may be gradually changed to SSE. 
and SE., avoiding Les Yieux Moines, and bringing Petit 
Minou and Portzic light-towers in range. 

Vessels of heavy draught, after steering on the range of caution. 

Le Oonquet and Saint-Matthieu light towers, should change 
course to the southward in time to pass 2 cables westward 
of the black and red tower-beacon on La Grande Yinotibre, 
as to the eastward of it are several patches with not more 
than 3J and 3J fathoms water. Passing La Grande Yino- 
tibre, steer for the eastern Bossemen, about S. J W. until Le 
Oonquet steeple bears ENE., when shape the course to pass 
1 mile from Saint-Matthieu point. 

If bound to the northward through this channel, steer N. no^thward.^ 
f E. for Le Oonquet light, until that of Saint-Matthieu bears 
ESE., when a N. by W. course will lead toward the Grande 
Yinoti^re, which will be passed to starboard. The ship may 
then head north, finally making and keeping (astern) the 
range of the two light-towers. 

It is tolerably easy to beat through the Ghenal du through^ ting 
with the ebb-tide against a SSE. breeze ; but to work up to 
the northward with the flood-tide against a NW. breeze is 
less so, as there is generally a bad chop-sea on, particularly 
during spring-tides. 

South of the Basse du Ghenal the boards may be ex-. Limits of work- 
tended far away to the eastward ; in the west the limit is 
the western Bossemen on with Gorsen point, to clear the 
Basse Large. The Basse Eoyale (4 fathoms) is included 
within this limit. 

Between the Basse du Ghenal and the Grande Yinoti^re, 
the narrowest part of the channel, the limits are: in the 
east, Le Oonquet light-tower on with Oorsen point, except- 
ing near the Basse des Eenards, which is cleared by keep¬ 
ing the SE. end of the sand-beach of Portzpoder bay open 
to the left of Le Oonquet light j in the west. La Grande 
Yinotiere beacon slightly open to the right of Goaltock rock. 

In beating through the Ghenal du Four, the greatest dif- AnchorageB. 


488 


CHENAL DE LA HELLE. 


Chenal 

Helle. 


Acuities a vessel has to contend against are, that the land¬ 
marks cannot always be seen, and that the breeze may not 
be steady. In either case the only resource is to anchor. 

At half a mile south of the Basse du Chenal, with Es- 
pagnols point (eastern extreme of the southern shore of the 
Goulet) well open to the right of Petit Minou light, and Le 
Diamant rock open to the right of Les Chemin^es, sand and 
gravel will be found at 11 to 12 fathoms. 

At 3 cables to the southward and eastward of Les Re- 
nards beacon, westward of a ruined battery on shore, are 
depths of fathoms over sand and shells. 

In I’Anse des Blancs Sablons, and all along the coast be¬ 
tween the islet north of Kermorvan peninsula and Oorsen 
point, are depths of 8 fathoms, sand, shells, and gravel bot¬ 
tom, at one-half to three-quarters mile off shore. Between 
the Basse Saint-Pierre and Corsen point is also good hold¬ 
ing-ground. 

On the range of Le Conquet and Saint-Matthieu lights 
the anchors generally hold well; the sand bottoms are 
nearer the land, and rock nearer the islands. I^orth of Les 
Platresses are depths of 22 to 27 fathoms, and between that 
bank and Kermorvan 11 fathoms, 
de la The Chenal de la Helle is practicable for the largest ves¬ 
sels, and is very convenient for such as seek the Chenal du 
Four with a SW. wind, after making the northern side of 
Ouessant. It is formed by the Plateau de la Helle and Les 
Platresses, and is IJ miles wide and about 3 miles long, 
KW. and SE. The range leading through is Le Conquet 
light-tower on with the Pignons de K6ravel, (two white bea¬ 
cons situated half a mile KE. of Saint-Matthieu light,) SE. 

I S. Two shoals nearly in mid-channel, covered by 5i and 
6 fathoms respectively, are avoided by keeping the Pignons 
a little open to the right of the light-tower. 

The limit of the working-room on the SW. side of the 
channel is Lochrist church slightly open to the northward 
of Le Conquet light. On the side of Les Platresses, the 
ship should go about at 3 cables from the buoys, or when 
Saint-Matthieu light-tower is seen midway between that of 
Le Conquet and the Grande Yinotiere tower-beacon. 


APPENDIX. 


SPAIX. 

QUARANTINE. 

Ship-owners, before sending their vessels from a British or 
a foreign port to Spain, should always ascertain if the port 
of departure is ‘^suspected” by the Spanish quarantine au¬ 
thorities. The fact can usually be ascertained through the 
columns of the Shipping and Mercantile Gazette, 

If the vessel is bound for a port on the south or east coast 
of Spain, and the port of departure is “suspected,” it will 
always be the cheapest plan for the vessel to proceed to 
Vigo bay and there perform the quarantine of seven days. 

TONNAGE DUES. 

1. All vessels arriving at Spanish ports in ballast are now 
admitted free of all port dues and charges whatever; con¬ 
sequently British ships conveying outward freights to the 
western ports of France can proceed to the northern ports 
in Spain for cargoes of iron-ore, &c., and then compete 
with French vessels in the carrying-trade to Great Britain. 

2. In lieu of the former charges of light, anchorage, load¬ 
ing and unloading, entrance, consumption, and pratique 
dues, a uniform charge is now made of 10 reals per 1,000 
kilograms (1,015J kilograms=l ton) on all cargoes imported j 
and the exportation of goods and native produce is free of 
port dues. Vessels ordered into quarantine have to pay 
one-fourth of a real per register ton per day. 

3. Vessels with cargo in transit are free. When charter¬ 
ing for Spain, ship-masters should bear in mind that they 
are liable to pay the import duty of Is. (5 reals) per ton of 
1,000 kilograms on cargo delivered, unless otherwise stipu¬ 
lated in the charter-party. The following clause would pro- 



490 


SPANISH CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. 


Ballast tax. 


vide against this: ^‘The consignee shall pay the duty re¬ 
quired by the Spanish customs.” Vessels proceeding from 
one Spanish port to another are also liable to the same 
charge. 

By a decree of the 9th of March, 1872, this tax is abol¬ 
ished in all Spanish ports. 

SPANISH CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. 

1. All captains of vessels, on entering Spanish waters, 
(11 kilometers 111 meters, or 6 miles from the coast,) are 
obliged to have, ready drawn up, a manifest in Spanish, 
French, English, or in the language of the nation to which 
the ship belpngs, and to present the said manifest to the 
custom-house officers if called upon to do so. 

In the said manifest shall be set forth : 

(1.) The class and name of the vessel, her tonnage, nation¬ 
ality, and crew, the name of the captain, and the port or 
ports from whence she comes. 

(2.) The port or ports of destination of the goods. 

(3.) The number, class, marks, and numeration and gross 
weight, in kilograms, of all packages on board, including 
the venture goods brought by the crew on their account, 
the class and kind of goods, and the names of all the ship¬ 
pers and consignees, or a statement that the goods come to 
order—all separately for each port of destination. Passen¬ 
gers can only be consignees of the goods they carry with 
them, the duty on which must not exceed 250 pesetas, and 
the crew can only be consignees of their venture goods, the 
duty on which must not exceed 100 pesetas. 

The number and weight of the packages shall be set forth 
in words and figures. 

The word “merchandise” and similar vague expressions 
shall not be used. Loose cargoes shall be set forth accord¬ 
ing to their weight, tale, or measure. 

(4.) The total number of passengers and their packages 
separately for each port of destination. 

(5.) The class and quantity of iron carried as ballast; and, 

(6.) The ship’s provisions and stores, and the effects for the 
defense of the vessel. The surplus provisions shall be 
landed officially under the prescribed formalities, if the cap¬ 
tain refuses to pay the duty. 


SPANISH CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. 


491 


With regard to tobacco, one kilogram for each member of 
the crew, and three for the captain, are allowed to be 
brought as rations, and shall remain deposited on board the 
vessel. The captain may bring as much as three kilograms 
for each member of the crew, declaring them as surplus ra¬ 
tions, in which case the tobacco shall be deposited in the 
custom-house until the vessel sails. 

If he brings larger quantities of tobacco he shall pay the 
tariff duty on the excess. 

In the case of damage to the goods, the captain shall 
state at the bottom of his manifest that he has made, or in¬ 
tends to make, the necessary protest before the court which 
takes cognizance of commercial matters, at the first port at 
which he may touch, of which protest he shall present legal 
testimony to the administrator of the custom-house within 
three days after the admission of the vessel to free pratique. 
Bulk shall not be broken until the above formalities are 
concluded. 

If the captain has not the manifest drawn up on entering 
Spanish waters, or does not present it on receiving the en¬ 
trance visit, he is liable to a fine of 1,000 pesetas. 

If the manifest be defective, the fine shall range from 100 
to 1,000 pesetas. 

2. The captain shall also present, on arrival, or be liable 
to a fine of 100 pesetas, a list of the names of the passen¬ 
gers who are to land at the port, and of the number of pack¬ 
ages belonging to each one, setting forth also the quantity 
of tobacco belonging to them. 

3. The captain shall admit on board his vessel a guard of 
custom-house officers, and shall allow the administrator of 
the custom-house, or person appointed by him, to make one 
or more examinations of the vessel to place the official 
band on, and to seal the hatchways, bulkheads, and other 
departments, and to examine the log-book, inventory, bills 
of lading, and other papers on board, which the captain 
shall at once hand over on being called upon to do so. 

4. The captain shall within twenty-four hours, counting 
from the admission of the vessel to free pratique, present 
two copies of the manifest in Spanish and on the paper pre¬ 
scribed for that purpose. If he neglects to do so, or if the 
copies do not agree with the original, he is liable to a fine 


492 


SPANISH CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. 


of 250 pesetas, and must also present them, or make them 
again, according to circumstances. If the vessel be going 
to several ports, the copies shall be three, in order that one 
of them, authorized by the administrator, maybe presented 
at the transit custom-houses, so as to avoid a fine of 500 
pesetas. The captain will be responsible for discrepancies. 

With regard to the said custom-houses, the captain shall 
only include in the copies of the manifest, to be presented 
within the space of time and in the form aforesaid, the goods 
for each custom-house j and if the copies do not agree with 
the general manifest he shall pay a fine of 50 pesetas, and 
be obliged to make fresh copies. 

5. No made-up clothes or woven goods can be carried in 
transit except in vessels which, measuring at least 120 met¬ 
rical tons, come to our ports to complete their cargoes for 
America or Asia. 

Nor will the carrying of prohibited merchandise be per¬ 
mitted, with the exception of the various kinds of tobacco 
coming from abroad, which will be allowed under the fol¬ 
lowing conditions: 

1. The vessel must be a steamship, and be of at least 300 
tons burden. 

2. The master must be provided with a certificate of the 
Spanish consul at the port of shipment, in which must be 
inserted the number, class, marks, numeration, and gross 
weight of the packages, the quantity and quality of the 
tobacco, the name of the shipper, and of the port of desti¬ 
nation, and this certificate shall be vis6d at all the Spanish 
transit custom-houses. 

3. The same particulars must be stated in the captain’s 
manifest, and it will be necessary for the captain to enter 
into a bond at the first custom-house at which he touches, 
in order to prove the discharge of the cargo at the port of 
destination, together with a certificate of the Spanish con¬ 
sul, and this bond must be at the rate of 14 pesetas per 
kilogram, whatever be the class or real value of the tobacco. 

4. That the port of destination shall not be the port of 
lading, nor any of those at which the ship may have touched 
during her voyage. 

5. That on the wrappers of the packages must be noted 


SPANISH CUSTOMS REOULATIONS. 


493 


the gross weight of each, which must be in no case less 
than 46 kilograms, as well their destiuation. 

6. That all packages must be placed in the ship’s hold, 
properly separated, so that they may be easily examined at 
the transit custom-houses. 

The transit of other merchandise will be permitted in 
vessels, either steam or sailing, under the condition of 
theit not being of less than 300 metrical tons, with no other 
restriction except that the port of destination be not the 
port of lading or any one at which the vessel may have 
touched during her voyage. 

No ship shall touch at any Spanish port which is not 
habilitated for the goods she may have on board, unless 
forced to do so by circumstances beyond her control, which 
must be stated and proved in due form without relieving 
the captain from the obligation of presenting immediately his 
manifest. In this case the customs-officers are to be ad¬ 
mitted on board, and they will not allow the loading or 
unloading of any merchandise. 

7. Moreover, the captain will incur a fine in the following 
cases, and to the following amounts : 

1. For changing his anchorage without permission of the 
customs authorities, he shall pay from 50 to 250 pesetas, 
and shall not be allowed to leave until they are presented. 

For not inserting in the manifest the lingots of iron car¬ 
ried as ballast, or for not stating their weights correctly, 
the captain shall pay from fiv^e to ten times the tariff dues, 
according to the increase or decrease. 

4. When ship’s stores are not reported in the manifest, 
the captain shall pay from five to ten times the correspond¬ 
ing tariff dues. 

5. For each package reported in the manifest and not 
found on board, the captain shall pay 750 pesetas. 

6. For each package that is found on board and not re¬ 
ported in the manifest, the captain shall pay from five to 
ten times tariff duties on the article contained therein. 

7. For the breakage, removal, or alteration of official 
seals or bands on the hatchways, the captain shall pay 250 
pesetas in addition to any other penalty he may have in¬ 
curred. 

8. For breaking official bands placed on packages on 


494 


SPANISH CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. 


board, the captain shall pay 750 pesetas, as well as any 
other fines he may have incurred. 

9. For unloading, without the customs’ permission, goods 
reported in the manifest, the captain shall pay double du¬ 
ties, and if the same were not reported, from five to ten 
times the duties. 

10. When the consignees’ declaration as regards loose 
cargo agrees with the result of the custom-house examina¬ 
tion, and a decrease is found in the manifest, the captain 
shall pay double duty for the difference. If the difference 
should be an increase, he shall pay duty on the excess as 
shown in the manifest. 

11. For. an excess in the gross weight of more than 10 
per cent., the captain shall pay ten times the unlading dues, 
and he shall pay the same for excesses occurring on the 
same scale in loose cargoes, as well as any other fines he 
may have incurred according to the foregoing rule. 

12. For each package declared in transit, and not found 
at the time of the search, the captain shall pay TSOpesetasj 
and in the case of loose cargoes, from five to ten times the 
tariff dues on the missing part. 

13. For each package found on board, and not reported 
in the transit manifest, the captain shall pay from five to 
ten times the tariff duties on the same. 

14. For the transfer from one vessel to another, without 
customs’ permission, of foreign goods liable to duty, for 
goods of the country liable to exportation dues, the captain 
shall pay from five to ten times the tariff duty. 

15. For the same fault in the case of foreign or national 
goods duty free, the captain shall pay from 50 to 500 pese¬ 
tas, at the administrator’s discretion. 

16. For discrepancies as regards packages, or goods in 
loose cargoes, discovered during transshipment to have been 
omitted in the manifestf see cases 5 and 6 of this rule. 

17. If the transshipped goods are not found on board of 
the receiving-ship after clearance, the captain will pay 750 
pesetas for each package, and from five to ten times the 
duty in the case of loose cargoes. 

18. The captain will pay double or quadruple duties in 
the following cases: 


SPANISH TONNAGE. 


(1.) For manufactured tobacco not reported in tlie mani¬ 
fest. 

(2.) For surplus stores which remain on board, or are re¬ 
embarked and are not to be found on the outgoing visit be¬ 
ing made. 

' (3.) If tobacco, stated to be carried in transit, be not found 
on the anchorage visit being made. 

19. The conveyance of leaf-tobacco is prohibited. Any 
tobacco of this sort found on board, except in the case pro¬ 
vided for by rule 5, will be confiscated, and the captain 
shall pay a fine of from twice to four times the tariff duty. 

20. Tobacco of all kinds brought in transit to a licensed 
imrt in ships of less than 300 metrical tons, will be confis¬ 
cated, and the captain shall incur a fine of from twice to 
four times the duty. 


SPANISH TONNAGE. 

Eule for ascertaining a vessePs Spanish tonnage: Let A 
be the length from stem to stern-post; B the breadth, meas¬ 
ured across the main deck amidships; C the breadth, but 
measured outside, that is, including the thickness of the 
sides of the vessel; D, depth of hold: 

Then the Spanish tonnage 

or, one-quarter of the length added to three times the inside 
breadth, multiplied by the outside breadth and by the depth 
of hold, divided by 70.19. If the depth of the space between 
decks should be less than 6 feet, 10 per cent, will be added ; 
and if more than 6 feet, 14 per cent. If vessels of larger 
burden, without inside boarding, 8 per cent will be added. 
If with much dead rise of floor-timbers, 5 per cent, will be 
deducted. Spanish tons may be found also by adding 23 
per cent, to the British register tonnage. 



496 


REDUCTION OF ENGLISH AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT, 


Table for the reduction of English avoirdupois loeight into 

hilograms. 

The weight now adopted by the Spanish custom-house authorities in 
the island of Cuba. 


English 

pounds. 

Kilograms.^ 

French or 
Spanish 
kilograms. 

English 

pounds. 

t 

‘ Kilograms.^ 

French or 
" Spanish 
kilograms. 

1 

f 

0.4536 

51 

23| 

23.1323 

2 


0. 9071 

52 

23f 

23.5858 

3 


1.3607 

53 

24 

24. 0394 

4 

n 

1.8142 

54 

24^ 

24.4929 

5 


2. 2679 

55 

25 

24. 9466 

6 

n 

2.7214 

56 

25f 

25.4001 

7 

3^ 

3.1750 

57 

25f 

25. 8537 

8 

3f 

3.6286 

58 

26i 

26. 3073 

9 

4 

4. 0823 

59 

26f 

26.7614 

10 

4i 

4.5357 

60 

27i 

27. 2144 

11 

5 

4.9893 

61 

27f 

27.6680 

12 

5f 

5. 4428 

62 

28i 

28.1215 

13 

5-fo 

5. 8964 

63 

28f 

28.5751 

14 

6^ 

6. 3499 

64 

29 

29. 0286 

15 

6| 

6.8036 

65 

29i 

29.4823 

16 

7i 

7.2571 

66 

30 

29.9358 

17 

7f 

7. 7107 

67 

30f 

30.3894 

18 


8.1643 

68 

30f 

30. 8430 

• 19 

8f 

8. 6180 

69 

31i 

31. 2967 

20 

9 

9. 0715 

70 

31f 

31.7501 

21 


9.5251 

71 

32i 

32.2037 

22 

10 

9. 9786 

72 

32§ 

32. 6572 

23 

lol¬ 

10. 4322 

73 

33^ 

33.1108 

24 

lop 

10. 8857 

74 

33f 

33.5643 

25 

11^ 

11. 3394 

75 

34 

34.0180 

26 

Ilf 

11.7930 

76 

34i 

34.4715 

27 

12i 

12.2465 

77 

35 

34.9251 

28 

12| 

12.7001 

78 

35f 

35. 3787 

29 

13i 

13.1538 

79 

35f 

35.8324 

30 

13f 

13. 6072 

80 

36i 

36.2858 

31 

14 

14.0608 

81 

36f 

36. 7394 

32 

144 

14.5143 

82 

37^ 

37.1929 

33 

15 

14. 9679 

83 

37§ 

37.6465 

34 

15f 

15. 4214 

84 

38 

38.1000 

35 

15f 

15. 8751 

85 

38f 

38.5537 

36 

164 

16. 3286 

86 

39 

39. 0072 

37 

16f 

16. 7822 

87 

39f 

39. 4608 

38 

17i 

17.2358 

88 

39^9o- 

39. 9144 

39 

17| 

17.6895 

89 

40,V 

40. 3681 

40 

18\ 

18.1429 

90 

40f 

40. 8215 

41 

18f 

18. 5965 

91 

41i 

41.2751 

42 

19 

19.0500 

92 

41f 

41. 7286 

43 

194 

19.5036 

93 

42f 

42.1822 

44 

20 

19. 9571 

94 

42f 

42. 6357 

45 

m 

20. 4108 

95 

43 

43. 0894 

46 

20f 

20. 8643 

96 

43i 

43.5429 

47 

214 

21. 3179 

97 

44 

43. 9965 

48 

21f 

21.7715 

98 

44f 

44.4501 

49 

224 

22.2253 

99 

44-1^ 

44. 9038 

50 

224 

22.6787 

100 

45i 

45.3576 
































TABLES OF WEIGHTS AND MONEY, 


497 


Table for the reduction of English avoirdupois weight into 

kilograms —Continued. 


English 

pounds. 

Kilograms.* 

French or 
Spanish 
kilograms. 

1 

English 

pounds. 

1 

i 

Kilograms. * 

French or 
Spanish 
kilograms. 

101 

4.5| 

45. 8112 

1 

i 107 

484 

48.5326 

102 

46\ 

46.2647 

108 

49 

48.9862 

103 

46f 

46.7183 

109 

494 

49. 4399 

104 


47.1718 

i no 

494 

49. 8933 

10.5 

47f 

47. 6255 

111 

50-4 

50. 3469 

106 

48 

48. 0790 

112 

504 

50. 8006 

Cwt. 

1 

50^ 

50. 8006 

i Cwt. 

11 

5584 

558.8071 

2 

lOli 

101.6012 

12 

6094 

609. 6077 

3 

152f 

152. 4018 

13 

660f 

660. 4083 

4 

203J- 

203. 2024 

14 

7114 

711.2089 

5 

254 

254.0050 

15 

7(52 

762.0095 

6 

3044 

304.8036 

16 

8124 

812.8101 

7 

3554 

3.55. 6042 

i 17 

8634 

863. 6107 

8 

406f 

406. 4048 

! 18 

9144 

914.4113 

9 

4574 

457. 20.54 

i 19 

9654 

965.2118 

10 

508 

508. 0065 

20 

1016 

1016. 0130 


These tables have been calculated ou the basis of 1 kilogram = 2.2047 
pounds English avoirdupois. 

The columns marked thus ^ give the equivalent for English pounds in 
vulgar fractions as nearly as required for ordinary purposes, which may 
be considered quite sufficient for the general requirements of commerce. 

For more accurate calculations the exact equivalent of the English 
weight stands by the side, giving the number of kilograms with four 
decimals. 


MONEY. 

j Spanish. 

English. 

American. 

1 real . 

1 peseta. 

10 reals.? 

1 escudo ... 5 

20 reals.( 

1 duro.3 

1 doubloon... 

2^d . 

lOd. 

2s. Id. 

4s, 2d. 

£3 6s. 8d. 

5 cents. 

20 cents. 

.50 cents. 

1 dollar. 

16 dollars. 


32 N c 
































498 


FRENCH TONNAGE DUES. 


MEASURES. 

WEIGHTS. 

Spanish. 

English. 

Spanish. 

English. 

1 pulgada . 

1 sesma. 

1 pie. 

1 vara . 

Liqx 

1 arroha.I 

1 quartillo. 

1 

0. 926 inch. 

5. .')64 inches. 

11.128 inches. 

3.3.384 inches. 

lid. 

4 gallons, 1 pint, 
i gallon. 

1 onza. 

1 marco. 

1 libra . 

1 arroba. 

1 quintal. 

1 tonelada. 

0. 064 pounds. 

0. 508 pounds. 

1. 016 pounds. 

25. 402 pounds. 

101. 610 pounds. 

2, 032. 2 pounds. 


Note.—M easures and weights now in use same as those of France. 


In Spain, accounts are kept in reals and cents. English 
gold and silver do not pass current. The coins are: 


Dollars. 


Gold Isabella, 100 reals. 5 

Gold piece of 80 reals. 4 

Gold piece of 40 reals. 2 

Gold piece of 20 reals. 1 

Silver dollar, 20 reals. 1 


Reals. 


Silver | dollar. 10 

Silver peseta. 5 

Silver peseta. 4 

Silver peseta. 2 

Silver coin of. 1 


There are sometimes also doubloons and half-doubloons 
in. circulation, and French five-franc pieces of siWer, which 
pass currently for 19 reals, called always in Cadiz, Napo¬ 
leons.’ 


FKANOE.. 


TONNAGE-DUES. 

Extracts from French shipping-laws, 

^^Art. 4. The tonnage-dues at present levied on foreign 
vessels entering the ports of the empire shall be abolished 
from the 1st of January, 1867. 

“ The tonnage-dues at present levied on French and for¬ 
eign vessels, and applied as a guarantee for the payment of 
loans contracted for work for improvements in the ports of 
France, are, however, maintained. 

“Art. 6. In the event of French vessels being, in a for¬ 
eign country, subject, in the interest of the government, 
town, or corporation directly or indirectly, for navigation, 
or the importation or exportation of merchandise, to dues 
or charges from which the vessels of that country should be 
exempted, imperial decrees may establish on vessels of the 
































FRENCH TONNAGE AND CUSTOMS DUES. 


499 


said nation entering the ports of the empire, or of a French 
colony or possession, and on the merchandise they have 
on board, such duties or differential charges as should 
be considered necessary to compensate for the disadvan¬ 
tages to which French vessels may be subject.” 

Dues passed by the republic, February, 1873:* 

“Art. 5. The duties per ton measurement on the impor- 
portation of sea-going vessels are fixed as follows: Rigged 
sailing-vessels—wood, 40 francs; wood and iron, 50 francs ; 
iron, 60 francs. Steamers the same as above, with the ad¬ 
dition of the duty on the engines. Hulls—wood, 30 francs 
per ton; wood and iron, 40 francs; iron, 50 francs. 

“ These duties shall not be applicable to vessels which 
shall be proved to have been purchased previous to the pro¬ 
mulgation of the present law. 

“Art. 6. Vessels of all nations, from foreign countries 
or the French colonies and possessions, laden wholly or in 
part, shall pay as quay dues a fixed tax per ton measure¬ 
ment, as follows : 

“ From Europe or ports of the Mediterranean, 50centimes. 

“ From all other countries, 1 franc. 

“Art. 7. Articles 1, 3, and 5 of the law of May 19, 1866, 
are abrogated.” 

CUSTOMS DUES AND REGULATIONS. 

All goods landed or shipped pay a tax or duty (“ droit de 
statistique”) of 10 centimes per package, or, as regards 
merchandise in bulk, on every cubic metre. 

Bills of lading on goods, arriving from or leaving for for¬ 
eign countries, pay a stamp-duty of 2 francs 40 centimes; 
from or to French ports, 1 franc 20 centimes; but each bill 
of lading must only contain the name of one consignee; if 
it contains more, 60 centimes is charged on every addi¬ 
tional name mentioned. 

All merchandise, the produce of countries out of Europe, 
on importation from entrepots or bonded stores in Europe, 
pay a duty (surtaxe d’entrepot) of 30 francs per ton, if not 


* Articles 1,2,3, and 4, establishing a differential duty (“surtaxe de 
pavilion ”) on cargoes by vessels of British and other nationalities, have 
since been abrogated, (July, 1873.) 



500 


FRENCH CUSTOMS REOULATIONS. 


Manifest. 


Report and en¬ 
try. 


Sea protest. 


already, by earlier laws, liable to heavier entrepot sur¬ 
charges. 

No vessel can import merchandise into a French port 
without a manifest and copy signed by the master only^ the 
copy to be delivered up to the officer of customs who may 
board the vessel. Penalty, for lack of manifest, or refusal 
of the same, 1,000 francs. Vessels in ballast do not require 
a manifest. For every package short of the number on the 
manifest, a fine of 300 francs. For any over and above, a 
fine of 1,000 francs is incurred. 

The master of every merchant vessel, whether in ballast 
or with cargo, must make the report and entry of the ves¬ 
sel and cargo within twenty-four hours after arrival, under 
a penalty of 500 francs. 

Masters of vessels speaking and writing French, can do 
their business at the custom-house without a broker. The 
manifests of ship-masters speaking French, though written 
by another person, are receivable at the custom-house, with¬ 
out the intervention of a broker, as long as the master signs 
and presents it in person. 

For all that concerns the business of the ship, the owner, 
charterer, or sole consignee can be represented at the cus- 
tom house by a shi[)ping-clerk j and it is only when dis¬ 
putes arise, and cases are carried before the law-courts, that 
a ship master is obliged to avail himself of the services of 
a broker for the translation of documents. 

The sea protest must be deposited at the custom-house, 
with the report and entry, by all vessels coming from the 
United States, and, also, by all British vessels coming from 
the United Kingdom, or British possessions in Europe, to 
prove that they arrive directly therefrom, and to show the 
events of the passage, which may be the cause of damage 
to the cargo. By this proceeding the vessel may obtain the 
immunities or reduction of duty on the cargo in conse¬ 
quence of such damage. The above rules are all applica¬ 
ble to vessels putting into French ports wind-bound, in dis¬ 
tress, or from other causes. * 

HARBOR REGULATIONS. 

All vessels putting into, or departing from, a port of 
France, shall hoist their national flag. 


FRENCH HARBOR REGULATIONS. 


501 


All vessels on arriving in a port shall have their sprit-sail 
yards, dolphin-strikers, and flying-jib-booms rigged in, jib- 
booms ready to come in, sails clewed np, lower yards cock¬ 
billed, draught of water given to the port-officers, warps and 
hawsers ready, and the master, to the best of his judgment, 
or by a verbal order of the port-officers, shall take all 
other necessary measures to prevent any accident. 

No anchor must be slipped in the fairway, and when 
slipped in any other part of the harbor must be fitted with 
a buoy and buoy-rope. 

Any vessel taking ground before reaching the proper 
place of mooring, shall have the top-gallant masts and top¬ 
masts lowered, the boats launched, and the master, to the 
best of his judgment, or by a verbal order of the port-offi¬ 
cers, shall take all other precautions to prevent any acci¬ 
dent. 

Every master arriving in port shall, after conforming to 
the sanitary regulations, within tw^enty-four hours make a 
report in writing to the port-officers of the name of the 
vessel, tonnage, number of crew, and the nature of his cargo. 

Vessels shall be berthed in the docks by priority of entry, 
according to the order of reporting at the custom-house, to 
the nature of their cargo, their draught of water, and the 
custom of the port. 

When a vessel on entering may require to let go her an¬ 
chors in the tidal basin, such anchors shall be picked up 
within twenty-four hours by the crew, or at the ship’s ex¬ 
pense, and deposited on board, if the vessel be at hand, or 
on the quay, if the vessel cannot or will not receive them. 

The larger steam-vessels, arriving and departing at fixed 
dates, shall have the precedence over all other vessels, both 
inward and outward. 

Besides the two signal-guns fired by them on arriving \ 
and departing, their arrival and departure shall be an¬ 
nounced to all other vessels by a flag, that each one may 
bring-to, or delay entering or departing, as the meaning of 
the signal shall prescribe. 

Vessels lying aground in the tidal basin, either to await 
the tide to enter the docks, or for a favorable wind, or for 
any other motive, shall not remain moored to the buoys 
nor aground in the channel of the port. A light shall be 


FRENCH HARBOR REGULATIONS. 


placed at sunset at the extremity of the vessel nearest the 
channel. 

A master must be in person on board his vessel, on enter¬ 
ing into, or departing from, any port, haven, or river. In 
case of non-observance of this law, the master shall be 
responsible for all accidents to all persons interested in the 
vessel and in the cargo. 

The national flag hoisted on the bridges shall indicate 
that the locks are to be opened. 

Unless from urgent circumstances, the gates shall not be 
opened, either before the rising or after the setting of the 
sun, or during tempestuous weather. Nevertheless, at 
periods when the full tide serves before the rising or after 
the setting of the sun, should there be vessels to enter the 
docks or depart therefrom, and should the weather permit, 
the gates shall be opened once in twenty-four hours. The 
tide closely preceding the rising, or that less distant from 
the setting of the sun, shall be preferred. 

Vessels entering the docks shall bring up as much as 
possible opposite the entrance before high water, head first. 
The master, who must always be on board while thus mov¬ 
ing the vessel, shall receive from the port-ofiScers the nec¬ 
essary orders when passing the locks and bridges. The 
port-ofiicers shall determine the number of liaulers neces¬ 
sary, that the vessel may pass through the locks as rapidly 
as possible. 

The master shall not discharge his pilot and assistance- 
boat until the vessel be moored at the place indicated. He 
shall not come-to on the passage. While proceeding to his 
berth, he shall, immediately after passing through the lock 
of the dock in wdiich he is to discharge, finish taking in all 
sails and booms, cock-bill the lower yards, brace or cock-bill 
the topsail yards, and take such other precautions as may 
be ordered by the port-officers, in default of which the berth 
may be refused. 

The preceding measures serve also for vessels departing. 

Whenever the sluices are opened, it will be indicated dur¬ 
ing the preceding full-tide by a blue flag, hoisted and with¬ 
drawn at the proper time by the lockmen on the bridge of 
such docks, wherein the water shall be lowered; the port- 


FRENCH HARBOR REGULATIONS. 


503 


officers shall take the oecessary measures to prevent acci¬ 
dent. 

No movement can be made except with the permission of, 
and in conformity to, the orders of the port officers. 

Every master must proceed to the berth assigned to him 
by the port-officers. In hauling to the berth, the necessary 
precautions must be taken not to damage the quay. 

No vessel can be moored elsewhere than to the rings or 
posts placed for that purpose j the warps will be placed as 
low as possible to prevent accidents. If vessels be moored 
with chains, they must have boards under them to protect 
the flags of the quay; and further, they must be made fast 
with rope, and not with shackles, to be let go more quickly 
in case of fire. 

Every vessel must have proper fenders to prevent dam¬ 
age, and allow a free passage to those vessels lying off, and 
receive their hawsers and let go their lines to facilitate the 
movements of other vessels. 

It is forbidden to leave sails unfurled during the night. 
In case of storm every master or watchman must double 
the moorings, and have the top gallant masts lowered. 

Every master shall cause the quay before his vessel, and 
half the space between his vessel and the next, to be swept 
each day at the end of the work; the sweepings shall be 
heaped, and in no case nor under any pretext shall be thrown 
into the tidal basins or docks. 

Every vessel must have the national flag hoisted on Sun¬ 
days and holidays, and whenever the flag of the port may 
be hoisted. 

SHIPMENT AND UNSHIPMENT. 

The space reserved on the quays for circulation must 
always relnain clear. 

The goods of each vessel may remain deposited on the 
other space during the time allowed them for loading and 
unloading. 

Every vessel duly reported that may be detained in the 
tidal basin from any unavoidable cause, will be considered 
as if in dock. However, such vessels shall only have pre 
cedence over those vessels not unloading. 

For loading, applications will be received only from the 


504 


SHIPMENT AND UNSHIPMENT IN FRENCH PORTS. 

day when the vessel is completely discharged and all re¬ 
pairs finished. 

No goods to be landed are allowed to be cast from the 
vessel to the quay; goods must be landed with the tackle 
or by hand. 

All heavy goods must be placed on planks. 

Stones, plaster, metals, and other like goods cannot be 
landed or shipped unless the flags be covered with planks. 

No tiles, bricks, plaster, chalk, clay, sand, coal, &c., can 
be loaded, shipped, or transshipped, without having from 
the quay to the ship’s side a tarpaulin in good condition 
and made well fast. 

Each evening, at the expiration of work-hours, trucks, 
ladders, planks, and other articles employed in loading and 
unloading, must be removed outside the mooring-posts. 

Before leaving the quay, the master shall cause the space 
occupied by the goods while loading or unloading to be 
properly swept. 

SHIPPING AND UNSHIPPING BALLAST. 

It is forbidden to throw ballast overboard in the harbors, 
canals, docks, and roadsteads, or to have it carried else¬ 
where than to the place indicated by the port-oflicers. 

Ballast must not be shipped or landed previous to the ap¬ 
plication in writing to the port-officers. The application 
must contain the name of the master and vessel, the place 
where the vessel is lying, the quantity and kind of ballast 
required. 

It is forbidden to every master to give his ballast to 
another, or to reship that landed previous to the state of 
such ballast being examined by the port-officers, who may 
refuse such permission. 

Iron ballast and iron-stone ballast are excepted in the 
preceding measures. 

It is forbidden to ship or land ballast during the night, 
unless by special permission of the port-officers. 

The shipping and unshipping of ballast incur the obliga¬ 
tion already mentioned—to make use of a sail or tarpaulin 
in good condition and well fastened. 

In the shipping and landing of ballast, baskets must be 
used. 



STEAM-VESSELS IN FRENCH PORTS. 


505 


Ballast deposited on the quay must be shipped or re¬ 
moved the same day. 

No vessel having shipped or landed ballast can leave her 
berth previous to the quay being swept and properly 
cleaned. 

STEAM-VESSELS. 

steam-vessels shall be under the superintendence of the 
port-officers for all that concerns the fires, cleaning the fun¬ 
nels, the regulations of departure and arrival, berths and 
moorings, and the safety of passengers. 

The master of every steam-vessel must have the fires ex¬ 
tinguished on arrival into the basin. As soon as the steam- 
vessels are moored the port-officers or their assistants shall 
proceed on board to ascertain that every necessary measure 
has been observed. 

Every steam-vessel departing within nine hours after ar¬ 
rival may keep the fires going. 

Whenever a steam-vessel is ready for sea, the master, in 
giving notice thereof, must make known the hour he shall 
light the fires, which is to be done in the presence of the 
port-officers or their assistants, who shall remain on board 
until the steam-vessel shall leave the quay. 

Steam-vessels arriving daily may be exempted from these 
obligations. 

If the departure of a steam-vessel be postponed the fires 
must be immediately extinguished, as mentioned in a pre¬ 
ceding article. 

Whenever the passage of a steam-vessel, arriving or de¬ 
parting, is obstructed by other vessels, such steam-vessel 
must slow-down, and only preserve the speed absolutely 
necessary to steer. Steam-vessels remaining in the tidal 
basin shall not be swung until the channel be entirely free, 
and no vessel arriving or departing. 

Whenever there may be danger to a vessel, or the chan¬ 
nel be obstructed, tbe port-officers may in such case employ 
any steam-vessel to give assistance. The expenses will be 
borne by the vessel towed or assisted. 

Steam- 7 essels are likewise subject to the same regulations 
as other vessels, for all rules not here annulled. 


506 


MEASURES AGAINST FIRE IN FRENCH PORTS. 


MEASURES AGAINST FIRE.—SMOKING VESSELS.—FIRE ON 

BOARD. 

1. No vessel is allowed to enter basins with guns or other 
fire-arms loaded. If there be on board gunpowder or rock¬ 
ets, the master must make a report thereof to the port-offi¬ 
cers, who will superintend the immediate landing and the 
deposit of the same at the powder-magazine, or at such 
other place as may be appropriated to that purpose. 

Packet-vessels having signal-guns on board, and making 
a report of the gunpowder, will be allowed on board twelve 
charges. 

2. Vessels partly or entirely laden with saltpetre or sul¬ 
phur, the masters must,before mooring to the quay, make a 
report, under a penalty of all damages and accidents that 
the nature of the cargo may occasion, without prejudice to 
prosecution. 

Such vessels must proceed immediately, showing a red 
flag at the mast-head, to the place indicated by the port- 
officers. . 

In the shipment and unshipment of sulphur, wooden- ^ 
shovels alone shall be employed j the use of iron shovels is 
strictly forbidden. i 

3. It is forbidden to have fire on board vessels, or on the I 
quay inside the mooring-posts, or near the tents or mer- j 
chandise j to have a light otherwise than in a lantern ; to j 
carry on board shells, heated irons for pitch and other pur- | 
poses ; and to smoke. 

The preceding regulations may be departed from, smok 
ing excepted, in virtue of a written permission to be given 
by the port-officers. | 

Permissions shall be granted whenever necessary, on con- j 
dition that every measure be taken to prevent accident, sub- | 
ject to the superintendence of the port-officers or assistants. j 

4. Watchmen, on board vessels laying-up, shall have, at 
all times, two tubs of water on deck. 

5. In case of fire in the town, the masters must assemble 
their crews, and have their sails clewed up. 

6. In case of fire on board a vessel, the master or watch¬ 
men shall immediately acquaint the port-officers. To them 
belongs the direction of all assistance. They may employ 




QUAYS—LOCKS—BRIDGES IN FRANCE. 


50 


the crews of other vessels to give assistance where there 
is danger. The measures prescribed by the preceding arti¬ 
cle shall be observed by the masters, watchmen, and sea¬ 
men on board. 

7. Whenever it is necessary to smoke a vessel, or to heat 
the bunkers, notice shall be given to the port-officers, who 
shall tix the place and time. A master-caulker shall be 
employed under the direction of the port-officers. 

8. No vessel shall be breamed until notice is given to the 
port-officers by the master thereof. 

9. In all cases the breaming shall be done by a master- 
caulker, under the superintendence of the port-officers. 

During the time of breaming men shall be posted fore 
and aft, with buckets of water, to besprinkle the lanyards 
and moorings, and to watch the fire. 

As soon as the breaming is done, the master shall exam¬ 
ine the interior of the vessel and assure himself that no fire 
has entered therein. 

10. It is forbidden to heat pitch or tar elsewhere than at 
the place appointed by the lociil authorities^ and indicated 
by the port-officers. 

QUAYS.—LOCKS.—BRIDGES. 

1. The pilots and masters are responsible for damages 
done by their vessels to the quays, locks, bridges, &c., of 
the ports, except from unavoidable causes. 

2. It is forbidden to leave chain cables on the flags of the 
quays without being placed on planks. 

3. It is forbidden: (1.) To cast unwholesome liquids, 
earth, rubbish, and all other materials, into the harbor or 
docks. (2.) To deposit any materials on that part of the 
quays reserved for the circulation, under a penalty of the 
same being removed at the expense of such persons, without 
prejudice to prosecution for the like contravention. 

4. It is forbidden to all persons to cast off or cut any 
warps used in moving or mooring vessels. 

PORT OFFICERS AND MASTERS. 

1. The port officers and masters shall regulate the order 
of entry and departure of vessels in the harbors and docks, 


508 


FRENCH PILOT REGULATIONS. 


and the berth for each vessel, and superintend all the 
movements thereof. 

They shall superintend the shipping and landing of bal¬ 
last. 

They shall prescribe the necessary measures for smoking, 
breaming, caulking, repairing, and breaking up of vessels. 

2. The port-officers and masters shall inform the masters 
of vessels, pilots, and others, of such measures of safety and 
order, and regulations required to be observed, or that may 
be prescribed by the present regulations. 

3. The port-officers and harbor-masters may, in cases of 
necessity, without further notice than two verbal injunc¬ 
tions, cut or cause to be cut, the moorings that masters of 
vessels or others may refuse to let go. 

4. Whenever the port officers and masters shall cause to 
be executed any work, the expenses thereof to be borne by 
such vessel, they shall make a statement of the expenses 
to be approved by the prefect. 

5. The port officers and masters must always be in uni¬ 
form while in the execution of their duty. 

6. On penalty of dismissal, and under no pretext what¬ 
ever, shall the port officers and masters exact or accept any 
indemnity, contribution or gratuity, other than the fees 
allowed by article 3 of the decree of July 15, 1854. 

EXTRACTS FROM THE PILOT REGULATIONS FOR THE 
PRINCIPAL FRENCH PORTS. 

If a vessel conducted by a pilot into port arrive from a 
country suspected of contagion, and 'the said vessel be 
therefore not admitted to pratique, the pilot must conduct 
the vessel to the place set apart for the sanitary measures 
and visits, without communicating with her, if it be possi¬ 
ble. 

Pilots shall conduct those vessels first in the offing, and 
ioi consequence it is forbidden to give the preference to those 
at a greater distance, under a penalty of 25 francs. Should 
one of the vessels in sight be in distress, however, the pilots 
are then obliged to board her first, every vessel in danger 
requiring to be assisted in preference to any other. 

If a pilot board a vessel having a fisherman on board, be- 


\ 




FRENCH PILOT REGULATIONS. 


509 


fore the dangers are passed, he shall be received, and the 
salary of the fisherman be deducted from that of the pilot, 
according to the distance he may have conducted the vessel. 

Immediately on a pilot boarding a vessel, the master 
thereof is obliged to give him the draught of water of such 
vessel, under a penalty of liability for all damage if it be 
12 inches less than the actual draught. 

The master shall likewise make known to the pilot the 
vessel’s rate of sailing, her qualities and defects, that he 
may in consequence be able to work the vessel. 

The masters of French and foreign vessels shall be at lib¬ 
erty to take such pilots as they think fit, to enter into any 
port or river without being subject on departing therefrom 
to employ the same pilots. 

The masters of vessels and pilots who may be compelled 
by hurricane or other accident to slip their cables and leave 
their anchors in the roadstead, are obliged to fasten thereto, 
if possible, buoy-ropes and buoys in good condition, and ca¬ 
pable of raising such anchors, and to make a report thereof. 

The anchors and cables shall be picked up as soon as the 
weather may permit, by the pilots, and conducted to the 
vessels to which they belong if not i)reviously weighed by 
the ship’s crew. 

Whenever such anchors shall be picked up there shall be 
paid for salvage— 

By French vessels: 

If the anchor be without a buoy, one-fourth of the value. 

If the anchor be with a buoy, one-sixth of the value. 

By foreign vessels: 

If the anchor be without a buoy, one-half of the value. 

If the anchor be with a buoy, one-third of the value. 

The same to be estimated by surveyors named by the 
head-pilot and the master of the vessel. 

Pilots shall not exact a greater sum than that mentioned 
in the tarifif-rates drawn up in each port, under penalty of 
the restitution of the entire pilotage. 

In cases of tempest and evident danger, an indemnity 
apart, fixed by the tribunal of commerce, according to the 
work done and the danger encountered, shall be paid to the 
pilot by the master. 


510 


DOCK CHARGES IN FRANCE. 


DOCK CHARGES. 

A circular issued by the French minister of marine estab¬ 
lishes the following regulations, charges, &c., with regard 
to vessels admitted into government dry-docks for repairs; 

Francs. Centimes. 


Sailing-vessels, per ton: 

For the (lay of admission. 0 80 

For each day in dock, including the day of leaving... 0 40 

Steamers, per ton: 

For the day of admission. 1 00 

For each day in dock, including the day of leaving. - .0 50 


The tonnage of sailing-vessels will be calculated according, 
to their legal measurement; that of steam-vessels according 
to their legal measurement plus two-thirds. Vessels below 
400 tons measurement will pay, at the least, on that amount. 
Sundays and'fete days will not be charged for unless work 
be actually performed on those days. For sailing or steam 
vessels above 1,000 tons burden, the charges will be reduced 
by one-half for everj’ ton beyond 1,000 tons, and by three- 
fourths for every ton beyond 1,500 tons. All costs for mate¬ 
rial and labor requisite for admission into dock, for pump¬ 
ing out the dock, for shoring the vessel and for clearing out, 
must be paid. Nevertheless the crew may be made av^aila- 
ble for these purposes if considered desirable. 

Meth 0(1 of Moorson’s system of gauging ships was introduced in 

gauging French t 

ships. France by the decree of May, 1873, and includes now all 

vessels of 500 tons and upward. In three more years it will 
include all vessels of the French mercantile navy. As far 
as sailing-vessels are concerned the new gauge presents no 
variation worthy of note, but steamers are subjected to an 
increase in their tonnage of from 30 to 60 per cent. This 
brings about an increase in the tonnage, dock, health-office, 
quay, light-house, and other dues, and places French steam¬ 
ers at a disadvantage compared with those of other nations. 

EXTRACTS FROM CONVENTION, CON(^LUDED FEBRUARY 
23, 1853. 

Article VIII. 

Differences be- The respective consnls-general, consuls, vice-consuls, or 
consular agents shall have exclusive charge of the internal 
order of the merchant-vessels of their nation, and shall alone 




DESERTERS IN FRENCH PORTS. 


511 


take cognizance of differences that may arise,.either at sea 
or in port, between the captain, officers, and crew without 
exception, particularly in reference to the adjustment of 
wages and the execution of contracts. The local authori¬ 
ties shall not on any pretext interfere in these differences, 
but shall lend forcible aid to the consuls, when they may 
ask, to arrest and imprison all persons composing the crew 
whom they may deem it necessary to confine. Those per¬ 
sons shall be arrested at the sole request of the consuls, ad¬ 
dressed in writing to the local authority and supported by 
an official extract from the register of the ship or the list of 
the crew, and shall be held, during the whole time of their 
stay in port, at the disposal of the consul. Their release 
shall be granted at the mere request of the consuls made in 
writing. The expenses of the arrest and detention of these 
persons shall be paid by the consuls. 

Article IX. 

The respective consuls-general, consuls, vice-consuls, or 
consular agents may arrest the officers, sailors, or all other 
persons making part of the crews of ships-of-war or mer¬ 
chant-vessels of their nation, who may be guilty or be ac¬ 
cused of having deserted said ships and vessels, for the 
purpose of sending them on board or back to their country 
* * *; to that end the consuls of the United States in 

France ♦ * * shall apply to any of the competent au¬ 

thorities, and make a request in writing for the deserters, 
supporting it by an exhibition of the registers of the vessel 
and list of crew, or by other official documents to show that 
the men whom they claim belonged to said crew. Upon 
such request alone thus supported, and without the exac¬ 
tion of any oath from the consuls, the deserters, not being 
citizens of the country where the demand is made either at 
the time of their shipping or of their arrival in port, shall 
be ^iven up to them. All aid and protection shall be fur¬ 
nished them for the pursuit, seizure, and arrest of the de¬ 
serters who shall even be put and kept in the prisons of the 
country, at the request and at the expense of the consuls, 
until those agents may find an opportunity of sending them 
away. If, however, such opportunity should not present 


Deserters. 


512 


PROTESTS AND SALVAGE IN FRANCE. 


itself vvithia the space of three uioaths, counting from the 
day of the arrest, the deserters shall be set at liberty and 
shall not again be arrested for the same cause. 

Article X. 

^Prot^ests of The respective consuls-general, consuls, vice consuls, and 
consular agents shall receive the declarations, protests, and 
reports of all captains of vessels of their nation in reference 
to injuries received at sea; they shall examine and take 
note of the stowage; and where there are no stipulations to 
the contrary between the owners, freighters, or insurers, they 
shall be charged with the repairs. If any inhabitants of 
the country in which the consuls reside, or citizens of a third 
nation, are interested in the matter and the parties cannot 
agree, the competent local authority shall decide. 

Article XI. 

Salvage. All proceedings relative to the salvage of American ves¬ 

sels wrecked upon the French coast * * * shall be 
directed by the consul-general, consuls, and vice-consuls of the 
United States in France, * * * and, until their arrival, 

by the respective consular agents wherever such agency 
exists. In the places and ports where an agency does not 
exist, the local authorities, until the arrival of the consul 
in whose district the wreck may have occurred, and who 
shall be immediately informed of the occurrence, shall take 
all necessary measures for the protection of persons and the 
preservation of property. The local authorities shall not 
otherwise interfere than for the maintenance of order, the 
protection of the interest of the salvors if they do not belong 
to the crews of the vessels wrecked, and to carry into effect 
the arrangements made for the entry and exportation of the 
merchandise saved. 

It is understood that such merchandise shall not be sub¬ 
jected to any custom-house duty if it is to be re-exported, 
and if it be entered for consumption a diminution of such 
duty shall be allowed in conformity with the regulations of 
the country. 

QUARANTINE LAWS. 

Bill of health. All vcsscls, excepting fishing-boats, revenue-boats, or 
coasters, entering French ports, must have a bill of health, 
in which will be stated the sanitary condition of the port of 


FRENCH QUARANTINE LAWS. 


513 


departure and of the vessel at the time of departure, and 
of the passengers and crew. 

If a vessel touch at any intermediate port between the visa, 
ports of departure and destination, the bill of health must 
be vis6d there, and a statement added respecting the sani¬ 
tary condition of that place and of the vessel. In case of 
remaining over fire days after the delivery or visa of the 
bill of health, whether in the port of departure or in any 
intermediate port, a new visa becomes necessary. 

In the ports of France the bills of health are furnished 
by the sanitary authorities. 

Although a bill of health is required of vessels coming Bin of health 

.. .... , “Ot required. 

from any port m the world, it is the custom not always 
to exact one of those coming from countries usually healthy. 

The custom is sanctioned by the peculiar wording of Art. 4, 
of the decree of December 24, 1850, which reads; “Any 
vessel unprovided with a bill of health, wliicli^ by reason of 
its port of departure^ should have one, shall be kept apart for 
an examination into her sanitary condition, and, besides the 
measures to which she may be subjected to that end, may 
be compelled to perform a quarantine of observation for 
three to five days.” 

Vessels whose bills of health may have erasures, addi* 
tions, or other alterations of a suspicious character, are 
subject to special supervision, and to such measures as may 
be deemed necessary, without prejudice to the prosecution 
of the captain or master, and, independently of them, of 
the authors of the said alterations. 

It is forbidden to captains of vessels bound to French 
ports; 1. To part with their bill of health before reaching 
their port of destination. 2. To have on board any bill of 
health other than the one given in the port of departure. 

3. To embark on board their vessels any stranger, sailor, 
or other person appearing to have any infectious disease. 

The health-officer of a vessel, or, in his absence, the cap- Note of sick- 

, . . . .1 X. . ness in ship’s log. 

tain, must make note in the logof all cases of illness that may 
occur on board. The decree of August, 1822, also exacted a 
note of the symptoms of the malady, and although that of 
1850 did not renew that requirement, it is generally de¬ 
manded whenever there is a medical officer attached to th 
vessel. 

33' N 0 . 


514 


FRENCH QUARANTINE LAWS. 


Death o 
board. 


Duties cf shi; 
masters. 


Quarantine. 


“ In case of death on board from any infectious disease, all 
effects used by the deceased, while sick, and that might com¬ 
municate the infection, must be burned and destroyed, if 
the vessel be at anchor, and if under way, must be thrown 
overboard with due precautions against their floating. 
Also, all other effects of the deceased, or of persons that 
may have been attacked by the malady without succumb¬ 
ing, shall be fumigated, towed overboard, or subjected to 
some other efficient mode of disinfection. 

P' On all shipmasters are imposed the following duties: 
to prevent all communication, on entering port, previous 
to being admitted to free pratique ; to conform to all rules 
and orders of the sanitary police; to berth their vessels in 
the places designated to them; to proceed in person, as 
soon as requested, to the presence of the sanitary authori¬ 
ties, flying a yellow flag in the boat, if quarantined, to 
warn others not to communicate with them; to furnish 
the said authorities with all the ship’s papers, and to an¬ 
swer on oath all questions asked, and to give all facts or 
information in their power that may interest the public 
health. 

Members of the crews and passengers of vessels may be 
subjected to the same interrogatories. 

Vessels arriving in French ports are liable to be subjected 
either to a rigorous quarantine or to one of observation, 
both of which will be more or less long and strict accord¬ 
ing to the season, the place where such quarantine is per¬ 
formed, the objects more or less capable of retaining infec¬ 
tion on board, and the length and other circumstances of 
the voyage. 

According to the decree of 1822, vessels with clean bills 
of health, coming from countries not generally healthy, or 
that are known to be temporarily infected, will be subjected 
to a quarantine more or less rigorous, and of greater or less 
duration, according to circumstances. 

Before being admitted to free pratique, vessels coming 
from healthy countries, with clean bills of health, must 
submit to the customary visits and interrogatories, and an 
examination of their bills of health. Accidents or commu¬ 
nications of a suspicious character, will delay their being 
admitted to free pratique. 


FRENCH QUARANTINE LAWS. 


515 


The length of the quarantine prescribed in any case may 
be increased for any vessel communicating with any other 
performing a more rigorous quarantine, or on board which 
symptoms of an infectious disease may appear, or if facts of 
a suspicious nature should come to the knowledge of the 
sanitary authorities. In the former case the additional 
quarantine imposed shall not exceed the remainder of the 
term still to be performed by the other vessel at the time 
of communication. 

Vessels having to undergo observation, can remain in 
any French port during the time prescribed. 

The quarantine stations are termed lazarettos, and com- Lazarettos, 
iwise a portion of territory or an island, on which are erected 
buildings for the lodging of persons and storage of cargo, 
and a portion of a roadstead for the berthing of vessels. 

Vessels performing quarantine must remain anchored, or 
moored to a pier, and can have no communication with the 
shore or among themselves. When the crew and passen¬ 
gers remain on board, they will receive everything neces¬ 
sary in the way of food, clothing, or assistance. On shore 
the sick are attended, the dead buried, and merchandise 
disinfected. 

Merchandise and other objects deposited in the lazarettos, 
and not reclaimed within two years, are sold at public auc- 
tion. If of a perishable nature, they may be sold before 
the expiration of the two years, by virtue of an order from 
the president of the tribunal of commerce, or, in his absence, 
of a justice of the peace. The price received goes to the 
state if not claimed within five years following the sale. 

Art. 2, .of the decree of April, 1833, provides that cotton ^^American cot- 
bales coming from the United States shall not be opened 
nor landed at the lazarettos, whatever sanitary measures it 
may be deemed necessary to take in regard to the vessel 
carrying them. This law has since been extended to in¬ 
clude the West Indies. 

The health officers of a port can refuse admission into Non -ad mi t- 

, , , T «• • /* tance to quaran - 

quarantine, if the lazarettos be crowded, or sunering trom tine, 
or threatened with infection, or if the vessel be so infected 
as to endanger the public health by remaining. This refusal 
is to be accompanied with information as to the nearest 
ports where such vessel could be received. 


516 


FRENCH MEASURES. 


Destruction of 
infected matter. 


Violation of 
quarantine. 


Art. 3 of the decree of March, 1822, says that when it is 
impossible to disinfect, preserve, or transport without dan¬ 
ger, any animals or objects capable of transmitting infec¬ 
tion, the former shall be killed and buried, and all other 
matter burned and destroyed, without having to refund 
their value to the owner. In these cases the owner is enti¬ 
tled to make what statements or give what arguments he 
may judge proper against the execution of the law. 

Any vessel or person that may attempt in violation of 
the law to enter into free pratique, after being once warned, 
shall be forcibly ejected without prejudice to prosecution. 


MEASURES, WEIGHTS, AND COINS. 

Length. The Unit of length in France is the metre, which was in¬ 

tended to represent the ten-millionth part of the distance 
from the equator to the pole, measured over the surface of 
the earth. It slightly varies from this, however, and can 
therefore be regarded only as a unit of length represented 
by a bar of platinum in Paris, measured at the temperature 
of melting ice, (0° centigrade, or 32^ Fahrenheit.) 

10,000 metres make I myriametre= 6.214 miles. 

1,000 metres make 1 kilometre = 0.6214 mile. 

100 metres make 1 hectometre = 328.09 feet. 

10 metres make 1 decametre = 32.809 feet. 

The metres39.37079 inches. 

1 metre equals 10 decimetres; decimetre =3.937079 inches. 

1 metre equals 100 centimetres; centimetre =0.3937 inch. 

1 metre equals 1,000 millimetres ; millimetre=0.03937 inch. 

Surface. Squarcs of the metre and its derivatives are used to 

measure surfaces. Also the are, equal to a square of ten 
metres on a side. 

100 ares, or 10,000 square metres, make 1 hectare=2.4714 acres. 

The are, or 100 square metre8= 1,076.43 square feet. 

The Too of an are, 1 square metre, is the centare=1,550.06 square inches 

Capacity. The litre is the unit for both wet and dry measure, and 
equals one cubic decimetre. 


10,000 litres make 1 myrialitre = 2641.8 United States gallons. 
1,000 litres make 1 kilolitre = 264.18 United States gallons. 
100 litres make 1 hectolitre = 26.418 United States gallons. 

10 litres make 1 decalitre = 2.6418 United States gallons. 

The litre = 1.05672 quarts, United States measure. 


FRENCH WEIGHTS—COINS. 


517 


1 litre equals 10 decilitres; decilitre =0.211344 pint, U. S. measure. 

1 litre equals 100 centilitres; centilitre =0.021134 pint, U. S. measure. 

1 litre equals 1,000 millilitres; millilitre =0.002113 pint, U. S. measure. 

In dry measure the kilolitre = 28.3783 United States 
bushels; the hectolitre = 2.83782 bushels; the decalitre = 
1.13513 pecks ; the litre = 0.227 half-peck, and so on. In 
measuring wood and coal the kilolitre is known as the 
stere, the myrialitre as the decastere, and the hectolitre as 
the decistere. 

The standard of weight is the gramme, which represents 
the weight of one cubic centimetre of distilled water at its 
maximum density. 


1,000,000 grammes make 1 millier or tonneau 
100,000 grammes make 1 quintal' = 

10,000 grammes make 1 myriagramme = 
1,000 grammes make 1 kilogramme = 
100 grammes make 1 hectogramme = 
10 grammes make 1 decagramme = 
The gramme equals 15.432349 grains. 

1 gramme equals 10 decigrammes; decigramme 
1 gramme equals 100 centigrammes ; centigramme 


2204.62 pounds. 
220.462 pounds. 
22.0462 pounds. 
2.2046 pounds. 
3.52739 ounces. 
0.35274 ounce. 

= 1.543235 grains. 
= 0.15432 grain. 


1 gramme equals 1,000 milligrammes; milligramme = 0.01543 grain. 


Ten centimes make 1 d^cime; 10 decimes make 1 franc. 
The theoretical value of the franc in United States money 
is $0.1945. The value recognized in United States custom 
rates is $0,193. 

Coin table. 


Weight. 


Money. 


Coins. 

Material. 

Weight, 

(grains.) 

Fineness. 

Value. 

100-franc piece, legal rate. 

Gold.... 

497. 742 

900 

ei9.2955 

.50-franc piece, legal rate. 

Gold.... 

248. 871 

900 

9. 6478 

20-franc piece, legal rate. 

Gold .... 

99. 548 

900 

3. 8591 

20-franc piece, by (J. S. Mint assay ....... 

Gold .... 

99. 360 

899 

.3. 8470 

10-frauc piece, legal rate. 

Gold.... 

49. 774 

900 

1. 9296 

5-franc piece, legal rate. 

Gold .... 

24. 887 

900 

0. 9648 

T.oiiift d’or, 1785 ___ 

Gold .... 



4. 6604 

TiOiiia d'or, 1810 to 1840 _ 

Gold .... 



3.8258 

5-franc piece, l^al rate. 

Silver... 

385. 750 

900 

0. 9726 

5-franc piece, XjT S. Mint assay. 

Silver.. 

384. 000 

900 

0. 9600 

2-franc piece, legal rate. 

Silver... 

154. 320 

835 

0. 3890 

2-franc piece, 1807-’68, by U. S. Mint assay 

Silver... 

153. 600 

835 

0. .3560 

Franc, weight 5 grammes, legal rate. 

Silver... 

77. 160 

835 

0. 1945 

Piece of 50 centimes, legal rate. 

Silver... 

38. 580 

835 

0. 0972 

Piece of 20 centimes, legal rate. 

Silver... 

15. 432 

835 

0. 0389 

Ift f'.ATifqmftft _ __ 

llronzo .. 

154. 320 


0. 0195 


liroiizft.. 

77.160 


0. 0097 


Pronze.. 

30. 864 


0. 0039 

^Piece of 1 centime, legal rate. 

Bronze.. 

15. 432 


0. 00195 


Of the bronze coins given in the above table, the weight 


of each one, is represented in grammes by the number of 
centimes, 10 centimes weighing 10 grammes, and so on 
downward. 






































ALPHABETICAL INDEX OF NAMES 


Achuri point. 151 

Adour river.195,196,200 

-lights. 196 

Agni Hones cape. 8 

Ahorcado point. 118 

Aigle, Basse de 1’. 291 

Aiguille point. 265 

Aignillon point (Pert. d’Antioche) 263 

-light (Pert. d’Antioche). 263 

-bay (Pert. d'Antioche). 263,274 

-light (Loire river). 306 

Aix island light. 240 

-roads. 250,251 

Ajo river, cape. 110 

A116 point. 155 

Alzacoarria bay. 155 

Amuck islet. 170 

Anchise river. 210 

Ano, Mount. 114 

Antioche, Pertuis d’. 247,248 

-approaching. 244-247 

-Rocher d’. 239 

Anzaron Island. 23 i 

Anzora point, village. 142 

Apiquel point. 143 

Aquech islet. 138 

Arando Grande point. 164 

-Chico point. 164 

Arcachon, Bassin d’... 206-208 

Ardevenne point. 361 

Areoura point. 30 

Argenton port. 466 

Armenza bay, village. 137 

Arnao bay. 35 

Arno mount. 150 

Arnosate mount .. 150 

Arrangasia point. 150 

Arredo bank. 35 


Page. 

Arriedera islet. 141 

Arruicobajli point. 158 

Artedo bay. 48 

Artha, rock. 192 

Artimon, Plateau de H. 337 

Arvert point. 235 

Arzic port. 340 

Asabaratza bay. 170 

Astrolabe, Basse del’. 308 

Audierne bay. 409,410 

-town. 410,412 

-lights. 411 

-channels, roads. 411, 412 

Auray. 356 

Aven river, light. 380 

Avilas inlet. 52 

-light. 53 

-town, directions. 54 

B. 

Balance island... 474 

Baleines point. 241 

-light. 242 

! -Conches des. 269 

Baleiueaux light. 242 

Ballota point (near Llanes). 81 

Ballota (Negra) point (near Suan- 

ces). 93 

Bancha, bank. 159 

Banche, la, bank. 307 

-light. 308 

Bandeja point. 10 

Ban nee island. 474 

Bfiquio bay. 137 

Barges d’Olonue. 265 

-light. 265 

-approaching. 276 

-passes. 276,277 

Barillets, les, rocks. 418 



































































































520 


INDEX OF NAMES 


Page. 

Barquero inlet.. 12 

-port. 1^ 

-tides, directions. 16 

Barqueta (Meron) bay. 69 

Basorda bay. 137 

Basques roads. 249,250 

Bastresses, les, shoals. 368 

Batallera mount. 162 

Baiizec, basse. 333 

Bavard rock. 294 

Bayonne. 201,202 

Begofia point, town. 128 

Beg-Morg point. 379 

Belle-Ile. 337-342 

-light. 338 

-channel. 342-344 

-directions. 343 

Bdlon river, light. .. 380 

Belveignon, les, shoals. 470 

Beniguet, Chanss6o du (Quiberon 

bay). 335 

-pass (Quiberon bay). 352 

Bdniguet island (near Ouessant). 470 

Beninou bay... 478 

Benodet bay.391-396,398 

-town. 398 

Bermeo port. 139 

Berria sands. Ill 

Bertheaume bay. 443 

Besaya river. 95 

Beuzec, basse. 445 

Beuzec, light. 383 

Biarritz point, town. 194 

-light. 195 

Bidart. 194 

Bidasoa river. 173 

Bidio cape. 47 

Bilbao bay...122,127,128 

-town. 131,132 

-lights. 133 

Biron rocks. 288 

Bivideaux, plateau des. 342 

Biscaross'e beacon. 206 

Biscarraya point. 153 

Biscay province. 123 

Blanche, la, bank. 296 

Blanco, cape. 40 

Blancs Sablons, bay. 464 

Blaye. 230 


Page. 

Boeufs, Chauss6e des. 293,294 

Bordeaux. 230-236 


Bonneau rock 
Borizo island 
Bossemen, les 
Boufouloc, le. 


Bourgneufbay. 297-303 

Brest roads. 445-451 

-lights. 446 

_city. 456-459 

-directions. 451-456 

Bridy, basse. 477 

Brigneau inlet. 379 

Brusco iioint. HI 

Burela point. 28 

Busto cape, light.. 46 

C. 

Caballo point (near Vivero). 19 

Caballo point (near Santander).. 101 

Caballo point (near Llanes). 80 

Cabarga mount. 106 

Cabellou point. 382 

-Linuen du. 390 

Cabrero point. 90 

Cabrito point. 62 

Calderon point. 93 

Camaret bay. 437 

-town.-. 438 

Candd.s bay, port. 63 

Candina mount. 118 

Cantin, basse.. 284 

Canto point. 94 

Cantos anchorage. 95 

Cap Breton, fosse de. 203,204 

-light. 205 

Capucins point. 438 

-light. 439 

Carabela bank. 34 

Cardal point. 149 

Carino inlet. 8 

Carrande mount. 73 

Carrastrado point. 90 

Carreros point. 73 

Castelli point. 328,329 

Castouillet, basse. 309 

Castro bank. 38 

Castro-Urdiales bay, port. 120,121 

-light. 121 


















































































































INDEX OF NAMES. 521 


Page. 

Castro Verde bank. 121 

Castropol. 34 

Cavada peak... 105 

Cerredo mount. 119 

Cervi^non point. 68 

Chacineiras islets. 30 

Chaise, la, bank. 303 

-light. 296 

Chapelle, Haut-Fond de la. 483 

Charente river.252-256,257 

-lights. 240 

Charniers point. 295 

Charn, basse ar. 413 

Charpentiers banks. 305 

Chassiron point, light. 239 

Chateau, le, town (016ron island). 238 

-Jights (Ol^ron island).. 240 

Chateauliu roads. 460,461 

-river. 462 

-town. 462 

Chatelaillon point. 241 

Chats, pont des. 417 

Chauveau point. 258 

-light. 242 

Chernin^es, les. 468 

Ch^moulin point. 307 

Chenal, basse du (off Lorient bay). 372 

Chenal, basse du (off St. Matthieu 

point). 463 

Chevaux, chauss6e des (Noirmou- 

tier). 295 

Chevaux, chauss^e de File aux... 335 

-passes. 352 

Ch^vre, port (Haedik island).... 354 

Ch^vre, la, cape (Douarnenez bay). 428 

-chauss^e (Douarnenez bay) . 428 

Chiens Perrins, les. 283 

Chiquet point. 264 

Cillero town. 20 

Ci^rvana point. 127 

Cleu basseven. 474 

Co bank. 22 

Coelleira channel. 15 

Cogollo point. 51 

Colunga river. 73 

Combrit point. 392, 397 

Coniillas port, light. 90 

Commerce light. 306 

Goncarneau lights. 382,383 


Page. 

Coucarneau, directions. 388-390 

-town, roads. 390 

Conejera island, light. 15 

Conejos island. 97 

Conquet, le, town. 464 

-light. 464 

Contis light. 206 

Corbeau point. 281,286 

-light. 282 

Cordouan light. 214 

Cornoc Bras. 414 

Corsen point. 464 

Cortada point. 100 

Corvic, le. 382 

Cotini^re, la. 239 

Coubre, la, point, light. 213 

Courleau, basse. 467 

Couronn6e, la, basse. 297 

Crac’h lights. 333 

-river. 359 

Cr^ac’hmeur point. 443 

Cr^ac’h light. 476 

Croisic point. 308 

-lights. 309 

-town, roads. 328 

Croix, la, light (Goncarneau).... 383 

Croix, la, light (lie de Groix).... 364 

Croix-de-Vie river. 290 

Crom, le. 479 

Cromic, le. 472 

Cruz point. 35 

Cudillero port, light. 48 

Cuerno point. 97 

Cuerno de Cand^s point. 62 

Cueva Baja point. 15 

D. 

Darland port. 478 

Demetria island. 97 

Deva islet. 51 

-inlet. 150 

-river. 84 

Devin point. 293 

Dichoso point. 93 

Dinant point. 431 

-bay. 432 

Doble bank. Ill 

Donon bay. 338 

Dordogne river. 212 




























































































522 


INDEX OF NAMES 


Page. 

Douarnenez bay. 427-431 

-town. 429 

Doudlan port, lights. 379 

Drevantec pass. 353 

Dumet island. 329 

-passage. 329 


Page. 

Froniveur channel. 480 

Front, roche du. 285 

Fuenterrabia bay. 171,172 

-town. 172 

Furado, mount. 14 


G. 


E. 


Ecbelle point. 339 

Enizan rock. 400 

Entornada point.. 69 

Erbosa isle. 57 

Ervillj’^ 1,’point. 410 

Escairo point. 31 

Esclassiers pass. 351 

Esconil port. 400 

Espasante bay, village. 10 

Esquilletac, les. 190 

Estaca point, light. 10,11 

Etel river, light. 362 

Eve 1,’ point light. 306 


Fain, le. 301 

Farallones de San Cipriano. 25 

Faro, Mount-. 20 

Ferret, cape-light. 207 

Fiefd’Ars. 269 

Fief point lights. 242 

Fillettes, les. 441 

Florus, Raz du. 479 

Forcada point. 55 

Forest, la, bay. 383,391 

Forno anchorage. 50 

Four,le, rock, light (near Melgorne 

point). 466 

- channel, (near Melgorne 

point). 486-488 

Four, le, rock, light (Loireriv'er) 309 

-passage, (Loire river). 345,346 

Fournier, basse. 310 

Foz, gulf. 28 

-inlet. 31 

Fraile point. 112 

-anchorage. 117 

Frio mount. 158 

Fromantine inlet. 291,292 

Fromveur, basse. 478 


Gabeira islet. 1“ 

Galea point. 128 

Galera point. 157 

Galizano, cape. 169 

-river, town. HO 

Gardette, la, point. 295 

Garfauto point. ’ HI 

Garonne river. 212 

Gasteatape bay. 153 

Gironde river. 212 

-lights. 213-216 

-tides. 216,217 

-soundings off. 218,219 

-Passe du Nord. 220-224 


-Passe des Charentais... 224 

-Passe du Sud. 224-226 

-anchorages. 227,228 

-interior navigation_ 229 

G16nans islands. 383-385 

Goayen river. 410 

Gorliz sands. 136 

Goulet de Brest. 439,440 

-dangers. 440-442 

Goulfar port. 338 

Grallal beach. 19 

Grand Banc light-ship. 213 

Grand Champ rock. 283 

Grand Minou point. 443 

Grand Mont point. 332 

Grand Gouin point. 437 

Grande Vinotifere, la. 463 

Grave point lights. 213 

Grazu rock. 368 

Groix, He de. 363, 364 

-light. 364 

-anchorage. 365 

-approaching. 369-371 

Grouin du Cou poiut, light. 264 

Guarnizo village. 104 

Gu6rande bank. 309 

Gu6rin, basse. 310 

Gu6riuiere, anse de la. 293 






















































































































INDEX OF NAMES. 523 


Page. 

Guetaria, bay. 153 

-town, light. 154 

Guilvinec port, lights. 401 

Guinoec, basso. 390 

Gijon bay. 64 

-town. 65 

-lights. 66 

H. 

Haedik island, light. 336 

-roads. 354 

Halguen point. 329 

Hello, plateau do la. 473 

-cheual do la. 488 

H61orete, pass. 417 

Hennebont. 377 

Herbandibre T, point. 293 

Hermitage, rocher de 1’. 430 

Hernio mount. 157 

Higuera cape. 170 

-light. 171 

Hikbrik, basse. 309 

Houat island, bank. 335 

-anchorage. 352 

Hourtin lights. 210 

Haut Banc du Nord light. 242 

Hant-Fond d’Ouessaut. 479 

Haut-Fond de la Chapelle. 483 

Huchette beacon. 206 

I. 

Igneldo mount. 157 

Hiss, basse an. 379 

lock, ile d’. 466 

Iroise. 431 

-dangers. 433,434 

-passes among rocks. 435-437 

-soundings. 451 

Iran. 172 

Isaro inlet. 141 

Islares point. 118 

Itegui point. 155 

Itzarriz mount. 157 

Izustarri point. 153 

J. , 

Jaisqnivel mount. 170 

Jardinets, les. 305 

Jarri point. 79 


Page. 

Jaune, basse. 381 

Jument, la, point. 382 

-Corven de la. 382,390 

Jument, la. 471 

K. 

Karek- Allidec. 390 

Karek-Bras. 380 

Karek-Grbiz. 400 

.Keller, chaussbe de. 479 

-island. 479 

Kerbel bay. 373 

- light. 366 

Kerdonis point.. 340 

Kerel, port. 339 

Kermorvan point. 463 

Kersos bay. 382 

Kervoyal point. 330 

Kbrouars, banc des. 298 

Kogubs, basse. 386 

L. 

La Conche anchorage. 285 

La Flotte light. 242 

-anchorage. 272,273 

La Grigne, beacon. 210 

La Lastra point. 119 

La Longe le Boyard bank. 251 

La Molar rock. 89 

La Plata, cape.. 164,168 

La Rochelle, lights. 241 

-city.-. 261,262 

-anchorage. 259 

-roads. 260 

-approaching. 258-260 

La Sablaire anchorage. 284 

-bank. 285 

La Tranche point, (Ile d’Yeu).... 286 

La Tranche village, (Pertuis Bre¬ 
ton). 264 

Laberildut. 464 

Lage bank. 22 

Laisuas rocks. 140 

Lambarde bank. 308 

Lamiaran point. 140 

Lampaul bay. 476 

Landbvennec channel. 462 

Landerueau river. 459,460 

-town. 459 
















































































































524 


INDEX OF NAMES 


Page. 

Langre point. 109 

Lanriec light. 382 

Lansraarch point. 432 

Laredo bay, port. 117,118 

Larrum (La Rhune) mount. 173 

Las, chenal du. 473 

Las Lobas. 142 

Lastres cape. 72 

-bay, town. 72 

Lata point. 100 

Lavardin bank. 260 

Le Clone bank. 249 

L6d(Snes de Qu6m4nes. 472 

Leixon de Nordeste. 28 

Lequeitio bay. 144 

-river, light. 145 

-town. 145 

Leurvas, shoal. 476 

Libourne. 230 

Lieiro beach. 24 

Liencres town, point. 98 

Limpias town. 114 

Linious, les... 465 

Liuera point, bay.*. 86 

Llampero point, port. 56 

Llanes, port, town, light. 80 

Llastras point. 72 

Llumeres bay. 60 

Loc-Maria, (Belle-Ile). 340 

Loctudy light. 392 

-town .. 400 

Loire point. 293 

Loire river. 303,304 

-bar. 310 

-lights. 305,306 

-directions.312-320 

Longue folle, bank. 305 

Lorient bay. 367,374,375 

-town. 376 

-lights . 367 

-bay, currents. 369 

Los Siguelos. 11 

Louis, port, lights. 366 

-roads. 371 

-entering. 371-373 

Lovre, basso. 308 

Luauco bay, port. 61 

Luana bank. 91 

-point. 92 


Page. 


Luarca bay, port. 44 

-tides, directions. 45 

-light. 45 

Lucero mount. 126 

Lytiry island.. 471 

M. 


Mabessin bank. 192 

Machichaco point, light, bay .... 138 

Machilando point. 136 

Magoero rocks. 362 

Maliano point. 104 

Malla-Arria point. 1^5 

Mar cape. 76 

Marguerites, les, rocks. 291 

Martrais bay. 258 

Masclougr6itz. 413 

Mats, plateau des. 330 

Maumusson point. 236 

-pertius de. 236-238 

-light. 236 

Mayence rock. 285 

Mayor, cape. 101 

M6ans, lights. 305 

Men an Trdas. 381 

Men Diou, channel S. of. 387 

Men Tensel, rock. 474 

Mendu. 381 

Melgorne point. 466 

M61on island. 465 

Menor cape. 101 

Menacoz point. 136 

Merend^lvarez reefs. 57 

Meryen inlet... 379 

Meron beach. 87 

Mesnada point, shoal. 70 

Meur, basse. 466 

Milhaut, basse.. 308 

Mindin point. 305 

Minimes point. 260 

Miouo point. 122 

Miradorio point. 91 

Mogro river, village. 97 

-(Mouro) island. 102 

MoRne island. 474 

Mompas (Animas) point. 163 

Monteran point. 9 

Moras cape.. 23 

Morbihan, le. 355-358 

















































































































INDEX OF NAMES 


525 


. Page. 

Mor6a point. 90 

Mordes bank. 305 

Morgat point, anchorage. 428 

Morgoa point. 140 

Morgol islet. 472 

Motrico port. 150 

Mousterlin point. 391 

Montons island. 385 

-channels. 386,387 

Mundaca river. 140 

-town. 141 

Muzquiz point. 126 

N. 

Nachitua point. 143 

Nantes. 324-328 

Navalo light. 333 

-anchorage. 358 

Navia inlet. 42 

Negro point. 56 

Nervion river. 129 

Netos islets. 22 

Niembro inlet, village. 78 

Ninkinous, les. ‘ 413 

Nivelle river. 190 

Noirmoutier island. 293 

-town, light. 296 

Noja bay. Ill 

Notre Dame, basse. 298 

Nuestra Senora de las Nieves, 

nionnt. 117 

Nueva river. 76 

O. 

Odet river, lights. 392 

Ogono mount, cape. ' 142 

Oguella bay. 144 

Olaviaga. 131 

Oldron island. 238 

-lights. 239,240 

Olive point. 69 

Ondiirroa bay. 146 

Orgullo (Urgull) mount. 158 

Orifion point, inlet. 118,119 

Orio inlet, river, town. 156 

Orrio de Tapia. 39 

Orfnaga bay. 152 

Ortegal cape. 7 

Oteiro bay. 47 j 


Page. 

Otoyo mount. 144 

Ouessaut island. 475-479 

-lights. 476,478 

-landfall. 481-485 

Ours des Vieilles. 286 

Oyarziin river. 165 

Oyhambre cape. 89 

P. 

Faille, basse. 368 

Paimbceuf light. 305 

-town. 323, 324 

-anchorage. 324 

Pain Chateau point . 307 

Palais, le, town, roads.. 340, 343 

-light, shoal. 341 

Pallice anchorage. 258,273 

Palo Verde island. 76 

Paucha islet, light. 33 

Paranos beach. 24 

Pasages port. 164 

-town. 165 

-lights. 167 

Pauillac. 230 

Pechon point, beach. 85 

Pellerezo point. 85 

Pen-ar Roc’h. 477 

Penerfport. 331,332 

Penfeld river. 456 

Penfret light. 384 

Peuhir point, bay. 432 

Peulan point, light. 330 

Penmarc’h rocks. 403 

-point, light. 404 

-approaching. 405,406 

Penthidvre fort. 361 

Penvins point. 330 

Pena Castillo. 104 

Pena Mayor island. 86 

-Meuor islet. 86 

Penas cape. 56 

-light. 57 

Pequechilla rock. 164 

Perau point. 63 

Peres, basse des. 296 

Perray, point, river. 264 

Perroche, la. 239 

Perrotino light. 240 

Pertuis d’Antioche. 247,248 























































































































526 


INDEX OF NAMES 


Page. 

Pertuis d’Antioclie, approaching. 244-247 


Pertuis Breton. 265,267 

-approaching. 266 

Pertuis de Maumusson. 236-238 

Petite Foule light. 282 

Petit Minou light. 439 

Petit Taureau. 470 

Petou bank. 46 

Pen Breton. 273 

Piedra de Burela. 30 

Piedras Blancas (Achuri) point .. 151 

Piedras Meas. 10 

Pierre des Poissons. 469 

Pierre dii chenal. 298 

Pierre Moine. 298 

Pierre Perc^e. 307 

Pierres Noires (Etel river). 361 

Pierres Noires, light (near Oues- 

sant). 468 

Pierres Vertes. 474 

Pilier island, light. 295 

Pilours rock. 289 

Pineira point. 32 

Piriac, plateau. 329 

Piriou, basses. 413 

Pitorro bank. 115 

Placen-ar-B6uiguet. 469 

Platresses, les. 467 

Pl^ucia inlet. 136 

Plomh point, bay. 263 

Pont r Abbd river. 399 

-town. 400 

Poo bay. 79 

Porcia. 39 

Poruic, light. 297 

Poreac, basse. 379 

Port-Breton. 284 

-lights. 282 

Port de la Mule. 286 

Port-Haliguen. 359 

-light. 334 

Port-Louis lights. 366 

-roads. 371 

-entering. 371-373 

Port-Maria. 360 

Portelo. 28 

Portes, banc des. 269 

Portugalete. 129 

Portz-Carn. 408 



Page. 

Portz-Guen (Quiberon). 

. 360 

Portz-Guen (Ouessaut) . 

. 477 

Portzen point. 

. 432 

Portzic light,.. 

. 440 

Portzpoder bay. 

. 466 

Potorroarri point. 

. 138 

Poulains, les, point.. 

. 337 

TAplrQ linrlif; 

338 

Poulbrien. 

.. 407,408 

Pouldon anchorage.. 

. 339 

Pouldu bay.. 

. 378 

Pouliguen light. 

. 307 

Pourceaux, les. 

.. 385 

Previa river. 

. 49 

Pr^au bank, anchorage.. 

. 271,272 

Prieto cape. 

.. 71 

Promontorv point. 

.. 102 

Puerto point. 

. 102 

Puntal del Pasage point. 

. 114 

Q. 


Quebrantas point. 

. 105 

Quejo cape. 

.. 110 

Qudui^nbs island. 

. 472 

Quiberon peninsula. 

. 334 

-hay. 

.333,354,355 

-lights. 

. 333,334 

-piiterino" 

350 

Quimper river. 

. 396,397 

-town. 

. 398 

Quiraperl^ river. 

. 378 

Quintres cape. 

. 110 

K. 


Rabanal point. 

. 119 

Rabia bay, beach. 

. 89 

Raguenes rock. 

.. 381 

Rauvel, le. 

. 469 

Raoulic point, light. 

. 411 

Rastrillar point. 

. 118 

Raz, Bee du. 

. 414 

-, lights. 

. 415 

R6 island.>_ 

. 241 

-lights. 

. 242 

Recherche, plateau. 

. 336 

Redon. 

. 349 

Remedios point. 

. 91 

Renards, les. 

. 463 

Rennes. 












































































































INDEX OF NAMES. 527 


Page. 

Repos rocks. 288 

Reqnejada village. 94 

Reqnexo point. 52 

Rivadeo inlet. 33 

-town. 34 

-pilots, directions. 36 

Rivadesella inlet, town. 74 

-light.. 75 

Roche Bernard. 349 

Rochebonne plateau. 243 

- light-ship. 242 

-soundings W. of. 266 

Rochefort port. 256 

-city. 256,257 

Rodiles point. 72 

Roiuanellas, las. 44 

Rosa point. 140 

Rosmeur light. 430 

Rospects, les. 444 

Royale, basse. 468 

Roy an... 230 

Ruiloba point. 92 

S. 

Sabiote river .. 123 

Sablanceaux point. 241 

Sables d’Olonne town. 280 

-port. 274 

-harbor. 279,280 

-passes to. 276-279 

-approaching. 275,276 

-roads. 275 

-lights. 264,265 

Sain as point. 22 

Saint-Cl<5raent point. 263 

Saint-Gildas point. 299 

Saiut-Gilles-sur-Vie light. 289 

Saint-Jean de Luz plateau. 186-189 

-bay. 189,190 

-town. 194 

-lights. 190 

-anchorage. 193 

Saint-Laurent point. 273 

Saint-Marc point. ‘241 

Saint-Martin light (R<S island)... ‘242 

-roads (R6 island). 270 

-port (R6 island). 271 

-point (near the Adour). 195 

Saint-Matthieu point, light.. 444 


Page. 

Saint-Nazaire lights. 306 

-roads. 320 

-town.. 322, 323 

Saint-Nicolas point (Sables 

d’Olonne). 275 

Saint-Nicolas bay (Douarnenez).. 4‘29 

Saint-Philibert river. 359 

Sainte-Barbe point, light. 190,191 

Saja river. 95 

Salto Caballo point. 122 

San Agnstin cape. 41 

San Antoliu beach, river. 77 

San Anton island. 153 

San Antonio point. 80 

San Carlos point. il3 

San Cipriauo bay. 23 

-beach. 25 

-port, river. 26 

-light, directions. 27 

San Clemente reefs. 26 

San Esteban port. 50 

San Ignacio point. 128 

San Juan bay. 19 

San Juan del Canal bay. 99 

San Lorenzo point. 68 

San Martin point. 103 

San Martin de la Arena (Suances) 

inlet. 94 

San Martin de la Arena, direc¬ 
tions. 96 

San Nicolain mount. 149 

-point. 150 

San Nicolas island. 145 

San Pedro bay. 47 

-point. 80 

San Pedro del Mar inlet. 99 

-rock. 99 

San Sebastian cape. 38 

San Sebastian bay. 159 

-port, town. 160 

-lights. 161 

San Telmo point. 152 

San Vicente de la Barquera har¬ 
bor . 86 

-town. 87 

-ligkt, tides. 88 

Santa point.: 13 

Santa Anna (Sainte-Anne) point. 171 

Santa Catalina point. 151 












































































































































528 


INDEX OF NAMES. 


Page. 


Santa Catalina deLequeitio point. 144 

-de Mundaca point. 140 

Santa Clara island. 158 

Santa Clara point. 146 

Santa Clara point. 81 

Santa Gadia point. 38 

Santa Marina island. 105 

Santa Marta port. 9 

Santander inlet. 101 

-city. 103 

-lights. 106 

-directions. 108 

Santoha mount. 112 

-inlet. 113 

-lights. 113 

-town, port. 113 

Santnrce village. 127 

Santurraran point. 149 

Sardinero bay. 101 

Saunionars roads. 251 

Sausaten bay. 146 

Sanzey, basse. 284 

Saiizon town, light. 341 

S6c6s, les (Noirmoutier I.). 295 

Sein, He de. 416 

-light. 416 

-Pont de. 417 

-Razde. 423-427 

-chauss<5e de. 416 

-approaching. 418-423 

Serrantes mount. 127 

Serron bank. 46 

Serropio bank. 76 

Serroux, les. 474 

Seiidre river. 237 

Sevallo (Agnjero) point. 127 

Si^ge, la, rocks. 469 

- passage.. 468 

Sismondi village. 9 

Sizun, cap. 413 

Sobrepuesta point. 13 

Socastro point. 18 

Socoa light, town, port. 191 

Sceurs, passage, (Houat I.). 336, 353 

Soeurs, rock, (W. of Lorient)_ 378 

Somocueva, (Liencres,) point.... 98 

Somonte point. 28 

Somorrostro bay. 126 

Somoslliingo bank. 58 


Page. 

Sor river. 14 

Soulac beacon. 211 

Souris rock. 355 

Stiff, le, light. 478 

-bay. 478 

Suances light. 95 

-islands. 97 

Succiuiobay. 332 

T. 

Taillefer point. 341 

-banks. 342, 344 

Talayero point. 163 

Taliferue point . 407 

Taint point, (Lorient). 368 

Tapia islet, light. 39 

Tas de Pois. 432 

Tazones point, bay. 70 

Teignouse la, light. 334 

-pass. 350,351 

Tendoc le. 465 

Tevennec le, islet. 417 

-light. 418 

Teviec islet. 361 

Tierra Blanca point. 156 

Tina May or. 82 

-del Oeste or Santiuste. 82 

-light. 84 

- Menor. 85 

Tonnay-charente. 257 

Torbas bay. 41 

Torche, la, point. 409 

Torres, cape. 64 

Torriente bank. 92 

Tonlingnet point. 432 

-light. 433 

Tr6pass^s bay. 415 

Tr4vignon point. 380 

-corveii de. 381 

Tridlen island. 473 

Tristan island, light. 429 

Trois Pierres. 369 

Tronsses roads. 252 

Trousyard pass. 417 

Truies bank, (Lorient). 368 

Truie, la, rock (Loire). 305 

Turc, basse. 308 

-rock, light. 308 

Turrulla point. 170 


























































































































u. 


INDEX OF NAMES. 
Page. 


Ugiierrey point. 138 

Urdabiiru mount. 161 

Urgull, (Orgullo,) mount. 158 

Ucola river. 152 

Urumea river. 163 

V. 

Vaca rock. 78 

Valbelle, la. 465 

Vale, port. 14 

Van, point. 415 

Vaunes. 355 

Vares cape. 12 

-bay, anchorages. 13 

Vega, port. 43 

Veudays, beacon. 211 

Vermeuou, basse. 265 

Vert, roclies du. 305 

Verte, ile. 380 

Viaveles, port. 40 

Vidiago point, village. 81 

Vieille, basse (Douarnenez). 428 

Vieilles, anse des, (lie d’Yeu).... 286 

Vieille Noire. 473 

Vieux Chateau bay. 287 

34 N C 


520 


Pago. 

Vigie, basse de la. 291 

Vilaine river. 330,347-349 

-approaching;. 345 

Villano point. 137 

Villariuea point. 31 

Villaviciosa light. 70 

-town. 71 

Ville-ds-Martin light. 306 

Vivero, port. 18 

-town. 19 

-resources, tides, directions.. 21 

-marks. 22 

W. 

Wibbine. 408 

Y. 

Yen, ile d’. 281,282 

-lights. 282 

-approaching. 283 

-Pont d’. 287 

Z. 

Zaraiiz bay, town. 155 

Znmaya inlet, town, light. 152 

Zurriola bay. 163 


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